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The Art And Architecture of Islamic Cairo

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the beautiful mabkhara minarets he added to that building. His<br />

khanqah is built in the Jamaliyya district on the site <strong>of</strong> the Dar<br />

al-Wizara, the former residence <strong>of</strong> the Fatimid viziers. A relic <strong>of</strong> this<br />

period is a window in the mausoleum vestibule, said to have been<br />

brought from the palace <strong>of</strong> the Abbasid caliph in Baghdad and<br />

incorporated in the Dar al-Wizara during Fatimid times.<br />

<strong>The</strong> view <strong>of</strong> the khanqah from the street gives no indication <strong>of</strong><br />

the extent <strong>of</strong> the building complex behind, which originally consisted<br />

<strong>of</strong> a tomb, khanqah, ribat (hospice), ablutions court, kitchen and<br />

shops (only the tomb and parts <strong>of</strong> the khanqah have survived). Like<br />

the khanqah-madrasa <strong>of</strong> Amir Sanjar its exterior conveys only the pres-<br />

ence <strong>of</strong> a domed mausoleum and minaret. <strong>The</strong> entrance, with its large<br />

semi-circular arch <strong>of</strong> cushion voussoirs, is very impressive. It frames a<br />

marble recess with a muqarnas semi-dome and doors covered with<br />

bronze panels decorated with geometric patterns and inscriptions. <strong>The</strong><br />

sturdy minaret is a disciplined structure consisting <strong>of</strong> a rectangular<br />

tower base, supporting two cylindrical shafts and a ribbed dome. <strong>The</strong><br />

decoration on the minaret is sparing, consisting <strong>of</strong> fluted keel-arched<br />

niches on the first storey, narrow recesses on the second and an open<br />

pavilion with a ribbed helmet dome at the top. It is the clusters <strong>of</strong><br />

muqarnas that articulate the structure, particularly those on the first<br />

storey, which billow out, like a capital, supporting the balcony.<br />

Besides the Abbasid window, Baibars used a lot <strong>of</strong> recycled<br />

building material from the Dar al-Wazara and other palaces in the<br />

area, and according to al-Maqrizi, a cave under one such palace<br />

yielded a cornucopia <strong>of</strong> marble. 17 This material was lavished on the<br />

mausoleum, whereas the khanqah, in keeping with a Sufi institu-<br />

tion, was built more austerely. <strong>The</strong> dado panels in the mausoleum<br />

are black and white marble and the floor is paved with similar<br />

patterns. Decorated with polychrome marble and blind arcades, the<br />

mihrab is almost as large as that in Qala’un’s mausoleum. It is<br />

framed at the top with a wooden inscription that extends round<br />

the walls <strong>of</strong> the chamber above the dado. <strong>The</strong> tomb <strong>of</strong> Baibars is set<br />

within a wooden screen, but he was only interred there after<br />

persistent petitioning from the amirs. Following his execution he<br />

was buried ignominiously in a humble setting in the Southern<br />

Cemetery. Eventually al-Nasir Muhammad grudgingly accepted the<br />

amirs’ wishes, but he expressed his displeasure with Baibars by<br />

removing his titles from the tiraz inscription on the front <strong>of</strong> the<br />

khanqah. <strong>The</strong> internal plan <strong>of</strong> the khanqah is <strong>of</strong> the cruciform iwan<br />

type with cells overlooking the sahn arranged in three tiers. <strong>The</strong><br />

iwans are unequal in size and the largest, the vaulted qibla iwan,<br />

above: <strong>The</strong> plan <strong>of</strong> the khanqah <strong>of</strong> Sultan<br />

Baibars al-Jashankir.<br />

Qibla<br />

iwan<br />

Sahn <strong>of</strong> the<br />

khanqah<br />

Mausoleum<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Architecture</strong> <strong>of</strong> the Bahri Mamluks 149

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