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The Art And Architecture of Islamic Cairo

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46 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Art</strong> and <strong>Architecture</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Islamic</strong> <strong>Cairo</strong><br />

five to seven storeys high. Nasir i Khusraw describes houses <strong>of</strong> seven<br />

to fourteen storeys accommodating up to 350 people, but this was<br />

almost certainly an exaggeration. Some houses had terraced ro<strong>of</strong><br />

gardens with shrubs, orange trees and bananas, and he describes one<br />

which was irrigated by a bull turning a contraption lifting water.<br />

Nasir i Khusraw’s view <strong>of</strong> al-Qahira and Fustat was highly flattering,<br />

which may be due to a Shi’ite bias on his part (he became an Isma’ili<br />

missionary on his return to Balkh). Other contemporary writers are<br />

less favourable, commenting on the pestilential nature <strong>of</strong> both cities,<br />

the squalor, the poor quality <strong>of</strong> the water and lack <strong>of</strong> hygiene. <strong>The</strong><br />

northern location and higher elevation <strong>of</strong> al-Qahira was, however,<br />

slightly more salubrious.<br />

<strong>The</strong> original mud-brick walls <strong>of</strong> al-Qahira had crumbled<br />

by 1046 and a major reconstruction in brick and stone took<br />

place between 1087 and 1092 under the direction <strong>of</strong> Badr al-Jamali,<br />

vizier to the caliph al-Mustansir. Badr al-Jamali was originally<br />

an Armenian slave who had risen through the ranks to become<br />

governor <strong>of</strong> Damascus and Acre. In 1073 the caliph secretly invited<br />

him to <strong>Cairo</strong> to help restore order, following a period <strong>of</strong> plague and<br />

famine during which the country had fallen into a state <strong>of</strong> anarchy<br />

and destitution. By that time al-Mustansir had become a puppet<br />

ruler in the hands <strong>of</strong> his insubordinate Turkish and Berber troops<br />

and he needed outside help. When Badr al-Jamali arrived with his<br />

Armenian and Syrian bodyguard he ruthlessly rounded up and<br />

executed in one night all the leading palace <strong>of</strong>ficials and Turkish<br />

commanders. He was then given complete authority over the army,<br />

the missionaries and the bureaucracy, and became the de facto ruler<br />

<strong>of</strong> Egypt. <strong>The</strong> building programme <strong>of</strong> al-Jamali, which involved<br />

extending and strengthening al-Qahira’s walls, was synonymous<br />

with his reconstruction <strong>of</strong> the country.<br />

According to al-Maqrizi the gates <strong>of</strong> Bab al-Futuh, Bab al-Nasr<br />

(Gate <strong>of</strong> Conquest) and Bab Zuwaila were built by three Armenian<br />

Christians from Edessa in eastern Anatolia. This is plausible,<br />

because after the Seljuk conquest <strong>of</strong> that region many Armenians<br />

settled in <strong>Cairo</strong> and al-Jamali might have felt some obligation to<br />

find employment for his kinsmen. It also explains some <strong>of</strong> their<br />

Byzantine features, although the precise origins <strong>of</strong> its design<br />

cannot be located in the Edessa region. Edessa’s Byzantine towers<br />

and gates were once renowned, but the surviving fragments <strong>of</strong><br />

octagonal construction provide no obvious pointer to <strong>Cairo</strong>’s gates.<br />

Byzantine fortifications were regarded as the model for the<br />

development <strong>of</strong> western <strong>Islamic</strong> military architecture and the

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