Japan and the Japanese
Japan and the Japanese Japan and the Japanese
828 JAPAN. A. D. 1C90 1092. princes and their retinues. The roads are swept and cleaned before us, and in cities and villages they are watered to lay the dust. The common people, laborers and idle spectators, who are so very troublesome to travellers upon the great island Nipon, are kept out of the way, and the inhabitants of the houses on either side of the roads and streets see us go by, either sitting in the back part of their houses, or kneeling in the fore part, behind a screen, with great respect and in a profound silence. All the princes and lords, whose dominions we are to pass through, send one of their noblemen to compliment us, as soon as we enter upon their territories; but, as he is not suffered to address us in person, he makes his com- pliment in his master's name to the Bugio, or commander-in-chief of our train, and to the chief interpreter, offering, at the same time, what horses and men we want for us and our baggage. He like- wise orders four footmen to walk by every Dutchman's side, and two gentlemen of some note at his court, who are clad in black silk, with staffs in their hands, to precede tl\p whole train. After this manner they lead us through their master's territories, and, when we come to the limits thereof, the Japanese companions of our voyage arc treated with saki and socntio, and so they take their leave. For our passage over the bays of Omj/ra and Sintalara, the lords of these two places lend us their own pleasure-barges, arid their own watermen, besides that they furnish us with abundance of provisions, without expecting even so much as a small present in return for their civil and courteous behavior ; and yet our thievish interpreters never miss to lay hold of this advantage, putting this article upon our accounts as if we had actually been at the expense ; and they commonly put the money into their own pockets. In our whole journey from Nagasaki to Kokura, everybody we meet with shows us and our train that deference and respect which is due only to the princes arid lords of the country. Private travellers, whether they travel on foot or on horseback, must retire out of the way those who hesitate about it being compelled to it by the officers and, bareheaded, humbly bowing, wait in the next field till our whole retinue is gone by. I took notice of some country people ; who do not only retire out of the way, but turn us their back, as not worthy to behold us the greatest mark of civility a Japanese can possibly show. None, or but few, of these public marks of
INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY. 329 honor and respect are shown us in our journey over the great island Nipon. " As to what concerns our accommodation on the road, the same is with regard to the carriage of us and of our baggage, ma number of horses and men provided for that purpose, the inns, lodgings, eating, and attendance as good for our money as we could possibly desire. But, on the other hand, if we consider the narrow for we compass allowed us, we have too much reason to complain ; are treated in a manner like prisoners, deprived of all liberty, ex- cepting that of looking about the country from our horses, or out of our kangos, which, indeed, it is impossible for them to deny us. As soon as a Dutchman alights from his horse (which is taken very ill, unless urgent necessity obliges him), he that rides before oiir train, and the whole train after him, must stop suddenly, and the Dosiu and two other attendants must come down from their horses to take immediate care of him. Nay, they watch us to that degree that they will not leave us alone, not even for the most necessary occasions. The Bugio, or commander-in-chief of our train, studies day and night, not only the contents of his instructions, but the journals of two or three preceding journeys, in order exactly, and step by step, to follow the actions and behavior of his predecessors. 'T is looked upon as the most convincing proof of his faithfulness and good conduct still to exceed them. Nay, some of these block- heads are so capricious that no accident whatever can oblige them to go to any other inns but those we had been at the year before, even though we should, upon this account, be forced in the worst weather, with the greatest inconveniency, and at the very peril of our lives, to travel till late at night. "We go to the same inns which the princes .and lords of the country resort to, that is, to the very best of every place. The apartments are at that time hung with the colors and arms of the Dutch East India Company, and this in order to notify to the neighborhood who they be that lodge there, as is customary in the country. We always go to the same inns, with this difference only that, upon our return from Jedo, we lie at the place we dined at in going up, by this means equally to divide the trouble, which is much greater at night than at dinner. We always take up our lodging in the back apartment of the house, which is by much the 28*
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- Page 319 and 320: GARDENS. 311 ment. Ordinary people
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INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY. 329<br />
honor <strong>and</strong> respect are shown us in our journey over <strong>the</strong> great isl<strong>and</strong><br />
Nipon.<br />
" As to what concerns our accommodation on <strong>the</strong> road, <strong>the</strong> same<br />
is with regard to <strong>the</strong> carriage of us <strong>and</strong> of our baggage, ma<br />
number of horses <strong>and</strong> men provided for that purpose, <strong>the</strong> inns, lodgings,<br />
eating, <strong>and</strong> attendance as good for our money as we could<br />
possibly desire. But, on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r h<strong>and</strong>, if we consider <strong>the</strong> narrow<br />
for we<br />
compass allowed us, we have too much reason to complain ;<br />
are treated in a manner like prisoners, deprived of all liberty, ex-<br />
cepting that of looking about <strong>the</strong> country from our horses, or out<br />
of our kangos, which, indeed, it is impossible for <strong>the</strong>m to deny us.<br />
As soon as a Dutchman alights from his horse (which is taken very<br />
ill, unless urgent necessity obliges him), he that rides before oiir<br />
train, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> whole train after him, must stop suddenly, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Dosiu <strong>and</strong> two o<strong>the</strong>r attendants must come down from <strong>the</strong>ir horses<br />
to take immediate care of him. Nay, <strong>the</strong>y watch us to that degree<br />
that <strong>the</strong>y will not leave us alone, not even for <strong>the</strong> most necessary<br />
occasions. The Bugio, or comm<strong>and</strong>er-in-chief of our train, studies<br />
day <strong>and</strong> night, not only <strong>the</strong> contents of his instructions, but <strong>the</strong><br />
journals of two or three preceding journeys, in order exactly, <strong>and</strong><br />
step by step, to follow <strong>the</strong> actions <strong>and</strong> behavior of his predecessors.<br />
'T is looked upon as <strong>the</strong> most convincing proof of his faithfulness<br />
<strong>and</strong> good conduct still to exceed <strong>the</strong>m. Nay,<br />
some of <strong>the</strong>se block-<br />
heads are so capricious that no accident whatever can oblige <strong>the</strong>m<br />
to go to any o<strong>the</strong>r inns but those we had been at <strong>the</strong> year before,<br />
even though we should, upon this account, be forced in <strong>the</strong> worst<br />
wea<strong>the</strong>r, with <strong>the</strong> greatest inconveniency, <strong>and</strong> at <strong>the</strong> very peril of<br />
our lives, to travel till late at night.<br />
"We go to <strong>the</strong> same inns which <strong>the</strong> princes .<strong>and</strong> lords of <strong>the</strong><br />
country resort to, that is, to <strong>the</strong> very best of every place. The<br />
apartments are at that time hung with <strong>the</strong> colors <strong>and</strong> arms of <strong>the</strong><br />
Dutch East India Company, <strong>and</strong> this in order to notify to <strong>the</strong><br />
neighborhood who <strong>the</strong>y be that lodge <strong>the</strong>re, as is customary in <strong>the</strong><br />
country. We always go to <strong>the</strong> same inns, with this difference only<br />
that, upon our return from Jedo, we lie at <strong>the</strong> place we dined at in<br />
going up, by this means equally to divide <strong>the</strong> trouble, which is<br />
much greater at night than at dinner. We always take up our<br />
lodging in <strong>the</strong> back apartment of <strong>the</strong> house, which is by much <strong>the</strong><br />
28*