Japan and the Japanese

312 JAPAN. A. D. 1CDO 1C92.
compared to larger inns, being inhabited only by poor people, who
have enough to do to got a livelihood by this trade ; and yet, even
in these, there is always something or other to amuse passengers,
and to draw them in ; sometimes a garden and orchard behind the
house, which is seen from the street, looking through the passage,
and which, by its beautiful flower/, or the agreeable sight of a
stream of clear water, falling down from a neighboring
natural or
artificial hill, or by some other curious ornament of this kind,
tempts people to eome in and repose themselves. At other times,
a large flower-pot stands in the window, filled with flo'vering
branches of trees, disposed in a very curious manner. Sometimes a
handsome, well-looking housemaid, or a
couple of young girls,
well
dressed, stand under the door, and with great civility invite people
to eome in, and to buy something. The eatables, such as cakes, or
whatever it be, are kept before the lire, in an open room, sticking
to skewers of bamboos, so that passengers, as they go along, may
take them and pursue their journey without stopping. The land-
ladies, cooks and maids, as soon as they see anybody coming at a
distance, blow up the fire, to make it look as if the victuals had
been just got ready. Some busy themselves with making the tea,
others prepare sou]), others fill cups with saki, or other liijuors, to
present them to passengers, all the while talking and chattering,
and commending their merchandise with a voice loud enough to he
heard by their next neighbors of the same profession.
" The eatables sold at these cook-shops, besides tea, and some-
times saki, are mrtnsir, a sort of round cakes, uliidi they learned to
make from the Portuguese, as big as common hens' eggs, and filled
within with black -bean flower and sugar; cakes of the jelly of a root
found upon mountains, and cut into round slices, like carrots, and
roasted ; snails, oysters, shell-fish, and other small fish, roasted,
boiled, or pickled ; Chinese la.ra, a thin sort of pap, or paste,
made of fine wheat flour, cut into small, thin, long slices, and baked;
all sorts of plants, roots, and sprigs, which the season affords, washed
and boiled in water with salt ; innumerable other dishes peculiar
to this country, made of seeds, powdered roots, and vegetables,
boiled or baked, dressed in many different ways.
"The common sauce for these and other dishes is a little soy,
as they call it, mixed with saki, or the beer of the country. Saixio