The Art And Architecture of Islamic Cairo

CHAPTER ONE
Umayyad and Tulunid
Architecture: Fustat and
al-Qata’i
14 The Art and Architecture of Islamic Cairo
FUSTAT
When the Arabs entered Alexandria they were overwhelmed by its
architectural splendour. Amr sent a letter full of hyperbole to Omar
stating that he had ‘captured a city from the description of which I
shall refrain. Suffice it to say that I have seized therein a city of 4,000
villas with 4,000 baths, 40,000 poll tax paying Jews and 400 places
of entertainment for royalty.’ 1 The figures are grossly overstated but
the letter expresses something of the opulence and brilliance of the
city reported in other Arab sources. It was the jewel in the crown of
conquest, and Amr, finding a number of deserted villas and palaces,
was tempted to make it his seat of government. Omar, however, had
different ideas, insisting that the capital of Egypt should be near
Babylon where communications with Medina were more reliable.
He is reported to have said that he did not want water between himself
and his Muslim army, acknowledging Alexandria’s isolation and
vulnerability during periods of flood. The Arabs had no navy and
the city was virtually unprotected on the seaward side.
Its orientation towards the Mediterranean was also symbolic
of its cultural roots in the Graeco-Roman world. Omar may well
have been concerned with preserving the cultural integrity of the
Arabs, and he did not want to see his army seduced by Alexandria’s
magnificence and luxury. So far these abstemious desert warriors
had been incorruptible, and it was not in Omar’s interests to allow
them to settle in the city or on land, as he needed their mobility and
strength for other campaigns. During the siege of Babylon they had
been renowned for the austerity of their ways. They were described