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Boating and Sailing.pdf - Moja ladja

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96<br />

Part 2: The Basics of Operation<br />

Securing Your Boat<br />

The best tie is a four-point suspension—two lines on the bow, two on the stern. The<br />

longer the line run, the less it restricts the rise <strong>and</strong> fall of the boat, which is why the lines<br />

are run to opposite cleats on the transom—that is, the line from the port side of the dock<br />

goes to the starboard cleat, <strong>and</strong> vice versa.<br />

With a long run, it’s possible to tighten down the lines securely, holding the boat in the<br />

slip so it doesn’t touch the pilings at any point, yet still has enough vertical movement to<br />

ride the tides.<br />

Secure your boat in a slip so<br />

that it stays clear of dock <strong>and</strong><br />

pilings on both high <strong>and</strong> low<br />

tides.<br />

Spring line<br />

Securing a boat in a U-slip<br />

Pilings<br />

Crossed stern lines<br />

Spring line<br />

(Allow enough slack<br />

for falling tides)<br />

Bow lines<br />

A single after spring line is often added in U-slips to keep the transom from getting under<br />

the dock. For long-term storage, most add a pair of spring lines amidships, running fore<br />

or aft, to hold the position longitudinally.<br />

Chafing Gear for Your Lines<br />

If the boat is to be left in the slip long-term (more than a week), <strong>and</strong> if it’s more than 20<br />

feet long, it’s a good idea to add chafing gear to the lines anywhere they pass through a<br />

metal chock or scrape across a dock edge.<br />

These are simply split lengths of old garden hose, or they can be the ubiquitous duct<br />

tape—anything to prevent the friction from weakening the line. (The best tape for this is<br />

a thick vinyl that won’t give out when exposed to rain <strong>and</strong> salt.)

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