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The Arcades Project - Operi

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chief, he said: "Oh that. <strong>The</strong> morning dew, you know. <strong>The</strong> pads inside the ii'ames, see?<br />

111ey stain when they get damp."<br />

My heart stopped beating in my throat and slipped back down to where it belonged.<br />

From here on, the ascent was steeper. Also, we began to be repeatedly in doubt about<br />

which direction to take. To my surprise Benjamin was quite able to understand our little<br />

map, and to help me keep our orientation and stick to the right road.<br />

<strong>The</strong> word "road" became more and more sy:mbolic. <strong>The</strong>re were stretches of a path, but<br />

more often it became a hardly discernible trail among boulders-and then the steep<br />

vineyard which I will never forget.<br />

But first I have to explain what made this route so safe.<br />

Following the initial descent, the path ran parallel to the widely known "official" road<br />

along the crest of dIe mountain chain, which was quite passable. "Our" road-the Route<br />

LiJter and an old, old smugglers' path-ran below and somewhat tucked inside the<br />

overhang of the crest, out of the sight of the French border guards patrolling above. At a<br />

few points the two roads approached each other closely, and there we had to keep silent.<br />

Benjamin walked slowly and with an even measure. At regular intervals-I believe it<br />

was ten minutes-he stopped and rested for about one minute. <strong>The</strong>n he went on, at the<br />

same steady pace. He had calculated and worked this out during the night, he told me:<br />

"With this timing I will be able to make it to the end. I rest at regular intervals-I must<br />

rest bifore I become exhausted. Never spend yourself:1<br />

What a strange man. A crystal-clear mind ; unbending inner strength; yet, a wooly­<br />

headed bungler.<br />

<strong>The</strong> nature of his strength, Walter Benjamin once wrote, is "patience, conquerable by<br />

nothing." 2 Reading tlns years later, I saw him again walking slowly, evenly along the<br />

mountain path, and the contraructions within him lost some of their absurdity.<br />

Mrs. Gurland's son, Jose-he was about fifteen years old-and I took turns carrying the<br />

black bag; it was awfully heavy. But, I recall, we all showed good spirits. <strong>The</strong>re was some<br />

easy, casual conversation, turning mostly around the needs of the moment. But mainly,<br />

we were quiet, watching the road.<br />

To day, when Walter Benjamin is considered one of the century's leading scholars and<br />

critics-today I am sometimes asked: VVhat did he say about the manuscript? Did he<br />

discuss the contents? Did it develop a novel philosophical concept?<br />

Good God, I had my hands full steering my little group uphill; philosophy would have<br />

to wait till the downward side of the mountain was reached. vVhat mattered now was to<br />

save a few people from the Nazis; and here I was with this-dtis-/wmig/Ler Kauz, ce dri5le<br />

de rype-this curious eccentric. Old Benjamin: under no circumstances would he part with<br />

his ballast, that black bag; we would have to drag the monster across the mountains.<br />

Now back to the steep vineyard. <strong>The</strong>re was no path. We climbed between the vines talks,<br />

heavy with the ahnost ripe, dark and sweet Banyuls grapes . I remember it as an almost<br />

vertical incline; but such memories sometimes distort the geometry. Here, for the first and<br />

only time, Benjamin faltered. More precisely, he tried, failed, and then gave fonnal notice<br />

that this climb was beyond his capability. Jose and I took him between us; with his arms<br />

on our shoulders, we dragged him and the bag up the hill. He breathed heavily, yet he<br />

made no complaint, not even a sigh. He only kept squinting in the direction of the black<br />

bag.

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