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THE AJ)A1 KliUKU GROUP 139
Dt'cliy, however, had a had time, and it must be remembered
by all Caucasian clinil)ers and critics that the snow and ice
conditions vary in dift'erent seasons far more than in the Alps.
In 1887 and 1889, I found the snows greatly altered, and in
1890 again, on the Laila, Herr Merzbacher's experiences were very
dift'erent from mine of the previous year.^
After a very enjoyable halt we set out, but by keeping
entirely to the left of our ice -fall, we almost completely evaded
its seracs, and soon found ourselves at the spot where the two
cascades unite. The rope could now l)e thrown off, and we wei^e able
to run along the broken glacier and slide swiftly down the snow-
banks beside a last fall, where the ice bent slightly to the north.
Here we came on a meadow and water, a fine site for a bivouac.
But we had more ice and moraine before us. Some of us clunc to
the glacier, others tried the moraine ; I do not know which fared
worse ;
at any rate, the moraine party came in last.
The two who first reached smooth ground were suddenly aware
of a white tent pitched a few hundred yards from the terminal
moraine. We hastily assumed it must be Signor Sella's camp ; visions
of afternoon-tea rose before us. I trust I shall not mention tea too
often. If I do, may it be remembered that tea of necessity takes
the place in a Caucasian journey that '
Bouvier '
occupies
in the
records of mountaineering nearer home. We hurried on, counting
on a cordial reception from our comrade or his Italian followers,
whom we had met at Vladikavkaz. But the tent proved empty ;
its furniture was not European ;
there was no sign of a photographic
outfit. Presently an elderly Ossete came in sight, hurrying up in
the greatest alarm. He obviously looked on us as a party of
unusually dare-de\il rol)bers, on liis property as lost, and on his
own days as probably numbered. His face did not recover its com-
posure so long as we were in sight. Captain Powell ascertained
from him that he was there for his health, undergoing a
'
cure '
' Our pass is seen in the illustration (from a photograph of M. de Diechj'), immediately east
of a rock-tower on the skyline. A more iiracticable passage may possibly be found a few
hundred yards farther west.