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THE PATHS TO ST^ANETIA 195
The region we are about to jienetrate lies a day's journey west
of Gebi and south of Karaul. The frequented track of the old
Pasis Mta, which connects the two places, skirts its eastern bordei".
Dr. Radde was the first traveller to visit the Skenis Skali glens ;
I followed in 1868 from east to west, and in 1887 retraced my
steps in the opposite direction. Our first passage
was made in
very broken weather, with a train of ten Gebi porters. On the
second occasion I succeeded, as Dr. Radde had done, in forcing
horses through the forest. I saw in perfection the wonderful
landscapes, and secured outlines of both sides of the chain, which
settled some moot questions of orography in a way since confirmed
b}^ the Surveyors.'
It is an afternoon's ride from Gebi to the ruined huts at the
head of the Rion Valley. The snowy range only appears at intervals
in the background, but the valley scenery is enchanting. The path
passes among cultivated fields until a bridge — sometimes missing
— transports the traveller to the right bank. Henceforth the way
lies through a glorious wood, whei-e the smooth stems and fresh
foliage of the predominant beeches are mingled with gigantic
birches, tall alders and maples, and noble pines. The last disappear
towards the head of the valley. The undergrowth of azaleas
is of extraordinary density, and the Caucasian rhododendron shows
in places its great heads of cream-coloured blossom, delicately
stained with clear yellow and pink. Bright streams cross the
path; with no other implement than our hands we may capture a
dish of trout. When the ice is meltina: the fish take refutre from
the muddy and chilly violence of the Rion in these tributary
rivulets. Whatever the traveller's destination— whether Karaul,
Ushkul in Suanetia, or Cholur on the upper Skenis Skali, he will
mount by steep zigzags to the great pasture which covers the spurs
of the ridge forming the western limit of the Rion basin. Here
he will meet with the herds, horses and cattle of Tartars from the
north side, resting after their passage of the glaciers. They come
from far— even from the country of the Karatshai, west of Elbruz.
'
The forest has also been traversed by Mr. Phillipps-Wolley, by Mr. Holder's [wrty, and
by Signer V. Sella In 1890.