Rescue - Petzl

50 %
58 %
50 % 58 %
71 %
< 8°
100 %
Single direction anchor
The master point of the equalized anchor is fixed.
Advantage: no shock load in case of an anchor failure (hanging on the remaining anchor).
Disadvantage: Poor load distribution in case of lateral tension.
• Anchor with knotted
master point (clove hitch)
15
Contents
50 %
58 %
50 % 58 %
71 %
< 8°
100 %
60°
• Anchor with knotted dynamic rope
for equalization on three points
Consequences of equalization angles
The angle of the equalization affects the load distribution on the anchor points.
60°
50 %
58 %
50 %
90°
71 % 100 %
< 8°
50 % 58 %
71 %
50 %
71 % 100 %
100 %
100 %
and light on 60° the harness, but long enough for most situations. To use in
< 8°
120°
90° 120°
100 % 100 % 100 % 100 %
• Equalized anchor with
the climbing rope (only
when alternating leaders)
71 % 100 %
90° 120°
100 % 100 % 100 %
FIN’ANNEAU and ATTACHE 3D
100 %
100 % 100 % 100 %
• Example of poor load
distribution on single direction
anchor
50 %
58 %
50 % 58 %
71 %
Long slings and a few locking carabiners are essential for building an
anchor. FIN’ANNEAU slings, particularly the 120 cm length, are compact
combination with the 60 cm FIN’ANNEAU. The ATTACHE 3D is light and
compact with a capacity and gate opening big enough for two ropes.
< 8°
100 %
100 %
60°
100 %
58 %
60°
100 %
58 %
Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.