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148 THE EXPLORATION OF THE CAUCASUS and camp- utensils. Six horses curried the load ; on a seventh rode our temporary attendant, a Vladikavkaz Cossack. On the top of the pots and kettles was perched the melancholy Finkelstein, a Jew, whom we had picked up in Vladikavkaz, and who served us faithfully, and on the whole efficiently, as cook and camp-manager. Great was the talk, loud and long the argument, over the distri- bution of burdens, each owner striving to secure the lightest for his own animal. At last, amid the barking of curs and the grunting THE INIEKI'KETER AND BAGGAGE TRAIN of human beings — the Caucasian gi'unt is a special accomplish- At the moment of departure ment—our Exodus was accomplished. Captain Powell was laid hands on by a native, who, simulating a fine frenzy, gesticulated violently and flourished his broad dagger. His words, being interpreted, proved to be to this effect :— ' I, your it must post-boy, have driven you here ; it is off the ; post-road be reckoned two posts, and I have only the payment for one : if I do not receive double fare I shall be dishonoured, and my family will be covered with perpetual shame. Let me receive what I ask, or I will kill myself on the spot, and my spirit shall
THE VAIJ.KV OF THE riU'KH 149 pursue you through the mountains.' We preferred the sacrifice of a few kopeks to the psychical manifestations with whicli we were threatened, and bloodslied was happily avoided. These sudden outlnu-sts of temper are not unconunon in Ossetia, but as a rule no harm comes of them. < )ur first night in camp was spent under damp mists and drizzle. The near scenery w-as of the dullest. The landscape was of a type not uncommon north of the Caucasian chain in the schist zone between the granite and the limestone. The mountains are no better than monsti'ous downs. There is nothing quite so tame and featureless in the Alps, though the ascent to the Furka Pass from Hospenthal comes near it. But the scale in the Caucasus is larger, and the result more monotonous. We saw nothing from the pass but clouds above, interminable on our track green slopes below. The first noteworthy object was Kamunta, the centre, or township, of this unattractive 10 1). it pastoral region. As seen in M. de Dechy's photogra})h (p. may remind Syrian travellers of the type of village common in that country. It i-epresents one of the simplest orders of human architecture in a stone district. North of the Caucasus the Ossetes and Tartars have alike adopted it for ordinary domestic purposes, where defence was not the primary object. Seen from above, the chief signs of habitation are flat, grass-grown terraces, out of which protrude rude wicker baskets. From one or two of the baskets smoke issues. These are the chimneys ; occasionally a pig or a child tumbles down one, and is fortunate if it does not fall into the cooking-pot. If a cow strays incautiously the results may be more serious. In local nursery songs the ' Little Boy his cows are in the corn,' but on the Blue ' is warned not that ' roofs. Seen from below, a village is represented by a series of low rough walls, like those of olive-gardens in Southern Italy. The houses are half dug out of the ground. Kamunta is not quite of the most primitive type ; many of its houses have four walls, and stand clear of the hillside, while some have even rude wooden balconies. On the hilltop may be noticed a small chapel and some ancient tombs.
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THE VAIJ.KV OF THE riU'KH 149<br />
pursue you through the mountains.' We preferred the sacrifice<br />
of a few kopeks to the psychical<br />
manifestations with whicli we<br />
were threatened, and bloodslied was happily avoided. These<br />
sudden outlnu-sts of temper are not unconunon in Ossetia, but<br />
as a rule no harm comes of them.<br />
< )ur first night in camp was spent under damp<br />
mists and<br />
drizzle. The near scenery w-as of the dullest. The landscape was<br />
of a type not uncommon north of the Caucasian chain in the schist<br />
zone between the granite and the limestone. The mountains are<br />
no better than monsti'ous downs. There is nothing quite so tame<br />
and featureless in the Alps, though the ascent to the Furka Pass<br />
from Hospenthal comes near it. But the scale in the Caucasus is<br />
larger, and the result more monotonous.<br />
We saw nothing from the pass but clouds above, interminable<br />
on our track<br />
green slopes below. The first noteworthy object<br />
was Kamunta, the centre, or township, of this unattractive<br />
10 1). it<br />
pastoral region. As seen in M. de Dechy's photogra})h (p.<br />
may remind Syrian travellers of the type of village common in<br />
that country. It i-epresents one of the simplest orders of human<br />
architecture in a stone district. North of the Caucasus the<br />
Ossetes and Tartars have alike adopted it for ordinary domestic<br />
purposes, where defence was not the primary object. Seen from<br />
above, the chief signs of habitation are flat, grass-grown terraces,<br />
out of which protrude rude wicker baskets. From one or two of<br />
the baskets smoke issues. These are the chimneys ; occasionally<br />
a pig or a child tumbles down one, and is fortunate if it does not<br />
fall into the cooking-pot.<br />
If a cow strays incautiously the results<br />
may be more serious. In local nursery songs the<br />
'<br />
Little Boy<br />
his cows are in the corn,' but on the<br />
Blue '<br />
is warned not that '<br />
roofs. Seen from below, a village is represented by a series of<br />
low rough walls, like those of olive-gardens in Southern Italy.<br />
The houses are half dug out of the ground. Kamunta is not<br />
quite of the most primitive type ; many of its houses have four<br />
walls, and stand clear of the hillside, while some have even rude<br />
wooden balconies. On the hilltop may be noticed a small chapel<br />
and some ancient tombs.