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Boating and Sailing.pdf - Moja ladja

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134<br />

Part 2: The Basics of Operation<br />

These days, there are better ways. If you buy nylon in a marine store, they’ll probably cut<br />

it with an electric hot knife. The heat melts the nylon <strong>and</strong> instantly secures all str<strong>and</strong>s. If<br />

not, you can do it yourself. A soldering iron will do the<br />

Look Out!<br />

job neatly.<br />

Be very careful when<br />

melting nylon. It is extremely hot,<br />

<strong>and</strong> if it drips on your skin, it will<br />

burn you badly! Also, remember<br />

that nylon ignites easily—the<br />

drips can start a fire. It’s a job<br />

best done out of doors, <strong>and</strong> not<br />

aboard your boat.<br />

Boat Bytes<br />

When you have to cut a<br />

line <strong>and</strong> don’t have other<br />

means of securing the<br />

ends, plain old duct tape<br />

will do the job temporarily.<br />

Just take three tight wraps around<br />

the line <strong>and</strong> presto, it’s whipped.<br />

Coiling Lines<br />

This step is particularly important with lines that have a<br />

separate core <strong>and</strong> cover; with these, you may need to<br />

whip the ends with smaller line, <strong>and</strong> then cut them with<br />

the hot knife to seal everything together <strong>and</strong> prevent<br />

the core from creeping into or out of the cover.<br />

No soldering iron? If you’re careful, you can use a cigarette<br />

lighter or a c<strong>and</strong>le to burn the ends slightly until<br />

the nylon becomes liquid. As it cools, roll it between<br />

two pieces of 2 × 4 to make a rounded end. This gives a<br />

solid end on the line that will never unravel.<br />

There are also commercial whipping compounds or<br />

rope dips that act as a glue. You dip the ends of the rope<br />

in them, let it dry, <strong>and</strong> it secures the str<strong>and</strong>s. There’s<br />

also a heat-sealing tape with which you wrap the end,<br />

<strong>and</strong> then apply a flame; the tape shrinks <strong>and</strong> seals to<br />

form a permanent whipping. This is quick, relatively<br />

safe, <strong>and</strong> forms a dependable bond—carry some aboard.<br />

Take care of your lines every trip, <strong>and</strong> they’ll take care of you when you need them.<br />

The first rule is to never put a line away without coiling it. There’s a little trick to this<br />

with laid line. Braided line has less of a tendency to kink than laid line, <strong>and</strong> there’s no<br />

need to impart the twist as you coil it. It will lay in a fairly regular loop or sometimes in a<br />

figure eight, but these run out without tangles.<br />

You can’t simply pick up some line <strong>and</strong> make a bunch of loops over your h<strong>and</strong>. It won’t lie<br />

“fair” or flush, one coil exactly like the next, <strong>and</strong> this will lead to tangles when you use it.<br />

The trick to getting it flat is to give the line a little half-twist, to the right or clockwise,<br />

each time you go over the h<strong>and</strong> holding the coil. Make the coils about 18 inches in diameter,<br />

a comfortable h<strong>and</strong>ling size in most lines. To prevent kinks, make the coils in a<br />

clockwise direction.<br />

Once you’ve got it all laid in, secure the coils by taking a turn counterclockwise around<br />

them with the bitter end (the end you hold while making a knot, or the tag or cut end of

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