Japan and the Japanese

332 JAPAN. A. D. 1C90 1C92.
laid on. For this reason, also, the candlesticks have a punch or
bodkin at top, which the candles are fixed upon. They burn very
quick, and make a great deal of smoke and smell, the oil or
tallow being made of the berries of bay-trees, camphor-trees, and
some others of the kind. It is somewhat odd and ridiculous to see
the whirling motion of the ascending smoke, followed by the flame,
when the candle is taken off the punch at the top of the candlestick.
Instead of lamps, they make use of small, flat, earthen vessels, filled
with train-oil made of the fat of whales, or of oil made of cotton-
seed. The wick is made of rush, and the abovesaid earthen ves-
sel stands in another filled with water, or in a square lantern, that,
in case the oil should by chance take fire, no damage may there-
upon come to the house.
"The Japanese, in their journeys, sit down to table thrice a day,
besides what they eat between meals. They begin early in the morning
and before break of day, at least before they set out, with a good,
substantial breakfast; then follows dinner at noon, and the day ia
concluded with a plentiful supper at night.
It being forbid to play
at cards, they sit after meals, drinking and singing some songs, to
make one another merry, or else they propose some riddles round,
or play at some other game, and he that cannot explain the riddle,
or loses the game, is obliged to drink a glass.
It is again quite
otherwise with us, for we sit at table and eat our victuals very
quietly. Our cloth is laid, and the dishes dressed after the Euro-
pean manner, but by Japanese cooks. We are presented, besides,
by the landlord, each with a Japanese dish. We drink European
wines and the rice-beer of the country hot. All our diversion is
confined, in the day-time, to the small garden which is behind the
house ; at night to the bath, in case we please to make use of it.
No other pleasure is allowed us, no manner of conversation with the
domestics, male or female, excepting what, through
the connivance
of our inspectors, some of us find means to procure at night in pri-
vate and in their own rooms.
" When everything is ready for us to set out again, the landlord
is called, and our president, in presence of the two interpreters, paya
him the reckoning in gold, laid upon a small salver, lie draws
near, in a creeping posture, kneeling, holding his hands down to th
floor, and when he takes the salver which the money is laid upon,