Craig yr Eglwys: Plynlimon Area Mini-Guide - The Climbers' Club

By Doug Kerr
Craig yr Eglwys: Plynlimon Area
Mini-Guide
Introduction
Approach
The Routes
First Ascents +Graded List

Craig yr Eglwys
Introduction
This mini-guide details the recently developed crag of Craig yr Eglwys which is
approximately one and a half miles to the north east of the summit of Pen Pumlumon Fawr.
This crag is located at the more accessible, northern end, of Cwm Gwerin and is very close
to the well documented Hengwmannedd (Plynlimon) bouldering area.
Approach from Aberystwyth/Llangurig
Leave the A44 at Ponterwyd following the sign for Nant y Moch reservoir. Follow this road
for 3.6 miles to a right turn (away from the Dam) along the eastern edge of the reservoir to
reach Maesnant, OS reference 774 881. At this point the road ends and turns into a track.
Park here,taking care not to block the gates. It is also possible to reach this point from
Talybont on the A487 (the Machynlleth to Aberystwyth road).
Pass through the right hand gate and follow the track for 1 mile. Then, just after crossing a
stream, turn right into another valley heading past a small plantation of conifers and the
bouldering area and Craig yr Eglwys are now visible in the distance. Follow the vague track
along the right bank of the river (Afon Hengwm) for 1 mile to reach the ruined farmhouse of
Hengwmannedd and the bouldering area is just beyond at O.S. reference 797 893. This
approach takes 45 minutes from the car. The second section of track is invariably boggy and
wellington boots are recommended to keep the feet and the spirits dry. An alternative and
sometimes drier approach is to follow the path above the left hand (north) side of the river.
Craig yr Eglwys is then easily reached from the bouldering area, see details below.
Acknowledgements: Thanks to the following for
their help: Chris Gilbert, Dean Scott, Pete Stacey,
Terry Taylor, Pete Trickey, Dave Williams and Dan
Harris.
This mini-guide has been produced by Doug Kerr.
This is edition 01 (May 2012). Please send your
feedback and comments :dougkerr5@hotmail.com
© Doug Kerr
This is a remote spot. There is no
signal for mobile ‘phones unless
you are on very high ground such
as the summit of Pumlumon.
Page 1

Craig yr Eglwys
Craig yr Eglwys (Church Rock) with its distinctive curved syncline lies just to the north east of the
Hengwmannedd (Plynlimon) bouldering area. This is a good little crag which offers a number of short, action
packed routes on great rock.
Although the various buttresses/tiers are rather broken and separated by some vegetated and broken rock, all
of the routes are worthwhile. The crag has a pleasant and open aspect, receiving all of the available sunshine
from mid-morning and onwards. It dries quite quickly after rain and does not suffer from any significant
seepage. Climbing is possible here throughout the year and the crag is a good option for dry/sunny winter
days.
Approach: From the Hengwmannedd (Plynlimon) bouldering area, cross the stream (Afon Gwerin) before
striking directly up the hillside/scree to the section of crag of your choice. Allow approximately 15 minutes from
the bouldering area.
The crag is composed of
three tiers and the
routes are described
from LEFT to RIGHT:
1 Left Hand Area
2 Middle Area
3 Upper Area Left
4 Upper Area Middle
5 Right Hand Area
6 Lower Wall
© Doug Kerr
Craig yr Eglwys
OS Reference 803 895
Time from parking area to crag 60 minutes
Crag aspect South/South West
Crag altitude 480 metres
Sun on crag AM & onwards
Seepage Very little
Average route length 9 metres
Number of routes 35
Range of Grades D – E3
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Craig yr Eglwys
© Doug Kerr
Page 3

Craig yr Eglwys
1 Odd One Out 9m HS 4b
The short slab, overlap and rightwards up the final slab. Stake
belays.
2 Jockey Full of Bourbon 10m E3 6a *
A bumpy ride! Use small holds on the face and assistance from the
arête to reach the break (bold). Gain the break above and finish as
for the next route.
3 A Question Of Sport 10m VS 4c **
Cheeky bridging gains a ladder of jugs leading up to and through
the overlap. Finish up the short slab. Lovely climbing. Stake belays.
4 One Hundred Years Of Solitude 12m E3 6a *
A demanding sequence of moves through the overlap which may
be harder for the short. Stake belays.
5 The Weakest Link 10m S 4a
The rightwards trending flake crack followed by more broken rock
above.
© Doug Kerr
6 Play Your Cards Right 10m HS 4b
The upper groove has an awkward start.
7 Wipeout 9m VS 4c
The crack with some help from the flake on the left.
8 Celebrity Squares 9m HS 4b *
The right hand corner has good climbing.
9 University Challenge 10m HVS 5b **
The crack/flake provides excellent, strenuous climbing which is
well protected. Thread runner in-situ. Can also be started from the
right which although slightly easier is still a starter for ten.
10 Take Your Pick 10m HS 4b
The scruffy crack has a couple of interesting moves.
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Craig yr Eglwys
1 The Golden Shot 7m HS 4b
The left side of the wall has good holds. Finish just right of the
upper crack.
2 Bullseye 7m HVS 4c *
The shallow hanging groove. Nice moves, good rock but not much
gear.
3 Blockbusters 9m VS 4c *
Gain the small ledge either direct or from the crack on the right
(both tricky!). Follow the bubbly wall to finish on the leaning block
(thread runner in-situ).
© Doug Kerr
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Craig yr Eglwys
1 Top Of The Form 10m D
The slanting groove followed by the cracked upper wall.
2 It’s a Knockout 9m HVS 5b
Move left as soon as possible to gain the twin cracks. A
tough pull through the overlap gains easier ground.
3 Bognor or Bust 9m S 4b
The initial groove leads to a ledge. Jam or layback the upper
crack and finish direct up a short wall above the crevasse.
The shallow groove/crack on the right provides an alternative
approach to the upper crack at S 4b.
Upper Area: Middle
4 3-2-1 9m VD
Gain the crack via the groove below.
5 Catchphrase 10m VD
The groove, twin crack and slab above.
© Doug Kerr
6 Call My Bluff 9m HVS 5b *
Gain and climb the thin crack via the groove below. There is a
very wobbly (but secure) block at the top of the crack.
7 Just a Minute 9m HVS 5a **
Lovely climbing up the centre of the wall. From the apex of the
wall rock over leftwards onto the slab to finish.
8 Pointless 10m HS 4b
The rising break has a couple of interesting moves.
9 The Cryptic Factor 9m HVS 5a *
The hanging arête. The groove on the right provides initial
protection.
10 Take It or Leave It 9m VD
The right hand groove followed by the left edge of the ramp
above (only the lower section is visible on the topo).
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Craig yr Eglwys
1 Countdown 9m E3 5c **
Gain the undercut wall, peg runner, and make hard moves up and
slightly left, peg runner, to finish steeply on good holds. Excellent. It
can also be started from the left.
2 Big Break 10m VS 4c *
Good climbing which is well protected but a bit dirty.
3 Jeopardy 10m E3 5c **
Tricky moves lead leftwards through the overlap with assistance
from the left arête. The upper slab is delicate. A runner, placed in
the crack up on the right, protects the traverse. Super.
4 Through The Keyhole 8m VD. A poor route up the crack above the grass tongue.
5 Ask The Family 8m VS 4b
The shallow hanging groove is bold.
© Doug Kerr
6 Distraction 6m VD
A couple of layaway moves gain easy ground.
7 Twenty Questions 6m VD
Bridge the short groove to reach a crack and finish direct.
The lower wall is prone to dampness and has steep slippery grass at its base. A belay
is advised at the bottom of the following routes and a belay stake is in place at the top
(about 9 metres back from the cliff top).
1 The Generation Game 7m VS 4c
Good wires above half height.
2 Treasure Hunt 7m E2 5b *
The centre of the wall with fingery moves up and rightwards
from a small runner slot. Nice climbing but don’t fall off!
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Craig yr Eglwys
This rather broken buttress is not pictured on the overall topo but can be found several
hundred metres to the right of Lower Wall. The best approach is up the scree slope from
directly below.
1 You Bet! 8m S
The left edge of the slab.
2 Take Me Out 10m HVS 5b *
An exciting and hard finish over the bulge to gain the short
hanging slab. This route and the next route can be interlinked via
a hand traverse along the hanging flake.
3 Winter Wipeout 9m D
The wide crack.
© Doug Kerr
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First Ascent Details + Graded List
11/11/11 Bullseye Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr solo
24/11/11 Top Of The Form Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr solo
05/12/11 Just A Minute Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Chris Gilbert
05/12/11 Call My Bluff Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Chris Gilbert
05/12/11 Catchphrase Craig yr Eglwys Chris Gilbert, Doug Kerr
05/12/11 Take It or Leave It Craig yr Eglwys Chris Gilbert solo
05/12/11 Pointless Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Chris Gilbert
05/12/11 It’s a Knockout Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr unseconded
06/12/11 Bognor or Bust Craig yr Eglwys Chris Gilbert, Doug Kerr
The variation start was added by Doug Kerr, solo, on 26/02/12
02/01/12 3-2-1 Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr solo
07/02/12 Ask The Family Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr solo
07/02/12 Through The Keyhole Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr solo
08/03/12 A Question Of Sport Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Dean Scott
08/03/12 Odd One Out Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Dean Scott
08/03/12 University Challenge Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Dean Scott
Direct start Doug Kerr, Chris Gilbert 27/03/12
08/03/12 Blockbusters Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Dean Scott
08/03/12 The Golden Shot Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Dean Scott
22/03/12 Take Your Pick Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Dean Scott
22/03/12 Treasure Hunt Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Dean Scott
27/03/12 Celebrity Squares Craig yr Eglwys Chris Gilbert, Doug Kerr
27/03/12 Wipeout Craig yr Eglwys Chris Gilbert, Doug Kerr
27/03/12 Big Break Craig yr Eglwys Chris Gilbert, Doug Kerr
05/04/12 Take Me Out Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Pete Stacey
05/04/12 Winter Wipeout Craig yr Eglwys Pete Stacey, Doug Kerr
05/04/12 You Bet! Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Pete Stacey
24/04/12 The Weakest Link Craig yr Eglwys Terry Taylor, Doug Kerr,
Dave Williams
24/04/12 The Cryptic Factor Craig yr Eglwys Terry Taylor, Dave Williams,
Doug Kerr
24/04/12 Jockey Full of Bourbon Craig yr Eglwys Terry Taylor unseconded
24/04/12 The Generation Game Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Terry Taylor
(both led)
18/05/12 Play Your Cards Right Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Dave Williams
22/05/12 Countdown Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Pete Trickey
By the left hand start and after top roping. Climbed direct by Doug Kerr, Dave
Williams on 28/05/12
© Doug Kerr
22/05/12 Twenty Questions Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr, Pete Trickey
28/05/12 Distraction Craig yr Eglwys Doug Kerr solo
28/05/12 Jeopardy
Craig yr Eglwys Pete Trickey, Doug Kerr,
After top roping
Dave Williams
01/06/12 One Hundred Years Of Craig yr Eglwys Pete Trickey, Doug Kerr
Solitude
Graded List
Jockey Full of Bourbon E3 6a *
One Hundred Years Of Solitude E3 6a *
Countdown E3 5c **
Jeopardy E3 5c **
Treasure Hunt E2 5b *
Take Me Out HVS 5b *
It’s a Knockout HVS 5b
Call My Bluff HVS 5b *
University Challenge HVS 5b **
Just A Minute HVS 5a **
The Cryptic Factor HVS 5a *
Bullseye HVS 4c *
Blockbusters VS 4c *
The Generation Game VS 4c
Wipeout VS 4c
Big Break VS 4c *
A Question Of Sport VS 4c **
Play Your Cards Right HS 4b
Celebrity Squares HS 4b *
The Golden Shot HS 4b
Bognor or Bust S 4b
The Weakest Link S 4a
Catchphrase VD
Winter Wipeout D
Top Of The Form D
British Mountaineering Council (BMC) Participation Statement: The BMC recognise that climbing, hillwalking and mountaineering are
activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of, and accept, these risks, and be
responsible for their own actions and involvement. Climbers using this information do so at their own risk.
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