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The Unknown City: Contesting Architecture and Social Space

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Part II: Filtering Tactics<br />

288<br />

16<br />

289<br />

16.3 | Spuistraat, Amsterdam, 1995.<br />

scheduled to be recaptured by the authorities several days after my arrival,<br />

but when I left the situation was unchanged, at least on the surface.<br />

<strong>The</strong> view south, to my right, on Spuistraat presented an urban trajectory<br />

dominated by much more traditional forms of gentrification. Some<br />

splendid conversion, using fancy wooden shutters, modernized gables (no<br />

hook here), <strong>and</strong> vaulted interior designs, was transforming an old structure<br />

for its new inhabitants, who were much more likely to visit the boutiques<br />

<strong>and</strong> gourmet restaurants in the vicinity than the shops up the road. <strong>The</strong><br />

transition quickened in a little restaurant row that ranged from what was reputed<br />

to be the best seafood place in Amsterdam <strong>and</strong> one of the gr<strong>and</strong>est traditional<br />

centers of Dutch cuisine (called the Five Flies <strong>and</strong> fed daily by<br />

busloads of mainly Japanese <strong>and</strong> German package-tourists), to a variety of<br />

smaller cafés, Indonesian restaurants (considered part of Dutch cuisine), <strong>and</strong><br />

fast-food emporia selling tasty bags of frites.<br />

By the time you reach the Spui on foot, the street scene is awash<br />

again with activity <strong>and</strong> variety. A large bookstore shares one corner with an<br />

international news center, spilling over onto the sidewalk with newspapers,<br />

magazines, <strong>and</strong> academic journals from around the world as well as pamphlets,<br />

flyers, <strong>and</strong> broadsheets announcing more local events. <strong>The</strong>re are beer<br />

pubs nearby, as well as an American-style cocktail bar <strong>and</strong> several represen-

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