The Art And Architecture of Islamic Cairo
The Art And Architecture of Islamic Cairo
The Art And Architecture of Islamic Cairo
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tough unyielding personality <strong>of</strong> its creator. It is small wonder that<br />
Napoleon found this a suitable building in which to garrison his<br />
troops. Little else remains <strong>of</strong> Baibars’ patronage in <strong>Cairo</strong> except<br />
the remnants <strong>of</strong> his madrasa (1262) next to the mausoleum <strong>of</strong> al-Salih<br />
in al-Mu’izz street. This was originally a large cruciform madrasa<br />
dedicated to the Shafi’i and Hanafi madhahib. All that is left is a<br />
section <strong>of</strong> a room in the south-west corner with some fine decoration<br />
over the window lintels. <strong>The</strong> lintels are decorated with tight hexagonal<br />
patterns, reminiscent <strong>of</strong> the best <strong>of</strong> Ayyubid woodwork, and between<br />
this and the lance-point decoration above the relieving arch are two<br />
confronted lions. <strong>The</strong>se heraldic beasts are synonymous with Baibars,<br />
and similar lions appear around the base <strong>of</strong> the Burg al-Siba (Lions’<br />
Tower) in the Citadel. Here they are more sculpturally realized, and<br />
they are all that remains <strong>of</strong> Baibars’ palace in the southern enclosure.<br />
His legacy, however, is still manifest in those walls and towers, such<br />
as the Bab al-Qulla, that now roughly replace those he originally built<br />
dividing the northern and southern enclosures.<br />
<strong>The</strong> lions <strong>of</strong> Baibars are symbolic <strong>of</strong> his nature and royalty,<br />
but cats <strong>of</strong> another kind shed a completely different light on his<br />
character. According to E. W. Lane, in his Account <strong>of</strong> the Manners and<br />
Customs <strong>of</strong> the Modern Egyptians (1836), Baibars bequeathed a<br />
garden for the benefit <strong>of</strong> destitute cats:<br />
<strong>The</strong> sultan Ez-Zahir Beybars bequeathed a garden,<br />
which is called ‘gheyt el-kuttah’ (or the garden <strong>of</strong><br />
the cat), near his mosque, in the north <strong>of</strong> <strong>Cairo</strong>, for<br />
the benefit <strong>of</strong> the cats: but this garden has been sold<br />
over and over again, by the trustees and purchasers:<br />
the former sold on pretence <strong>of</strong> it being too much<br />
out <strong>of</strong> order to be rendered productive, except at a<br />
considerable expense; and it now produces only a<br />
‘hekre’ (or quit-rent) <strong>of</strong> fifteen piastres a year, to be<br />
applied to the maintenance <strong>of</strong> destitute cats. Almost<br />
the whole expense <strong>of</strong> their support, has in consequence,<br />
fallen on the Kadee, who, by reason <strong>of</strong> his<br />
<strong>of</strong>fice, is the guardian <strong>of</strong> this and all other charitable<br />
and pious legacies, and must suffer for the<br />
neglect <strong>of</strong> his predecessors. Latterly, however, the<br />
feeding <strong>of</strong> the cats has been inadequately performed.<br />
Many people in <strong>Cairo</strong>, when they want to<br />
get rid <strong>of</strong> a cat, send or take it to the Kadee’s house,<br />
and let it loose in the great court. 6<br />
above: Lion at the base <strong>of</strong> Burg al-Siba.<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Architecture</strong> <strong>of</strong> the Bahri Mamluks 129