Genovesato (Genoese area) - Turismo in Provincia di Genova
Genovesato (Genoese area) - Turismo in Provincia di Genova
Genovesato (Genoese area) - Turismo in Provincia di Genova
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The Lion of the Cathedral of San Lorenzo <strong>in</strong> Genoa the multiguides> <strong>Genova</strong><br />
GENOVESATO<br />
Coastl<strong>in</strong>e and H<strong>in</strong>terland<br />
Prov<strong>in</strong>ce of Genoa,<br />
salty sea air, sweet scented woods.<br />
GENOVESATO<br />
Nervi<br />
Bogliasco<br />
Pieve<br />
Sori<br />
Recco<br />
Avegno<br />
Uscio<br />
Ceranesi<br />
Mignanego<br />
Serra Riccò<br />
Sant’Olcese<br />
Campomorone<br />
Busalla<br />
Ronco Scrivia<br />
Isola del Cantone<br />
Savignone<br />
Casella<br />
Montoggio<br />
Davagna<br />
Bargagli<br />
Valbrevenna<br />
Crocefieschi<br />
Vobbia<br />
Torriglia<br />
Propata<br />
Fascia<br />
Rondan<strong>in</strong>a<br />
Montebruno<br />
Fontanigorda<br />
Rovegno<br />
Gorreto<br />
Prov<strong>in</strong>cia <strong>di</strong> <strong>Genova</strong><br />
Assessorato al <strong>Turismo</strong><br />
www.turismo<strong>in</strong>liguria.it
Sori
GENOVESATO<br />
Here, the salty sea air, the myriad scents of woods, parks, gardens, flowers, streams and<br />
lakes, create a perfect blend of nature, history, art, culture, tra<strong>di</strong>tion, folklore and<br />
spirituality. This idyllic <strong>area</strong> so strongly tied to its climate and land, provides an<br />
abundance of seasonal <strong>in</strong>gre<strong>di</strong>ents for the local cul<strong>in</strong>ary tra<strong>di</strong>tions. For sport<strong>in</strong>g<br />
enthusiasts the <strong>area</strong> also offers a wide range of outdoor activities, from water sports to<br />
hik<strong>in</strong>g.The <strong>Genovesato</strong> (or <strong>Genoese</strong> <strong>area</strong>) stretches from the Grande <strong>Genova</strong>, (fromVoltri<br />
to Nervi), to the Para<strong>di</strong>so Gulf (from Bogliasco to Recco), and <strong>in</strong>cludes the <strong>in</strong>land valleys<br />
(Val Bisagno,Val Polcevera,Valle Scrivia andValTrebbia) touch<strong>in</strong>g the borders of<br />
Piedmont, Lombardy and Emilia. Situated right <strong>in</strong> the centre of Liguria, Genoa and its<br />
surround<strong>in</strong>g <strong>area</strong> has always been the heart and <strong>in</strong>tellectual capital of the region.Visitors<br />
walk<strong>in</strong>g through its villas, palaces, castles, fortresses, aqueducts and museums can<br />
breathe <strong>in</strong> its thousand year history, and from the walls of its sanctuaries, abbeys,<br />
churches and oratories resounds the ancestral religious spirit of its population. Every year<br />
people <strong>in</strong>dulge <strong>in</strong> the tra<strong>di</strong>tional religious and pagan festivals and costume parades,<br />
renew<strong>in</strong>g the ancient tra<strong>di</strong>tions which have been handed down from generation to<br />
generation.This is the perfect place for a holiday pa<strong>in</strong>ted with deep sea blue and luscious<br />
green, with added shades of history and culture.
Bogliasco
Boccadasse<br />
><br />
GENOVESATO<br />
EMOTIONS BY THE SEA<br />
The ancient city with an eye<br />
on the sea<br />
This city appears to desperately cl<strong>in</strong>g onto the steep hillsides of the great arc of coast which<br />
stretches for almost 40km. From Pegli to its west and Nervi to its east Genoa’s tall, narrow,<br />
brightly pa<strong>in</strong>ted build<strong>in</strong>gs huddled alongside grand frescoed palaces help evoke the <strong>in</strong>trigu<strong>in</strong>g<br />
atmosphere of Genoa’s golden age as a powerful maritime Republic. Today, Genoa La Superba<br />
has decided to renew its alliance with the sea by restor<strong>in</strong>g and reopen<strong>in</strong>g the Porto Antico<br />
(the city’s historic port) and waterfront. Genoa is also home to the magical underwater world<br />
of the biggest aquarium <strong>in</strong> Europe and has renovated the legendary village of Boccadasse. It<br />
has also worked extensively to restore Nervi to its former splendour of the belle époque,<br />
which for its mild climate has always been hugely popular with Italian and foreign tourists,<br />
however, this can be said of all of the panoramic villages of the Para<strong>di</strong>so Gulf.<br />
Ma se ghe pensu<br />
This is the title of a song which<br />
has become a symbol for the<br />
Ligurian emigrants who<br />
settled <strong>in</strong> Buenos Aires, <strong>in</strong> the<br />
neighbourhood of Boca and<br />
brightly pa<strong>in</strong>ted their<br />
Argent<strong>in</strong>ean houses with left<br />
over pa<strong>in</strong>t used for the ships.<br />
In the street Calle Cam<strong>in</strong>ito<br />
they still bake far<strong>in</strong>ata,<br />
or fa<strong>in</strong>à (flat bread made with<br />
chickpea flour) It’s here that<br />
the supporters of the Boca<br />
juniors meet up, a team which<br />
still today bears the 'xeneize'<br />
logo on its football shirts.<br />
3
4<br />
><br />
GENOVESATO<br />
EMOTIONS BY THE SEA<br />
Genoa “La Superba” <strong>in</strong> the mirror<br />
View of the Historic Port Aquarium<br />
The Porto Antico,The Historic Port, nestled<br />
between the old town with its caruggi (very<br />
narrow historical streets) and overpass, was<br />
ra<strong>di</strong>cally renovated by the famous architect<br />
Renzo Piano <strong>in</strong> 1992 <strong>in</strong> celebration of the 500th<br />
anniversary of the <strong>di</strong>scovery of America. The<br />
massive fortification of Porta Siberia is home to<br />
the Luzzati Museum, de<strong>di</strong>cated to the great<br />
<strong>Genoese</strong> artist. The Cotton Warehouses have<br />
been converted to host a variety of commercial<br />
and recreational venues; <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g multi<br />
au<strong>di</strong>torium c<strong>in</strong>emas, bars, restaurants, a mall,<br />
Città dei Bamb<strong>in</strong>i, a playground and educational<br />
centre for children, as well as the Children's<br />
Library “De Amicis”. The gigantic Bigo, a<br />
panoramic elevator emulat<strong>in</strong>g a ship crane,<br />
offers a breathtak<strong>in</strong>g 40 metre high view of the<br />
Historic Port. Opposite there is the Piazza delle<br />
Feste, (Square of Festivals) a tensile structure<br />
host<strong>in</strong>g a skat<strong>in</strong>g r<strong>in</strong>k which opens <strong>in</strong> the w<strong>in</strong>ter<br />
months. The Museum of the Antarctic "Felice<br />
Ippolito" is an exhibition centre measur<strong>in</strong>g<br />
1,000 square metres and is located <strong>in</strong> the e<strong>di</strong>fice<br />
Palazz<strong>in</strong>a Millo. Here geographical maps, very<br />
sophisticated scientific tools, a submar<strong>in</strong>e robot<br />
for underwater film<strong>in</strong>g and survival equipment<br />
for Antarctic environments are on <strong>di</strong>splay. When<br />
visit<strong>in</strong>g Genoa, tourists must not miss the<br />
Aquarium located on the nearby bridge Ponte<br />
Sp<strong>in</strong>ola. Resembl<strong>in</strong>g a ship about to set sail this<br />
modular structure complete with portholes was<br />
designed by the Baltimore architect Peter<br />
Chermayeff. Through its crystal doors visitors enter<br />
the enchanted world of Capta<strong>in</strong> Nemo: they can go<br />
on a virtual <strong>di</strong>v<strong>in</strong>g tour explor<strong>in</strong>g the great sea<br />
abysses and oceans and listen to the recorded<br />
sounds of the waves and seagulls. Volume levels are<br />
regulated by a computer accord<strong>in</strong>g to the number<br />
of visitors flock<strong>in</strong>g to the aquarium. For land lovers,<br />
there is the Biosphere, a build<strong>in</strong>g of glass and steel<br />
designed by Renzo Piano host<strong>in</strong>g ra<strong>in</strong> forest plants<br />
and exotic butterflies. The ancient arsenals of<br />
Genoa, (also known as La Superba or the “The<br />
Superb”, due to its glorious past) have been<br />
converted <strong>in</strong>to the glitter<strong>in</strong>g crystal and steel Galata<br />
Museum of the Sea. Its four floors and 23 halls are<br />
home to permanent exhibitions and theme<br />
sections, which tell the story of mank<strong>in</strong>d's<br />
adventurous journey through and across time and<br />
sea. The Saletta dell’Arte (Hall of Art) hosts<br />
temporary exhibitions and the evocative Sala della<br />
Tempesta (Hall of the Tempest) on the second floor
is def<strong>in</strong>itely worth a visit. Here you can 'experience'<br />
the extreme storms of the legendary Cape Horn. To<br />
the east, <strong>in</strong> the Albaro quarter, stands the timeless<br />
fish<strong>in</strong>g village of Boccadasse. Tourists can delight <strong>in</strong><br />
the brightly pa<strong>in</strong>ted build<strong>in</strong>gs typical of the <strong>Genoese</strong><br />
scene, the small beach with its gozzi (typical local<br />
fish<strong>in</strong>g boats) and fish<strong>in</strong>g nets and the many local<br />
cats, possible descendants of Ciacola, the cat<br />
celebrated <strong>in</strong> an Italian song by G<strong>in</strong>o Paoli. Here<br />
time seems to have stood still and the ice-cream<br />
parlour with its orig<strong>in</strong>al old 1927 marble shop sign<br />
Latteria Igienica (Hygenic Milk Bar) is evidence of<br />
this. A bit further to the east, amongst noble villas,<br />
tree-l<strong>in</strong>ed roads, lush green parks and hotels dat<strong>in</strong>g<br />
back to the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g of the XX century stands out<br />
the “old style”sea village of Nervi, Genoa's “last<br />
municipality”. Its quay, with its boats and fish<strong>in</strong>g<br />
nets hung out to dry <strong>in</strong> the sun, is surrounded by the<br />
tall coloured houses of the old village. From here to<br />
Capolungo between the railroad and the sea,<br />
stretches the romantic Anita Garibal<strong>di</strong> promenade.<br />
Dotted with ice-cream parlours, coffee-bars and<br />
lidos, along its steep paths cut <strong>in</strong>to the cliff faces<br />
tourists are offered unique and breathtak<strong>in</strong>g views<br />
of Genoa, and the coastl<strong>in</strong>e from the Para<strong>di</strong>so Gulf<br />
to the promontory of Portof<strong>in</strong>o.<br />
Sea events<br />
> Slow Fish. This is a spr<strong>in</strong>gtime event<br />
held every two years at the Fiera <strong>di</strong><br />
<strong>Genova</strong> Fair of Genoa. The event is<br />
organised with Slow Food around<br />
themes of fish<strong>in</strong>g culture and the<br />
safeguard<strong>in</strong>g of mar<strong>in</strong>e resources<br />
(www.slowfish.it).<br />
> The Historic Regatta of the Ancient<br />
Maritime Republics, is held every 4<br />
years, <strong>in</strong> the month of June, at the<br />
Porto Antico. The four “Maritime<br />
Republics” of Amalfi, Genoa, Pisa and<br />
Venice compete <strong>in</strong> the regatta, <strong>in</strong> a re<br />
portrayal of their historical splendour.<br />
The prize is a me<strong>di</strong>eval galley kept for<br />
a year by the w<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g city.<br />
> International Boat Show. The<br />
second week of October, at the Fiera <strong>di</strong><br />
<strong>Genova</strong>. With more that 1,600<br />
exhibitors, 2,200 boats and all the<br />
necessary equipment needed to go<br />
sail<strong>in</strong>g, this is a world lead<strong>in</strong>g boat<br />
show event<br />
(www.salonenautico-onl<strong>in</strong>e.it).<br />
The Fair of Genoa, the Boat Show venue<br />
5
6<br />
><br />
GENOVESATO<br />
EMOTIONS BY THE SEA<br />
Para<strong>di</strong>so Gulf and its deep blue waters<br />
Bogliasco Pieve Ligure<br />
To the east of Genoa, past Nervi, appears<br />
the Para<strong>di</strong>so Gulf. Here, from the sea and<br />
skyl<strong>in</strong>e to the steep hilltops, one is<br />
plunged <strong>in</strong>to a breathtak<strong>in</strong>g sea of blues<br />
and greens. Its villages - Bogliasco, Pieve<br />
Ligure, Sori and Recco - are l<strong>in</strong>ed up along<br />
the w<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g Aurelia Road that runs along<br />
the coastl<strong>in</strong>e, pass<strong>in</strong>g through<br />
extraord<strong>in</strong>arily beautiful views of Camogli<br />
and the promontory of Mount Portof<strong>in</strong>o.<br />
Its mild microclimate means that sunny<br />
days and warm temperatures may be<br />
encountered even <strong>in</strong> the w<strong>in</strong>ter, favour<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the early blossom<strong>in</strong>g of its gardens and<br />
coastal vegetation over hang<strong>in</strong>g the cliffs.<br />
Aromas change, becom<strong>in</strong>g more <strong>in</strong>tense.<br />
The prevail<strong>in</strong>g scents of lemon, orange<br />
blossom, mimosa, pittosporum and<br />
gardenia, especially <strong>in</strong> spr<strong>in</strong>gtime, blend<br />
together with the scents of the thousands<br />
of flowers which brightly colour the parks<br />
of the villas on the sea cliffs.<br />
Bogliasco, on the waves of the Libeccio,<br />
is a qua<strong>in</strong>t seaside village made up of<br />
charm<strong>in</strong>g small beaches <strong>in</strong>terspersed<br />
amongst high rocky shores. From its little<br />
quay flows the Poggio stream, complete<br />
with stone bridge, constructed <strong>in</strong> the<br />
Roman era and rebuilt <strong>in</strong> the Middle Ages.<br />
Here fishermen land with their gozzi<br />
(typical local fish<strong>in</strong>g boats) at the end of a<br />
day's fish<strong>in</strong>g. Surfers and w<strong>in</strong>dsurfers<br />
brave the long, broad waves whipped up<br />
by the Libeccio (the name of the south -<br />
westerly w<strong>in</strong>d).<br />
Pieve Ligure: the Sea Trades. Above the<br />
steep coastl<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong>terspersed by lonely<br />
<strong>in</strong>lets of crystal clear waters, stands Pieve<br />
Alta, an old village, surrounded by<br />
hundred year old olive trees, carob trees,<br />
cypresses and p<strong>in</strong>es. In the hamlet of La<br />
Piccola, near the railway station, the<br />
warehouse that once belonged to the<br />
railroad company is now the headquarters<br />
of Storie <strong>di</strong> Barche, (Boat Stories), a<br />
cultural organization which works to<br />
preserve the memory of the sea trades. It<br />
organizes cultural and educational<br />
activities and keeps a large archive of<br />
documents, books, articles, draw<strong>in</strong>gs, tools<br />
and <strong>in</strong>formation on the arts of the<br />
shipwrights, sail makers and rope makers,
<strong>in</strong> short all practical techniques necessary<br />
for the build<strong>in</strong>g and restoration of typical<br />
Ligurian boats are documented.<br />
Sori and its sunny beach. Set <strong>in</strong> an <strong>in</strong>let of<br />
the Para<strong>di</strong>so Gulf surrounded by steep cliffs<br />
and a background of green hills, Sori’s tall<br />
frescoed houses, brief promenade,<br />
swimm<strong>in</strong>g-pool, pebbled beach, fish<strong>in</strong>g<br />
boats, and excellent seaside facilities make<br />
this a perfect place to spend a sunny day.<br />
Recco, more than just focaccia. Rebuilt<br />
after the bomb<strong>in</strong>gs of the Second World<br />
War, Recco, was awarded the Gold Medal<br />
for Civil Valour, and its historical maritime<br />
features are still <strong>in</strong>tact today.<br />
The completely restored, bustl<strong>in</strong>g seaside<br />
promenade Italia, with its ice-cream<br />
parlours and street cafés, frames the<br />
Olympic pool, small quay and beach with<br />
its lidos. Every year, dur<strong>in</strong>g the second half<br />
of July, the Festa del Mare (Sea Festival) is<br />
held; an event which <strong>in</strong>volves all the local<br />
amateur fish<strong>in</strong>g groups as well as other<br />
local associations, and which organizes,<br />
amongst other activities, a clean up of the<br />
sea floor.<br />
Sea l<strong>in</strong>ks<br />
Cruise ships dock at the art<br />
nouveau Maritime Station. The<br />
boats leave from Ponte Sp<strong>in</strong>ola and<br />
Calata Z<strong>in</strong>gari for excursions to the<br />
Porto Antico (historic port) and oneday<br />
m<strong>in</strong>i cruises to the Para<strong>di</strong>so<br />
Gulf, Tigullio Gulf, C<strong>in</strong>que Terre,<br />
Portovenere, Savona, Alassio,<br />
Varazze and Arenzano<br />
(www.golfopara<strong>di</strong>so.it,<br />
www.traghettiportof<strong>in</strong>o.it,<br />
www.liguriaviamare.it).<br />
In the summer ferries leave the<br />
quay below the Aquarium for the<br />
Whale Sanctuary, tak<strong>in</strong>g their<br />
passengers on whale and dolph<strong>in</strong><br />
spott<strong>in</strong>g excursions<br />
(www.santuariodeicetacei.it).<br />
The ferry (NaveBus) Pegli/Porto<br />
Antico takes less than 30 m<strong>in</strong>utes<br />
(www.amt.genova.it).<br />
7
Genoa, via Garibal<strong>di</strong>
Senarega<br />
><br />
GENOVESATO<br />
ARTISTIC SETTINGS<br />
A world of art; churches,<br />
palaces, villas, and villages<br />
La Superba <strong>di</strong>splays a range of orig<strong>in</strong>al works of f<strong>in</strong>e art: not all famous but nonetheless very<br />
worthy of be<strong>in</strong>g noted. From the Middle ages through to the present day, history has left its<br />
mark on the city. Architectural styles have weaved together over the years: from the<br />
Romanesque to the Gothic style, from Baroque to Rococo, from Art Nouveau to Rationalism. It<br />
is a complex and varied art world, made up of churches, palaces, houses and monuments<br />
<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g also the villages of the Para<strong>di</strong>so Gulf and the valleys beh<strong>in</strong>d Genoa. A world which is<br />
found on the slopes of the Apenn<strong>in</strong>es, set amongst chestnut, larch, oak and fir tree woods.<br />
Ideal vacation spots for the <strong>Genoese</strong> families that used to spend their summer holidays there.<br />
The people of these numerous remote mounta<strong>in</strong> villages nestled on the hillsides amongst<br />
green pastures and enchant<strong>in</strong>g woods have wisely protected them from the ravages of time.<br />
The valleys of Genoa, a<br />
step away from the sea<br />
Time and history, art and<br />
tra<strong>di</strong>tions, nature and ancient<br />
knowledge, all make the <strong>Genoese</strong><br />
<strong>in</strong>land <strong>area</strong> a unique tourist<br />
dest<strong>in</strong>ation. Follow<strong>in</strong>g is a list<br />
of the valleys, matched with<br />
their most spectacular sites:<br />
- Bisagno Valley with Bargagli,<br />
Davagna, Struppa;<br />
- BrevennaValley with Frass<strong>in</strong>ello,<br />
Senarega, Valbrevenna;<br />
- Polcevera Valley with<br />
Campomorone, Ceranesi,<br />
Mignanego, Serra Riccò<br />
Pontedecimo/Bolzaneto;<br />
- Trebbia valley with<br />
Fontanigorda, Gorreto,<br />
Montebruno, Propata,<br />
Rondan<strong>in</strong>a, Rovegno, Torriglia;<br />
- Scrivia Valley with Busalla,<br />
Casella, Crocefieschi, Isola del<br />
Cantone, Montoggio, Ronco<br />
Scrivia, Savignone, Vobbia.<br />
9
GENOVESATO<br />
ARTISTIC SETTINGS<br />
The splendour of Genoa: “La Superba”<br />
Palazzo San Giorgio The Lanterna<br />
10<br />
Its historic centre, which is the largest <strong>in</strong> Europe<br />
and the richest <strong>in</strong> monuments, artworks and<br />
architectural pieces of great historical value, is<br />
now work<strong>in</strong>g to restore all its former splendour.<br />
Wander<strong>in</strong>g through its tangle of narrow, me<strong>di</strong>eval<br />
alleys (caruggi) visitors can 'read' the town's<br />
history 'written' <strong>in</strong> its architectural marvels.<br />
Ae<strong>di</strong>culae, fly<strong>in</strong>g buttresses, lunettes, loggias,<br />
me<strong>di</strong>eval and XV century build<strong>in</strong>gs are common<br />
features of this city. From the museum of<br />
Sant’Agost<strong>in</strong>o, an ex monastic complex featur<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the funerary monument of Margherita <strong>di</strong><br />
Bramante and Santa Maria <strong>di</strong> Castello, a religious<br />
complex <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g a Romanesque church and<br />
convent overlook<strong>in</strong>g the cloister, to the further<br />
down,Via San Lorenzo, with the Cathedral of San<br />
Lorenzo one is captured by the city’s architectural<br />
wealth.The <strong>in</strong>terior of the Cathedral, decorated<br />
with polychromatic marbles and tall columns,<br />
most of them smuggled out from<br />
Constant<strong>in</strong>ople, hosts the ashes of John the<br />
Baptist, brought <strong>in</strong>to the town by the <strong>Genoese</strong><br />
return<strong>in</strong>g from the First Crusade (1098).The<br />
me<strong>di</strong>eval Church of SanMatteo, is situated <strong>in</strong> the<br />
homonymous square, surrounded by noble<br />
palaces and <strong>di</strong>splay<strong>in</strong>g stern facades made up of<br />
longitud<strong>in</strong>al black and white stripes, of white marble and<br />
black slate. On the 13th July 2006, 46 of the 163 Palazzi<br />
dei Rolli (Rolli palaces) were declared part of the Unesco<br />
World Heritage (www.irolli.it).They are Renaissance and<br />
Baroque residences commissioned by the aristocratic<br />
families of the <strong>Genoese</strong> Republic on the Strade Nuove,<br />
opened <strong>in</strong> the XVIth century. On occasion of a state visit,<br />
one of these noble residences would w<strong>in</strong> the honour of<br />
host<strong>in</strong>g the visitors, the name hav<strong>in</strong>g been drawn from<br />
an official list called Rolli conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g the names of all<br />
those registered. Located <strong>in</strong>Via Garibal<strong>di</strong>, the ancient<br />
Strada Aurea, are the marvellous facades of some of<br />
these sumptuous abodes that, <strong>in</strong> the past, seduced<br />
Rubens and the travellers of the GrandTour. In particular<br />
it’s worth po<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g out Tursi Palace, now theTown Hall,<br />
Palazzo Rosso (Red Palace) and Palazzo Bianco (White<br />
Palace), now prestigious art galleries. Beh<strong>in</strong>dVia<br />
Garibal<strong>di</strong>, <strong>in</strong> the square which takes his name stands<br />
Palazzo Pellicceria, a rare example of an XVIIIth century<br />
well preserved noble residence, now host<strong>in</strong>g a museum.<br />
With its façade decorated <strong>in</strong> rococo stuccos, it boasts a<br />
rich collection of pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs by Rubens,Van Dick, Antonello<br />
da Mess<strong>in</strong>a and Magnasco. Fabrizio de Andrè, the<br />
famous late <strong>Genoese</strong> songwriter, was a regular toVia del<br />
Campo, where he met the ma<strong>in</strong> character of his song<br />
Bocca <strong>di</strong> Rosa and the late GianniTassio, <strong>in</strong> whose famous
One of the Rolli San Lorenzo<br />
Palaces<br />
shop at No. 29r the songwriter's Esteve guitar is on<br />
<strong>di</strong>splay. Between Pr<strong>in</strong>cipe Railway Station andVia<br />
Gramsci stands the Commenda of San Giovanni <strong>di</strong><br />
Pré, which was commissioned by the Knights of<br />
Malta <strong>in</strong> 1180 to serve as an “ospitale”(a hospice) for<br />
pilgrims and the poor. Opposite the Maritime Station<br />
stands another jewel of “La Superba”: Palazzo <strong>di</strong><br />
Fassolo, also called Palazzo del Pr<strong>in</strong>cipe (the Palace of<br />
the Pr<strong>in</strong>ce), built <strong>in</strong> 1530 by Admiral Andrea Doria,<br />
leader of the famous battle of Lepanto. Further on is<br />
the Lanterna, a 77-metre-high lighthouse built on a<br />
rock spur 40 metres high, its 117 metres looms over<br />
the sea and its port.The Lanterna has been guid<strong>in</strong>g<br />
vessels <strong>in</strong>to the harbour s<strong>in</strong>ce the XIIth century.<br />
Above Corvetto Square, <strong>in</strong> the park filled with exotic<br />
trees ofVilletta Di Negro is, the Museum of Oriental<br />
Art “Edoardo Chiossone”featur<strong>in</strong>g a Japanese<br />
section.Visitors to the exhibition will be astounded<br />
to see its 1,000 priceless exhibits apparently float<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>in</strong> th<strong>in</strong> air, an optical effect created as <strong>in</strong>com<strong>in</strong>g light<br />
filters through the large glass panels and slid<strong>in</strong>g<br />
screens of the museum.The Cemetery of Staglieno,<br />
<strong>in</strong> BisagnoValley, is an open-air museum with<br />
majestic funerary monuments, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the graves<br />
of great historical figures such as: Giuseppe Mazz<strong>in</strong>i,<br />
Ferruccio Parri and Fabrizio De André.<br />
The legend of the<br />
Holy Grail<br />
Accord<strong>in</strong>g to the legend, the Sacred<br />
Goblet or the mythical Holy Grail was<br />
sculpted out of a large emerald which<br />
dropped from Lucifer's forehead when<br />
he fell from God's Grace. It is kept <strong>in</strong><br />
the Museo del Tesoro (Museum of<br />
Treasures) <strong>in</strong> the Cathedral of San<br />
Lorenzo. The legend narrates that the<br />
goblet was donated by the Queen of<br />
Saba to Solomon, and was used by<br />
Jesus dur<strong>in</strong>g the Rite of the Last<br />
Supper. The same chalice was used by<br />
Joseph of Arimathea dur<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
crucifixion of Christ to conta<strong>in</strong> the<br />
sacred fluid bled from his side.<br />
Brought <strong>in</strong> to Genoa by Guglielmo<br />
Embriaco as a trophy of the Crusades,<br />
<strong>in</strong> the XIIth century, it was later stolen<br />
by the Napoleonic troops <strong>in</strong> 1806.<br />
Genoa retrieved the chalice <strong>in</strong> pieces,<br />
ten years later.<br />
11
GENOVESATO<br />
ARTISTIC SETTINGS<br />
Para<strong>di</strong>so Gulf, the spiritual garden<br />
Pieve Ligure, San Michele Arcangelo Bell Mak<strong>in</strong>g Clock Tower Museum<br />
12<br />
In Bogliasco, the Parish Church is de<strong>di</strong>cated to the<br />
Nativity of Maria Santissima. The XVIIIth century<br />
build<strong>in</strong>g has an elliptical floor plan and features a<br />
1767 arabesque mosaic (risseu) pav<strong>in</strong>g, made up<br />
of black and white and pebbles. The picturesque<br />
village of Pieve Ligure situated on a hillside 4km<br />
from the Aurelia road, resembles an Italian<br />
nativity scene (presepio), and the Parish Church of<br />
San Michele can be noted for its Baroque style<br />
façade and multicoloured marble altars. Three<br />
processional crosses attributed to the Antonio<br />
Maria Maragliano school, each weigh<strong>in</strong>g 129 kilos<br />
are stored <strong>in</strong> the Oratory of Sant’Antonio Abate<br />
and <strong>in</strong> the presbytery it’s possible to admire a<br />
polyptych by Francesco Sacchi (1520). For<br />
centuries the Church of Santa Margherita <strong>in</strong> the<br />
centre of Sori, has been a temple of worship and<br />
votive offer<strong>in</strong>gs, its XVIIIth century brightly<br />
pa<strong>in</strong>ted façade features concave and cusp<br />
mould<strong>in</strong>gs.Visitors ventur<strong>in</strong>g up the hills towards<br />
the hamlet of Fulle will pass through rosemary<br />
and heather shrubs, p<strong>in</strong>e forests, olive groves,<br />
orchards, broad bean cultivations and gardens.<br />
The old mill is <strong>in</strong> runn<strong>in</strong>g order and a handful of<br />
adjacent houses form the t<strong>in</strong>y village of Sant’<br />
Apoll<strong>in</strong>are. On a small grassy <strong>area</strong> over hang<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the sea is the old Parish Church. On the stone facade<br />
there is a semicircular lunette, and the apse features a<br />
series of lancet arches, mak<strong>in</strong>g it a precious jewel of<br />
rustic architecture. The Sanctuary of the Madonna del<br />
Suffragio <strong>in</strong> Recco with its XVIIIth century stuccoed<br />
walls depicts images of theVirg<strong>in</strong> Mary <strong>in</strong> true<br />
Baroque style. From this little Ligurian town tourists<br />
ventur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>land can climb up to Avegno, famous for<br />
its small foundries which have been produc<strong>in</strong>g Church<br />
bells of all shapes and sizes s<strong>in</strong>ce 1594. In the Church of<br />
Santa Margherita, located <strong>in</strong> the nearby hamlet of<br />
Testana, visitors can admire a wooden relief of the<br />
Crucifixion which dates back to the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g of the<br />
XVI century. Work of a sculptor from Brussels, the true<br />
Flemish style is reflected <strong>in</strong> its realistic and grotesque<br />
characters. In Uscio, the Parish of Sant’Ambrogio, XIth<br />
and XIIth century, is a f<strong>in</strong>e example of Romanesque<br />
Lombard architecture. In 1824, the Treb<strong>in</strong>o family<br />
started up their dynasty of master clockmakers. The art<br />
was learnt and brought back from Germany, and is still<br />
today a thriv<strong>in</strong>g bus<strong>in</strong>ess. An account of their complete<br />
history can be found <strong>in</strong> the ClockTower Museum. In<br />
1906 Carlo Arnal<strong>di</strong>, a chemist and hygienist, founded<br />
the Colonia della Salute Arnal<strong>di</strong>, the first Italian centre<br />
of alternative me<strong>di</strong>c<strong>in</strong>e and phytotherapy, the ma<strong>in</strong><br />
product be<strong>in</strong>g a secret detoxify<strong>in</strong>g potion.
The Casella tra<strong>in</strong><br />
Casella: the super panoramic tra<strong>in</strong>. A qua<strong>in</strong>t little<br />
1920's tra<strong>in</strong> takes passengers on a brief but<br />
breathtak<strong>in</strong>g 24 km run from Genoa to Casella,<br />
through rollercoaster turns, viaducts, and<br />
extraord<strong>in</strong>arily beautiful views. The Railroad of the<br />
three valleys, is so called because it passes through<br />
the Bisagno, Polcevera and Scrivia vallies, blend<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />
with the Apenn<strong>in</strong>e landscape. The small station<br />
near Piazza Man<strong>in</strong> is situated under the Walls of San<br />
Bartolomeo, while below stands the Mackenzie<br />
Castle (1896-1906) built by G<strong>in</strong>o Coppedé. The tra<strong>in</strong><br />
makes several stops. At the station of Sardorella,<br />
nestled amongst chestnut trees, visitors can sit at<br />
small tables under the pergola and admire the<br />
signal cab<strong>in</strong> furnished <strong>in</strong> the orig<strong>in</strong>al rustic-railroad<br />
style. Next stop Sant’Olcese, a must if you want to<br />
try out the excellent local salami. The track then<br />
w<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>gly ascends through an almost alp<strong>in</strong>e<br />
landscape. The buffet car, with its wood <strong>in</strong>terior and<br />
sh<strong>in</strong>y brass fitt<strong>in</strong>gs can be hired for wedd<strong>in</strong>gs and<br />
parties (www.ferroviagenovacasella.it). After a brief<br />
descent along the Cort<strong>in</strong>o stream Casella appears.<br />
In its centre Palazzo Fieschi; residence of the noble<br />
Fieschi of Casella from the XIIIth century until 1797.<br />
Interest<strong>in</strong>g features are the tower and frescoes of<br />
the family coat of arms.<br />
Para<strong>di</strong>so Gulf<br />
Feasts and Fairs...<br />
> Bogliasco. On the third Sunday of<br />
each month an antique market is held<br />
<strong>in</strong> the square <strong>in</strong> front of the Parish<br />
Church.<br />
> Pieve Ligure. The Mimosa Festival,<br />
featur<strong>in</strong>g carnival floats and brass<br />
band concerts is held on the second<br />
Sunday of February.<br />
> Sori. S<strong>in</strong>ce 1987 the Sori Jazz<br />
Festival of the Two Gulfs has been<br />
held <strong>in</strong> July: there are concerts also <strong>in</strong><br />
Pieve, Recco, Camogli, Portof<strong>in</strong>o and<br />
Santa Margherita.<br />
> Recco. Fancy dress parades are<br />
organized for the carnival week. The<br />
Festival of the focaccia is held at the<br />
end of May. The Celebration of Nostra<br />
Signora del Suffragio takes place over<br />
two days, from the 6th to the 8th<br />
September, with Casacce<br />
(Brotherhood) processions, fire<br />
firework <strong>di</strong>splays, and gastronomic<br />
and focaccia stalls.<br />
13
GENOVESATO<br />
ARTISTIC SETTINGS<br />
Polcevera Valley and Bisagno Valley<br />
La Saliera Museum of Palaeontology Museum of Puppets<br />
14<br />
Polcevera Valley: country culture and epic<br />
battles. Polcevera valley is one of the ma<strong>in</strong><br />
thoroughfares l<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g Genoa with Piedmont and<br />
the PoValley. Crossed by the Polcevera stream, it<br />
l<strong>in</strong>ks the <strong>Genoese</strong> Western Region to The Scrivia<br />
Valley. The first place tourists come across is the<br />
little village of Rivarolo. In 1983, the Museum of<br />
History and Rural Peasant Culture, (housed <strong>in</strong> a<br />
noble villa of XVIIIth-XIXth centuries), was<br />
<strong>in</strong>augurated: it describes aspects of past Ligurian<br />
settlements; the old peasant houses, their family<br />
life, tra<strong>di</strong>tional crafts, and the cultivation cycles of<br />
chestnut orchards, cereal crops, v<strong>in</strong>eyards and<br />
olive groves, found all over the PolceveraValley.<br />
Pass through Bolzaneto and Pontedecimo, and<br />
you get to Campomorone. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to some<br />
historians its name comes from the lush<br />
chestnut forests that covered the surround<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>area</strong>, giv<strong>in</strong>g the prefix 'Campi', the Italian word<br />
for fields, whilst the suffix, 'marrone' derives<br />
from the word for chestnut. Other scholars claim<br />
it comes from the Lat<strong>in</strong> words Campo Marcion,<br />
referr<strong>in</strong>g to the Campimarzi where young<br />
Romans used to tra<strong>in</strong>. Palazzo Balbi (1590), now<br />
the Town Hall, hosts two cult museums. The<br />
Museum of Puppets <strong>di</strong>splays a number of<br />
wooden and papier mache puppets with pa<strong>in</strong>ted<br />
glass eyes. A demonstration that this form of<br />
theatre was very popular <strong>in</strong> Genoa and <strong>in</strong> the small<br />
villages dur<strong>in</strong>g the second half of the XIXth century.<br />
The Museum of Palaeontology and M<strong>in</strong>eralogy<br />
gives an account of the earth's geological evolution<br />
as well as the <strong>area</strong>'s m<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g history: the green<br />
Pietralavezzara marble which was first quarried <strong>in</strong><br />
the XVIth century; was exported all over Europe<br />
and used to decorate the Royal Palace of Berl<strong>in</strong>,<br />
Palazzo Rosso as well as the Cathedral of Genoa. La<br />
Saliera is also worthy of <strong>in</strong>spection; the D'Amico<br />
family, to whom the Republic of Genoa had<br />
granted license to supply salt to the Duchy of Milan<br />
and to the centres of the PoValley, built the two<br />
storey quadrangular build<strong>in</strong>g, complete with<br />
courtyard and tower, <strong>in</strong> the XVIIth century. It was<br />
made up of warehouses, an <strong>in</strong>n for the traders and<br />
carriers and a large stable. Mignanego is to be<br />
found a few kilometres further on, with its<br />
Sanctuary of Nostra Signora dellaVittoria, erected<br />
<strong>in</strong> 1625, after the <strong>Genoese</strong> troops were victorious <strong>in</strong><br />
the battle of the Pertuso Pass aga<strong>in</strong>st the sol<strong>di</strong>ers of<br />
Carlo Emanuele I <strong>di</strong> Savoia. In order to prevent<br />
Austrian troops from tak<strong>in</strong>g cover <strong>in</strong> the build<strong>in</strong>g, it<br />
was destroyed <strong>in</strong> 1747, to be rebuilt <strong>in</strong> 1751.
Madonna della Guar<strong>di</strong>a<br />
Val Bisagno: ancient pievi (parishes). The Bisagno<br />
stream flows through the valley of the same name.<br />
The qua<strong>in</strong>t Bisagno valley is charm<strong>in</strong>gly dotted with<br />
small villages, drystone walls, woods and pleasant<br />
landscapes. From Genoa it is possible to climb<br />
eastwards to Bargagli, a village built around the<br />
Church of Santa Maria Assunta (Xth century) and<br />
renovated <strong>in</strong> the XVIIth century. The Church of<br />
Sant’Ambrogio <strong>in</strong> the hamlet of Traso features a<br />
nativity Scene, all <strong>in</strong> slate with models of the cottages<br />
of past times.There is another stone nativity scene to<br />
be found <strong>in</strong> the woods around the church situated<br />
between Vignanego and Terrusso. In the<br />
surround<strong>in</strong>gs of Davagna tourists can see the orig<strong>in</strong>al<br />
barns with thatched roofs, nowadays quite rare <strong>in</strong> the<br />
valley. In Calvari it’s possible to visit the Church of<br />
Sant’Andrea (XIV century) with its f<strong>in</strong>e risseu. In the<br />
past Calvari was a crossroads of the chestnut wood<br />
transport route; which went down the Bisagno River<br />
towards Genoa.This wood was used <strong>in</strong> ship build<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
The Church of San Giovanni Battista <strong>in</strong> Marsiglia<br />
(1213) keeps a shr<strong>in</strong>e with the relics of San Celest<strong>in</strong>o<br />
and the processional Cross which was confiscated <strong>in</strong><br />
1798, and restored to the population on payment of<br />
ransom. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to old records, the Church of San<br />
Colombano <strong>in</strong> Moranego dates back to 1206.<br />
In devotion to Mary<br />
On the 29th August, 1490, on a peak<br />
of Mount Figogna, overlook<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Livellato, a few kilometres from<br />
Ceranesi, The Holy Virg<strong>in</strong> appeared to<br />
the shepherd, Benedetto Pareto, as he<br />
was watch<strong>in</strong>g his sheep, and asked<br />
him to build a chapel. The follow<strong>in</strong>g<br />
day the shepherd was badly <strong>in</strong>jured<br />
fall<strong>in</strong>g from a fig tree. He was<br />
miraculously healed by The Madonna,<br />
and imme<strong>di</strong>ately began build<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
chapel. In 1528, the humble chapel<br />
was replaced by the present Santuario<br />
della Madonna della Guar<strong>di</strong>a<br />
(Sanctuary of the Madonna who<br />
guards over us), a neo renaissance<br />
church, built on a Lat<strong>in</strong> cross<br />
bluepr<strong>in</strong>t. Its 40m high dome is<br />
decorated with frescoes that depict<br />
the miraculous apparition.<br />
There is also a hospice where pilgrims<br />
can lodge, and a gallery of ex-votos,<br />
focal po<strong>in</strong>t of a village culture where<br />
religious devotion and superstition are<br />
<strong>in</strong>extricably <strong>in</strong>tertw<strong>in</strong>ed. In the past,<br />
on the surround<strong>in</strong>g hillsides were the<br />
Perdoni. They were lookout po<strong>in</strong>ts<br />
from which you could observe the<br />
sanctuary and recite the Hail Mary.<br />
On many of these lookout po<strong>in</strong>ts<br />
small chapels have been erected.<br />
(www.santuarioguar<strong>di</strong>a.it).<br />
15
GENOVESATO<br />
ARTISTIC SETTINGS<br />
Scrivia Valley and Trebbia Valley<br />
Castello della pietra a Vobbia Santuario delle Tre Fontane<br />
16<br />
ScriviaValley: amongst villas and noble e<strong>di</strong>fices.<br />
Border<strong>in</strong>g with the Scrivia River and the Antola Park,<br />
the Scrivia valley embraces two castles, remnants of<br />
the past glories of the two powerful, often feud<strong>in</strong>g<br />
noble families: the Sp<strong>in</strong>ola and the Fieschi.There are<br />
also f<strong>in</strong> de siècle art nouveau build<strong>in</strong>gs, such as Villa<br />
Borz<strong>in</strong>o at Busalla (1936).The Parish Church of San<br />
Giorgio Martire boasts valuable pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs. In the<br />
nearby Borgo Fornari, there is the Villa Davidson, of<br />
G<strong>in</strong>o Coppedé , surrounded by an immense park.<br />
The most magnificent bridge of the valley, built <strong>in</strong><br />
the fifteenth century, is to be found a short <strong>di</strong>stance<br />
from the San Mart<strong>in</strong>o Parish Church (1641) of Ronco<br />
Scrivia. Bastia is a village named after the<br />
conglomerate fortification that rises up opposite the<br />
Sanctuary of the Madonna della Bastia. Legend has it<br />
that, <strong>in</strong> the early 1600's, the statue of the HolyVirg<strong>in</strong>,<br />
now to be admired <strong>in</strong> the tympanum of the<br />
sanctuary's facade, was first <strong>di</strong>scovered <strong>in</strong> a crevice.<br />
The village of Isola del Cantone is to be found<br />
amongst wooded hills. Its name comes from the<br />
union of two hamlets: Isola, which comprises the<br />
city centre on the left of the Scrivia River, and<br />
Cantone, on its right bank, dom<strong>in</strong>ated by two<br />
castles; former Sp<strong>in</strong>ola family hold<strong>in</strong>gs. At<br />
Pietrabissara we f<strong>in</strong>d still another Sp<strong>in</strong>ola residence.<br />
In 1648 Marquis Luciano commissioned the build<strong>in</strong>g of<br />
Palazzo Sp<strong>in</strong>ola, replac<strong>in</strong>g the former castle, the ru<strong>in</strong>s of<br />
which tower above the local dwell<strong>in</strong>gs. VobbiaValley opens<br />
up to the east of Isola del Cantone. Just past a treacherous<br />
gully the Stone Castle (XIIIth century) rises up aga<strong>in</strong>st the<br />
skyl<strong>in</strong>e, wedged <strong>in</strong> between two spurs. After Vobbia, you<br />
can descend down to Crocefieschi, a stronghold of the<br />
Fieschi family, whose dom<strong>in</strong>ion over the <strong>area</strong> began <strong>in</strong><br />
1253.Their tw<strong>in</strong> build<strong>in</strong>gs are to be found <strong>in</strong> Piazza IV<br />
Novembre. At Savignone the typical carruggi lead to the<br />
square that two historical e<strong>di</strong>fices look onto; they are: the<br />
baroque San Pietro Church (1691) and the Palazzo dei Fieschi<br />
(XVIth cent.), converted <strong>in</strong>to a high class hotel <strong>in</strong> 1856. A<br />
history of the alp<strong>in</strong>e troops is to be found <strong>in</strong> the National<br />
Museum of the Alp<strong>in</strong>e Sol<strong>di</strong>ers, whilst the archaeological<br />
section of the Museum of the ScriviaValley recounts the<br />
history of the <strong>area</strong>. On pass<strong>in</strong>g Casella, term<strong>in</strong>us of the<br />
Genoa/Casella railway (see the box, pag. 17), one arrives at<br />
Montoggio, the ru<strong>in</strong>s of the Fieschi Castle and the Parish<br />
Church of San Giovanni Decollato are rendered even more<br />
valuable by the Domenico Fiasella and Orazio De Ferrari<br />
pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs found <strong>in</strong>side the church. A little further on, <strong>in</strong> the<br />
<strong>di</strong>rection of Creto, <strong>in</strong> the Sanctuary of theTre Fontane<br />
(XVIIIth cent.), there is the Museum of votive offer<strong>in</strong>gs. InTre<br />
Fontane, there is the Museum of the old Inn, located <strong>in</strong> the<br />
Ros<strong>in</strong>Trattoria, which specialises <strong>in</strong> local gastronomic
Partisan Museum<br />
history. TrebbiaValley, Caproni's poems and partisan<br />
missions. When you leaveTorriglia follow<strong>in</strong>g the state<br />
road that goes east along theTrebbiaValley, you can<br />
stop over <strong>in</strong> Montebruno.The three arch bridge<br />
constructed by the Doria family l<strong>in</strong>ks the centre with the<br />
Sanctuary of Nostra Signora <strong>di</strong> Montebruno (1486),<br />
where a wooden statue of the HolyVirg<strong>in</strong> is kept.The<br />
annexed August<strong>in</strong>ian convent hosts the Museum of<br />
Peasant Culture which exhibits the tools, <strong>in</strong>ventions and<br />
experience used to work on the land. In the cemetery of<br />
Loco is the tomb of the poet Giorgio Caproni, who lived<br />
and taught <strong>in</strong> the primary school for many years.<br />
Northwards tak<strong>in</strong>g a small detour you reach Rondan<strong>in</strong>a,<br />
the smallest council <strong>di</strong>strict of Liguria.The Church of San<br />
Nicola was built <strong>in</strong> the XIIIth century, on the rema<strong>in</strong>s of a<br />
Roman build<strong>in</strong>g. One can admire the beauty of nature<br />
by visit<strong>in</strong>g the Museum of Flora and Fauna, situated <strong>in</strong><br />
the Monte Antola Park. On the first floor there is the<br />
small Rifugio Rondan<strong>in</strong>a. Propata is to be found<br />
amongst the beech forests, its, Partisan Museum,<br />
conta<strong>in</strong>s memorabilia of Brigata Jori, a former partisan<br />
of the <strong>area</strong>. After Rovegno, with its Parish Church of San<br />
Giovanni Evangelista decorated <strong>in</strong> stucco, one comes<br />
across Gorreto, a border town, and gateway to the<br />
Piacent<strong>in</strong>o.The Centurione Palace (XVIIth century) is well<br />
preserved, <strong>di</strong>splay<strong>in</strong>g black and white striped walls.<br />
Brevenna Valley<br />
between the Middle Ages<br />
and the Baroque Era<br />
Between the watershed of Mount Antola<br />
and the Scrivia River, runs the Brevenna<br />
river valley immersed <strong>in</strong> a natural<br />
environment of predom<strong>in</strong>antly<br />
hardwood forests. Its centre<br />
Valbrevenna is formed by seven frazioni<br />
(Italian council <strong>di</strong>stricts), which <strong>in</strong><br />
summer are populated by holiday<br />
makers. At Mol<strong>in</strong>o Vecchio, location of<br />
the Town Hall, the Sanctuary of the<br />
Madonna dell’Acqua is an example of<br />
the popular architectural style of the<br />
time (1744). At Frass<strong>in</strong>ello parts of the<br />
Hunt<strong>in</strong>g Palace of the Fieschi are open to<br />
the public. The ru<strong>in</strong>s of the Fieschi Castle<br />
(XII sec.), the Palazzo (XVth century), and<br />
the Ethnological Section of the Historical<br />
Museum of the Alta Scrivia Valley,<br />
exhibit<strong>in</strong>g ancient farm<strong>in</strong>g tools can all<br />
be admired <strong>in</strong> Senarega.<br />
17
Fort Sperone
Forts, castles and<br />
monumental complexes<br />
The founta<strong>in</strong>s of Fontanigorda<br />
><br />
GENOVESATO<br />
TRACES OF HISTORY<br />
In the <strong>Genoese</strong> valleys, history is a concrete and vivid reality, which has never been<br />
forgotten. Evidence of this can be seen <strong>in</strong> the <strong>area</strong>’s turreted castles, formerly presided over<br />
by the noble Doria, Fieschi, Malasp<strong>in</strong>a and Sp<strong>in</strong>oza families, who fought each other for<br />
centuries to w<strong>in</strong> dom<strong>in</strong>ion over these lands. Caravans of mule drivers passed through here,<br />
as they crossed the Vie del Sale (the salt trade paths) tak<strong>in</strong>g their 'white gold' from Genoa La<br />
Superba to the cities of Piedmont and the Po Valley. An unceas<strong>in</strong>g thoroughfare of men,<br />
culture and goods, which cont<strong>in</strong>ued well <strong>in</strong>to the 1800's. The roads were monitored by the<br />
<strong>Genoese</strong>, who defended their own houses by a series of circular walls and forts. But their<br />
efforts <strong>di</strong>d not end there. The Republic built its own aqueduct, to supply both the city and<br />
ships from every part of the Me<strong>di</strong>terranean with water.<br />
Fontanigorda and<br />
its founta<strong>in</strong>s<br />
A small village of the high<br />
Trebbia Valley,<br />
Fontanigorda, former<br />
feudal hold<strong>in</strong>g of the<br />
Malasp<strong>in</strong>a and Fieschi<br />
families, jo<strong>in</strong>ed the Republic<br />
of Genoa <strong>in</strong> the XIIIth<br />
century. In its narrow streets<br />
there are no less than 13<br />
babbl<strong>in</strong>g founta<strong>in</strong>s, <strong>in</strong><br />
de<strong>di</strong>cation to the Madonna<br />
Addolorata, they are<br />
supplied with water from<br />
the spr<strong>in</strong>gs of the nearby<br />
Bosco della Fate. In the<br />
forest there is also a sports<br />
centre, a fresh water<br />
aquarium and a path paved<br />
<strong>in</strong> slate, on which are<br />
engraved verses, which the<br />
poet Giorgio Caproni<br />
de<strong>di</strong>cated to the Valley.<br />
19
GENOVESATO<br />
TRACES OF HISTORY<br />
The Great Walls of the Superba<br />
Fort Diamante Fort Pu<strong>in</strong><br />
20<br />
The new city walls were constructed around<br />
the higher parts of the city (1626-1639), to<br />
protect the city centre from attacks from the<br />
franco/piedmont military forces; they<br />
stretched, on the eastern side, from the<br />
mouth of the Bisagno River to the Peralto<br />
Mount, and to the west up until the<br />
Lighthouse. Totall<strong>in</strong>g almost 20 km <strong>in</strong> length,<br />
and re<strong>in</strong>forced by 18 forts, they were<br />
constructed tak<strong>in</strong>g advantage of the natural<br />
defences provided by the mounta<strong>in</strong>ous<br />
amphitheatre just beh<strong>in</strong>d Genoa. Most of the<br />
city walls have been destroyed, but most of<br />
the forts, and some of the large city gates and<br />
military works of defence, rema<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>tact. The<br />
entire <strong>area</strong> (800 hectares) is now the Urban<br />
City Wall Park (www.forti-genova.com),<br />
where Me<strong>di</strong>terranean scrub gradually gives<br />
way to holms and hop hornbeams, as one<br />
ascends up the mounta<strong>in</strong>. There are squirrels,<br />
boars and foxes liv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> this park and it is a<br />
stopover for migratory species of birds, such<br />
as the short toed eagle and the honey<br />
buzzard. It is easily reached by car or with the<br />
cable cars of Granarolo or Righi. You can get<br />
there on foot, follow<strong>in</strong>g the traces of the old<br />
military road which ran from fort to fort. It is<br />
an evocative walk which takes up almost a day.<br />
Once hav<strong>in</strong>g climbed up to Righi, you can walk<br />
along the l<strong>in</strong>e of the Mura delle Chiappe, up to<br />
the Fort of Castellaccio, then, follow the <strong>di</strong>rt<br />
roads and paths to Fort Sperone, which rises up<br />
from a peak of the homonymous Mount. It’s<br />
possible to visit Fort Pu<strong>in</strong> (1815-30) and Fort<br />
Diamante, the highest po<strong>in</strong>t of the excursion<br />
(667 m), and the furthest out posted of the<br />
defence system, featur<strong>in</strong>g a double star<br />
fortification. It’s possible to return from Fort<br />
Sperone by mak<strong>in</strong>g a little detour which leads<br />
to Fort Begato (1818-36), Fort Castellaccio<br />
(early ’800's) and Fort Tenaglia (1815-36)<br />
before return<strong>in</strong>g to the city. Along the cliff tops<br />
which jo<strong>in</strong> up the forts, a complex system of<br />
trenches, embankments, drystone walls, and<br />
palisades are still visible. These helped defend<br />
the city from Austrian and French attacks,<br />
between 1756 and 1810. Fort Santa Tecla<br />
(1747 -51), located <strong>in</strong> the neighbourhood of<br />
San Fruttuoso, together with Fort Begato, is the<br />
only one to have been recently restored. In its<br />
more than 25 rooms, great halls and weapons<br />
room, the history of "La Superba” is retold.
Aqueduct<br />
The Old <strong>Genoese</strong> Aqueduct.<br />
Almost 40 km <strong>in</strong> length, the old Aqueduct,<br />
which brought water to the <strong>Genoese</strong>,<br />
commences from La Presa (formerly known as<br />
Schienadas<strong>in</strong>o), <strong>in</strong> Bargagli, it then crosses the<br />
Bisagno Valley, passes Sottoripa, and ends up,<br />
f<strong>in</strong>ally at the wharf, where it empties <strong>in</strong>to the<br />
cistern called Castle of Water. Orig<strong>in</strong>ally a<br />
Roman and me<strong>di</strong>eval construction, it was<br />
revamped <strong>in</strong> the 1600's. In the follow<strong>in</strong>g<br />
centuries it was subject to numerous<br />
mo<strong>di</strong>fications, follow<strong>in</strong>g the work of famous<br />
architects like Carlo Barab<strong>in</strong>o who created<br />
<strong>in</strong>novative eng<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g works, such as the<br />
siphon bridge which crosses over the Staglieno<br />
Cemetery (1825). Its most spectacular segments<br />
are those <strong>in</strong> the vic<strong>in</strong>ity of the Church of San Siro<br />
of Struppa, the canal bridge on Rio Torbido<br />
which is more than 100m long and 35metres<br />
high, and the Portal of Barab<strong>in</strong>o at Rov<strong>in</strong>ata.<br />
Along its course there are mills and dwell<strong>in</strong>gs for<br />
the custo<strong>di</strong>ans. It is no longer <strong>in</strong> use, but it has<br />
become a spectacular touristic historical walk<strong>in</strong>g<br />
track, 28 km <strong>in</strong> length, an easy and pleasant<br />
walk. For <strong>in</strong>formation, contact: Associazione<br />
Culturale Antico Acquedotto, tel. 010.802665.<br />
From Castle to Castle<br />
> At Borgo Fornari, there is the Sp<strong>in</strong>ola<br />
Castle, opened on the 14th July, 2008, after<br />
several years of restoration work.<br />
> Gorreto. You can view this town from the<br />
ru<strong>in</strong>s of the Malasp<strong>in</strong>a Castle.<br />
> Isola del Cantone. The Sp<strong>in</strong>ola-Cantone<br />
Castle was built <strong>in</strong> the XIIIth century, with<br />
an ashlar portal, whilst the Sp<strong>in</strong>ola-<br />
Mignacco Castle (XIIIth century), was built<br />
on a rock spur. Montoggio. The Fieschi<br />
Castle ru<strong>in</strong>s rema<strong>in</strong>.<br />
> Pietrabissara. Remnants of the Sp<strong>in</strong>ola<br />
Castle dom<strong>in</strong>ate the scene.<br />
> Savignone. The ru<strong>in</strong>s of the Fieschi Castle<br />
are to be found <strong>in</strong> its centre.<br />
> Senarega. The Fieschi Castle is<br />
complemented by an impos<strong>in</strong>g tower<br />
(XIIth century).<br />
> Vobbia. The Castello della Pietra (the XIIIth<br />
century Stone Castle) Wedged between two<br />
rock spurs, and restored <strong>in</strong> 2001, this rema<strong>in</strong>s<br />
a jewel of castle architecture.<br />
www.coopcastellodellapietra.it<br />
The castle<br />
of Borgo<br />
Fornari<br />
21
22<br />
><br />
GENOVESATO<br />
TRACES OF HISTORY<br />
History of the valleys<br />
The lands of the Tavola Bronzea. In 1506,<br />
Agost<strong>in</strong>o Pedemonte found, <strong>in</strong> the Pernecco river<br />
bed at Pedemonte <strong>di</strong> Serra Riccò, the mysterious<br />
Tavola Bronzea, or Bronze Tablet. It was a bronze<br />
plaque dat<strong>in</strong>g back to 117 B.C., with a Lat<strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>in</strong>scription of a rul<strong>in</strong>g released by the Roman<br />
Senate regard<strong>in</strong>g a <strong>di</strong>spute for land boundaries<br />
between the Genuates and the Veiturii-Langenses,<br />
Ligurian tribes who at that time lived <strong>in</strong> the<br />
Polcevera valley and on the coast. The chance f<strong>in</strong>d<br />
was despatched to Genoa, after which it was<br />
housed <strong>in</strong> Palazzo Ducale, and later transferred to<br />
the mayor's chambers <strong>in</strong> Tursi Palace. S<strong>in</strong>ce 1993<br />
it has been on <strong>di</strong>splay <strong>in</strong> the Archaeological<br />
Museum of Villa Durazzo-Pallavic<strong>in</strong>i <strong>in</strong> Pegli. This<br />
precious f<strong>in</strong>d is the first and oldest historical<br />
document of the Polcevera Valley.<br />
White Gold, the salt paths. As a fundamental<br />
<strong>in</strong>gre<strong>di</strong>ent of human nutrition, <strong>in</strong> the past, salt<br />
was more precious than gold. Roads were<br />
constructed to facilitate the salt trade between<br />
Genoa and the Po Valley. One of these roads<br />
went from Genoa to Sant’Olcese, through to<br />
Casella and Crocefieschi, cross<strong>in</strong>g the Monte<br />
Cravi ridge, and pass<strong>in</strong>g through Mongiard<strong>in</strong>o,<br />
Rocchetta and Fabbrica <strong>in</strong> the <strong>area</strong> of Tortona. An<br />
The Tavola Bronzea<br />
alternative route, once hav<strong>in</strong>g left Genoa, crossed<br />
the Bisagno and the Trebbia Valleys. It passed<br />
Gorreto, and cont<strong>in</strong>ued downhill to Bobbio and<br />
Piacenza to f<strong>in</strong>ally reach Pavia. The routes were<br />
controlled by the lords of the towns they passed<br />
through, who guaranteed their safe passage <strong>in</strong><br />
exchange for a levy paid by the merchants.<br />
Wanderers, merchants, pilgrims, artisans and street<br />
artists brought not only food, but also enriched the<br />
culture, <strong>in</strong>troduc<strong>in</strong>g alternate lifestyles, tra<strong>di</strong>tions<br />
and legends. In order to avoid taxes, the precious salt<br />
was often covered with layers of anchovies. In fact,<br />
salted anchovies, called pan do mâ, or pesce dei<br />
poveri (poor man's fish), was a staple of the Ligurian<br />
and Piedmontese <strong>di</strong>ets.<br />
Ancient devotions <strong>in</strong> the Abbey of San Siro of<br />
Struppa. The Bene<strong>di</strong>ct<strong>in</strong>e Abbey of San Siro of<br />
Struppa, a me<strong>di</strong>eval church, <strong>in</strong> Genoa's north<br />
eastern region, is strategically positioned between<br />
the Bisagno and the Scrivia Valleys, the Scoffera river<br />
and the Trebbia Valley. Its name comes from Siro,<br />
bishop of Genoa, born <strong>in</strong> the neighbour<strong>in</strong>g village of<br />
Molassana <strong>in</strong> the IVth century. The Abbey was built<br />
<strong>in</strong> the protoromanesque style, <strong>in</strong> the XIth century. Its<br />
façade <strong>di</strong>splays a beautiful rose; the belltower has<br />
three w<strong>in</strong>dows and hemispherical apses capped <strong>in</strong>
The Presepe of Pentema<br />
low hemispherical vaults. The abbey is formed by<br />
three naves, covered <strong>in</strong> wooden trusses. Notable<br />
artworks <strong>in</strong> this place of worship <strong>in</strong>clude the<br />
capitals of the wooden columns, the traces of<br />
frescoes, the holy water font of the XIIIth century,<br />
and <strong>in</strong> the left nave, the polyptych depict<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
Sa<strong>in</strong>t on a throne, 8 episodes of his life, and the<br />
Virg<strong>in</strong> with Child (1516), the cre<strong>di</strong>t for which has<br />
been ascribed to Pier Francesco Sacchi<br />
(www.<strong>di</strong>ocesi.genova.it).<br />
Pentema, fairy hamlet home of the Presepe.<br />
The picturesque hamlet of Pentema, at an altitude<br />
of 825m, was probably founded <strong>in</strong> the XIVth<br />
century. It is situated under the mounta<strong>in</strong> side that<br />
separates the Pentema valley from the Brevenna<br />
Valley, at about 10 km from Torriglia. It consists of a<br />
few scattered stone houses surrounded by greenery<br />
that lead uphill towards the church. Its famous<br />
presepe (Italian nativity scene), set <strong>in</strong> the late XIXth<br />
century, is an accurate representation of the<br />
peasant world. Mannequ<strong>in</strong>s of life-size proportions,<br />
dressed <strong>in</strong> period costumes, represent<strong>in</strong>g various<br />
characters of the nativity are depicted go<strong>in</strong>g about<br />
their daily tasks. Each character has been situated<br />
<strong>in</strong> the actual part of Pentema, that he or she once<br />
worked (tel. 010.944802).<br />
Historical parades<br />
and religious festivals<br />
> Montebruno. Feast of the Sanctuary of<br />
the Madonna of Montebruno, is<br />
celebrated on the 8th September. Solemn<br />
religious celebrations are followed by<br />
even<strong>in</strong>g processions through the village<br />
streets, bear<strong>in</strong>g the statue of the<br />
Madonna. Choral and musical concerts<br />
are organised, and there are gastronomic<br />
food stalls (tel. 010.95033).<br />
> Pontedecimo. Palio della Tavola<br />
Bronzea, June. This festival is a 'return' to<br />
the Middle Ages, all participants are<br />
dressed <strong>in</strong> period costume, and are<br />
<strong>in</strong>volved <strong>in</strong> the Palio. Events <strong>in</strong>clude a<br />
parade <strong>in</strong> period costume, flag throw<strong>in</strong>g<br />
performances, archery competitions, and<br />
knights (tel. 010.4698001, V Municipio<br />
Valpolcevera).<br />
> Valbrevenna. Ü Mündantigu, end of<br />
August. In this festival aspects of the<br />
early valley life style are re-enacted.<br />
There are gastronomic stands and<br />
<strong>di</strong>splays of the ancient crafts.<br />
www.comune.valbrevenna.ge.it<br />
The Sanctuary<br />
of Montebruno<br />
23
The legenday Recco foacaccia
Cappon Magro<br />
><br />
GENOVESATO<br />
SCENTS AND FLAVOURS<br />
The <strong>in</strong>tense aromas of the sea<br />
and hills<br />
From the Islamic across the seas cultures, Genoa was <strong>in</strong>troduced to dry and freshly filled pasta<br />
but also to its famous basil and garlic pesto, be<strong>in</strong>g a derivative of the antique moretum<br />
(season<strong>in</strong>g made with garlic, parsley, dry cheese, rue and coriander). Meanwhile, from the hills<br />
and valleys came the <strong>in</strong>tense aromas of a cuis<strong>in</strong>e made up of wild herbs (from the<br />
Me<strong>di</strong>terranean scrub), and fresh or dried porc<strong>in</strong>i mushrooms added to fill<strong>in</strong>gs and sauces. Olives,<br />
p<strong>in</strong>e nuts, borrage, walnuts, artichokes, silverbeet and other greens are never scarce. The most<br />
appetis<strong>in</strong>g <strong>Genoese</strong> <strong>di</strong>shes are: focaccia (ooz<strong>in</strong>g with cheese, olives, onions, or oil), <strong>Genoese</strong><br />
m<strong>in</strong>estrone (a vegetable soup), torta Pasqual<strong>in</strong>a (a vegetable flan typical of the Easter period),<br />
cima (a cold meat stuffed with vegetables, eggs and pistachios), cappon magro, and pandolce.<br />
Most <strong>in</strong>vit<strong>in</strong>g amongst the cheeses: the presc<strong>in</strong>seua, and the classical formaggette.<br />
Cappon Magro<br />
This <strong>di</strong>sh is usually<br />
prepared at Christmas. A<br />
layer of flat crisp breads,<br />
softened with water and<br />
v<strong>in</strong>egar forms the base.<br />
This base is then layered<br />
with fish roe, vegetables<br />
(potatoes, cauliflower,<br />
beetroot, artichokes and<br />
boiled carrots), and fish<br />
(cod, lobster, oysters and<br />
anchovies). A handful of<br />
quail eggs and capers are<br />
also added. The <strong>di</strong>sh is<br />
seasoned with a sauce<br />
made from parsley,<br />
green olives, hard boiled<br />
egg yolk, capers and<br />
p<strong>in</strong>e nuts.<br />
25
Pesto<br />
26<br />
GENOVESATO<br />
SCENTS AND FLAVOURS<br />
“Zeneize” Cuis<strong>in</strong>e<br />
Val Polcevera: pumpk<strong>in</strong>s, w<strong>in</strong>es, corzetti and<br />
salami. The Pumpk<strong>in</strong> Fair has been held <strong>in</strong> the<br />
hillside hamlet of Murta, s<strong>in</strong>ce 1986 (on the<br />
second and third weekend of November). At<br />
the fair there are pumpk<strong>in</strong>s of every imag<strong>in</strong>able<br />
shape and size, and hundreds of pumpk<strong>in</strong><br />
products to choose from <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g musical<br />
<strong>in</strong>struments. In ad<strong>di</strong>tion, appetis<strong>in</strong>g pumpk<strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>di</strong>shes are prepared by the local restaurants<br />
(www.murtmaezucche.it). The corzetti,<br />
prepared <strong>in</strong> the Polceverasca style, are ideally<br />
served with a meat or mushroom sauce. This<br />
pasta gets its particular shape from apply<strong>in</strong>g a<br />
light f<strong>in</strong>ger pressure to a 1 cm square of pasta,<br />
till it resembles the figure eight. The salami<br />
from this <strong>area</strong> is velvety and lightly smoked and<br />
is a perfect accompaniment to broad beans<br />
and fresh pecor<strong>in</strong>o cheese. It's made <strong>in</strong><br />
Sant’Olcese and Orero, from a selection of<br />
meats, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g pork from Emilian pigs and<br />
Piedmontese beef. In the <strong>area</strong> of Serra Riccò,<br />
Savignone and Vobbia you can f<strong>in</strong>d the<br />
mostardella: a soft spreadable sausage like<br />
meat, which is usually savoured on fresh bread.<br />
These delicacies are preferably washed down<br />
with a glass of Coronata, a full bo<strong>di</strong>ed dry<br />
Canestrelli<br />
white w<strong>in</strong>e, of an <strong>in</strong>tense aroma. Coronata is a<br />
unique Italian metropolitan w<strong>in</strong>e, as its v<strong>in</strong>eyards<br />
extend over the Coronata hill located with<strong>in</strong> the<br />
<strong>Genoese</strong> border. It was first produced <strong>in</strong> 1535 and<br />
s<strong>in</strong>ce 1983 its production has been <strong>in</strong> the hands of<br />
the Valpolcevera Coronata Viticulturists<br />
Cooperative. The Bianchetta Genovese<br />
Valpolcevera Doc is another excellent white w<strong>in</strong>e,<br />
light yellow <strong>in</strong> colour, it has a delicate and persistent<br />
bouquet.<br />
A tuber from afar. The Quarant<strong>in</strong>a Bianca Genovese<br />
potato arrived <strong>in</strong> Genoa from America towards the<br />
end of the eighteenth century. It has now become<br />
widespread <strong>in</strong> Genoa and the surround<strong>in</strong>g <strong>area</strong>s. A<br />
homonymous Consortium of over 50 growers was<br />
formed <strong>in</strong> order to promote the irregular smooth<br />
sk<strong>in</strong>ned, cream coloured potato. It is perfect with<br />
trenette al pesto, tripe and cod. The Festival of the<br />
quarant<strong>in</strong>e potato, organized <strong>in</strong> the Corsiglia<br />
woods at Roccatagliata, <strong>in</strong> the vic<strong>in</strong>ity of Neirone, is<br />
held on the penultimate Sunday of August and at<br />
Rovegno on the first Sunday of October. It is more<br />
than just a village fair, it is a historical re evocation of<br />
a unique product.<br />
Scrivia and Alta Trebbia valleys: Beers, Rose Syrup,<br />
Canestrelli and Honey. In 1878 the Swiss Pomer and
Rau decided to open the first factory of Italian beer<br />
<strong>in</strong> Busalla. Today, beers are still produced on the<br />
premises, us<strong>in</strong>g local <strong>in</strong>gre<strong>di</strong>ents, such as chestnuts<br />
from the Graveglia Valley to make Castagnasca,<br />
honey and roses from the Scrivia Valley to make<br />
Miele e la Rosa. Torriglia and Montoggio are<br />
famous for their canestrelli, daisy shaped butter<br />
biscuits dusted with ic<strong>in</strong>g sugar which have been<br />
produced s<strong>in</strong>ce the XVIth century. The Canestrelli<br />
Fairs (Sagre) are held <strong>in</strong> Torriglia on the third Sunday<br />
of May, whilst <strong>in</strong> Montoggio they are held <strong>in</strong> July.<br />
Honey production and <strong>in</strong> particular the production<br />
of chestnut honey, is widespread <strong>in</strong> the entire valley.<br />
A large number of beekeepers are <strong>in</strong>volved <strong>in</strong> The<br />
Honey food fair of Torriglia, (held <strong>in</strong> the first week<br />
of September).<br />
Gluttony <strong>in</strong> Para<strong>di</strong>se. In the various <strong>di</strong>stricts of the<br />
Para<strong>di</strong>so Gulf there are many food fairs and<br />
gastronomic feasts. In the last week of July there is<br />
the Pansoti Fair, a speciality of Bogliasco. The name<br />
(mean<strong>in</strong>g big bellied), comes from the shape<br />
formed by this pasta, filled with a variety of wild<br />
herbs and marjoram (preböggion). It is served with<br />
a walnut or p<strong>in</strong>e nut sauce. At Sori, the Trofie Fair is<br />
organised for the end of June. Curls of freshly made<br />
pasta are served with pesto. The small fried cheese<br />
focaccias are a speciality of Case Cornua. In the<br />
past, families too poor to buy wheat flour used<br />
flour made from chestnuts. Their eclectic taste and<br />
quality are celebrated <strong>in</strong> the food fair of the Batolli<br />
<strong>in</strong> Uscio. Batolli are tagliatelle made of chestnut<br />
and wheat flour, the fair is held on the second<br />
Sunday of September; while the Castagnello is a<br />
sweet made from chestnut flour; and celebrated on<br />
the third Sunday of October. Tra<strong>di</strong>tion has it that<br />
Trofie were actually <strong>in</strong>vented <strong>in</strong> Avegno. A tasty<br />
variant are the crazy trofie, (or trofie matte), made<br />
also from chestnut flour.<br />
Pesto and Pestos<br />
A faithful companion of trofie, lasagne,<br />
gnocchi, trenette, the <strong>Genoese</strong> pesto<br />
comes <strong>in</strong> many <strong>di</strong>fferent varieties: with<br />
walnuts or p<strong>in</strong>e nuts, with pecor<strong>in</strong>o,<br />
parmesan or presc<strong>in</strong>seua cheese. But the<br />
basic <strong>in</strong>gre<strong>di</strong>ents are always olive oil,<br />
garlic and basil from Prà. Unique and<br />
unmistakeable. All <strong>in</strong>gre<strong>di</strong>ents are<br />
crushed together by mortar and pestle,<br />
which must unquestionably be made of<br />
wood.<br />
World Famous<br />
Focaccia<br />
Recco, the gastronomic capital of Liguria,<br />
is known all over the world for its focaccia<br />
made with cheese and sour dough. The<br />
Feast of the Focaccia is held on the fourth<br />
Sunday of May (www.focaccia<strong>di</strong>recco.it).<br />
All the way through May, August,<br />
November and December, one can also<br />
appreciate the Gastronomic even<strong>in</strong>gs of<br />
Recco <strong>in</strong> which the restaurants of the<br />
Recco Gastronomic Consortium<br />
(www.focaccia<strong>di</strong>recco.it) take part <strong>in</strong>.<br />
Another Focaccetta fair (the Sagra delle<br />
Focaccette) is held at the nearby<br />
Sanctuary of Nostra Signora delle Grazie<br />
at Megli, <strong>in</strong> the second week of April.<br />
Visitors may also be <strong>in</strong>terested <strong>in</strong> see<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the Sanctuary, which houses a relic<br />
brought over from the crusades (1216),<br />
and a collection of ex-votos.<br />
27
The Pro Recco team <strong>in</strong> the pool of Sori
The Carlo Androne Rugby pitch<br />
><br />
GENOVESATO<br />
SPORT ITINERARIES<br />
Sport without boundaries,<br />
from the sea to the mounta<strong>in</strong>s<br />
Say the word sport and one imme<strong>di</strong>ately th<strong>in</strong>ks of <strong>in</strong>tensive sportsmanship,<br />
competition, races, tactical moves, sports centres, swimm<strong>in</strong>g pools, sports<br />
sta<strong>di</strong>ums etc. But if one takes a moment to reflect on the true nature of sport,<br />
whilst carefully observ<strong>in</strong>g Liguria, and the Genoa <strong>area</strong>, its sea and <strong>in</strong>land valleys,<br />
one realizes that there is a complete and varied territory available for Sport<strong>in</strong>g<br />
activities, <strong>in</strong> the true sense of the word. There is the sea, there are the rivers,<br />
there are the facilitated alp<strong>in</strong>e tracks (vie ferrate), there are paths and fields to<br />
explore. There is a True Sport<strong>in</strong>g Spirit, with no need for sta<strong>di</strong>ums, just the thrill<br />
of pure enjoyment as one embarks on self challeng<strong>in</strong>g experiences.<br />
Synthetic Rugby<br />
Fields<br />
Recco also boasts<br />
another first, not <strong>in</strong> the<br />
field of sea sports but<br />
regard<strong>in</strong>g land based<br />
activities: the Carlo<br />
Androne Pro Recco Rugby<br />
Field, synthetic field was<br />
the first ever to be set up<br />
<strong>in</strong> Italy and de<strong>di</strong>cate<br />
itself this noble sport.<br />
29
30<br />
GENOVESATO<br />
SPORT ITINERARIES<br />
Water Polo, trekk<strong>in</strong>g and Whales<br />
Submerged <strong>in</strong> an expanse of water with the<br />
mounta<strong>in</strong>s press<strong>in</strong>g their backs, it seems only<br />
natural that the supreme sport<strong>in</strong>g choice for<br />
Ligurians be water polo. In Liguria and all over<br />
the Genoa Region, a swimm<strong>in</strong>g pool is not a<br />
swimm<strong>in</strong>g pool if its not fitted with two goal<br />
posts at either end! The reign<strong>in</strong>g champions of<br />
the sport, hitherto undefeated, are from Recco,<br />
whose team, the Pro Recco, represents both the<br />
history and the future of this sport. But water<br />
polo is attractive also because one can play<br />
anywhere and the sea is available to all.<br />
Swimm<strong>in</strong>g and water polo venues are well<br />
<strong>di</strong>stributed throughout the region, so that it is<br />
never too <strong>di</strong>fficult to f<strong>in</strong>d a swimm<strong>in</strong>g pool<br />
available for a lovely swim. This is so also<br />
because water polo is popular not only <strong>in</strong><br />
Recco, but also <strong>in</strong> Bogliasco, Sori, Pieve Ligure,<br />
Nervi, <strong>in</strong> short, all over the region. There rema<strong>in</strong><br />
plenty of places for those who would prefer to<br />
appreciate the sea <strong>in</strong> peace and quiet, far from<br />
the ubiquitous water polo balls. For those who<br />
prefer fresh water sports, there is the village of<br />
Savignone <strong>in</strong> the Scrivia Valley which has<br />
kayak<strong>in</strong>g and raft<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>ts set up on the<br />
Scrivia River, so that rowers can delight <strong>in</strong> the<br />
watery helter skelters provided by nature. Another<br />
wondrous water pass time is whale watch<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
Excursions leave from the Historic Port regularly,<br />
for the Ligurian Sea is a sanctuary for the<br />
cetaceans. Don't miss the chance of see<strong>in</strong>g them<br />
as thrill<strong>in</strong>g and mov<strong>in</strong>g encounters with whales<br />
and dolph<strong>in</strong>s are the order of the day. Not only are<br />
the sport<strong>in</strong>g possibilities offered by Genoa and<br />
surround<strong>in</strong>g regions water based, but, for example<br />
one can also set off from Pieve Ligure on an<br />
enchant<strong>in</strong>g and pleasant scenic drive to Mount<br />
Santa Croce. And for those who love trekk<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> all<br />
its forms: on foot, by bike, on horseback, the<br />
<strong>Genoese</strong> <strong>area</strong> offers a plethora of opportunities.<br />
"Where are they?" you may ask. Sett<strong>in</strong>g off from<br />
the Ceranesi <strong>in</strong> the Polcevera Valley, one can go on<br />
a trip to the Gorzente Lakes, by the the Lakes path,<br />
and there is also the Pian Lup<strong>in</strong>o track. At<br />
Sant'Olcese, apart from mak<strong>in</strong>g a gastronomic<br />
visit, one can also walk the very <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g nature<br />
trail of Ciaè, along which one may admire a variety<br />
of endemic Ligurian species. But the attractions of<br />
the <strong>area</strong> do not end there, bear<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> m<strong>in</strong>d that<br />
the scenery of the Polcevera Valley also acts as a<br />
splen<strong>di</strong>d backdrop for one of the classic<br />
<strong>in</strong>ternational cycl<strong>in</strong>g races: The Apenn<strong>in</strong>e Circuit
which departure and arrival po<strong>in</strong>t is at<br />
Pontedecimo, an event which is now over 100<br />
years old, and which lists, <strong>in</strong> its register of gold<br />
medals, names of the most famous celebrities of<br />
this sport. Cont<strong>in</strong>u<strong>in</strong>g the valley tour, we come<br />
across the Scrivia Valley. Crocefieschi is the<br />
start<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t of two trekk<strong>in</strong>g favourites; a route<br />
lead<strong>in</strong>g to the sport<strong>in</strong>g structures <strong>in</strong> Braia Park or<br />
the path to Rocche del Reopasso. On the border of<br />
Valbisagno and alta Val Trebbia the highest<br />
municipality of Liguria is to be found, at 1118 m<br />
above sea level: from Fascia, <strong>in</strong> Casa del Romano,<br />
the path to Mount Antola and Mount Carmo<br />
beg<strong>in</strong>s, and one can also visit the Astronomical<br />
Observatory. Mount Antola also appears on the<br />
Caprile circuit, depart<strong>in</strong>g from Caprile. Another<br />
circuit leaves from Pentema, and takes four hours<br />
to complete. Last, but not least is Brugneto Lake,<br />
which boasts a track equipped to facilitate<br />
walkers. Sport <strong>in</strong> the <strong>Genoese</strong> region means<br />
satisfy<strong>in</strong>g all tastes, as its unique and varied<br />
landscapes can accommodate an equally<br />
<strong>di</strong>versified range of sport<strong>in</strong>g possibilities; sport <strong>in</strong><br />
the <strong>Genoese</strong> region means allow<strong>in</strong>g yourself to<br />
be thrilled by the <strong>in</strong>tense emotions <strong>in</strong>spired by a<br />
land suspended between the sea and mounta<strong>in</strong>s.<br />
Yacht Club Italiano<br />
They say that the <strong>Genoese</strong> are the<br />
most Britannic of Italy, and that is<br />
how the Italian Yacht club came to<br />
be. It is the only <strong>Genoese</strong> association<br />
that can boast not hav<strong>in</strong>g the name<br />
of the city <strong>in</strong>cluded <strong>in</strong> its title,<br />
because when you say 'Yacht Club', it<br />
is implicit of Genoa. The Italian Yacht<br />
Club, founded at the end of the<br />
n<strong>in</strong>eteenth century, is the oldest<br />
me<strong>di</strong>terranean sail<strong>in</strong>g club. It hosts<br />
one of the most prestigious sail<strong>in</strong>g<br />
schools, right next to the historical<br />
headquarters of the club, are the<br />
famous canoe<strong>in</strong>g schools: Row<strong>in</strong>g<br />
and Elpis.<br />
www.yachtclubitaliano.it<br />
31
Villa Borz<strong>in</strong>o
D’Albertis Castle<br />
><br />
GENOVESATO<br />
UN MARE DI GIARDINI<br />
Stories of water, Villas and<br />
Parks <strong>in</strong> nature’s green<br />
Many villas highlight the opulent lifestyles, power and wealth of the great Patrizian<br />
families and enterpris<strong>in</strong>g <strong>Genoese</strong> who constructed them over the centuries from<br />
the 1400's. There are also magnificent Natural Parks, some of which descend right<br />
down to the sea, whilst others climb the valleys of the region right up to the peaks<br />
of the Apenn<strong>in</strong>es. “La Superba” becomes “La Div<strong>in</strong>a”, (the <strong>di</strong>v<strong>in</strong>e) dur<strong>in</strong>g EuroFlora,<br />
an expo which is organized every five years as part of the Genoa Fair, and which fills<br />
the entire city with flowers from all over the globe. More than 500 thousand visitors<br />
came to the last EuroFlora, held <strong>in</strong> 2006, whilst the next, a must for all green f<strong>in</strong>gers,<br />
will be held from the 22nd April, to the 1st May <strong>in</strong> 2011.<br />
The Scent of Far<br />
Away Lands.<br />
At the highest po<strong>in</strong>t of the<br />
Montegalletto bastion,<br />
built <strong>in</strong> the 1500's, there is<br />
the D’Albertis Castle,<br />
overlook<strong>in</strong>g the sea. The<br />
neogothic build<strong>in</strong>g was<br />
commissioned by Capta<strong>in</strong><br />
Enrico Alberto D’Albertis,<br />
explorer and<br />
anthropologist. Build<strong>in</strong>g<br />
began <strong>in</strong> 1886 and was<br />
completed <strong>in</strong> 1892, with<br />
the supervision of Alfredo<br />
D’Andrade. Today it is<br />
surrounded by a park, and<br />
hosts Museum of world<br />
cultures.<br />
(www.castellodalbertisgenova.it)<br />
33
GENOVESATO<br />
A SEA OF GARDENS<br />
Nature meets Art<br />
Villa Serra<br />
34<br />
<strong>Genoese</strong> villas. The pomp and glory of the past<br />
is still evident <strong>in</strong> the <strong>Genoese</strong> villas which<br />
enchanted Henri de Sa<strong>in</strong>t Simon and Friedrich<br />
Nietzsche dur<strong>in</strong>g their grand Italian tour. There<br />
is a large concentration of villas on the hillside<br />
of Albaro, once an aristocratic holiday spot and<br />
long considered a chic part of the city. In<br />
particular, the notable villas <strong>in</strong> Via Albaro are:<br />
Villa Saluzzo Mongiard<strong>in</strong>o (1700's), No. 1<br />
George Byron stayed there <strong>in</strong> 1823; Villa<br />
Para<strong>di</strong>so (late 1500's) No. 4, is a private<br />
dwell<strong>in</strong>g, conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g frescoes by Tavarone, and<br />
Castello, and is where Fabrizio De André lived<br />
out his youth and met G<strong>in</strong>o Paoli, who lived <strong>in</strong> a<br />
w<strong>in</strong>g of the villa above, known as Il Para<strong>di</strong>setto;<br />
Villa Saluzzo Paro<strong>di</strong>, opposite the former; Villa<br />
Giust<strong>in</strong>iani Cambiaso (1500's), opposite the<br />
Church of San Francesco, now houses the<br />
faculty of eng<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g, and was designed by<br />
Galeazzo Alessi; Villa Saluzzo Bombr<strong>in</strong>i (late XIX<br />
century) No. 38, is now the Conservatorium<br />
Niccolò Pagan<strong>in</strong>i boast<strong>in</strong>g an English style park.<br />
Villa Imperiale, located <strong>in</strong> the neighbourhood of<br />
San Fruttuoso, and constructed at the end of<br />
the XVth century for the nobleman Lorenzo<br />
Cristoforo Cattaneo, hosted K<strong>in</strong>g Louis XIIth of<br />
France <strong>in</strong> 1502. It now belongs to the city council,<br />
and it has a 16th century style park. Villa Croce<br />
was built <strong>in</strong> the 1800's, on the hill of Carignano,<br />
and now looks onto Genoa's Fair and Exhibition<br />
centre. It was donated by Andrea Croce to the City<br />
Council of Genoa, and now hosts the Museum of<br />
Contemporary Art. The Nervi Parks, where nature<br />
meets art. Lush, plush, almost tropical vegetation<br />
has thrived, protected, <strong>in</strong> The Nervi Parks, thanks<br />
to the mild nature of its climate. A green fabric of<br />
palms, sequoias, magnolias, araucarias, cicas,<br />
exotic and me<strong>di</strong>terranean plants and spectacular<br />
rose bushes, spread out over more than 9 hectares.<br />
Three historic villas <strong>in</strong> the park now host valuable<br />
museums, which represent the new museum<br />
w<strong>in</strong>g of “La Superba”. In Villa Gropallo, country<br />
residence of the Marquis Gaetano Gropallo, there<br />
is the V. Brocchi library. In Villa Saluzzo Serra (XVIth<br />
century) there is the Gallery of Modern Art, with<br />
works of Italian artists from the XIXth and XXth<br />
centuries, and the eighteenth century Villa<br />
Grimal<strong>di</strong> Fassio with its English park slop<strong>in</strong>g down<br />
towards the sea and its characteristic rose garden.<br />
It is now the Museum Frugone Collection, a gallery<br />
of n<strong>in</strong>eteenth century figurative art. Further on, at<br />
No. 4. Serra Gropallo St., there is La Wolfsoniana,
conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g the Mitchell Wolfson Jr Art Collection<br />
of figurative and decorative art, architecture and<br />
design from the period between 1880 and1945.<br />
In the eastern section of Nervi there is the Villa<br />
Luxoro (early XXth century), its 8,500 m2 park<br />
slopes down to the rocky shores of Capolungo. Its<br />
rooms host the Civic Museum Giannett<strong>in</strong>o<br />
Luxoro, which exhibits furniture, pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs and<br />
decors from a period spann<strong>in</strong>g the seventeenth<br />
and eighteenth centuries. Comago: Old english<br />
Style. Villa Serra, (www.villaserra.it) at Comago, <strong>in</strong><br />
Val Polcevera, near Sant’Olcese, is an imag<strong>in</strong>ative<br />
creation of the XVIIIth century, remodelled <strong>in</strong> the<br />
neo gothic style <strong>in</strong> the XIXth century. In fact,<br />
alongside the eighteenth century Villa P<strong>in</strong>elli and<br />
me<strong>di</strong>eval tower, Marquis Orso Serra had a Tudor<br />
style cottage built <strong>in</strong> 1850; featur<strong>in</strong>g neo gothic<br />
w<strong>in</strong>dows and precious wood panell<strong>in</strong>g. All set <strong>in</strong><br />
a magnificent English park, extend<strong>in</strong>g over 9<br />
hectares, with avenues towered over by majestic<br />
trees, exotic tree species and flowerbeds with<br />
over 150 <strong>di</strong>fferent varieties of hydrangeas. There<br />
are various founta<strong>in</strong>s scattered here and there,<br />
and a small lake <strong>in</strong>habited by swans. There is<br />
even a charm<strong>in</strong>g hotel and restaurant, that has<br />
opened <strong>in</strong> the crenulated tower.<br />
A balcony over<br />
the Sea<br />
From Bogliasco take the road up to<br />
San Bernardo. From here its path,<br />
partly paved, pass<strong>in</strong>g through heather<br />
and rosemary bushes, leads to Pieve<br />
Alta. Beh<strong>in</strong>d the Church, follow<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
signposts (2 red squares), one climbs<br />
up to Mount Santa Croce (518 m),<br />
crowned by the historical stone church<br />
surrounded by cypresses. A group of<br />
volunteers from Pieve regularly clear<br />
the paths, fields and undergrowth,<br />
where small orchids sprout, <strong>in</strong> order to<br />
protect the environment, and reduce<br />
the risk of large scale forest fires,<br />
<strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>g access to this splen<strong>di</strong>d<br />
balcony overhang<strong>in</strong>g the sea.<br />
35
36<br />
><br />
GENOVESATO<br />
A SEA OF GARDENS<br />
The high roads of the Ligurian Mounta<strong>in</strong>s<br />
Hik<strong>in</strong>g the enchant<strong>in</strong>gly beautiful mounta<strong>in</strong><br />
tracks of the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri (high road<br />
of the Ligurian Mounta<strong>in</strong>s)<br />
(www.altaviadeimontiliguri.it), is the best way to<br />
get to know Liguria from above, suspended<br />
between the blue of the sea and the sky. This<br />
path is 400 km long, marked with red/white/red<br />
signposts, bear<strong>in</strong>g the letters AV, and can be<br />
travelled on foot, by mounta<strong>in</strong> bike or on<br />
horseback. It follows the entire mounta<strong>in</strong> ridge<br />
from Ventimiglia to La Spezia. The spirits of its<br />
travellers may well soar as they pass through<br />
the most spectacular <strong>Genoese</strong> sections of this<br />
walk, as stunn<strong>in</strong>g views open out, amongst<br />
myriad colours and unforgettable scents. The<br />
Alta Via from the Faiallo Pass reaches the<br />
Turch<strong>in</strong>o Pass, arrives at the Colle <strong>di</strong> Praglia, and<br />
the Bocchetta Pass, pass<strong>in</strong>g the Passo dei Giovi,<br />
made famous by the cycl<strong>in</strong>g trials of Fausto<br />
Coppi. Go around the Polcevera Valley and you<br />
are <strong>in</strong> the <strong>di</strong>rection of the Scrivia Valley, climb up<br />
above the Bisagno Valley and, rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g at an<br />
altitude of 1000 m, you pass from the Caross<strong>in</strong>o<br />
peak to that of Mount Alpesisa and Mount<br />
Sp<strong>in</strong>a, up to the Scoffera Pass. The track<br />
proceeds <strong>in</strong> gentle ups and downs, to the<br />
Brugneto lake<br />
Portello Pass and to the Sella della Giass<strong>in</strong>a<br />
look<strong>in</strong>g onto Val Fontanabuona. The hillside<br />
cont<strong>in</strong>ues onto Barbagelata. From here the grade<br />
of <strong>di</strong>fficulty of the track <strong>in</strong>creases: 35 km of tracks<br />
pass over the most prom<strong>in</strong>ent peaks of the<br />
<strong>Genoese</strong> Appenn<strong>in</strong>es. The first peak reached is<br />
Mount Ramaceto (1300 m), hav<strong>in</strong>g an<br />
amphitheatre formation, cont<strong>in</strong>u<strong>in</strong>g along the<br />
Forcella Pass <strong>in</strong> the Aveto Valley, past the Bozale<br />
Pass <strong>in</strong> the <strong>area</strong> of Mount of the Abeti and the<br />
Agoraie Reserve up to the Mounts Aiona and<br />
Penna and one may survey the world, look<strong>in</strong>g<br />
down from an altitude of 1700 m.<br />
The lakes: emerald mirrors amongst the<br />
greenery. From East to West there are the lakes,<br />
emerald transparencies of multi shades of green,<br />
set like sh<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g gems aga<strong>in</strong>st the woods and<br />
pastures. In Trebbia Valley, there is the Brugneto<br />
Lake, formed by an 80m high dam, its calm clear<br />
waters set aga<strong>in</strong>st an undulat<strong>in</strong>g scene of hills<br />
and dales, safe to dr<strong>in</strong>k, see<strong>in</strong>g that it is from here<br />
that most of Genoa’s water supply comes from.<br />
Fish<strong>in</strong>g the lake's trouts and carps is allowed. In<br />
the Scrivia Valley, south of Montoggio, the Noci<br />
Valley Lake opens out. The lake is t<strong>in</strong>y but<br />
contributes to the highly evocative scenery. It is an
The Antola Refuge<br />
artificial lake, created dur<strong>in</strong>g a period of heavy<br />
ra<strong>in</strong> between 1924 and 1930. The course of the<br />
Rio Noci was <strong>in</strong>terrupted by a large dam (56m).<br />
The banks of the lake, home to fish and turtle,<br />
touch the chestnuts, alder and hornbeam forests.<br />
Lake Busalletta, between Busalla and Ronco<br />
Scrivia, is another artificial lake, constructed<br />
between 1970 and 1977, for the Nicolay<br />
Aqueduct, aga<strong>in</strong> created to provide water to “La<br />
Superba”; 50 m deep, it also makes an impressive<br />
scenic element, its high steep banks are<br />
surrounded by dense chestnut forests. Amongst<br />
the Polcevera Valley <strong>in</strong> the east, the Piani <strong>di</strong> Praglia<br />
to the south and the high pla<strong>in</strong>s of Capanne <strong>di</strong><br />
Marcarolo <strong>in</strong> the west, there are the three Laghi<br />
of Gorzente, that form part of the artificial bas<strong>in</strong><br />
of the water reserve of the De Ferrari-Galliera<br />
Acqueduct, a company founded <strong>in</strong> 1880 to satisfy<br />
the city's water needs. In that year, the artificial<br />
bas<strong>in</strong> of Lake Bruno or Lavezze Lake was<br />
completed, <strong>in</strong>1884, that of Lungo Lake, and <strong>in</strong><br />
1906, the Badana Lake. The Gorzente river also<br />
forms pleasant watery mirrors amongst the<br />
woods of black p<strong>in</strong>es and shrubs of heather,<br />
edged <strong>in</strong> t<strong>in</strong>y sand and pebble beaches where<br />
one can go swimm<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the summer.<br />
The Antola Park<br />
The Antola Park is an environmental<br />
treasure trove. Situated <strong>in</strong> Villa Borz<strong>in</strong>o<br />
at Busalla (www.parcoantola.it), it<br />
encloses and protects an <strong>area</strong> of<br />
<strong>in</strong>estimable environmental value,<br />
<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the northern part of the Valle<br />
Trebbia and Valle Scrivia , 4,837 hectares<br />
overlooked by Mount Antola (1597m). A<br />
must for all climb<strong>in</strong>g and trekk<strong>in</strong>g<br />
enthusiasts, there are many walk<strong>in</strong>g<br />
tracks to choose from (270 km), some<br />
form<strong>in</strong>g circuits: the Pentema Circuit,<br />
with its nativity scene, Caprile Circuit,<br />
which through highlands and woods<br />
climbs up to Mount Antola. The Chiappa<br />
Circuit with its glimpses of the Brevenna<br />
Valley and the slopes of Mount Antola;<br />
the Torriglia Circuit which w<strong>in</strong>ds along<br />
the high bas<strong>in</strong> of the Scrivia River. Every<br />
now and aga<strong>in</strong>, through the chestnut<br />
forests, pastures, rivers and lakes<br />
glimpses of ancient rural tra<strong>di</strong>tions<br />
appear (stone and wooden houses, mills,<br />
haystacks, castles,) hamlets, churches<br />
and sanctuaries.<br />
37
GENOVESATO<br />
EVENTS<br />
GENOVA<br />
> Slow Fish<br />
every two years <strong>in</strong> Spr<strong>in</strong>g<br />
> EuroFlora<br />
every five years <strong>in</strong> Spr<strong>in</strong>g<br />
> The Historic Regatta of the Ancient Maritime Republics<br />
every four years <strong>in</strong> June<br />
> International Poetry Festival<br />
June<br />
> International Boat Show<br />
2nd week of the month<br />
> Science Festival<br />
October <strong>di</strong>ffer<strong>in</strong>g locations<br />
GENOVA (Pontedecimo/Passo della Bocchetta/Giovi)<br />
> The Apenn<strong>in</strong>e Circuit<br />
spr<strong>in</strong>g/summer<br />
PIEVE LIGURE<br />
> Sagra della Mimosa<br />
February 2nd sunday<br />
RECCO<br />
> Sagra della Focaccia<br />
end may/June<br />
> Sagra del Fuoco/Festa N.S. del Suffragio<br />
6/8th September<br />
SORI<br />
> Jazz Festival<br />
July/August<br />
VALPOLCEVERA<br />
> Expo Valpolcevera<br />
September<br />
In the territory of the Prov<strong>in</strong>ce of Genoa there are two local tourist boards, which,<br />
with the help of private and public contributions, promote and implement projects<br />
to improve and enrich tourism, by respond<strong>in</strong>g to market demands and develop<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the exist<strong>in</strong>g resources.<br />
STL del <strong>Genovesato</strong> (from Cogoleto up to Sori and its <strong>in</strong>land <strong>area</strong>s)<br />
Palazzo Ducale Piazza Matteotti, 9 - 16123 <strong>Genova</strong><br />
Tel. +39 010 5574095 - Fax +39 010 5574857<br />
www.stlgenovesato.it Email: <strong>in</strong>fo@stlgenovesato.it<br />
STL Terre <strong>di</strong> Portof<strong>in</strong>o (from Recco up to Moneglia and its <strong>in</strong>land <strong>area</strong>s)<br />
Piazza Molf<strong>in</strong>o, 10 - 16035 Rapallo (GE)<br />
Tel. +39 0185 64761 - Fax +39 0185 238391<br />
www.terre<strong>di</strong>portof<strong>in</strong>o.eu Email: <strong>in</strong>fo@terre<strong>di</strong>portof<strong>in</strong>o.eu
PAG. 2<br />
PAG. 8<br />
PAG. 18<br />
PAG. 24<br />
PAG. 28<br />
PAG. 32<br />
> EMOTIONS BY THE SEA<br />
> ARTISTIC SETTINGS<br />
> TRACES OF HISTORY<br />
> SCENTS AND FLAVOURS<br />
> SPORT ITINERARIES<br />
> A SEA OF GARDENS<br />
><br />
GENOVESATO<br />
SUMMARY
<strong>Genovesato</strong><br />
Prov<strong>in</strong>cia <strong>di</strong> <strong>Genova</strong><br />
Assessorato al <strong>Turismo</strong> MAR LIGURE
GENOVESATO<br />
MUSEUMS<br />
BUSALLA<br />
Ecomuseum of the Territory of the Alta Scrivia<br />
Valley<br />
Via XXV Aprile 17<br />
Tel 010 9640211 Com. Montana Alta Valle Scrivia<br />
Tel 010 9761014 Ente Parco Antola<br />
www.parks.it/parco.antola<br />
www.altavallescrivia.net<br />
CAMPOMORONE<br />
Puppet Museum<br />
Palazzo Balbi Via Gav<strong>in</strong>o 144<br />
Tel 010 722411/7224314 - Comune<br />
www.comune.campomorone.ge.it<br />
Civic Museum of Paleontology and M<strong>in</strong>eralogy<br />
Palazzo Balbi Via Gav<strong>in</strong>o 144<br />
Tel 010 7224314 - Comune<br />
www.comune.campomorone.ge.it<br />
Red Cross Museum<br />
Via P. Cavallieri 14 r Tel 010 782292<br />
www.cricampomorone.org<br />
CROCEFIESCHI<br />
Paleontological Museum<br />
Via alla Chiesa<br />
Tel 010 931215 - Comune<br />
GENOVA*<br />
Ansaldo Archive<br />
Villa Cattaneo dell'Olmo - Corso Perrone<br />
Tel 010 6558556<br />
www.fondazioneansaldo.it<br />
fondazione.ansaldo@ann.ansaldo.it<br />
Archive of the Pr<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g Museum<br />
Via G. Maggio 3<br />
Tel 010 5499643<br />
Lanterna Light house Museum<br />
Via Rampa della Lanterna - <strong>Genova</strong><br />
Tel 010 910001<br />
www.muvita.it lanterna@muvita.it<br />
MONTEBRUNO<br />
Sacred Museum of the Alta Trebbia Valley<br />
Via Santuario - Convento degli Agost<strong>in</strong>iani<br />
Tel 010 95029 Comune<br />
Museum of Bookb<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Via San Benedetto 2<br />
Tel 010 95029 Comune<br />
Museum of Peasant Culture of the Alta<br />
Trebbia Valley<br />
Via Santuario - Convento degli Agost<strong>in</strong>iani<br />
Tel 010 95029 Comune<br />
MONTOGGIO<br />
Museum of votive offer<strong>in</strong>gs<br />
Santuario S. Maria delle Tre Fontane<br />
Tel 010 938852 Santuario<br />
Historical Museum of the Alta Scrivia Valley<br />
<strong>in</strong> Tre Fontane<br />
Trattoria Ros<strong>in</strong> Via Prov<strong>in</strong>ciale 15<br />
Tel 010 938955 Trattoria Ros<strong>in</strong><br />
PROPATA<br />
Partisan Museum<br />
Via Centro 3<br />
Tel 010 945910<br />
RONDANINA<br />
Museum of Flora and Fauna <strong>in</strong> the Park<br />
of Mount Antola<br />
Piazza San Bartolomeo 2<br />
Tel 010 95854<br />
SAVIGNONE<br />
Archaeological Section of the Museum Alta<br />
Valle Scrivia<br />
San Bartolomeo c/o Scuole Elementari<br />
Tel 010 9360103 Comune <strong>di</strong> Savignone<br />
www.altavallescrivia.it/savignone/museo-sav.htm<br />
Museum of the ‘Alp<strong>in</strong>i’ (Alp<strong>in</strong>e troops)<br />
via A. Caprile 12<br />
Tel 010 936930 - 333 4799471<br />
www.alp<strong>in</strong>igenova.org<br />
museodeglialp<strong>in</strong>i@libero.it<br />
USCIO<br />
Museum of Clocks and Bells<br />
Salita Cannoni<br />
Tel 0185 919410<br />
www.treb<strong>in</strong>o.it<br />
treb<strong>in</strong>o@treb<strong>in</strong>o.it<br />
VALBREVENNA<br />
Ethnological Section of the Museum Alta Valle<br />
Scrivia<br />
Frazione Senarega<br />
Tel 010 9640211 Com. Montana Alta Valle Scrivia<br />
* Only the museums situated <strong>in</strong> the Prov<strong>in</strong>ce of Genoa are<br />
listed. For <strong>in</strong>formation on all the public and private<br />
museums of the City of Genoa we k<strong>in</strong>dly ask you to refer to<br />
the website www.museigenova.it. Open<strong>in</strong>g times and other<br />
<strong>in</strong>formation can be obta<strong>in</strong>ed by contact<strong>in</strong>g the museums<br />
<strong>di</strong>rectly or on the website www.cultura<strong>in</strong>liguria.it.<br />
PROVINCE OF GENOA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES (IAT)<br />
COMUNE DI GENOVA<br />
- Airport C. Colombo<br />
Tel e Fax +39 010 6015247<br />
genovaturismoaeroporto@comune.genova.it<br />
- Pr<strong>in</strong>cipe Railway Station<br />
Piazza Acquaverde<br />
Tel +39 010 2530671<br />
Tel e Fax +39 010 2462633<br />
genovaturismopr<strong>in</strong>cipe@comune.genova.it<br />
IAT ARENZANO<br />
Lungomare Kennedy<br />
Tel e Fax +39 010.9127581<br />
iat@comune.arenzano.ge.it<br />
IAT BOGLIASCO-GOLFO PARADISO<br />
Via Aurelia, 106<br />
Tel e Fax +39 010.3470429<br />
iat@prolocobogliasco.it<br />
IAT CAMOGLI<br />
Via XX Settembre, 33<br />
Tel +39 0185.771066<br />
Fax +39 0185.777111<br />
<strong>in</strong>fo@prolococamogli.it<br />
IAT CAMPOLIGURE VALLI STURA E ORBA<br />
Via della Giustizia, 5 - seasonal<br />
Tel e Fax +39 010.921055<br />
prolococampo@yahoo.it<br />
IAT CASELLA<br />
Stazione Ferroviaria - seasonal<br />
Tel +39 010.9682128<br />
iat@comune.casella.ge.it<br />
IAT CHIAVARI<br />
Corso Assarotti, 1<br />
Tel +39 0185.325198<br />
Fax +39 0185.324796<br />
iat.chiavari@prov<strong>in</strong>cia.genova.it<br />
GORRETO - Punto Informazioni<br />
Turistiche C/o Comune,<br />
Via Capoluogo - seasonal<br />
Tel e Fax +39 010.9543022<br />
<strong>in</strong>fo@gorreto.org<br />
IAT LAVAGNA<br />
Piazza Tor<strong>in</strong>o (Stazione F.S.)<br />
Tel +39 0185.395070<br />
Fax +39 0185.392442<br />
iat.lavagna@gmail.com<br />
IAT LAVAGNA CAVI<br />
Via Lombar<strong>di</strong>a, 53 - seasonal<br />
Tel e Fax +39 0185.395680<br />
iat.lavagna@gmail.com<br />
IAT MONEGLIA<br />
c/o Pro Loco - Corso L. Longhi, 32<br />
Tel e Fax +39 0185.490576<br />
<strong>in</strong>fo@prolocomoneglia.it<br />
IAT NE<br />
c/o Pro Loco -Piazza dei Mosto, 19<br />
Tel e Fax +39 0185.387022<br />
<strong>in</strong>fo@nevalgraveglia.it<br />
IAT PORTOFINO<br />
Via Roma, 35<br />
Tel e Fax +39 0185.269024<br />
iat.portof<strong>in</strong>o@prov<strong>in</strong>cia.genova.it<br />
IAT RAPALLO<br />
Lungomare Vittorio Veneto, 7<br />
Tel +39 0185.230346<br />
Fax +39 0185.63051<br />
iat.rapallo@prov<strong>in</strong>cia.genova.it<br />
IAT RECCO<br />
Via Ippolito d’Aste, 2 A<br />
Tel+39 0185.722440<br />
Fax +39 0185.721958<br />
iatpro@libero.it<br />
Prov<strong>in</strong>cia <strong>di</strong> <strong>Genova</strong><br />
Assessorato al <strong>Turismo</strong><br />
IAT REZZOAGLIO<br />
c/o Pro Loco, Via Roma - seasonal<br />
Tel +39 0185.870432<br />
proloco.rezzoaglio@aveto.it<br />
IAT RIVA TRIGOSO<br />
Via Ver<strong>di</strong>, 1 - seasonal<br />
Tel +39 0185.457011<br />
Fax +39 0185.459575<br />
IAT SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE<br />
Piazza Vittorio Veneto<br />
Tel +39 0185.287485<br />
Fax +39 0185.283034<br />
iat.santamargheritaligure@prov<strong>in</strong>cia.genova.it<br />
IAT SANTO STEFANO D’AVETO<br />
Piazza del Popolo, 6<br />
Tel +39 0185.88046<br />
Fax +39 0185.887007<br />
turismo@comune.santostefanodaveto.ge.it<br />
IAT SESTRI LEVANTE<br />
Piazza S. Antonio, 10<br />
Tel +39 0185.457011<br />
Fax +39 0185.459575<br />
iat.sestrilevante@prov<strong>in</strong>cia.genova.it<br />
IAT TORRIGLIA<br />
Via Nostra Signora della Provvidenza, 3<br />
Tel +39 010.944175<br />
Fax +39 010.9453007<br />
<strong>in</strong>fo@parcoantola.it<br />
IAT USCIO<br />
c/o Pro Loco - Via Vittorio Veneto 100<br />
Tel e Fax +39 0185.91101<br />
prolocouscio@libero.it<br />
IAT ZOAGLI<br />
Via L. Merello, 6 A- seasonal<br />
Tel e Fax +39 0185.259127<br />
iat.zoagli.ge@email.it<br />
PROVINCIA DI GENOVA - DIREZIONE 5, <strong>Turismo</strong> - Largo F. Cattanei 3 - <strong>Genova</strong> Quarto - Tel. +3901054991 www.prov<strong>in</strong>cia.genova.it