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Boating and Sailing.pdf - Moja ladja

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74<br />

Part 2: The Basics of Operation<br />

2. Pump up the fuel bulb (shown in the following figure), if there is one. Most outboards<br />

have fuel bulbs about the size of an oblong tennis ball placed in the fuel line,<br />

either in the motor well or in a compartment near the stern. Just follow the fuel line<br />

<strong>and</strong> you’ll find it. Squeeze the bulb until it’s firm. This means that there’s a solid<br />

charge of fuel from the bulb into the engine.<br />

The primer or fuel bulb is a<br />

small pumping device that<br />

pushes fuel into the carburetor<br />

when squeezed. It’s usually<br />

found within a foot or<br />

two of the motor.<br />

3. Make sure the drive gears are in neutral. On single-lever systems like most outboards<br />

<strong>and</strong> stern drives, this will be when the shifting lever is straight up. There’s a<br />

detent or slot in the shifter housing so that the throttle lever clicks as it goes into<br />

neutral. Wiggle the lever around until you feel this click. Most motors will not<br />

crank unless the gears are in the neutral position.<br />

4. On inboards <strong>and</strong> some performance boats, the throttle or fuel lever is separate from<br />

the shifting lever. The fuel lever has a red knob, the shifting lever a black knob.<br />

Advance the red knob slightly to start, but keep the black one centered for neutral.<br />

5. Prime or choke the motor if needed. On fuel-injected motors this won’t be necessary.<br />

Otherwise, push the choke or prime button. Sometimes it’s built into the ignition<br />

key <strong>and</strong> you prime by pushing in on the key as you turn it. Choke or prime as<br />

you crank the engine for about 5 to 10 seconds.<br />

6. Some motors start best if the throttle is advanced slightly. On single-lever controls,<br />

you do this without putting the motor into gear by pushing a lockout button on the<br />

throttle base <strong>and</strong> then advancing the throttle. Move it only an inch or so—don’t<br />

push it all the way forward or the motor will start at 5,000 rpms!<br />

7. Normally, the motor starts, or at least coughs, within the first 10 seconds. Once it<br />

coughs, there’s fuel in the cylinders—don’t prime or choke it again right away or<br />

you’ll flood it (that is, you’ll get an excessive amount of liquid fuel into the firing<br />

chamber <strong>and</strong> make it tough for the spark plugs to touch it off).<br />

8. Once the motor starts, you may have to give several short bursts of choke to keep it<br />

running, particularly on chilly mornings.<br />

9. After about 20 seconds, you can pull the throttle back to idle speed. The motor<br />

should now run normally. If it stumbles <strong>and</strong> quits after it’s been running a minute or<br />

two, don’t choke it again. Simply put it in neutral <strong>and</strong> restart it.

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