BUYING GUIDE - Fast Ford
BUYING GUIDE - Fast Ford
BUYING GUIDE - Fast Ford
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<strong>BUYING</strong> <strong>GUIDE</strong><br />
ESCORT S2<br />
RS TURBO<br />
Words: Blakey<br />
Building on the success of the Mk3 Mk 3 RS Turbo, the<br />
blown Rallye Sport made a welcome return in<br />
the Mk4 Mk Mk4 4 Escort range.<br />
U<br />
nlike its predecessor, the dampers remained unaltered.<br />
‘Series 2’ RS Turbo had The handling was less responsive<br />
no motorsport agenda than the S1, but there was an<br />
and so was aimed squarely at,<br />
upside with the front end now<br />
and developed for, the hot hatch<br />
less likely to lift when the throttle<br />
buyer. Consequently, the<br />
was buried.<br />
new-generation RS was<br />
The S2’s braking was<br />
arguably softened<br />
FAST sharper though. Via<br />
to be more driver-<br />
FACT vented front discs<br />
friendly and the race-<br />
The launch price of the based on those of<br />
‘basic’ S2 was £10,028,<br />
bred DNA of the S1<br />
which rose to a wallet- the Sierra XR4i and<br />
fell by the wayside<br />
with the deletion of<br />
items like the 4.27:1<br />
busting £13,985 by<br />
the time it was<br />
pensioned<br />
off.<br />
slightly larger rear<br />
drums, the S2 built<br />
massively on the awful<br />
fi nal drive and the front<br />
stopping ability of the<br />
tie-bar arrangement.<br />
S1 RS Turbo. The controversial<br />
Thankfully, the 1596cc<br />
Girling-produced anti-lock<br />
turbocharged motor did remain.<br />
braking system was<br />
However, while it looked much<br />
the same, the CVH received a<br />
also standard.<br />
number of modifi cations, most<br />
MORE CHOICE<br />
notably the Bosch Motorola<br />
Depending if you<br />
management being reworked<br />
had a penchant for<br />
with part-throttle calibrations<br />
Diamond White,<br />
to enhance fuel economy and<br />
colour choice<br />
optimise ignition advance. Other<br />
was improved<br />
changes included a one-piece<br />
over the<br />
inlet manifold, water-cooled<br />
S1 too. S2<br />
bearing for the Garrett turbo,<br />
customers<br />
upgraded intercooler and<br />
were able<br />
re-porting of the cylinder head.<br />
to specify<br />
its subtly<br />
REFINED DRIVE<br />
enhanced<br />
The B5 transmission reappeared<br />
exterior,<br />
but with a higher fi nal drive<br />
that boasted<br />
that made motorway speeds<br />
bonnet vents,<br />
less tiresome. The limited slip<br />
a colour-coded<br />
differential was re-engineered<br />
XR3i rear spoiler<br />
too, losing its snatchy action<br />
and modest arch<br />
by way of tightening the<br />
extensions, in a<br />
manufacturing tolerances<br />
choice of four colours;<br />
and drilling a few holes in the<br />
Mercury Grey, Diamond<br />
viscous coupling plates.<br />
White, Black and Radiant Red.<br />
Revising the diff made the<br />
Inside, there were the<br />
S2 feel less twitchy than its<br />
obligatory Recaros but precious<br />
predecessor and it was further<br />
little else to distance the RS from<br />
refi ned with the fi tment of<br />
its cooking counterparts. Even<br />
XR3i-based suspension. The<br />
the steering wheel was pinched<br />
set-up came with uprated springs<br />
from the 1300 and if you wanted<br />
but the ‘3i’s Fichtel & Sachs<br />
luxuries like a sunroof, central<br />
0160 SUMMER 2008 FAST FORD<br />
locking and electric windows<br />
then you had to splash £572 on<br />
the Custom pack.<br />
While you didn’t get many<br />
creature comforts for your outlay,<br />
you couldn’t argue with the<br />
S2’s performance per pound.<br />
It’s much the same today and<br />
although it might not have the<br />
looks or class of its elder RS<br />
brother, it is certainly better value<br />
and virtually just as fast.<br />
IDENTITY<br />
ID numbers can be found on<br />
the slam panel panel and under a<br />
fl ap of carpet carpet sandwiched<br />
between between the driver’s seat and and<br />
sill. What you want to see, see,<br />
both clearly and perfectly perfectly<br />
aligned, aligned, is the series of of letters<br />
WFOBXXGCABKJ followed by<br />
the chassis number listed on<br />
the V5.<br />
Considering a 90-spec RST?<br />
Make sure you’re getting the<br />
genuine article by looking<br />
for the improved spec. Detail<br />
changes were actually quite a<br />
few, but but signifi signifi cant and easy<br />
to identify ones include the<br />
standard fi tment of a glass<br />
sunroof, sunroof, electric windows<br />
and mirrors, heated front<br />
windscreen, windscreen, tinted glass, glass,<br />
revised revised bumpers with the<br />
front one one no longer longer having<br />
a rubber rubber strip, rear rear spoiler spoiler<br />
with curved over ends, ends, ‘Zolda’<br />
trim with blue and red fl ecks,<br />
intermittent intermittent wiper speed<br />
control, control, extended two-part<br />
centre centre console and second second<br />
courtesy light in the rear rear of<br />
the headlining.<br />
BRAKES<br />
It’s almost mandatory for any affect the effi ciency of the<br />
‘80s fast <strong>Ford</strong> to suffer from rear drums eg the shoes and<br />
warped discs and and the S2 is no wheel cylinders. The cylinders<br />
exception. Despite their<br />
fail sooner or later<br />
adequate 260mm size, size,<br />
and a telltale that<br />
it’s easy to bend the FAST they’re leaking is<br />
factory discs with a<br />
excessive travel of<br />
FACT<br />
bit of of hard use.<br />
SVE’s suspension<br />
the handbrake.<br />
Chronic judder<br />
revisions actually meant<br />
Don’t forget to<br />
through the steering steering the S2 sat 10mm<br />
check the operation<br />
wheel when you hit<br />
the pedal at at speed is<br />
a clear sign that the<br />
higher than the S1.<br />
And that was a<br />
good thing?<br />
of the ABS too. It’s<br />
not the greatest and<br />
will feel harsh as it<br />
discs are warped, but it’s<br />
kicks back through the<br />
not the end of the world<br />
pedal, but a sickly system<br />
as replacements are cheap. is costly to repair, not to mention<br />
Braking components are likely to an MoT fail.<br />
TECH SPEC<br />
ENGINE<br />
Type: CVH<br />
Capacity: 1596cc<br />
Bore/stroke: 79.96x79.52mm<br />
Compression ratio: 8.2:1<br />
Max power:<br />
132bhp @ 5750rpm<br />
Max torque:<br />
134Ib/ft @ 2750rpm<br />
Cylinders:<br />
four, in-line<br />
Cylinder head:<br />
alloy<br />
Installation:<br />
front-mounted,<br />
transverse<br />
Block:<br />
cast iron<br />
Valve gear:<br />
two valves per<br />
cylinder, operated by belt-driven<br />
overhead camshaft<br />
Fuel and ignition:<br />
Garrett<br />
T3 turbocharger with<br />
intercooler, Bosch KE-Jetronic<br />
fuel injection<br />
TRANSMISSION<br />
Type: fwd<br />
Gearbox:<br />
fi ve-speed B5 <strong>Ford</strong><br />
manual with 218 mm clutch and<br />
viscous-coupled LSD<br />
Internal ratios:<br />
1st, 3.15:1; 2nd,<br />
1.91:1; 3rd, 1.27:1; 4th, 0.95:1;<br />
5th, 0.76:1;<br />
Final drive:<br />
3.82:1<br />
SUSPENSION<br />
Front:<br />
MacPherson struts, coil<br />
springs, 24mm anti-roll bar<br />
Rear: torsion beam rear axle,<br />
trailing arms, arms, coil springs,<br />
telescopic dampers, 16mm<br />
anti-roll bar<br />
STEERING<br />
Type: rack-and-pinion<br />
BRAKES<br />
System: vacuum servo-assisted<br />
dual circuit hydraulic with<br />
mechanical anti-lock system<br />
Front: 260mm ventilated discs<br />
Rear: 229mm drums<br />
WHEELS & TYRES<br />
Wheels: six-spoke 6x15in alloys<br />
Tyres:<br />
195/50 VR15 Dunlops or<br />
Goodyears<br />
BODY<br />
Type: pressed steel monocoque<br />
three-door hatchback with<br />
<strong>Ford</strong> RS bodykit incorporating<br />
deep front bumper, bonnet<br />
louvres and rear tailgate spoiler<br />
PERFORMANCE<br />
Max speed: 128mph<br />
0-60mph: 8.2seconds<br />
CLUBS<br />
The <strong>Ford</strong> Escort Owners’ Club<br />
www.feoc-uk.com<br />
The <strong>Ford</strong> RS Owners’ Club<br />
www.rsownersclub.co.uk<br />
FAST FORD SUMMER 2008 0161
<strong>BUYING</strong> <strong>GUIDE</strong><br />
ENGINE<br />
It sounds like a bag of nails<br />
but the turbo’d CVH is tough.<br />
Regular oil and cambelt<br />
changes are key to its<br />
survival and basics basics<br />
like the the distributor<br />
distributor<br />
cap, leads and rotor<br />
arm need to be in<br />
good good nick nick if the RS<br />
is to perform as it<br />
should. Misfi ring<br />
often often points to these<br />
ignition ignition components<br />
components<br />
being at fault, while<br />
another cause cause of rough<br />
running is air leaks. leaks.<br />
A lack of boost can stem<br />
from collapsed boost pipes<br />
and a weak actuator and, if<br />
accompanied accompanied by a load of bangs bangs<br />
on the the overrun, a faulty Throttle<br />
Position Position Sensor.<br />
Owners ‘tweaking’ boost and<br />
adding iffy chips is a recipe for<br />
an an engine rebuild sooner rather<br />
than later. Too Too much boost can<br />
blow the head gasket; usually<br />
signalled by a loss of coolant,<br />
white sludge on the fi ller cap<br />
and rise in running temp.<br />
More boost without<br />
the increase in<br />
fuelling will result<br />
in meltdown. Too<br />
much fuel is bad<br />
too, the mass of<br />
petrol washing<br />
the lubricating<br />
oil away from the<br />
bores, then going onto<br />
damage the seals and<br />
contaminate oil in the sump.<br />
Fuelling and boost can be<br />
sorted by a professional tuner<br />
but if there’s a lot of blue smoke<br />
or rumbling from the engine<br />
then it’s a lost cause, the<br />
damage already being<br />
done and the blue tinge<br />
delivering bad news<br />
that oil is being<br />
burnt in the<br />
combustion<br />
chambers.<br />
FAST<br />
FACT<br />
As well as aiding high-<br />
speed cruising, the<br />
switch to a higher<br />
3.82:1 fi nal drive saw<br />
it return 42.8mpg<br />
at 56mph.<br />
TRANSMISSION<br />
B5 ‘box failure is generally<br />
caused by wear and tear and<br />
hard use. The mainshaft is the<br />
biggest weakness so listen<br />
for rumbling at speed. Expect<br />
a bit of play in the change<br />
but if you can’t select gears<br />
without forcing them, the<br />
linkage is shot. Try to beat<br />
the ‘box through the gears to<br />
see if the synchro’s OK. If it’s<br />
tired expect a crunch when<br />
you shift gears, particularly<br />
between second and third.<br />
As a rule, uprated internals<br />
– usually a sleeve that allows<br />
the fi tment of a bigger<br />
bearing – are required at<br />
anything approaching 200bhp.<br />
The factory clutch is on its<br />
limits at 170bhp.<br />
Because a gearbox change<br />
might have occurred, it’s<br />
worth checking checking that any RS<br />
has received the the correct correct B5<br />
with the the all-important all-important slipper.<br />
Jack up the car, hold one of of<br />
the the wheels wheels and get a friend to<br />
spin the other. If If it spins freely<br />
then the wrong ‘box ‘box is fi tted.<br />
Don’t forget that the the myth<br />
of the diesel diesel gearbox being<br />
stronger is exactly that.<br />
ELECTRICS<br />
Make sure everything works<br />
from indicators to the heated<br />
screen on later cars. What<br />
can cause you grief are<br />
the electrics linked to the<br />
mechanical side of things.<br />
Poor running and even<br />
engine failure can be traced<br />
back to duff electrics and the<br />
underbonnet wiring is a big<br />
culprit. It wears over time and<br />
is cooked by the heat build up,<br />
which ruins its effi ciency and<br />
botches the signals that keep<br />
the RS running right. The fan<br />
activation switch also fails, so<br />
let any car idle for a bit and<br />
ensure it kicks in.<br />
Don’t overlook the wiring<br />
that serves the fuel pump<br />
either. It breaks down over<br />
time and the current needed<br />
to keep it performing up to<br />
scratch tails off. If If it’s left<br />
unattended unattended it’s it’s just just a matter matter<br />
of of time before the the blown CVH<br />
runs too lean and expires in<br />
an oily mess. mess. If you do do buy an<br />
RS, get get this wiring wiring checked<br />
over ASAP. ASAP.<br />
Door card trim sags over<br />
time and it’s rare rare to<br />
fi nd a parcel shelf shelf that that<br />
hasn’t been sacrifi ced<br />
to the 6x9 gods, but<br />
the biggest concern is<br />
condition of of the Recaros.<br />
The driver’s driver’s seat side<br />
bolster wears fi rst, the<br />
underlying foam crumbling<br />
and the fabric sagging and<br />
eventually tearing. Replacements<br />
can be found on the Internet for<br />
surprisingly little but repairing<br />
the fabric can prove costly and<br />
time consuming. Replacement<br />
means holding out for good<br />
second-hand seats but demand<br />
for excellent RST Recaros,<br />
particularly 90-spec, is high. high. It’s<br />
usual for a mint, matching matching pair to<br />
command over 200 quid.<br />
Inspect the headlining for any<br />
sagging and staining around the<br />
sunroof, the latter pointing to<br />
the roof’s seals failing. Feel the<br />
carpets too. Any dampness and,<br />
in the majority of cases, you can<br />
bet that the metal underneath is<br />
rotten as the proverbial pear.<br />
IN N THE ADS<br />
1991, custom, T&T one<br />
year, 200bhp, 200bhp, intercooler,<br />
radiator, Cossie brakes, Koni<br />
suspension, full Samcos, half<br />
leather, £11,000 spent last fi ve<br />
years, 16in OZ Super Ts<br />
Tel 07977 499245, Lanarkshire<br />
£4000 ono<br />
H-reg, 1991, 42,000 genuine miles, miles,<br />
all MoTs, original original body, Magnex<br />
exhaust, Stage 1 chip, Pace cooler,<br />
Samco pipes, underbonnet chrome,<br />
three-spoke RS steering wheel,<br />
Bailey header tank and dump valve<br />
Tel Tel 07522 07522 232117, 232117, Sheffi eld eld<br />
£6000 ovno<br />
0162 SUMMER 2008 FAST FORD<br />
FAST FORD SUMMER 2008<br />
0163<br />
INTERIOR<br />
FAST<br />
FACT<br />
Only 497 S2s were<br />
sold in 1991, while the<br />
model’s popularity<br />
peaked in 1989 with<br />
6965 sold.<br />
INSURANCE<br />
Jeff is a 32-year-old supermarket<br />
manager. When the opportunity<br />
arose to swap his slightly ropey S1<br />
RS Turbo for a minty-looking S2, he<br />
jumped at it. His latest RS, a 1990<br />
car, is valued at £4000 and, aside<br />
from a Cat 1 alarm, is standard.<br />
Assisting the upgraded alarm in<br />
lowering Jeff’s annual insurance<br />
premium is his clean licence,<br />
fi ve years’ No Claims Bonus and<br />
the fact that the Escort is always<br />
garaged at his Evesham home<br />
when it’s not covering 6000 miles<br />
a year. Jeff pays £296.70 to<br />
insure his S2 RS Turbo fully<br />
comprehensive. Quote provided<br />
by Performance Direct.<br />
HOW MUCH?<br />
£1000-£2000<br />
Most are only suitable for breaking<br />
or project material. This sum gets<br />
you an MoT’d runner that has a<br />
fi ghting ghting chance chance of another ticket.<br />
They will will need a great deal of work<br />
to bring them fully up to scratch.<br />
£2000-£3000<br />
Tidy Tidy to good cars that should<br />
be straight and presentable.<br />
presentable.<br />
Expect plenty of MoT MoT and some<br />
worthwhile service history too.<br />
£3000-£5000<br />
Very good to excellent examples,<br />
especially anything that’s<br />
approaching £5K. The more<br />
expensive cars cars will will be arrow<br />
straight, straight, original with a low number<br />
of owners and sensible mileages mileages of<br />
at most 70K.<br />
£5000+<br />
The best cars, which will be in<br />
impeccable condition with full<br />
history and low miles. Anything<br />
well well over £5000 needs to be<br />
something special, such as ‘time<br />
warp’ or concours examples.
BODY<br />
Rust adores the Escort shell<br />
and most notably manifests in<br />
the rear chassis rails, bulkhead,<br />
battery tray, sills, fl oor and inner<br />
wings. All these areas will be<br />
costly to rectify and it’s likely<br />
that rot will also be evident<br />
on the tailgate’s seams, door<br />
bottoms, sunroof and the edge<br />
of the bonnet.<br />
They might be hidden by the<br />
bodykit but don’t forget about<br />
the rear arches either. Get your<br />
hand up there to check for fl aky<br />
metal, as it’s scarily common<br />
for them to be non-existent<br />
when the kit is removed.<br />
Replacement panels can still<br />
be bought new but genuine<br />
bodykit components and<br />
the vulnerable front<br />
driving lamps can<br />
only be sourced<br />
second-hand.<br />
Evidence of past<br />
accident damage<br />
is also likely. Panel<br />
gaps were never<br />
that great from the<br />
factory but should<br />
at least be consistent.<br />
Also look for signs of original<br />
sealant in the engine bay and<br />
FAST<br />
FACT<br />
The clutch on the S2<br />
is 20mm larger than<br />
that fi tted to the<br />
Series 1 at<br />
220mm.<br />
that the boot fl oor<br />
isn’t creased from<br />
a rear ender.<br />
Mismatched paint<br />
and overspray also<br />
point towards body<br />
repairs, although<br />
don’t be too upset if<br />
it is otherwise straight<br />
and tidy as it’s a rare RS<br />
Turbo that has escaped the last<br />
20 years unscathed.<br />
SUSPENSION<br />
In fi ne fettle the S2 RS<br />
Turbo handles well enough.<br />
The ride should be fi rm and<br />
compliant and although it’s<br />
not as responsive as the<br />
S1, it shouldn’t wallow or<br />
feel vague in the corners.<br />
Because of the RS Turbo’s<br />
age though, many will<br />
display such symptoms.<br />
The aforementioned<br />
wallowing, usually coupled<br />
with a crashy ride, stems<br />
from tired springs and<br />
dampers, while a vagueness<br />
from the steering often<br />
accompanied by a<br />
clonking noise points to<br />
knackered bushes.<br />
Replacement aftermarket<br />
suspension is more<br />
than likely too. Look for<br />
good quality kit and at the<br />
very least a matched set<br />
of springs and dampers,<br />
as stiffer springs alone<br />
will knock out standard<br />
dampers in double quick<br />
time. Avoid anything<br />
lowered over 60mm as this<br />
sees the S2 practically on<br />
its bump stops and doesn’t<br />
do the geometry any<br />
favours either. If handling’s<br />
your bag, then you won’t<br />
want a car lowered any<br />
more than 25mm.<br />
<strong>BUYING</strong> ONE<br />
Many of the 22,108 examples<br />
produced during the S2’s four-year<br />
production run have departed to<br />
the great scrapyard in the sky, but<br />
you’ll still fi nd a fair few for sale.<br />
Before you get too excited, the<br />
sad reality is that a lot of the hardy<br />
survivors are a bit shonky, making<br />
sourcing a minter or even a reliable<br />
daily runner a tiresome process.<br />
Better cars are more likely to<br />
turn up through the RSOC or the<br />
classifi eds in enthusiast-read mags<br />
like <strong>Fast</strong> <strong>Ford</strong> and Classic <strong>Ford</strong>.<br />
Free-ads and eBay are generally<br />
best for project cars but decent<br />
cars also turn up in Auto Trader.<br />
Don’t be fooled into thinking that<br />
you’ll fi nd a bargain from a nonspecialised<br />
source though; you<br />
won’t. Values for good cars are on<br />
the climb and while you can still<br />
buy an RS Turbo for not a great deal<br />
of cash, it’s best to remember that<br />
said cars are cheap for a reason.<br />
GO PRIVATE<br />
Apart from the fi nest examples,<br />
dealers don’t want to know about<br />
the turbocharged RS as the model<br />
doesn’t appeal to the normal car<br />
buyer and offering a warranty<br />
would probably bankrupt them.<br />
So, the majority available are for<br />
sale privately. Nothing wrong with<br />
this but you have little comeback<br />
if it drops a piston fi ve minutes<br />
after you leave the vendor, so the<br />
bottom line is to go over any RS<br />
from bumper to bumper.<br />
Later 90-spec models are<br />
more desirable, but it pays to<br />
buy on condition rather than age<br />
or specifi cation. And when we<br />
say “condition” that means body<br />
wise, as putting a rust-ridden<br />
RS properly right can run into<br />
thousands. Unless you’re looking<br />
for a project, spend as much as you<br />
can, as the nicer cars will continue<br />
to command good money. In the<br />
two years since we last looked at<br />
buying the RS, the very best cars<br />
have already risen in value by as<br />
much as £2K.<br />
HPI<br />
Given its popularity with the lightfi<br />
ngered and the thrash ‘n’ crash<br />
brigades, the S2 is ripe for an HPI<br />
check. There are two ways to fi nd<br />
out if your prospective purchase<br />
has been nicked, written-off or is<br />
burdened with outstanding fi nance<br />
– over the phone on 01722 422422<br />
or online at www.hpi.co.uk. The<br />
former costs £42.95, while if you<br />
enter the details yourself at HPI’s<br />
website you will be charged a more<br />
wallet-friendly £39.95.<br />
NEXT<br />
MONTH<br />
FORD PUMA<br />
FAST FORD SUMMER 2008<br />
0165