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THE PATHS TO SUANETIA 187
in Russian Administration, and its conduct is becoming every
year more and more a subject of criticism among Caucasians
who have travelled outside their own country. Even among the
more intelligent and advanced mountain tribesmen there is a
growing demand for help and encouragement in the development
of the natural resources and the commerce of the countrv. 1 have
heard village chiefs refer with high approval to the works now
being carried out in Egypt, and repeat tales they had heard from
fellow-pilgrims at Mecca of the splendours of Bombay. The llussian
Government has been successful in pacifying the Caucasus. It is
very much to be hoped that the enlightened men to be foinid among
its administrators may now prove equal to the further ta.sk that lies
before them, and that they will not allow their plans to be frustrated
by the apathy of underlings or by the traditions of bureaucrats.
From the north good walkers— I do not mean climbers— can
reach Suanetia without any difficulty. The passes from the Baksan
may form material for a subsequent chapter. But the natural access
to the district is fi-om the south, and tlie road used for all official
and general purposes starts from Kutais. It has been very frequently
M. Levier.'
and fully described by travellers— best of all, perhaps, by
For some fiftv versts the traveller takes advantage of the Mamison
road up the Rion Valley. At the post-station of Alpana he finds
a by-road, which first pierces a picturesque limestone gorge and
then emerges on a broad sunny basin, where vines climb in classical
fashion among the tree-tops and broad maize-fields clothe the hills.
The landscape is still hilly rather than mountainous : of a character
found commonly in the outskirts of the Apennines, more rarely in
tho.se of the Alps. Frequenters of the Italian Alps may be reminded
of the Trentino, of the lower basins of the Sarca about Comano.
Travellers can drive over a low pass to Zageri, the seat of government
of the Leshgum. Their luggage will be conveyed in an arha
or native cart, a basket mounted on two small front wheels and
trailing behind on the ground, drawn by oxen.
Zageri is the residence
of the local Nachalnik, who inhabits a small wooden house of
' See Von Thielniann. Journey in the Caucasus, 1875 ; Telfer, Crimea and Transcaucasia,
1876 ; Levier, A travers le Caucise, 189.5.