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Boating and Sailing.pdf - Moja ladja

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Chapter 6: The Art <strong>and</strong> Science of Docking<br />

One problem that might arise is that the skipper sometimes can’t see the float as it comes<br />

“under” the bow, particularly in larger boats with lots of freeboard. So a crewperson<br />

st<strong>and</strong>s up front <strong>and</strong> guides him in—h<strong>and</strong> signals are easier than shouting.<br />

Provided the approach is accurate, the crewperson simply plucks up the mooring float, the<br />

boat is put into reverse to bring it to a halt, <strong>and</strong> then the pendant is brought aboard <strong>and</strong><br />

cleated off. If you miss the float, just go around again—it’s not going anywhere, <strong>and</strong> probably<br />

nobody is watching. Just don’t ask the crewperson to lunge at it, because everybody<br />

will watch a guy falling overboard.<br />

Be careful, though. If you see that the boat won’t stop quickly enough to prevent the<br />

crewperson from being pulled overboard if he hangs on to the mooring line, have him<br />

cast it off <strong>and</strong> try again. This can go from funny to dangerous very quickly because you’re<br />

traveling forward <strong>and</strong> the props are close to where the swimmer will fall.<br />

Tidal Tie-Ups<br />

Tides vary from a few inches in south Florida to more than 40 feet in Canada. If you tie<br />

your boat up close in an area that has a lot of drop between high <strong>and</strong> low tide, you may<br />

have it swinging in the air when the tide goes out.<br />

No kidding, I’ve seen it happen with rowboats <strong>and</strong> skiffs. They often turn over when the<br />

water leaves, dumping out life jackets, paddles, <strong>and</strong> whatever else is left aboard.<br />

Even worse, tying up too loosely may allow your boat to drift under the dock. When the<br />

tide comes back, the boat gets a hydraulic crush. The lifting force of water is amazing—it<br />

can crack the cowling of an outboard, smash a windshield, even crumple a cabin top.<br />

Obviously, tying up properly is critical for coastal boaters. (I’ll tell you more about how<br />

tides affect coastal boating in Chapter 16, “Mastering the Tides.”)<br />

Dock Lines<br />

You need at least four dock lines twice the length of the boat if you live in an area with<br />

maximum tides, while in moderate tide zones like south Florida the four lines should be<br />

about the length of the boat. You don’t use all this length very often, but you will need it<br />

sooner or later if you cruise a lot.<br />

The best dock lines are woven nylon, 3 /8 -inch or better. The larger the line, the stronger<br />

it is <strong>and</strong> the longer it lasts—<strong>and</strong> the easier it is on your h<strong>and</strong>s. But line that’s too big won’t<br />

fit the cleats of a smaller boat, <strong>and</strong> it costs a lot more than smaller stuff.<br />

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