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178 THE EXPLOKATIOX UF THE CAUCASUS
of Janga and Katuintau. (^n the left a prodigious slope runs up
as we advance the
8000 feet to the icy comb of Dykhtau ;
mountain-side to the east suddenly breaks open, and a second large
glacier, backed by a serrated snowy range, appears in the gap. This
is the Mishirgi Glacier, hitherto neglected by travellers for its more
important neighbour, l>ut not less remarkable in its scenery. It
fills all the great and deep horseshoe between Koshtantau and
Dykhtau. The Bezingi Glacier, on the other hand, must be pictured
under the figure of a T. Fed by the snows in the trough which lies
parallel to the great chain and beneath its highest peaks, its stream
escapes at right angles through the deep rent or hollow at the
Avestern base of Koshtantau. The junction of the arms of the T is
obviously the view-point to aim for. Thither, accordingly, in 1874,
tramped the first travellers to visit these fastnesses— A. W. Moore,
Craufurd Grove, Horace Walker, and F. Gardiner. There Dent and
Donkin set up their camp in 188G, and climbed Gestola, the first
peak of the Central Group to be trodden by human feet. Later
travellers have put up at a Kosh under Dykhtau, described to them
by the natives as the Missess Kosh. It is a hole under a great
boulder, which every thunderstorm turns into a dripping well. It
has no recommendation over the better situation selected bv
Donkin and Dent except as a starting-point for the northern
ascent to Dykhtau. I trust it may be feasible in the future for
the Alpine Club, in conjunction with the Russian Government
and Scientific Societies, to erect a substantial shelter at this or
some still more suitable point, similar to the club-huts of the
Alps, or to the native hut already existing beside the Karagom
Glacier.
The crest of the chain at the western extremity of the upper
basin of the Bezingi Glacier, between the two Zanner Passes, which
lead to Mujal in Suanetia, is easy of access to any travellers provided
with a rope. The great peaks, on the other hand, without
exception, demand skill, and— still more— experience and sound
judgment, in their climbers. Mishirgitau and Dykhtau
from the
south are both hard and long rock-climbs ; but the crests of the
main chain, Shkara, Janga, Katuintau, Gestola, are to be attained