Japan and the Japanese

Japan and the Japanese Japan and the Japanese

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544 JAPAN. A. D. 14 16CO. a Japanese official, and the low valuation put upon American wart-.*, as estimated in Japanese currency, were additional obstacles. Mr. Harris obtained the confidence and {rood-will of the au- thorities at Siinoda, and succeeded in negotiating a convention, in March 18.~>7, by which American citizens were allowed to reside at Siinoda and Hakodade, and to trade at Nangasaki ; and by which, also, it wa^ hoped that the currency difficulty would be arranged. Mr. Harris had brought with him a letter from the President to the Kmperor. and at length, after much importunity and more than a year's delay, he obtained leave to visit Jedo to deliver it. Jedo is only eighty miles by land from Simoda, yet it took several days to make the journey. Mr. Harris thus describes it in a private letter: " My train numbered some one hundred and fifty persons, composed of guards, norrimon-bearers, cooks, grooms, shoe-bearers, cane- bearers, fanbearers, iMid last, though not least, tt standard-bearer, and a large number of eoolies. I had permitted the Japanese to arrange and drvss my train according to their ideas of propriety, and what they conceived was due to the representative of the 1'resideiit of the United States. My guards, each with two swords in the girdle, and clad in new silk dresses, as they swelled ' and strutted ubuut, apjicarcd to be mightily uplifted in heart,' while they and my bearers and ' grooms appeared to have broken out ' all over their bodies with ' spread eagles,' as the back, breast, and sleeves of their dresses were sprinkled over with the arms of the United States, which were neatly painted on them. I |>crforined the journey partly on hi rsehack, and partly in a norrimon, which is the Japanese name for a palanquin. The .Japan- ese norrirnon will compare with the celebrated iron caires of Cardinal Halne, of France, in which the poor inmate could neither lie down nor stand up. In the norrimon the Japanese kneel and place their feet close together, and then sit on their heels; if they wish to repose themselves they lean forward, and rest the chin on their knees, so that the body nnd limbs form three horizontal folds or piles a position that they assume and keep without annovance. from lonj; practice, and from the great flexibility of their joint*, hut which is almost unattainable by a white man, and is ab- solutely unendurable. "I had n norrimon made for me seven feet Ion?, and in it I put n mat- tress nnd pillows, which made it ns comfortable as the Indian palanquin; but, of all the modes of travelling, the camel, the elephant, and the pulau- quin are the most fati^uin^.

MR. HARRIS'S JOURNEY TO JEDO. 545 " On the morning of Monday, November 23, 1 started for the long-desired goal of my wishes. Four lads, with small bamboo wands, led the way as harbingers, and their voices sounded quite musical as they sang the Japan- ese words for ' clear the way,' ' clear the way/ ' ' kneel down,' kneel down.' Next followed a Japanese officer on horseback ; then came a large lack- ered tablet, bearing my name and titles in immense Chinese characters. The tablet was supported by two huge transparent lanterns, which bore similar inscriptions. (When I halted, the tablet was placed in front of my quarters, and at night the lanterns were lighted and hung up over the gate of the house.) Next came a stout fellow, bearing the ' stars and stripes/ with four guards. I followed, either on horseback or in my norrirnon, and attended by twelve guards. Next came Mr. Heuskin (interpreter), and after him I do not recollect how it was arranged, except that the Vice- Governor brought up the rear. " For the first three days the route was entangled among mountains and deep ravines which compose the peninsula of Idsu. The path (for not be called a road) was narrow, and in many places was formed by cut- it could ting steps in the Fufa rocks, and sometimes it ran over mountains four thousand feet high. On the second day I reached Ugasima, and as I emerged from the gorges of Mount Amagi, I had my Yama/ the ' ' first view of Fusi Matchless Mountain.' The sight was grand beyond description. As viewed from the Temple at Ugasima, the mountain appears to be entirely isolated, and shoots up in a glorious and perfect cone ten thousand feet high! It was covered with snow, and in the bright sunlight it glittered like frosted silver. For the first two nights I was lodged in temples, which had been ^fitted up for me with new bath-rooms, and other appliances to contribute to my comfort. On the evening of the third day I arrived at Missima, a town on the To-ky-do, or great East Road, and from thence to Jedo the road is wide and good. On the great roads of Japan nice buildings are erected for the accommodation of the princes when they travel ; they are called Howjin ; and it was in them that I had my quarters for the remainder of my journey. " My first day's journey on the To-ky-do was over the mountain Hacone, which is some four thousand and five hundred feet high. " The passage of Mount Hacone was not completed until after nightfall ; but I did not regret being belated, as it afforded me the novel sight of my train brilliantly lighted by a large number of huge bamboo torches. As it looked the train twisted and turned among the descents of the mountain, like the tail of a huge fiery dragon. On reaching the plain I was met by the authorities of the city of Odowara, and a whole army of lanterns, of all imaginable sizes and colors, each being decorated with the arms of its owner, and the whole forming an ensemble that was lively and pleasing. I passed Sunday, the 29th of November, at Kawasaki. From my first arrival in Japan, up to the present day, I have always refused to transact any business or to travel on Sunday. I soon got the Japanese to understand my motive, and I am sure it has increased their respect for me.

544 JAPAN. A. D. 14 16CO.<br />

a <strong>Japan</strong>ese official, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> low valuation put upon American<br />

wart-.*, as estimated in <strong>Japan</strong>ese currency, were additional<br />

obstacles.<br />

Mr. Harris obtained <strong>the</strong> confidence <strong>and</strong> {rood-will of <strong>the</strong> au-<br />

thorities at Siinoda, <strong>and</strong> succeeded in negotiating a convention,<br />

in March 18.~>7, by which American citizens were allowed to<br />

reside at Siinoda <strong>and</strong> Hakodade, <strong>and</strong> to trade at Nangasaki ;<br />

<strong>and</strong><br />

by which, also, it wa^ hoped that <strong>the</strong> currency difficulty would<br />

be arranged.<br />

Mr. Harris had brought with him a letter from <strong>the</strong> President<br />

to <strong>the</strong> Kmperor. <strong>and</strong> at length, after much importunity <strong>and</strong><br />

more than a year's delay, he obtained leave to visit Jedo to<br />

deliver it. Jedo is only eighty miles by l<strong>and</strong> from Simoda,<br />

yet it took several days to make <strong>the</strong> journey. Mr. Harris thus<br />

describes it in a private letter:<br />

" My train numbered some one hundred <strong>and</strong> fifty persons, composed of<br />

guards, norrimon-bearers, cooks, grooms, shoe-bearers, cane- bearers, fanbearers,<br />

iMid last, though not least, tt st<strong>and</strong>ard-bearer, <strong>and</strong> a large number<br />

of eoolies. I had permitted <strong>the</strong> <strong>Japan</strong>ese to arrange <strong>and</strong> drvss my train<br />

according to <strong>the</strong>ir ideas of propriety, <strong>and</strong> what <strong>the</strong>y conceived was due to<br />

<strong>the</strong> representative of <strong>the</strong> 1'resideiit of <strong>the</strong> United States. My guards, each<br />

with two swords in <strong>the</strong> girdle, <strong>and</strong> clad in new silk dresses, as <strong>the</strong>y swelled<br />

'<br />

<strong>and</strong> strutted ubuut, apjicarcd to be mightily uplifted in heart,' while <strong>the</strong>y<br />

<strong>and</strong> my bearers <strong>and</strong> '<br />

grooms appeared to have broken out '<br />

all over <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

bodies with '<br />

spread eagles,' as <strong>the</strong> back, breast, <strong>and</strong> sleeves of <strong>the</strong>ir dresses<br />

were sprinkled over with <strong>the</strong> arms of <strong>the</strong> United States, which were neatly<br />

painted on <strong>the</strong>m. I |>crforined <strong>the</strong> journey partly on hi rsehack, <strong>and</strong> partly<br />

in a norrimon, which is <strong>the</strong> <strong>Japan</strong>ese name for a palanquin. The .<strong>Japan</strong>-<br />

ese norrirnon will compare with <strong>the</strong> celebrated iron caires of Cardinal Halne,<br />

of France, in which <strong>the</strong> poor inmate could nei<strong>the</strong>r lie down nor st<strong>and</strong> up.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> norrimon <strong>the</strong> <strong>Japan</strong>ese kneel <strong>and</strong> place <strong>the</strong>ir feet close toge<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>n sit on <strong>the</strong>ir heels; if <strong>the</strong>y wish to repose <strong>the</strong>mselves <strong>the</strong>y lean forward,<br />

<strong>and</strong> rest <strong>the</strong> chin on <strong>the</strong>ir knees, so that <strong>the</strong> body nnd limbs form<br />

three horizontal folds or piles a position that <strong>the</strong>y assume <strong>and</strong> keep<br />

without annovance. from lonj; practice, <strong>and</strong> from <strong>the</strong> great flexibility of<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir joint*, hut which is almost unattainable by a white man, <strong>and</strong> is ab-<br />

solutely unendurable.<br />

"I had n norrimon made for me seven feet Ion?, <strong>and</strong> in it I put n mat-<br />

tress nnd pillows, which made it ns comfortable as <strong>the</strong> Indian palanquin;<br />

but, of all <strong>the</strong> modes of travelling, <strong>the</strong> camel, <strong>the</strong> elephant, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> pulau-<br />

quin are <strong>the</strong> most fati^uin^.

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