08.04.2013 Views

BUYING GUIDE - Fast Ford

BUYING GUIDE - Fast Ford

BUYING GUIDE - Fast Ford

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

<strong>BUYING</strong> <strong>GUIDE</strong><br />

ESCORT S2<br />

RS TURBO<br />

Words: Blakey<br />

Building on the success of the Mk3 Mk 3 RS Turbo, the<br />

blown Rallye Sport made a welcome return in<br />

the Mk4 Mk Mk4 4 Escort range.<br />

U<br />

nlike its predecessor, the dampers remained unaltered.<br />

‘Series 2’ RS Turbo had The handling was less responsive<br />

no motorsport agenda than the S1, but there was an<br />

and so was aimed squarely at,<br />

upside with the front end now<br />

and developed for, the hot hatch<br />

less likely to lift when the throttle<br />

buyer. Consequently, the<br />

was buried.<br />

new-generation RS was<br />

The S2’s braking was<br />

arguably softened<br />

FAST sharper though. Via<br />

to be more driver-<br />

FACT vented front discs<br />

friendly and the race-<br />

The launch price of the based on those of<br />

‘basic’ S2 was £10,028,<br />

bred DNA of the S1<br />

which rose to a wallet- the Sierra XR4i and<br />

fell by the wayside<br />

with the deletion of<br />

items like the 4.27:1<br />

busting £13,985 by<br />

the time it was<br />

pensioned<br />

off.<br />

slightly larger rear<br />

drums, the S2 built<br />

massively on the awful<br />

fi nal drive and the front<br />

stopping ability of the<br />

tie-bar arrangement.<br />

S1 RS Turbo. The controversial<br />

Thankfully, the 1596cc<br />

Girling-produced anti-lock<br />

turbocharged motor did remain.<br />

braking system was<br />

However, while it looked much<br />

the same, the CVH received a<br />

also standard.<br />

number of modifi cations, most<br />

MORE CHOICE<br />

notably the Bosch Motorola<br />

Depending if you<br />

management being reworked<br />

had a penchant for<br />

with part-throttle calibrations<br />

Diamond White,<br />

to enhance fuel economy and<br />

colour choice<br />

optimise ignition advance. Other<br />

was improved<br />

changes included a one-piece<br />

over the<br />

inlet manifold, water-cooled<br />

S1 too. S2<br />

bearing for the Garrett turbo,<br />

customers<br />

upgraded intercooler and<br />

were able<br />

re-porting of the cylinder head.<br />

to specify<br />

its subtly<br />

REFINED DRIVE<br />

enhanced<br />

The B5 transmission reappeared<br />

exterior,<br />

but with a higher fi nal drive<br />

that boasted<br />

that made motorway speeds<br />

bonnet vents,<br />

less tiresome. The limited slip<br />

a colour-coded<br />

differential was re-engineered<br />

XR3i rear spoiler<br />

too, losing its snatchy action<br />

and modest arch<br />

by way of tightening the<br />

extensions, in a<br />

manufacturing tolerances<br />

choice of four colours;<br />

and drilling a few holes in the<br />

Mercury Grey, Diamond<br />

viscous coupling plates.<br />

White, Black and Radiant Red.<br />

Revising the diff made the<br />

Inside, there were the<br />

S2 feel less twitchy than its<br />

obligatory Recaros but precious<br />

predecessor and it was further<br />

little else to distance the RS from<br />

refi ned with the fi tment of<br />

its cooking counterparts. Even<br />

XR3i-based suspension. The<br />

the steering wheel was pinched<br />

set-up came with uprated springs<br />

from the 1300 and if you wanted<br />

but the ‘3i’s Fichtel & Sachs<br />

luxuries like a sunroof, central<br />

0160 SUMMER 2008 FAST FORD<br />

locking and electric windows<br />

then you had to splash £572 on<br />

the Custom pack.<br />

While you didn’t get many<br />

creature comforts for your outlay,<br />

you couldn’t argue with the<br />

S2’s performance per pound.<br />

It’s much the same today and<br />

although it might not have the<br />

looks or class of its elder RS<br />

brother, it is certainly better value<br />

and virtually just as fast.<br />

IDENTITY<br />

ID numbers can be found on<br />

the slam panel panel and under a<br />

fl ap of carpet carpet sandwiched<br />

between between the driver’s seat and and<br />

sill. What you want to see, see,<br />

both clearly and perfectly perfectly<br />

aligned, aligned, is the series of of letters<br />

WFOBXXGCABKJ followed by<br />

the chassis number listed on<br />

the V5.<br />

Considering a 90-spec RST?<br />

Make sure you’re getting the<br />

genuine article by looking<br />

for the improved spec. Detail<br />

changes were actually quite a<br />

few, but but signifi signifi cant and easy<br />

to identify ones include the<br />

standard fi tment of a glass<br />

sunroof, sunroof, electric windows<br />

and mirrors, heated front<br />

windscreen, windscreen, tinted glass, glass,<br />

revised revised bumpers with the<br />

front one one no longer longer having<br />

a rubber rubber strip, rear rear spoiler spoiler<br />

with curved over ends, ends, ‘Zolda’<br />

trim with blue and red fl ecks,<br />

intermittent intermittent wiper speed<br />

control, control, extended two-part<br />

centre centre console and second second<br />

courtesy light in the rear rear of<br />

the headlining.<br />

BRAKES<br />

It’s almost mandatory for any affect the effi ciency of the<br />

‘80s fast <strong>Ford</strong> to suffer from rear drums eg the shoes and<br />

warped discs and and the S2 is no wheel cylinders. The cylinders<br />

exception. Despite their<br />

fail sooner or later<br />

adequate 260mm size, size,<br />

and a telltale that<br />

it’s easy to bend the FAST they’re leaking is<br />

factory discs with a<br />

excessive travel of<br />

FACT<br />

bit of of hard use.<br />

SVE’s suspension<br />

the handbrake.<br />

Chronic judder<br />

revisions actually meant<br />

Don’t forget to<br />

through the steering steering the S2 sat 10mm<br />

check the operation<br />

wheel when you hit<br />

the pedal at at speed is<br />

a clear sign that the<br />

higher than the S1.<br />

And that was a<br />

good thing?<br />

of the ABS too. It’s<br />

not the greatest and<br />

will feel harsh as it<br />

discs are warped, but it’s<br />

kicks back through the<br />

not the end of the world<br />

pedal, but a sickly system<br />

as replacements are cheap. is costly to repair, not to mention<br />

Braking components are likely to an MoT fail.<br />

TECH SPEC<br />

ENGINE<br />

Type: CVH<br />

Capacity: 1596cc<br />

Bore/stroke: 79.96x79.52mm<br />

Compression ratio: 8.2:1<br />

Max power:<br />

132bhp @ 5750rpm<br />

Max torque:<br />

134Ib/ft @ 2750rpm<br />

Cylinders:<br />

four, in-line<br />

Cylinder head:<br />

alloy<br />

Installation:<br />

front-mounted,<br />

transverse<br />

Block:<br />

cast iron<br />

Valve gear:<br />

two valves per<br />

cylinder, operated by belt-driven<br />

overhead camshaft<br />

Fuel and ignition:<br />

Garrett<br />

T3 turbocharger with<br />

intercooler, Bosch KE-Jetronic<br />

fuel injection<br />

TRANSMISSION<br />

Type: fwd<br />

Gearbox:<br />

fi ve-speed B5 <strong>Ford</strong><br />

manual with 218 mm clutch and<br />

viscous-coupled LSD<br />

Internal ratios:<br />

1st, 3.15:1; 2nd,<br />

1.91:1; 3rd, 1.27:1; 4th, 0.95:1;<br />

5th, 0.76:1;<br />

Final drive:<br />

3.82:1<br />

SUSPENSION<br />

Front:<br />

MacPherson struts, coil<br />

springs, 24mm anti-roll bar<br />

Rear: torsion beam rear axle,<br />

trailing arms, arms, coil springs,<br />

telescopic dampers, 16mm<br />

anti-roll bar<br />

STEERING<br />

Type: rack-and-pinion<br />

BRAKES<br />

System: vacuum servo-assisted<br />

dual circuit hydraulic with<br />

mechanical anti-lock system<br />

Front: 260mm ventilated discs<br />

Rear: 229mm drums<br />

WHEELS & TYRES<br />

Wheels: six-spoke 6x15in alloys<br />

Tyres:<br />

195/50 VR15 Dunlops or<br />

Goodyears<br />

BODY<br />

Type: pressed steel monocoque<br />

three-door hatchback with<br />

<strong>Ford</strong> RS bodykit incorporating<br />

deep front bumper, bonnet<br />

louvres and rear tailgate spoiler<br />

PERFORMANCE<br />

Max speed: 128mph<br />

0-60mph: 8.2seconds<br />

CLUBS<br />

The <strong>Ford</strong> Escort Owners’ Club<br />

www.feoc-uk.com<br />

The <strong>Ford</strong> RS Owners’ Club<br />

www.rsownersclub.co.uk<br />

FAST FORD SUMMER 2008 0161


<strong>BUYING</strong> <strong>GUIDE</strong><br />

ENGINE<br />

It sounds like a bag of nails<br />

but the turbo’d CVH is tough.<br />

Regular oil and cambelt<br />

changes are key to its<br />

survival and basics basics<br />

like the the distributor<br />

distributor<br />

cap, leads and rotor<br />

arm need to be in<br />

good good nick nick if the RS<br />

is to perform as it<br />

should. Misfi ring<br />

often often points to these<br />

ignition ignition components<br />

components<br />

being at fault, while<br />

another cause cause of rough<br />

running is air leaks. leaks.<br />

A lack of boost can stem<br />

from collapsed boost pipes<br />

and a weak actuator and, if<br />

accompanied accompanied by a load of bangs bangs<br />

on the the overrun, a faulty Throttle<br />

Position Position Sensor.<br />

Owners ‘tweaking’ boost and<br />

adding iffy chips is a recipe for<br />

an an engine rebuild sooner rather<br />

than later. Too Too much boost can<br />

blow the head gasket; usually<br />

signalled by a loss of coolant,<br />

white sludge on the fi ller cap<br />

and rise in running temp.<br />

More boost without<br />

the increase in<br />

fuelling will result<br />

in meltdown. Too<br />

much fuel is bad<br />

too, the mass of<br />

petrol washing<br />

the lubricating<br />

oil away from the<br />

bores, then going onto<br />

damage the seals and<br />

contaminate oil in the sump.<br />

Fuelling and boost can be<br />

sorted by a professional tuner<br />

but if there’s a lot of blue smoke<br />

or rumbling from the engine<br />

then it’s a lost cause, the<br />

damage already being<br />

done and the blue tinge<br />

delivering bad news<br />

that oil is being<br />

burnt in the<br />

combustion<br />

chambers.<br />

FAST<br />

FACT<br />

As well as aiding high-<br />

speed cruising, the<br />

switch to a higher<br />

3.82:1 fi nal drive saw<br />

it return 42.8mpg<br />

at 56mph.<br />

TRANSMISSION<br />

B5 ‘box failure is generally<br />

caused by wear and tear and<br />

hard use. The mainshaft is the<br />

biggest weakness so listen<br />

for rumbling at speed. Expect<br />

a bit of play in the change<br />

but if you can’t select gears<br />

without forcing them, the<br />

linkage is shot. Try to beat<br />

the ‘box through the gears to<br />

see if the synchro’s OK. If it’s<br />

tired expect a crunch when<br />

you shift gears, particularly<br />

between second and third.<br />

As a rule, uprated internals<br />

– usually a sleeve that allows<br />

the fi tment of a bigger<br />

bearing – are required at<br />

anything approaching 200bhp.<br />

The factory clutch is on its<br />

limits at 170bhp.<br />

Because a gearbox change<br />

might have occurred, it’s<br />

worth checking checking that any RS<br />

has received the the correct correct B5<br />

with the the all-important all-important slipper.<br />

Jack up the car, hold one of of<br />

the the wheels wheels and get a friend to<br />

spin the other. If If it spins freely<br />

then the wrong ‘box ‘box is fi tted.<br />

Don’t forget that the the myth<br />

of the diesel diesel gearbox being<br />

stronger is exactly that.<br />

ELECTRICS<br />

Make sure everything works<br />

from indicators to the heated<br />

screen on later cars. What<br />

can cause you grief are<br />

the electrics linked to the<br />

mechanical side of things.<br />

Poor running and even<br />

engine failure can be traced<br />

back to duff electrics and the<br />

underbonnet wiring is a big<br />

culprit. It wears over time and<br />

is cooked by the heat build up,<br />

which ruins its effi ciency and<br />

botches the signals that keep<br />

the RS running right. The fan<br />

activation switch also fails, so<br />

let any car idle for a bit and<br />

ensure it kicks in.<br />

Don’t overlook the wiring<br />

that serves the fuel pump<br />

either. It breaks down over<br />

time and the current needed<br />

to keep it performing up to<br />

scratch tails off. If If it’s left<br />

unattended unattended it’s it’s just just a matter matter<br />

of of time before the the blown CVH<br />

runs too lean and expires in<br />

an oily mess. mess. If you do do buy an<br />

RS, get get this wiring wiring checked<br />

over ASAP. ASAP.<br />

Door card trim sags over<br />

time and it’s rare rare to<br />

fi nd a parcel shelf shelf that that<br />

hasn’t been sacrifi ced<br />

to the 6x9 gods, but<br />

the biggest concern is<br />

condition of of the Recaros.<br />

The driver’s driver’s seat side<br />

bolster wears fi rst, the<br />

underlying foam crumbling<br />

and the fabric sagging and<br />

eventually tearing. Replacements<br />

can be found on the Internet for<br />

surprisingly little but repairing<br />

the fabric can prove costly and<br />

time consuming. Replacement<br />

means holding out for good<br />

second-hand seats but demand<br />

for excellent RST Recaros,<br />

particularly 90-spec, is high. high. It’s<br />

usual for a mint, matching matching pair to<br />

command over 200 quid.<br />

Inspect the headlining for any<br />

sagging and staining around the<br />

sunroof, the latter pointing to<br />

the roof’s seals failing. Feel the<br />

carpets too. Any dampness and,<br />

in the majority of cases, you can<br />

bet that the metal underneath is<br />

rotten as the proverbial pear.<br />

IN N THE ADS<br />

1991, custom, T&T one<br />

year, 200bhp, 200bhp, intercooler,<br />

radiator, Cossie brakes, Koni<br />

suspension, full Samcos, half<br />

leather, £11,000 spent last fi ve<br />

years, 16in OZ Super Ts<br />

Tel 07977 499245, Lanarkshire<br />

£4000 ono<br />

H-reg, 1991, 42,000 genuine miles, miles,<br />

all MoTs, original original body, Magnex<br />

exhaust, Stage 1 chip, Pace cooler,<br />

Samco pipes, underbonnet chrome,<br />

three-spoke RS steering wheel,<br />

Bailey header tank and dump valve<br />

Tel Tel 07522 07522 232117, 232117, Sheffi eld eld<br />

£6000 ovno<br />

0162 SUMMER 2008 FAST FORD<br />

FAST FORD SUMMER 2008<br />

0163<br />

INTERIOR<br />

FAST<br />

FACT<br />

Only 497 S2s were<br />

sold in 1991, while the<br />

model’s popularity<br />

peaked in 1989 with<br />

6965 sold.<br />

INSURANCE<br />

Jeff is a 32-year-old supermarket<br />

manager. When the opportunity<br />

arose to swap his slightly ropey S1<br />

RS Turbo for a minty-looking S2, he<br />

jumped at it. His latest RS, a 1990<br />

car, is valued at £4000 and, aside<br />

from a Cat 1 alarm, is standard.<br />

Assisting the upgraded alarm in<br />

lowering Jeff’s annual insurance<br />

premium is his clean licence,<br />

fi ve years’ No Claims Bonus and<br />

the fact that the Escort is always<br />

garaged at his Evesham home<br />

when it’s not covering 6000 miles<br />

a year. Jeff pays £296.70 to<br />

insure his S2 RS Turbo fully<br />

comprehensive. Quote provided<br />

by Performance Direct.<br />

HOW MUCH?<br />

£1000-£2000<br />

Most are only suitable for breaking<br />

or project material. This sum gets<br />

you an MoT’d runner that has a<br />

fi ghting ghting chance chance of another ticket.<br />

They will will need a great deal of work<br />

to bring them fully up to scratch.<br />

£2000-£3000<br />

Tidy Tidy to good cars that should<br />

be straight and presentable.<br />

presentable.<br />

Expect plenty of MoT MoT and some<br />

worthwhile service history too.<br />

£3000-£5000<br />

Very good to excellent examples,<br />

especially anything that’s<br />

approaching £5K. The more<br />

expensive cars cars will will be arrow<br />

straight, straight, original with a low number<br />

of owners and sensible mileages mileages of<br />

at most 70K.<br />

£5000+<br />

The best cars, which will be in<br />

impeccable condition with full<br />

history and low miles. Anything<br />

well well over £5000 needs to be<br />

something special, such as ‘time<br />

warp’ or concours examples.


BODY<br />

Rust adores the Escort shell<br />

and most notably manifests in<br />

the rear chassis rails, bulkhead,<br />

battery tray, sills, fl oor and inner<br />

wings. All these areas will be<br />

costly to rectify and it’s likely<br />

that rot will also be evident<br />

on the tailgate’s seams, door<br />

bottoms, sunroof and the edge<br />

of the bonnet.<br />

They might be hidden by the<br />

bodykit but don’t forget about<br />

the rear arches either. Get your<br />

hand up there to check for fl aky<br />

metal, as it’s scarily common<br />

for them to be non-existent<br />

when the kit is removed.<br />

Replacement panels can still<br />

be bought new but genuine<br />

bodykit components and<br />

the vulnerable front<br />

driving lamps can<br />

only be sourced<br />

second-hand.<br />

Evidence of past<br />

accident damage<br />

is also likely. Panel<br />

gaps were never<br />

that great from the<br />

factory but should<br />

at least be consistent.<br />

Also look for signs of original<br />

sealant in the engine bay and<br />

FAST<br />

FACT<br />

The clutch on the S2<br />

is 20mm larger than<br />

that fi tted to the<br />

Series 1 at<br />

220mm.<br />

that the boot fl oor<br />

isn’t creased from<br />

a rear ender.<br />

Mismatched paint<br />

and overspray also<br />

point towards body<br />

repairs, although<br />

don’t be too upset if<br />

it is otherwise straight<br />

and tidy as it’s a rare RS<br />

Turbo that has escaped the last<br />

20 years unscathed.<br />

SUSPENSION<br />

In fi ne fettle the S2 RS<br />

Turbo handles well enough.<br />

The ride should be fi rm and<br />

compliant and although it’s<br />

not as responsive as the<br />

S1, it shouldn’t wallow or<br />

feel vague in the corners.<br />

Because of the RS Turbo’s<br />

age though, many will<br />

display such symptoms.<br />

The aforementioned<br />

wallowing, usually coupled<br />

with a crashy ride, stems<br />

from tired springs and<br />

dampers, while a vagueness<br />

from the steering often<br />

accompanied by a<br />

clonking noise points to<br />

knackered bushes.<br />

Replacement aftermarket<br />

suspension is more<br />

than likely too. Look for<br />

good quality kit and at the<br />

very least a matched set<br />

of springs and dampers,<br />

as stiffer springs alone<br />

will knock out standard<br />

dampers in double quick<br />

time. Avoid anything<br />

lowered over 60mm as this<br />

sees the S2 practically on<br />

its bump stops and doesn’t<br />

do the geometry any<br />

favours either. If handling’s<br />

your bag, then you won’t<br />

want a car lowered any<br />

more than 25mm.<br />

<strong>BUYING</strong> ONE<br />

Many of the 22,108 examples<br />

produced during the S2’s four-year<br />

production run have departed to<br />

the great scrapyard in the sky, but<br />

you’ll still fi nd a fair few for sale.<br />

Before you get too excited, the<br />

sad reality is that a lot of the hardy<br />

survivors are a bit shonky, making<br />

sourcing a minter or even a reliable<br />

daily runner a tiresome process.<br />

Better cars are more likely to<br />

turn up through the RSOC or the<br />

classifi eds in enthusiast-read mags<br />

like <strong>Fast</strong> <strong>Ford</strong> and Classic <strong>Ford</strong>.<br />

Free-ads and eBay are generally<br />

best for project cars but decent<br />

cars also turn up in Auto Trader.<br />

Don’t be fooled into thinking that<br />

you’ll fi nd a bargain from a nonspecialised<br />

source though; you<br />

won’t. Values for good cars are on<br />

the climb and while you can still<br />

buy an RS Turbo for not a great deal<br />

of cash, it’s best to remember that<br />

said cars are cheap for a reason.<br />

GO PRIVATE<br />

Apart from the fi nest examples,<br />

dealers don’t want to know about<br />

the turbocharged RS as the model<br />

doesn’t appeal to the normal car<br />

buyer and offering a warranty<br />

would probably bankrupt them.<br />

So, the majority available are for<br />

sale privately. Nothing wrong with<br />

this but you have little comeback<br />

if it drops a piston fi ve minutes<br />

after you leave the vendor, so the<br />

bottom line is to go over any RS<br />

from bumper to bumper.<br />

Later 90-spec models are<br />

more desirable, but it pays to<br />

buy on condition rather than age<br />

or specifi cation. And when we<br />

say “condition” that means body<br />

wise, as putting a rust-ridden<br />

RS properly right can run into<br />

thousands. Unless you’re looking<br />

for a project, spend as much as you<br />

can, as the nicer cars will continue<br />

to command good money. In the<br />

two years since we last looked at<br />

buying the RS, the very best cars<br />

have already risen in value by as<br />

much as £2K.<br />

HPI<br />

Given its popularity with the lightfi<br />

ngered and the thrash ‘n’ crash<br />

brigades, the S2 is ripe for an HPI<br />

check. There are two ways to fi nd<br />

out if your prospective purchase<br />

has been nicked, written-off or is<br />

burdened with outstanding fi nance<br />

– over the phone on 01722 422422<br />

or online at www.hpi.co.uk. The<br />

former costs £42.95, while if you<br />

enter the details yourself at HPI’s<br />

website you will be charged a more<br />

wallet-friendly £39.95.<br />

NEXT<br />

MONTH<br />

FORD PUMA<br />

FAST FORD SUMMER 2008<br />

0165

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!