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134 THE EXPLORATION OF THE CAUCASUS
encloses Suanetia on the south. The mid-day vapours had dis-
appeared early : it ^Yas a perfect late summer afternoon, and the
I'ays of the sun, which was already sinking towards the west,
transfigured parts of the landscape with a golden glory, heightened
by contrast where the shadows thrown by the dark pikes of
the range south of Gurshevi and the tower of Shoda fell across
the lower slopes. One of the reasons that a want of picturesque
effect is so generally complained of in high mountain views is
that they are rarely seen early or late enough in the day. I
have never been on a peak or pass more than four hours before
or after mid-day without being astonished at the beauty of detail
and colour, of light and shade, added to landscapes that, in the
noonday glare, are apt to be impressive only by reason of their
vastness. Thus, for examjile, the view from the Wetterhorn be-
comes superb when the great peaks of the Oberland fling theii'
shadows towards the spectator who watches from that lonely
pinnacle ; the prospect over Suanetia from the Laila is exquisite
when the first sunbeams touch its corn-fields and towered hamlets.
Over the details of the descent into the Rion Valley I need
not linger. As first-comers generally do, we got into some needless
difficulty, but before nightfall we had gained turf, and, conscious
that Glola might be reached by breakfast-time next morning,
lay down beneath the highest birches, with ice-axes driven in
below us to prevent our rolling down the slope, as heedless as
any Caucasian shepherd of the absence of supper or the showers
that passed over us. We were conscious of having lived a day
which would never fade from our memories.
In the expeditions just described we had gained a general
idea— but only a general idea— of the character of the group.
It was obvious that its chief feature was the gigantic neve of
the Karagom Glacier ; that this was ringed on the east by a
semicircle of lofty peaks, while to the west Burdjula stood com-
paratively isolated. From the Rion basin we had seen two peaks,
the Eiger-like summit overhanging the Mamison, and a double
snow-crest ; we had seen also two great rock-peaks beside the
Karagom what
ice-fall :
lay on the connecting ridge had been