A Future for Irish Historic Houses - Irish Heritage Trust
A Future for Irish Historic Houses - Irish Heritage Trust
A Future for Irish Historic Houses - Irish Heritage Trust
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Table of Contents Page<br />
Foreword by An Taoiseach Mr. Bertie Ahern TD 2<br />
Acknowledgements 3<br />
Executive Summary 4<br />
Section 1 Compiling the Study 7<br />
1.1 Aims 7<br />
1.2 Choice of houses and procedure 7<br />
1.3 Terminology 8<br />
Section 2 <strong>Historic</strong>al Background 9<br />
Section 3 Survey Findings 13<br />
3.1 Present function of historic houses 13<br />
3.2 Cultural heritage importance 15<br />
3.3 Conservation issues 20<br />
3.3 (i) <strong>Houses</strong> in the ownership of original families 20<br />
3.3 (ii) <strong>Houses</strong> in state ownership 23<br />
3.3 (iii)<strong>Houses</strong> in the ownership of institutions<br />
and organisations 24<br />
3.3 (iv) <strong>Houses</strong> in new private ownership 25<br />
3.4 Further sources of threat 26<br />
3.4 (i) Income/Funding 26<br />
3.4 (ii) Decline in tourism 28<br />
3.4 (iii) Taxation 30<br />
3.4 (iv) Insurance 33<br />
Section 4 National <strong>Trust</strong> Legislation 34<br />
Section 5 Summary of Key Findings 38<br />
Section 6 Key Recommendations 40<br />
References 44<br />
Appendix I Schedule of <strong>Houses</strong> in Survey and Location Map 45<br />
Appendix II Summary of Findings <strong>for</strong> each House 49<br />
1
FOREWORD<br />
The stated policy of Government ‘ to ensure the protection of our heritage and to promote its<br />
enjoyment by all’ is the outcome of an increased awareness and appreciation of the value of<br />
our heritage in recent years, both <strong>for</strong> its own value and the economic and educational benefits<br />
that arise from it. To facilitate this commitment by Government, I placed heritage, including<br />
both the built and natural environment within the remit of the Department of the<br />
Environment, <strong>Heritage</strong> and Local Government, as Local Authorities, under central<br />
Government, share responsibility <strong>for</strong> the implementation of heritage policies.<br />
The built heritage includes a wide variety of structures from terraced houses to thatched<br />
cottages, bridges and boundary walls to canals and castles, but the ‘Big House’ has a special<br />
place in <strong>Irish</strong> architectural history. Once considered not to be part of our patrimony, these<br />
magnificent eighteenth and nineteenth century houses, built by <strong>Irish</strong> builders, are now<br />
increasingly valued <strong>for</strong> their architectural significance and <strong>for</strong> the wealth of superb interior<br />
decoration created mainly by <strong>Irish</strong> craftspeople.<br />
However, the problems of upkeep of these great houses in today’s world are obvious, and<br />
have now been accurately chronicled in this study. Ideally, the best way <strong>for</strong> ensuring the<br />
survival of many of these important houses is <strong>for</strong> them to continue in the loving care of the<br />
original owners. Sadly, less than fifty houses, with their all important family contents, remain<br />
in the hands of the families which built them, and many of these are finding it difficult to<br />
survive. Some houses in state-ownership, or occupied by institutions such as schools, are<br />
facing similar difficulties. A number of houses which have come on the market in recent<br />
years have been <strong>for</strong>tunate to fall into the hands of new owners who have meticulously<br />
restored and refurbished to a high standard as well as keeping the landscaped settings intact.<br />
Conservation requirements can clash with the changes necessary to adapt these historic<br />
buildings <strong>for</strong> modern use and to attract the tourist. Planning legislation should not mean the<br />
inflexible preserving of the status quo; neither should it permit works which devalue the<br />
intrinsic historical worth of the buildings and settings. In<strong>for</strong>med and enlightened judgements<br />
need to be made when dealing with the built heritage and balanced solutions should be<br />
sought.<br />
The survival of this important part of Ireland’s built heritage is of major concern to<br />
Government. <strong>Houses</strong> and owners vary in their needs and I welcome this study of a sample<br />
fifty of these historic houses and the outlining of the problems faced by each individual<br />
house, both private and in state ownership. The author, Dr. Terence Dooley, has produced a<br />
detailed and independent view of the situation.. This study will be an invaluable tool in the<br />
consideration and <strong>for</strong>mation of policy on the preservation and enhancement of our historic<br />
houses which will include consideration of the structures and legal frameworks which, in the<br />
light of international experience, might most effectively address our needs.<br />
I congratulate the <strong>Irish</strong> Georgian Society and the Department of the Environment, <strong>Heritage</strong><br />
and Local Government <strong>for</strong> the initiative shown in commissioning this in<strong>for</strong>mative and timely<br />
study.<br />
Bertie Ahern TD<br />
Taoiseach September 2003<br />
2
Acknowledgements<br />
The author would like to acknowledge the kind support of the officers and staff of the<br />
<strong>Irish</strong> Georgian Society, particularly Desmond FitzGerald Knight of Glin; Sir David<br />
Davies; Mary Bryan; Donough Cahill; Estelle Gittins, Lisa Lambert and Elspeth<br />
O’Neill; Dave Fadden and Liam O Connell of the Department of Environment,<br />
<strong>Heritage</strong> and Local Government; John Ducie, vice-chairman of An Taisce; Frank Carr<br />
of KPMG; those at Bord Fáilte and the <strong>Heritage</strong> Council who answered my numerous<br />
queries, and most particularly those house owners, managers, representatives and<br />
architects who so willingly gave of their time and offered much appreciated<br />
hospitality: Lord Altamont; Brian Bellew; Michael Bolton; Hon.Garech Browne;<br />
Charles Clements; Rebecca Cogan; John Coote; Martin Corrigan; Thomas Cosby;<br />
Jean Costello; Barbara Dawson; Lord Dunsany; Laurence Feeney; Bill Finlay,<br />
Desmond FitzGerald Knight of Glin; Mother Magdalena Fitzgibbon; Sir Josslyn and<br />
Lady Gore Booth; Major and Mrs. Hamilton; James Howley; Breda and Norman<br />
Ievers; Andrew Kavanagh; Brendan Kiernan; Susan Kellett; Margaret and Patrick<br />
Kelly; Knights of Columbanus [Billy Roe]; Eileen Lawlor; Samantha Leslie; Michael<br />
Lynch; John Madden; Lord and Lady Meath; Sean Moran; Lord Henry Mount<br />
Charles; Pyers O’ Conor Nash; Sir John and Lady Nugent; John O’Driscoll; Austin<br />
O’Sullivan; Thomas and Valerie Pakenham; Sandra Peavoy; Michael Penruddock;<br />
Alexander Perceval; Jim Reynolds; Lord Rosse; Sisters of Sion [Sister Phil]; Michael<br />
Sword; Mrs. Sidney Waddington; David Wall; Lord Water<strong>for</strong>d; Egerton Shelswell-<br />
White. Finally the author would like to express his gratitude to the National<br />
University of Ireland and to the Department of Modern History, National University<br />
of Ireland Maynooth.<br />
The author<br />
Dr. Terence Dooley is author of The decline of the big house in Ireland: a study of<br />
<strong>Irish</strong> landed families, 1860-1960 (2001). He is currently NUI Fellow in the<br />
Humanities, attached to the Department of Modern History, National University of<br />
Ireland Maynooth.<br />
3
Executive Summary<br />
Due to an amalgam of economic, political and social reasons, only a very small<br />
proportion of historic houses (defined in this study as the country and town houses of<br />
the <strong>Irish</strong> landed class) survive in Ireland today in the ownership of their original<br />
families. Others have passed into the ownership of the state or of institutions and<br />
organisations whereby their functions have changed radically from private residences<br />
to hotels, country house bed and breakfasts, schools and colleges, hospitals,<br />
government offices, and even a prison. Many more have disappeared completely from<br />
the <strong>Irish</strong> landscape having been burned during the revolutionary period 1920-23, or<br />
simply abandoned or demolished since the 1920s.<br />
The preservation of all remaining historic houses, as well as their contents and their<br />
surroundings, is now a national imperative. They provide the only architectural<br />
evidence of the intermediate historical period between the golden era of the landed<br />
class in the early eighteenth century and their gradual decline from the late nineteenth<br />
century. Their preservation need not be seen as a celebration of the landlord<br />
system that facilitated their construction but rather a celebration of the great<br />
artistic achievements of the architects who designed them and the everyday<br />
works of craftsmanship of those who embellished them.<br />
The importance of historic houses, their parks and gardens to <strong>Irish</strong> and European<br />
cultural heritage is now generally accepted. The <strong>Irish</strong> government, through its<br />
participation in the Granada Convention of 1985, has committed itself to safeguarding<br />
the built heritage of Ireland <strong>for</strong> the wider good of the future generations of Europeans.<br />
***<br />
This study set out to underscore the importance to Ireland’s heritage of the surviving<br />
historic houses in this country, to ascertain their current status, identify the potential<br />
threats to their future and make recommendations to safeguard that future.<br />
For this purpose fifty houses were selected. Four categories of houses were<br />
subsequently identified: those owned by the original families; those owned by the<br />
state; those owned by institutions and organisations and those in new private<br />
ownership (that is, houses more recently acquired by entrepreneurs and wealthy<br />
business people.)<br />
It was found that those owned by the original families are of particular importance<br />
because most of them retain at least some of their original contents, something that<br />
adds immeasurably to their historical integrity.<br />
The main body of this report finds the houses, with very few exceptions, are<br />
faced with difficulties which threaten their existence in the future unless<br />
immediate steps are taken to avert these threats.<br />
The state of the houses surveyed varies very much according to the funds which have<br />
been available to sustain their maintenance. Their present condition also varies greatly<br />
according to the levels of commitment which it was possible <strong>for</strong> previous generations<br />
to give to their conservation and restoration. The financial pressures on the original<br />
4
family owners of historic houses during the twentieth century has had dramatic<br />
conservational consequences. With very few exceptions, large areas of most of these<br />
houses have fallen into disrepair, simply because their owners have not been able to<br />
af<strong>for</strong>d conservation and restoration costs.<br />
While local authorities have made commendable ef<strong>for</strong>ts to restore houses and open<br />
them to the public, other state owned houses have been neglected. The required<br />
budgets necessary <strong>for</strong> ongoing maintenance has not consistently been made available<br />
to some of these houses. Thus, the present restoration problems facing houses such as<br />
Johnstown Castle or Tyrone House are now just as great and as costly as any privately<br />
owned house. Furthermore, because these houses underwent a change in functions<br />
(and this equally applies to institutionally owned houses), work was frequently carried<br />
out with very little regard <strong>for</strong> good conservation practice. Thus, the character and<br />
historic fabric of the houses suffered.<br />
The financial burden of day-to-day maintenance, conservation, and restoration<br />
of historic houses is now a major problem. The vast majority of owners claimed<br />
their houses presently require complex and extensive restoration and/or<br />
conservation work. The high cost of maintenance, in many instances, prevents it<br />
being properly carried out. Major restoration and conservation works are<br />
frequently beyond reach unless capital is raised through the sale of contents or of<br />
land. When the latter is resorted to it often compromises the cultural heritage<br />
value of the house and/or estate.<br />
The antidote to these difficulties to date has been based largely on fiscal concessions.<br />
Since the 1980s, much has been done to ease the taxation burden on historic house<br />
owners in Ireland. The most beneficial tax concession is commonly referred to as<br />
Section 482 that provides tax exemptions to owners who open their houses to the<br />
public <strong>for</strong> a specified number of days per annum. While this report recommends<br />
changes in the existing legislation to provide more flexibility <strong>for</strong> those most in need of<br />
exemptions, it finds that most future benefit should come from adequate grants<br />
effectively administered.<br />
***<br />
Another ongoing debate is whether in the interests of the heritage conservation<br />
objectives involved, the state should continue to acquire historic houses and<br />
associated properties which are coming onto the market. This debate has recently<br />
been fuelled by the proposed sale of Lissadell House in County Sligo. Expansion of<br />
the state’s portfolio of historic houses is highly problematic from both the<br />
perspectives of the initial capital expenditure involved and the longer-term recurrent<br />
expenditure implications of public presentation, maintenance and conservation. In this<br />
context, the issues of efficacy, feasibility and practicality of legislating <strong>for</strong> a national<br />
trust-type organisation to manage historic house properties and other heritage-type<br />
properties needs to be researched and analytically appraised from the public policy<br />
perspectives in the widest sense of costs and benefits.<br />
Ideally workable national trust legislation should be put in place to facilitate the<br />
identification, protection, conservation and presentation of the properties and<br />
their contents to the public. Such legislation would be based upon the installation<br />
5
of the principle of inalienability (whereby properties in its ownership could not<br />
be sold without an act of the Oireachtas) and the provision of favourable tax<br />
concessions to encourage owners to donate their properties and others to donate<br />
the funding that would be necessary to protect them into the future.<br />
The success of trusts established under such legislation would depend upon the calibre<br />
of the people engaged, their knowledge and understanding of the historic importance<br />
of the heritage properties in their care. It may also depend upon educating those who<br />
presently own or manage historic houses to appreciate the long-term benefits of trusts.<br />
The future of <strong>Irish</strong> historic houses is by no means secure. Unless concerted action<br />
is undertaken, a major component of the country’s architectural, historical and<br />
cultural heritage, at both local and national level, is in danger of being<br />
substantially lost <strong>for</strong>ever to the <strong>Irish</strong> people.<br />
6
Section 1. Compiling the Study<br />
1.1 Aims<br />
This report was commissioned by the <strong>Irish</strong> Georgian Society and sponsored by the<br />
Society and the Department of Environment, <strong>Heritage</strong> and Local Government to:<br />
- underscore the importance of historic houses to Ireland’s heritage<br />
- examine the current state of a sample group of fifty of these houses and to<br />
identify through interview the threats to their future<br />
- make recommendations regarding the steps necessary to safeguard all<br />
historic houses into the future as part of the country’s national heritage.<br />
1.2 Choice of houses and procedure<br />
Fifty historic houses were chosen as a sample group. Twenty-five are houses that<br />
continue in the ownership of the original families who built them; twelve are houses<br />
owned by the state (including local government authorities); seven are houses owned<br />
by organisations and institutions, while six are in new private ownership.<br />
The twenty-five houses in the ownership of the original families are:<br />
Ballinlough, Co. Westmeath; Bantry, Co. Cork; Barmeath, Co. Louth;<br />
Beaulieu, Co. Louth; Birr, Co. Offaly; Borris, Co. Carlow; Castle Leslie, Co.<br />
Monaghan; Clonalis, Co. Roscommon; Curraghmore, Co. Water<strong>for</strong>d;<br />
Dunsany, Co. Meath; Enniscoe, Co. Mayo; Glin Castle, Co. Limerick;<br />
Hamwood, Co. Meath; Hilton Park, Co. Monaghan; Killadoon, Co. Kildare;<br />
Kilruddery, Co. Wicklow; Lambay Castle, Co. Dublin; Lissadell, Co. Sligo;<br />
Lismore, Co. Water<strong>for</strong>d; Mount Ievers, Co. Clare; Slane, Co. Meath;<br />
Stradbally Hall, Co. Laois; Temple House, Co. Sligo; Tullynally, Co.<br />
Westmeath; Westport, Co. Mayo.<br />
The twelve houses owned by the state and local government authorities are:<br />
Ardgillan, Co. Dublin; Avondale, Co. Wicklow; Belvedere, Co. Westmeath;<br />
Ballyhaise, Co. Cavan; Charlemont, Dublin; Johnstown Castle, Co. Wex<strong>for</strong>d;<br />
King House, Co. Roscommon; Malahide, Co. Dublin; Newbridge, Co. Dublin;<br />
Rathfarnham Castle, Co. Dublin; Shelton Abbey, Co. Wicklow; Tyrone<br />
House, Dublin.<br />
The seven houses owned by organisations or institutions, six are:<br />
Aldborough House, Dublin; Bellinter, Co. Meath; Ely House, Dublin;<br />
Head<strong>for</strong>t, Co. Meath; Kylemore Abbey, Co. Galway; Russborough, Co.<br />
Wicklow; Townley Hall, Co. Louth.<br />
Finally, the six houses in new private ownership are:<br />
Abbeyleix, Co. Laois; Ballyfin, Co. Laois; Bellamont Forest, Co. Cavan;<br />
Ledwithstown, Co. Long<strong>for</strong>d; Luggala, Co. Wicklow; Strokestown Park, Co.<br />
Roscommon.<br />
7
Forty-eight owners or representatives were interviewed at length. The Hon. Garech<br />
Browne of Luggala agreed to a preliminary meeting but no follow up meeting<br />
subsequently took place. The representative of Lismore Castle provided in<strong>for</strong>mation<br />
by e-mail only.<br />
No set questionnaire was used. Such an approach would not have allowed the<br />
flexibility that was necessary given the different circumstances that face each<br />
individual house and individual owner. However, certain issues were targeted in all<br />
interviews including:<br />
- The historical importance of the house and its value to the cultural heritage<br />
of the country.<br />
- Conservation issues facing the house both in the short term and the long<br />
term.<br />
- Other potential sources of threat to the future of the house.<br />
- The steps that owners would like to see taken in order to combat these<br />
threats.<br />
The amount and nature of in<strong>for</strong>mation proffered by interviewees varied greatly.<br />
Appendix 2 contains a brief summary of findings <strong>for</strong> each house based on these<br />
interviews. It should be noted that the author of this report was solely dependent upon<br />
the in<strong>for</strong>mation supplied to him by owners/managers/representatives regarding the<br />
present state and future threats facing each house.<br />
It should also be noted that no attempt has been made to describe the valuable<br />
contents of individual houses. This would be inappropriate and unwise.<br />
1.3 Terminology<br />
The term ‘historic house’ is used throughout this report as a blanket term <strong>for</strong> the<br />
country and town houses used in the sample study.<br />
The term ‘country house’ is used to describe the country residences of <strong>Irish</strong> landlords<br />
(in the past more often referred to in this country as ‘big houses’.)<br />
The term ‘town house’ is taken to mean houses located in the city of Dublin that were<br />
originally built by <strong>Irish</strong> landlords as town residences.<br />
The term ‘representative’ is a term of convenience used to describe people involved in<br />
the running of state owned houses or houses owned by organisations, companies and<br />
so on or people such as architects who agreed to speak on behalf of the non-private<br />
owners.<br />
The term ‘in new private ownership’ is again a term of convenience. It refers to those<br />
owners drawn predominantly from the entrepreneurial or business classes (or in some<br />
cases the entertainment business) who have bought historic houses as private<br />
residences or with the intention of developing them as commercial enterprises.<br />
8
Section 2. <strong>Historic</strong>al Background<br />
At the beginning of the nineteenth century, a time synonymous with country house<br />
building in Ireland, there were approximately 8,000 to 10,000 landed proprietors in a<br />
population of around 5.4 million people. Possibly around one third of these were<br />
absentee landlords who resided more or less permanently outside the country. The<br />
remainder lived in country mansions, which they had built on their core estates. It is<br />
difficult to determine with certainty how many country houses there were in the<br />
twenty-six county area at this time, but the number certainly ran into thousands.<br />
The majority of houses (<strong>for</strong>ty-six) in this survey were country houses The other four<br />
houses (Aldborough, Charlemont, Ely and Tyrone) were town houses built by landed<br />
magnates who could af<strong>for</strong>d to do so in the eighteenth century and who spent much of<br />
their time in Dublin because of their involvement in pre-Union politics. By the latenineteenth<br />
century most of these town houses had passed out of the ownership of<br />
landlords who had largely retreated to the countryside after the passing of the Act of<br />
Union in 1800.<br />
The vast majority of historic houses (both country and town) were built during<br />
various periods of landlord prosperity from the early eighteenth century to the mid-<br />
1840s. There were also many more in existence that had been built prior to the<br />
eighteenth century - castles, <strong>for</strong> example, such as Dunsany and Rathfarnham - which<br />
were considerably remodelled or embellished during this same period.<br />
The building and subsequent maintenance of houses were, in the main, dependent<br />
upon the income derived from agricultural rents which these landlords drew from a<br />
mass of tenants to whom they let their estates in holdings of various sizes. Estates<br />
themselves varied greatly in size from the smallest at around 500 acres to those of<br />
landed magnates such as the Marquis Conyngham of Slane who, by the 1870s, owned<br />
almost 157,000 acres in Meath, Clare and Donegal.<br />
In the 1870s, the owners of the <strong>for</strong>ty-six country houses in the survey owned an<br />
aggregate of over 1.1 million acres between them, or an average of over 24,000 acres<br />
each. They were amongst the wealthiest families in Ireland. This wealth also<br />
bestowed upon them social elitism and political power at both local and national<br />
levels.<br />
The scale and grandeur of their houses reflected the economic and socio-political<br />
standing of <strong>Irish</strong> landlords. Decorated and furnished lavishly, the houses were<br />
showpieces built by their owners to inspire awe in their equals and deference in the<br />
lower classes. Eminent architects were employed to design them, the most skilled<br />
craftsmen and women to embellish them and an army of servants (both indoor and<br />
outdoor) to maintain the houses and their surrounding demesnes in great and often<br />
extravagant splendour.<br />
The majority of the country houses in this survey were amongst the largest houses of<br />
their time such as Ballyfin, Bantry, Birr, Curraghmore, Head<strong>for</strong>t, Kilruddery,<br />
Kylemore, Lismore, Russborough, Slane, Temple House, Tullynally and Westport.<br />
They were centred upon vast demesnes which usually were surrounded by high stone<br />
walls and comprised large home farms to keep the houses self-sufficient; kitchen<br />
9
gardens to service the families’ needs; ornamental gardens intricately designed and<br />
laid out <strong>for</strong> leisure purposes; woodland <strong>for</strong> privacy, the rearing of game and<br />
commercial use; parkland <strong>for</strong> the grazing of cattle; and a wide variety of outoffices <strong>for</strong><br />
the housing of animals or <strong>for</strong> the use of estate employees such as gardeners, masons<br />
and carpenters.<br />
Similarly, in their time, the town houses of Aldborough, Charlemont, Ely and Tyrone<br />
were amongst the grandest and most important houses in the city. They, too, were<br />
situated in extensive surroundings. Aldborough, <strong>for</strong> example, is regarded as the last<br />
great mansion to have been built in Dublin during its golden age in the second half of<br />
the eighteenth century. The scale and grandeur of the house and the size of its original<br />
gardens are said to have been unprecedented.<br />
To embellish their homes, <strong>Irish</strong> landlords toured the continent purchasing furniture<br />
and works of art. In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, <strong>Irish</strong> houses benefited<br />
from the increased impoverishment of the continental aristocracy. ‘Bargains’ were<br />
acquired in France, Italy, Poland, Germany, Russia and elsewhere, so that <strong>Irish</strong> houses<br />
became the repositories of fine art collections, silver, tapestries, china, porcelain,<br />
glass, furniture and so on. Until the early 1880s at least, heirlooms were settled to<br />
prevent heirs from selling them off, so that most houses were cluttered with valuable<br />
contents.<br />
The late 1870s initiated the decline of <strong>Irish</strong> landed estates and simultaneously historic<br />
houses. The reasons <strong>for</strong> this decline have already been set out by the author of this<br />
report in a book entitled, The Decline of the Big House in Ireland (2001). An<br />
overview will suffice here.<br />
From the mid-1850s, when the economy began to recover from the calamitous effects<br />
of the Great Famine, most <strong>Irish</strong> landlords indulged in a spending spree on the<br />
remodelling or embellishment of their existing houses and demesnes. They borrowed<br />
very heavily on the collateral strength of their estates. Many of these landlords had<br />
already inherited substantial debts from their ancestors but the booming economy that<br />
characterised most of the period from around 1853 to 1877 gave rise to a great deal of<br />
optimism that agricultural rents would in the future continue to sustain the repayment<br />
of debts and charges and the maintenance of opulent and leisured lifestyles <strong>for</strong><br />
landlords.<br />
However, this sense of optimism was misplaced. From the early 1880s, the political,<br />
economic and social decline of the landlord class coincided with the rise of the Land<br />
League and the Home Rule movements. The coincidence of economic depression,<br />
Land League agitation and government intervention in the fixing of ‘fair rents’ (which<br />
invariably meant lower rents) after the introduction of the 1881 Land Act led to a<br />
rather dramatic decline in rental income. The Settled Land Act of 1882 acknowledged<br />
the need of landlords to sell off their heirlooms in order to meet their charges. The<br />
passing of this act began the process of stripping <strong>Irish</strong> houses of their valuable<br />
contents. It was a process that was to continue during the remainder of the nineteenth<br />
and most of the twentieth centuries.<br />
As levels of indebtedness increased from the early 1880s, many landlords began to<br />
sell off parts of their landed estates particularly their outlying estates that were located<br />
10
a distance from their houses. In 1903, the Wyndham Land Act promoted the sale of<br />
landed estates on a revolutionary scale because of its generous terms to landlords (it<br />
offered them a 12 per cent cash bonus on the sale of their estates) and to tenants (it<br />
guaranteed them that annuities repayable on loans advanced to purchase their<br />
holdings would be less that their previous rents.) Landlords received colossal sums of<br />
money, particularly those who owned extensive estates. The King Harmans, <strong>for</strong><br />
example, whose ancestors originally owned King House in Boyle be<strong>for</strong>e moving to<br />
Rockingham, sold around 70,000 acres <strong>for</strong> over £625,000 or roughly £31.25 million<br />
in today’s terms.<br />
After debts and estate charges had been paid, many of the larger landlords were left<br />
with significant capital sums to invest. Most also retained their demesnes and other<br />
tracts of untenanted lands <strong>for</strong> farming purposes. Had not other factors intervened, they<br />
might very well have continued to live rather opulent lifestyles.<br />
These factors included World War I which had at least a psychological effect on the<br />
(<strong>for</strong>mer) landed class; the revolutionary period which followed in Ireland from 1917<br />
to 1923 that resulted in the malicious burning of around 300 country houses and the<br />
abandonment of many more; the post-war worldwide economic depression that<br />
decimated the investment portfolio of most country house owners and which<br />
culminated in the Wall Street Crash of 1929; and the introduction of Free State land<br />
legislation from 1923, the primary aim of which was the compulsory acquisition of<br />
the remaining lands of country house owners.<br />
To compound all of this, the simultaneous and rather dramatic increase in the level of<br />
rates from the 1920s, exacting taxation, particularly in the <strong>for</strong>m of succession duties,<br />
and the Wealth Tax of 1974 all combined to drive owners to sell their houses,<br />
abandon them or strip them of their remaining contents.<br />
For decades after independence, government policy did nothing to alleviate the plight<br />
of the owners of historic houses or to acknowledge the cultural heritage significance<br />
of their homes. For example, houses taken over by the <strong>Irish</strong> Land Commission were<br />
demolished or simply left to fall into ruins. More lamentable still was that houses<br />
gifted to the state, such as Muckross, were left <strong>for</strong> decades to fall into disrepair be<strong>for</strong>e<br />
their worth was recognised. When houses such as Castletown, regarded as being of<br />
great international importance, faced imminent demolition, no official concern was<br />
expressed. It was left to the ef<strong>for</strong>ts of individuals and the <strong>Irish</strong> Georgian Society to<br />
save it.<br />
The prevailing conventional wisdom in the <strong>Irish</strong> state of the twentieth century was,<br />
there<strong>for</strong>e, unkind to historic houses. The destruction, abandonment and sale of<br />
hundreds of them continued <strong>for</strong> the most part unabated. From the 1920s to at least the<br />
1980s, historic houses tended to be bought by organisations, institutions, the state or<br />
local authorities that all had damaging utilitarian plans <strong>for</strong> their adaptation and usage.<br />
Many houses became hospitals, factories, schools, prisons and so on, with obvious<br />
consequences <strong>for</strong> their original integrity. There is probably no more than about fifty of<br />
the great houses remaining in the ownership of their original families. Most of these<br />
have had at least some of their valuable contents dispersed throughout the world,<br />
while the vast majority of those that have been purchased by the state, institutions,<br />
organisations and individuals have scarcely any of their original contents in situ.<br />
11
The decline has slowed, however, since the mid-1980s largely as a result of a change<br />
in attitudes. A number of advantageous fiscal changes have been introduced. The<br />
praiseworthy ef<strong>for</strong>ts of various voluntary and public bodies such as the <strong>Irish</strong> Georgian<br />
Society, An Taisce, the <strong>Heritage</strong> Council, the Government <strong>Heritage</strong> Service and<br />
various county councils have also been important.<br />
12
Section 3. Survey Findings<br />
3.1 Present function of the fifty historic houses surveyed<br />
Essentially there are four categories of historic houses that have survived in Ireland:<br />
- <strong>Houses</strong> which have remained in the ownership of the original families and<br />
which continue to function as private residences.<br />
- <strong>Houses</strong> which have been bought by members of the wealthy business<br />
classes with the intention of using them as private residences or converting<br />
them <strong>for</strong> a variety of commercial uses.<br />
- <strong>Houses</strong> which have been bought by companies, organisations and<br />
institutions and are used <strong>for</strong> a variety of purposes such as hotels, country<br />
and golf clubs, hospitals, schools, and so on.<br />
- <strong>Houses</strong> which have been taken over by the state or local authorities and<br />
again which are used <strong>for</strong> a variety of purposes such as colleges, prisons, art<br />
galleries and state department offices.<br />
Of the fifty houses surveyed, twenty-five belong to the original families. Of this<br />
number:<br />
- Thirteen operate solely as private family residences. They are maintained<br />
usually by farm income or private income or in some cases the commercial<br />
exploitation of demesnes and gardens. They are:<br />
o Barmeath, Co. Louth<br />
o Beaulieu, Co. Louth<br />
o Birr, Co. Offaly<br />
o Borris, Co. Carlow<br />
o Curraghmore, Co. Water<strong>for</strong>d<br />
o Dunsany, Co. Meath<br />
o Hamwood, Co. Meath<br />
o Killadoon, Co. Kildare<br />
o Kilruddery, Co. Wicklow<br />
o Lambay Castle, Co. Dublin<br />
o Lissadell, Co. Sligo<br />
o Mount Ievers, Co. Clare<br />
o Stradbally, Co. Laois<br />
- In the case of the other twelve houses, the reduction of land below a viable<br />
level has meant that house owners have had to seek alternative means of<br />
supporting the running of their houses. There<strong>for</strong>e, these twelve houses<br />
combine the role of private family residence with a variety of other functions,<br />
particularly country house accommodation. Some of them are associated with<br />
the Blue Book or Hidden Ireland organisations, essentially marketing<br />
organisations <strong>for</strong>med by historic house owners and others to attract people to<br />
stay in unusual houses of interest. Other historic house owners have had their<br />
outoffices developed into accommodation centres; some have even let parts of<br />
their houses to tenants; while others have branched into such diverse activities<br />
as opening leisure parks, hosting annual rock concerts and so on. These houses<br />
are:<br />
13
o Ballinlough, Co. Westmeath<br />
o Bantry, Co. Cork<br />
o Castle Leslie, Co. Monaghan<br />
o Clonalis, Co. Roscommon<br />
o Enniscoe, Co. Mayo<br />
o Glin Castle, Co. Limerick<br />
o Hilton Park, Co. Monaghan<br />
o Lismore, Co. Water<strong>for</strong>d<br />
o Slane, Co. Meath<br />
o Temple House, Co. Sligo<br />
o Tullynally, Co. Westmeath<br />
o Westport, Co. Mayo<br />
Of the fifty houses, twelve more are owned by the state. They are:<br />
- Avondale, Co. Wicklow, run by Coillte as a Charles Stewart Parnell<br />
museum.<br />
- Ardgillan, Co. Dublin, owned by Fingal County Council and open to the<br />
public.<br />
- Ballyhaise, Co. Cavan, run by Teagasc as an agricultural college.<br />
- Belvedere, Co. Westmeath, owned by Westmeath County Council and<br />
open to the public.<br />
- Charlemont, Dublin, owned by the state and functions as the Hugh Lane<br />
Art Gallery.<br />
- Johnstown Castle, Co. Wex<strong>for</strong>d, run by Teagasc as an agricultural centre.<br />
- King House, Co. Roscommon, owned by Roscommon County Council and<br />
open to the public.<br />
- Malahide Castle, Co. Dublin, owned by Fingal County Council and open<br />
to the public.<br />
- Newbridge, Co. Dublin, owned by Fingal County Council and open to the<br />
public.<br />
- Rathfarnham Castle, Co. Dublin, a designated national monument, owned<br />
by the state and open to the public.<br />
- Shelton Abbey, Co. Wicklow run by the Department of Justice as an open<br />
prison.<br />
- Tyrone House, Dublin, used by the Department of Education and Science<br />
as offices.<br />
Of the fifty houses, seven are owned by a variety of organisations and institutions and<br />
fulfil a variety of roles:<br />
- Aldborough, Dublin, is owned by the <strong>Irish</strong> Music Rights Organisation.<br />
- Bellinter, Co. Meath, owned by the Sisters of Sion and run as a convent<br />
and conference and retreat centre.<br />
- Ely House, Dublin, owned by the Knights of Columbanus and run as their<br />
headquarters (although parts of it are used as offices by Fás, while the<br />
basement functions as a Thai restaurant.)<br />
- Head<strong>for</strong>t, Co. Meath, is owned by a board of trustees and is run as a<br />
school.<br />
- Kylemore, Co. Galway, is owned by the Benedictine nuns and run as an<br />
international boarding school and a tourist centre.<br />
14
- Russborough, Co. Wicklow, is owned by the Alfred Beit Foundation.<br />
- Townley Hall, Co. Louth, owned by the School of Philosophy and<br />
Economic Science and run as a school and retreat centre.<br />
Finally, of the fifty houses, six are in new private ownership:<br />
- Abbeyleix is owned by the Abbeyleix Group Ltd. and it is used as a<br />
family residence by Sir David Davies.<br />
- Ballyfin, Co. Laois, has recently been purchased from the Patrician<br />
Brothers by Ballyfin Demesne Company, which has plans to develop it as<br />
a hotel.<br />
- Bellamont Forest is owned by John Coote who uses it as a family<br />
residence.<br />
- Ledwithstown is owned by Laurence Feeney who uses it as a family<br />
residence.<br />
- Luggala is owned by Garech Browne who uses it as a family residence.<br />
- Strokestown Park, Co. Roscommon, is owned by Jim Callary of Westward<br />
Holdings Ltd and is open to the public. The <strong>for</strong>mer outoffices have been<br />
converted into the National Famine Museum.<br />
3.2 Cultural heritage importance<br />
Traditionally there was a marked dichotomy in <strong>Irish</strong> society between the minority<br />
who viewed historic houses as the creations of master architects and craftsmen,<br />
cultural artefacts worth preserving <strong>for</strong> future generations, and the majority who would<br />
quite gladly have seen them razed to the ground because they perceived them to be<br />
symbols of hundreds of years of colonial oppression at the hands of usurping<br />
landlords who shared none of the cultural, religious or political beliefs of the native<br />
population.<br />
It is probably safe to conclude that the majority have now become the minority and<br />
arguably the worst times <strong>for</strong> these houses are over from the point of view of public<br />
awareness and political enmity. Since the 1980s, governments have taken significant<br />
steps in this direction through the introduction of fiscal changes, legislative provisions<br />
to protect the built heritage through the planning code, the provision of an<br />
architectural heritage advisory service and through the establishment of the National<br />
Inventory of Architectural <strong>Heritage</strong> on a statutory basis. A programme of grant<br />
assistance has been set up and conservation officers have been appointed to many<br />
local authorities. (However, it should be noted that the resources which are being<br />
dedicated to the fund <strong>for</strong> conservation grants is very modest and the continued<br />
employment of conservation officers in those local authorities which have them in<br />
place is under threat because of financial constraints.)<br />
Much of this progress has been influenced by wider European and world<br />
developments. For example, the UNESCO Convention concerning the protection of<br />
the World Cultural and Natural <strong>Heritage</strong>, drawn up in 1972 and ratified by Ireland in<br />
1991, recognises it is the duty of the state to preserve, conserve and transmit this<br />
heritage to future generations. In 1985, the Council of Europe at Granada drew up<br />
regulations <strong>for</strong> the protection of the architectural heritage of Europe. This was also<br />
15
atified by Ireland in 1997 and two years later legislation to implement the convention<br />
was put into place.<br />
Similarly, at local level, community councils (such as Crossmolina with regard to<br />
Enniscoe, Co. Mayo) and local government authorities (such as Fingal County<br />
Council, Roscommon County Council and Westmeath County Council in regard to<br />
Ardgillan, Newbridge, Malahide, King House and Belvedere) now regard houses as<br />
significant local tourist attractions.<br />
Finally, most owners themselves commented upon the fact that they have seen a<br />
considerable change in attitude towards their houses since the 1980s. One owner<br />
summarised the gradual change as follows:<br />
‘I’ve lived through public desire to pull the place down, through indifference,<br />
through reluctant acceptance that it should stand, to a desire to preserve it, and<br />
now at last we are seeing an acceptance that it really is important <strong>Irish</strong><br />
workmanship.’<br />
Thus the more prevailing attitude today is that it is right to embrace the legacies of the<br />
past and to view these houses as cultural heritage artefacts, without necessarily<br />
condoning the landlord system that facilitated their building. Indeed, <strong>for</strong> those who<br />
remain to be convinced, sight should not be lost of the fact that it is just as important<br />
to keep a record of a darker past as it is of a golden past.<br />
If these houses are to be preserved into the future, it is imperative that they be<br />
recognised as an integral part of the shared heritage of this country and, indeed, to<br />
view them in light of what they have to offer in cultural heritage terms to Europe and<br />
the world.<br />
Architecturally, the surviving historic houses in Ireland are of national and European<br />
importance:<br />
o Ballyhaise, Bellinter, Belvedere, Ledwithstown, Strokestown Park,<br />
Tyrone House and Westport were all designed by Richard Castle;<br />
Johnstown Castle was designed by Daniel Robertson, perhaps more<br />
renowned <strong>for</strong> his design of Powerscourt Gardens; William and<br />
Vitruvius Morrison were involved in the design or embellishment<br />
of Ballyfin, Borris and Kilruddery (where the domed ceiling was<br />
after designs by Inigo Jones and the <strong>for</strong>ecourt by Daniel<br />
Robertson); Edwin Lutyens designed Lambay Castle; George<br />
Semple designed Head<strong>for</strong>t; John and Isaac Rothery were both<br />
involved in the design of Mount Ievers; James Wyatt and Francis<br />
Johnson were both involved in the design of Slane, with possible<br />
input also from James Gandon, Thomas Hopper and Capability<br />
Brown.<br />
o Aldborough House was the last great mansion to be built in Dublin<br />
City during the second half of the eighteenth century. At the time,<br />
it was regarded as a house of unprecedented grandeur.<br />
o Ballyfin has been described as Ireland’s most lavishly appointed<br />
early nineteenth-century house.<br />
o Beaulieu, built in the 1660s, is regarded as being one of the first<br />
country houses to be built in Ireland without <strong>for</strong>tification. Almost<br />
16
all the known examples of houses of this type and period have now<br />
vanished. There<strong>for</strong>e, Beaulieu is unique in that it provides an<br />
example of a house that was built at a major turning point in the<br />
development of <strong>Irish</strong> architectural design.<br />
o Dunsany, one of the oldest surviving country houses in Ireland,<br />
dating back over 800 years, has been reshaped and remodelled over<br />
successive generations, so that it provides a microcosmic insight to<br />
the changing tastes and fashions of country house owners from the<br />
beginning of their building to recent times.<br />
o The Gothic Church at Kylemore (built 1877-81) is of international<br />
importance, described as ‘a cathedral in miniature’ as it<br />
incorporates elements adapted from some of the finest English<br />
cathedrals of the Decorated Era 1180-1215.<br />
o Lambay Castle, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, is generally<br />
regarded as one of the most important twentieth-century buildings<br />
in the country. Lutyens, who is acknowledged as one of the most<br />
important international architects of the late nineteenth, early<br />
twentieth centuries, also designed the surrounding landscape. His<br />
involvement with both house and landscape, there<strong>for</strong>e, makes<br />
Lambay rather unique. It is, in fact, only one of five Lutyen houses<br />
still in the ownership of the original families.<br />
o Ledwithstown, Co. Long<strong>for</strong>d, is a very small, important eighteenthcentury<br />
house, probably by Richard Castle. While it is little known<br />
in Ireland, its international importance has been recognised by<br />
Steven Parissien who included it as his only <strong>Irish</strong> house in his book<br />
Palladian Style (London, 1994).<br />
o Townley Hall in Louth is widely regarded as Francis Johnson’s<br />
Classical masterpiece.<br />
o Tullynally was originally designed by Graham Myers (who<br />
designed Trinity College, Dublin) but Francis Johnson, James<br />
Shiel, Richard Morrison and J. Rowlson Carroll were all involved<br />
in its remodelling at later stages.<br />
o Tyrone House, built in the 1740s, is reputedly one of Richard<br />
Castle’s first town houses and is the earliest and most important<br />
example of his work to be built entirely of stone.<br />
o A number of important architects were involved in different stages<br />
of the design of Westport House including Richard Castle and<br />
Thomas Ivory (born in Co. Cork.) The delicate Adam-style<br />
plasterwork in the dining-room is regarded as being among the best<br />
examples of James Wyatt’s work surviving in Ireland.<br />
After they were built, these houses were embellished by craftsmen some of whom<br />
were British or European but many more of whom were <strong>Irish</strong> and who had learned<br />
their skills possibly training under some of the visiting international craftsmen. Thus,<br />
<strong>Irish</strong> historic houses are perhaps the most important surviving evidence of the artistic<br />
capabilities of native craftsmen of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (and in<br />
some cases earlier):<br />
o The principal rooms at Head<strong>for</strong>t were designed by Robert Adam.<br />
This is his only country house work to have survived in its entirety<br />
in Ireland. The importance of the Adam interiors at Head<strong>for</strong>t is<br />
17
emphasised by the fact that the World Monument Fund is presently<br />
considering listing Head<strong>for</strong>t as one of its 100 most endangered sites<br />
in the world.<br />
o The oval room at Ballyhaise, designed by Richard Castle, is<br />
possibly the earliest surviving room of its kind in the British Isles.<br />
o The coved ceilings at Curraghmore are the work of the<br />
internationally-renowned Francini brothers, while the delicate<br />
plasterwork in the dining-room has been attributed to Antonio<br />
Zucchi or his wife, Angelica Kauffman.<br />
o The Francini brothers were also involved in the embellishment of<br />
Tyrone House.<br />
o The plasterwork on the ceilings at Dunsany and Ely House is<br />
attributed to Michael Stapleton, possibly the most famous <strong>Irish</strong><br />
stuccodore of his time.<br />
o A. W. N. Pugin designed the banqueting hall at Lismore.<br />
o Malahide, described as the most distinguished of all <strong>Irish</strong> castles,<br />
contains the only surviving great hall in Ireland to have retained its<br />
original <strong>for</strong>m.<br />
o The ceilings at Belvedere are possibly the work of Barthelemij<br />
Cramillion, a renowned French stuccodore, who designed the<br />
ceilings of Mespil House in Dublin, which after its demolition in<br />
1952, were removed to Aras an Uachtarain.<br />
o The neo-Classical plasterwork, front hall and inter-locking<br />
staircase at Glin are of major architectural importance.<br />
Where contents are intact, they offer a remarkable insight to the evolution of a house<br />
over succeeding generations dating back to the eighteenth century and sometimes<br />
be<strong>for</strong>e. It should be emphasised that it is not the value of individual pieces that is<br />
important but rather their cumulative significance:<br />
o In houses such as Birr, Clonalis and Glin, the history of <strong>Irish</strong><br />
furniture, silver, glass and painting as well as craftsmanship is<br />
elucidated.<br />
o At Bantry, there is an extremely important collection of French,<br />
Flemish and <strong>Irish</strong> furniture, Gobelin tapestries, and Savannerie<br />
carpets.<br />
o The collection of contents at Birr distinguishes it as one of the most<br />
important houses in Ireland.<br />
o Clonalis, one of the few houses to remain in the ownership of a<br />
Gaelic landowning family, contains a veritable treasure trove of<br />
<strong>Irish</strong> antiquaries dating back well over 500 years. It houses an<br />
invaluable archive that contains over 100,000 letters from people<br />
such as Napper Tandy, Daniel O’Connell, Charles Stewart Parnell,<br />
William E. Gladstone and so on.<br />
o Very important family archive collections are also housed in<br />
Barmeath, Birr, Borris, Kilruddery and Stradbally. These archives<br />
do not merely in<strong>for</strong>m regarding the landed family; they tell us<br />
much about the social, economic and political history of a whole<br />
local area, and often of the country as a whole.<br />
18
It is not just the houses themselves that are important. The whole context of their<br />
setting needs to be considered as the exterior surroundings of houses add to the<br />
overall integrity. It is important to recognise that historic parks, gardens and<br />
demesnes are all an important component of national heritage, rich in the<br />
arboricultural, archaeological and horticultural legacy of previous generations.<br />
The very nature of Ireland’s climate allows <strong>for</strong> the growth of a variety and richness of<br />
plants that are associated with other climates, be it arctic, temperate, Mediterranean or<br />
tropical. This makes many of the gardens attached to historic properties of great<br />
international importance. For example:<br />
o The gardens at Birr Castle are regarded as being scientifically the<br />
most important outside the Botanical Gardens in Dublin.<br />
o The undulating landscape at Ballyfin remains among the finest in<br />
Ireland.<br />
o The eighteenth-century gardens at Barmeath were designed by<br />
Thomas Wright. The whole demesne has been designated an area<br />
of specific scientific interest.<br />
o The nineteenth-century gardens at Belvedere were the work of<br />
Ninian Niven.<br />
o Curraghmore belongs to the era of composed parkland layouts<br />
from 1760 to 1840, other examples of which have since<br />
disappeared under golf courses and other <strong>for</strong>ms of development.<br />
o The gardens at Kilruddery, reputedly laid out in the 1680s, are the<br />
oldest <strong>for</strong>mal gardens in Ireland to have retained their original<br />
design and are of great horticultural importance.<br />
o The gardens at Lismore are believed to be amongst the oldest in<br />
Ireland and they retain much of their original Jacobean <strong>for</strong>m.<br />
o The gardens at Newbridge were designed by Charles Frizzell, a<br />
member of the famous eighteenth-century Wex<strong>for</strong>d land surveying<br />
family.<br />
Finally, <strong>Irish</strong> historic houses have strong associations with internationally renowned<br />
politicians, military figures, adventurers, explorers, academics, literary figures and so<br />
on. For example:<br />
o Avondale was the ancestral home of Charles Stewart Parnell<br />
(1846-91), the most prominent nationalist leader of the late<br />
nineteenth century, at one time chairman of the <strong>Irish</strong> parliamentary<br />
party and president of the <strong>Irish</strong> National Land League.<br />
o In the early twentieth century, Belvedere was home to Col. Charles<br />
Howard-Bury, a member of the first European expedition to Mount<br />
Everest in 1921.<br />
o Sir Shane Leslie of Castle Leslie, author and Celtic revivalist, was<br />
a first cousin of British prime minister, Sir Winston Churchill, and<br />
godson of Sir Randolph Churchill who was closely associated with<br />
the foundation of the Ulster Unionist movement.<br />
o Dunsany was home to the 18 th Lord Dunsany, Edward Plunkett,<br />
prolific writer and prominent figure in the <strong>Irish</strong> Revival Movement.<br />
His uncle, Sir Horace Plunkett, agricultural re<strong>for</strong>mer and founder<br />
of the <strong>Irish</strong> Co-operative Movement was also closely associated<br />
with the house.<br />
19
o Lisadell was home to the Gore Booth sisters, Eva and Constance<br />
(Countess Markievicz), and was associated with the poet, W. B.<br />
Yeats.<br />
o Lismore Castle and lands were once owned by Sir Walter Raleigh,<br />
Elizabethan adventurer.<br />
However, it should be considered that it has not always been easy <strong>for</strong> a house owner<br />
in Ireland to advertise the political and or military connections of his/her family or the<br />
role that they played in the British Empire.<br />
3.3 Conservation issues<br />
3.3 (i) <strong>Houses</strong> in the ownership of original families<br />
In the past expert groups both in Ireland and in Britain have argued that the retention<br />
of houses in the ownership of the original families is the most effective and cheapest<br />
way of conserving them. The original families interviewed believe this to be very<br />
much still the case. It is undoubtedly true that when the state takes over an historic<br />
house, the public become more demanding with regard to their expectations of how<br />
the house should look, what it should contain and so on. Furthermore, people have to<br />
be employed to carry out work that in the past was done voluntarily by the owner<br />
families. Family owners would contend, there<strong>for</strong>e, that financial assistance to them<br />
would be much more cost effective and involve lower demands on the exchequer<br />
relative to the option of taking their houses into public ownership.<br />
Family owners would also contend, with some justification, that their houses should<br />
be accorded priority attention because most of them retain substantial collections of<br />
original contents, unlike most state owned and institutionally owned houses. A<br />
collection of original contents adds immeasurably to the historic fabric and cultural<br />
importance of a house. Thus, if the government is contemplating the purchase of<br />
an historic house on behalf of the state it should give serious consideration to the<br />
desirability of also purchasing its contents and appurtenances.<br />
Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, the financial pressures during the twentieth century on original family<br />
owners has had dramatic conservational consequences <strong>for</strong> the historic houses in their<br />
possession. With very few exceptions, large areas of most of these houses have been<br />
allowed to fall into disrepair. This is at least partly because most are over 200 years<br />
old but there are other factors involved: a decline in family <strong>for</strong>tunes allied to an<br />
exacting tax regime be<strong>for</strong>e the 1980s has meant that their owners have not been able<br />
to af<strong>for</strong>d restoration work or annual expenditure on their upkeep or the employment<br />
of large staffs that are necessary to maintain them; in a changing social, political and<br />
economic climate the post-independence generation of owners became apathetic<br />
towards the maintenance of their houses; most houses became anachronisms in<br />
twentieth-century rural Ireland, much too large <strong>for</strong> the needs of their owners, so that<br />
large areas of them were closed off as the families reduced their living quarters to one<br />
wing, one storey and so on. The result has been that most of the present generation<br />
inherited what one owner referred to as ‘huge derelict monsters.’<br />
20
The present condition of these also varies greatly according to the levels of<br />
commitment which it was possible <strong>for</strong> previous generations to give to their<br />
conservation and restoration. In addition the future scenario related to the issue of<br />
commitment can be bleak. As an owner put it: ‘I think it involves a huge amount of<br />
work…. It isn’t necessarily going to be someone else’s cup of tea after me to do it. I<br />
think it alternates.’<br />
It is also true that the present condition of these houses reflects negatively upon<br />
government fiscal policy that up to the 1980s made it very difficult <strong>for</strong> owners to<br />
attempt to address restoration and conservation issues. Fiscal and other changes since<br />
then - which have provided at least some incentive to invest money in restoration and<br />
conservation - have meant that the present generation of owners are arguably more<br />
committed to the preservation of their houses than their predecessors.<br />
One of the most fundamental problems facing present owners is related to the fact that<br />
as private houses they are much too large <strong>for</strong> ordinary family residences and much too<br />
expensive to maintain on a private income. Temple House in Sligo, to take but one<br />
example, has more than ninety rooms and even though it operates as a guesthouse,<br />
only about 30 per cent of the house is actually in use. Because owners, either by<br />
choice or by necessity, are neglecting large areas of their houses such as the<br />
basements, top storeys (usually <strong>for</strong>mer servants’ quarters), wings and towers, this is<br />
causing serious long term problems <strong>for</strong> the whole fabric of the house. Neglect leads to<br />
dry rot, wet rot and so on invading large areas and spreading rapidly. The resulting<br />
deterioration exacerbates the maintenance problems.<br />
Nearly all owners claimed that at least part(s) of their houses required some major<br />
restoration or conservation work. For the majority of owners, restoration is going to<br />
be a very expensive and long drawn out process. The small number of houses in good<br />
order or likely to have their problems remedied in the short term include Beaulieu,<br />
Glin Castle and Slane, all of which are having or have had very significant sums of<br />
money spent on restoration.<br />
An indication of the restoration and conservation problems facing each individual<br />
house is given in Appendix II. The most common and most expensive restoration<br />
problems facing owners relate to roofs. There are owners who have been faced with<br />
bills of up to €650,000 <strong>for</strong> the repair of their roofs. Some who have been unable to<br />
af<strong>for</strong>d this type of capital outlay have carried out temporary repairs that are crude and<br />
in the long term will possibly do more harm than good. There is an ongoing struggle<br />
against leaks coming through valleys, gutters, roof windows and chimneystacks.<br />
Damaged and leaking roofs cause incalculable problems to the interior fabric as a<br />
result of damp, which is the cause of the most common problems found in historic<br />
houses and the principal cause of decay. Damp softens timbers and it weakens the<br />
physical composition of materials. Consequently, plasterwork is destroyed, ceilings<br />
cave in, wallpaper is damaged and so on. Most houses have several areas of dry rot<br />
and/or wet rot. There are rooms in houses such as Castle Leslie that are in an<br />
advanced state of dereliction where plaster ceilings have collapsed and floor joists and<br />
flooring have rotted.<br />
Windows are another ubiquitous problem. Well-maintained and easily opened<br />
windows are essential <strong>for</strong> ventilation, which plays an important role in the healthy<br />
21
condition of an historic house. Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, many houses seem to have windows<br />
that cannot be opened.<br />
Other houses now suffer from improvements carried out in the nineteenth century<br />
when, <strong>for</strong> example, steel lintels were put into windows, which have subsequently<br />
rusted and expanded putting pressure on the surrounding brickwork and stone facings<br />
that now have to be replaced.<br />
The present planning laws as stipulated under the Planning and Development Act<br />
2000 rightly enhanced the powers of planning authorities and increased the<br />
responsibilities upon owners and occupiers of historic houses to retain their character<br />
and fabric. However, there remain a number of issues that require attention:<br />
- There are still some owners who do not believe in seeking planning<br />
permission be<strong>for</strong>e they carry out work on their houses. There needs to be a<br />
mechanism to ensure closer observation of work on historic houses,<br />
particularly those in private ownership.<br />
- There are owners who complain of the fact that the current planning laws<br />
are too restrictive. They fear what they call ‘the purists’ whom they<br />
believe will put the actual houses be<strong>for</strong>e the ability of the families to live<br />
in them. Under the present planning legislation, there needs to be a<br />
mechanism <strong>for</strong> a review body allowing owners a degree of flexibility<br />
where there is dispute over preserving the integrity of the building or<br />
developing it in a way that will allow <strong>for</strong> a greater degree of commercial<br />
use that is necessary to sustain the house. Each application needs to be<br />
looked at on an individual basis.<br />
- Fire officers are those who have come in <strong>for</strong> most criticism. ‘Get the fire<br />
officer off our backs’ was the comment from one owner who complained,<br />
with some justification, that the local fire officer was insisting on the<br />
installation of glass-panelled fire doors in the basement of a house<br />
designed by Richard Castle. The basement has Castle’s characteristic<br />
vaulted ceilings, the integrity of which would, arguably, be compromised<br />
by the fire doors.<br />
- Owners and managers are widely of the opinion that there should be a joint<br />
planning authority <strong>for</strong> historic houses. There is a worrying perception<br />
amongst some owners that planning laws are full of ambiguities and that<br />
they are being interpreted differently in different counties.<br />
In summary, conservation issues vary from house to house, although most are faced<br />
with short-term and long-term problems including the need to:<br />
- Repair roofs, gutters and chimneystacks.<br />
- Replace or restore windows.<br />
- Eradicate dry or wet rot.<br />
- Address damage caused to interiors by damp such as damaged ceilings or<br />
plasterwork on walls by water ingress.<br />
- Repair pointing in stonework to address the damp penetration problem.<br />
- Replace dangerous electrical installations.<br />
- Overhaul archaic plumbing systems.<br />
- Provide a general cosmetic overhaul to interiors.<br />
- Restore and develop outside gardens, woodlands and parklands.<br />
22
- Repair estate walls and garden walls.<br />
- Address the problem of collapsed or collapsing outoffices.<br />
To carry out works of this nature requires a great deal of expert guidance and advice.<br />
Guidance and advice are very costly. One owner recently received a bill <strong>for</strong><br />
professional fees of €150,000 from an architect to carry out work on a roof estimated<br />
to cost around €650,000. He was also faced with other massive charges such as over<br />
€135,000 <strong>for</strong> scaffolding. One owner claimed that: ‘There is no difficulty in obtaining<br />
appropriately skilled staff <strong>for</strong> the maintenance of heritage properties; there is only a<br />
difficulty in paying them.’<br />
Because annual maintenance costs are so high, ongoing investment in vital<br />
conservation and restoration work is not always possible. Heating costs, <strong>for</strong> example,<br />
are enormous and most owners complain that they simply cannot af<strong>for</strong>d to heat all of<br />
their houses over an extended period of time. The problem here is largely an historical<br />
one. The original builders anticipated at the time that fires would be lit in every room<br />
throughout the year. Nowadays that is as impracticable as it is unaf<strong>for</strong>dable so that it<br />
is only parts of houses that are generally heated on a regular basis. This, in turn, has<br />
repercussions <strong>for</strong> their conservation. Where temperatures are not appropriate, some<br />
artefacts will deteriorate and/or the fabric of the house will suffer. Thus, an historic<br />
house can be the antithesis of a well-run museum; it can often be the worst place to<br />
house artefacts that require a certain room temperature to preserve them.<br />
For private owners restoration is not simply a question of money alone, although this<br />
is the major factor, it is also a question of time. A practical approach to restoration is<br />
required but this can be very frustrating to the present generation of owners who<br />
simply cannot see their houses being restored in their lifetime, at least not without<br />
significant financial subsidies.<br />
3.3 (ii) <strong>Houses</strong> in state ownership<br />
In the past, various government departments and local authorities have expended large<br />
sums of money on certain historic houses in their keeping. More recently, since the<br />
early 1980s, Westmeath County Council has expended an estimated €5.7 million<br />
(funded through the European Regional Development Fund) on the restoration of<br />
Belvedere House and gardens. In the last year or so, around €4 million was spent by<br />
the Department of Justice on the restoration of Shelton Abbey in County Wicklow,<br />
which is now used as an open prison. Farmleigh, upon which an estimated €12 million<br />
was spent on restoration, represents the government’s most costly project.<br />
However, in earlier times be<strong>for</strong>e the introduction of proper planning laws, work was<br />
carried out in many state owned houses with very little regard <strong>for</strong> good conservation<br />
practice. The character and fabric of historic houses suffered greatly as they were<br />
converted from residences into office blocks, prisons, educational institutions and so<br />
on. Interventions were particularly un<strong>for</strong>tunate, crude in design and not easily<br />
reversible. It was too often a case of huge sums of money being spent on these houses<br />
but dreadful damage being done to their historic fabric. A few examples will suffice:<br />
- When Aldborough House was owned by Telecom Eireann in the 1980s (it<br />
is now owned by the <strong>Irish</strong> Music Rights Organisation), its grounds were<br />
seriously compromised by the building of parking facilities <strong>for</strong> Telecom<br />
23
workers; the integrity of the house was compromised by the installation of<br />
large banks of toilets, offices and equipment stores; rooms were divided<br />
vertically with studwork partitions in order to create cellular offices; a<br />
surface-mounted heating system was installed, as well as an indiscrete<br />
electrical system.<br />
At Ardgillan, Malahide and Newbridge, parts of the landscape have been<br />
compromised by the creation of football pitches<br />
State owned houses continue to face their own particular difficulties:<br />
- <strong>Houses</strong> such as Ballyhaise and Johnstown Castle face an uncertain future<br />
due to Teagasc’s latest cutbacks, which has seen it attempting to sell off<br />
some of its property.<br />
- Standards of maintenance at houses such as Ardgillan, Malahide and<br />
Newbridge may be hard to maintain due to shrinking budgets.<br />
- The worst-case scenario is that local authorities or the state might pull out<br />
of funding these houses and decide to sell them because they are too<br />
expensive to maintain. In which case, who would buy a house such as<br />
Rathfarnham, which is quite literally situated in the middle of a public<br />
park owned by the county council?<br />
3.3 (iii) <strong>Houses</strong> in the ownership of institutions and organisations<br />
Conservation issues concerning these houses are arguably an amalgam of those facing<br />
the above two categories. Because they have been taken over by institutions and<br />
organisations, adaptations to new functions resulted in alterations being made with<br />
very little regard <strong>for</strong> good conservation practice. A great deal of damage has been<br />
done to the historic fabric. For example:<br />
- At Ely House, rooms have been converted into offices, while the basement<br />
houses a Thai restaurant. The fact that a large number of people pass<br />
through the house on any given day also has its consequences.<br />
- At Head<strong>for</strong>t, the house has been modified to function as a school, while<br />
the parkland has been greatly compromised by its trans<strong>for</strong>mation into a<br />
golf course.<br />
- Similar, though less drastic, modifications have been made at Bellinter and<br />
Townley Hall.<br />
- At Ballyfin, which <strong>for</strong> decades functioned as a school, PVC windows were<br />
installed in the bow room over the library; one wing was converted to cater<br />
<strong>for</strong> a kitchen; reception rooms were converted into offices; a wall between<br />
the dining-room and the billiard room was demolished in order to create a<br />
chapel and on the bedroom floor a number of rooms were knocked into<br />
one to <strong>for</strong>m a dormitory.<br />
These houses face the same ongoing conservation challenges as those in private<br />
ownership. For example:<br />
- At Ely House, the roof is in poor condition and requires urgent attention;<br />
the chimneys are in a similar state and areas of the house are infested with<br />
damp.<br />
- At Head<strong>for</strong>t, all downpipes need to be replaced; the pointing between the<br />
frame and masonry of windows needs to be repaired to prevent any further<br />
water ingress; there is damp penetration at the east end of the dining room<br />
24
- which needs to be eradicated immediately and there is dry rot on the<br />
ground floor passage.<br />
- At Kylemore, the servants’ wing needs to be re-roofed and the windows<br />
need to be replaced. Large areas of the house are also infested with dry rot.<br />
- At Townley Hall, where major work is ongoing, at least half of the roof<br />
requires attention; some of the ceilings on the upper floors require<br />
restoration and there is a problem with rising damp in the basement.<br />
Since the Sisters of Sion were interviewed with regard to the future of Bellinter, they<br />
have taken the decision to sell the house. In a press statement issued on 14 June 2003,<br />
they outlined their reasons <strong>for</strong> doing so, which highlight the very real financial<br />
difficulties facing many more owners of houses such as this:<br />
‘Part of the process has been the consultation with professional advisors over<br />
the need to refurbish and to bring the property up to the standard demanded <strong>for</strong><br />
its use as an Adult Education and Conference Centre. The costings of this as<br />
well as its continued maintenance would be prohibitive.’<br />
3.3 (iv) <strong>Houses</strong> in new private ownership<br />
<strong>Houses</strong> in new private ownership present, in general, a different scenario. These are<br />
houses such as Abbey Leix, Ardbraccan, Ballyfin, Castlehyde, Castlemartin,<br />
Charleville, Luggala, Lyons and so on (not all included in this study).<br />
In many cases these houses required large scale expenditure on restoration and<br />
conservation by the new owners, as the houses had fallen into various states of<br />
disrepair. Their previous owners generally did not have the levels of necessary<br />
capital available to them to carry out restoration and conservation projects.<br />
It should be noted however that not all new owners have inexhaustible funds available<br />
<strong>for</strong> restoration and conservation works. Ledwithstown, <strong>for</strong> example, purchased by the<br />
Feeney family, is maintained essentially from farm income and restoration works<br />
have been assisted by various grants. Similarly Strokestown Park is largely<br />
dependent on commercial tourism.<br />
New owners, in the main, purchased houses that were largely, if not totally, denuded<br />
of their original contents. Some new owners have made commendable ef<strong>for</strong>ts to<br />
locate and acquire original furniture, paintings etc.. Similarly many new owners have<br />
realised the importance of the setting of the houses and have carried out major work<br />
in restoring gardens and parklands.<br />
Of the houses in this study the new owners have very similar worries to those of the<br />
owners in the other categories:<br />
- While in the vast majority of cases the new owners have sufficient funds to<br />
af<strong>for</strong>d restoration, there are a significant number of new owners who<br />
cannot af<strong>for</strong>d to carry out very necessary work on limited incomes.<br />
- Even some of the more wealthy owners are concerned about the<br />
commitment of the next generation to the task of maintaining the houses.<br />
- The future of a house such as Strokestown Park, so dependent on<br />
commercial tourism to generate funds to maintain it, will inevitably be<br />
affected by the down turn in the tourist industry.<br />
25
3.4 Further Sources of Threat<br />
3.4 (i) Income/Funding<br />
The point has been made in Section 2 that the historic houses in this survey were built<br />
by very wealthy families usually on the strength of very large rental incomes (or in<br />
the case of Kylemore on the strength of mercantile wealth) that not only financed their<br />
construction but also subsequently financed their upkeep.<br />
The point has also earlier been made that houses of this nature that are sold on the<br />
open market in the present-day can only be purchased by very wealthy individuals,<br />
institutions or companies. Indeed, this has become something of a trend in Ireland in<br />
recent years as <strong>Irish</strong> and <strong>for</strong>eign businessmen have bought houses such as Abbeyleix,<br />
Ardbraccan, Ballynatray, Castlehyde, Castlemartin, Castletown Cox, Charleville,<br />
Corbalton, Humewood, Lyons, Stackallen, and so on.<br />
While historic houses are faced with a multitude of difficulties, the most pressing is<br />
the financial burden involved in their day-to-day maintenance, conservation and<br />
restoration:<br />
- Of the twenty-five houses owned by the original families, thirteen are<br />
maintained by farm income and/or private income. These are Barmeath,<br />
Beaulieu, Birr, Borris, Curraghmore, Dunsany, Hamwood, Killadoon,<br />
Kilruddery, Lambay, Lissadell, Mount Ievers and Stradbally.<br />
- Some of these houses have comparatively large farms attached to them: <strong>for</strong><br />
example, Tullynally has a 750-acre farm. But while a large farm such as<br />
this might be sufficient to provide a com<strong>for</strong>table livelihood to an ordinary<br />
farming family, the point needs to be made that it is not sufficient to<br />
support the annual upkeep of such a large house, let alone to carry out the<br />
necessary restoration and conservation work.<br />
- Borris is supported by the income from the estate farm of around 270<br />
acres, the woodlands of around 250 acres, a golf course and some property<br />
rents. Again, farm income is simply not large enough to enable the owners<br />
to carry out all the work they would like to do. Mount Ievers is supported<br />
totally by a dairy farm, which has a quota of only 16,000 gallons, hardly<br />
large enough to run a small farmhouse, let alone an historic house.<br />
- The diminution of estates and farms (Enniscoe, <strong>for</strong> example, has only 160<br />
acres) means that twelve of the twenty-five owners have had to seek<br />
alternative means of raising income. This has taken a variety of <strong>for</strong>ms. To<br />
give some examples:<br />
o There are a number of houses that double as<br />
hotels/guesthouses/bed and breakfasts/restaurants. These include<br />
Ballinlough, Bantry (up until this year), Castle Leslie, Clonalis,<br />
Enniscoe, Glin, Hilton Park and Temple House.<br />
o Lismore is let to paying guests who are willing to pay €3,500 per<br />
night (<strong>for</strong> a group of twelve.)<br />
o Slane Castle rents out conference suites, caters <strong>for</strong> weddings and<br />
parties and is an established concert venue.<br />
o Westport is open to the public and its outoffices and grounds have<br />
been developed to provide recreational facilities <strong>for</strong> family groups.<br />
26
o Killruddery can no longer be maintained by farm income. The<br />
owners claim that they are largely surviving off capital from the<br />
sale of assets. Continued selling of assets obviously will affect the<br />
financial security of the house in the long-term and also diminish<br />
its cultural heritage and historical importance.<br />
For most houses, the cost of restoring, repairing and improving is too great to be<br />
af<strong>for</strong>dable from the annual estate budget. As it is, the majority of owners argue that<br />
they are <strong>for</strong>ced ‘to grind out a living’ in order to hold on to their houses. There<strong>for</strong>e,<br />
major restoration work invariably necessitates raising capital through the sale of<br />
contents or the sale of land <strong>for</strong> development purposes. Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, in both cases<br />
either the integrity of the house or the estate is damaged with consequences <strong>for</strong> their<br />
cultural heritage value. In the case of the sale of contents, this also diminishes the<br />
attraction of the house.<br />
<strong>Houses</strong> owned by institutions or organisations have similarly adapted their roles. Most<br />
face the same difficulties as the private owners:<br />
o The <strong>Irish</strong> Music Rights Organisation had major plans to develop<br />
Aldborough House as its headquarters but it seems that the huge<br />
restoration costs are possibly beyond its reach.<br />
o The potential costs of restoration work on Bellinter have recently<br />
<strong>for</strong>ced the owners to make the decision to sell the house.<br />
o The Knights of Columbanus have leased parts of Ely House to Fás<br />
and the basement to a restauranteur.<br />
o The trustees of Head<strong>for</strong>t, now functioning as a school, are currently<br />
organising fund-raising drives in a bid to raise the finances to carry<br />
out major restoration and conservation work on the house.<br />
o The Benedictine nuns at Kylemore have successfully opened the<br />
house as a tourist attraction. It is currently one of the most visited<br />
tourist attractions in Ireland. Nevertheless, large areas of the house<br />
require immediate attention.<br />
Some owners have had to travel what are regarded as less-traditional routes, such as<br />
Lord Mount Charles at Slane who has used the natural amphitheatre of his demesne to<br />
host rock concerts. While not to everybody’s taste, this, arguably, is a case of a<br />
country house assuming a role appropriate to the twenty-first century.<br />
Virtually all of the private owners stated that they worry that the next generation may<br />
not be willing to make the same financial sacrifices as them or else they stated that<br />
they do not want to burden their children with the financial pressures they have had to<br />
endure.<br />
There are still owners who see very little benefit in opening to the public on a<br />
commercial basis:<br />
- They lack the capital to carry out the major repairs that are necessary to<br />
make their houses presentable and interesting to the public.<br />
- To open the house would require the employment of staff which owners<br />
argue are not only difficult to get but also unaf<strong>for</strong>dable.<br />
- Some feel that the location of their houses is not conducive to attracting<br />
tourists.<br />
27
- Public liability insurance is unaf<strong>for</strong>dable.<br />
- Opening houses to the public is not always practical. A house such as<br />
Ledwithstown, <strong>for</strong> example, while extremely important, is too small to<br />
cater <strong>for</strong> groups of visitors. Furthermore, the owners claim they could not<br />
justify charging an entrance fee as visitors might feel ‘ripped off’.<br />
In the past, the vast majority of these houses have received some <strong>for</strong>m of grant aid<br />
from the state (often through the <strong>Heritage</strong> Council), the European Community (as at<br />
Belvedere, <strong>for</strong> example) or from voluntary organisations (such as the <strong>Irish</strong> Georgian<br />
Society). State-aided grants, while welcome, have been criticised <strong>for</strong> a number of<br />
reasons:<br />
- Owners are not satisfied with either the levels of grants available or the<br />
mechanism through which they are distributed. This applies particularly to<br />
county council grants, the funding of which has dwindled in the last couple<br />
of years.<br />
- The Great Gardens of Ireland Restoration Scheme has been successful in<br />
aiding the restoration of many important gardens in Ireland. However,<br />
those who availed of it complained that having to match the grant with<br />
their own funds was in the long term too costly. To avail of the grant<br />
owners usually had to raise their own share of the cost through a bank<br />
loan. Furthermore, they were critical of the fact that there was no<br />
subsequent funding available <strong>for</strong> maintenance of the gardens after they<br />
were restored.<br />
State owned houses present a different scenario. These are catered <strong>for</strong> from the annual<br />
budgets made available by the relevant departments. In the past, these budgets have<br />
not always been generous enough to allow <strong>for</strong> satisfactorily high levels of<br />
maintenance. Thus, the present restoration problems facing a house such as<br />
Johnstown Castle is just as great as any privately owned house. Moreover, there is<br />
always the threat of the diminution of budgets in the future.<br />
There is also the very real prospect that local authorities may have to generate more<br />
income in order to maintain historic houses in their possession through the<br />
commercial exploitation of the houses’ surroundings. The opening of caravan or<br />
leisure parks, sale of development land or development of golf courses would have<br />
damaging repercussions <strong>for</strong> the integrity of houses and their settings.<br />
3.4 (ii) Decline in tourism<br />
The argument has long been accepted that historical and cultural sites have an<br />
important role to play in presenting <strong>Irish</strong> heritage to overseas tourists. Bord Failte<br />
consistently points out, <strong>for</strong> example, that ‘<strong>Irish</strong> heritage is an integral part in the<br />
enjoyment of a holiday <strong>for</strong> overseas tourists.’ 1999 figures show that Muckross, <strong>for</strong><br />
example, attracted almost 238,000 visitors (bringing around €700,000 in revenue to<br />
the house) and Kilkenny Castle attracted almost 180,000 visitors (bringing €500,000<br />
in revenue to the castle.) According to the latest Bord Failte figures (2001), historic<br />
houses and gardens remain high on the list of top attractions: <strong>for</strong> example, Kylemore<br />
Abbey attracted 186,452 visitors; Strokestown Park attracted 66,000 visitors; Bantry<br />
House attracted 60,000 visitors and Belvedere House attracted 58,650 visitors.<br />
28
Attracting significant numbers of people to an area has obvious spin off benefits <strong>for</strong> a<br />
local community: Enniscoe, with its bed and breakfast accommodation, interpretative<br />
centre, gardens, shops and so on is now the single largest employer in that area of<br />
County Mayo; a house such as Castle Leslie in County Monaghan employs up to<br />
thirty people during peak season, while the closure of Bantry House in 2003 has<br />
negatively impacted upon the local economy.<br />
However, it would be misleading to assume that the success of these houses reflects<br />
the overall picture:<br />
- While the numbers visiting houses such as Muckross and Kilkenny might<br />
seem impressive, they are quite negligible when compared to numbers<br />
visiting some of the great houses in Britain, where, <strong>for</strong> example, Woburn<br />
Abbey can attract up to 30,000 visitors in any given weekend, let alone a<br />
year.<br />
- Visiting historic houses in Ireland probably reached its peak in the 1980s.<br />
Since then, owners claim to have noticed a considerable decline in<br />
numbers. In more recent years, the outbreak of Foot and Mouth disease in<br />
2001 had a calamitous effect. This was followed by the events of<br />
September 2001, war in Iraq in 2003, and the general downturn in the<br />
world economy. Egerton Shelswell-White, who closed Bantry House to<br />
the public in 2003, argues that country house visiting in Ireland has<br />
reached a peak and that ‘the days of fifty people or so arriving on a bus are<br />
over.’<br />
- Bord Failte statistics show, <strong>for</strong> example, that the number of European<br />
visitors to Ireland declined by 7 per cent in 2002 from the previous year,<br />
while the number of USA tourists declined by a very significant 14 per<br />
cent.<br />
- In practical terms the indigenous population in Ireland is too small to be of<br />
significant benefit to the historic house tourist industry. In order to attract<br />
repeat visitors, houses must have alternative attractions. Developments at<br />
Westport, <strong>for</strong> example, may not be to every aesthete’s taste, but in<br />
practical terms they are necessary to continue to attract large numbers of<br />
repeat visitors.<br />
- Many of the houses in private ownership and some of those in state<br />
ownership are in poor repair, as are their gardens, woodland and parkland.<br />
They require large-scale investment to bring them up to appropriate<br />
standards to attract visitors, but, of course, this is very much a catchtwenty-two<br />
situation; in order to benefit from the tourist industry they have<br />
to spend money that most families claim they do not have. The point has<br />
been made time and again throughout this report that the original owners<br />
in particular do not have the high levels of income that are necessary to<br />
secure the future of their houses.<br />
- Tourists are generally uninterested in houses that do not have original<br />
contents. Visitors to King House in Boyle, <strong>for</strong> example, regularly<br />
complain that the house has no original contents. If owners are <strong>for</strong>ced<br />
continuously to sell off contents in order to maintain their homes they are<br />
simply making them less attractive in the long-term.<br />
- There is a significant minority of visitors to houses and castles who are not<br />
satisfied with the quality of houses/castles or with the prices charged to<br />
view them. According to the latest Bord Failte figures, around 14 per cent<br />
29
of visitors in 2001 were not happy with quality and/or prices, while<br />
another 27 per cent were only ‘fairly satisfied’ with the quality and 39 per<br />
cent with price. There is also, it seems, a significant minority who objects<br />
to having to pay any admission to a state owned property feeling that it is a<br />
<strong>for</strong>m of double taxation.<br />
- The approach taken by owners/managers in the presentation of their<br />
houses to the public needs to be examined. It is difficult to generalise, but<br />
there seems to be a tendency amongst original families to invariably<br />
present their world, the world of the privileged landed class. On the other<br />
hand, houses owned by the state tend to dwell more on the underprivileged<br />
world of the tenantry. A more integrated approach is required.<br />
After all, the history of a local landed estate in very much the history of a<br />
local community. All aspects of the history of that local community should<br />
be elucidated. This would tend to make the history of houses much more<br />
appealing to a much wider public.<br />
- Whilst the salvation of historic houses does not lie exclusively in tourism,<br />
there should, nevertheless, be a concerted ef<strong>for</strong>t to promote these houses as<br />
tourist attractions. In the past Bord Fáilte made some attempts in this<br />
direction as did private initiatives such as the Blue Book and Hidden<br />
Ireland groups. However, these have not been penetrative enough. There<br />
needs to be a willingness amongst all organisations interested in promoting<br />
<strong>Irish</strong> tourism at local and national levels to come together and work in<br />
unison. As a consequence of the lack of promotion of heritage, <strong>Irish</strong><br />
tourism is not benefiting to the same extent as its European neighbours.<br />
3.4 (iii) Taxation<br />
There is no doubt but that the sale, abandonment, demolition or fall into disrepair of<br />
the majority of houses in the past had much to do with a high tax regime. For decades<br />
after the1920s, the consistently high levels of succession and death duties, income,<br />
(super) tax and rates had crippling effects upon country houses. The Wealth Tax of<br />
the early 1970s was <strong>for</strong> the <strong>Irish</strong> country house perhaps the most damaging fiscal<br />
exaction introduced in independent Ireland.<br />
However, since the 1980s, taxation is not the grim reaper it was <strong>for</strong> preceding<br />
generations. Much has been done since then to ease the taxation burden, so that it is<br />
now largely marginal, but not without its problems. The most beneficial tax<br />
concession is commonly referred to as section 482.<br />
To qualify <strong>for</strong> concessions under section 482, the Department of the Environment,<br />
<strong>Heritage</strong> and Local Government must first of all approve a house or garden as<br />
qualifying <strong>for</strong> the scheme. Being a protected structure does not mean automatic<br />
qualification. When a determination is received from the department, the property<br />
owner must complete a <strong>for</strong>m <strong>for</strong> the revenue commissioners. Once this has been<br />
cleared, the owner can offset all maintenance and expenditure on the property against<br />
taxable income <strong>for</strong> tax relief in any one year. In return, the property must be opened to<br />
the public <strong>for</strong> four hours a day <strong>for</strong> a minimum of sixty days, of which at least ten must<br />
be weekend days between the beginning of May and the end of September. There is<br />
also a stipulation that public advertisement to this effect must be made.<br />
30
Some difficulties arise which relate mainly to the inflexibility of this fiscal<br />
arrangement:<br />
- While those who avail of section 482 status generally agree that it<br />
represents an enlightened approach, they justly argue that it requires some<br />
modification because it is of relatively little value to any owner who does<br />
not have a high taxable income.<br />
- Lambay Castle is unique in that because it is located on an island, public<br />
access is severely limited by constraints of the tides and weather. In other<br />
words, there are actually very few days in any given year that visitors can<br />
travel to and from the island on the same day. There<strong>for</strong>e, Lambay cannot<br />
realistically be expected to open to the public and so it cannot claim the tax<br />
exemptions under section 482. This is extremely un<strong>for</strong>tunate given the<br />
great historic and cultural heritage importance of Lambay.<br />
- The owners of some houses such as Borris do not avail of this exemption<br />
because they do not open to the public, feeling that their house is too small<br />
and would not sustain the ‘heavy traffic’ of large numbers of visitors. It<br />
would also be very invasive as the house is not big enough <strong>for</strong> the family<br />
to reside in separate apartments to those that they might open to the public.<br />
- Owners have security worries, particularly those with valuable contents on<br />
display, that their homes are being ‘cased’. For this reason, some refuse to<br />
avail of section 482.<br />
- Elderly owners, such as Mrs Sidney Waddington at Beaulieu, who in the<br />
past lived alone, are expected to open under the same conditions as<br />
everybody else. There should be some flexibility to cater <strong>for</strong> elderly<br />
owners, as well as those who are sick and infirm. If, <strong>for</strong> example, they<br />
have opened their houses <strong>for</strong> a specified number of years, they should be<br />
allowed a period of grace until the house is taken over by the next<br />
generation.<br />
- Some owners argue that their houses are too small or too uninteresting to<br />
attract large numbers of visitors. They, however, give the impression that<br />
they are not fully alert to the provisions of the act. They seem to believe<br />
that the income it refers to is income derived from admission fees charged<br />
to the public. Their argument tends to be, in other words, that opening to<br />
the public would not be viable in their cases, as income would not even<br />
cover the costs involved.<br />
- This leads to a much wider problem; one of ignorance regarding the<br />
current fiscal legislation that is of benefit to historic house owners. A<br />
striking aspect of the in<strong>for</strong>mation proffered in interviews by the private<br />
owners is that a large number of them seemed to be caught in something of<br />
a time warp with regard to taxation and the burden it causes. It would seem<br />
that some owners’ memories of the more exacting regimes of the pre-<br />
1980s have clouded their perception of the current benefits. It is, there<strong>for</strong>e,<br />
questionable if some owners are fully alert to the various exemptions<br />
available to them. As one owner in<strong>for</strong>med this author: ‘Being aware of tax<br />
exemptions and understanding how they might apply are very different<br />
things.’ And not being aware can cost money to find out. Another owner<br />
claimed: ‘There is a serious lack of in<strong>for</strong>mation. We have done so much<br />
rooting to try and find out the in<strong>for</strong>mation and it’s taken us a lot of time<br />
and a lot of money and an awful lot of legal fees and consultancy fees to<br />
31
find the best way to do things.’ There is, there<strong>for</strong>e, a strong argument to be<br />
made <strong>for</strong> the fact that this type of in<strong>for</strong>mation should be readily available.<br />
- There is something of a quid pro quo arrangement between government<br />
and historic house owners who agree to open to the public. This is<br />
accepted by most who believe that if they are to benefit from tax<br />
exemptions and other <strong>for</strong>ms of state aid, there is an obligation and<br />
responsibility upon them to facilitate access. As one owner put it: ‘You<br />
can’t take that support and not have some sort of responsibility. You have<br />
to do something in return.’ There are, however, some who regard the<br />
public as ‘the enemy’. They quite obviously resent any infringement of<br />
their privacy and their attitude towards the public is anything but a<br />
welcoming one. Those who do not respect the spirit of the law and who<br />
make it difficult <strong>for</strong> the public to have access to their houses should have<br />
their tax exemptions disallowed.<br />
There are a number of further concessions that could be implemented at little cost to<br />
the government but of great benefit to historic house owners:<br />
- In most cases, the sales of contents are subject to Capital Gains Tax. This<br />
is an area that could lend itself to helping house owners solve some of their<br />
restoration problems at no great cost to the state if the proceeds from the<br />
sale of contents were allowed to pass into a tax-free maintenance fund.<br />
- Likewise, in some European countries there is a lower tier of VAT, which<br />
applies to repairs carried out on listed buildings. The application of such a<br />
system in Ireland would go some way to compensating <strong>Irish</strong> owners <strong>for</strong> the<br />
additional expenditure imposed upon them by the listing system.<br />
- <strong>Houses</strong> such as Strokestown Park in Roscommon find themselves in the<br />
position of getting local authority grants but simultaneously being billed<br />
with substantial local authority rates because the historic property is being<br />
used <strong>for</strong> commercial purposes. There should be remission of such rates in<br />
order to allow <strong>for</strong> the continued conservation of the house.<br />
- It would benefit all if owners were allowed to cede contents to the state in<br />
lieu of taxation. The state could then allow these contents to remain in situ<br />
<strong>for</strong> the benefit of public viewing.<br />
There are un<strong>for</strong>tunately some houses that continue to be tied into legal structures that<br />
are no longer suitable <strong>for</strong> the purposes <strong>for</strong> which they were originally intended, which<br />
in many cases were designed to avoid taxation. At present these structures can prevent<br />
the application of the exemptions now available. For example, houses constituted as<br />
companies owned by discretionary trusts qualify <strong>for</strong> none of the exemptions available<br />
to privately owned properties. The high tax costs involved in changing these<br />
structures is prohibitive. This prevents reconstruction and where this does take place it<br />
is often at the expense of the sale of contents, which, in turn, only leads to the<br />
continued decline of the historic and cultural worth of the property.<br />
Birr is an example. Like many properties in the past, Birr was placed in a company<br />
with sufficient supporting assets to maintain the property. The shares of the company<br />
were placed in a discretionary trust to provide <strong>for</strong> the owner’s succession.<br />
Discretionary trusts cannot avail of section 482 exemptions. The continued existence<br />
of the trust is now dependent upon the life of Lord Rosse. To reconstruct now would<br />
be enormously expensive. The Birr <strong>Trust</strong>ee Company emphasises that the entire estate<br />
32
and heritage at Birr is in imminent danger if the estate is <strong>for</strong>ced to pay a once off 6 per<br />
cent discretionary trust tax liability and a 1 per cent annual levy thereafter on the<br />
gross value of the estate. While amendments to discretionary trust legislation to<br />
ensure the survival of the castle and its contents would be of greater value to the state<br />
than a once off tax benefit to the government, amendments should be conditional on<br />
the opening of the house to the public.<br />
At the end of the day, it is not taxation that is the main problem <strong>for</strong> most of the<br />
original owners; rather it is the lack of income/funding. More grant aid is essential<br />
rather than more tax exemptions.<br />
3.4 (iv): Insurance<br />
Insurance costs, which have risen dramatically over the last five years or so, are a<br />
huge threat to historic houses. On more than one occasion, Lord Altamont, <strong>for</strong><br />
example, has threatened to close Westport because of escalating public liability<br />
insurance costs. Even <strong>for</strong> a relatively small country house an annual insurance<br />
premium would cost in the region of €18,000.<br />
Arguably, most concern should be focused upon houses in the ownership of original<br />
families because of the value of their contents. Of the twenty-two original owners<br />
who provided in<strong>for</strong>mation on insurance, all said that the house and contents were<br />
inadequately insured or that the house but not the contents were insured or that there<br />
was no insurance at all. The point was very clear: adequate insurance was simply not<br />
af<strong>for</strong>dable. Thus, in the event of a major fire or burglary, there is a strong risk that<br />
resources would not be available to make good the damage caused.<br />
What is also of great concern is that country houses are beginning to become targets<br />
of what Lord Henry Mount Charles describes as ‘creeping compensationitis’, a<br />
disease that seems to be affecting <strong>Irish</strong> society in general. This is proving to be a great<br />
source of concern to those private owners who have allowed public access to their<br />
woods and parkland in the past. The most un<strong>for</strong>tunate aspect of this is that many<br />
owners claim that they would be more than willing to allow greater access to their<br />
woodlands, pleasure grounds and lakeshore areas if insurance was not such a burden<br />
and the fear of litigation not so great.<br />
33
Section 4: National <strong>Trust</strong> Legislation<br />
In the past, when the government did not see fit to intervene, it represented a lost<br />
opportunity to acquire houses of immense heritage value <strong>for</strong> the benefit of the public.<br />
The current debate on Lissadell has once more drawn attention to the need to examine<br />
in depth the case <strong>for</strong> legislation to give legal standing to national-trust type<br />
organisations.<br />
The point has earlier been made in this report that architectural heritage, as<br />
exemplified in this case in historic houses, is a unique and special resource. In 2001, a<br />
government publication from the Department of Arts, <strong>Heritage</strong>, Gaeltacht and the<br />
Islands and Duchas entitled Architectural <strong>Heritage</strong> Protection: Guidelines <strong>for</strong><br />
Planning Authorities (p. 3) pointed out that:<br />
Our architectural heritage consists not only of great artistic achievements, but<br />
also the everyday works of craftsmanship of the past. The creative challenge<br />
faced by custodians of this heritage is to find appropriate ways to prolong its<br />
cultural life, satisfying the requirements of a structure to be safe, stable and<br />
durable on the one hand, and retaining its character and fabric of special<br />
interest on the other.<br />
In 130 countries worldwide national trust organisations or heritage foundations have<br />
been established to date. In general terms, their role is to ensure the identification,<br />
protection, conservation and transmission to future generations of the heritage of<br />
individual states. In Ireland, An Taisce, The National <strong>Trust</strong> <strong>for</strong> Ireland, was<br />
established in 1946 as an independent, non-governmental, charitable, non-profit<br />
making organisation with a mission which includes the holding of property of heritage<br />
value <strong>for</strong> the benefit of future generations. It does not benefit from the existence of the<br />
national trust-type legislation which exists in other jurisdictions. Of particular concern<br />
is the fact that An Taisce’s properties are not inalienable.<br />
Of twenty-six European countries that have a national trust-type organisation, there<br />
are only four including Ireland that does not have enabling legislation in place to give<br />
statutory recognition and support to them.<br />
Let us turn briefly to the need <strong>for</strong> such legislation within a European context. The<br />
Convention <strong>for</strong> the Protection of the Architectural <strong>Heritage</strong> of Europe (known as the<br />
Granada Convention) was drawn up by the Council of Europe in 1985, although not<br />
ratified by Ireland until 1997. Significantly, the Convention viewed the protection of<br />
heritage in a wider European context setting out that the aim of the Council of Europe<br />
was ‘to achieve a greater unity between its members <strong>for</strong> the purpose, inter alia, of<br />
safeguarding and retaining the ideal and principles which are their common heritage’.<br />
The Convention emphasised that architectural heritage constitutes an irreplaceable<br />
expression of the richness and diversity of Europe’s cultural heritage and that it bears<br />
inestimable witness to a common heritage of all Europeans. Ironically, by the mid-<br />
1980s, the continued loss of so many historic houses in Ireland threatened to denude<br />
the country of a rich and important part of its cultural heritage.<br />
The Granada Convention was important in that it made it incumbent upon each party<br />
to the agreement to take statutory measures to protect its architectural heritage. In<br />
34
Ireland the Local Government (Planning and Development) Act 1999, since<br />
consolidated in part iv of the Planning and Development Act, 2000, addressed the<br />
Convention’s directives to implement appropriate supervision and authorisation<br />
procedures to protect listed buildings by <strong>for</strong>ce of law.<br />
The Granada Convention placed other responsibilities upon parties to the agreement<br />
to protect architectural heritage:<br />
- Article 4.2.c permits a public authority to require an owner of a protected<br />
property to carry out necessary work on it or to carry out such work itself<br />
if the owner fails to do so.<br />
- Article 4.2.d allows <strong>for</strong> the compulsory purchase of a protected property.<br />
o (Signatories to the Convention could reserve the right not to<br />
comply with Article 4.2.c and 4.2.d above.)<br />
- Article 6.1 directs that financial support be provided by public authorities<br />
<strong>for</strong> maintaining and restoring architectural heritage within the limitations<br />
of the budgets available. As has been argued already, county council<br />
grants in Ireland, <strong>for</strong> example, are by no means sufficient in this respect.<br />
- Article 6.2 puts the onus on the state to resort to fiscal measures to<br />
facilitate the conservation of heritage if necessary. The fiscal measures<br />
introduced in Ireland since the mid-1980s have gone some way in this<br />
respect, but they need to be modified, amended and expanded where<br />
necessary.<br />
- Article 6.3 encourages the participation of private initiative in maintaining<br />
and restoring the architectural heritage.<br />
- Article 11 suggests that planning laws need to be flexible in order to allow<br />
<strong>for</strong> the use of protected properties ‘in the light of the needs of<br />
contemporary life’ which should facilitate ‘the adaptation when<br />
appropriate of old buildings <strong>for</strong> new uses’. In this respect, some of the<br />
original owners in this study complained that they were having difficulties<br />
convincing local planning authorities to allow them, <strong>for</strong> example, to<br />
convert stables into accommodation units.<br />
- Article 12 suggests the need <strong>for</strong> flexibility with regard to public access<br />
where it is possible that the consequences of permitting this access might<br />
adversely affect ‘the architectural and historical character of such<br />
properties and their surroundings’. As already noted in this report, Section<br />
482 is not flexible enough in this respect.<br />
- Article 14.1 directs that the state establish appropriate machinery <strong>for</strong> the<br />
supply of in<strong>for</strong>mation between the state, the regional and local authorities,<br />
cultural institutions and associations and the public. This report has<br />
already recommended that more in<strong>for</strong>mation be made available to the<br />
public (in this case house owners) regarding conservation issues, legal<br />
fiscal entitlements and so on.<br />
Since the 1980s, the role of the state in the preservation of Ireland’s cultural heritage<br />
has greatly improved. But state ownership in Ireland is not the most progressive way<br />
<strong>for</strong>ward. The state will always be faced with the responsibility of prioritising its<br />
expenditure. If the government is refusing to build schools and is closing down<br />
hospital wards, can it justify to the public its involvement in expensive historic house<br />
restoration projects? In 2002 ‘An Assessment of the Sustainable Tourism Potential of<br />
35
the Properties Under An Taisce Management’ (David Owen) outlined a number of<br />
reasons why trust ownership is more beneficial than government ownership:<br />
- National trusts are more likely to attract funding from international bodies<br />
or through legacies and donations.<br />
- A trust can manage and maintain historic properties more cheaply than if<br />
they were in state ownership.<br />
- <strong>Trust</strong>s are more inclusive and transparent because decisions are made by<br />
consensus arrived at by total membership.<br />
- There is a sustainable argument that the existence of a national trust<br />
overcomes the conflict of interests inherent in government ownership of<br />
heritage and its responsibility <strong>for</strong> economic development.<br />
An Taisce has admitted that, as presently constituted, it is not feasible <strong>for</strong> it to become<br />
the owner of significant amounts of land and property on the scale of the National<br />
<strong>Trust</strong> in Britain. The number of historic houses it might be able to acquire and/or<br />
manage would be limited. In the recent past, the Government <strong>Heritage</strong> Service<br />
repeatedly stated that it has no intention of taking over any more heritage properties.<br />
With regard to houses in the ownership of local authorities, the fact is that despite<br />
their best intentions, there remains the issue of the maintenance of the historic<br />
character of these houses and surrounding features in the face of pressure to<br />
commercialise them in order to attract visitors and generate more funds.<br />
All of the above suggests the strong need to examine in depth the case <strong>for</strong> the<br />
introduction of enabling legislation to give statutory recognition and support to viable<br />
national trust organisations in this country. The two key elements to the success of<br />
this type of legislation are the acceptance of the principle of inalienability and the<br />
granting of tax exemptions on donations. Inalienability is essential because it ensures<br />
that if a trust ceases to exist properties cannot be sold off without an act of parliament.<br />
Likewise, tax exemptions on donations (either in the case of the property or more<br />
importantly on funds <strong>for</strong> the endowment of the property’s upkeep) are another<br />
prerequisite <strong>for</strong> success, guaranteeing the long-term upkeep and restoration of the<br />
properties in the trusts’ or foundations’ hands.<br />
In April 2002, a draft <strong>Heritage</strong> <strong>Trust</strong> Bill was presented by An Taisce to the Joint<br />
Oireachtas Committee on <strong>Heritage</strong> and the <strong>Irish</strong> Language. The committee favourably<br />
received the proposal that national trust legislation should be introduced in Ireland.<br />
However, no further progress with this proposal has been made, which is to be<br />
lamented <strong>for</strong> if such legislation could be successfully established, it would<br />
undoubtedly enhance the prospects of the preservation of the remaining historic<br />
houses in Ireland.<br />
While this report strongly recommends the introduction of national trust legislation, it<br />
should be noted that twenty of the private owners said that although they would<br />
welcome the introduction of a trust under national trust legislation, they would not be<br />
in favour of handing their house over to it. Private owners remain somewhat sceptical<br />
about the prospects of trusts working in Ireland. Possibly the main reason <strong>for</strong> this<br />
comes once again from a lack of knowledge regarding the working of such an<br />
organisation:<br />
o Some owners believed that they would not have the necessary<br />
finances available to them to gift their properties to a trust or to be<br />
36
able to accompany these finances with an endowment fund<br />
necessary to maintain them into the future.<br />
o Most perceive a trust to be a state organisation and they are<br />
sceptical as to whether or not the state is genuinely committed to<br />
the taking over of a relatively large number of houses and funding<br />
their maintenance into the future.<br />
o They feel that the best way to maintain these historic houses is to<br />
give a commitment to provide funding to the families themselves to<br />
maintain them. They are, they argue, already doing the preservation<br />
work of a trust.<br />
o There is a strong sense amongst the private owners of losing their<br />
personal association with the house if it were to pass to a trust. One<br />
owner said that the ‘trust does not appeal to me at all; I would<br />
rather sell than lose control.’ Another owner pointed out that he<br />
would rather live in ‘my own house … even if it’s on an acre of<br />
ground than have to share it with a trust.’<br />
Obviously the success of a national trust-type organisation in Ireland would depend<br />
on the willingness of owners of historic houses in the future to transfer ownership to<br />
trusts with endowments of income where appropriate. It would also depend upon the<br />
calibre of the people involved in the trusts, their knowledge and understanding of the<br />
historic importance of the houses, and their ability to organise a viable role <strong>for</strong> the<br />
houses into the future. It may also depend upon educating those who presently own or<br />
manage historic houses to appreciate the long-term benefits of a trust.<br />
37
Section 5: Summary of Key Findings<br />
Only a small proportion of the original number of historic houses survive in Ireland<br />
today, and an even smaller proportion survives in the ownership of original families.<br />
The surviving houses have an important architectural and heritage value not only in<br />
an <strong>Irish</strong> context but also in a European context:<br />
- They provide examples of houses that were built at turning points in the<br />
development of <strong>Irish</strong> and European architectural design.<br />
- Many of the oldest surviving houses provide microcosmic insights to the<br />
changing tastes and fashions of house owners from the beginning of their<br />
building to at least the twentieth century.<br />
- They have been designed by internationally important architects such as<br />
Richard Castle, James Gandon, Francis Johnson, Edwin Lutyens and<br />
James Wyatt.<br />
- The interior designs of some of the houses are also of international<br />
architectural heritage importance: <strong>for</strong> example the Robert Adam rooms at<br />
Head<strong>for</strong>t; the oval room at Ballyhaise; the Francini ceilings at<br />
Curraghmore and Tyrone House.<br />
The historic parks, gardens and demesnes which provide the setting <strong>for</strong> historic<br />
houses are all an important component of our national heritage, rich in the<br />
arboricultural, archaeological and horticultural legacy of previous generations.<br />
<strong>Houses</strong> in the ownership of original families, which still have significant collections<br />
of original contents, offer a unique historical insight to the evolution of a house over<br />
succeeding generations. In houses such as Birr, Clonalis, Glin and Newbridge the<br />
history of <strong>Irish</strong> furniture, silver, glass, painting and craftsmanship is elucidated.<br />
Arguably, the purchase of houses such as Ardgillan, Newbridge and Malahide by<br />
Fingal County Council has had important social consequences. With the expansion of<br />
the Dublin suburbs, these houses and their grounds now provide much needed<br />
recreational facilities.<br />
The work of public and private organisations such as the <strong>Irish</strong> Georgian Society,<br />
Duchas, An Taisce, some county councils as well as the ef<strong>for</strong>ts of individuals have<br />
been commendable in attempting to safeguard the cultural heritage importance of<br />
these houses, often in the face of adversity.<br />
In general, privately owned houses are sustained by farm income, private income or in<br />
some cases the exploitation of house, gardens and demesnes through opening to the<br />
public.<br />
For most owners opening to the public has brought tax exemption benefits under<br />
section 482. In general, taxation is not the burden that it has been in the past <strong>for</strong><br />
previous generations, although there is room <strong>for</strong> much more flexibility in the present<br />
legislation. The legacy of previously exacting taxation has been decaying houses.<br />
Today, taxation should be a marginal problem <strong>for</strong> most owners; it is lack of adequate<br />
financial resources to maintain a historic house that is the real problem.<br />
38
There remain a number of owners, most notably of Birr and Lambay, who are tied<br />
into legal structures that prevent the application of exemptions now available. To<br />
reconstruct would be enormously expensive <strong>for</strong> them. Unless they can reconstruct the<br />
future of their houses is in imminent danger.<br />
While the new owners have, in general, the wealth to restore and conserve historic<br />
houses, the same cannot be said of many of the original families. It is fair to conclude<br />
that the vast majority of the houses owned by the original families are faced with<br />
extensive conservation and restoration work, which will require significant<br />
expenditure. It is quite obvious that in most cases the cost of repairs and restoration is<br />
beyond their capability. For most this work can only be af<strong>for</strong>ded through the sale of<br />
valuable contents, which, in turn, continues the diminution of the historic and cultural<br />
value of their houses.<br />
A related fundamental difficulty is that the onerous task of maintaining historic<br />
houses on a day-to-day basis is now dependent on very few people, usually a small<br />
number of family members. This level of manpower falls well short of what is<br />
required <strong>for</strong> historic houses and gardens.<br />
Grants are available from the public and private sectors, but, in general, these are<br />
either inadequate or else amounts have to be matched by the house owners themselves<br />
which usually necessitates borrowing, which, in turn, negates the original intention of<br />
the grant.<br />
The ability to generate funds in order to make a house sustainable is a major concern<br />
also <strong>for</strong> institutional owners and even local authority managers and state agencies.<br />
While some state owned houses have been commendably restored, others have<br />
suffered from the inadequacy of planning laws in the past, which allowed <strong>for</strong> crude<br />
and un<strong>for</strong>tunate interventions in design that are not easily reversible.<br />
House owners and managers have been faced with the un<strong>for</strong>tunate dilemma of how to<br />
maintain the integrity of the house and simultaneously run them as an everyday<br />
business.<br />
From independence to the early 1980s, successive governments showed a distinct lack<br />
of interest in these houses. Government policy on a number of issues from land<br />
acquisition and division to taxation to conservation impacted negatively upon historic<br />
houses with the result that the twentieth century witnessed the demolition,<br />
abandonment or sale of scores of these houses and the dispersal of their contents<br />
worldwide.<br />
Since the 1980s, the <strong>Irish</strong> government has pledged its support to the preservation of<br />
the country’s built architectural heritage <strong>for</strong> future generations. Its commitment in<br />
terms of fiscal policy is commendable, although there is ample scope <strong>for</strong> further<br />
concessions.<br />
39
Section 6: Key Recommendations<br />
Introduction<br />
This study is not concerned with the safeguarding of privilege but with the<br />
preservation of the state’s architectural heritage and the handing down of it intact to<br />
future generations. <strong>Historic</strong> houses should be recognised as the symbols of the<br />
creative skills of architects and craftsmen, some of whom were of international<br />
importance and most of whom were <strong>Irish</strong>.<br />
It is imperative that the present and future governments act to ensure the continued<br />
and careful preservation of historic houses <strong>for</strong> the benefit of future generations.<br />
Political goodwill is of the utmost importance. There must be recognition that funding<br />
<strong>for</strong> the conservation and preservation of these houses is necessary recognising that the<br />
original families do not in most cases have the financial capacity to properly maintain<br />
and conserve their houses.<br />
It is important that the preservation of historic houses should not be seen to take<br />
precedence over any other historic property. To do so would perhaps continue to<br />
focus resentment upon historic houses and their owners. It must be approached in a<br />
reasonable and practicable manner and one that is not seen to be burdensome to the<br />
taxpayer or of greater priority than vital social services such as health or education.<br />
There have been previous reports with recommendations with regard to the future of<br />
historic houses. For example, over a quarter of a century ago, in 1977, An Taisce<br />
published a major report on the future of historic houses, gardens and collections in<br />
Ireland. Its two main recommendations were the establishment of a national trust to<br />
secure the future of historic properties and secondly, the development of a support<br />
structure of grants and tax relief <strong>for</strong> existing owners. Section 482 and the<br />
implementation of a number of grant schemes have been of assistance but nothing has<br />
been done with regard to legislation <strong>for</strong> national trust-type arrangements.<br />
Recommendations<br />
6.1 It is recommended that as an initial response to this report the government should<br />
immediately issue a policy statement regarding the value it places on historic houses.<br />
6.2 A specific inventory of all surviving houses and their important contents needs to<br />
be carried out to ensure they are listed immediately in the Records of Protected<br />
Structures maintained by local authorities and in the surveys being made <strong>for</strong> the<br />
purposes of the national inventory of architectural heritage. There are many more<br />
houses of great importance surviving that have not been mentioned in this report.<br />
Their situation and circumstances peculiar to them need to be elucidated.<br />
6.3 It is imperative that enabling legislation should be introduced to give statutory<br />
recognition and support to viable national trust-type organisations <strong>for</strong> this country to<br />
safeguard the future of the remaining historic houses. The fundamental success of<br />
such legislation would be based upon the installation of the principle of inalienability<br />
and the provision of favourable tax concessions that will encourage prospective<br />
40
donors to gift their properties to the trusts and others to donate the funding that will be<br />
necessary to protect them into the future.<br />
As a preliminary step the issue of the efficacy, feasibility and practicality of<br />
legislating <strong>for</strong> national trust-type organisations to manage historic house properties<br />
and other heritage-type properties needs to be researched and analytically appraised<br />
from the public policy perspectives, in the widest sense, of costs and benefits.<br />
6.4 Grants or low interest loans are essential and need to be targeted at those original<br />
owners in need of financial assistance who want to retain their houses and contents<br />
intact and who are willing to provide good access to the public.<br />
While section 482 has been of great benefit to owners, it needs to be reviewed and<br />
modified in the light of the contents of this study. These modifications are over and<br />
above the re<strong>for</strong>ms that should be made to ensure that present beneficiaries under<br />
section 482 give satisfactory access to the public and adhere to the spirit of the law. If<br />
owners persistently make it difficult <strong>for</strong> members of the public to gain access to<br />
houses, the benefits of section 482 should be withdrawn.<br />
In particular, there needs to be a distinction with regard to the exemptions and<br />
concessions allowable to original owners who may be financially struggling to<br />
preserve their houses and new purchasers who have the private wealth to restore<br />
houses themselves. It should be recognised that fiscal arrangements should be geared<br />
more towards those original families who most need them in order to maintain their<br />
homes.<br />
6.5 Specific tax concessions need to be considered in relation to those houses<br />
currently held in legal structures such as trusts and companies to which present tax<br />
exemptions do not apply. Owners claim they are unable to dismantle these structures<br />
because of the huge costing involved. There is a tendency in official circles to view<br />
this problem with little sympathy because it is perceived they were created in the first<br />
place to avoid taxation rather than to benefit the historic property. Whether that is the<br />
case or not the stage has now been reached whereby it is more important to preserve<br />
the built heritage than it is to benefit from a relatively insignificant taxation bill. The<br />
owners who might benefit from any such measures would have, in turn, to<br />
accommodate access to houses and contents.<br />
6.6 There seems to be a great deal of confusion amongst owners regarding the nature<br />
of tax concessions and grant assistance. It would be of great assistance to many<br />
owners if a general paper on tax legislation could be prepared, perhaps by an<br />
organisation such as the <strong>Irish</strong> Georgian Society, outlining entitlements in a coherent<br />
fashion (although it should be emphasised that each owner has a responsibility to look<br />
after his/her own fiscal affairs.)<br />
6.7 Greater resources should be made available <strong>for</strong> the existing conservation grants<br />
scheme operated by the local authorities and the <strong>Heritage</strong> Council. At present, local<br />
authority budgets <strong>for</strong> heritage protection are completely inadequate. Of great concern<br />
is the fact that funding <strong>for</strong> conservation grants operated by local authorities is now<br />
being cut. Funding <strong>for</strong> 2002 was 40 per cent down on the 2001 levels.<br />
41
6.8 Grants should be subject to some degree of means testing which would facilitate<br />
targeting of grant assistance to the owners who do not have the financial capability to<br />
undertake the necessary works of care and maintenance.<br />
6.9 The possibility of the remission of rates in respect of historic houses (or parts of),<br />
which are being used <strong>for</strong> commercial purposes, should be investigated. The<br />
difficulties in this respect are exemplified by the case of Strokestown Park in County<br />
Roscommon where the National Famine Museum is located. The owners find<br />
themselves in the position of getting local authority grants but simultaneously being<br />
billed with substantial local authority rates because the historic property is being used<br />
<strong>for</strong> commercial purposes.<br />
6.10 The possibility of exempting certain funds from taxation which are being<br />
generated specifically <strong>for</strong> the conservation and restoration of historic buildings should<br />
be investigated (including the disposal of property or artefacts associated with the<br />
historic house which is intended to be conserved.) This could be similar in some<br />
respects to the rollover relief allowed to owners of land acquired <strong>for</strong> infra-structural<br />
projects.<br />
6.11 Some policy initiatives should also be considered to alleviate the extra insurance<br />
burdens on the owners of historic properties, particularly, though not exclusively,<br />
those that have been included by local authorities in the record of protected structures.<br />
6.12 There is an invaluable historical resource existing in many of the historic houses<br />
surveyed in the <strong>for</strong>m of estate archives, generally well preserved and in some cases<br />
dating back several hundred years. These estate records often reveal the economic,<br />
social, political and cultural life of local communities over a span of many<br />
generations. Urgent consideration needs to be given to preserving this valuable<br />
historical resource and to accommodating access <strong>for</strong> scholarly endeavour.<br />
6.13 While planning laws are essential and generally well received by owners, there is<br />
a need <strong>for</strong> a degree of flexibility in implementation that will allow families to generate<br />
the income that is necessary to maintain a property. The installation of facilities that<br />
do not damage the integrity of the house should not be prevented by the planning<br />
regime. If rules and regulations are applied too rigidly, even where they are passed<br />
with the best of intentions, it might limit the ability of house owners to generate<br />
income. In particular there should be consistency in the application of the planning<br />
legislation by the various local authorities.<br />
Under the present planning legislation, there needs to be a mechanism <strong>for</strong> a review<br />
body allowing owners a degree of flexibility where there is dispute over preserving<br />
the integrity of the building or developing it in a way that will allow <strong>for</strong> a greater<br />
degree of commercial use that is necessary to sustain the house. Each application<br />
needs to be looked at on an individual basis. Such a mechanism might also prove<br />
conciliatory in situations where owners find themselves at odds with government<br />
officials they perceive to be meddling rather than helpful.<br />
6.14 An appreciation of the historical and cultural heritage values should be promoted<br />
through exhibitions of historic house art, contents and archive collections, conferences<br />
and so on to raise public awareness. <strong>Houses</strong> should be regarded as an educational<br />
42
asset, offering a unique insight to the country’s social, economic, cultural and political<br />
history as well as the architectural heritage which they represent.<br />
6.15 To reflect their economic value to the tourist industry, historic houses should be<br />
promoted through a more effective and concerted marketing campaign involving<br />
owners, interested private organisations and state tourism bodies.<br />
6.16 <strong>Houses</strong> such as Belvedere, Kylemore, Strokestown and Westport, where a<br />
professional approach has been taken to their managements and exploitation, have<br />
been successful in attracting tens of thousands of visitors on an annual basis. The<br />
management of a historic house and gardens is a skilled task. Privately owned houses<br />
are in some instances too small and in others lack the funding to justify professional<br />
management. Thus the establishment of an umbrella-type advisory service, funded on<br />
a co-operative basis by the owners, voluntary organisations and the relevant state<br />
agencies would be of great value.<br />
43
References<br />
Bateman, John, The great landowners of Great Britain and Ireland (London, 1883).<br />
Bence-Jones, Mark, A guide to <strong>Irish</strong> country houses (London, 1988, revised ed.)<br />
Bord Fáilte, Properties of significant horticultural, scientific, historical, architectural<br />
or aesthetic interest in Ireland (2003)<br />
Craig, Maurice, The architecture of Ireland from the earliest times to 1880 (London,<br />
1982).<br />
Dooley, Terence, The decline of the big house in Ireland: a study of <strong>Irish</strong> landed<br />
families, 1860-1960 (Dublin, 2001).<br />
Glin, Knight of, Griffin, D.J. and Robinson, N.K., Vanishing country houses of<br />
Ireland (1988).<br />
Guinness, Desmond, and Ryan, William, <strong>Irish</strong> houses and castles (London, 1971).<br />
Malins, Edward, and Glin, Knight of, <strong>Irish</strong> gardens: the heritage series ii (Dublin,<br />
1977)<br />
Mc Parland, Edward and Robinson, N.K. (eds.), <strong>Heritage</strong> at risk: a digest of An<br />
Taisce’s report on the future of historic houses, gardens and collections in the<br />
Republic of Ireland (Dublin, 1977).<br />
Owen, David, An assessment of the sustainable tourism potential of the properties<br />
under An Taisce management (2002).<br />
Montgomery-Massingberd, Hugh & Sykes, Christopher Simon, Great <strong>Houses</strong> of<br />
Ireland, (London, 1999)<br />
44
APPENDIX I<br />
Schedule of <strong>Houses</strong> in Survey<br />
Location Map<br />
45
Appendix I: Schedule of <strong>Houses</strong> in Survey<br />
Name of House Location Present Owner<br />
1 Abbey Leix Abbeyleix, Co. Laois Abbeyleix Group Ltd.<br />
2 Aldborough House Portland Row D.1 <strong>Irish</strong> Music Rights Organisation<br />
3 Ardgillan Castle Balbriggan, Co. Dublin Fingal Co. Co.<br />
4 Avondale Rathdrum, Co. Wicklow State<br />
5 Ballinlough Castle Clonmellon, Co. Westmeath Sir John Nugent<br />
6 Ballyfin Ballyfin, Co. Laois Ballyfin Demesne Co.<br />
7 Ballyhaise House Ballyhaise, Co. Cavan State<br />
8 Bantry House Bantry, Co. Cork Egerton Shelswell-White<br />
9 Barmeath Castle Dunleer, Co. Louth Brian Bellew<br />
10 Beaulieu Drogheda, Co. Louth Sydney Waddington<br />
11 Bellamont Forest Cootehill, Co. Cavan John Coote<br />
12 Bellinter Navan, Co. Meath Sisters of Sion<br />
13 Belvedere Mullingar, Co. Westmeath Westmeath Co. Co.<br />
14 Birr Castle Birr, Co. Offaly Lord Rosse<br />
15 Borris House Borris, Co. Carlow Andrew Kavanagh<br />
16 Castle Leslie Glaslough, Co. Monaghan Samantha Leslie<br />
17 Charlemont House Parnell Square, D.1 Dublin City Council<br />
18 Clonalis Castlerea, Co. Roscommon Pyers O’Conor Nash<br />
19 Curraghmore Portlaw, Co. Water<strong>for</strong>d Lord Water<strong>for</strong>d<br />
20 Dunsany Castle Dunsany, Co. Meath Lord Dunsany<br />
21 Ely House Ely Place, Dublin 2 Knights of Columbanus<br />
22 Enniscoe Crossmolina, Co. Mayo Susan Kellet<br />
23 Glin Castle Glin, Co. Limerick Knight of Glin<br />
24 Hamwood Dunboyne, Co. Meath Major Hamilton<br />
25 Head<strong>for</strong>t Kells, Co. Meath Head<strong>for</strong>t Estate Co.<br />
26 Hilton Park Clones, Co. Monaghan John Madden<br />
27 Johnstown Castle Co. Wex<strong>for</strong>d State<br />
28 Killadoon Celbridge, Co. Kildare Charles Clements<br />
29 Kilruddery Bray, Co. Wicklow Lord Meath<br />
30 King House Boyle, Co. Roscommon Roscommon Co. Co.<br />
31 Kylemore Abbey Letterfrack, Co. Galway Benedictine Nuns<br />
32 Lambay Castle Lambay Island, Co. Dublin Patrick and Margaret Kelly<br />
33 Ledwithstown Ballymahon, Co. Long<strong>for</strong>d Laurence Feeney<br />
34 Lissadell Carney, Co. Sligo Sir Josslyn Gore Booth<br />
35 Lismore Castle Lismore, Co. Water<strong>for</strong>d Lismore Estate Co.<br />
36 Luggala Roundwood, Co. Wicklow Hon. Garech Browne<br />
37 Malahide Castle Malahide, Co. Dublin Fingal Co. Co.<br />
38 Mount Ievers Sixmilebridge, Co. Clare Breda Ievers<br />
39 Newbridge House Donabate, Co. Dublin Fingal Co. Co.<br />
40 Rathfarnham Castle Rathfarnham, Co. Dublin State<br />
41 Russborough Blessington, Co. Wicklow Alfred Beit Foundation<br />
42 Shelton Abbey Arklow, Co. Wicklow State<br />
43 Slane Castle Slane, Co. Meath Lord Mount Charles<br />
44 Stradbally Hall Stradbally, Co. Laois Thomas Cosby<br />
45 StrokestownPark Strokestown, Co. Roscommon Westward Holdings Ltd.<br />
46 Temple House Ballymote, Co. Sligo Alexander Perceval<br />
47 Townley Hall Drogheda, Co. Louth School of Philosophy and Economic Science<br />
48 Tullynally Castle Castlepollard, Co. Westmeath Thomas Pakenham<br />
49 Tyrone House Marlborough Street D. 1 State<br />
50 Westport House Westport, Co. Mayo Lord Altamont<br />
46
LOCATION MAP<br />
47
APPENDIX II<br />
Summary of Findings <strong>for</strong> each House in Survey<br />
The summaries which follow are arranged according to<br />
the alphabetical order of the names of the houses<br />
surveyed. (The summaries <strong>for</strong> Ardgillan, Malahide and<br />
Newbridge have been amalgamated because these<br />
houses are all owned by Fingal County Council).<br />
49
Abbey Leix, Abbeyleix, Co. Laois<br />
Abbey Leix is located on the outskirts of the town of Abbeyleix in County Laois.<br />
Originally built in the 1770s <strong>for</strong> Thomas Vesey, later 1 st Viscount de Vesci, it is now<br />
owned by the Abbeyleix Group Ltd.:<br />
- Abbey Leix was designed by James Wyatt and is amongst his earliest<br />
commissions <strong>for</strong> <strong>Irish</strong> houses. The design was possibly executed under a<br />
local architect, as Wyatt does not seem to have visited Ireland until the<br />
mid-1780s when he oversaw the building of Slane Castle.<br />
- Wyatt’s designs are most noticeable in the plasterwork on the ceilings and<br />
walls of the principal rooms in the main block.<br />
- The house was extended and altered in the Italianate manner in 1859-60 to<br />
the design of T. H. Wyatt <strong>for</strong> the 3 rd Viscount de Vesci.<br />
- The demesne is noted <strong>for</strong> its magnificent collection of trees, particularly<br />
the oaks which are part of a primeval <strong>for</strong>est.<br />
- The <strong>for</strong>mal gardens were originally laid out by Lady Emma Herbert (wife<br />
of the 3 rd viscount) and were inspired by the gardens of her Russian<br />
grandfather at his palace at Yalta in the Crimea.<br />
- Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, by the time of its sale in 1994, most of the original contents<br />
of the house had been sold by the de Vescis in an attempt to maintain the<br />
house. Family portraits have, however, been retained by the present<br />
viscount.<br />
- Other alterations were carried out that affected the original integrity of the<br />
house. For example, in the 1960s the great library, with its scaliogla<br />
columns and richly framed doorcases, was partitioned into three smaller<br />
rooms.<br />
51
In 1994, the Abbeyleix Group Ltd. acquired the house and its 1,200-acre demesne, to<br />
provide a home <strong>for</strong> Sir David Davies and his family. This purchase reflects an<br />
increased interest by members of the wealthy business class, both from Ireland and<br />
overseas, in <strong>Irish</strong> country houses. The purchase and subsequent restoration of Abbey<br />
Leix has involved considerable expenditure. It has been restored and updated under<br />
the direction of John O’Connell FRIAI primarily to function as a family home.<br />
It has now become a repository of <strong>Irish</strong> art and furniture. It also contains an important<br />
collection of Wyatt furniture. The contents, many of which were original to <strong>Irish</strong><br />
country houses, have been collected by Sir David Davies over the last fifteen years<br />
primarily from sources in Ireland, Britain and the USA.<br />
The gardens have also been restored under John Anderson. The park and pleasure<br />
grounds have been re-planted and a new pinetum has been created, the first private<br />
one to be created in Ireland <strong>for</strong> over fifty years.<br />
Abbey Leix presently offers full-time and part-time employment to over thirty people.<br />
It is there<strong>for</strong>e of some importance to the local economy.<br />
At present around one third of the annual running costs of Abbey Leix are met from<br />
income generated by the estate. The remaining costs are met from trust income. While<br />
the trust has the capital to continue to carry out restoration projects, this may not<br />
always be the case <strong>for</strong> future generations. Sir David is concerned that when Abbey<br />
Leix passes to the next generation, the running of the house may not be as af<strong>for</strong>dable<br />
as it is at present. Neither is he sure that the next generation will want to be saddled<br />
with the financial burden and other responsibilities of maintaining such a large<br />
historic house.<br />
52
Aldborough House, Dublin<br />
Aldborough House is located on Portland Row in Dublin 1. Originally built by the 2 nd<br />
earl of Aldborough, it is now owned by the <strong>Irish</strong> Music Rights Organisation.<br />
Aldborough House is one of four town houses included in this survey:<br />
- It was the last great mansion to be built in Dublin city during the second<br />
half of the eighteenth century, arguably the city’s golden age. The scale<br />
and grandeur of the house – it has six principal rooms on the ground and<br />
first floors - and the size of its original garden were unprecedented at the<br />
time.<br />
- The architect is unknown but given the sheer scale of the house and its<br />
design, it most likely was a contemporary architect of note, although there<br />
has also been speculation that it was the 2nd earl of Aldborough himself.<br />
- The large <strong>for</strong>ecourt has a private chapel on one side and what was<br />
originally a theatre on the other, both attached to the house by curving<br />
wings.<br />
- The impressive cantilevered staircase is a major feature of this house.<br />
Un<strong>for</strong>tunately the house has gone through a variety of roles since it was first built. At<br />
different stages, it has been a school, a barracks, and a postal and telecommunications<br />
depot. As a result, the original fabric of the house has suffered greatly. For example,<br />
in the 1980s, when Aldborough was owned by Telecom Eireann:<br />
- The original site was compromised by the construction of a car park to<br />
provide <strong>for</strong> Telecom vans; the installation of a bank of toilets on the<br />
ground and second floors; the vertical division of rooms with studwork<br />
53
partitions in order to provide cellular offices; the surface mounting of a<br />
central heating system and a new electrical system; the re-plastering of<br />
extensive areas of the house following the treatment of dry rot.<br />
- A new concrete staircase broke the <strong>for</strong>mer link to the main house,<br />
effectively isolating one wing.<br />
- Many of these interventions are extremely crude in their design and are not<br />
easily reversible, in particular the <strong>for</strong>mer theatre which was virtually<br />
redesigned as a storehouse by Telecom.<br />
- Cement based mortars and renders were used. Short life artificial tiles were<br />
used on the roof.<br />
In short, while the building is in reasonably good structural repair, it is in a very poor<br />
state of preservation as many of the original features have been lost due to poor<br />
conservation practice and unnecessary intervention.<br />
Presently, IMRO have extensive restoration and renovation plans <strong>for</strong> the house.<br />
However, these will require a great deal of expenditure, which may be beyond the<br />
organisation.<br />
54
Ardgillan Castle, Balbriggan, Co. Dublin<br />
Malahide Castle and Newbridge House have been included in this summary as,<br />
together with Ardgillan, the three houses are all now owned by Fingal County<br />
Council.<br />
The three houses were purchased with their demesnes, by Dublin County Council:<br />
Malahide in 1975, Ardgillan in 1982, and Newbridge in1985. Their acquisition was<br />
largely influenced by the need to provide a necklace of major parks in the greater<br />
Dublin area. Today, Malahide, <strong>for</strong> example, attracts around 75,000 paying guests per<br />
annum, while the park attracts over one million visitors.<br />
Ardgillan Castle is located near Balbriggan. It is an eighteenth-century house,<br />
originally belonging to the Taylour family who were also associated with Head<strong>for</strong>t in<br />
County Meath. The central section of the house was built in 1738 and the wings were<br />
added in the late eighteenth century. Opened to the public since 1992, the furniture on<br />
show was originally provided on loan, but is now owned by the County Council<br />
Malahide Castle, is located in Malahide. It has been described as ‘the most<br />
distinguished of all <strong>Irish</strong> castles’. Until it was sold in the mid 1970s, its owners, the<br />
Talbots de Malahide, had the distinction of being the longest resident original family<br />
in an <strong>Irish</strong> country house, having lived there <strong>for</strong> almost 800 years. It has a number of<br />
interesting historical and cultural heritage features:<br />
- Malahide contains the only surviving medieval great hall in Ireland to have<br />
retained its original <strong>for</strong>m.<br />
- The rococo plasterwork is attributed to Robert West.<br />
- Some of its original contents were bought back by Bord Failte. Individuals<br />
have loaned other contents, while a number of portraits purchased by the<br />
National Gallery of Ireland are also on loan.<br />
- It houses the important MacDonnell collection of eighteenth-century <strong>Irish</strong><br />
furniture.<br />
55
- There are twenty-two acres of ornamental gardens attached to the castle<br />
containing over 5,000 different species of plants principally from the<br />
southern hemisphere.<br />
The sale of Malahide and the subsequent dispersal of one of the most important<br />
collections of contents in Ireland was one of the most deplorable consequences of the<br />
tax legislation of the pre-1980s era.<br />
Newbridge House is located near Donabate. It was built in the mid-eighteenth century<br />
<strong>for</strong> Charles Cobbe, later archbishop of Dublin. Traditionally it was believed to have<br />
been designed by Richard Castle, but recent evidence now suggests that the design<br />
may have been by James Gibbs.<br />
As a result of an agreement reached with the council, the Cobbe family agreed to<br />
leave most of the original contents in the house in return <strong>for</strong> continued right of<br />
residence in part of the house. The family also retains the right to use the principal<br />
room when the house is not opened to the public.<br />
This arrangement has meant that the house continues to offer a unique insight to its<br />
historical and cultural development:<br />
- The most splendid room in the house is the red drawing room with its<br />
rococo plaster ceiling attributed to Richard Williams.<br />
- The grounds at Newbridge provide an excellent example of eighteenthcentury<br />
landscape. It is probable that the landscape was designed by<br />
Charles Frizzell, one of the famous eighteenth-century Wex<strong>for</strong>d firm of<br />
land surveyors.<br />
While the work of Dublin (now Fingal County Council in preserving and restoring<br />
these houses is highly commendable, there are a number of concerns:<br />
- Parts of the original landscape at Malahide have been compromised<br />
(though not irreversibly) to some extent by the creation of football pitches,<br />
tennis courts, a par 3 golf course and mini golf courses, as well as an<br />
extensive children’s playground. Similarly, at Newbridge, a children’s<br />
park and playground was opened in 1999.<br />
- Standards of maintenance continue to be maintained despite shrinking<br />
budgets.<br />
- Round-the -clock security costs are an ongoing problem though probably<br />
no more so than with similar private properties.<br />
- Perhaps the greatest worry is that local authority budgets may not stretch<br />
in the future to cover the high maintenance costs of running these houses.<br />
56
Avondale, Rathdrum, Co. Wicklow<br />
Avondale is located near Rathdrum in County Wicklow. Originally built by Samuel<br />
Hayes, it later became the home of the Parnell family. It is now maintained by Coillte.<br />
Avondale was built in 1777 by Wicklow MP, Samuel Hayes, who, as an amateur<br />
architect, possibly designed it himself. It is a rather plain two-storey house over a<br />
basement, fairly typical of those built by the middling landed gentry:<br />
- <strong>Historic</strong>ally, the most significant thing about Avondale is that it was the<br />
home of Charles Stewart Parnell (1846-91), Home Rule MP, chairman of<br />
the <strong>Irish</strong> parliamentary party, president of the Land League. The house is<br />
now a museum to his memory.<br />
- About 75 per cent of the furniture of the house is original to it, much of<br />
which has come back from the National Museum.<br />
- An aspect of Avondale that is sometimes overlooked is the fact that it is<br />
also synonymous with the birth of <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>for</strong>estry. Its first owner, Samuel<br />
Hayes, was a <strong>for</strong>estry enthusiast and noted expert and writer on the<br />
planting and management of woods. When the state bought Avondale in<br />
1904, it was somewhat appropriate then that it established its first <strong>for</strong>estry<br />
school there with the result that Avondale is of central importance to<br />
silvicultural practice in this country ever since. For example, it grew the<br />
first Christmas trees planted in Ireland. Today the <strong>for</strong>est park is over 500<br />
acres in extent and is a major tourist attraction in Wicklow.<br />
57
Until 1984, the house continued to operate as a <strong>for</strong>estry college. Around 1989, a<br />
restoration programme was undertaken by Coillte, the aim being to open the house to<br />
the public as the historic home of C. S. Parnell. It is presently opened from March to<br />
October each year attracting around 40,000 paying visitors per annum (based on 2002<br />
figures.) Presently:<br />
- The house and park is regarded as a major local tourist attraction, which is<br />
of benefit to the local town of Rathdrum. The park is especially important<br />
as a local amenity with its children’s playgrounds and so on.<br />
- The house provides employment to around twelve people.<br />
- The annual Parnell Summer School is held in the conference centre.<br />
The house requires some restorative work:<br />
- The windows need to be treated; the whole house needs to be rewired; the<br />
original finish on the external walls has been coated over and this needs to<br />
be removed; a number of missing fireplaces in the upstairs rooms need to<br />
be replaced; some floors need to be replaced and the servants’ tunnel<br />
requires attention where stones have become loose and dangerous.<br />
- Outside, the management would like to convert some of the outbuildings<br />
into a <strong>for</strong>estry museum, restore the stable yard area, restore the small<br />
church built by the Parnell family and the walled garden.<br />
However, the present management fear that rising costs, particularly in areas such as<br />
insurance, may have repercussions <strong>for</strong> Coillte’s involvement with the house. There is<br />
also a fear that in order to make it profitable, the house and park might be<br />
compromised by the conversion of parts of the house or yards into commercial<br />
enterprises such as shopping malls, restaurants and so on.<br />
There is always the fear that a government body such as Coillte may be disbanded in<br />
the future.<br />
In the past, Avondale had the advantage of attracting large numbers of repeat visitors,<br />
people who tended to bring relatives, friends and so on to visit it. In the last few years,<br />
these numbers have declined. The events of September 2001 and the outbreak of Foot<br />
and Mouth the same year were also other contributory factors. This decline is<br />
worrying <strong>for</strong> any house dependent to a large extent upon tourist income.<br />
58
Ballinlough Castle, Clonmellon, Co. Westmeath<br />
Ballinlough House is located outside Ballinlough in County Westmeath. It is owned<br />
by the Nugent family.<br />
- Ballinlough is almost unique in terms of <strong>Irish</strong> country houses as it still<br />
belongs to a family of Gaelic lineage who have continued to live there<br />
since around 1415.<br />
- The original castle was reconstructed in the 1600s and later in the 1780s.<br />
The drawing-room is characterised by delicate Gothic plasterwork. The<br />
chimney-piece in this room is identical to one at Curraghmore which is<br />
known to have been designed by James Wyatt.<br />
- The hall is rather unusual <strong>for</strong> the period in which it was constructed: it<br />
rises through two storeys and is spanned by a bridge-gallery, behind which<br />
is the staircase.<br />
Ballinlough does not house an important collection of original contents. There are<br />
very few important pieces of furniture left as most were sold in the 1920s to meet the<br />
debts of the present owner’s great grandfather but it does contain a fine collection of<br />
family portraits and other paintings.<br />
The gardens and grounds are open to the public, but the house is opened only to<br />
groups. The owners argue, perhaps justifiably, that the house is too compact <strong>for</strong><br />
opening on a more in<strong>for</strong>mal basis.<br />
The house has a number of structural problems:<br />
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- There is a problem with the battlements which are cracked and leaking<br />
badly in various places.<br />
- The north tower is infested with damp; this tower is either sinking or<br />
leaning causing structural damage to the walls. The west tower is also<br />
leaking.<br />
- The ceilings on the first floor require immediate attention; large cracks<br />
have appeared in the dining-room walls and ceiling and in the front hall<br />
that are of major concern.<br />
- The windows on the second floor need to be repaired or restored (at an<br />
estimated cost of £1,500 each.)<br />
When the present family took over Ballinlough, the house was maintained by farming<br />
income and proceeds from Sir John’s business interests in England. At present the<br />
owners <strong>for</strong>esee that the only way <strong>for</strong>ward <strong>for</strong> the house is through the expansion of it<br />
as a business venture, perhaps opening to groups of guests, and continuing to open<br />
<strong>for</strong> pre-arranged lunches <strong>for</strong> groups.<br />
Photograph courtesy Hugh Doran<br />
60
Ballyfin Co. Laois<br />
Ballyfin is located near Mountrath, Co. Laois. Originially owned by the Coote family<br />
who built it in the early to mid-1820s, it was sold to the Patrician Brothers in the<br />
1920s who, in turn, sold it in April 2002 to Ballyfin Demesne Company.<br />
- Ballyfin has been described as the grandest and most lavishly appointed<br />
early nineteenth-century house in Ireland.<br />
- The chief architects involved in its design were William and Vitruvius<br />
Morrison, although the original architect was probably Dominick Madden.<br />
- The interior of the house, which has remained remarkably well intact, is<br />
also by the Morrisons, and the spatial effects and the rich plasterwork are<br />
quite magnificent. The house is <strong>for</strong>tunate in that it has escaped dry rot.<br />
Ballyfin is one of the many <strong>Irish</strong> historic houses whose role changed quite<br />
dramatically in the twentieth century when it was taken over by the Patrician Brothers<br />
and used as a school. Its new role in the twentieth century meant that the original<br />
integrity of the house and its surroundings were compromised to some extent:<br />
- The house contains virtually none of the original contents. These were sold<br />
or removed in the 1920s.<br />
- Some PVC windows were instated in the bow room over the library.<br />
- One wing has been converted to cater <strong>for</strong> a kitchen <strong>for</strong> the school and<br />
rooms have been converted into school offices, staff dining-room and so<br />
on.<br />
- A wall between the dining-room and the billiard room was demolished in<br />
order to convert the space into a chapel.<br />
- One of the original dining-room windows was replaced with a stainedglass<br />
window in order to celebrate the 150 th anniversary of the Foundation<br />
of the Patrician Brothers.<br />
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- On the bedroom floor, a number of rooms were knocked into one in order<br />
to make a dormitory.<br />
- The stables in the yard have also been converted <strong>for</strong> school purposes.<br />
The new owners, who are planning to carry out extensive restoration work over the<br />
next five years, are confident that most of the alterations carried out since the 1920s<br />
are reversible. All capital outlay is to be provided by the Ballyfin Demesne Company.<br />
At this stage:<br />
- Application has been made <strong>for</strong> planning permission to carry out repairs to<br />
the roof, gutters and parapets.<br />
- The serious problem of decaying stonework, particularly around the<br />
cornices, is being tackled.<br />
- The windows are being repaired and the PVC windows are to be replaced<br />
with the originals, which <strong>for</strong>tunately have been stored in the house since<br />
they were removed.<br />
- The school buildings constructed in the 1960s and 1970s are to be<br />
dismantled.<br />
The house is to be opened to paying guests. The new owners’ intention is that the<br />
ground floor rooms will once again function as reception rooms as they did in the<br />
nineteenth century. The owners state that the landscape will not be compromised by<br />
the construction of a golf course or the sale of sites <strong>for</strong> development purposes.<br />
62
Ballyhaise House, Ballyhaise, Co. Cavan.<br />
Ballyhaise is located on the outskirts of the village of Ballyhaise in County Cavan.<br />
Originally the home of Brockhill Newhurst and then the Humphrys family, it was sold<br />
in the early-twentieth century (c.1905) and has since been an agricultural training<br />
college. Teagasc is now responsible <strong>for</strong> the house.<br />
There are a number of reasons why Ballyhaise is of historic and cultural heritage<br />
importance:<br />
- It was built in the early 1730s to the design of Richard Castle.<br />
- One of its main architectural features is the oval room, possibly the earliest<br />
surviving room of its nature in the British Isles.<br />
- Another architectural feature is the vaulted ceilings in the basement and<br />
ground floor, similar to those at King House in County Roscommon. The<br />
stucco work is of a high quality.<br />
- The entrance hall contains a black Kilkenny marble chimneypiece believed<br />
to have been adapted from a design by Inigo Jones.<br />
- It has the distinction of being the oldest agricultural college in Ireland.<br />
Obviously, the use of the house as an agricultural training college <strong>for</strong> the best part of a<br />
century has affected the original integrity of the building:<br />
- The house has had to be modified to provide toilet facilities, kitchens,<br />
classrooms and so on. Work carried out in the 1960s, <strong>for</strong> example, such as<br />
the erection of beauty board panelling, paid little attention to the original<br />
Georgian character of the house.<br />
- The beautiful wallpaper with the peacock design in one of the main<br />
reception rooms, which was original to the house, was varnished over in an<br />
ill-judged attempt to preserve it.<br />
- In the 1980s, student accommodation blocks were built in the original<br />
walled garden.<br />
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At present, the house is structurally sound, although the roof does require some<br />
attention. It is, of course, denuded of all its original contents.<br />
The future of Teagasc will have a major bearing upon the future of this house. As a<br />
result of recent developments, this future seems somewhat uncertain.<br />
64
Bantry House, Co. Cork<br />
Bantry House is located on the outskirts of the town of Bantry in County Cork. It is<br />
owned by Egerton Shelswell White whose ancestors first built it in the early<br />
eighteenth century:<br />
- The original house dates back to around 1720. Modifications were carried<br />
out between 1820 and 1830. Victorian additions were added between 1840<br />
and 1850. The architectural wholeness represents three distinct phases.<br />
- The house continues to house a very important collection of contents,<br />
including a large collection of French, Flemish and <strong>Irish</strong> furniture, Gobelin<br />
tapestries, floor tiling from Pompeii and Savonnerie carpets. Most of the<br />
furniture and works of art were collected by 2 nd earl of Bantry during his<br />
continental tours in the first half of the nineteenth century.<br />
- The hall is a veritable treasure trove of bric-a-brac illustrative of the<br />
benefits of continental tours to <strong>Irish</strong> houses.<br />
- The dining-room is dominated by copies of Allan Ramsay’s full-length<br />
portraits of George III and Queen Charlotte. Family portraits.<br />
- The Italianate gardens with magnificent terraces on the hillside behind the<br />
house offering a stunning view across Bantry Bay. The gardens have been<br />
restored as a result of funding provided by the European Regional<br />
Development Fund through the Great Gardens of Ireland Restoration<br />
Scheme administered by Bord Failte.<br />
- In the 1940s, Bantry was probably the first <strong>Irish</strong> country house to be<br />
opened to the public.<br />
Between 1986 and 1988 a large area of the house (the entire east wing and the upper<br />
floor of the west wing) that had been unoccupied since the 1940s was restored. The<br />
65
oof was repaired and a new entrance road created. These projects were funded by<br />
money made available by the government to the Bantry area at that time. Grants have<br />
since then been provided by the <strong>Heritage</strong> Council. There remains some work to be<br />
done. For example, ten of the front windows need to be replaced, the brickwork<br />
around them requires attention as does the conservatory at the back of the house and<br />
one of the gate lodges has to be restored.<br />
Despite the richness of what remains, the fact remains that many of the house’s<br />
original contents have long since been sold off in order to finance the restoration and<br />
upkeep of the house. This is a trend that seems set to continue as the present owner<br />
has decided to sell more contents to clear bridging and terms loans (which he claims<br />
were incurred as a result of actually opening to the public.)<br />
Until 2003, eight rooms in the house were opened to provide guest accommodation,<br />
while the central portion of the house was opened daily to the public. The house was<br />
attracting up to 70,000 visitors per annum. Although this <strong>for</strong>m of business saw an<br />
annual turnover of around €1.35 million, the owner argues it was not enough to meet<br />
the high levels of outgoings.<br />
This year its owner took the decision to close the house to the public, although the<br />
gardens have remained opened. His reasons <strong>for</strong> doing so reflect the pessimistic<br />
outlook <strong>for</strong> country houses offering accommodation: the rise in wage levels; the<br />
prohibitive nature of rising public liability insurance costs (by closing everything<br />
except the gardens the present owner points out that he is saving a huge part of the<br />
premium); the further costs of wages, PRSI and VAT; large overheads particularly<br />
heating costs; and finally, the decline in tourist numbers.<br />
There has been a good deal of local disappointment to the closure of Bantry. It is<br />
generally felt that it will impact negatively upon tourism in the area with<br />
consequences <strong>for</strong> local trade.<br />
On a more positive note, the owner is definite that he wants to keep the house in the<br />
family. And he hopes to re-open next year on a less labour-intensive basis with more<br />
emphasis on using the house as a film location or <strong>for</strong> photographic shoots.<br />
66
Barmeath Castle, Dunleer, Co. Louth<br />
Barmeath Castle in County Louth is located a few miles from the town of Dunleer. It<br />
is owned by Sir Brian Bellew whose ancestors built the original castle around 800<br />
years ago.<br />
Barmeath’s importance lies in the facts that:<br />
- It is one of only a few country houses in County Louth still in the<br />
ownership of the original family.<br />
- The surviving estate takes in all of the townland of Barmeath with its<br />
original wall around it. It is recognised as an area of special scientific<br />
interest because of the woodland and the wildlife.<br />
- The house contains a good collection of original contents. The furniture is<br />
mainly eighteenth-century, but there are also some late seventeenth and<br />
early eighteenth-century paintings. Most of the family portraits have<br />
remained.<br />
- The interior of the house contains a magnificent eighteenth-century<br />
staircase; pedimented doorcases on the first floor; a Gothic fretted ceiling<br />
in the long drawing room and an impressive mid-eighteenth century library<br />
with an impressive Masonic stucco ceiling and superb eighteenth-century<br />
fitted bookcases.<br />
- There is an important family archive in situ going back to the thirteenth<br />
century, one of the very few of its kind in Ireland.<br />
- The eighteenth-century gardens were designed by Thomas Wright of<br />
Durham. The artificial lake, with its rustic ornamental hump bridge, is<br />
typical of his work. The archery ground is one of the oldest examples<br />
surviving in Ireland.<br />
The house is situated on a 300-acre estate. Of this, 200 acres are used as a dry stock<br />
farm. The owner, Sir Brian Bellew, manages the farm himself with the help of one<br />
67
other part-time employee. A farm of this size cannot possibly sustain the upkeep of<br />
such a large house. Consequently, original contents have been sold in the past to<br />
finance repairs, restoration and conservation projects. The lack of income means that:<br />
- Large areas of the house are in an advanced state of decay. For example,<br />
about fifteen years ago, one wing, a nineteenth-century addition, had to be<br />
demolished because of its dangerous state. Finances were not available to<br />
restore it.<br />
- Adequate insurance cover is unaf<strong>for</strong>dable.<br />
- Security is a huge problem. There have been a number of burglaries at the<br />
castle and valuable contents stolen.<br />
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Beaulieu, Drogheda, Co. Louth<br />
Beaulieu in County Louth is located just a few miles from the town of Drogheda. It is<br />
presently owned by Mrs Sidney Waddington and is possibly one of the most<br />
important privately owned houses in the survey:<br />
- Beaulieu was built in the 1660s by Sir William Tichborne. This is the ninth<br />
generation of the original family to have lived in this house over a period<br />
of almost 350 years.<br />
- Its historical importance lies in the fact that it was one of the first country<br />
houses to be built in Ireland without <strong>for</strong>tification. Almost all known<br />
examples of houses of this type and period have now vanished. Beaulieu is<br />
there<strong>for</strong>e unique in that it provides an example of a house that was<br />
constructed at a major turning point in the development of <strong>Irish</strong><br />
architectural design. Today it remains the finest and best-preserved<br />
country house of its period in Ireland.<br />
- Architecturally, the house has remained largely unaltered since the<br />
seventeenth century. Again, this adds to its uniqueness as most houses<br />
evolved over time and the architectural structure that survives today is<br />
often radically different to the original structure.<br />
- The interior of the house is equally as important. There is a very<br />
impressive two-storey entrance hall that contains an equally impressive<br />
chimneypiece and over-mantle that is adorned with a painting of the town<br />
of Drogheda, in its own right a valuable primary source <strong>for</strong> the historian as<br />
it depicts the town as it was in the seventeenth century. It also contains an<br />
69
impressive collection of portraits and paintings. On the east wall are two<br />
full-length portraits of King William of Orange and Queen Mary. The<br />
Queen Mary is an original. The hall also contains a painting of King<br />
William of Orange (sitting on a black horse) painted by Jan Van Wyck. Of<br />
most importance are the Baroque carved woodwork trophies symbolic of<br />
the arts and war.<br />
- The drawing-room has fine moulded panelling on the walls and a dramatic<br />
high relief plasterwork ceiling. The ceiling features work attributed to<br />
William van der Hagen. It was done in the style of Verrio, a seventeenthcentury<br />
Italian who was involved in the decoration of Windsor Castle and<br />
Hampton Court.<br />
- Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, while the house contains important works of art and<br />
furniture, the family has not managed to retain much of the original<br />
contents. These were sold at various stages during periods of financial<br />
difficulties by previous generations.<br />
The house is located on a 400-acre estate, which is leased which contributes to the<br />
running of the house along with Mrs. Waddington’s private income.<br />
According to the owner, the house is presently in ‘perfect condition’. It is one of the<br />
few houses in the survey that has all of its rooms still in use. Mrs. Waddington is<br />
confident that no major restoration or conservation work is currently necessary,<br />
except <strong>for</strong> some work on the kitchen passage.<br />
One point worth making is that in the past, when the elderly Mrs. Waddington lived<br />
alone, opening Beaulieu to the public in order to avail of tax exemptions under section<br />
482 was regarded as being very dangerous to her own personal security as well as to<br />
the security of the house.<br />
70
Bellamont Forest, Cootehill, Co. Cavan<br />
Bellamont Forest is located on the outskirts of the town of Cootehill in County Cavan.<br />
Originally built in 1730s <strong>for</strong> Thomas Coote, Lord Justice of the King’s Bench in<br />
Ireland, it is now the home of John Coote, an Australian entrepreneur:<br />
- Bellamont Forest was designed by Sir Edward Lovett Pearce, nephew of<br />
Thomas Coote.<br />
- It has been described as one of the most perfect examples of a Palladian<br />
villa in the British Isles. It is believed to have been inspired by Palladio’s<br />
Villa Rotonda at Vicenza and his Villa Pisani at Montagna.<br />
- The architectural structure of the house remains very much as it was when<br />
originally built.<br />
- The richly ornamented ceilings in the saloon and dining-room are very<br />
impressive features.<br />
- An interesting feature of the house is the broad paved passage that<br />
surrounds it at basement level like a dry moat, and a 600-feet long<br />
servants’ tunnel that connects the house to the outoffices.<br />
- The house contains none of the original contents, although the<br />
chimneypieces are original.<br />
Since 1987, Bellamont Forest and its 1,000-acre estate have been owned by John<br />
Coote who has carried out a number of important restoration and conservation<br />
projects with the result that it is, according to the owner, in very good structural<br />
condition. However, some major work remains to be done on the roof and the<br />
chimneystacks may have to be dismantled and rebuilt.<br />
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The house and estate have been placed in a trust <strong>for</strong> the owner’s son. In this regard the<br />
present owner feels that the long-term future of Bellamont is secure.<br />
72
Bellinter, Navan, Co. Meath<br />
Bellinter is located approximately six miles from the town of Navan, County Meath.<br />
Originally the home of the Preston family, it is now owned by the Sisters of Our Lady<br />
of Sion, a Roman Catholic order of nuns dedicated to the improvement of relations<br />
between the Jewish and Christian communities:<br />
- Bellinter is a Palladian house built c.1750 by John Preston to the design of<br />
Richard Castle. Part of its significance lies in the fact that it is one of the<br />
very last country houses designed by him.<br />
- The house is noted <strong>for</strong> its fine interior plasterwork, particularly in the main<br />
reception rooms.<br />
- There is a single entrance hall (rather unusual <strong>for</strong> a house of this size),<br />
which is dominated by an impressive fireplace carved from stone quarried<br />
at nearby Ardbraccan.<br />
- The spiral wooden servants’ staircase is a most unique and impressive<br />
feature.<br />
- Because the house passed from the original owners, there are no original<br />
contents left.<br />
Bellinter is now situated on a very small estate of just fourteen acres. The Sisters of<br />
Sion operate it as a centre to facilitate conferences, retreats, workshops and seminars.<br />
Accommodation facilities now include <strong>for</strong>ty-five bedrooms, a large conference hall,<br />
two lecture rooms, a games-room and two lounges. The whole house is, there<strong>for</strong>e,<br />
functional.<br />
When the Sisters of Our Lady of Sion bought the house in the early 1960s, large parts<br />
of it were in poor condition. In particular the roof was in a serious state of disrepair,<br />
part of it having been blown off in a storm, and most of what was left leaking badly.<br />
73
In the early 1970s, it was stripped and replaced. The attic and top floor were infested<br />
with dry rot and wet rot. This problem has largely been addressed. The east wing was<br />
converted to provide accommodation quarters <strong>for</strong> the sisters, while the servants’<br />
quarters in the west wing were converted to provide accommodation facilities. A<br />
further block of fourteen bedrooms was added in 1969.<br />
Despite this work, certain problems remain:<br />
- The west wing of the roof continues to cause concern.<br />
- In the 1970s, some of the original windows at the back of the house were<br />
replaced by PVC ones. The originals windows and glass are still in the<br />
possession of the owners who point out that they could be refitted if the<br />
funding was available.<br />
- More of the windows on the east wing will also have to be replaced.<br />
- The stables and outoffices are in a state of advanced dilapidation.<br />
When this author interviewed a representative of the Sisters of Our Lady of Sion, it<br />
was pointed out to him that within the next two to three years, the owners would be<br />
faced with the costs of major repairs including the roof. At the time they feared that<br />
they would not be able to raise the necessary finances to enable them to carry out this<br />
work.<br />
Developments since then illustrate the fact that the future of a house such as Bellinter,<br />
run by a religious order, is uncertain. On 14 June 2003, the Sisters of Sion issued a<br />
press statement to say that ‘following prolonged reflection by the Sisters and in<br />
consultation with the Board of Directors’, the decision had reluctantly been taken to<br />
sell Bellinter. The reasons set out <strong>for</strong> this decision exemplify the dangers facing<br />
institutionally-owned houses:<br />
‘Part of this process has been the consultation with professional advisors over<br />
the need to re-furbish and to bring the property up to the standard demanded<br />
<strong>for</strong> its use as an Adult Education and Conference Centre. The costings of this<br />
as well as its continued maintenance would be prohibitive. Another vital<br />
aspect of this consultation and reflection has been the reality of diminishing<br />
numbers of sisters able to <strong>for</strong>m and continue to remain part of the community<br />
resident in Bellinter…. It is intended that the Sisters at present living in<br />
Bellinter, will move to smaller premises.’<br />
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Belvedere, Mullingar, Co. Westmeath.<br />
Belvedere is located near Mullingar, Co. Westmeath. Originally the home of the<br />
Roch<strong>for</strong>t family, it is now owned by Westmeath County Council:<br />
- Belvedere has been described as ‘an architectural gem’. It is a 1740s villa<br />
designed once again by the highly influential Richard Castle and may<br />
possibly be the earliest bow-ended house in Ireland. Originally it was<br />
probably intended to function as a hunting lodge.<br />
- The house is noted <strong>for</strong> its delicate rococo plasterwork ceilings especially in<br />
the drawing-room, library and dining-room. The ceilings were possibly the<br />
work of Barthelemij Cramillion, a renowned French stuccodore who<br />
designed the ceilings of Mespil House in Dublin (which after its<br />
demolition in 1952 were removed to Aras an Uachtarain.) These ceilings<br />
have recently been restored.<br />
- One of the main architectural attractions of Belvedere is the sham Gothic<br />
ruin or folly, the largest in Ireland, built by Robert Roch<strong>for</strong>t, the so-called<br />
‘wicked earl’, to block out the view of Roch<strong>for</strong>t House which belonged to<br />
his brother with whom he had quarrelled. It is locally referred to as ‘the<br />
jealous wall’.<br />
- The park survives relatively intact and has been described as ‘one of the<br />
most charming planned landscapes in Ireland’, probably having been laid<br />
out by a professional landscape artist in the 1740s. In the late 1850s,<br />
Ninian Niven, curator of the Botanic Gardens in Dublin, was<br />
commissioned to draw up the plans <strong>for</strong> the further embellishment of the<br />
grounds.<br />
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- From 1912, it was the home of Col. Charles Howard-Bury, a leading<br />
member of the first European expedition to Everest in 1921, which also<br />
included George Mallory.<br />
- Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, the original contents of Belvedere were sold by Christies in<br />
1980.<br />
Westmeath County Council bought the house in 1982. Since then, the house and<br />
surroundings have gradually been restored. The process has been a slow one, largely<br />
because resources were not readily available. However, thanks largely to the fact that<br />
it was chosen as a flagship project <strong>for</strong> the area, funding was secured through the<br />
European Development Fund. Westmeath County Council also made a significant<br />
financial contribution to the restoration and development. To date, an estimated<br />
around €7 million has been spent on the restoration of the house and gardens.<br />
- The stables and parts of the basement and ground floor of the house itself<br />
have been developed and interpretation introduced. There is also an<br />
education room, a courtyard café, a gift shop, a children’s play area, a<br />
small animal sanctuary and the Belvedere Tram.<br />
- The gardens were restored under the Great Gardens of Ireland Restoration<br />
Programme in 1998. The objectives of this project were to reinstate the<br />
historic gardens, to conserve the parkland, conserve and develop the<br />
woodland and to restore and conserve ‘the jealous wall’.<br />
- In the nineteenth century the original Diocletian windows had been<br />
replaced by regular tripartite windows. These have now been restored to<br />
their original shape.<br />
The house/centre is currently managed by Ms. Sandra Peavoy on behalf of Westmeath<br />
County Council. Admission fees of €6 <strong>for</strong> adults and €3.80 <strong>for</strong> children and €85 <strong>for</strong> a<br />
season ticket are charged. The first floor of the house is closed to the general public<br />
but is opened to corporate functions, private parties, recitals, product launches and so<br />
on. Further income is generated through the shop and restaurant.<br />
Last year the centre attracted almost 70,000 visitors, almost 13,000 more than the<br />
previous year. However, because of the precarious nature of the tourist market, there<br />
is always the fear that a major downturn will have grave consequences <strong>for</strong> such a<br />
project as Belvedere. As it is, the house/centre is currently being run on a deficit.<br />
Under these conditions, it is a major challenge <strong>for</strong> the county council, even if it does<br />
at the moment consider it a valuable amenity to the county.<br />
There is a need to generate more income. Proposals are being considered to attract<br />
more conferences, to extend facilities to cater <strong>for</strong> more people, and to establish<br />
accommodation elements. It remains to be seen to what extent these developments<br />
would affect the historic fabric of the house or compromise the surroundings, but the<br />
intention is to make any further development as sympathetic as possible to the nature<br />
of the site.<br />
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Birr Castle, Birr, Co. Offaly<br />
Birr Castle is situated in the town of Birr in Co. Offaly. It is owned by Birr <strong>Trust</strong>ee<br />
Company, the sole trustee of the Oxmantown Settlement <strong>Trust</strong>, established in the time<br />
of the 6 th earl of Rosse, father of the present earl, Brendan Rosse:<br />
- Birr Castle has a medieval core, which has been extended and remodelled<br />
by over a dozen generations of the Parsons family since 1620.<br />
- Its collection of contents makes Birr Castle one of the most important<br />
houses in Ireland. Unlike most of the other houses in the survey it is<br />
extremely difficult to pick out anything specifically of note as the house is<br />
a treasure trove of furniture, paintings, portraits, memorabilia, family<br />
heirlooms and rare <strong>Irish</strong> and other antiquities. The muniments room, to<br />
take but one very simple example, contains what is reputedly Ireland’s<br />
only surviving example of Jacobean frieze. Thus, Birr offers a unique<br />
insight to the original splendour of such houses and more significantly<br />
how they evolved over the centuries.<br />
- Like most owners, the Rosses have had to sell original contents down<br />
through the years in order to carry out restoration work and to maintain the<br />
house. Some of the contents, including a couple of Guardi paintings and a<br />
particularly important suite of Chippendale furniture had to be sold in the<br />
1980s to meet debts. Lord Rosse pointed out that nothing of <strong>Irish</strong> origin<br />
was sold.<br />
- The house contains a very comprehensive and important family archive.<br />
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- The gardens are another outstanding feature. They are recognised<br />
internationally as important botanical and horticultural resources.<br />
- The park also contains what was once the largest telescope in the world, as<br />
well as possibly the earliest example of a wrought iron suspension bridge<br />
in the world, a turbine house where electricity was generated as early as<br />
1879 and reputedly the world’s earliest surviving photographic darkroom.<br />
While the castle is internally in good condition, its owners do claim that much<br />
remains to be done to the fabric:<br />
- There are serious ongoing problems with damp, particularly on the top<br />
storey, as a result of a leaking roof.<br />
- There is a consequential problem with collapsing interior plasterwork.<br />
- The workshop tower and the whole of the east wall require urgent<br />
attention.<br />
The present owner contends that of much greater import is the fact that the whole<br />
future of the castle is threatened by the capital gains tax implications of the legal<br />
structure in which it has been placed. Like many properties in the past, Birr was<br />
placed in a company with sufficient supporting assets to maintain the property and,<br />
arguably, as a means of avoiding taxation. The shares of the company were placed in<br />
a discretionary trust to facilitate the succession of generations.<br />
The continued existence of Birr is now, it is argued, dependent upon the life of Lord<br />
Rosse, whose death will trigger a discretionary trust tax liability of several million<br />
euro in the fist year, and several hundred thousand in each year following (at 6 per<br />
cent initially and 1 per cent annually thereafter on the total value of the gross estate.)<br />
To reconstruct now would be enormously expensive and any reconstruction would<br />
almost certainly be at the expense of assets, which, in turn, only leads to the continued<br />
decline of the historic and cultural worth of the property. Possibly the only means of<br />
safeguarding Birr at this stage would be to grant it some <strong>for</strong>m of exemption from the<br />
above discretionary trust tax liability of to provide the trust with charitable status.<br />
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Borris House, Borris, County Carlow.<br />
Borris House is located in Borris, County Carlow. It is owned by Andrew Kavanagh<br />
whose ancestors, the MacMurrough Kavanaghs, included Diarmaid ‘na nGall’ Mac<br />
Murchada, king of Leinster (1126-71) who was responsible <strong>for</strong> the introduction of the<br />
Normans to Ireland:<br />
- The present house was originally an eighteenth-century tower house,<br />
incorporating an old castle. It was badly damaged in 1798 and restored and<br />
castellated around 1820 to the design of Richard Morrison and his son,<br />
William Vitruvius Morrison.<br />
- The house still retains a lot of the original furniture from the earlynineteenth<br />
century reconstruction and some of the pictures. The library<br />
also dating from then is largely intact.<br />
- The family archive is in situ as the present owner believes that a house<br />
should not be separated from its intrinsic parts.<br />
Borris is supported by the income from the estate farm of around 270 acres, the<br />
woodlands of around 250 acres, a golf course and some property rents. The house is<br />
in reasonably good condition but only because a lot of work has been carried out on it<br />
in the recent past or is currently ongoing, partly funded by the <strong>Heritage</strong> Council. The<br />
whole restoration project will cost in the region of €650,000. The owner emphasises<br />
the point that the house would not have survived without state aid in the <strong>for</strong>m of<br />
substantial grants:<br />
- The house is presently being re-roofed.<br />
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- All the outside plasterwork needs to be treated, the decorative heads and<br />
moulds around the windows, which are deteriorating, all have to be<br />
restored or replaced.<br />
- There is an 1820 wing that has effectively deteriorated to a shell (although<br />
the roof is relatively intact) that needs to be restored.<br />
- The house has a dry-rot problem that needs to be eradicated.<br />
- On the demesne, the chapel has to be restored, as have a variety of<br />
outbuildings. The twenty-foot high garden wall, dating back to the 1780s,<br />
has to be partly restored.<br />
Borris is one of the few privately owned houses in the survey that does not benefit<br />
from tax exemptions under section 482 because it is not opened to the public (except<br />
in a limited way to accommodate pre-booked groups.) The present owner does not<br />
wish to open on a more regular basis <strong>for</strong> a number of reasons:<br />
- The house is relatively small and the owners feel it is important that it<br />
remains a family house; opening to the public on a regular basis would<br />
make this very difficult.<br />
- The present owner also points to the fact that the fabric of the house is<br />
fairly fragile and would not sustain a constant flow of visitors.<br />
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Castle Leslie, Glaslough, Co. Monaghan<br />
Castle Leslie, <strong>for</strong>merly known as Glaslough, is located on the outskirts of the village<br />
of Glaslough in County Monaghan. Ownership of the house is held in a trust, at<br />
present managed by Ms. Samantha Leslie whose family has been associated with the<br />
area since the seventeenth century:<br />
- Castle Leslie is a Victorian house built around 1870 by Sir John Leslie, 1 st<br />
baronet, to the design of Sir Charles Lanyon and William Henry Lynn. It<br />
is, there<strong>for</strong>e, one of only a very few country houses built after the Famine<br />
by <strong>Irish</strong> landlords (as opposed to houses such as Kylemore, St. Anne’s,<br />
and Farmleigh built by industrialists, merchants, bankers and so on.)<br />
- Amongst its chief architectural features is an Italian Renaissance cloister<br />
said to have been copied from Michelangelo’s cloister at Santa Maria in<br />
Florence.<br />
- The decorative work on the ceilings of the dining-room and the drawingroom<br />
and the Della Robbia chimneypiece in the drawing-room are all<br />
impressive features.<br />
- The house contains a very important collection of original contents.<br />
- The Leslies were related to the Churchills through marriage: Sir John<br />
Leslie’s wife, Leonie Jerome, was the sister of Sir Winstons Churchill’s<br />
mother, Jennie. Sir Winston’s christening robes are on display in Castle<br />
Leslie.<br />
- It is the ancestral home of Sir Shane Leslie, author, playwright, Gaelic<br />
Leaguer and Celtic Revivalist.<br />
- The very important and extensive family archive has recently been sold to<br />
the National Library of Ireland.<br />
The house is located on a 500-acre estate, which is let on conacre. The house is run by<br />
Samantha Leslie as a restaurant and country house hotel. In this way, it is a major<br />
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source of local employment; in 2001-02, around thirty people were employed there in<br />
a full-time or part-time capacity.<br />
Major restoration work has been carried out on about two thirds of the house in the<br />
last number of years, including the securing of the roof. This was done through a<br />
mixture of borrowing, the sale of veneer timber from the estate woods, the sale of<br />
house contents and archives, as well as small grants from a variety of different bodies.<br />
Major work remains to be done:<br />
- The long gallery wing and the old kitchens, all of which are in an<br />
advanced state of decay, are in urgent need of restoration. The estimated<br />
cost of this work is in the region of €1.25 million.<br />
- The conservatory has collapsed allowing water into the back of the west<br />
wing.<br />
- The west wing is very badly affected by dry rot, which is spreading<br />
quickly towards the main house.<br />
- The outoffices are in an advanced state of disrepair.<br />
The future of this house depends very much upon the tourist industry remaining<br />
vibrant. It is not likely to survive from estate income.<br />
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Charlemont House, Dublin<br />
Charlemont House is located in Parnell Square in Dublin. Originally the home of the<br />
earl of Charlemont, it is now owned by Dublin City Council and functions as the<br />
Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art:<br />
- This three-storey house was built in the 1760s to the design of William<br />
Chambers. In the 1780s, James Gandon was involved in the remodelling of<br />
the house. Its original <strong>for</strong>m has been described as ‘art of the highest order<br />
… an art of the intellect where the smallest detail played a crucial role in<br />
the design.’<br />
In 1869, the British government purchased the house <strong>for</strong> around £3,000. Around this<br />
time, the library wing and the back rooms on the bottom floor were demolished. The<br />
original front rooms were rearranged, as was the entrance front. The library was<br />
dispersed and most of the original fittings of the house were removed around the same<br />
time and brought to the Charlemont country estate at Roxborough Co. Tyrone.<br />
Following the establishment the <strong>Irish</strong> Free State the house passed into the hands of the<br />
Government. In 1929, it was reconstituted as an art gallery.<br />
The house is said to be in very good condition and architecturally sound, requiring no<br />
major renovations or restoration work. There are no plans to carry out alterations to<br />
the original building but there are plans to extend the gallery.<br />
This author was in<strong>for</strong>med that the house will continue to fulfil its present role into the<br />
future and in that respect there are no fears <strong>for</strong> its survival.<br />
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Clonalis House, Castlerea, Co. Roscommon<br />
Clonalis House is located about six miles west of Castlerea in County Roscommon.<br />
Its present owner is Pyers O’Conor Nash:<br />
- Clonalis is one of the few houses originally built by a Gaelic family that<br />
have survived.<br />
- Like Castle Leslie, it is one of the very few <strong>Irish</strong> country houses built after<br />
the Famine, having been completed in 1880 to replace a late seventeenthcentury<br />
house, the ruins of which can still be seen in the demesne. It was<br />
reputedly the first mass concrete house built in Ireland.<br />
- The house was designed by Frederick Pepys Cockerell, an English<br />
architect, who died prematurely in 1879, a short time be<strong>for</strong>e Clonalis was<br />
completed.<br />
- The house is unusual in that architecturally it is a peculiar mix of Queen<br />
Anne Revival and Victorian Italianate styles. Its main architectural<br />
features include an impressive high entrance hall, the modillion ceiling<br />
cornice of which is supported by arches and Ionic columns of pink Mallow<br />
marble; its oak and pitch-pine staircase; its library with its very important<br />
collection of over 5,000 books as well as its invaluable and substantial<br />
archive which includes over 100,000 historical letters and other<br />
documents.<br />
- <strong>Historic</strong>ally, Clonalis is an important house because of its association with<br />
the O’Conor Dons, descendants of the last high kings of Ireland, whose<br />
associations with the lands of Clonalis can be traced back at least 1,500<br />
years. The reputed inauguration stone of the O’Conors can be seen beside<br />
the hall door (having been moved there from its original location at<br />
Rathcroghan, about nine miles away.)<br />
- The contents of Clonalis add greatly to its cultural heritage value. The<br />
contents comprise the portraits, family papers, objects d’art and<br />
memorabilia of a family stretching back over 500 years.<br />
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- Clonalis House places in context much of the architectural heritage of the<br />
west and midland areas as the O’Conors built Ballintubber Castle, held<br />
Roscommon Castle as a stronghold over three centuries and founded<br />
abbeys at Ballintubber, Knockmoy, Roscommon and Cong.<br />
Clonalis is in relatively good condition. Major improvements have been carried out in<br />
recent years with the help of American donations. However, there are some problems:<br />
- Because the house was built with concrete, there are fears that it may<br />
deteriorate very rapidly after a given period.<br />
- Much of the parkland and woodland is over-mature and requires urgent<br />
attention.<br />
- The house is situated on a 700-acre estate. (Around 1,300 acres had to be<br />
sold when the present owner took over in order to meet inheritance tax.)<br />
The farm, which is worked extensively, is barely viable. It employs only<br />
one man and the present owner states that the farm income does little more<br />
than pay his wages. The other source of income comes from the opening of<br />
the house to the public from June to September. The house income is<br />
merely adequate to take care of the day-to-day maintenance costs; it is not<br />
sufficient to finance major repairs or renovations. To supplement house<br />
and farm income, the present owner works away from Clonalis so that<br />
funds derived from the property can be dedicated solely to its maintenance<br />
- The present insurance policy does not cover storm damage. A severe<br />
financial crisis could, there<strong>for</strong>e, result from serious damage to the roof.<br />
Insurance premiums are exorbitantly high, accounting <strong>for</strong> around 20 per<br />
cent of the house’s income.<br />
- The present owner has great security worries, given the importance of the<br />
contents of the house. Like many owners, he has the continuous worry of<br />
casual visitors who may be ‘casing the joint’.<br />
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Curraghmore, Portlaw, Co. Water<strong>for</strong>d<br />
Curraghmore is located outside the village of Portlaw in County Water<strong>for</strong>d. The<br />
present Lord Water<strong>for</strong>d is a direct descendant of the Le Poers (or Powers) who arrived<br />
in Water<strong>for</strong>d towards the end of the twelfth century and who later settled in Portlaw:<br />
- Curraghmore dates back to the sixteenth century, although the original<br />
castle tower that <strong>for</strong>ms part of the existing house pre-dates it by some time.<br />
- Curraghmore was enlarged and remodelled at various stages during the<br />
eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Important architects involved in the<br />
remodelling of Curraghmore included James Wyatt who worked there in<br />
the 1780s. The dining-room is regarded as being among the two or three<br />
finest Wyatt rooms in Ireland. He also designed the blue and yellow<br />
drawing-rooms, the library and a number of smaller rooms.<br />
- The central tower block overlooks a very large <strong>for</strong>ecourt (550 feet long<br />
and 192 feet wide) with long stable ranges on either side characterised by<br />
pedimented archways with blocked columns and pilasters. This feature is<br />
unique to Ireland and, in fact, there are only one or two examples of it in<br />
Britain. It is more commonly seen on the continent. Its inspiration was<br />
probably Vanbrugh’s Blenheim and Seaton Delaval. There is no evidence<br />
as to the date or architect of the courtyard, but it was possibly designed by<br />
John Roberts of Water<strong>for</strong>d.<br />
- Regarding the interior, the stucco-work at Curraghmore has been described<br />
as being of ‘great delicacy and charm’. The intricately designed ceiling in<br />
the billiard room is the work of the internationally regarded Francini<br />
brothers.<br />
- The four roundels on the dining-room ceiling, depicting the four seasons,<br />
have been attributed to Antonio Zucchi or his wife Angelica Kauffman.<br />
The grisaille panels on the walls are by Peter de Gree.<br />
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- The demesne is one of the most extensive and attractive in Ireland,<br />
encompassing about 2,500 acres inside a demesne wall, which has a radius<br />
of twelve miles.<br />
- There is a shell-house on the demesne which dates back to the mideighteenth<br />
century, built and decorated personally by Catherine la Poer,<br />
Countess of Tyrone and heiress to the property in 1754, which is one of<br />
the most spectacular examples of its type in this country.<br />
Recently, much work has been carried out on the conservation of the windows at<br />
Curraghmore, part funded by the Water<strong>for</strong>d County Council. However, the roof is of<br />
ongoing concern.<br />
The present owner is concerned that recent European Union legislation is curtailing<br />
the estate company’s ability to generate income by preventing the cutting down of<br />
trees on the demesne. In the past this has been a very valuable source of income.<br />
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Dunsany Castle, Dunsany, Co. Meath.<br />
Dunsany Castle is located outside the village of Dunsany, Co. Meath. It is presently<br />
owned by Edward Plunkett, Lord Dunsany:<br />
- Dunsany is one of the oldest surviving country houses in Ireland and<br />
probably the oldest one in Ireland associated with a single family. It was<br />
originally a castle founded very late in the twelfth century by Hugh de<br />
Lacy which in 1403 passed by marriage to Sir Christopher Plunkett whose<br />
second son was later to become 1 st Baron Dunsany.<br />
- Through successive generations, Dunsany was modified and remodelled.<br />
Some of the most significant changes took place in the 1840s under the<br />
renowned architect, James Shiel.<br />
- Because Dunsany has survived <strong>for</strong> over 800 years and because it has been<br />
reshaped down through the ages, it provides a microcosmic insight to the<br />
changing tastes and fashions of country house owners from the beginning<br />
of such houses right down to the present day.<br />
- Its present architectural features include a late eighteenth-century entrance<br />
hall, which is rather less dramatic than that of most great houses. The<br />
blend of the old with the modern is very striking in this hall. Beyond the<br />
entrance hall is a very dramatic late nineteenth-century three-storey<br />
staircase. The plasterwork on some of the ceilings is the work of Michael<br />
Stapleton. The library, designed by Shiel, is characterised by Gothic<br />
bookcases.<br />
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- Dunsany has historical associations with the 18 th Lord Dunsany, prolific<br />
author, poet and significant figure in the <strong>Irish</strong> Revival, as well as his uncle<br />
Sir Horace Plunkett, agricultural re<strong>for</strong>mer and founder of the <strong>Irish</strong> Cooperative<br />
movement who spent much of his time there.<br />
- The house also has a collateral association with St. Oliver Plunkett. Some<br />
of his belongings are on display in the house, including his watch and ring<br />
and what is reputed to be his crozier.<br />
- Dunsany houses a valuable collection of furniture, paintings, book and<br />
prints. There is still a significant family archive, most of which dates from<br />
c.1750.<br />
Dunsany is one of the very few country houses in the possession of the original<br />
families that was <strong>for</strong>tunate enough to have had a very wealthy owner (the 16 th Lord<br />
Dunsany) in the 1930s and early 1940s. For this reason, it is possibly in a better<br />
condition than one might expect of a house of its age. However, simply because of its<br />
age and, indeed, size, restoration and conservation work at Dunsany is continuously<br />
ongoing:<br />
- All the roofs require constant attention. In the 1870s, changes were carried<br />
out at Dunsany under the guidance of Sir Gilbert Scott. He was responsible<br />
<strong>for</strong> removing the eighteenth-century lead from the house and replacing it<br />
with ashfelt. The ashfelt has now cracked, allowing water to seep into the<br />
concrete underneath and there is now the danger that the concrete could<br />
collapse into the rooms below. The roof is thus an immediate problem but<br />
one that is presently unaf<strong>for</strong>dable due to the huge cost involved.<br />
- Also during the Scott renovations, steel lintels were put into the windows<br />
on a new extension, which have subsequently rusted and expanded putting<br />
pressure on the surrounding brickwork. These lintels and surrounding<br />
stone facings will have to be replaced.<br />
- The previous generation of owners kept the main part of the house in<br />
reasonably good condition but they allowed the wings to fall into<br />
dereliction.<br />
- There is a possibility that the rising damp problem in the house is much<br />
more serious than it seems. Work is currently ongoing to deal with the<br />
humidity problem that is building at the base of the walls. This requires the<br />
installation of per<strong>for</strong>ated pipes leading to the various shores, which is an<br />
expensive process.<br />
- Outside the aesthetically challenged galvanised stables erected in 1907<br />
when the present owner’s grandfather became Master of Foxhounds to the<br />
Meath Hunt are in an advanced state of dilapidation.<br />
With considerable hard work and ef<strong>for</strong>t, Lord and Lady Dunsany have made the estate<br />
financially self-sufficient and the prospect <strong>for</strong> the future is secure.<br />
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Ely House, Dublin<br />
Ely House is located at Ely Place in Dublin City. Originally built in 1771 <strong>for</strong> Henry<br />
Loftus, Earl of Ely, it is now owned by the Knights of St. Columbanus.<br />
Ely has many distinctive interior architectural features:<br />
- The staircase is regarded as one of the finest in any Georgian house in<br />
Ireland. It consists of three flights of Portland stone with a life-size figure<br />
of Hercules, also cut from Portland stone, at the bottom. The handrail is of<br />
carved mahogany on a panelled balustrade which is decorated with gilt<br />
figures of animals and birds emblematic of the labours of Hercules.<br />
- The staircase is lit by a large Venetian window, which occupies the full<br />
breadth of the wall on the half-landing.<br />
- The elaborate stucco-work in the various rooms is amongst the most<br />
impressive surviving in any historic house. Most of it is attributed to<br />
Michael Stapleton, the outstanding <strong>Irish</strong> stuccodore of his time.<br />
- The Adam-style dining room on the ground floor is regarded as one of the<br />
finest Georgian rooms in the country.<br />
- The mantelpieces of Sienna and Carrara marble are other outstanding<br />
features of this house.<br />
The present condition of the house is fairly good but like most historic houses, it has<br />
its fair share of problems:<br />
- In order to af<strong>for</strong>d the maintenance of the house, parts of it are leased. Its<br />
original integrity has been partly compromised by the creation of moderntype<br />
offices in the house, which are used by Fás, a Thai restaurant in the<br />
basement and the installation of modern toilets on different levels. The fact<br />
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that a large volume of people travels through the house every day also has<br />
its consequences.<br />
- The roof is said to be in poor condition, requiring a great deal of<br />
expenditure. The chimneys are in a delicate state and at least one of them<br />
requires urgent attention.<br />
- There are cracks in the entrance hall stonework.<br />
- There are dips in the floors of some of the main reception rooms.<br />
- Some areas of the house show evidence of damp, particularly the back<br />
wall. It needs to be restored using a lime-based plaster, which the owners<br />
say is not af<strong>for</strong>dable at this particular moment.<br />
The owners say that despite having made application to various state and other bodies<br />
<strong>for</strong> grant aid, none has been <strong>for</strong>thcoming.<br />
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Enniscoe, Crossmolina, Co. Mayo<br />
Enniscoe is located outside the town of Crossmolina in County Mayo. It is presently<br />
owned by Mrs Susan Kellett who is a direct lineal descendant of the Jackson family<br />
who built it:<br />
- Enniscoe is an attractive, small, two-storey Georgian house dating to<br />
around 1790, probably to the design of John Roberts.<br />
- It has been described as ‘a pure Georgian house’ meaning that because the<br />
family was short of funds from the early nineteenth century, no<br />
remodelling or even alterations were carried out in the Victorian or later<br />
eras to change its structure or character.<br />
- It is one of only about three houses in Mayo that have survived with the<br />
original families and with their original contents. The collection of<br />
contents, it should be noted, is quite small, most of them having been sold<br />
or removed in the 1830s as a result of family circumstances.<br />
- The interior of the house is characterised by very elegant late-Georgian<br />
Adamesque plasterwork.<br />
- No archives survive <strong>for</strong> the pre-1834 period but there is a good archive <strong>for</strong><br />
the period thereafter, which is currently kept in the house and is being<br />
copied and indexed in the heritage centre on site.<br />
The house is located on an estate of 160 acres, which is totally insufficient to maintain<br />
a house of this size. At present, the house is successfully run as a country house bed<br />
and breakfast. The house, along with its interpretative centre, gardens, shop, tearooms<br />
and so on, is now the biggest employer in the area.<br />
Structurally, the condition of the house is quite good, mainly because a lot of money<br />
has been expended upon it since 1984, including funding from the <strong>Heritage</strong> Council<br />
and the <strong>Irish</strong> Georgian Society. As a result:<br />
- There are no dry rot problems.<br />
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- The plasterwork has been restored and various rooms have been<br />
redecorated.<br />
- Some of the outbuildings have been restored and converted into an<br />
interpretative centre. Some have been converted into self-catering<br />
accommodation units.<br />
- Because the house is run as a business, some modifications were necessary<br />
such as the installation of bathrooms. Care was taken that these<br />
renovations would not affect the integrity of the house.<br />
However, problems do still remain:<br />
- Major repairs are an enormous and continuous drain on income.<br />
- As with most country houses, the roof requires attention. At present<br />
funding is being sought <strong>for</strong> this particular project.<br />
- The upkeep of the house is dependent upon the tourist market. At the<br />
moment, the owner stresses that this market is not as good as it has been in<br />
the past.<br />
- Insurance costs are described as ‘horrendous’, thus the house is not insured<br />
<strong>for</strong> its full reinstatement value.<br />
- The owner admits that ‘the future of this property is by no means secure.’<br />
Because of its manageable size, it is very much a marketable house that<br />
could be quite easy to sell.<br />
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Glin Castle, Glin, Co. Limerick<br />
Glin Castle is located about one mile west of Glin village in Co. Limerick. It is<br />
presently owned by Desmond FitzGerald, 29 th Knight of Glin, whose family<br />
associations with the area date back to the early fourteenth century:<br />
- Glin was built in the 1780s by Col. John FitzGerald, 24 th Knight of Glin,<br />
originally as a three-storey double bow-fronted house with a long service<br />
wing that incorporated a seventeenth century thatched ‘long house’. It was<br />
subsequently castellated by his successor.<br />
- Over the last number of years, Glin has been splendidly restored. Even the<br />
third floor of the main block that had not actually been completed in the<br />
eighteenth century has now been finished. Glin, there<strong>for</strong>e, offers a sharp<br />
contrast to the other great houses in the survey:<br />
o It has been said of Glin that ‘no <strong>Irish</strong> museum or country house<br />
presents such an integrated view of the eighteenth and early<br />
nineteenth centuries.’<br />
o The entrance hall is devoted to FitzGerald history, its walls covered<br />
by family portraits. The main architectural feature of the hall is a<br />
Portland stone chimneypiece.<br />
o The house is characterised by superb woodwork, particularly the<br />
unique ‘flying’ bifurcating grand staircase.<br />
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o The neo-Classical plasterwork of the hall is possibly the work of<br />
Dublin stuccodores – Charles Thorpe or Michael Stapleton. The<br />
other neo-Classical ceilings are believed to be the work of local<br />
stuccodores.<br />
o It houses a unique collection of <strong>Irish</strong> furniture and <strong>Irish</strong> paintings,<br />
much of which has been collected by the present owner (including<br />
much of the original furniture sold out of the house in the past.)<br />
Many of the original family portraits survive.<br />
o The archives, which date mainly from the nineteenth and twentieth<br />
centuries, are on deposit in the University of Limerick.<br />
The house is located on an estate of around 400 acres, which is mainly run as a dairy<br />
farm. Glin itself is run as a country house hotel. During peak season, it offers<br />
employment to around twenty-five people.<br />
The future of Glin is not without difficulties:<br />
- Farming does not provide the necessary income to maintain a house such<br />
as Glin. Its success as a hotel is, there<strong>for</strong>e, vital. The present owner<br />
emphasised the serious repercussions that 11 September 2001 and an<br />
outbreak of Foot and Mouth the same year had upon the tourist industry in<br />
general and to their trade in particular.<br />
- The contents of the house are not insured <strong>for</strong> their full value; it is simply<br />
not af<strong>for</strong>dable.<br />
- There is a fear that at some stage in the future, the important contents of<br />
the house may have to be sold off in order to continue to maintain the<br />
house.<br />
- The present owner has three daughters. Like many other owners he argues<br />
that there is no guarantee that the future generations will be willing to<br />
make the sacrifices of his generation to keep the house going. The future<br />
of Glin is, there<strong>for</strong>e, very uncertain.<br />
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Hamwood, Dunboyne, Co. Meath<br />
Hamwood is located near Dunboyne in County Meath. It has been home to the<br />
Hamilton family since 1764:<br />
- Hamwood is a very important mid-sized Palladian house of unusual<br />
design.<br />
- The house is in good structural repair, major work having recently been<br />
carried out reinstating and replacing sash windows as well as work to the<br />
roof. The <strong>for</strong>mer was part funded by the <strong>Irish</strong> Georgian Society.<br />
- All the rooms are in use, and the house is regularly open to visitors by<br />
appointment.<br />
- The original contents are largely intact with eighteenth-century <strong>Irish</strong><br />
furnishings and memorabilia overlain with important nineteenth and<br />
twentieth century additions.<br />
- The gardens of Hamwood, which are open to the public, contain a rare<br />
collection of trees and shrubs collected in the nineteenth century. The<br />
pinewalk contains giant Cali<strong>for</strong>nian redwoods and Japanese maples. The<br />
walled garden contains a rock garden created in 1802.<br />
The house is maintained by private income. The farm which is attached is relatively<br />
small and let on conacre.<br />
Photograph courtesy of Hugh Doran<br />
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Head<strong>for</strong>t, Kells, County Meath.<br />
Head<strong>for</strong>t House is located outside the town of Kells in County Meath. Originally<br />
owned by the Taylour family, it now functions as a preparatory boarding school<br />
managed by a board of trustees:<br />
- Head<strong>for</strong>t is a very large but very plain house built between 1760 and 1770<br />
by Sir Thomas Taylour, 1 st Lord Head<strong>for</strong>t, to the design of George<br />
Semple. The Taylour family connection with the house lasted until around<br />
the mid-1990s when it was sold to the school that had been leasing it since<br />
1949.<br />
- <strong>Historic</strong>ally and architecturally it is extremely important because of its<br />
association with Robert Adam who designed the principal rooms. Adam<br />
had an immense influence on domestic architecture in Britain and Ireland.<br />
This is his only country house work in Ireland to have survived in its<br />
entirety.<br />
- The importance of the Adam interiors is emphasised by the fact that the<br />
World Monument Fund is currently considering Head<strong>for</strong>t <strong>for</strong> listing on its<br />
100 most endangered sites in the world.<br />
- The Head<strong>for</strong>t archive on deposit in the National Library of Ireland<br />
constitutes one of the most comprehensive <strong>Irish</strong> country house and estate<br />
archives.<br />
- The house is centred on a demesne that is characterised by fine mature<br />
woodland, most notably the pinetum which was laid out at the beginning<br />
of the twentieth century and which contains over 250 species of trees.<br />
Head<strong>for</strong>t began the transition to preparatory school in 1947. Because of its changing<br />
role, a number of alterations were necessary in the past that compromised the original<br />
integrity of the house, although it should be emphasised that most of these alterations<br />
seem reversible:<br />
- The ground floor rooms in the central block of the house are now used as<br />
offices.<br />
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- On the first and second floors, rooms that were previously used as<br />
bedrooms are now used as classrooms. Toilets have been installed on both<br />
floors.<br />
- Some rooms have been subdivided to provide bedrooms and bathrooms <strong>for</strong><br />
staff members.<br />
- Outside, metal fire escape stairs were erected on the east and west facades<br />
and a bathroom block was added to the west wing.<br />
Some restoration work has been carried out on the house in the recent past. Around<br />
€170,000, <strong>for</strong> example, has been spent on the roof. Much more needs to be done:<br />
- The rainwater disposal system requires urgent attention. All the downpipes<br />
need to be replaced.<br />
- The pointing between the frame and masonry of windows needs repair in<br />
order to prevent water ingress.<br />
- On the inside of the house, there is evidence of damp penetration that is<br />
causing a deterioration of internal finishes, particularly at the east end of<br />
the magnificent eating parlour. Because the wall decoration in this room is<br />
of such architectural importance, it is essential that the spreading damp be<br />
eradicated.<br />
- Dry rot has recently manifested itself on the ground floor passage.<br />
- As in many country houses, the electrical installation is quite old and<br />
needs to be replaced as a matter of urgency.<br />
The plans are <strong>for</strong> the house to continue as a school into the future. A great deal of<br />
financial assistance is necessary from outside if the historic fabric of the house is to<br />
survive. As a charitable trust, the school has limited funds available to it. Because of<br />
its limited public access, it may not be able to secure funding such as county council<br />
grants. A fund-raising campaign has now been launched to raise €2.3 million to<br />
renovate the Adam rooms, restore the gardens and generally refurbish the school.<br />
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Hilton Park, Clones, Co. Monaghan<br />
Hilton Park is located near Clones in County Monaghan. It is owned by John Madden,<br />
whose ancestors built the house in 1734:<br />
- Hilton Park is one of only three great houses in Monaghan still in the<br />
ownership of the original families.<br />
- It contains an important collection of furniture, dating from 1820 to around<br />
1875.<br />
- The pleasure grounds and gardens have been restored thanks to funding<br />
from the European Union.<br />
Its main problems are:<br />
- The maintenance of the house is very much dependent upon farming and<br />
tourism and at present the 400-acre estate is simply not enough to maintain<br />
a house of this size.<br />
- To supplement income, the house now operates as a country house bed and<br />
breakfast from April to September and caters <strong>for</strong> house parties in the<br />
winter. Opening to the public as a guesthouse was not easy in the 1980s<br />
given Hilton Park’s close proximity to the border and the attendant<br />
tensions in the Clones area. Neither was it economically viable given the<br />
poor image of Monaghan as a tourist attraction area. However, following<br />
the easing of border tensions from the early 1990s as a result of the peace<br />
process, business has gradually improved.<br />
- Contents have had to be sold off in the past. There was a large auction in<br />
1984, which was necessary to refinance the running of the house and to<br />
carry out the refurbishment necessary to make it suitable <strong>for</strong> a bed and<br />
breakfast. Much of the family porcelain, <strong>for</strong> example, was sold.<br />
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- The only insurance that the owner now has is public and employee<br />
liability. He has not had fire or burglary insurance <strong>for</strong> fifteen years because<br />
it is unaf<strong>for</strong>dable.<br />
- The house requires some major conservation work:<br />
o The roof is in urgent need of replacement. The lead is 125 years<br />
old.<br />
o Two of the armorial windows also need replacement, at a cost of at<br />
least €12,000 each. The present owner argues that the rising costs<br />
of maintenance have made it extremely difficult to af<strong>for</strong>d this type<br />
of necessary work.<br />
o The courtyard is in serious disrepair as the owner has not to date<br />
found a means of generating revenue from these buildings.<br />
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Johnstown Castle, Co. Wex<strong>for</strong>d<br />
Johnstown Castle is located a short distance from Wex<strong>for</strong>d town. Originally the<br />
ancestral home of the Esmonde family, it is now owned by the state and run by<br />
Teagasc (Food and Agricultural Authority):<br />
- The castle was last rebuilt around 1840 to the design of Daniel Robertson,<br />
perhaps more noted <strong>for</strong> his design of Powerscourt Gardens in Wicklow. It<br />
is a fine example of Gothic-Revival architecture.<br />
- The last private owner, Capt. M. V. Lakin, gifted the house to the state in<br />
1945. It was taken over by the Department of Agriculture that year which<br />
undertook to maintain but not alter ‘the ornamental nature of the gardens<br />
and pleasure grounds of the estate’.<br />
- The grounds continue to be maintained to a very high standard, attracting<br />
up to 40,000 visitors per annum. The demesne includes three man-made<br />
lakes. The landscaping of the surrounding grounds, including the<br />
construction of the castle lake, may also have been the work of Daniel<br />
Robertson.<br />
- The complex now also includes the <strong>Irish</strong> Agricultural Museum which is<br />
located in the old farmyard, about 100 metres from the castle. It attracts<br />
around 30,000 visitors per annum.<br />
- The castle is actually located in a prime tourist area. Over 1.5 million<br />
tourists arrive at Rosslare every year, which is only a few miles away. As<br />
Johnstown is one of only a few surviving country houses between<br />
Wex<strong>for</strong>d and Dublin as one travels north, its commercial capacity could be<br />
exploited much more fully.<br />
Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, the castle has not been maintained to a high standard:<br />
- The original integrity of the house has suffered greatly as a result of its use<br />
as a residential agricultural college from 1945 to 1960 and its continued<br />
use thereafter as a research institute. Rooms were converted into<br />
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laboratories, classrooms and offices <strong>for</strong> soil research with little regard <strong>for</strong><br />
the historic integrity of the house. The main bedroom, <strong>for</strong> example, has<br />
become an office. Toilets and shower facilities were installed. The original<br />
main staircase was taken out to create a large dining hall <strong>for</strong> staff and<br />
students. An original tower house of pre-Cromwellian origin was<br />
demolished by the Board of Works in the 1940s. The billiard room was<br />
divided into offices.<br />
- There are very few contents original to the house – possibly no more than<br />
twenty pieces or so.<br />
- A conditions survey was carried out over five years ago at a cost of<br />
£250,000. Amongst its proposals were:<br />
o The restoration of the roof as the main priority. In the past minor<br />
leaks were not attended to with the result that they have caused<br />
magnified damage including damage to interior plasterwork.<br />
o The electrical wiring needs to be overhauled.<br />
o The drainage system needs to be completely overhauled.<br />
It is estimated that the restoration project will cost around €5 million. The castle and<br />
garden are at present in a bureaucratic limbo. A decision in principle has been taken<br />
that they will have to be handed back to the Board of Works <strong>for</strong> restoration and<br />
subsequent management.<br />
As a combined attraction the castle, ornamental grounds and agricultural museum<br />
offer large potential as a flag ship tourism and educational facility <strong>for</strong> the south-east<br />
region.<br />
104
Killadoon, Co. Kildare.<br />
Killadoon is located on the outskirts of Celbridge in Co. Kildare. It is owned by<br />
Charles Clements whose ancestors built the house in 1765:<br />
- Killadoon is one of only four country houses in Co. Kildare that has<br />
survived in the ownership of the original families.<br />
- The house was built <strong>for</strong> Robert Clements MP (later 1 st earl of Leitrim), the<br />
eldest son of Nathaniel Clements MP, a prominent figure in eighteenthcentury<br />
Dublin. The present owners are the sixth generation of the family<br />
to reside there.<br />
- The house contains an important collection of contents, which has allowed<br />
it to retain much of its eighteenth-century character.<br />
- One of its most impressive rooms is the drawing room which has remained<br />
almost exactly as it was when redecorated by the 2 nd earl of Leitrim in the<br />
1820s (the wallpaper, carpet, curtains and much of the furniture in the<br />
room dates to this time.)<br />
The present owner inherited the property from his cousin. In this transfer, he paid<br />
55% Death Duties in 1974 and 40% Capital Acquisitions Tax in 1991. He points out<br />
that the resulting dissipation of assets has severely compromised the family’s ability<br />
to maintain the property.<br />
Since 1991, significant conservation and restoration works have been carried out by<br />
the present owner. However, he points out that much of the increasingly urgent<br />
maintenance requirements, including the eradication of a serious dry rot problem, are<br />
beyond the scope of his financial abilities.<br />
105
106
Killruddery, Bray, Co. Wicklow<br />
Killruddery is located on the outskirts of the town of Bray in County Wicklow. It is<br />
the home of Lord and Lady Meath whose family, the Brabazons, have been associated<br />
with the area since the early seventeenth century:<br />
- Killruddery is one of the earliest examples of an Elizabethan-Revival<br />
mansion in Ireland. It was built in the 1820s to the design of Richard and<br />
William Morrison, incorporating part of the earlier seventeenth-century<br />
house.<br />
- It houses an important collection of furniture, much of which is original to<br />
the house.<br />
- The impressive domed conservatory, added in 1852, now referred to as the<br />
orangery, was recently restored thanks to EU funding. Originally, it was<br />
designed by William Burn to replicate the Crystal Palace on a miniature<br />
scale.<br />
- The domed ceiling above the staircase, hall and gallery is reputed to have<br />
been taken from designs by Inigo Jones and executed by a local man<br />
named Henry Popje in 1830.<br />
- The <strong>for</strong>ecourt of the house was designed by Daniel Robertson, the<br />
landscape architect involved in the design of the gardens at Powerscourt.<br />
- The French-Baroque gardens, reputedly laid out in 1684, are the oldest<br />
<strong>for</strong>mal gardens in Ireland to have retained their original design and are of<br />
great national importance. In fact, they are regarded as being amongst the<br />
most important <strong>for</strong>mal gardens anywhere in Great Britain or Ireland.<br />
- The house contains a very valuable family archive.<br />
In the 1950s, the discovery of dry rot allied to economic necessity demanded that<br />
parts of the house be demolished. However, a great deal of Morrison’s design and<br />
architecture remains, including the drawing-room and the dining-room with their fine<br />
ceilings. While the structure of the present house is reasonably sound and the roof is<br />
in good condition, there are a number of areas that do require attention:<br />
- The existing plumbing system needs to be overhauled.<br />
107
- Windows require painting and in some cases restoration.<br />
- Fire alarms and security doors need to be replaced.<br />
- Many of the rooms are in need of redecoration.<br />
- The stonework needs remedial action.<br />
- The gardens require a great deal of work and expenditure.<br />
- Increasing insurance and security costs are an ongoing source of concern<br />
to the present owners. (There was an arson attack on Kilruddery in 1993<br />
which partially destroyed the Chippendale bookcases in the library.)<br />
The integrity of the landscape has been compromised since the 1970s with the<br />
building of industrial estates, council housing and the construction of the Southern<br />
Cross motorway, all of which have infringed upon the original demesne. The owners<br />
are constantly aware and bring to the notice of the local authority that any further<br />
encroachment of urban development could seriously compromise the landscaping of<br />
the seventeenth-century gardens.<br />
The house can no longer be maintained by farm income. The owners claim that they<br />
are largely surviving off capital from the sale of assets. Continued selling of assets<br />
obviously will affect the financial security of the house in the long-term and also<br />
diminish its cultural heritage and historical importance.<br />
108
King House, Boyle, Co. Roscommon<br />
King House is located in the town of Boyle, County Roscommon. Originally built <strong>for</strong><br />
the Sir Henry King in 1730, it is now owned by Roscommon County Council:<br />
- King House is a very large and impressive historic house. It is unusual in<br />
the sense that it was originally a country house but is now located within<br />
the boundaries of a town. It is a Palladian mansion that at various times<br />
has been attributed to such architects as Richard Castle or Edward Lovett<br />
Pearce, although it was probably designed by William Halfpenny, an<br />
assistant of Pearce’s.<br />
- This rather austere four-storey eighteenth-century house has a very grand<br />
reception gallery. The tripartite windows and the high vaulted ceilings are<br />
of note. All four storeys are actually vaulted over, which is quite unusual.<br />
- Just over fifty years after its building, King House was sold by the King<br />
family and it became a barracks to the Connaught Rangers who were<br />
stationed there from 1788 to 1922. When it ceased to function as a house,<br />
its contents were dispersed.<br />
For most of the post-independence period, King House was allowed to fall into decay.<br />
In 1987, it was acquired by Roscommon County Council whose original intention it<br />
was to demolish the house in order to provide a car park <strong>for</strong> the town. However, the<br />
council instead began a major restoration programme in 1989:<br />
- According to literature on the house’s restoration, the main aim of the<br />
project was to retain the essential architectural and structural qualities of<br />
the house and protect all the original fabric.<br />
- The work included the complete reinstatement of the roof; the<br />
reinstatement of structural arches; the provision of new floors where<br />
necessary; and the re-plastering of the entire house both internally and<br />
externally.<br />
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- A programme of continuos maintenance needs to be implemented to<br />
ensure the conservation of the building. Work that needs to be done<br />
includes the restoration or replacement of some broken windows, the<br />
cleaning of the guttering, the mending of chimneys and some decoration.<br />
The house is now an interpretative centre and museum opened each year from the<br />
beginning of April to the end of September. The house complex contains a visitor<br />
centre, restaurant and craft shop, the Ireland West and Boyle Public Library. It<br />
attracts about 12,000 visitors per annum. To supplement tourist income, the house is<br />
opened as a conference centre and <strong>for</strong> special events during the year.<br />
The house is seen to be important to the local community not only because it attracts<br />
tourists but also because of the amenity facilities it provides <strong>for</strong> local events.<br />
The house incorporates modern interpretative exhibitions in the eighteenth-century<br />
building. A development <strong>for</strong> King House is being compiled at the moment and it is<br />
realised that period furniture and fittings are required to supplement the modern<br />
exhibitions.<br />
In reality King House is not achieving its full potential and as insurance, heating and<br />
other maintenance costs continue to escalate pressure is being put on the management<br />
of the house and also certain activities are being restricted. However, Roscommon<br />
County Council offer assurance that the property will become a viable tourism project<br />
in the future.<br />
110
Kylemore Abbey, Letterfrack, Co. Galway<br />
Kylemore Abbey is located between Letterfrack and Recess in Connemara, County<br />
Galway. Originally built in the 1860s by Mitchell Henry MP, a wealthy Liverpool<br />
merchant, it is presently owned by the Benedictine nuns:<br />
- The location of Kylemore Abbey in a remote and scenic part of<br />
Connemara, along with its neo-Gothic architectural design mark it as one<br />
of the most dramatic and romantic <strong>Irish</strong> country houses. It is probably one<br />
of the most photographed buildings in the west of Ireland if not in the<br />
whole country.<br />
- <strong>Historic</strong>ally, Kylemore is rather unique in that it was one of only a few<br />
<strong>Irish</strong> country houses built in the post-Famine period.<br />
- The house was designed by James Franklin Fuller and Ussher Roberts.<br />
Besides its dramatic setting, the house is characterised by its neo-Gothic<br />
battlemented and machicolated towers and turrets.<br />
- The Gothic church, built between 1877 and 1881 also to the design of<br />
Fuller, is a building of international importance. It has been described as a<br />
‘cathedral in miniature’ as it incorporates elements adapted from some of<br />
the great English cathedrals of the Decorated Era, 1180-1215.<br />
Since the 1920s, Kylemore has been owned by the Benedictine nuns who came to<br />
Ireland during the Great War when their abbey at Ypres was destroyed. It has since<br />
become an internationally-renowned girls’ boarding school.<br />
Architecturally, the house has suffered from some un<strong>for</strong>tunate changes down through<br />
the years. For example:<br />
- In the early twentieth century, the second owner of the castle, the duke of<br />
Manchester, trans<strong>for</strong>med the magnificent ballroom into an enormous<br />
kitchen. It has since been converted into a chapel.<br />
111
In the last number of years major restoration and conservation work has been carried<br />
out on the castle. Much of this has been funded by the opening of the house as a<br />
tourist attraction in the early 1990s. Kylemore Abbey contributes greatly to the local<br />
economy providing over 100 jobs to people in the area:<br />
- A section of the castle, the Gothic church and the six-acre Victorian walled<br />
gardens have all been restored and opened to the public. The glasshouses<br />
in the garden are still under restoration.<br />
- A number of the main reception rooms have been restored and opened to<br />
the public.<br />
- The gardens were restored under the Great Gardens of Ireland Restoration<br />
Scheme.<br />
According to the present owners much work remains to be done:<br />
- The servants’ wing needs to be re-roofed and the windows need to be<br />
replaced. The nuns’ accommodation wing is in advanced state of disrepair<br />
and in urgent need of attention.<br />
- Areas of the house are infested with dry rot which needs to be eradicated<br />
immediately. Already huge damage has been done by damp which has<br />
caused the loss of some of the once-beautiful ceilings.<br />
112
Lambay Castle<br />
Lambay Castle is situated on Lambay Island, located approximately three miles off<br />
the north County Dublin coast. The house is owned by the Lambay Estate Co. which<br />
in turn is owned by a family trust, established by the late Lord Revelstoke. The house<br />
and the estate are presently managed by Margaret Kelly (grand-daughter of Cecil<br />
Baring, who created the present castle) and her husband, Patrick, one of the trustees,<br />
who live in the castle all year round. The house is of historical importance <strong>for</strong> a<br />
number of reasons:<br />
- In the early twentieth century it was redesigned and trans<strong>for</strong>med from a<br />
small sixteenth-century house by Sir Edwin Lutyens into a castle <strong>for</strong> Cecil<br />
Baring (later 3 rd Lord Revelstoke) who had bought the island in 1904 as a<br />
home <strong>for</strong> himself and his wife. It is one of the very few Edwardian country<br />
houses built in Ireland and is generally regarded as one of the most<br />
important twentieth-century buildings in the country.<br />
- Lutyens is acknowledged as one of the most important international<br />
architects of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. His preeminence<br />
amongst his contemporaries was unquestioned. His most notable<br />
work was arguably the Viceroy’s Palace at New Delhi. In Ireland he was<br />
also associated with the design of the internationally renowned Heywood<br />
gardens in Laois and the World War I Memorial Garden at Islandbridge.<br />
- Lutyens also designed the landscape surrounding the house and an<br />
extensive complex of other buildings (including another large house, six<br />
cottages, farm buildings and a chapel.) Thus his association with the<br />
design of the house and other associated buildings as well as the landscape<br />
marks it as being rather unique and certainly of great international<br />
importance. Also of great significance is the fact that Lambay is one of<br />
only five Lutyens’s houses still inhabited by the original family.<br />
- The original contents of the house are largely intact and the interior design<br />
is just as it was when it was originally built. It also houses a fine collection<br />
of paintings and portraits and an important photographic archive. Lambay,<br />
there<strong>for</strong>e, provides a very rare insight into the design and workings of an<br />
Edwardian house.<br />
- Finally, the natural history of the island itself is of great importance. It<br />
should be noted that Lambay is, in fact, the only inhabited island on the<br />
east coast and is also a listed archaeological site.<br />
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Like the vast majority of houses in the survey, Lambay has problems, which are<br />
universal to them all, but it also has particular problems specific to that house:<br />
- As a discretionary trust, the Revelstoke trust is subject to a 1 per cent<br />
annual levy on the gross value of assets. This imposes a burden <strong>for</strong> the<br />
continued running of the castle and island which cannot be sustained<br />
indefinitely. In 2002, the family had to pay in excess of €100,000.<br />
- The trust has insufficient funds at its disposal to carry out the necessary<br />
work immediately. The actual day-to-day maintenance of the house is<br />
enough to exhaust the annual budget. Suffice to say, the trust does not<br />
have at its disposal the resources of the extremely wealthy merchant<br />
banker who first built it.<br />
- Although progress has been made thanks to grants from the <strong>Heritage</strong><br />
Council and Fingal County Council, extensive restoration work remains to<br />
be done. According to a recent condition survey, the house, contents and<br />
landscape are all in a very poor state of repairs and in urgent requirement<br />
of extensive conservation at significant expenditure.<br />
- The house is unique in the sense that because it is located on an island,<br />
public access is severely limited by constraints of the tides and weather.<br />
There<strong>for</strong>e, Lambay cannot realistically be expected to open generally to<br />
the public. This means, of course, that it is not then in the position to claim<br />
the various tax exemptions available to other houses that avail of section<br />
482.<br />
- Considerable extra expenditure is incurred by the fact that the house is<br />
located on an island. The family has to operate a private ferry service to<br />
and from the island and the family is also responsible <strong>for</strong> the maintenance<br />
of the listed harbour on the island as well as the stone pier on the mainland<br />
where the ferry is moored.<br />
Because of the unique importance of Lambay in terms of architectural design,<br />
landscape, the natural history of the island, the fact that it is a listed archaeological<br />
site, the existence of its contents and archive, its preservation into the future is<br />
obviously of great cultural importance. In order to accomplish this, a number of issues<br />
have to be addressed:<br />
- Given the unique circumstances associated with its location, which<br />
prevents it from opening to the public on a regular basis, some <strong>for</strong>m of tax<br />
exemptions should be considered, given that the family are prepared to<br />
extend the limited public access which they currently give to interest<br />
groups such as architects and bird watchers. (The house is actually quite<br />
small, despite having the grandiloquent title of a castle, so that realistically<br />
it could not cater <strong>for</strong> groups of more than twelve at any given time.)<br />
- The 1 per cent levy is the most significant drain on resources. It would be<br />
of great benefit to be able to write conservation and maintenance costs off<br />
against the levy.<br />
- Relief on capital gains tax would also be of benefit provided that the sale<br />
of shares in the trust are used <strong>for</strong> reinvestment in the house and surrounds.<br />
114
Ledwithstown, Ballymahon, Co. Long<strong>for</strong>d<br />
Ledwithstown is located near Ballymahon in County Long<strong>for</strong>d. Originally the home<br />
of the Ledwith family, it is now owned by Laurence Feeney:<br />
- Ledwithstown is a very important small eighteenth-century house of two<br />
storeys over a basement that was possibly designed by Richard Castle. Its<br />
international importance was recognised by Steven Parissien in his book<br />
Palladian Style (London, 1994), as it was the only <strong>Irish</strong> house to be<br />
included in his study.<br />
- The original owners had obviously notions of grandeur beyond their social<br />
status, <strong>for</strong> despite the smallness of the house, it has all the traits of a much<br />
larger house. It is very thoroughly designed with well-integrated internal<br />
decoration.<br />
- The house has not been added to or architecturally altered since it was first<br />
constructed.<br />
- One of the main interior features of the house is the black Kilkenny marble<br />
chimneypiece in the entrance hall.<br />
- Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, the house has long since been stripped of its original<br />
contents. Only a large glazed bookcase, specially designed <strong>for</strong> the library,<br />
remains.<br />
The house was vacant or let to non-paying tenants from the 1920s to 1984, with the<br />
result that it fell into a very bad state of disrepair.<br />
- The lead valleys on the roof were leaking badly.<br />
- Water penetration in the top storey has caused a great deal of damp. There<br />
is no central heating in the house, which means that large areas of it are<br />
inadequately heated.<br />
- The outer walls were soaked with damp with the result that floor joists<br />
entering outside walls were completely rotted.<br />
115
- There is also a dry rot problem in the wood panelling.<br />
- A section of cornice from a chimneystack had fallen through the roof,<br />
shattering the lead valley outlet from the central valley on its way. This<br />
later caused serious water saturation damage.<br />
The present owners began restoration work in the mid-1980s with the help of grants<br />
and expert advice from bodies such as the <strong>Irish</strong> Georgian Society and the <strong>Heritage</strong><br />
Council:<br />
- The roof was restored.<br />
- New floors were installed.<br />
- The drawing-room ceiling was restored.<br />
- Currently, work is ongoing on the plasterwork.<br />
A great deal of work is still required. This includes restoring doors and architraves;<br />
fitting new door locks; and installing new fire grates (which could cost up to €2,500<br />
each.)<br />
The owners emphasise that they have dedicated their lives to the restoration of this<br />
house at enormous expense but that they do not have the finances necessary to<br />
complete restoration as quickly as they would like. It would cost, <strong>for</strong> example, almost<br />
€10,000 to paint the hall alone and at least €300,000 to complete the whole<br />
restoration.<br />
The owners do not benefit from tax exemptions under section 482 because the house<br />
is not opened to the public (except on request by interested groups.) It is not practical<br />
<strong>for</strong> the owners to do so; it is simply too small.<br />
116
Lismore Castle, Co. Water<strong>for</strong>d.<br />
Lismore Castle is situated on the outskirts of the town of Lismore in County<br />
Water<strong>for</strong>d. It is owned by Lismore Estates (Jersey) Ltd with an address at St. Helier,<br />
Jersey. The principal beneficiary of the company is the marquess of Hartington (son<br />
of the duke of Devonshire.)<br />
The owners did not grant an interview with a representative. The in<strong>for</strong>mation<br />
contained in this report was provided by Mr. Michael Penruddock, estate manager, via<br />
e-mail:<br />
- Lismore is a predominantly early seventeenth and nineteenth-century<br />
castle, incorporating some of the towers of a much earlier medieval castle<br />
of the bishops of Lismore.<br />
- In the late sixteenth, early seventeenth centuries the castle and lands were<br />
owned by Sir Walter Raleigh, Elizabethan adventurer, be<strong>for</strong>e being sold to<br />
Richard Boyle, later earl of Cork.<br />
- In the seventeenth century, it was home to Robert Boyle, regarded as one<br />
of the founders of modern chemistry.<br />
- In the eighteenth century, it passed through marriage to the Cavendish<br />
family when the heiress to Lismore married the duke of Devonshire. An<br />
ambitious phase of rebuilding was carried out in the mid-nineteenth<br />
century to the design of Sir Joseph Paxton, the architect of the Crystal<br />
Palace.<br />
- Around the same time A.W.N.Pugin was commissioned to design the<br />
banqueting hall.<br />
- It once housed the twelfth-century Lismore crozier and the Book of<br />
Lismore.<br />
117
- The castle’s gardens are believed to be amongst the oldest in Ireland.<br />
Originally laid out by Richard Boyle, the so-called Great Earl of Cork,<br />
they retain much of their original Jacobean <strong>for</strong>m and are presently host to<br />
an important collection of contemporary sculpture commissioned by<br />
Lismore’s owner, Lord Hartington.<br />
The castle was re-roofed about twenty-five years ago. The west wing and the Carlisle<br />
tower at the southern end are not inhabited and are in a dilapidated state of repair<br />
internally, although the walls and roof are said to be sound. The outoffices including<br />
those in the old stable yard, the old sawmills yard and the old laundry are all in a poor<br />
state of repair and require re-roofing. A recent estimate <strong>for</strong> the cost of re-roofing the<br />
stable yard outoffices and a modest renovation of the west wing was put at €800,000.<br />
The castle can be rented out <strong>for</strong> a minimum charge of €3,500 per night <strong>for</strong> up to<br />
twelve guests. For additional guests, up to a maximum of twenty-three, there is a<br />
further charge of €250 per person per night.<br />
118
Lissadell House, Co. Sligo<br />
Lissadell House is located near Drumcliffe, Co. Sligo, about ten miles north of Sligo<br />
town. It is owned by Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth:<br />
- Lissadell is a large Grecian-Revival house built in the early 1830s <strong>for</strong> Sir<br />
Robert Gore-Booth to the design of Francis Goodwin of London. The<br />
house has not been significantly altered since then.<br />
- The large entrance hall – a lofty two-storey room with square Doric<br />
columns below and Ionic columns above – has a Kilkenny marble floor<br />
and a Kilkenny marble double staircase, noted <strong>for</strong> its iron balusters<br />
decorated with eagles.<br />
- The house also contains a sixty-five feet long apse-ended gallery, which<br />
contains its original Gothic chamber organ pumped by bellows in the<br />
basement.<br />
- Those who write or comment about Lissadell tend to emphasise its<br />
association with William Butler Yeats (who spent a great deal of his time<br />
there), Constance Gore-Booth (later Markievicz), extreme nationalist and<br />
the first female member of Dáil Eireann, and her sister, Eva, an<br />
accomplished poet. This association, while important, should not<br />
overshadow Lissadell’s greater importance as an architectural site of great<br />
cultural heritage importance.<br />
- The house contains a large collection of historically important contents. In<br />
2002, there was a sale of some of what the owners considered to be the<br />
less important contents from Lissadell in order to continue restoration<br />
work.<br />
119
Sir Josslyn claims that when he took over Lissadell, it was difficult to decide where to<br />
actually begin with regard to restoration. It was not merely a question of money; it<br />
was also a question of time:<br />
- Wet rot had been a significant problem and had caused some structural<br />
damage. There are still damp problems in the basement where the<br />
limestone walls have acted like a sponge.<br />
- Over a period of ten years or so, the roof was repaired so that it is now<br />
watertight.<br />
- All the windows have been restored.<br />
It was quite evident during the interview with the Gore-Booths that they were not<br />
entirely happy about the sacrifices they have had to make – financial and personal – in<br />
order to keep Lissadell. They pointed to a number of factors:<br />
- The house does not pay <strong>for</strong> itself. The 400-acre farm attached to the house<br />
is much too small to maintain a house of this size. Money that has been<br />
made in the past from <strong>for</strong>estry has had to be ploughed straight back into<br />
the management of the woods. And the house now attracts less than 10,000<br />
visitors in any given year.<br />
- Insurance is a major source of concern. Public liability is proving a<br />
problem largely because members of the public see it as their right to be<br />
able to walk the grounds of the house at all times of the year. In the recent<br />
past, there have been a number of lawsuits from people who claim to have<br />
injured themselves on the grounds.<br />
- The present owners say that they cannot justify spending on restoration <strong>for</strong><br />
the rest of their lives or sacrificing so much of their time and energy. They<br />
say that the house is simply too big and inconvenient and they would<br />
advise their children not to burden themselves with the problems<br />
associated with running an historic house.<br />
Since this interview took place the Gore-Booths have taken the decision to sell<br />
Lissadell. They have made it public that they think the state should purchase it. This<br />
has given rise to much debate as to whether or not the state should intervene.<br />
Obviously, if Lissadell is sold to a private purchaser, there is the possibility that the<br />
new owner might choose to close it and its grounds completely to the public. This<br />
might very well have wider ramifications <strong>for</strong> the local community in terms of trade<br />
and tourism. If the state is to intervene, it cannot simply purchase the house on its<br />
own; it must also purchase its contents <strong>for</strong> a house such as Lissadell without its<br />
contents loses much of its cultural heritage value.<br />
As this study goes to press, news has been received that Lissadell has been sold to a<br />
private buyer.<br />
120
Luggala, Roundwood, Co. Wicklow<br />
Luggala is located near Roundwood, Co. Wicklow. It is presently owned by Hon.<br />
Garech Browne. A preliminary meeting was held with Mr. Browne but no follow-up<br />
meeting proved possible.<br />
121
122
Malahide Castle, Malahide, Co. Dublin<br />
Ardgillan and Newbridge House have been included in this summary as, together with<br />
Malahide Castle, the three houses are all now owned by Fingal County Council.<br />
The three houses were purchased with their demesnes, by Dublin County Council:<br />
Malahide in 1975, Ardgillan in 1982, and Newbridge in1985. Their acquisition was<br />
largely influenced by the need to provide a necklace of major parks in the greater<br />
Dublin area. Today, Malahide, <strong>for</strong> example, attracts around 75,000 paying guests per<br />
annum, while the park attracts over one million visitors.<br />
Ardgillan Castle is located near Balbriggan. It is an eighteenth-century house,<br />
originally belonging to the Taylour family who were also associated with Head<strong>for</strong>t in<br />
County Meath. The central section of the house was built in 1738 and the wings were<br />
added in the late eighteenth century. Opened to the public since 1992, the furniture on<br />
show was originally provided on loan, but is now owned by the County Council<br />
Malahide Castle, is located in Malahide. It has been described as ‘the most<br />
distinguished of all <strong>Irish</strong> castles’. Until it was sold in the mid 1970s, its owners, the<br />
Talbots de Malahide, had the distinction of being the longest resident original family<br />
in an <strong>Irish</strong> country house, having lived there <strong>for</strong> almost 800 years. It has a number of<br />
interesting historical and cultural heritage features:<br />
- Malahide contains the only surviving medieval great hall in Ireland to have<br />
retained its original <strong>for</strong>m.<br />
- The rococo plasterwork is attributed to Robert West.<br />
- Some of its original contents were bought back by Bord Failte. Individuals<br />
have loaned other contents, while a number of portraits purchased by the<br />
National Gallery of Ireland are also on loan.<br />
123
- It houses the important MacDonnell collection of eighteenth-century <strong>Irish</strong><br />
furniture.<br />
- There are twenty-two acres of ornamental gardens attached to the castle<br />
containing over 5,000 different species of plants principally from the<br />
southern hemisphere.<br />
The sale of Malahide and the subsequent dispersal of one of the most important<br />
collections of contents in Ireland was one of the most deplorable consequences of the<br />
tax legislation of the pre-1980s era.<br />
Newbridge House is located near Donabate. It was built in the mid-eighteenth century<br />
<strong>for</strong> Charles Cobbe, later archbishop of Dublin. Traditionally it was believed to have<br />
been designed by Richard Castle, but recent evidence now suggests that the design<br />
may have been by James Gibbs.<br />
As a result of an agreement reached with the council, the Cobbe family agreed to<br />
leave most of the original contents in the house in return <strong>for</strong> continued right of<br />
residence in part of the house. The family also retains the right to use the principal<br />
room when the house is not opened to the public.<br />
This arrangement has meant that the house continues to offer a unique insight to its<br />
historical and cultural development:<br />
- The most splendid room in the house is the red drawing room with its<br />
rococo plaster ceiling attributed to Richard Williams.<br />
- The grounds at Newbridge provide an excellent example of eighteenthcentury<br />
landscape. It is probable that the landscape was designed by<br />
Charles Frizzell, one of the famous eighteenth-century Wex<strong>for</strong>d firm of<br />
land surveyors.<br />
While the work of Dublin (now Fingal County Council in preserving and restoring<br />
these houses is highly commendable, there are a number of concerns:<br />
- Parts of the original landscape at Malahide have been compromised<br />
(though not irreversibly) to some extent by the creation of football pitches,<br />
tennis courts, a par 3 golf course and mini golf courses, as well as an<br />
extensive children’s playground. Similarly, at Newbridge, a children’s<br />
park and playground was opened in 1999.<br />
- Standards of maintenance continue to be maintained despite shrinking<br />
budgets.<br />
- Round-the –clock security costs is a ongoing problem though probably no<br />
more so than similar private properties.<br />
- Perhaps the greatest worry is that local authority budgets may not stretch<br />
in the future to cover the high maintenance costs of running these houses.<br />
124
Mount Ievers, Co. Clare.<br />
Mount Ievers is located on the outskirts of Sixmilebridge in Co. Clare. It has been<br />
owned by the Ievers family since it was built in the eighteenth century:<br />
- Mount Ievers is one of the very few country houses in County Clare to<br />
have remained in the hands of the original owners.<br />
- It is an unusual tall eighteenth-century house of three storeys over a<br />
basement, its height further accentuated by a steeply pitched roof and very<br />
tall chimneystacks. It has been described as ‘the most perfect and also<br />
probably the earliest of the tall <strong>Irish</strong> houses’.<br />
- The house was designed by John Rothery with an input from his son,<br />
Isaac.<br />
- The house retains much of its original character. Architecturally, it has not<br />
been altered since the time of its building. Its character is enhanced by the<br />
collection of furniture and heirlooms collected by successive generations<br />
of the family.<br />
- The long gallery on the top floor is a feature rather unique to <strong>Irish</strong> houses<br />
of eighteenth-century origin.<br />
125
Structurally, the house is sound. The roof was restored in the mid-1960s and more<br />
recently funding was received from the <strong>Heritage</strong> Council <strong>for</strong> necessary work on the<br />
guttering. Over the years a great deal of other restoration work has been funded by the<br />
<strong>Irish</strong> Georgian Society.<br />
The house is maintained from a dairy farm income, based on a very small milk quota<br />
of 16,000 gallons. The level of income this quota generates makes it extremely<br />
difficult to maintain a house and grounds of this size and even more difficult to carry<br />
out restoration projects.<br />
126
Newbridge House, Donabate, Co. Dublin<br />
Malahide Castle and Ardgillan have been included in this summary as, together with<br />
Newbridge House, the three houses are all now owned by Fingal County Council.<br />
The three houses were purchased with their demesnes, by Dublin County Council:<br />
Malahide in 1975, Ardgillan in 1982, and Newbridge in1985. Their acquisition was<br />
largely influenced by the need to provide a necklace of major parks in the greater<br />
Dublin area. Today, Malahide, <strong>for</strong> example, attracts around 75,000 paying guests per<br />
annum, while the park attracts over one million visitors.<br />
Ardgillan Castle is located near Balbriggan. It is an eighteenth-century house,<br />
originally belonging to the Taylour family who were also associated with Head<strong>for</strong>t in<br />
County Meath. The central section of the house was built in 1738 and the wings were<br />
added in the late eighteenth century. Opened to the public since 1992, the furniture on<br />
show was originally provided on loan, but is now owned by the County Council<br />
Malahide Castle, is located in Malahide. It has been described as ‘the most<br />
distinguished of all <strong>Irish</strong> castles’. Until it was sold in the mid 1970s, its owners, the<br />
Talbots de Malahide, had the distinction of being the longest resident original family<br />
in an <strong>Irish</strong> country house, having lived there <strong>for</strong> almost 800 years. It has a number of<br />
interesting historical and cultural heritage features:<br />
- Malahide contains the only surviving medieval great hall in Ireland to have<br />
retained its original <strong>for</strong>m.<br />
- The rococo plasterwork is attributed to Robert West.<br />
127
- Some of its original contents were bought back by Bord Failte. Individuals<br />
have loaned other contents, while a number of portraits purchased by the<br />
National Gallery of Ireland are also on loan.<br />
- It houses the important MacDonnell collection of eighteenth-century <strong>Irish</strong><br />
furniture.<br />
- There are twenty-two acres of ornamental gardens attached to the castle<br />
containing over 5,000 different species of plants principally from the<br />
southern hemisphere.<br />
The sale of Malahide and the subsequent dispersal of one of the most important<br />
collections of contents in Ireland was one of the most deplorable consequences of the<br />
tax legislation of the pre-1980s era.<br />
Newbridge House is located near Donabate. It was built in the mid-eighteenth century<br />
<strong>for</strong> Charles Cobbe, later archbishop of Dublin. Traditionally it was believed to have<br />
been designed by Richard Castle, but recent evidence now suggests that the design<br />
may have been by James Gibbs.<br />
As a result of an agreement reached with the council, the Cobbe family agreed to<br />
leave most of the original contents in the house in return <strong>for</strong> continued right of<br />
residence in part of the house. The family also retains the right to use the principal<br />
room when the house is not opened to the public.<br />
This arrangement has meant that the house continues to offer a unique insight to its<br />
historical and cultural development:<br />
- The most splendid room in the house is the red drawing room with its<br />
rococo plaster ceiling attributed to Richard Williams.<br />
- The grounds at Newbridge provide an excellent example of eighteenthcentury<br />
landscape. It is probable that the landscape was designed by<br />
Charles Frizzell, one of the famous eighteenth-century Wex<strong>for</strong>d firm of<br />
land surveyors.<br />
While the work of Dublin (now Fingal County Council in preserving and restoring<br />
these houses is highly commendable, there are a number of concerns:<br />
- Parts of the original landscape at Malahide have been compromised<br />
(though not irreversibly) to some extent by the creation of football pitches,<br />
tennis courts, a par 3 golf course and mini golf courses, as well as an<br />
extensive children’s playground. Similarly, at Newbridge, a children’s<br />
park and playground was opened in 1999.<br />
- Standards of maintenance continue to be maintained despite shrinking<br />
budgets.<br />
- Round-the –clock security costs is a ongoing problem though probably no<br />
more so than similar private properties.<br />
- Perhaps the greatest worry is that local authority budgets may not stretch<br />
in the future to cover the high maintenance costs of running these houses.<br />
128
Rathfarnham Castle, Co. Dublin<br />
Rathfarnham Castle is located in the village of Rathfarnham, Co. Dublin. Originally<br />
built by Robert Loftus, Archbishop of Dublin and later Lord Chancellor of Ireland, it<br />
is now owned by the state:<br />
- Rathfarnham Castle dates from the late sixteenth century and is considered<br />
to be one of the earliest examples of a <strong>for</strong>tified house in Ireland. As such it<br />
marks an important stage in the transition from military castle to country<br />
house in Ireland.<br />
- In 1913 the castle and part of the estate were purchased by the Society of<br />
Jesus (Jesuits). They subsequently used the castle as a seminary. In the<br />
1920s, they added two large wings.<br />
- In the 1980s, the Jesuits decided to sell the castle. In 1986, it was declared<br />
a national monument and in 1987 it was purchased by the state through the<br />
Office of Public Works. At the same time, Dublin County Council<br />
purchased the grounds. The castle is now opened to the public.<br />
Since 1988, the OPW has carried out a good deal of work on the castle including reroofing<br />
it; removing the 1920s wings; renovating the eighteenth-century kitchen wing<br />
and re-rendering the exterior of the castle. However much work remains to be done:<br />
- The top floor and the basement areas have not been touched. They are in<br />
poor decorative order.<br />
- None of the principal reception rooms have been restored. All are in need<br />
of cosmetic attention, which may be very costly. For example, it has been<br />
estimated that it will cost in the region of €100,000 to strip the paint off the<br />
ballroom ceiling alone.<br />
129
- None of the principal rooms are decorated or furnished, which is a great<br />
source of disappointment to visitors and explains the relatively low<br />
number of annual visitors<br />
- The integrity of the original gardens has been much affected by the<br />
building of the Rathfarnham by-pass through the walled gardens.<br />
- Of most disappointment is the fact that the restoration work on the castle<br />
that has been ongoing since the late 1980s has not yet been finished. Due<br />
to financial constraints, the necessary funding has not been made available<br />
to complete the restoration project.<br />
There are other lesser problems. For example, the castle has had its fair share of<br />
vandalism. Located in a public park, security is a problem at night and graffiti on<br />
walls is rather unpleasant.<br />
130
Russborough, Co. Wicklow<br />
Russborough is located near Blessington in County Wicklow. It was built in the early<br />
1740s <strong>for</strong> Joseph Leeson, the first earl of Milltown. It is now owned by the Alfred<br />
Beit Foundation, a company limited by guarantee:<br />
- Russborough was designed by Richard Castle who died shortly be<strong>for</strong>e the<br />
house was completed. The interior decoration was completed by Francis<br />
Bindon.<br />
- Russborough has been described as ‘arguably the most beautiful house in<br />
Ireland.’ It has been little changed from its original structure.<br />
- It is built of local silver-grey granite and its entrance front, extending to<br />
700 feet, is believed to be the longest in Ireland.<br />
- The Francini brothers were responsible <strong>for</strong> much of the impressive<br />
plasterwork, notably in the saloon, which is regarded as one of the finest<br />
rooms in any country house in Ireland. Another striking feature of this<br />
room is the sprung mahogany floor.<br />
- It has been said of Russborough that ‘<strong>Irish</strong> country houses are generally<br />
distinguished by their architecture rather than their contents, but<br />
Russborough is a striking exception to this rule.’ It provides the setting <strong>for</strong><br />
a remarkable collection of paintings, furniture and objets d’art collected by<br />
Sir Alfred Beit, his father and uncle, most particularly <strong>for</strong> an important<br />
part of the famous Beit collection of paintings.<br />
Russborough is managed by the Alfred Beit Foundation. The house is faced with a<br />
number of problems:<br />
- An endowment fund was established by Sir Alfred Beit <strong>for</strong> the Foundation.<br />
This fund has gradually been diminished as a result of capital expenditure<br />
on restoration and conservation work, as well as annual maintenance.<br />
- The income accruing from opening the house to the public has been<br />
declining in recent years as the number of visitors has declined.<br />
Russborough does not attract the number of repeat visitors that are<br />
attracted to houses such as Powerscourt or Avondale largely because of<br />
their extensive gardens.<br />
- With the support of the <strong>Heritage</strong> Council, a conservation plan <strong>for</strong><br />
Russborough was prepared in 2001.<br />
131
- The trustees are aware that a business plan must be put into operation that<br />
will attract more visitors to the house. They are not in a position to<br />
disclose the details of this plan, but it would obviously involve the<br />
installation of various attractions to entice more visitors to the house. Any<br />
such business plan, however, would require financial support. The<br />
implementation of a business plan must be delayed until the necessary<br />
additional security measures have been completed.<br />
132
Shelton Abbey, Arklow, Co. Wicklow<br />
Shelton Abbey is located near Arklow in County Wicklow. Originally the home of the<br />
Howard family, it is now an open prison owned by the state and administered by the<br />
Department of Justice:<br />
- Shelton was built in 1770 by the Rt. Hon. Ralph Howard, later 1 st Viscount<br />
Wicklow. Around 1819 it was trans<strong>for</strong>med into a Gothic Revival abbey to<br />
the design of Richard Morrison.<br />
- The original fabric of the house has been greatly compromised by the fact<br />
that since the late 1940s it has operated as a hotel, a school and now a<br />
prison. Rooms have been divided; toilet and shower facilities have been<br />
installed; modern kitchen facilities have been added.<br />
- Likewise, the demesne has been spoiled by industrial development and the<br />
stables and other outoffices have long since been demolished.<br />
- No original contents have survived, with the exception of some fireplaces.<br />
In the last year or so, the government has expended around €3 million on renovations<br />
including the insulation of the roof, the installation of a new central heating system,<br />
the insulation of walls, the restoration and replacing of windows, the replacement of<br />
inside doors and the eradication of dry rot.<br />
Obviously, this house’s present role prevents it being opened to the public. It will<br />
continue as an open prison, at least <strong>for</strong> the <strong>for</strong>eseeable future.<br />
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Slane Castle, Slane, County Meath.<br />
Slane Castle is located on the outskirts of Slane village in County Meath. It is<br />
presently run by Lord Henry Mount Charles whose family has been associated with<br />
the area since 1701:<br />
- Slane is a very large and very early Gothic Revival castle associated with<br />
some of the most important architects of their time. It was begun in the<br />
1780s to the design of James Wyatt and completed to the design of Francis<br />
Johnson. Johnson was responsible <strong>for</strong> the design of the Gothic entrance<br />
gates. There is evidence to suggest that James Gandon, Thomas Hopper,<br />
‘Capability’ Brown and others may also have been consulted at various<br />
times.<br />
- It has been described by A.J. Rowan as ‘a building of exceptional quality,<br />
and a particularly fine example of what might be called the ‘Classical’ type<br />
of castle.’<br />
- The magnificent entrance hall was designed by Wyatt and Jonhson.<br />
- The original library at Slane was described as the first Gothic interior in a<br />
neo-Gothic house or castle in Ireland.<br />
- The neo-Gothic ballroom was designed by Thomas Hopper, a favoured<br />
architect of King George IV.<br />
- The road from Dublin to Slane was reputedly built <strong>for</strong> the visit of George<br />
IV to Slane in the early 1820s.<br />
- Slane’s association with rock concerts since the 1980s has arguably given<br />
it a modern cultural importance far removed from its historical role as the<br />
centre of a landed estate.<br />
In 1991, extensive damage was caused to the castle by a fire, which completely gutted<br />
the east wing. The present owner points out that at the time no state funding was made<br />
available to aid its restoration.<br />
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Lord Mount Charles also points out that the restoration project at Slane alerted him to<br />
many hidden dangers that he had not been aware of. For example, there was rampant<br />
dry rot in the castle. The main beams supporting the ballroom ceiling were completely<br />
rotten where they went into the walls, but there was no visible evidence of the decay<br />
on the outside. Secondly, major renovations that encounter structural engineering<br />
problems are very expensive.<br />
The restoration, carried out over a ten-year period, has been a major success.<br />
Promotional literature <strong>for</strong> the castle now describes it, with some justification, as ‘a<br />
combination of old charm and modern day com<strong>for</strong>t’. It is opened to the public <strong>for</strong><br />
tours and caters <strong>for</strong> conferences, banquets and so on.<br />
Photograph courtesy Newsfile<br />
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Stradbally Hall, Stradbally, Co. Laois<br />
Stradbally Hall is located on the outskirts of the town of Stradbally, Co. Laois. It is<br />
presently owned by Thomas Cosby whose family has been associated with Stradbally<br />
since the late 17 th century.<br />
- The present house, built in the early 1770s, replaced the original house of<br />
the late-seventeenth century. Almost a century later, in the late 1860s, Sir<br />
Charles Lanyon was employed to enlarge and remodel the house which he<br />
did in his characteristic Italianate style.<br />
- Its principal architectural feature is its rather unique gallery with its pink<br />
marble Corinthian columns and elaborate barrel-vaulted ceiling.<br />
- The estate archive which is in situ has recently been catalogued.<br />
Stradbally House is located on a 550-acre estate, of which 300 is woodland. Of all the<br />
other houses in the survey owned by the original families, it is probably the one in the<br />
most advanced state of disrepair:<br />
- The roof requires immediate attention. Gutters and chimney surrounds<br />
need to be sealed.<br />
- All of the rooms need urgent cosmetic attention particularly those on the<br />
bedroom floor.<br />
- Most of the contents of the house, including a valuable collection of<br />
paintings, were sold in the 1980s, while some valuable contents were also<br />
stolen when the house was burgled three times in four years.<br />
Stradbally is not opened to the public (except <strong>for</strong> pre-booked tours and society<br />
outings.) There<strong>for</strong>e, it does not benefit from tax exemptions. One has to say that even<br />
if it was opened, its advanced state of decay and the fact that is has been denuded of<br />
most of its contents and virtually all of its paintings means that it probably would not<br />
be attractive to the public.<br />
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The present owner fears <strong>for</strong> the future of the house and the ability of the family to<br />
retain it without some <strong>for</strong>m of government assistance. The farm simply is not large<br />
enough and profitable enough to maintain a house of its size. Other business ventures<br />
are being contemplated such as the conversion of servants’ quarters to apartments, but<br />
these will require a substantial injection of capital.<br />
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Strokestown Park, Strokestown, Co. Roscommon.<br />
Strokestown Park is located on the outskirts of Strokestown in Co. Roscommon.<br />
Originally the home of the Mahon family, it is now owned by Westward Holdings<br />
Ltd:<br />
- Strokestown is a seventeenth-century Palladian mansion, regarded as one<br />
of the finest of its type built in Ireland. Major remodelling of the original<br />
house was carried out in the 1730s to the design of Richard Castle. It is<br />
now the only surviving house of its type in Roscommon.<br />
- Thomas Mahon, 2 nd Lord Hartland, was largely responsible <strong>for</strong> the<br />
planning and development of Strokestown; its characteristic wide streets<br />
were said to reflect his attempts to have a street wider than the Ringstrasse<br />
in Vienna.<br />
- The house remained in the Mahon family (later Pakenham Mahon) until<br />
1979 when it was sold to its present owners. With financial assistance of<br />
James Callary and under the guidance of Luke Dodd, the restoration of<br />
Strokestown was amongst the largest privately funded restoration projects<br />
in Ireland.<br />
- The library, with its coved ceiling, has original early nineteenth-century<br />
wallpaper and Chippendale bookcases.<br />
- The original kitchen retains much of its historic integrity. Its balustraded<br />
gallery is a major feature of Castle’s houses.<br />
The house was opened to the public in 1987. The outoffices now house the National<br />
Famine Museum that was opened in 1994. The restoration of the walled pleasure<br />
gardens was completed in 1997 and that of the Georgian fruit and vegetable garden in<br />
2000. The house and Famine museum projects have received substantial funding from<br />
the EC, the <strong>Irish</strong> Georgian Society, Bord Failte, the <strong>Heritage</strong> Council and the Great<br />
Gardens Restoration Scheme.<br />
At its peak the house was attracting up to 70,000 visitors per annum. That number has<br />
now declined to around 60,000 per annum.<br />
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The house is a major source of local employment. There are twelve full-time and<br />
thirteen part-time workers employed. The number of visitors attracted to the area has<br />
obvious trade benefits <strong>for</strong> the town.<br />
Despite the extensive restoration programme there still remains much to be done:<br />
- There is evidence of subsidence at the front of the house. The Ionic portico<br />
built around 1830 is showing signs of shifting.<br />
- There is a dry rot problem in areas of the house, particularly the butler’s<br />
pantry, the dark room and the gentleman’s study.<br />
- The top floor and the basement as well as the kitchen yard and the<br />
farmyard are in a serious state of dilapidation.<br />
- All the windows need to be restored and some may have to be replaced.<br />
The house and its surroundings must cover its own running costs. If there is a<br />
continued downturn in the tourist market, this may not always be the case.<br />
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Temple House, Ballymote, County Sligo<br />
Temple House is located near Ballymote, County Sligo. It is owned by Alexander<br />
Perceval whose family have been associated with the house since it was built in 1760:<br />
- This is a very large (it has more than ninety rooms) two-storey Georgian<br />
mansion. It overlooks Temple House Lake and is surrounded by 1,260<br />
acres of farm and woodland.<br />
- It is one of only four major houses surviving in County Sligo.<br />
- In 1864, the house was redesigned by a London-based firm of architects<br />
whose sister company, Johnson and Jeannes, made the furniture <strong>for</strong> the<br />
rooms. Much of the original contents remain intact.<br />
- The estate has recently been designated a European lichen conservation<br />
area. The estate wet-woodlands and fenlands surrounding the lake have<br />
been designated a Special Area of Conservation.<br />
The house is now run as a guesthouse offering specialist accommodation. It is closed<br />
in February and March to allow <strong>for</strong> necessary maintenance and restoration work. This<br />
is the only viable alternative available to the family as the farm is not large enough to<br />
support such a large house on its own:<br />
- The house is, in fact, so large that the family cannot af<strong>for</strong>d to use it all; at<br />
the moment they work out of only 30 per cent of it. Sixteen bedrooms, <strong>for</strong><br />
example, are not in use. Obviously, this means that the remainder of the<br />
house is in danger of decay.<br />
- A serious dry rot problem in two wings was eradicated some years ago.<br />
- The ongoing cost of renovations is a continuous burden. In 1998, the<br />
family had intended to spend £8,000 on painting various rooms, but a<br />
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hurricane that year meant that they had to spend £40,000 instead on<br />
repairing damages to the house and coachyard.<br />
- The present owners have restored one room a year since they took over in<br />
1976. At this rate it will take almost a century to complete the work and, of<br />
course, long be<strong>for</strong>e then, many of the restored rooms will be back to<br />
square one. Thus, the problem becomes as much one of time as of money.<br />
- Work has now been carried out on around 30 per cent of the rooms but the<br />
owners state that completing the work is at present unaf<strong>for</strong>dable and they<br />
cannot af<strong>for</strong>d to match euro <strong>for</strong> euro grants that may be available.<br />
- Insurance costs continue to be a major problem.<br />
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Townley Hall, Drogheda, Co. Louth<br />
Townley Hall is located near Drogheda in County Louth. Originally the home of the<br />
Balfour family it is now owned by the School of Philosophy and Economic Science:<br />
- Townley Hall was completed c.1799 to the design of Francis Johnston. It<br />
is acknowledged as his Classical masterpiece.<br />
- The central rotunda, lit by a glazed dome, with its impressive cantilevered<br />
staircase is the most impressive feature of this house.<br />
In the 1950s, Townley was sold to Trinity College Dublin and used by the Agriculture<br />
Science Department. Subsequently, changes were made that affected the original<br />
fabric of the house:<br />
- The four chimneystacks were removed below the slates. The house is now<br />
centrally heated.<br />
- The dining hall was converted into a laboratory (although it has<br />
subsequently been restored by the present owners.)<br />
- Other rooms were converted into offices, study areas and so on.<br />
- Original floorboards were cut up to facilitate electrical wiring of the house.<br />
Like most houses that were sold in the twentieth century, and which subsequently<br />
changed their roles, Townley Hall has been denuded of its original contents.<br />
Since the 1970s, the house has been owned by the School of Philosophy and<br />
Economic Science. It is a registered educational charity. As in the past, the School<br />
continues to maintain the house through the voluntary work of its members.<br />
Major restorative work is ongoing at Townley Hall. For example, all of the sash<br />
windows on the ground floor have been restored; the house is presently being rewired;<br />
restoration work is being carried out on the central rotunda. These repairs have been<br />
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financed by state grants and voluntary contributions. After this phase, much more will<br />
still require to be done:<br />
- At least half of the roof requires attention. The west roof is worst affected<br />
and requires immediate attention including re-slating. The stones of the<br />
west parapet require realignment. All of the lead gutters on the south<br />
parapet and half of those on the east parapet need to be replaced with<br />
copper ones. Work on the west roof, gutters and stone is scheduled to take<br />
place in the summer/autumn of 2003.<br />
- There are a number of masonry defects which require work, including<br />
cracked stones in the portico. The work on these is also scheduled to take<br />
place in the summer/autumn of 2003.<br />
- Some of the ceilings on the upper floors require restoration or replacement.<br />
- Apart from the ground floor windows, all the other windows in the house<br />
(around sixty) need to be repaired or replaced. The shutters on the<br />
windows require similar attention.<br />
- There is a problem with rising damp in the basement which needs to be<br />
eradicated.<br />
- There are plans to rebuild the four chimneystacks and the kitchen wing at<br />
the rear of the house.<br />
The owners point out that part of the ethos of the School of Philosophy and Economic<br />
Science is to plan <strong>for</strong> the long-term future and that Townley Hall is very much part of<br />
that future.<br />
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Tullynally Castle, Castlepollard, Co. Westmeath.<br />
Tullynally Castle is located outside Castlepollard in County Westmeath. It is owned<br />
by Thomas Pakenham whose family has owned the estate since the mid-seventeenth<br />
century:<br />
- It is one of only two great houses in County Westmeath still in the hands<br />
of the descendants of the original owners, the other being Ballinlough.<br />
- Tullynally is more extensive in area than any other <strong>Irish</strong> castellated house<br />
in Ireland.<br />
- The various phases of work at Tullynally Castle can be attributed to some<br />
of the most important architects of their time. Tullynally was originally a<br />
seventeenth-century two-storey house, partly designed by Graham Myers,<br />
the architect of Trinity College Dublin. It was modified in the eighteenth<br />
century and Gothicised in the early nineteenth century to the design of<br />
Francis Johnson who gave the original house a battlemented parapet and<br />
round corner turrets. In the 1820s the house was further enlarged, this time<br />
through the design of James Shiel. Then in the late 1830s and early 1840s,<br />
Sir Richard Morrison was employed to enlarge the castle once again. In<br />
1860, J. Rawson Carroll designed the tower that was added to the corner of<br />
the stable court.<br />
- Its main architectural features include a magnificent two-storey hall; an<br />
octagonal dining-room designed by James Shiel that has wallpaper<br />
originally designed by A.C. Pugin <strong>for</strong> the British House of Lords; and a<br />
very impressive library which houses an important collection of books.<br />
- The castle contains an important collection of family portraits and <strong>Irish</strong><br />
Chippendale and Regency furniture.<br />
- The library has been described as ‘possibly one of the best country house<br />
libraries left in Ireland’.<br />
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- The house was one of the first in the British Isles to be centrally heated<br />
and the heating system was designed by Richard Lovell Edgeworth,<br />
inventor and father of novelist, Maria Edgeworth.<br />
- The gardens of Tullynally have been restored recently with the help of<br />
grants under the Leader Scheme; they now attract up to 5,000 visitors per<br />
annum.<br />
Tullynally has remained in reasonably good condition. Its upkeep is presently funded<br />
by the estate farm of around 1,000 acres; the leasing of ex-labourers’ cottages; the<br />
leasing of parts of the house to seven families; and private income from other sources.<br />
- In the recent past, huge sums of money have been expended on the roof<br />
and other restoration projects, partly funded by the <strong>Heritage</strong> Council.<br />
However, the roof still requires a good deal of work; in particular there is a<br />
problem with old lead tanks used to collect water which have now become<br />
permeable.<br />
- Because heating costs are so high, the family live in only a small section of<br />
the house that has its own ‘mini-heating system’. They only open the main<br />
rooms in the summer or <strong>for</strong> special occasions.<br />
- The owners argue that because the maintenance of the house is largely<br />
dependent on the estate farm, any downturn in agriculture will have a<br />
detrimental effect on their ability to continue.<br />
- Insurance costs are a source of concern; the contents of the castle are not<br />
insured to their full value.<br />
- The owners worry that the next generation may not have the personal<br />
motivation to keep Tullynally going. They recognise that to do so is very<br />
much a personal choice.<br />
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Tyrone House, Dublin<br />
Tyrone House is located on Marlborough Street in Dublin. Originally built in 1740 <strong>for</strong><br />
Sir Marcus Beres<strong>for</strong>d, it now houses the offices of the Department of Education and<br />
Science. The Office of Public Works is responsible <strong>for</strong> its upkeep and maintenance:<br />
- Tyrone House was designed by Richard Castle. It has been suggested that<br />
this was Castle’s first ‘big house’ and the earliest important example of his<br />
work to be built entirely in stone. In the mid-eighteenth century, it was<br />
considered one of the most elegant private houses in the city.<br />
- Much of the interior is of mahogany finish, including the whole of the<br />
main staircase and the unusually wide-panelled wainscoting.<br />
- Much of the interior plasterwork was carried out by the internationallyrenowned<br />
Francini brothers.<br />
- The main reception rooms on the first floor are characterised by beautiful<br />
ceilings.<br />
- As a whole, the large rooms, hall and staircase are thought to be amongst<br />
the most impressive in Dublin.<br />
Much of the original integrity of the house and its surroundings has been<br />
compromised over the years. There was originally a five-acre garden at the rear of the<br />
house, which has long since disappeared under development. The integrity of the<br />
house itself has also been compromised by its conversion from a private residence to<br />
what is effectively an office block. In the recent past, new toilets, tea stations, a lift<br />
and an escape stairs serving Tyrone House were incorporated in a link to the rear of<br />
the house.<br />
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Very little work has been carried out on this house in recent years. Despite the fact<br />
that it is state-owned, the necessary finances to carry out restoration work have not, it<br />
seems, been made available until quite recently. It is now proposed to carry out<br />
extensive renovations which will include repairs to the roof slating, valleys, parapets<br />
and gutters; repairs to damaged and defective stones and pointing on the external<br />
walls; refurbishment of windows and shutters; treatment of damp in the basement and<br />
the restoration of plasterwork; the upgrading of the mechanical and electrical services.<br />
The house will continue to function as government offices <strong>for</strong> the long-term.<br />
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Westport House, County Mayo<br />
Westport House is located on the outskirts of Westport town. It is owned by the<br />
Browne family whose ancestors first built the house in the early-eighteenth century.<br />
- Westport is the largest and probably the most important house surviving in<br />
the west of Ireland. Indeed it is one of the very few houses of national<br />
importance surviving in the west.<br />
- It is the work of several architects, chief amongst these being Richard<br />
Castle who designed the main block of the house in the early 1730s and<br />
Cork-born architect Thomas Ivory who designed the enlargements to the<br />
house in the late 1770s. In the 1780s, James Wyatt was employed to<br />
redesign the interior of the house, while his son, Benjamin, was<br />
responsible <strong>for</strong> some later renovations.<br />
- The delicate Adam-style plasterwork in the dining room is regarded as<br />
being among the best examples of Wyatt’s work. The room itself is<br />
regarded as one of the finest of its type in Ireland.<br />
- The entrance hall to Westport is significant <strong>for</strong> the fact that it is the only<br />
surviving interior designed by Richard Castle that remains intact.<br />
- The grand imperial staircase of Sicilian marble was designed by George<br />
Wilkinson.<br />
- The two columns standing on the south front of the house are replicas of<br />
the original columns from the doorway of the Treasury of Atreus at<br />
Mycenae which were brought back to Ireland in 1812 by the 2 nd marquis<br />
of Sligo and later presented to the British museum by his descendant, the<br />
6th marquis, in 1906.<br />
- Much of the original contents of the house have survived intact. They<br />
include portraits by Kneller, Reynolds, Coats and Hone; a collection of<br />
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landscapes by James O’Connor of Westport as well as by Barrett, Wooten,<br />
Chalon and Gibson; an impressive collection of <strong>Irish</strong> and Old English<br />
silver and Water<strong>for</strong>d glass.<br />
- The family archive has recently been purchased by the National Library of<br />
Ireland.<br />
The house is presently run by Lord Altamont as a family business. In the 1960s, it was<br />
one of the first <strong>Irish</strong> houses to be opened to the public. Since then the walled garden<br />
has been converted into an animal and bird park, while the outbuildings have been<br />
converted into a bar, restaurant, children’s play centre and shops. Such developments<br />
on this important demesne may not be to the purists’ taste but arguably they have<br />
been necessary in order to keep the house going. Since the 1960s, over three million<br />
people have visited the house and gardens. Today it employs up to 100 people during<br />
the summer months and it is generally accepted that the publicity which Westport<br />
House has received down through the years has contributed greatly to the growth of<br />
tourism in the area and consequently the growth of the local economy.<br />
The house is now in relatively good condition. In the last number of years major work<br />
has been carried out on such projects as the rewiring of the house and the replacement<br />
of most of the windows, both partly funded by the <strong>Heritage</strong> Council. The roof requires<br />
attention and funding <strong>for</strong> the same is currently being sought.<br />
The owners claim that the survival of this house is very much dependent upon the<br />
tourist market. They also regard insurance premiums and the uncertainty of the<br />
insurance market in Ireland as the most serious problem facing Westport and, indeed,<br />
all historic houses open to the public in Ireland. Lord Altamont has, on more than one<br />
occasion, claimed that the escalating costs of insurance (public liability increased by<br />
61 per cent in 2002) could cause him to close the house.<br />
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