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The Art And Architecture of Islamic Cairo

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tough unyielding personality <strong>of</strong> its creator. It is small wonder that<br />

Napoleon found this a suitable building in which to garrison his<br />

troops. Little else remains <strong>of</strong> Baibars’ patronage in <strong>Cairo</strong> except<br />

the remnants <strong>of</strong> his madrasa (1262) next to the mausoleum <strong>of</strong> al-Salih<br />

in al-Mu’izz street. This was originally a large cruciform madrasa<br />

dedicated to the Shafi’i and Hanafi madhahib. All that is left is a<br />

section <strong>of</strong> a room in the south-west corner with some fine decoration<br />

over the window lintels. <strong>The</strong> lintels are decorated with tight hexagonal<br />

patterns, reminiscent <strong>of</strong> the best <strong>of</strong> Ayyubid woodwork, and between<br />

this and the lance-point decoration above the relieving arch are two<br />

confronted lions. <strong>The</strong>se heraldic beasts are synonymous with Baibars,<br />

and similar lions appear around the base <strong>of</strong> the Burg al-Siba (Lions’<br />

Tower) in the Citadel. Here they are more sculpturally realized, and<br />

they are all that remains <strong>of</strong> Baibars’ palace in the southern enclosure.<br />

His legacy, however, is still manifest in those walls and towers, such<br />

as the Bab al-Qulla, that now roughly replace those he originally built<br />

dividing the northern and southern enclosures.<br />

<strong>The</strong> lions <strong>of</strong> Baibars are symbolic <strong>of</strong> his nature and royalty,<br />

but cats <strong>of</strong> another kind shed a completely different light on his<br />

character. According to E. W. Lane, in his Account <strong>of</strong> the Manners and<br />

Customs <strong>of</strong> the Modern Egyptians (1836), Baibars bequeathed a<br />

garden for the benefit <strong>of</strong> destitute cats:<br />

<strong>The</strong> sultan Ez-Zahir Beybars bequeathed a garden,<br />

which is called ‘gheyt el-kuttah’ (or the garden <strong>of</strong><br />

the cat), near his mosque, in the north <strong>of</strong> <strong>Cairo</strong>, for<br />

the benefit <strong>of</strong> the cats: but this garden has been sold<br />

over and over again, by the trustees and purchasers:<br />

the former sold on pretence <strong>of</strong> it being too much<br />

out <strong>of</strong> order to be rendered productive, except at a<br />

considerable expense; and it now produces only a<br />

‘hekre’ (or quit-rent) <strong>of</strong> fifteen piastres a year, to be<br />

applied to the maintenance <strong>of</strong> destitute cats. Almost<br />

the whole expense <strong>of</strong> their support, has in consequence,<br />

fallen on the Kadee, who, by reason <strong>of</strong> his<br />

<strong>of</strong>fice, is the guardian <strong>of</strong> this and all other charitable<br />

and pious legacies, and must suffer for the<br />

neglect <strong>of</strong> his predecessors. Latterly, however, the<br />

feeding <strong>of</strong> the cats has been inadequately performed.<br />

Many people in <strong>Cairo</strong>, when they want to<br />

get rid <strong>of</strong> a cat, send or take it to the Kadee’s house,<br />

and let it loose in the great court. 6<br />

above: Lion at the base <strong>of</strong> Burg al-Siba.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Architecture</strong> <strong>of</strong> the Bahri Mamluks 129

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