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1611 Install-Toyota Tundra Front Differential by Mike ... - Teddnet.com

1611 Install-Toyota Tundra Front Differential by Mike ... - Teddnet.com

1611 Install-Toyota Tundra Front Differential by Mike ... - Teddnet.com

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<strong>1611</strong> <strong>Install</strong>-<strong>Toyota</strong> <strong>Tundra</strong> <strong>Front</strong> <strong>Differential</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>Mike</strong> Donofrio<br />

The problem The solution<br />

The <strong>Toyota</strong> <strong>Tundra</strong> is great all-around truck but the front differential is<br />

considered undersized and weak for serious off-roading. When used in<br />

moderate to severe duty conditions it is only a matter of time before even the<br />

occasional <strong>Tundra</strong> enthusiast finds they that have no four wheel drive, followed<br />

<strong>by</strong> a diagnosis of shredded spider gears. Repairs are costly and replacing your<br />

original differential with another failure prone open differential is basically asking<br />

for trouble. If your differential is full of metal pieces you will likely need to rebuild<br />

it <strong>com</strong>pletely (bearings, seals, thrust washers, etc) If you only find one or two<br />

teeth in your next front differential oil change you have no time to lose! Order up<br />

a Powertrax Lock Right and upgrade to heavy duty today!<br />

These instructions are not meant to replace manufacturer's install instructions<br />

they are only meant as a high level overview to doing the installation specific to a<br />

<strong>Toyota</strong> 7.5 front differential on a <strong>Tundra</strong>. This differential is known to have been<br />

used in <strong>Tundra</strong>s, Sequoias, some Ta<strong>com</strong>as, and some 4Runners and generally<br />

look like this:


Before beginning to do the work you will need the following:<br />

• Vise or clamp table<br />

• LocTite Red and Blue<br />

• I prefer Sierra Gear and Axle brand 100% silicone as a gasket maker<br />

• Medium grease<br />

• 1.4 quarts 75w-90 gear oil<br />

• A sharp chisel and a very small screwdriver will be very helpful<br />

• Jackstands, safety glasses, <strong>com</strong>mon sense<br />

• Good set of wrenches, sockets, etc<br />

From <strong>Toyota</strong> you will need to buy:<br />

• 1pc 90521-29002 Ring, Hole Snap<br />

• 2pc 43425-04020 Ring, Drive Shaft Snap<br />

• 5pc 41222-35030 Plate, Ring Gear<br />

Jack vehicle and secure with jackstands.<br />

Remove wheels.<br />

Remove engine undercover (skidplate).<br />

Remove front diff fill plug (upper) then remove<br />

drain plug (lower) drain gear oil into suitable<br />

container for recycling. 10mm allan wrench.<br />

Remove lower ball joint bolts-4 each side (bolt<br />

shown exposed). 14 mm<br />

Matchmark and<br />

then disconnect<br />

front driveline at<br />

front differential<br />

pinion flange (4<br />

bolts). 14 mm


Disconnect plug for Automatic <strong>Differential</strong> Disconnect (ADD) and front diff<br />

breather (Not shown).<br />

X=Do not use allan wrench to remove cushion screw<br />

On rear of<br />

differential<br />

remove two<br />

bolts on front<br />

differential rear<br />

cushion. One<br />

facing up (A)<br />

and one facing<br />

down (B).<br />

17mm<br />

Firmly grasp rotor/caliper assembly and pull<br />

entire half shaft out of differential. Be careful<br />

not to damage CV joints. Repeat on other side.<br />

Align half shafts away from differential and be<br />

sure not to tear CV boots on exposed bolts.<br />

Begin to stabilize differential with transmission jack or have a friend hold it while<br />

<strong>com</strong>pleting next step. Use caution as diff will be almost <strong>com</strong>pletely removed and<br />

may fall causing injury. It weighs close to 100 lbs.<br />

Remove front differential cushion brackets-two<br />

bolts. Pic shown is with differential drop<br />

bracket-OEM design similar.<br />

Remove differential to bench<br />

Remove differential seal bolts.


Using chisel and hammer, pry open front diffworking<br />

your way around it.<br />

Using prybar,<br />

gently pry<br />

carrier<br />

assembly<br />

away from<br />

housing,<br />

again working<br />

your way<br />

around until it<br />

<strong>com</strong>es free.<br />

Clamp carrier assembly in clamp table or vise, being careful not to mar bearings.<br />

Using a chisel,<br />

tap lock plate<br />

tabs away<br />

from ring gear<br />

bolts then<br />

pound them<br />

flat to make<br />

way for a<br />

socket.<br />

Using 17mm six-sided socket remove ring gear.


Using a chisel, separate ring gear from carrier<br />

assembly, working your way around the ring<br />

gear.<br />

Once ring gear is removed, place in oven on<br />

cookie sheet at 225 degrees until ready to<br />

reinstall.<br />

Drill out metal deformation around pinion shaft<br />

retainer pin with 1/4” drill bit.<br />

Using a suitable tool, drive out retainer pin.


Remove<br />

pinion shaft<br />

and rotate<br />

gears so that<br />

spider gears<br />

fall away.<br />

Remove side<br />

gears and<br />

thrust washers<br />

and save<br />

washers.<br />

Using the old pinion, tap out stub shaft and<br />

remove remaining side gear.<br />

***Follow manufacturer's instructions for exact installation information***<br />

Assemble Lock Right coupler with original thrust<br />

washers apply a liberal amount of heavy grease<br />

to both sides. Then place these into carrier<br />

according to manufacturer's instructions.<br />

Apply grease<br />

to spacer and<br />

place inside of<br />

driver, use<br />

plenty of<br />

grease on slide<br />

pins and spring<br />

holes to keep<br />

pins flush<br />

inside of driver<br />

then place into<br />

the carrier.


Slide shear pin into opposite hole, then place<br />

dual spring assembly into each window. Be<br />

sure springs are seated. Repeat for each shear<br />

pin/spring set. <strong>Install</strong> pinion shaft making sure<br />

that spacers are clear of pinion shaft, then<br />

slide retainer pin into retainer pin hole.<br />

Use punch to deform hole and secure retainer<br />

pin.<br />

Remove ring gear from oven and drop onto carrier assembly, align holes <strong>by</strong><br />

starting a thread or two on ring gear bolts.<br />

Place ring<br />

gear lock<br />

plates over<br />

bolt holes,<br />

apply red<br />

LocTite to<br />

ring gear<br />

bolts, torque,<br />

then tap lock<br />

plates flush<br />

to bolt heads.<br />

Using a scraper, <strong>com</strong>pletely clean differential case mating surfaces to remove all<br />

old gasket material. Then clean with solvent such as brake cleaner.<br />

Place new hole snap ring onto end of stub<br />

shaft, place stub shaft into ADD collar<br />

assembly being sure to line up splines on<br />

collar with stub shaft.


Apply generous amount of grease to bearing<br />

race and gently tap until seated.<br />

Pack as much grease as possible into bearings and then place carrier assembly<br />

onto stub shaft which is exposed from ADD side of differential case. Tap with<br />

block of wood and hammer if necessary.<br />

Apply 1/4” bead of Sierra Gear and Axle<br />

Silicone around circumference of mating<br />

surface and around each bolt hole.<br />

Reinstallation procedure: Use blue LocTite on all bolts and torque to<br />

manufacturer's specifications.<br />

Apply a drop<br />

of blue<br />

LocTite to<br />

each<br />

differential<br />

case bolt and<br />

torque to<br />

spec.<br />

1. Place differential back under vehicle, aligning rear differential mounting<br />

cushion.<br />

2. Thread rear mounting cushion-upper bolt a few turns, then thread up lower<br />

bolt a few turns. Return to upper bolt and tighten; then tighten lower bolt.<br />

3. Bolt up front differential cushions-two long bolts<br />

4. Bolt up front differential pinion flange to front driveline<br />

5. Place new snap rings onto ends of axle shafts, then place gob of grease on<br />

each shaft end/snap ring<br />

6. Grasp rotor assembly and have a friend line up axle shafts into differential


case. Use a quick push to thrust axle shaft into differential until shaft is locked<br />

into place and no appreciable gap is detected between CV joint flange and<br />

differential case.<br />

7. Repeat other side.<br />

8. Place 4 bolts into each lower ball joint, LocTite and torque to spec<br />

9. Replace engine undercover (skidplate).<br />

10.Replace wheels and torque to spec.<br />

11.Remove from jackstands.<br />

12.Wait a few hours for silicone to cure then replace drain plug fill with1.4 quarts<br />

of gear oil until oil trickles from fill hole then replace fill plug.<br />

13.Take for a test drive and learn to drive your new Lock Right front end. The<br />

truck will handle differently than it did before so be sure to read all of the Lock<br />

Right owner's manual.<br />

14.Stomp and enjoy, but always be sure to tread lightly!<br />

A special thank you to the following:<br />

Derryl, Kimberly, the Sterling Family, and Momo.

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