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The Unknown City: Contesting Architecture and Social Space

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Part I: Filters<br />

56<br />

3<br />

57<br />

Barry Curtis<br />

tem. 1 I was interested in the perpetual plight of that city, because for me it<br />

clearly exemplifies how meanings can both persist <strong>and</strong> be subject to the<br />

relativism of constant historical rearticulation. Venice, as well as being a<br />

potent memory theater, also engaged me in the pleasurable experience<br />

of tourism—surrender, visiting <strong>and</strong> belonging, <strong>and</strong> participation in the<br />

“Venetian” game of masking <strong>and</strong> revealing. Georg Simmel’s observation<br />

that “Venice presents dualities that cannot be resolved into a synthesis” 2 gestures<br />

toward the more general undecidability of urban experience.<br />

<strong>The</strong> paradoxical nature of Venice has been firmly established by innumerable<br />

admirers <strong>and</strong> detractors. It has been acknowledged as a universal<br />

city—the sort of paradigmatic text deployed by Italo Calvino—but it is<br />

also a bizarrely retarded supplement to the development of cities up to the<br />

industrial age. It can be refigured as everlasting <strong>and</strong> perpetually “in peril,”<br />

as a pedestrian precinct par excellence, as a city of aged inhabitants, as an<br />

ecological conundrum, as a heritage city, as an international cultural center,<br />

as a city of carnival <strong>and</strong> hedonism, <strong>and</strong> even as an attraction for a modern<br />

telecommunications infrastructure. 3 It is both a freak <strong>and</strong> an archetype.<br />

What interests me most here is that it is a paradigmatic “place.”<br />

That Venice is primarily conceived as a paradox spurs us to further<br />

considerations on the nature of cities, the relationship between past <strong>and</strong><br />

present, nature <strong>and</strong> culture, the ceremonial <strong>and</strong> the everyday, the appearance<br />

<strong>and</strong> the reality. <strong>The</strong> exceptional status of Venice is that of a city supposedly<br />

arrested <strong>and</strong> preserved in time. This “timelessness” has enabled memory to<br />

work on it in a number of ways as a memory of the “first home” <strong>and</strong> as a<br />

memory preserved by the nature of the changes enacted on the memorial<br />

city. <strong>The</strong> various mythic underst<strong>and</strong>ings of the city have come to constitute<br />

its meaning in ways that are more fundamental than those deployed to reconstruct<br />

cities that have been adaptive to change. Venice is not layered; it<br />

cannot be analogized like Pompeii, as corresponding to the levels of consciousness;<br />

it is built on artificial foundations. Something of its unique nature<br />

is captured in Simmel’s cryptic description of it as “a perfect mask that<br />

hides being, or rather reveals the loss or absence of being.” 4<br />

Venice as a densely produced “place” generates a kind of ideal in its<br />

intensity <strong>and</strong> condensation, not just as an urban form but as a labyrinth,<br />

maze, or trap: “a ritual circulation” in which confrontations with others <strong>and</strong><br />

self are produced. As Jean Baudrillard has also said, “there is no side exit in<br />

Venice.” 5 <strong>The</strong> city in addition represents the inexhaustibility of place. As<br />

early as 1494, Canon Pietro Casola expressed a perception that has been repeated<br />

down the centuries <strong>and</strong> is echoed in every current guide book: “So<br />

much has been said, there appears to be nothing more to be said.” 6 But the<br />

very fixity of Venice has enabled it to be perpetually recast as a world city, a

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