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75 Chapter


IRON TRAILS<br />

by TeSTbedSTudIO<br />

The city of Narvik lies in a fjord, along the coastline of Norway. The<br />

inhabitants of the fjords live their lives by the sea, but close bye,<br />

there is a hidden resource in the hinterland. Behind the mountain<br />

range are the vast lands of Sweden, not normally considered<br />

an asset for the Barents region. But at one specific point, this<br />

connection becomes visible and active. This is at Narvik, through<br />

its connection to city of Kiruna via the Malmbanan railroad.<br />

The project concerns the Kiruna Narvik area of the Barents Sea<br />

region, and takes as its departure the Malmbanan railroad. The<br />

track transports purified <strong>iron</strong> ore pellets from the mine in Kiruna<br />

to the port of Narvik. This trail of transportation ties together the<br />

two cities. It is their base of economy and it permeates everyday<br />

life. Together with the landscape and the resources of nature,<br />

these factors open up the possibilities for the future of the region.<br />

This has given rise to what may be called a testing ground, where<br />

many experimental and new technology ventures has started.<br />

Eventually, these activities may take over and form the new base<br />

of life in the post-industrial society.<br />

The drawing plots the characters and interconnections that<br />

together make up the region. The drawing offers a certain reading<br />

of the area, and enables speculation on how the region holds its<br />

future development in its own hands.


CHARACTERS<br />

MEGA SYSTEM<br />

ESRANGE<br />

REINDEER<br />

SNOW HOTEL<br />

SKID PAN<br />

STORYLINE<br />

POPULATION CURVE<br />

BUSINESS DEAL<br />

RESIDENTIAL BUILDING<br />

THE UNKNOWN<br />

TOURISTS<br />

MINE WORKER<br />

ORE BODY<br />

MINE WORKER<br />

KIRUNA CHURCH<br />

PORJUS POWER STATION<br />

LKAB OFFICE<br />

FORREST<br />

SAMI SHAMAN<br />

BÖRJE SALMING<br />

Chapter 78<br />

79 Chapter<br />

AURORA BOREALIS SKI BUM BIRD’S NEST<br />

KUNGSLEDEN TRAIL MOUN TAIN GRAND RO YAL HOTEL<br />

ARKS TRAIN STATION PELLETS WAGON<br />

BORDER FUTURUM TECHNOLOGY PARK ORE PORT<br />

SVARTA BJØRN FJORD SNOWMOBILE<br />

THE SUN<br />

ORCA<br />

FREIGHT SHIP<br />

WAVE POWER<br />

COD


CRACKS<br />

MINE WORKER<br />

KIRUNA<br />

ORE BODY<br />

KIIRUNAVAARA<br />

BUSINESS DEAL<br />

LKAB OFFICE<br />

PELLETS WORKS<br />

81 Chapter<br />

MINE WORKER<br />

ORE PROCESS<br />

The <strong>iron</strong> ore is a major feature of the Kiruna Narvik<br />

area, and the one on which its economy is built. 25<br />

million ton of ore is every year mined from the great<br />

ore body in Kiruna. The ore is crushed underground,<br />

and hoisted up to the sinter works, which turns the<br />

ore into transportable small pellets. The pellets are<br />

loaded on 52 wagon long trains, and shipped to the<br />

port of Narvik. There, it is stored and loaded onto<br />

ships that export it to steel mills far away.<br />

BIRD’S NEST<br />

NARVIK HARBOUR<br />

PELLETS WAGON<br />

FREIGHT SHIP<br />

STEEL MILL


TOURISTS<br />

KUNGSLEDEN TRAIL<br />

NATURAL RESOURCES<br />

What is a river in the summer becomes a road in<br />

the winter, and the best time to go skiing is in<br />

early may. In the summertime the sun never sets<br />

and in the winter, ice can become a hotel. The<br />

presence of nature is also conditioned by the fact<br />

that the municipalities of Kiruna and Narvik have<br />

the size of half of Denmark, populated by only 40<br />

000 people. It provides a vast space where many<br />

different elements can coexist independently.<br />

ICE HOTEL<br />

REINDEER<br />

FORREST<br />

SNOWMOBILE<br />

SKI BUM<br />

ARKS<br />

AURORA BOREALIS<br />

HUNTER<br />

BÖRJE SALMING<br />

KIERON<br />

SMALL POWER STATION<br />

DIVER<br />

FISH<br />

KING CRAB<br />

ORCA


LAND<br />

SKID PAN<br />

FUTURUM TECHNOLOGY PARK<br />

ESRANGE<br />

ROCKET LAUNCH<br />

STORYLINE<br />

SKY<br />

SHIITAKE PROSPECTING<br />

THE UNKNOWN<br />

UNDERGROUND<br />

ARCTIC ARENA<br />

SUN CELLS<br />

ARKS<br />

WAVE POWER<br />

TESTING GROUND<br />

Step by step, the economic dominance of the ore<br />

production is taken over by a more general<br />

approach of technology and transportation. Within<br />

this, the region tries to utilize the knowledge from<br />

the mining industry, together with the nature<br />

resources, and has devised the notion of a Testing<br />

Ground. Here, various forms of enterprises arise<br />

that test things, or are experiments in themselves.<br />

The ventures are unique in that they could only<br />

emerge where they are, and they receive a<br />

meaning when connected in a larger context.<br />

TORNETRÄSK<br />

SEA


Alphabet<br />

A<br />

ARCTIC RAIL eXPReSS<br />

The ARE-corridor is a direct rail connection between Narvik<br />

and Oslo. Every day it transports fish and crabs south to Oslo,<br />

and every day it returns north with a wide range of consumer<br />

goods. Although the logistics are national Norwegian, the<br />

transport goes through Sweden. Due to the nature of fresh<br />

fish, the train is very fast.<br />

ARK HOTeL<br />

“This area is an untapped secret known only to Swedes,” said<br />

Putte Eby, the brains behind the hotel. “But with enlightened<br />

management that will change. We want to open the area up.<br />

My guess is, in about five years we won’t have many Swedish<br />

guests: they will be mostly foreign.”<br />

ARKS<br />

One of the main leisure interests of the Kiruna residents is<br />

fishing. The fishers have developed an ark, a small cabin with<br />

runners, that may easily be transported out onto the ice of<br />

the Torneträsk lake. There are more than 1 200 arks during<br />

the winter season. They have different interiors, but all have<br />

a source of heating that keep the temperature at 20˚ C. Some<br />

have TV and a few have saunas. The common denominator<br />

is at least one hole for fishing, although most have two. The<br />

catch consists of grayling, char and salmon.<br />

ARMY bASe<br />

The town of Bjerkvik, in the municipality of Narvik, hosts the<br />

army base HV-16. Here is also Bjerkvik Technical Workshop,<br />

BTW, that consists of a 16 600 square metre building area<br />

divided between the main branch in Bjerkvik and the branch<br />

Osmarka near Evenes close to the airport. These are modern<br />

facilities built in 1986 and 1991. There are currently 120<br />

employees.<br />

AuRORA bOReALIS<br />

Aurora Borealis, or Northern lights, glows in yellow, green and<br />

red. It has always been considered magical. In Scandinavia it<br />

was called “the herring flash” referring to a heavenly shoal<br />

of fish. The scientific explanation is that electrons from<br />

space collide with particles in the outer atmosphere. The<br />

Earth’s magnetism concentrates the phenomena to the Polar<br />

Regions.<br />

B<br />

bdX<br />

BDX is a machine and transport company. The company is<br />

owned by 400 independent entrepreneurs with about 1 900<br />

employees and 1 600 machines and vehicles. The number of<br />

employees in the parent company is 150. For 2007, the BDX<br />

Group had sales amounting to SEK 1,6 billion, estimated to<br />

rise to 2 billion in 2008.<br />

beXuS<br />

Balloon-borne EXperiments for University Students is a<br />

student competition where winning experiments are executed<br />

in space. BEXUS experiments are lifted by a balloon with<br />

a volume of 12 000 m³ to a maximum altitude of 35 km,<br />

depending on total experiment mass (40-100 kg). The flight<br />

duration is 2-5 hours.<br />

bORdeR SHOPPING<br />

One passenger train between Kiruna and Narvik is called<br />

Karven, which means ”The Caraway”. Caraway is the dominant<br />

spice in a popular type of Norwegian hard liquor, often<br />

consumed during the trip. Prices differ considerably between<br />

Norway and Sweden. It is economical to travel from Narvik to<br />

Kiruna just to eat a pizza, which cost about 8 euro instead of<br />

the Narvik price of an astonishing 30 euro. Border-crossing<br />

delivery is not yet available.<br />

bÖRJe SALMING<br />

The ice hockey player Börje Salming and his brother Stig were<br />

born in the Sami village of Salmi. The family name was taken<br />

by his grandfather. Salming was elected into the International<br />

Ice Hockey Federation’s centennial All Stars team in 2008<br />

along with Vladislav Tretiak, Viacheslav Fetisov, Sergei<br />

Makarov, Valeri Kharlamov and Wayne Gretzky.<br />

bROAdbANd<br />

The County Administrative Board of Norrbotten has decided<br />

to invest SEK 8,5 million in a broadband network that ties<br />

together all the main municipal locations in the county. One<br />

problem will be to deliver broadband internet connection to<br />

the arks, so that one may surf on the ice.<br />

C<br />

CAR POOL<br />

The Ford Corporation enjoys Kiruna, having recently moved<br />

their winter testing of Jaguar, Aston Martin and Land Rover<br />

from Canada. They doubled their operations when the Arena<br />

Arctica hangar facilities were inaugurated in 2004. They<br />

join Volkswagen, Renault and Mercedes in recognizing the<br />

advantages of having Kiruna as their winter testing ground.<br />

COLd CLIMATe<br />

Cold Climate Technology Research is one of the priority<br />

research areas at the Narvik University College. The cold<br />

climate phenomena can be defined as the mutual effects<br />

of low temperatures, snow, ice and wind. Cold Climate<br />

technology is developed particularly to reduce disadvantages,<br />

or to utilize advantages, with cold climate. The knowledge and<br />

results from the wind and snowdrift activity is being utilised<br />

as a basis for modelling and simulation of snow avalanches<br />

and icing on structures.<br />

CRACK FORMATION<br />

The Kiirunavaara ore body has an almost vertical direction, but<br />

tilts so that its deeper end slants in under the city. When the<br />

ore is mined, the void that emerges is filled continuously with<br />

waste rock from above. This undermines the hanging wall, the<br />

side towards the city. Deformations form and a cavity slowly<br />

grows larger and larger. As a result, the affected city, which<br />

is dependent on the mining industry, has to move in order to<br />

survive.<br />

D<br />

deAL<br />

In a Swedish Chinese business deal, contract signing takes<br />

place at LKAB headquarters in Luleå, Sweden. In 2002,<br />

Chinese contractors buy 500 000 tons of high quality steel<br />

products for the Olympic games in Beijing. The Bird’s Nest<br />

Olympic stadium, the world’s largest enclosed space, is made<br />

out of 110 000 tons of steel.<br />

deSOLATe ROAd<br />

Sweden’s most desolate road is a 20 km long dirt road,<br />

isolated between the abandoned villages of Laimoluokta<br />

and Salmi, without contact with the rest of Sweden’s road<br />

network. There are 30 something cars isolated on the road.<br />

The cars are untaxed, uninsured and uninspected, since it<br />

is impossible to drive to the inspection. Cars broken are left<br />

where they stand. They are used by the grandchildren of those<br />

who left the villages, which now provide summerhouses. The<br />

cars are generally European from the 1970s.<br />

dRAINAGe bASIN<br />

The drainage basin of the Torne Älv river is 40 157 km², of<br />

which about 60 % is in Sweden and the rest in Finland. The<br />

drainage basin stretches from the Norwegian fell area through<br />

the north of Sweden and Finnish Lapland’s north-western part<br />

to the lowland coast of the Gulf of Bothnia. The water system<br />

consists of two large rivers, Torne Älv from the Swedish side<br />

and Muonio Älv that constitutes the border between Finland<br />

and Sweden. The rivers join south of Pajala.<br />

E<br />

eARLY TOuRISM<br />

Abisko is the first tourist station in the area, and originates<br />

with the Swedish Tourist Association acquiring some army<br />

barracks in Abiskojåkk in 1902. In 1906, the tourist station<br />

was inaugurated. Abisko National Park was formed in 1909,<br />

and in 1912 the research station for the natural sciences was<br />

relocated to Abisko Östra. Abisko tourist station was opened<br />

during the winter season from 1925 onwards. It remains one<br />

of the main centres for nature and wildlife activity in the<br />

country.<br />

eCONOMY OF THe uNKNOWN<br />

The term ore is defined purely economically and means<br />

“mineral worth mining”. The state of the region’s existence<br />

is relative.<br />

eNTeRPRISeS IN KIRuNA<br />

Pizzeria Arctica, Arctic CAD & Technology, Arctic Embroidery,<br />

Arctic Wind Power, Arctic Health, Nursery School the<br />

Mineworker, Children’s Mine, Candy Mine, Dog Mine, Fell<br />

Products, Group Home Fell Slope, Rapid & Fell, Parlour Fell<br />

Wind, Fell Real Estate, Nursery School Northern Lights and<br />

Squirrel, Open Air School the Wolf, Nursery School the Grouse,<br />

Hunter’s Kitchen, Film and Cultural Association Northern<br />

Lights, Northern Light Drivers, Northern Lights Real Estate,<br />

Northern Light Taxi, Northern Light Rentals and Solarium<br />

Tropical.<br />

eSRANGe<br />

The Esrange Space Center premises are located in an area of<br />

20 km² about 40 km east of Kiruna. Close to the main building<br />

area is the area for balloon launchings including two buildings<br />

for operations control and payload preparation. Further east<br />

is the launching area for rockets, which includes rocket and<br />

payload preparation halls, chemical laboratories and launch<br />

pads. The radar station, the satellite receiving station, and a<br />

GPS reference station are situated on top of a hill. A ground<br />

observation station, KEOPS, is located on another hilltop.<br />

F<br />

FAb<br />

The property company Fastighets AB Malmfälten, FAB, is a<br />

subsidiary fully owned by the LKAB mining company. ”FAB is<br />

a property company for all. We can offer row houses, villas,<br />

tenement houses and commercial spaces. Since we do not<br />

have new production within our company, we have many<br />

older buildings and flats with a unique charm. We have 2<br />

200 residential units in 400 buildings, mainly in Kiruna and<br />

Malmberget. Presently we have no vacant flats for letting.”<br />

FeLL TOuRISM<br />

In 1926, the Swedish Railway Workers’ Holiday Home<br />

Chapter 86<br />

87 Chapter<br />

Association opens its facility in Björkliden, later supplemented<br />

with hotel Fjället. 1929 sees the dawn of the world’s<br />

northernmost golf course on the premises, complete with<br />

Sami caddies. In 2005 the facilities become privately owned.<br />

The winter seasons are popular but the number of summer<br />

visitors have halved since the top years of the 1970s.<br />

FeRRuM buSINeSS<br />

During weekdays, all the 171 rooms of the Scandic Ferrum<br />

Hotel may be fully booked, perhaps with the exception of the<br />

two heavy smoker’s rooms. Most of the guests are working<br />

with the LKAB mining company or some of its subcontractors.<br />

There are usually vacancies during the weekends.<br />

FISH eXPORT<br />

Dried cod have been exported to south-western Europe for<br />

many centuries, probably even for a whole millennium. The<br />

fish is closely connected to the catholic Friday fast. Dried<br />

and salted cod is called “bacalau” in Portuguese and derives<br />

from the old Norwegian word for crate fish, “backefisk”.<br />

Today, bacalau is a Norwegian word for a chilli seasoned cod<br />

casserole dish. The Norwegian word for cod, “torsk”, is simply<br />

a combination of the words dried, “tørr”, and fish, “fisk”.<br />

FISHING INduSTRY<br />

From January to April, the waters around Narvik are full of<br />

spawning cod. Industrial fishing is a main business activity in<br />

the region. In the past, there were large quantities of herring<br />

in the Ofotenfjord, but unfortunately they have disappeared.<br />

Instead, there are salmon farms producing large broiler<br />

salmons. These are exported around the world, with Narvik as<br />

a main transportation hub.<br />

FRAGILe NATuRe<br />

There is a saying that if you step three times on the same<br />

place when walking in the fell nature, the vegetation under<br />

your foot will die. Here, old <strong>trails</strong> may be visible for hundreds<br />

of years after being used. The Nordic mountain flora is very<br />

fragile and slow growing. At the same time, most of the<br />

region’s businesses are based on using nature’s resources.<br />

FuTuRuM<br />

The company Futurum AS is a business development<br />

organization owned by the municipality of Narvik together with<br />

many local companies. Futurum assists in establishing and<br />

developing innovative projects. It is also profiling Narvik as a<br />

business region, highlighting its many advantages.<br />

G<br />

GOLF CLub<br />

The golf course is a cross-section of Narvik business life.<br />

The sponsors are: Hole 1 Quality Hotel Grand Royal, hole<br />

2 Narvikgården, hole 3 vacant, hole 4 Narvikguten PUB,<br />

hole 5 Nordlandsbanken, hole 6 LKAB, hole 7 vacant, hole 8<br />

Sparebanken Narvik, hole 9 Nordasfalt, hole 10 Byggmakker,<br />

hole 11 Byggtorget, hole 12 A Markussen, hole 13 MultiConsult,<br />

hole 14 vacant, hole 15 vacant, hole 16 Narvik Energi, hole<br />

17 MeglerForum, hole 18 Rørlegger’n. The main sponsor is<br />

Statkraft.<br />

GROuSe HuNTING<br />

Many animals are being hunted in the region, such as<br />

Ptarmigan, Willow Grouse, Capercaillie, Elk, Mountain Hare,<br />

Black Grouse and Brown Bear. The grouse hunting season<br />

is open for everyone. Both Norway and Sweden have similar<br />

rules. You have to buy a licence, but you do not need to own<br />

land to hunt. This has made grouse hunting very popular,<br />

especially the Ptarmigan hunt.<br />

GuLF STReAM<br />

The North Atlantic Current, which is an extension of the Gulf<br />

Stream, gives Narvik a much milder climate than a town would<br />

otherwise have at this latitude. In addition, the mountains<br />

surrounding the town give shelter from the strong winds<br />

typical of coastal areas. The mean annual temperature is<br />

3.8° C, the January average is −4.1° C, and the July average<br />

is 13.4° C.<br />

H<br />

HANGAR<br />

Welcome to 6 500 m² of hangar space above the Arctic Circle.<br />

Do you need a large hangar building at an airport with a high<br />

level of service close to a modern city, surrounded by wild<br />

countryside with a winter climate most of the year? Arena<br />

Arctica, situated nine kilometres from Kiruna, meets most of<br />

the expectations one can demand of a hangar building. The<br />

space can accommodate an aircraft up to the size of a Boeing<br />

747.<br />

HOTeL AuRORA<br />

Hotel Aurora is used primarily for researchers and partners<br />

to the space centre. New hotel rooms, mostly double rooms,<br />

are now being prepared to meet the great demand for space<br />

tourism. First are some 100 English tourists, booked through<br />

”Discover the World”. These trips, arranged together with the<br />

Ice Hotel, offer a unique experience with elements of space,<br />

nature, ice and Nordic light. ”Many people want to stay at a<br />

rocket base”, says Olle Norberg, head of Esrange.<br />

HOuSING bubbLe<br />

In the middle of 2006, housing prices in the USA began to drop.<br />

This led to the subprime mortgage crash. The German bank<br />

Depfa got into big trouble, which eventually led to the fall of<br />

the Oslo-based Terra Securities. In November 2007 Judge Lars<br />

Borge-Andersen announced its bankruptcy. The municipality<br />

of Narvik had investments in Terra Securities, and lost more<br />

than NOK 140 million, eventually having to take up loans to<br />

pay the city’s employees.<br />

HYTTeSPRAWL<br />

Just north of the Malmbanan railroad on the Bjørnfjell hill is<br />

a conglomeration of small cabins, the Norwegian ”hytter”.<br />

Mostly from the 1960s, they constitute a kind of suburban<br />

sprawl as the farthest outpost of civilization in the eastern<br />

stretch of the Ofoten area.<br />

I<br />

ICe HOTeL<br />

During a trip to Japan, the entrepreneur Yngve Bergqvist was<br />

shown a copy in ice of the old wooden church in Jukkasjärvi. At<br />

that moment he got the idea of building a hotel made of snow<br />

and ice. Every winter a new hotel is erected and the building<br />

process continues until the warmth of the spring melts the<br />

construction. A couple of years ago, Bergqvist created a copy<br />

of the Jukkasjärvi Ice Hotel in Quebec, Canada.<br />

IMPACT AReA<br />

The rocket impact area is located north of Esrange in the<br />

Swedish tundra region. This area is divided into three zones,<br />

A, B, and C, with a total area of 5 600 km². Zone A, the impact<br />

area for boosters, can be extended when rockets with longrange<br />

boosters are launched. Zones B and C are impact areas<br />

for second and third stages as well as payloads. Zone C is not<br />

allowed for use during the period May 1 - September 15. The<br />

impact area for balloons covers the northern parts of Sweden,<br />

Norway, Finland, Russia, Canada and Alaska.<br />

INduSTRIAL NATuRe<br />

At 500 meter’s depth in the mine of LKAB, the tasty<br />

Shiitake mushrooms are grown. And at the homepage of the<br />

municipality the point is made that the name Kiruna originates<br />

with a translation of the Sami expression Kieron, which means<br />

the bird “Riekko”, the white fell grouse. In Kiruna it is close<br />

from industry to nature. Industrial nature.<br />

INLANd RAILWAY<br />

The Malmbanan Railroad connects to the Inland Railway,<br />

running through the central parts of northern Sweden from<br />

Gällivare down to Kristinehamn in a stretch of about 1300 km.<br />

It was built between 1908 and 1937.<br />

J<br />

K<br />

KING CRAb<br />

Around 1960, Russian scientists succeeded in introducing the<br />

red King Crab into the Barents Sea. During the 1990s the stock<br />

increased enormously. Today it has reached the Ofotfjord<br />

and commercial fishing is starting. Even though it poses a<br />

big threat to other species, the Norwegian government has<br />

decided on fishing quotas and catch regulations. The King Crab<br />

can weigh 10 kg and have a leg span of almost two metres.<br />

It tastes very good.<br />

KK4<br />

The pelletizing plant KK4 is the world’s largest gratekiln-cooler<br />

type sintering machine and a 700 million euro<br />

investment. The plant has a 70 metre long grate to dry and<br />

pre-heat the ore gravel. The gravel is then sintered to pellets<br />

in a 40 metre long rotary kiln at 1 250° C. KK4 will be able to<br />

produce 5 million tons of pellets per year. Along with other<br />

investments this means a raise of LKAB’s total yearly pellet<br />

production from 24 to 28 million tons.<br />

KuNGSLedeN<br />

Abisko is the starting point for the backpacker trail Kungsleden<br />

that runs for 450 km to Hemavan in the south. Kungsleden is<br />

one of the most famous <strong>trails</strong> in the world. It was laid out in<br />

1920, tying together disparate smaller <strong>trails</strong> and paths. The<br />

ambition was to make the best and the most beautiful <strong>trails</strong>,<br />

and it was therefore given its name Kungsleden, the King’s<br />

path.<br />

L<br />

LAKe OF STeeL<br />

The volume of Torneträsk, Sweden’s seventh largest lake, is<br />

17,1 km³. The water weighs 17,1 billion tons. LKAB in Kiruna<br />

produces 20 000 000 tons of steel every year, 2% of the world<br />

production. Thus every year 1 billion tons of steel is produced.<br />

This means it would take 17 years of global steel production<br />

to fill Torneträsk. With an anticipated cost of 800 dollars per<br />

ton, the operation would cost 13 000 billion dollars or 16 000<br />

billion euro. Currently, the Iraq war has cost USA 600 billion<br />

dollars. Instead of 22 Iraq wars, we could have a lake of steel.<br />

LAPLANd<br />

Lapland is the northernmost province of Sweden and<br />

constitutes about a quarter of its surface area. Lapland<br />

is also a large part of the Sami nation, Sápmi. The coat-ofarms<br />

portrays the Wildman, representing the unexplored<br />

nature of the province. The club he is bearing is made of gold,<br />

symbolizing the nature reserves.


M<br />

MALMbANAN<br />

On the Malmbanan railway, 13 trains per day transport ore<br />

from the mine in Kiruna to the Port in Narvik. Each train<br />

consists of 52 wagons that each loads 80 tons of sintered ore<br />

pellets, and the train carries 4 160 tons in total. New trains<br />

that are being developed increase the number of wagons to 68<br />

and the load to 100 tons per wagon, with a total of 6 800 tons<br />

per train. There are also trains for transportation of persons<br />

and other goods running on the railway line.<br />

MeGA SYSTeM<br />

The Mega System is a gigantic, still living cultural env<strong>iron</strong>ment.<br />

It consists of the Malmfälten mines, the ore harbour in Narvik,<br />

the Malmbanan railroad, Porjus power station and the Boden<br />

fortress. Naturally, their existence is known by the locals,<br />

but that they together make up one single technological<br />

system is new to many people. Staffan Hansson, professor<br />

in the history of technology, has shown that these systems<br />

are interconnected and so strongly interdependent that they<br />

constitute a mega system.<br />

MINe TRANSPORTATION<br />

LKAB is the biggest business partner of machine and transport<br />

company BDX. The mine in Kiirunavaara occupies a large<br />

number of BDX’s machines and vehicles.<br />

MOVING CITY<br />

By changing the infrastructural networks, re-routing the<br />

railway and the E10 motorway, the parts of the city of Kiruna<br />

that are affected by unstable ground will be rebuilt northwest<br />

of the existing city. Many of the key functions of the city,<br />

among them the reconstructed church, are to be placed here.<br />

The residential periphery is suddenly closely connected to the<br />

centre. The new city is sited in between the lake Luossajärvi<br />

and the old ore mines of Luossavaara.<br />

MYTH OF THe MeGA SYSTeM<br />

From the autumn of 2006, the Norrbotten County Museum<br />

has been running the pedagogical project ”Meet the Mega<br />

System”. The aim of the project is for teachers in the county<br />

to start to use the mega system as a focus in education,<br />

so that students become aware, curious and proud of the<br />

county’s industrial and cultural heritage, both historically and<br />

in present time. The tool used for this venture is Storyline.<br />

N<br />

NARVIK uNIVeRSITY COLLeGe<br />

The University College has 1 300 students and 170 employees.<br />

It has departments for building, engineering design, scientific<br />

computing, electrical engineering and space technology. Most<br />

students do not come from Narvik, and the body of students<br />

actively contribute to changing the city’s demography<br />

and urban life. The impact of the college’s work on the<br />

entrepreneurial structure of Narvik is something the city sees<br />

as an asset, and is trying to accommodate for.<br />

NATIONAL bORdeR<br />

The resort Riksgränsen, meaning”National Border”, is the<br />

centre of advanced and ‘off –piste’ downhill skiing in Sweden.<br />

The weather conditions make it possible to ski in the bright<br />

sun of May. The operation started in 1928 with 18 beds and<br />

self-catering. The first international slalom competition on<br />

Swedish grounds was held in Riksgränsen in 1934, and 1938<br />

was the start of the Swedish championships.<br />

NATuRAL bORdeR<br />

The border between the drainage basin of the Baltic Sea and<br />

the rivers flowing out into the Barents sea are almost entirely<br />

consistent with the national Norwegian border to Sweden<br />

and Finland. These borders are geopolitically and historically<br />

defined.<br />

NeW<br />

The North East West freight corridor, NEW, is an intermodal<br />

transport corridor, which links the North American East<br />

Coast to Russia and Central Asia, via the port of Narvik and<br />

the railway system in the Nordic Countries. NEW represents<br />

shorter distance, has less complicated border crossings and<br />

utilizes less congested areas than existing alternatives. NEW<br />

is an alternative or a supplement to some of the existing<br />

routes.<br />

NeW CAPACITY<br />

Chinese ports handled 48 million shipping containers, in<br />

the form of ”twenty-foot equivalent units” (TEU) in 2003.<br />

In 2002, the Midwest of China exported more than 130 000<br />

TEU to Europe and close to 200 000 TEU to the USA. If only<br />

50% of this volume could be carried by train, it represents<br />

approximately 4 daily trains along the NEW Corridor. There<br />

have to be ships leaving Narvik every day for an acceptable<br />

frequency. If the ship is 5 000 TEU, a mid size transport ship,<br />

there has to be a yearly transport of 1.8 million TEU, or about<br />

45 trains a day.<br />

NeW WAGONS<br />

Kiruna Wagon manufactures the new generation of ore railway<br />

wagons F 050. The new wagon carries 100 tons. Together<br />

with the upgrade of Malmbanan to withstand 30 tons of axle<br />

pressure and the use of more powerful engines being able<br />

to pull 750 metre long trains with 68 wagons, the transport<br />

capacity will increase by 60 %.<br />

NORdLANd<br />

Nordland is the narrowest county in Norway. Despite its<br />

name, Nordland is not the northernmost county, which is<br />

Finnmark. The region has always been home to a large Sea<br />

Sami population, now assimilated in the Norwegian culture.<br />

The coat-of-arms portrays a Nordland boat, as traditionally<br />

built by the Sami people. Its construction resembles the old<br />

Viking longship.<br />

O<br />

ORe bOdY<br />

The Kiirunavaara ore body is the largest magnetite resource<br />

known today. The magnetite has a high concentration of <strong>iron</strong>,<br />

leaving little waste material. The ore body is one hundred<br />

meters wide and believed to be 4 km deep. But no one knows<br />

for sure.<br />

ORe LOAdING<br />

Every day, 11 to 13 ore trains arrive in Narvik. The ore wagons<br />

are washed and unloaded while in motion. A whole train set is<br />

unloaded in 30 minutes. The ore pellets are then transported<br />

on conveyor belts to the ship. In less than two days, Narvik<br />

ships enough <strong>iron</strong> to build the Beijing Olympic arena Bird’s<br />

Nest.<br />

ORe SHIPS<br />

A transport ship loads on average 105 000 tons of ore, but<br />

the port has a capacity for vessels carrying 350 000 tons.<br />

Destinations may be around the world. As an example, during<br />

five days ships will travel to Misurata in Libya, Bakar in<br />

Croatia, Hamburg in Germany, Kotka in Finland, Moerdijk in the<br />

Netherlands and El Dekheila in Egypt.<br />

P<br />

PAYbACK<br />

Many ships of the German Kriegsmarine still lie on the bottom<br />

of the Ofotfjord, so about 0.2% of the exported steel was<br />

returned to the region.<br />

POWeR STATION<br />

The first power stations in Sweden were built by private<br />

investors. In 1906 the Swedish government felt the need<br />

to produce power and a couple of very large stations were<br />

planned. The Porjus power station was built between 1910 and<br />

1915. No roads led to the site so all the construction material<br />

had to be carried by foot. After the station was completed<br />

many of the workers stayed and formed the town of Porjus.<br />

PROSPeCTING<br />

There is a large interest from international companies to<br />

prospect in Sweden. Northland Resources, a Canadian mining<br />

company, have recently received a licence to mine <strong>iron</strong> ore<br />

in Pajala, and the Swedish mining authority Bergsstaten<br />

has issued an exploitation concession for 100 million tons.<br />

Prospecting in new locations occurs continuously.<br />

Q<br />

QuALITY COOKING<br />

There are many regional culinary specialities that tie the area<br />

together as a source of a full menu: Swedish caviar from<br />

Kalix, fresh shrimps from Narvik, shiitake mushrooms from<br />

the Kiirunavaara mine, smoked reindeer heart from Gabna<br />

Sami village, king crabs from the Ofotfjord, fresh grayling from<br />

Torneträsk, cured salmon from Lakselv, grouse casserole<br />

from Njuorajaure, Bacalau from Lofoten and cloudberries from<br />

Abisko National Park.<br />

R<br />

ReC GROuP<br />

Renewable Energy Corporation Group manufactures solar<br />

cells in Narvik. Narvik is a peculiar location for sun power.<br />

During the winter it is dark for 25 days but during the summer<br />

it is daylight during 47 nights. The entire REC Group is about<br />

half the size of the LKAB mining company, and employs around<br />

the same amount of Narvik citizens.<br />

ReMOTe CONTROL<br />

Mining trains at the 1045m level are run by the control centre<br />

at the 775m level. There are also electric loaders, which are<br />

remotely controlled. The operator sits in front of monitors in<br />

a control room, and steers the machines in the production<br />

area. The machines navigate with the help of rotating lasers<br />

and reflectors on the walls. Information about the position of<br />

the machine is sent via wireless base stations to the control<br />

room computer.<br />

ReXuS<br />

Rocket-borne EXperiments for University Students is a<br />

student competition where winning experiments are executed<br />

in space. The experiments are launched on an unguided, spinstabilised<br />

rocket powered by an Improved Orion Motor with 290<br />

kg of solid propellant. It is capable of taking 40 kg of student<br />

experiment modules to an altitude of approximately 100 km.<br />

ROCK STATe<br />

Bergsstaten, “The Rock State”, is the official mining<br />

inspectorate of Sweden. It was founded in 1637 and is one of<br />

the oldest authorities in Sweden. Bergsstaten is responsible<br />

for issuing permits for prospecting and mining. The Swedish<br />

law states that anyone can acquire permits for investigations<br />

regardless of ownership of the land, something that is<br />

considered liberal compared to other countries.<br />

Chapter 88<br />

89 Chapter<br />

S<br />

SALT POWeR<br />

When freshwater meets saltwater, for example where a<br />

river flows into the sea, enormous quantities of energy are<br />

released through osmosis. In an osmotic power plant, fresh-<br />

and seawater is fed into underground chambers, separated<br />

by a membrane. The salt molecules in the seawater draw the<br />

freshwater through the membrane, causing a pressure on the<br />

seawater side. This pressure corresponds to a water column<br />

of 120 metres, or a large waterfall, and can be utilised in a<br />

turbine, which generates electricity.<br />

SAMI PeOPLe<br />

The Sami people, formerly known as the Lapps, are the<br />

indigenous people of the region. Recent genetic studies<br />

have indicated that the Sami are descendants of common<br />

ancestors of the Catalonians and the Basques, probably the<br />

first inhabitants of Europe. While the reindeer herding Fell<br />

Sami have the archetypal Sami lifestyle, the coastal Sea Sami<br />

are in majority. The Sami discovered what proved to be the<br />

Kiirunavaara <strong>iron</strong> ore body.<br />

SAMI VILLAGe<br />

Gabna is a Fell Sami village in the Kiruna region. Because of<br />

the nature of reindeer herding, Gabna occupies a long and<br />

narrow area from the mountains to the forest, typical for a<br />

Sami village. The Sami people used to migrate to Norway too,<br />

but border administration made that impossible. Gabna is<br />

affected by the relocation of Kiruna due to the mining industry,<br />

thus demonstrating a conflict between two societies.<br />

SCAR<br />

The traces from ore mining in the Luossavaara mountain of<br />

Kiruna have created a large rift. When the city is moved, this<br />

geographical scar may however be utilized as a contribution to<br />

the city’s regeneration. A recent study commissioned by the<br />

LKAB mining company developed a programme in which the<br />

cavity of the mountain may be transformed into a travel centre<br />

with indoor skiing slopes, a tropical garden, a shopping area, a<br />

spa and swimming facilities.<br />

SHAMAN’S dRuM<br />

The Sami shamans, called Noaidi, use a large drum. On the skin<br />

of the drum a map of the world is drawn. The map represents<br />

a mythology of the Sami people. By placing a piece of reindeer<br />

antlers as a marker on the skin while drumming, divination<br />

could be made through the path of the marker along the<br />

figures on the drum. Different overlapping zones of figures can<br />

be noticed: the forest, the mountains, the Christian village, the<br />

gods and the Sami community.<br />

SKIdPAN<br />

Kiruna has a 50-year history of hosting international<br />

automobile winter testing operations. Kiruna is surrounded<br />

by hundreds of lakes, offering secluded private skidpans<br />

and backdrops for breathtaking public displays. On the lake<br />

Saustusjärvi alone, BDX expertly prepares several kilometres<br />

of skidpans. Our latest addition is a skidpan in the form of a<br />

shallow artificial lake, 800 x 800 meters, which is open for<br />

business already by the middle of November.<br />

SMALL POWeR<br />

Småkraft, or Small Power, is a small-scale hydroelectric power<br />

plant with long traditions in Norway. With new technology,<br />

relatively small falls of water may be used effectively. A part<br />

of a stream is led into pipes through the power plant, and the<br />

facility occupies little physical space. Hydroelectrical power<br />

is today the most important source of energy production in<br />

Norway. Small Norwegian waters have an unutilized potential<br />

of 25 TWh. Power plants under 100 kW are called Micro Power<br />

Plants.<br />

SNOWMObILe<br />

Snowmobiles are very popular in northern Sweden. Aside<br />

from their common recreational use, snowmobiles are<br />

essential for the reindeer herding industry. There are 1 500<br />

km of snowmobile paths in the region. In Norway, the general<br />

recreational use is banned, creating a kind of micro tourism to<br />

the Swedish side of the border.<br />

SPACe TOuRISM<br />

Located 200 km north of the Arctic Circle and surrounded by<br />

a vast wilderness, its geographic location is ideal. Richard<br />

Branson of Virgin Galactic has looked into the option of using<br />

this site for space tourism in 2012, where space trips with<br />

paying passengers will launch from Esrange.<br />

SPORT FISHING<br />

In the nineteenth century, English aristocrats came to<br />

northern Norway to fly fish for salmon. They were called the<br />

Salmon Lords. Today, many people come to Narvik to fish. It is<br />

common to rent a “hytte”, a small cabin with an accompanying<br />

boat for deep-sea fishing.<br />

STATKRAFT<br />

Statkraft is a state-owned enterprise with an aim to be a<br />

European leader within env<strong>iron</strong>mentally-friendly energy.<br />

Statkraft produces water, wind and gas power. Statkraft is<br />

now developing the areas of wind power, tidal power and salt<br />

power.<br />

STORAGe SILOS<br />

Ore storage silos are being built underground, and the entire<br />

harbour structure will be adapted to handle larger ore trains<br />

and greater volumes of <strong>iron</strong> ore products. 11 large storage<br />

silos in the form of rock caverns will be blasted. Above the<br />

storage area, the ore trains will enter a tunnel and bottomdischarge<br />

their loads into the silos. Each silo holds about<br />

110 000 tonnes of pellets, the full load of about 16 of the<br />

new train sets. The total storage capacity is approximately<br />

1,5 million tons.<br />

STORYLINe<br />

Storyline is an educational method in which learning occurs<br />

within the plot of a story. The story becomes a fictive reality<br />

that the students assemble together. Just like in all stories,<br />

a storyline is set in a specific time, in a place where the<br />

action unfolds and with a number of characters. The narrative<br />

frame is adjusted to the situation: discussion, reflection,<br />

documentation, construction or experimentation.<br />

SVARTA bJØRN<br />

Since 1959, the annual Winter Party Week dubs a girl Svarta<br />

Bjørn, in the found memory of a Norwegian navvy cook who<br />

died in 1901 during the construction of the Malmbanan<br />

railroad. The candidate should be dark haired, tall and have a<br />

proud posture. The title has more and more begun to promote<br />

a feminist aspect in the male dominated north, and there are<br />

now a Svarta Bjørn conference and scholarship.<br />

T<br />

TAILORed eNVIRONMeNT<br />

What are your env<strong>iron</strong>mental needs? In the vast, underground<br />

mine you will find everything from high-tech systems to<br />

precisely controlled propagation env<strong>iron</strong>ments. When it comes<br />

to env<strong>iron</strong>mental variables such as dust, humidity, water and<br />

air pressure and an array of other stress factors, the selection<br />

of possible tailored env<strong>iron</strong>ments is practically endless.<br />

TeSTING GROuNd<br />

Welcome to Kiruna Test Area. Kiruna’s geographical location<br />

and wide range of modern industries offer unique possibilities<br />

for testing operations in a sub-arctic env<strong>iron</strong>ment. Here you<br />

will find an established infrastructure and a city that offers<br />

a complete range of services and a wide variety of exciting<br />

activities, year round, for testing in space and flight, on<br />

land and underground. Our high-tech business atmosphere<br />

is fuelled by the expansion of the research facilities and<br />

industries thriving in Kiruna.<br />

TRAINING ANd TRIAL GROuNdS<br />

Sautusjärvi and the water: Continue straight ahead on the<br />

Paksuniemivägen road. After a sharp right turn is a small<br />

bridge over a brook. Turn left at the first dirt road after the<br />

brook (there are red traffic mirrors at the crossing). From<br />

a road description to Malmfältens German Pointer Club’s<br />

training and trial grounds for track and water.<br />

U<br />

V<br />

W<br />

WAR MACHINe<br />

Narvik has its outstanding place in the history of the Second<br />

World War. Being free of ice all year round had made Narvik<br />

the second biggest city in northern Norway. Trade agreements<br />

provided for substantial <strong>iron</strong> exports from neutral Sweden to<br />

the Third Reich: 10 million tons in 1940 alone, out of which 3<br />

million tons had to be transported via Narvik. That constituted<br />

Narvik’s strategic importance.<br />

WeLd RObOT<br />

Kiruna Wagon’s new weld robot is one of the largest in Europe.<br />

Its size is necessary for the demanding welds of wagon F 050.<br />

The trains weigh about 8 500 tons, and are subject to extreme<br />

pull tensions affecting material and joints. The superior use<br />

of material saves 30 kg of welding wire per wagon, and gives<br />

room for an additional 9 000 tons of ore per year to the port<br />

of Narvik.<br />

WORLd’S LARGeST CITY<br />

The 1st of January 1948 Kiruna received its city rights, and<br />

became in its surface area the largest city in the world. All<br />

of the surrounding land with the parishes of Jukkasjärvi<br />

and Vittangi were incorporated. This became a role model<br />

for the large municipalities that later would be instituted in<br />

Sweden. The world record was held until 1968, when Mount<br />

Isa in Queensland, Australia, double the size, received its city<br />

rights.<br />

X<br />

Y<br />

Z

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