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MOUNTAINEERING<br />
Approaching a glacier as a party of two<br />
22<br />
Contents<br />
© Boris Dufour<br />
Falling into a crevasse is one of the major risks when<br />
approaching a glacier. Carrying hauling equipment and<br />
knowing hauling techniques is an essential precaution.<br />
But in the case of a partner falling into a crevasse, the fall<br />
must first be stopped without falling in yourself. With two,<br />
one climber alone will have to be the counter-weight. It is<br />
therefore important to start with all the chances on your<br />
side.<br />
Tie-in distance<br />
The two climbers tie in at each end of the rope. The tie-in<br />
distance is then adjusted with their tied off chest coils. The<br />
greater the probability of falling into a crevasse, the greater<br />
the tie-in distance between the climbers should be. Each<br />
team member must keep enough rope for setting up a hauling<br />
system.<br />
15 m 30 m<br />
Knots for greater friction in soft snow<br />
Tie knots every 2 m along the rope (figure eight, overhand,<br />
butterfly...) The friction of the knots in the snow and over the lip<br />
of the crevasse helps to brake the fall.<br />
2 m<br />
Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.
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