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Boating and Sailing.pdf - Moja ladja

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42<br />

Part 1: Getting Started in <strong>Boating</strong><br />

Boat Bytes<br />

Boat props turn at only<br />

about half the speed of the<br />

engine rpms due to gears<br />

where the propshaft meets<br />

the drive shaft. The 2:1<br />

gears cut the prop rotation speed<br />

but increase the torque or twisting<br />

force. More powerful<br />

engines sometimes have lower<br />

gear ratios of around 1.85:1,<br />

<strong>and</strong> some racing engines are<br />

direct 1:1 drive.<br />

This is also true in relation to the number of blades. A<br />

three-blade prop can be pitched a little higher than a<br />

four-blade prop used on the same boat/motor combination,<br />

because the four-blade has more gripping surface<br />

to “load” the motor.<br />

Propping is a science, <strong>and</strong> it’s best left to a dealer who<br />

has plenty of props to play with <strong>and</strong> is willing to do the<br />

job right for you. Particularly in performance boats, the<br />

wrong prop can not only cut into speed, but also make<br />

a given boat difficult or even downright dangerous to<br />

drive, while the h<strong>and</strong>ling problems may go away completely<br />

with the right prop.<br />

Bet You Didn’t Know<br />

How do you swap props? Props are held in place by a prop nut, which is sometimes<br />

secured by a cotter pin. To remove the prop, you first straighten the bent end of the cotter<br />

pin, <strong>and</strong> then remove it by inserting a flat screwdriver or punch into the rounded end<br />

<strong>and</strong> tapping lightly until it slides free.<br />

When you try to take off the prop nut, you’ll find that nut, prop, <strong>and</strong> prop shaft all turn<br />

happily together—there’s no resistance to allow you to torque off the nut.<br />

To secure things, place a pine 2 × 4 between one of the prop blades <strong>and</strong> the cavitation<br />

plate of the motor. This holds things in place so you can get the nut off. The nut<br />

secures a washer <strong>and</strong> a spacer—make sure to set them aside in the order they came<br />

off so you don’t get confused later.<br />

The prop should slide off easily once all the fasteners are removed. You may need to<br />

lightly tap the prop with a rubber hammer to get started, especially if it hasn’t been<br />

removed in a long time. The prop can’t be twisted off the shaft—it’s splined in place, so<br />

you have to pull straight out.<br />

Before you put on a new prop, rub a light coating of waterproof grease on the splines<br />

of the prop shaft. This will help the prop to come off more easily next time.<br />

Replace the spacer <strong>and</strong> washer, grease the nut, <strong>and</strong> reinstall it to torque specifications,<br />

again using the 2 × 4 to hold the prop in place. And don’t forget to use a new cotter<br />

pin, <strong>and</strong> only one made of stainless steel. Many a $400 prop has been lost due to use<br />

of an old 25¢ pin.

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