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190 THE EXPLORATION OE THE CAUCASUS
the traveller is glad of shelter and solitude, and may well prefer
the '
court-house
'
to a climber's tent or a native dwellino-.
The path through the forest to tlie highland basin in whieii
the principal villages of Dadian's Suanetia are situated mounts
through a forest of astonishing magnificence. It was late on an
August afternoon in 1887 that I started to ride up the valley.
Night fell while we were still far from Cholur ; the moon gleamed
THE CANCELLARIA, CHOLUR
for a time through the branches on the foaming waters of tlie
river; then the shadows grew deeper in the forest, and more than
once we missed the path. As the upper valley opened dimly before
raised on
us strange lisfhts shone in everv direction ; o-hostlv figures
high platforms were silhouetted against the flames ; wild cries and
chants and the beating of metal drums rang through the stillness of
the woods. The maize was ri|)e in the fields, and the liears on the
neighbouring liills were only
to be restrained from their ftivourite