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RUNNING<br />
THE GALES<br />
OF THE<br />
SOUTHERN<br />
OCEAN<br />
8 www.oystermarine.com<br />
By Fiona Campbell<br />
<strong>Oyster</strong> 55 Carelbi<br />
Fiona Campbell<br />
Christopher Smith and Fiona Campbell set off on their world<br />
circumnavigation from Marmaris in Turkey in the spring of 1998.<br />
They crossed the Atlantic with the ARC in 2000 and went through<br />
Panama to the Pacific arriving on May 1st 2001. Chris has sailed<br />
dinghies all of his life, and has owned a cruising yacht since his<br />
mid-twenties; sailing around the world has always been his dream.<br />
Fiona took to sailing for the first time when she met Chris almost<br />
five years ago, so is a debutante in time but not in distance!<br />
Hundreds of yachts each year sail what is<br />
now the well-trodden path from Panama<br />
to New Zealand through the beautiful<br />
Pacific islands of French Polynesia, the Cooks,<br />
Niue and Tonga. Some North Americans return<br />
via Tahiti, but only a handful brave the roaring<br />
forties to the Australs and Gambier. We had<br />
loved our short time in the Tuamotus so much in<br />
2001 that we were determined to return and<br />
since we had been seduced by descriptions of<br />
these southernmost of the French archipelagos,<br />
they were to be our first landfall.<br />
So it was that, at the end of April 2002, with<br />
Carelbi in great condition after five months of<br />
hard work, we held a 'Big Sniff' party at Whangarei Town Basin (we grade the severity of<br />
partings by the size and number of the sobs and sniffs), and set sail for Auckland to pick<br />
up our final crew member, Ken Russell, who was flying in from Australia to take a break<br />
from six years hard slog in the oil industry. The passage from New Zealand to the<br />
Gambier Archipelago is 3000 nautical miles and is well known for its challenging weather.<br />
Chris felt that we needed a minimum of four on board to cope with the expected bad<br />
conditions and long night passages, and we found our two other crew members through<br />
an ad in the local paper.<br />
One crew member, Peter Ansell, a New Zealander, was an 'old sea dog' and could turn<br />
his hand to anything on a boat, electrics, engines, woodwork, housework; Pete was in<br />
there almost before we knew it needed to be done. Before we left he had built in a herb<br />
garden container for us; fresh coriander, thyme, mint, basil and rosemary flourished in<br />
pots well secured against the worst the sea was to throw at us, and it did. His other chef<br />
d'oeuvre was to make 'mags' for us; these are 'multi-angle gravy stoppers', and consist<br />
of a round of wood covered in tasteful blue non-slip material, set at an angle of about 15<br />
degrees. When sailing to windward with your boat well heeled over, you place your plate<br />
on the 'mags' and, magically, your food is horizontal and no longer wishes to rush off the<br />
table onto the floor.