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120 THE EXi'LORATION UF THE CAUCASUS we once found the archives to consist of letters from the Russian Priestav to the Starshina, of which, as the latter was ignorant of any language but a Georgian patois, not a word had been read. The Master of the Rolls at Gebi was somewhat obstinate, and had finally to be ejected by the door, while his sheepskin went through the wnndow. Much impressed by this summaiy eviction, he soon came back to offer to serve as our caterer. The new church, though a poor enough specimen of modern Georgian architecture, gives an air of civilisation to the village. A NEW CHCRCH AT GEBI priest has been appointed, who talks Russian, and ad- dressed me constantly as ' Professor.' An influential native desired me to visit a sparkling iron spring close by, said not to be inferior to the famous Narzan or Giant's Sprmg at Kislo- vodsk, and suggested that I should start a bathing establishment. Here was gratifying evidence of the march of ideas. Let the proprietors of Apollinaris beware. Materially, too, we were excel- lently provided. In place of the interminable bargaining required of old to get a dozen eggs, and the necessity of paying the owner of each hencoop separately in exactly the right number of kopeks, we wei'e able to procure beef and fowls, potatoes and vegetables, flour, sugar and capital wine, at fair prices. Horses were at our disposal when wanted, and I believe we might even have secured porters v^dth less than two days' discussion. Yet there was one luxui-y, as of old unobtainable, one point on which the manners of the men of Gebi were still the same. This population of pedlars have no mean idea of their own merits or of the value of their opinions : their time and other people's they value less. They are, in their own estimation at least, the Athenians of the Caucasus, and there is no new thing
THE MAMISON PASS AND GEBI 121 which they do not make it a duty to investigate and discuss exhaustively ; other duties — they the males, at least— appear to have none. Hardly has the traveller arrived than liis first eftorts to make himself comfortable are watched by an audience of at least a hundred, of whom as many as possible squeeze into the little room, while the rest jostle in the balcony, or gather on any neighbouring roof or wall from which a glimpse of the performance may be obtained. Except perhaps at our Law Courts on a SILVER EIKONS AT GEBI sensational trial, I have never seen such emulation for a good place. The first scene, the unlacing of boots, will be favourably received. Since no Caucasian ever wears anything but leathern sandals stufled with dry grass, it has the merit of entire novelty. Moreover, the counting of the nails in the soles affords a problem that engages and baffles the highest mathematical intellects of the new village school. The use of a sponge or a pocket-handkerchief is a certain success, and seldom fails to di-aw a roar of appi'eciation from the gallery. When the spirits are lighted under a
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THE MAMISON PASS AND GEBI 121<br />
which they do not make it a duty to investigate and discuss<br />
exhaustively ; other duties — they the males, at least—<br />
appear to<br />
have none. Hardly has the traveller arrived than liis first eftorts<br />
to make himself comfortable are watched by an audience of at<br />
least a hundred, of whom as many as possible squeeze into the<br />
little room, while the rest jostle in the balcony, or gather on any<br />
neighbouring roof or wall from which a glimpse of the performance<br />
may be obtained. Except perhaps at our Law Courts on a<br />
SILVER EIKONS AT GEBI<br />
sensational trial, I have never seen such emulation for a good place.<br />
The first scene, the unlacing of boots, will be favourably received.<br />
Since no Caucasian ever wears anything but leathern sandals stufled<br />
with dry grass, it has the merit of entire novelty. Moreover, the<br />
counting of the nails in the soles affords a problem that engages<br />
and baffles the highest mathematical intellects of the new<br />
village school. The use of a sponge or a pocket-handkerchief<br />
is a certain success, and seldom fails to di-aw a roar of appi'eciation<br />
from the gallery. When the spirits are lighted under a
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