the insider's guide to plymouth's greatest dives - Plymouth Sound ...
the insider's guide to plymouth's greatest dives - Plymouth Sound ...
the insider's guide to plymouth's greatest dives - Plymouth Sound ...
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SOUNDING OFF<br />
THE INSIDER’S GUIDE<br />
TO PLYMOUTH’S<br />
GREATEST DIVES<br />
Everyone has <strong>the</strong>ir own idea about <strong>the</strong> perfect local dive site, so we asked<br />
members of <strong>Plymouth</strong> <strong>Sound</strong> BSAC <strong>to</strong> nominate <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>to</strong>p ten. Interviews<br />
and pho<strong>to</strong>graphs by Neil Hope<br />
PERSIER: 50°17.115’N, 03°58.138’W<br />
Nominated by: Bob Moore, 71, BSAC advanced diver<br />
The Belgian steamer Persier came <strong>to</strong> grief on 11<br />
February 1945. It was 6km from <strong>the</strong> Eddys<strong>to</strong>ne,<br />
travelling as part of a convoy, when a <strong>to</strong>rpedo struck<br />
her on <strong>the</strong> port side. Located midway between<br />
<strong>Plymouth</strong> and Salcombe, <strong>the</strong> Persier can be dived at any tide, with<br />
only a negligible current present.<br />
Owned by <strong>the</strong> club, <strong>the</strong> wreck is one of <strong>the</strong> most popular sites<br />
among members, among <strong>the</strong>m Bob Moore, who has completed<br />
about 50 <strong>dives</strong> on <strong>the</strong> Persier in <strong>the</strong> 12 years he’s been diving. ‘It’s<br />
pretty much intact with big boilers and a big driveshaft tunnel that<br />
you can easily swim through,’ he says. ‘Down at <strong>the</strong> stern, <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are conger eels. Schools of bib and pollack populate <strong>the</strong> wreck,<br />
along with plumose anemone, dead men’s fingers and sea fans.<br />
The wreck is teeming with life, and <strong>the</strong>re’s always something new<br />
<strong>to</strong> see even after years of diving here.’<br />
STEADY EDDY: <strong>the</strong> lighthouse<br />
at <strong>the</strong> Eddys<strong>to</strong>ne stands sentinel<br />
outside <strong>Plymouth</strong><br />
www.divemagazine.co.uk<br />
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HAND DEEPS: 50°12.580’N, 04°20.400’W<br />
EDDYSTONE REEF: 50°10.750’N, 04°15.950’W<br />
Nominated by: Debbie Bauckham, 47, BSAC dive leader<br />
Although two separate <strong>dives</strong>, both are reefs and offer similar diving<br />
experiences. Due <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> distance from shore and <strong>the</strong>ir proximity <strong>to</strong> one<br />
ano<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong>y are often combined on <strong>the</strong> same trip.<br />
The Eddys<strong>to</strong>ne lighthouse is about 19km south of <strong>Plymouth</strong> <strong>Sound</strong><br />
and offers a variety of diving, from <strong>the</strong> shallow kelp-covered gullies on <strong>the</strong> north side<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> rocky reefs on <strong>the</strong> south, where drop-offs reach depths of around 40m.<br />
Debbie Bauckham enjoys wrecks for <strong>the</strong> marine life <strong>the</strong>y attract, but prefers <strong>the</strong><br />
attractions of <strong>the</strong>se overtly scenic <strong>dives</strong>. ‘The Eddys<strong>to</strong>ne is great for both novice and<br />
experienced divers with its fantastic life and rock formations,’ she says. ‘There are<br />
schools of bass and pollack with plenty of crustaceans, and <strong>the</strong> pink sea fans seem<br />
in far better condition than those on <strong>the</strong> more-often dived sites.’<br />
Hand Deeps is a kelp-covered pinnacle sitting some 10m below <strong>the</strong> surface, but<br />
its rocky terrain plunges down <strong>to</strong> more than 50m. ‘There are some fantastic rock<br />
formations covered in jewel anemones, and <strong>the</strong> rock face is quite sheer in some<br />
places,’ says Bauckham. ‘There’s also no freshwater run-off from land out <strong>the</strong>re,<br />
which can give really good visibility.’ Both sites can be dived at any time during<br />
neap tides, but slack water is advised during springs; it falls two and a half hours<br />
after high and low Devonport.<br />
STOKE POINT: 50°17.24’N, 04°01.35’W<br />
Nominated by: Keith Hiscock, 60, advanced diver<br />
Located beyond <strong>the</strong> Mews<strong>to</strong>ne <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> east of <strong>Plymouth</strong> <strong>Sound</strong>, S<strong>to</strong>ke<br />
Point’s rocky headland offers shelter from <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rly winds that can<br />
sometimes curtail diving at o<strong>the</strong>r more exposed sites.<br />
With a gradual incline on<strong>to</strong> a sand and rock sea bed, bot<strong>to</strong>ming out<br />
at 33m, it provides an excellent habitat for sea squirts, sponges and anemones, with<br />
<strong>the</strong> occasional thornback ray sighting, <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> delight of marine biologist Keith Hiscock:<br />
‘The light sandy sea bed allows me, as an underwater pho<strong>to</strong>grapher, <strong>to</strong> get that nice<br />
mix of natural and artificial light, which is important when recording <strong>the</strong> many species<br />
in <strong>the</strong> area.’<br />
Slack water occurs midway between high and low water at Devonport. If you prefer,<br />
a high-water drift dive will let you explore <strong>the</strong> site with <strong>the</strong> minimum of effort. ‘There’s<br />
<strong>the</strong> opportunity <strong>to</strong> get some good lengthy bot<strong>to</strong>m time at <strong>the</strong> depths on offer,’ Hiscock<br />
adds. ‘I find <strong>the</strong> visibility here, east of <strong>Plymouth</strong>, is often better than <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> west,<br />
which can sometimes be affected by <strong>the</strong> proximity of <strong>the</strong> rivers Plym and Tamar.’<br />
www.divemagazine.co.uk<br />
TAKE MY HAND: a diver pho<strong>to</strong>graphs <strong>the</strong> rock<br />
face at Hand Deeps<br />
MAINE: 50°12.820’N,<br />
03°51.045’W<br />
Nominated by:<br />
Lynne Bracegirdle,<br />
54, dive leader<br />
After a <strong>to</strong>rpedo strike <strong>to</strong> its<br />
port side, <strong>the</strong> 3,600-<strong>to</strong>nne<br />
steamship Maine came <strong>to</strong><br />
rest less than 2km off Bolt Head where it<br />
now sits upright on a white sandy sea bed,<br />
<strong>the</strong> deck at 22m with <strong>the</strong> stern at 34m.<br />
Dive leader Lynne Bracegirdle describes<br />
<strong>the</strong> Maine: ‘There’s good water clarity and<br />
it’s reasonably intact, apart from amidships<br />
where it has collapsed. The fore and aft<br />
holds are filled with fish. There seems <strong>to</strong><br />
be different fish here <strong>to</strong> elsewhere – a lot<br />
of <strong>to</strong>mpot blennies and schools of bib, with<br />
lobsters, crabs, scallops and an old conger<br />
at <strong>the</strong> bow.’<br />
First dived in 1961 by Torbay BSAC –<br />
who purchased <strong>the</strong> wreck for £100 – <strong>the</strong><br />
Maine is a slack-water dive due <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
strong current. At springs, it should be<br />
dived two hours after high water or two<br />
and a half hours after low water.
JAMES EAGAN LAYNE:<br />
50°19.609’N, 04°14.720’W<br />
Nominated by: Mark Prior, 53,<br />
advanced diver<br />
One of <strong>the</strong> UK’s best-known<br />
wrecks, <strong>the</strong> James Eagan<br />
Layne was one of 2,700<br />
Liberty ships constructed<br />
during <strong>the</strong> Second World War. After it was<br />
holed by a <strong>to</strong>rpedo off Devon’s West Rutts,<br />
an attempt was made <strong>to</strong> beach <strong>the</strong> stricken<br />
vessel. But just over a kilometre off Rame<br />
Head, it became clear nothing could be done<br />
<strong>to</strong> keep her afloat and, on 21 March 1945,<br />
it sank <strong>to</strong> its final resting place.<br />
Mark Prior has dived it many times. He<br />
says: ‘She’s obviously not <strong>the</strong> wreck she once<br />
was due <strong>to</strong> her age and gradual collapse,<br />
but she is still full of atmosphere.’ Diving is<br />
possible at all states of tide, and with <strong>the</strong><br />
buoyed bow at 6m, it makes an ideal place<br />
for initial entry and for safety s<strong>to</strong>ps on ascent.<br />
The deepest part of <strong>the</strong> wreck is 24m and<br />
safe penetration is possible, although caution<br />
is advised as <strong>the</strong>re are loose or sharp girders<br />
and plates. Despite <strong>the</strong> ravages of time, <strong>the</strong><br />
James Eagan Layne is still a haven for<br />
marine life: <strong>the</strong> bow is covered in plumose<br />
anemones, large wrasse are plentiful, and <strong>the</strong><br />
stern, found southwest of <strong>the</strong> main wreck, is<br />
home <strong>to</strong> schools of pollack.<br />
HILSEA POINT ROCK: 50°17.305’N, 04°02.646’W<br />
Nominated by: Jeremy Clark, 46, dive leader<br />
Hilsea Point Rock is a popular scenic dive suitable for all grades of diver.<br />
While slack water gives optimum conditions, a drift dive is possible after<br />
half tide for <strong>the</strong> more experienced. Located south of <strong>the</strong> old coastguard<br />
lookout hut on <strong>the</strong> cliff face, east of <strong>the</strong> point itself, <strong>the</strong> rock rises just a<br />
few metres from <strong>the</strong> surface and descends over a broken rocky sea bed <strong>to</strong> 25m.<br />
A narrow canyon – wide enough for a diver <strong>to</strong> swim through – offers sightings of<br />
cup corals, jewel anemones and sponges, very much <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> liking of Jeremy Clark.<br />
‘The underwater scenery is spectacular and you can see most of <strong>the</strong> colourful species<br />
in <strong>the</strong> popular identification <strong>guide</strong>s,’ he says. ‘You can see all of <strong>the</strong> UK wrasse<br />
species, John Dory, dogfish and, albeit a rarer sight, monkfish.’<br />
FIRM FAVOURITE: a diver moves among <strong>the</strong><br />
girders of <strong>the</strong> James Eagan Layne<br />
ON POINT: dead men’s fingers are among <strong>the</strong><br />
sights at Hilsea Point Rock<br />
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MEWSTONE: 50°18.132’N,<br />
04°06.637’W<br />
Nominated by:<br />
Damian Walker, 38,<br />
PADI rescue diver<br />
A ten-minute RIB ride due<br />
south from <strong>Plymouth</strong><br />
<strong>Sound</strong>’s breakwater, <strong>the</strong><br />
Mews<strong>to</strong>ne is an island that was once<br />
joined <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> nearby shore. It’s now an<br />
isolated and impressive sight as it rises<br />
high above <strong>the</strong> surface of <strong>the</strong> water. No<br />
less impressive below, <strong>the</strong> Mews<strong>to</strong>ne<br />
slopes 15–30m in places.<br />
Damian Walker sees <strong>the</strong> site as<br />
valuable for upping <strong>the</strong> experience levels<br />
of novices. ‘The gradual increase in depth<br />
means it’s easy <strong>to</strong> have a controlled<br />
environment in which <strong>to</strong> fur<strong>the</strong>r a diver’s<br />
exposure <strong>to</strong> depth,’ he says. ‘With fingers<br />
of rock stretching out in<strong>to</strong> gullies of lightcoloured<br />
sand combined with prolific<br />
marine life, <strong>the</strong> Mews<strong>to</strong>ne makes an ideal<br />
spot for <strong>the</strong> underwater pho<strong>to</strong>grapher.’<br />
HMS SCYLLA: 50°19.644N, 04°15.200W<br />
Nominated by: Kevin Pidgeon, 45, sport diver<br />
Four years on from its sinking off Whitsand Bay, <strong>the</strong> former<br />
Royal Navy frigate HMS Scylla is now rivalling <strong>the</strong> James<br />
Eagan Layne as a magnet for marine life. The starboard<br />
side is covered with plumose anemones; <strong>the</strong> shallow<br />
deck is colonised with kelp, offering a home <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> plentiful wrasse;<br />
and large pollack hang almost motionless in <strong>the</strong> current off <strong>the</strong> bow.<br />
Kevin Pidgeon, a former Devonport Dockyard worker, has a particular<br />
interest in <strong>the</strong> vessel, having been involved in refitting its weaponry during<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1980s. ‘It’s fascinating <strong>to</strong> see how it looks below <strong>the</strong> water after<br />
having seen and worked on her during my time in <strong>the</strong> dockyard,’ he says.<br />
‘I’m very interested in how <strong>the</strong>y prepared it for divers, such as <strong>the</strong> cut-outs<br />
<strong>to</strong> allow access from one side <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r. I think this is <strong>the</strong> way forward<br />
for diving as <strong>the</strong> older wrecks deteriorate.’<br />
SCYLLA THRILLER: former Royal Navy frigate<br />
HMS Scylla, sunk <strong>to</strong> create an artificial reef in<br />
2004, is now becoming a haven for marine life<br />
STONE ME: this dahlia anemone is among<br />
<strong>the</strong> marine life found on <strong>the</strong> Mews<strong>to</strong>ne<br />
EAST RUTTS: 50°13.400’N,<br />
03°58.800’W<br />
Nominated by: John Gould, 71,<br />
advanced diver<br />
The East Rutts are an offshore<br />
formation of several pinnacles of<br />
rock that descend <strong>to</strong> a depth of<br />
40m and rise <strong>to</strong> within 8m of<br />
<strong>the</strong> surface. Veteran diver John Gould enjoys<br />
exploring <strong>the</strong> large boulders and fissures that<br />
form <strong>the</strong> reef. ‘You can have a good drift dive<br />
here and <strong>the</strong> boulders allow shelter if you want<br />
<strong>to</strong> get out of <strong>the</strong> tidal flow, whichever way it’s<br />
running,’ he says. ‘Silt can sometimes be a<br />
problem, but <strong>the</strong>re’s lots <strong>to</strong> see like pollack,<br />
lobsters and football sea squirts. Sea fans are<br />
quite common here and <strong>the</strong>re’s a lot of marine<br />
life among <strong>the</strong> kelp in <strong>the</strong> shallows.’<br />
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HATT TRICK: colonies of jewel anemones brighten up<br />
Hatt Rock [this pho<strong>to</strong>graph]; <strong>Plymouth</strong> <strong>Sound</strong> BSAC<br />
divers complete a safety check before diving [below]<br />
HATT ROCK: 50°10.600’N,<br />
04°29.300’W<br />
Nominated by: Pete Flaxman, 64,<br />
advanced instruc<strong>to</strong>r<br />
A 27km journey from <strong>Plymouth</strong>,<br />
a dive at Hatt Rock depends on<br />
favourable wea<strong>the</strong>r conditions, but<br />
<strong>the</strong> rock’s isolated location has its<br />
advantages. Diving officer Pete Flaxman has vivid<br />
memories of his first-ever dive with <strong>the</strong> club, which<br />
still remains a firm favourite: ‘Dropping down on<strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> rock in 30m with nothing else around<br />
is like being in a wilderness – I can only compare it<br />
<strong>to</strong> standing on a rocky <strong>to</strong>r on <strong>the</strong> wild and empty<br />
landscape of Dartmoor.’<br />
Due <strong>to</strong> its depth – it starts at 25m and plunges<br />
<strong>to</strong> more than 60m – <strong>the</strong>re is no kelp forest on <strong>the</strong><br />
pinnacle. Instead it is covered in brightly coloured<br />
jewel and plumose anemones.<br />
PLANNING AND<br />
PRACTICALITIES<br />
<strong>Plymouth</strong> <strong>Sound</strong> BSAC (www.<br />
plymouthdivers.org.uk) meets Monday<br />
evenings at 9pm and is based at <strong>the</strong><br />
Mountbatten Watersports Centre,<br />
Mountbatten, <strong>Plymouth</strong>. The centre has<br />
a bar, a restaurant and reasonably priced<br />
accommodation, with no charge for <strong>the</strong><br />
use of its two slipways.<br />
There is also an excellent free slipway at<br />
Richmond Walk, Mount Wise, which can be<br />
used practically at any state of <strong>the</strong> tide<br />
apart from low-water springs.<br />
Fort Bovisand also offers a free slip, while<br />
<strong>the</strong> Queen Anne’s Battery Marina, usable at<br />
all tides, has a launching fee which includes<br />
use of <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>ilets, showers and car parking.<br />
AIR/NITROX FILLS<br />
Sandford & Down, Pier Street, West Hoe:<br />
01752 266248<br />
In Deep, Mountbatten Centre, Lawrence<br />
Road: 01752 405400<br />
Aquanauts, 88 Vauxhall Street, Barbican:<br />
01752 228825<br />
<strong>Sound</strong> Diving, Queen Anne’s Battery<br />
Marina: 01752 670674<br />
<strong>Plymouth</strong> Diving Centre, Queen Anne’s<br />
Battery Marina: 01752 263900<br />
CONTACTS<br />
Diving Diseases Research Centre (DDRC),<br />
Hyperbaric Medical Centre, Tamar Science<br />
Park: 01752 209999<br />
<strong>Plymouth</strong> Longroom (harbourmaster –<br />
contact before diving in and around<br />
<strong>Plymouth</strong> <strong>Sound</strong>): VHF channel 14 or<br />
telephone 01752 663225<br />
Brixham Coastguard: VHF channel 16 or<br />
telephone 01803 882704