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THE PATHS TO SUANETIA 197
Skali. We soon found ourselves scrambling in and out of deep water-
channels, creeping under or over prostrate and mouldering trunks.
We saw from above what looked like a smooth glade. Our self-
congratulations were premature. The smooth and flowery surface
was some seven feet above the ground ; we waded or cut through
a dense growth of broad-leaved plants, until a bear's track gave
us a line to the banks of the
river. At this spot, one long
day's march from Gebi, there
is a birch-bark shelter. It is
a pleasant halting-place in fine
weather ;
the eastern glacier of
the Skenis Skali shines above
the leafy solitude ; there are
fish in the river, and chamois,
if you can find them, on tlu^
hills. But in a rainy season
mosquitoes and small stinging
black flies are apt to murder
sleep — at least for those who
are not provided with one of
Mr. Tuckett's ingenious gauze
canopies.
The little pass to the next
valley might easily be made
practicalile
for animals. No-
thino- but a Caucasian horse
could cross it in its natural
condition, and even Caucasian horses have to be relieved of their
loads. It is approached by two gullies, one of them so steep
that I found myself using my hands to climb it. Ovu* Ushkul
horsemen jjerformed wonders here on my second passage. One
was a dark, tattered, stumpy barbarian :
TllK Sl>lIK('E CIK THK SKKNIS SKII.A
he
uttered prayers and
exhortations. Another, a splendid, fair-faced, good-tempered giant,
heaved the struggling animals up the worst places. The third
wore the clothes and had the manners of a Persian gentleman.