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The Art And Architecture of Islamic Cairo

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Ziyada<br />

Prayer hall<br />

Sahn<br />

Lajin’s fountain<br />

Ziyada Ziyada<br />

Minaret<br />

top: <strong>The</strong> Ibn Tulun mosque.<br />

above: Plan <strong>of</strong> the Ibn Tulun mosque.<br />

Ziyada<br />

32 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Art</strong> and <strong>Architecture</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Islamic</strong> <strong>Cairo</strong><br />

Ibn Tulun’s mosque, built between 876 and 896, is an archi-<br />

tectural masterpiece. It is the largest, oldest, and in terms <strong>of</strong><br />

grandeur, dignity and monumental simplicity, the finest in Egypt.<br />

In contrast to Amr’s mosque it is remarkably well preserved, and<br />

with the exception <strong>of</strong> thirteenth-century restoration work, it<br />

retains the integrity and coherence <strong>of</strong> its original design. Its<br />

minaret is built <strong>of</strong> stone, but the bulk <strong>of</strong> the mosque is made <strong>of</strong> red<br />

brick faced with stucco, materials which distinguish it from most<br />

other mosques in <strong>Cairo</strong>. <strong>The</strong> use <strong>of</strong> brick piers rather than columns<br />

to support the arcades was not the result <strong>of</strong> Coptic influence, but a<br />

characteristic feature <strong>of</strong> Samarran architecture. Brick and stucco are<br />

the building materials <strong>of</strong> Mesopotamia and have ancient pre-<br />

<strong>Islamic</strong> roots. It is a hypostyle mosque with a sahn surrounded by<br />

four riwaqs, five aisles deep on the qibla side and two aisles deep on<br />

each <strong>of</strong> the other three sides. <strong>The</strong> sahn is square with an arcade <strong>of</strong><br />

thirteen pointed arches on each <strong>of</strong> the four sides, and the arcades<br />

<strong>of</strong> the prayer hall are made up <strong>of</strong> seventeen arches that run parallel<br />

to the qibla wall. <strong>The</strong> central mihrab aisle in the prayer hall is<br />

identical to the others, and the exterior façade is a continuous<br />

arcade with no distinguishing features such as a larger central aisle,<br />

dome or pishtaq (a l<strong>of</strong>ty screen framing an arch or portal).<br />

<strong>The</strong> mosque is surrounded by an outer perimeter wall creating<br />

an enclosure known as a ziyada, which isolated the mosque from<br />

the noise <strong>of</strong> everyday life. This is also a feature <strong>of</strong> the Samarran<br />

mosques, but Creswell suggests it may have more ancient origins in<br />

the Roman temenos (a wall containing a sacred enclosure). In<br />

Hellenistic times the streets <strong>of</strong> cities terminated at the gates <strong>of</strong> the<br />

temenos, and Creswell has suggested that in similar fashion the<br />

ninth-century streets <strong>of</strong> <strong>Cairo</strong> probably converged on the doors <strong>of</strong><br />

the ziyada. 27 Today the space around the imposing walls <strong>of</strong> the<br />

ziyada is clear, but originally the mosque was in a crowded urban<br />

centre. <strong>The</strong> deep canyon <strong>of</strong> space trapped between the imposing<br />

walls <strong>of</strong> the mosque and the ziyada produces an exaggerated depth<br />

and scale to the architectural perspective <strong>of</strong> this area, making it a<br />

worthy prelude to the immense space <strong>of</strong> the sahn. <strong>The</strong>re were wash-<br />

ing facilities in the ziyada, and the original fountain in the centre <strong>of</strong><br />

the sahn, with its gilded dome, marble columns and basin, served a<br />

purely ornamental role. <strong>The</strong> present fountain is the work <strong>of</strong> Sultan<br />

Lajin and dates from the thirteenth century.<br />

<strong>The</strong> stone minaret stands slightly <strong>of</strong>f centre between the<br />

north-west wall <strong>of</strong> the mosque and the ziyada wall. It is a four-<br />

storeyed structure with a square base and external staircase, winding

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