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188 THE EXPLORATION OF THE CAUCASUS
a very simple description. Visitors must not, howevei-, trust to his
hospitality or present aid in secui'ing horsemen for Suanetia, for in
the simimer he is apt to be away on an official toui-. On one recent
occasion, a predecessor of the present district officer was found to
be engaged in the more agreeable task of cementing the Russo-
French alliance by escorting in her excursions a Parisian lady,
who paid an extensive series of visits among the Russian officials
of the Caucasus, and subsequently, as I was told, went on to
the Transcaspian. Her bloomer costume created much surprise in
Suanetia, to which she jjenetrated.
At Zageri we are on the frontier between the great mountains and
civilisation. Here wheels and telegraphs and regular posts come to
an end. The Pi'iestav of Suanetia lives a hermit's life, dependent
for his letters on an irregular Cossack, and for his provisions, such
as salt and sugar and tea, to the despatch of special convoys over
the Latpari Pass— a three days' journey.
The village stands on the