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Boating and Sailing.pdf - Moja ladja

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Chapter 21: Keeping Your Boat Shipshape<br />

Small shellfish are no problem to remove—they can be scrubbed away with a light chlorine<br />

solution (about a cup in a gallon of water) <strong>and</strong> a medium bristle brush. (Better wear<br />

rubber gloves if your h<strong>and</strong>s are not barnacle-tough.)<br />

If left until they become the size of a dime, barnacles become unbelievably difficult to get<br />

off. There are some gel-acid cleaners that do the job, but they’re so powerful they will<br />

also clean the skin right off any part of you they happen to contact—risky stuff for the<br />

amateur to h<strong>and</strong>le. Scraping <strong>and</strong> power-s<strong>and</strong>ing is the more common solution, <strong>and</strong> the<br />

s<strong>and</strong>ing knocks off the gel coat so you then have to paint the bottom. So clearly, it’s wise<br />

not to let the growth go past the initial stages. In warm weather, 10 days is about the max.<br />

For larger boats that must be left in the water, it’s a good idea to don a mask <strong>and</strong> fins <strong>and</strong><br />

go over the side to give the bottom a monthly scrubbing with a firm brush (do this in the<br />

summer). If you wait too long, the hull will have to be hauled out at considerable expense<br />

<strong>and</strong> scraped down.<br />

The easy way to avoid problems is not to leave your boat in the water for more than a few<br />

days at a time. Although the larval forms may latch on to your hull if it sits still for only a<br />

few hours, they quickly die <strong>and</strong> fall off if the boat is pulled out <strong>and</strong> allowed to dry.<br />

Paint Your Bottoms<br />

287<br />

Another solution, most common for large boats that have to be left in the water, is to use<br />

anti-fouling paint. This is a paint that contains elements toxic to barnacles <strong>and</strong> other<br />

marine organisms. The most commonly used anti-fouling paints include copper as the<br />

toxicant.<br />

There are leaching paints, in which the copper leaches through the paint but leaves the<br />

surface itself fairly intact, <strong>and</strong> ablative paints, which wear away in layers, revealing fresh<br />

copper as the top layers disappear.<br />

With either type of paint, a layer of gel-coat primer, applied after a thorough fine-grit<br />

s<strong>and</strong>ing, is usually needed to make the anti-fouling paint stick. Not all types are compatible<br />

with each other—check with your dealer or read the cans for advice.<br />

Take your checkbook with you when you go shopping for anti-fouling paint—it’s horrendously<br />

expensive compared to conventional paints. Prices of $75 to $125 per gallon are<br />

typical, <strong>and</strong> you need about a gallon to do the bottom of a typical 24-footer.<br />

Bottom-painting is definitely one of the nastier jobs in boat maintenance, <strong>and</strong> if you can<br />

afford it, you may want to have the boatyard do the job. But having the bottom of a large<br />

boat painted by a boatyard can be an expensive proposition—many hours of labor plus the<br />

cost of the materials add up. Shop around <strong>and</strong> get several estimates, in writing, before you<br />

make a choice. Be sure the estimate includes the cost of hauling your boat—lifting it out

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