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Rescue - Petzl

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MOUNTAINEERING<br />

Crevasse fall: hauling on a rope with knots<br />

24<br />

Contents<br />

© Boris Dufour<br />

Tying knots into the<br />

rope is valuable in<br />

helping to brake a fall<br />

into a crevasse when there<br />

are only two team members<br />

tied in. In case of a fall,<br />

and without a second rope<br />

available, the victim must<br />

be hauled up on a rope tied<br />

with knots, which can not<br />

pass through a rope clamp<br />

at the head of the system.<br />

The method for untying<br />

the knots requires little<br />

additional equipment.<br />

Transferring the load to the rope clamp below<br />

The load must be transferred temporarily onto the rope clamp<br />

below, which is connected to the anchor, in order to slacken<br />

the rope and untie the knot.<br />

1. Once the hauling system<br />

is in place, raising the victim<br />

moves the knots toward the<br />

system.<br />

MICRO MICRO<br />

TRAXION TRAXION<br />

TIBLOC TIBLOC<br />

PARTNER PARTNER<br />

2. Move the TIBLOC-type<br />

rope clamp below the knot<br />

to the other side of the knot.<br />

The TIBLOC is not loaded<br />

and can simply be removed.<br />

MICRO<br />

TRAXION<br />

TIBLOC<br />

Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.

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