Japan and the Japanese
Japan and the Japanese Japan and the Japanese
346 JAPAN. A. D. 1690 1C02. Streets, of which the middle and chief reaches us far as Miako, and is contiguous to the streets of that capital, insomuch that Fusimi might be called the suburbs of Miako, the rather since this last city is not at all enclosed with walls. It was to-day Tsitats with the Japanese, that is, the first day of the month, which they keep as a Sunday or holiday, visiting the temples, walking into the fields, and following all manner of diversions. Accordingly we found this street, along which we rode for full four hours before we got to our inn, crowded with multitudes of the inhabitants of Miako, walking out of the city to take the air, and to visit the neighboring temples. Particularly the women were all on this occasion richly apparelled in variously- colored gowns, wearing a purple-colored silk about the forehead, and large straw hats to defend themselves from the heat of the sun. We likewise met some particular sorts of beggars, comically clad, and some masked in a very ridiculous manner. Not a few walked upon iron stilts others ; carried large pots with green trees upon their heads ; some were singing, some whistling, some fluting, others beat- ing of bells. All along the street we saw multitudes of open shops, jugglers and players diverting the crowd. ' The temples which we had on our right as we went up, built in the ascent of the neighboring green hills, were illuminated with many lamps, and the priests, beating some bells with iron hammers, made such a noise as could be heard at a considerable distance. I took notice of a large, white dog, perhaps made of plaster, which stood upon an altar on our left, in a neatly-adorned chapel or small temple, which was consecrated to the Patron of the dogs. We reached our inn at Miako at six in the evening, and were forthwith carried up one pair of stairs into our apartments, which in some measure, I thought, might be compared to the Westphalian smoking rooms, wherein they smoke their beef and bacon. " We had travelled to-day through a very fruitful country, mostly through rice-fields, wherein we saw great flocks of wild ducks, if they deserve to be so called, being so very tame that no travelling company approaching will fright them away. We took notice also of several large, white herons, some swans, and some few storks, looking for their food in the morassy fields. We like- wise saw the pea.sants ploughing with black oxen, which seemed to be lean, poor bea,sts, but arc said to work well.
RECEPTIONS AT MIAKO. 347 " Feb. 29, early in the morning, we sent the presents for the chief justice and the governors to their palaces, laid, according to the country fashion, upon particular small tables made of fir, and kept for no other use but this. We followed soon after, about ten in the forenoon, in kangos. Their palaces were at the west end of the city, opposite the castle of the Dairi. We were conducted through a court-yard, twenty paces broad, into the hall or fore-room of the house, which is called Ban, or the chief guard, and is the rendezvous of numbers of clerks, inspectors, &c. Hence we were taken, through two other rooms, into a third, where they desired us to sit down. Soon after came in his lordship's steward, an old gentleman who seemed upwards of sixty years of age, clad in a gray or ash-colored honor-gown, who seated himself at about four paces from us, in order to receive, in his master's name, both our compliments and presents, which stood in the same room, laid out in a becoming order. They consisted of a flask of Tent wine, be- sides twenty pieces of silk, woollen and linen stuffs. The steward having very civiily returned us thanks for our presents, boxes with tobacco and pipes and proper tvtensils for smoking were set before us, and a dish of tea was presented to each of us by a servant, at three different times, the steward and the chief gentlemen pressing us to drink. Having staid about a quarter of an hour, we took our leave, and were conducted by the steward himself to the door of their room, and thence by other officers back to the gate. " This first visit being over, we walked thence on foot to the palace of the commanding governor, who was but lately arrived from Jedo. Some sentinels stood upon duty at the gate, and in the ban, or hall, we found very near fifty people, besides some young boys, neatly clad, all sitting in very good order. Through this hall we were conducted into a side apartment, where we were civilly received by the two secretaries, both elderly men, and were treated with tea, sugar, &c. ; receiving, also, repeated assurances that we should be soon admitted into the governor's presence. " Having staid full half an hour in this room, we were conducted into another, where, after a little while, the lattices of two screens being suddenly opene;! just over against us, the governor appeared, sitting at fourteen paces distant. He wore, as usual, a garment of Ceremony over his black dress. He seemed to be about thirty-six
- Page 303 and 304: .BUILDINGS. 293 them, if the wind f
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346 JAPAN. A. D. 1690 1C02.<br />
Streets, of which <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>and</strong> chief reaches us far as Miako, <strong>and</strong> is<br />
contiguous to <strong>the</strong> streets of that capital, insomuch that Fusimi might<br />
be called <strong>the</strong> suburbs of Miako, <strong>the</strong> ra<strong>the</strong>r since this last city is not<br />
at all enclosed with walls. It was to-day Tsitats with <strong>the</strong> <strong>Japan</strong>ese,<br />
that is, <strong>the</strong> first day of <strong>the</strong> month, which <strong>the</strong>y keep as a Sunday or<br />
holiday, visiting <strong>the</strong> temples, walking into <strong>the</strong> fields, <strong>and</strong> following<br />
all manner of diversions. Accordingly we found this street, along<br />
which we rode for full four hours before we got to our inn, crowded<br />
with multitudes of <strong>the</strong> inhabitants of Miako, walking out of <strong>the</strong> city<br />
to take <strong>the</strong> air, <strong>and</strong> to visit <strong>the</strong> neighboring temples. Particularly<br />
<strong>the</strong> women were all on this occasion richly apparelled in variously-<br />
colored gowns, wearing a purple-colored silk about <strong>the</strong> forehead,<br />
<strong>and</strong> large straw hats to defend <strong>the</strong>mselves from <strong>the</strong> heat of <strong>the</strong> sun.<br />
We likewise met some particular sorts of beggars, comically clad,<br />
<strong>and</strong> some masked in a very ridiculous manner. Not a few walked<br />
upon iron stilts o<strong>the</strong>rs ; carried large pots with green trees upon <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
heads ; some were singing, some whistling, some fluting, o<strong>the</strong>rs beat-<br />
ing of bells. All along <strong>the</strong> street we saw multitudes of open shops,<br />
jugglers <strong>and</strong> players diverting <strong>the</strong> crowd.<br />
' The temples which we had on our right as we went up, built in<br />
<strong>the</strong> ascent of <strong>the</strong> neighboring green hills, were illuminated with<br />
many lamps, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> priests, beating some bells with iron hammers,<br />
made such a noise as could be heard at a considerable distance. I<br />
took notice of a large, white dog, perhaps made of plaster, which<br />
stood upon an altar on our left, in a neatly-adorned chapel or small<br />
temple, which was consecrated to <strong>the</strong> Patron of <strong>the</strong> dogs. We<br />
reached our inn at Miako at six in <strong>the</strong> evening, <strong>and</strong> were forthwith<br />
carried up one pair of stairs into our apartments, which in some<br />
measure, I thought, might be compared to <strong>the</strong> Westphalian smoking<br />
rooms, wherein <strong>the</strong>y smoke <strong>the</strong>ir beef <strong>and</strong> bacon.<br />
" We had travelled to-day through<br />
a very fruitful country,<br />
mostly through rice-fields, wherein we saw great<br />
flocks of wild<br />
ducks, if <strong>the</strong>y deserve to be so called, being so very tame that no<br />
travelling company approaching will fright <strong>the</strong>m away. We took<br />
notice also of several large, white herons, some swans, <strong>and</strong> some<br />
few storks, looking for <strong>the</strong>ir food in <strong>the</strong> morassy fields. We like-<br />
wise saw <strong>the</strong> pea.sants ploughing with black oxen, which seemed to<br />
be lean, poor bea,sts, but arc said to work well.