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Appendix 195<br />

a regency for a while, before making definitive decisions." "The shah must<br />

totally or partially step back. " "The Pahlavis should leave <strong>the</strong> country <strong>and</strong><br />

never be heard from again." But always, underlying all <strong>the</strong>se responses, <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is <strong>the</strong> same leitmotif: U At any rate, we want nothing from this regime." I have<br />

advanced very little.<br />

One morning, in a big empty apartment where closed curtains let through<br />

only <strong>the</strong> almost unbearable noise of <strong>the</strong> cars passing by, I met an oppositionist<br />

who was described to me as one of <strong>the</strong> country's astute political minds. He<br />

was wanted by <strong>the</strong> police. He was a very calm, very reserved man. He made<br />

few gestures, but when he opened his h<strong>and</strong>, one could see large scars. He had<br />

already had encounters with <strong>the</strong> police.<br />

- Why do you fight?<br />

- To bring down despotism <strong>and</strong> corruption.<br />

- Despotism first, or corruption?<br />

- Despotism sustains corruption, <strong>and</strong> corruption supports despotism.<br />

- What do you think of <strong>the</strong> idea, often put fo rward by <strong>the</strong> shah's entourage, that<br />

it is necessary to have a strong power in order to modernize a still backward<br />

country, that modernization cannot help but lead to corruption in a country<br />

that lacks a cohesive administration?<br />

- The modernization-despotism-corruption combination is precisely what we<br />

reject.<br />

- In short, that is how you characterize "this regime."<br />

- Exactly.<br />

A small detail that struck me <strong>the</strong> day before when I visited <strong>the</strong> bazaar,<br />

which had just reopened after a strike that had lasted more than eight days,<br />

suddenly came back to me. Incredible sewing machines, high <strong>and</strong> misshapen,<br />

as can be seen in <strong>the</strong> advertisements of nineteenth-century newspapers, were<br />

lined up in <strong>the</strong> stalls. They were adorned with patterns of ivy, climbing plants,<br />

<strong>and</strong> budding flowers, roughly imitating old Persian miniatures. These unfitfor-use<br />

Western objects, under <strong>the</strong> sign of an obsolete Orient, all bore <strong>the</strong><br />

inscription: "Made in South Korea."<br />

I <strong>the</strong>n felt that I had understood that recent events did not signify a shrinking<br />

bad{ in <strong>the</strong> face of modernization by extremely retrograde elements, but<br />

<strong>the</strong> rejection, by a whole culture <strong>and</strong> a whole people, of a modernization that<br />

is itself an archaism.<br />

The shah's misfortune is to have espoused this archaism. His crime is to<br />

have maintained, through a corrupt <strong>and</strong> despotic system, that fragment of <strong>the</strong><br />

past in a present that no longer wants it.

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