MarC BrighTon - African Ascent Project
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MarC BrighTon - African Ascent Project
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The journal of the<br />
UCT<br />
Mountain<br />
& Ski<br />
Club<br />
2009
Who else? Ramblin’ Gus Mo’s personal effects at the Alder Ring<br />
From the officials<br />
Contents<br />
Editor’s note: Steven Cohen 4<br />
Editor’s note: JP Roux 5<br />
Chairman’s report: “The way things have been” – Angus James Morrison 6<br />
Treasurer’s report: “Creative accounting” – Phillip Cranz 8<br />
Climbs convenor’s report: JP Roux 9<br />
Outreach report – Lizelle Niit 10<br />
Huts – Marc Brighton 12<br />
Climbing wall – Calvin (Fuzzy) Kemp 13
From the hikers<br />
Drakensberg – Phillip Cranz 14<br />
Drakensberg route guide – JP Roux and David Karpul 21<br />
Elandspad hike – Richard Bryer 26<br />
The Roof – Marc Brighton 27<br />
Milner Flakte – Mikhaela Levitas 28<br />
Uganda – Simone Haysom 32<br />
From the climbers<br />
USSA – Julia Chen 39<br />
Tafelberg – Sebastian Wyngaard 42<br />
Rocklands – Robbie Fraser 47<br />
Botswana bouldering – Marijus Šmigelskis 50<br />
And then…<br />
Orienteering “Report” – Nick de Klerk 53<br />
Chocolate bananas – Kush Singh 56<br />
Taxi Association newsletter – Lizelle Niit 57<br />
Cheese and wine – JP Roux 58<br />
On spontaneity – Jem Gorven 59<br />
Notes from the Waaihoek Time Capsule 60<br />
Cover photo<br />
Simone Haysom, Steven Cohen, Jeremy Gorven and Ida-Maria<br />
Heggelund in Uganda. See page 32.<br />
This page, and illustration on page 58<br />
Artwork by Jaas Raath, scanned from an old MSC journal.<br />
Design and layout: Graham van de Ruit
TO THOSE WHO DON’T KNOW ME, I WAS A NEWLy<br />
active member in 2008. I have been in the hiking<br />
club since first year. And for the first three years I was<br />
like so many of the members, completely inactive.<br />
One day, Mikhaela suggested I come on the Hoare<br />
Hut fresher’s hike. And for some strange reason I<br />
thought: “Why not give it a go?” So I did. I went up to<br />
our Hoare Hut and have been up several times since.<br />
Just one push to experience hiking with the club and I<br />
was hooked.<br />
The famous Hoare Hut was what triggered my<br />
interest in hiking. Though the walk up there is a slog,<br />
and I was quite unfit at the time, the pools along the<br />
way and the hut at the top were so worth it. The view<br />
and talking nonsense, playing drinking games and<br />
cooking in such a setting is something everyone should<br />
experience. The only downside is the walk back; then<br />
you have civilization to look forward to, and that is<br />
often not as greatly anticipated.<br />
The following times I have been up to Hoare Hut<br />
have been even more momentous. The Hoare Hut<br />
birthday bash, when you get to the top and are greeted<br />
by people dressed formally with sparkling wine<br />
in hand. I will never forget Angus wearing a dress<br />
and Ida Maria in high heels. The occasion of Witels<br />
comes to mind, when I bravely took on carrying a fire<br />
extinguisher up to the hut, all I can say is that I still do<br />
not like fire extinguishers. Also, when we encountered<br />
the first rock pools on the way, a few people just took<br />
4 The University of Cape Town<br />
Letter from the editor:<br />
The Mountain & Ski experience<br />
STeven Cohen<br />
off their clothes and swam naked. This was new to me,<br />
but now I don’t even notice when hikers do that. The<br />
most recent time I went up we walked to Waaihoek<br />
peak and watched the sunset, with sundowners.<br />
The club is full of people who have certain interests<br />
in common, some of them a little bit crazy as well.<br />
you meet people from every stage of their university<br />
careers and from all faculties. To be honest if you, ever<br />
want to learn about life, the world, physics, religion,<br />
engineering, commerce, or anthropology, just go on a<br />
few hikes and talk to your fellow hikers.<br />
The sense of adventure is still maintained in the<br />
club and the drive that the members have to not only<br />
explore their surroundings mountains, but also to<br />
show it to others. The adventures that occur are often<br />
unexpected and wild, but such fun.<br />
The more you put into the club the more you<br />
get out. I was lucky enough to go on the expedition<br />
to Uganda in 2008. It was one of the most amazing<br />
experiences. you will read about it shortly, but after<br />
five days of climbing at high altitude through swamps,<br />
and one day of ice climbing, the hot shower at the end<br />
and a flushing toilet were the greatest things in life. To<br />
this day I still don’t understand why out of the seven<br />
people who went on the expedition, I was the only one<br />
to fall into every single swamp and also to get malaria<br />
twice. Despite the bad luck, it’s a must do for anyone<br />
who enjoys hiking.
Letter from the editor:<br />
a word for the future<br />
jp roux<br />
WHILE STEvE AND MySELF LABOURED AT THE<br />
2009 journal (Steve running after prospective<br />
advertisers, me putting photos and articles together),<br />
many things that never seemed apparent in the past<br />
became embarrassingly obvious. I’d like to dedicate<br />
this article to future MSC committees (and especially<br />
the journal editors) in the hope of making this annual<br />
exercise more efficacious and satisfying, both to the<br />
readers and the editors.<br />
a) What goes in the journal<br />
Our annual journal is the vehicle by which we<br />
communicate the stories of our adventures amongst<br />
ourselves, the climbing-hiking-skiing community at UCT.<br />
It’s not just about the mountains we’ve climbed, but<br />
about how it felt to climb those mountains, and about<br />
forgetting the gas and the teabags in the car. It’s the<br />
qualitative recollections that make it fun to pick up any<br />
MSC journal and laugh about the antics of the members of<br />
that year. This is much how it has been and that’s good,<br />
but an important part is also the historical record we<br />
leave for future generations. How many conservation trips<br />
did we do and how many pines did we cut down? What<br />
maintenance has been done on Hoare Hut and what needs<br />
to be done in the following year? What was the member<br />
count and how many active members did we have? What<br />
is the state of our affairs with UCT administration and<br />
the MCSA? These are the quantitative questions that<br />
seem to become more important once you take a step<br />
back to evaluate the evolution of our club over a period<br />
of time. In this regard the committee reports play an<br />
essential role in tracking the factual issues. Importantly<br />
these articles should serve to give account of what you’ve<br />
achieved during your tenure as well as advice for the next<br />
person who fills your portfolio. The 2008 journal editor,<br />
Megan Greenwood, started a good trend by partitioning<br />
the journal with a section that deals specifically with<br />
committee reports. I have continued this trend, although<br />
I am disappointed in missing several reports. Obviously<br />
certain portfolios lend themselves to more informative<br />
reports than others. So, for example, the position of<br />
secretary, although administratively essential does not<br />
seem to merit an individual report. But most portfolios<br />
should be expected to give account; not just Chairman<br />
FroM The oFFiCialS<br />
and Treasurer, but also Conservation, Zuurberg, Huts and<br />
the respective Convenors. In the 2007 journal for instance<br />
there was no treasurer’s report (although Phil did do a<br />
sterling job at the AGM!). It’s worthwhile considering this<br />
as an obligation within our standing rules.<br />
b) how we put it together<br />
Since my own involvement with the committee started<br />
it has always been the case that the journal was started<br />
over the summer holidays and completed around March<br />
of the following year. This creates a whole bunch of<br />
headaches and inefficiencies. 1) It’s hard to get people to<br />
write articles. A lot happens in a year and memories and<br />
willpower fades as we party it up over the summer only<br />
to embark on a new year’s adventures in January. This<br />
means the journal is not always representative of the<br />
club’s activities. In the 2009 journal for instance we don’t<br />
have an article on any of the Freshers’ hikes/climbs. 2)<br />
It means that the person elected to the journal portfolio<br />
only starts with his/her work when the term of the<br />
committee of which they were a part ends. 3) By the time<br />
the journal is printed at the end of March of the following<br />
year, many of the people who feature in the articles and<br />
contributed to the journal are long gone from upper<br />
campus and never receive a copy. very sad if you ask me!<br />
A proposal to avoid such issues go as follows: The<br />
journal editor should delegate the writing of articles<br />
at the end of each term and make sure he/she has the<br />
journal articles and photos for that term by early in<br />
the following term. The layout of the journal can then<br />
happen over the course of the year. When the AGM<br />
comes around in September, the only things that need<br />
to be added are the committee reports. The journal can<br />
then move off to print fairly speedily so that when that<br />
year’s members leave by mid November, whether for<br />
the summer or forever, they can do so with a copy of<br />
the journal in the hand, perfect for a nostalgic reading<br />
session on a summer’s evening.<br />
Lastly I’d like to thank (Long) Graham van de Ruit<br />
who, for a nominal fee, was willing to design this<br />
journal for us. It looks great, and neither Steve nor I<br />
can imagine being forced to teach ourselves Adobe<br />
InDesign on the fly. Muchas Gracias!<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 5
THIS yEAR HAS BEEN AN INTERESTING ONE, AS THE<br />
Chinese are reputed to say. It has been a year of<br />
challenges and triumphs, and one of change.<br />
Within a week of the election of this year’s<br />
committee, the anticipation of academic pressure<br />
forced a number of resignations, notably Crazy Dave<br />
Wilkinson as Secretary and Kirsty du Plessis as Socials,<br />
although she remained on the committee without<br />
portfolio. We decided to merge some portfolios<br />
and abolish others, but were still left without an<br />
equipment officer or secretary. However, Craig de<br />
villiers, the new ski convenor and a second generation<br />
MSCer introduced us to Chris Campbell who we coopted<br />
as equipment officer, and whose legal training<br />
we came to appreciate later in the year in dealing with<br />
the abuse of permits for the Wit Els and for Hoare Hut.<br />
Mikhaela Levitas, who had been elected vice chair in<br />
addition to carrying on with her extremely successful<br />
hikes portfolio, introduced us to Richard Bryer who<br />
we co-opted as Secretary and who turned out to be<br />
fantastically proactive in securing sponsorship for the<br />
club from Cape Storm later in the year. This early crisis<br />
averted, we were able to approach O-week with a full<br />
and enthusiastic committee.<br />
This year we signed up about 600 membersenough<br />
to maintain our place as the second largest<br />
mountain club in Africa, after the Cape Town section<br />
of the MCSA, but nearly 200 less than last year. As<br />
usual we put in a lot of effort on the Plaza; with the<br />
traditional climbing wall, braai and paddling pool,<br />
and as usual a good deal of our sign-ups were due<br />
to the charm and charisma (and often bullying and<br />
cajoling) of Mikhaela and JP Roux, who had taken<br />
on the role of climbs convenor. However, this drop<br />
in sign-up numbers was only the first symptom in a<br />
malaise that was to infect the club for the rest of the<br />
year. Whether as a result of the contracted academic<br />
calendar, or merely due to the cyclic nature of student<br />
6 The University of Cape Town<br />
Chairman’s report<br />
The way things have been<br />
anguS MorriSon<br />
interest, we were to suffer from a marked student<br />
apathy that affected both the committee and the<br />
ordinary membership. There seemed to be a decline in<br />
the spontaneity that had become a hallmark of MSCers,<br />
with very few hikes being proposed or organised by<br />
non-committee members. A notable exception to this<br />
was Nicholas de Klerk who made a noble effort to<br />
resuscitate Orienteering in the MSC. There were also<br />
fewer regulars on hikes, with students apparently<br />
choosing only one or two hikes to go on each semester.<br />
Despite this, we still managed to develop a strong<br />
core of enthusiastic members, many of whom were<br />
postgraduates joining for the first time, or returning<br />
after a few years of inactivity.<br />
This apathy was particularly noticeable in<br />
our service portfolios – Outreach, Education and<br />
Development and Conservation. Thanks to the grit<br />
and determination of Lizelle Niit and her dedicated<br />
group of Outreachers we were able to maintain our<br />
enormously successful Outreach Program, often<br />
against tremendous odds, and the jealousy and<br />
opposition of some quarters within the communities<br />
from which our learners come. Education and<br />
Development and Conservation were not as fortunate<br />
and, in Conservation in particular, it has been a shame<br />
that we have not been able to maintain the head of<br />
steam developed last year by Marc Brighton and Long<br />
Graham van de Ruit. This year we also lost the driving<br />
force of the former MSC and current MCSA members<br />
Pierre Hoffa and Roger Diamond who had done so<br />
much to help us with the organisation of pinehacks<br />
over the previous two years.<br />
One area that did not suffer from any lack of<br />
enthusiasm, however, was climbing. Despite working<br />
on his Honours, JP was able to organise and personally<br />
lead up to 2 climbing meets a weekend, as well as<br />
longer trips to Montagu, Rocklands and elsewhere. He<br />
instituted a series of “Easy Fridays” to give beginners
a chance to improve their skills and more experienced<br />
climbers to get a few hours of climbing in before the<br />
weekend, and organised, with the help of our newly<br />
elected climbs convenor, Joe Mohle, beginner trad<br />
meets. JP also managed the UCT team that dominated<br />
the USSA climbing tournament.<br />
This year we opened our new climbing wall at<br />
the recently-completed UCT Fitness Centre on middle<br />
campus. That we were able to do so is due in no small<br />
part to the dedication of Calvin “Fuzzykid” Kemp, who<br />
carried the impetus he had built up last year with Greg<br />
Bowden and Julia Chen into his new role as climbing<br />
wall convenor. He tirelessly worked with John Donald<br />
of Sports Admin to complete the wall and then spent<br />
his holiday costing, designing and even building the<br />
seamless crash mats that now line our climbing wall.<br />
He has done much this year to rally the bouldering<br />
community, even hosting a monthly Bouldering League<br />
event organised by Marijus Smigelskis and Julia Chen.<br />
Fuzzy was also instrumental in securing sponsorship<br />
form the MCSA, through the intercession of that MSC<br />
stalwart Julia Wakeling, for the purchase of grips for<br />
the climbing wall.<br />
Our second crisis as a committee came in early<br />
March when Mikhaela, with characteristic spontaneity,<br />
decided to take a year off to travel. It was quite a blow<br />
to lose our hikes convenor, especially one with as<br />
much drive and passion as Mikhaela, and even more<br />
of a blow when her appointed successor, the legendary<br />
Norwegian adventure-knitter Ida Maria Heggelund,<br />
returned to Norway in the middle of the year. We<br />
were saved by Steve Cohen who assumed the mantle<br />
in his quiet and efficient way. He not only took over<br />
the task of planning each quarter’s meets (as well as<br />
his position as Journal Editor), but also, with Marc,<br />
personally led most of them. Mikhaela had also been<br />
vice chair, and that position was filled by the already<br />
overworked JP, who proved his mettle by being the<br />
FroM The oFFiCialS<br />
most selfless and hard-working vice a heart could<br />
desire. If in the latter part of my term as chair I was<br />
able to achieve anything it was due to the help and<br />
support I received from JP.<br />
This year was also Andy Lewis’ first year as the new<br />
president of the MSC, taking over from his godfather,<br />
Greg Moseley. He immediately justified his appointment<br />
last year by spearheading a legal response to a member<br />
of the public who had advertised the Wit Els as an<br />
adventure holiday, and he again proved his worth<br />
later this year in helping us strike a balanced position<br />
with regard to an MCSA member who had been caught<br />
breaking into Hoare Hut during the ski season. Most<br />
importantly, however, Andy has proved himself both<br />
dedicated and involved, often joining me for a coffee in<br />
the Physics Department tearoom for an update and to<br />
offer advice on how to handle tricky situations in the<br />
committee and in the club. He and my predecessor and<br />
friend, Jeremy Gorven, have been the silent strength<br />
behind the running of the club this year.<br />
I realised with some surprise that this year was<br />
my fifth as a member of the Mountain and Ski Club,<br />
and my third as a member of the committee. For four<br />
of those years I have known Jem and Phil Cranz, the<br />
three-years-in-a-row treasurer, and although many<br />
of my generation of MSCers graduated and moved on<br />
last year, it was always the same old MSC as long as<br />
Phil and Jem were around. I will still be a part of the<br />
MSC next year, as will Andy, Claire Corbett, Ant Hall,<br />
Long Graham, Mikhaela, Marc and, of course, JP, but I<br />
can’t help feeling as though it is the end of an era and<br />
that it is a very different club that JP will be chairing<br />
next year. I’d like to thank every member of the MSC<br />
for contributing to the spirit that makes our club what<br />
it is, and especially I’d like to thank my committee for<br />
just being super.<br />
-Angus James Morrison<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 7
100 000<br />
80 000<br />
60 000<br />
40 000<br />
20 000<br />
Other<br />
0<br />
O-week<br />
Climbing<br />
Outreach<br />
Hiking<br />
2007<br />
Huts<br />
8 The University of Cape Town<br />
Treasurer’s report<br />
a Beginners guide to the art of<br />
Bookkeeping for Mountaineers<br />
philipp Cranz<br />
Total income<br />
Conservation<br />
Zuurberg<br />
Total expenses<br />
Climbing<br />
Wall Socials<br />
& Bar<br />
2008<br />
Skiing<br />
VAT<br />
Equipment<br />
2009<br />
Journals<br />
Breakdown<br />
HIGHLy DOUBT THAT ANyONE WILL MAKE THE<br />
I effort of reading this complicated (yet highly<br />
transparent) report. However, compelled by section<br />
53c of the non-existing MSC constitution and the<br />
unambiguous instructions from our authoritative<br />
Chairperson, I saw no way out but to compile<br />
this summary on money laundering and creative<br />
bookkeeping…<br />
Throughout my three years as treasurer the club<br />
was successful in increasing its income by 54% to<br />
R97 500 in 2009 – well done to all those recruiters<br />
of naïve first years, those milking the system for<br />
subsidies and those making advertising companies<br />
believe that Hikers and Climbers had money to spend!<br />
Total expenditures, in contrast, increased by only<br />
4% over the last year to R52 400. I might have to add<br />
that we had a minor capital expenditure for climbing<br />
mats that I decided not to include as a general expense.<br />
The fact that this acquisition cost the club some<br />
R44 000 would anyway affect the bottom line only<br />
marginally…<br />
A Breakdown on which portfolio spends the most<br />
is visible on the left – and fairly self-explanatory.<br />
Unfortunately, I found no way to limit our social<br />
engagement in the form of value Added Tax (vAT).<br />
With R40 500 in the Special Account, R36 000 in<br />
the Witels Account and an impressive balance in a<br />
Savings Account, I am leaving my post as Treasurer<br />
in the hands of Rich and the new Committee.<br />
Looking forward, the Club will continue to focus its<br />
expenditures on long-lasting capital investments<br />
(Equipment, Improvements) and important<br />
“Teambuilding Exercises” (Socials, Hikes, Climbs).
Climbs report<br />
Climb on, you crazy diamond<br />
jp roux<br />
IT ALL SEEMS A BIT HAZy NOW. WE WERE AT THE<br />
AGM. I was planning to man the bar again for<br />
another year, or maybe the equipment room. Crazy<br />
Dave shouted out: “JP for climbs convenor!” or<br />
something to that effect. I thought: “That’s the one<br />
with ropes, right?” And as the vikings used to say: the<br />
rest is history.<br />
I don’t know how often a novice has been elected as<br />
climbs convenor, but in retrospect it seems that being<br />
a good climber is not necessary to make a success of<br />
this portfolio. In fact, sometimes being a good climber<br />
might have an adverse effect on succeeding as climbs<br />
convenor. ‘Succeeding’ here requires some unpacking:<br />
In my instance I felt it meant making an otherwise<br />
intimidating sport as approachable as possible for<br />
as many people as possible. Regular climbers settle<br />
into respective crews and mostly have the means at<br />
their disposal to go out and climb. It’s the new kid;<br />
the one without the shoes or the crash pad, without a<br />
climbing partner, who doesn’t know where the crags<br />
are or how to tie a figure of eight that can really use<br />
a good convenor. Once the climbing virus has sunk its<br />
tentacles into your brain, you don’t need a convenor to<br />
organize your trips for you, and being a convenor can<br />
only get in the way of your own climbing.<br />
Montagu Freshers, as we’ve come to expect, was<br />
a hit, with at least 60 students partying at the lapa at<br />
De Bos on Saturday night. Again UCT’s top climbers<br />
dominated USSA (refer to Julia Chen’s article). And<br />
the year did not pass us by without a few visits to<br />
Rocklands (refer to Robbie Fraser’s piece). But if there<br />
was one thing that really expressed the climate of<br />
climbing in the MSC in 2009, it was the Easy Fridays:<br />
So you’ve only climbed once or twice before, or never<br />
at all, but you’re interested? you had a stressful week;<br />
you have plans for the weekend, but a Friday afternoon<br />
FroM The oFFiCialS<br />
free? Leaving school at lunch, heading off to one of the<br />
close and easy peninsula crags, having some laughs<br />
and wrapping the week up with a view. From the start<br />
the concept was a hit, and every other Friday saw a<br />
group of 12 – 18 students try their hand at climbing,<br />
often for the first time. With the much appreciated<br />
help of many committed climbers the MSC taught more<br />
people how to tie a double figure of eight than I care<br />
to remember. I don’t know exactly how many Easy<br />
Fridays we did in the end, nor how many people went<br />
in total, suffice to say that if I had to put up another<br />
toprope on ‘Chicks dig it lank (14)’ at Lower Silvermine<br />
I’ll throw myself off the top instead.<br />
Many of the peeps I now see at the new wall on a<br />
regular basis were fence sitters when they came on<br />
their first Easy Friday. Many now crank much harder<br />
than I do, and some have branched out to trad in a big<br />
way. Many more of course did not catch the climbing<br />
virus. For them, their happy association with climbing<br />
will always only extend to sunny Friday afternoon<br />
outing once a month to Silvermine to have fun<br />
toproping a 16… and that’s great!<br />
My commitment to pitching the majority of the<br />
MSC climbing meets to noobs was of course far from<br />
a self-denying act of charity. I also started my term as<br />
convenor without shoes, a rope, or draws (I still don’t<br />
have my own rope or draws). From not having lead a<br />
route to working a 5* at Bosch crag, from only knowing<br />
the indoor bouldering wall to seeing the sun set over<br />
Rocklands and doing some night time at Roadcrew.<br />
From not knowing what a cam was to falling on one I<br />
placed, this is what the club gives in return! We have a<br />
wealth of experience in the form of Joe, the 2010 climbs<br />
convenor. I’m especially excited about learning some<br />
sick trad skills from him. I also hope he manages to<br />
keep the Easy Fridays going.<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 9
10 The University of Cape Town<br />
Outreach report-back: Meet 1, March 2009<br />
Kirstenbosch and beyond<br />
lizelle niiT<br />
2009’S OUTREACH CONvENOR, LIZELLE, THINKS<br />
deep thoughts on a Sunday afternoon after the<br />
previous day’s Outreach meet, and decides to record<br />
those thoughts instead of doing homework. Here they<br />
are now, for the first time in print.<br />
Dear friends, enemies and primordial ancestors,<br />
yesterday we had our first Outreach meet. It was<br />
inspiring, terrifying and awesome fun all at once… all<br />
in all, it was simply mucking afazing (to use a phrase<br />
suitable for younger readers), and I am looking forward<br />
to doing it again next weekend.<br />
Not everything went smoothly, of course. I thought<br />
for a while that transport for the MSC members was<br />
going to be non-existent, and I dutifully freaked out<br />
about this to the point of putting myself at risk of<br />
a myocardial infarction. (This last term is simply<br />
to prove that they are, contrary to popular belief,<br />
actually teaching us something at medical school.)<br />
My desperate emails and SMSes didn’t get too much<br />
of a response, since it seemed that every club member<br />
worthy of that title was either in Montague or having a<br />
21st birthday party.<br />
In the end, transport was organised at 1:30 on<br />
Saturday morning. And no, you have not suddenly lost<br />
your ability to read: I said “1:30 on Saturday morning”.<br />
That was cutting it slightly fine, I will admit, and I<br />
would like to express my sincere gratitude to my friend<br />
SJ for rescuing me from my own stubbornness. He says<br />
that, as repayment, I am not allowed to disagree with<br />
anything he says ever again, but I strongly disagree<br />
with that proposition.<br />
On Saturday morning, “transport for the MSC<br />
members” turned out to be “transport for Lizelle”, and<br />
SJ and I drove to Constantia Neck alone. When we got<br />
there, Thobela from SAEP and the 26 Grade 10 learners<br />
were waiting for me, having just played a kissing game<br />
I was relieved to have missed. We came up with a few<br />
rules just so that I could write this email and say we<br />
did, found volunteers to carry the food, and divided up<br />
into groups. Then we set off along the contour path,<br />
most of us hoping that we wouldn’t lose the way (or<br />
too many hikers, for that matter).<br />
There was great protest when I mentioned the MSC<br />
rule that we need to get lost at least twice on every<br />
hike. I tried my best to keep that rule and almost, but<br />
not quite, succeeded: the fact that the contour path<br />
doesn’t really branch and that Kirstenbosch has a<br />
map at practically every corner made that task quite<br />
challenging. We did, however, miss the turnoff to<br />
Kirstenbosch at first (despite the very obvious sign<br />
saying “Gardens” pointing towards it), and later had
some trouble finding Kirstenbosch’s main entrance. I am<br />
very proud of myself for managing at least that much.<br />
Being the genius I am, I also managed to hide the<br />
fact that my mountain knowledge amounts to very<br />
little by choosing Kirstenbosch as the destination for<br />
our first hike. We walked around and I could read<br />
the signs out loud, receiving applause after reading<br />
one paragraph in Xhosa. I learned as much as, or<br />
perhaps more than, the programme’s participants, and<br />
every now and again Thobela had to put up with me<br />
enthusiastically telling him what interesting new fact I<br />
had just come across.<br />
The sculptures were equally impressive. Some of<br />
us were fascinated by their symbolic meanings, while<br />
others found them appealing in a slightly… how shall<br />
I put it… different way. you’ll need to see the picture<br />
of Glen kissing a particularly beautiful lady statue to<br />
appreciate this statement fully.<br />
We played games such as “human knots”, we played<br />
Frisbee, a few of the girls and I sang Westlife songs,<br />
we had some hilarious Xhosa lessons, and in general<br />
we simply did our best to disrupt the usual tranquil<br />
atmosphere in Kirstenbosch as much as possible.<br />
We ate seven loaves of bread, 2.5 kg of peanuts and<br />
raisins and 40 fizz pops, and after a few reminders to<br />
the participants managed to leave every picnic spot<br />
clean and free of wrappers. I saw it as a tribute to my<br />
sandwich-making ability when they enthusiastically<br />
FroM The oFFiCialS<br />
complained that the food was not nearly enough, but<br />
I have to confess that that might have been more of a<br />
tribute to their appetites than to anything else.<br />
We spoke about mountains, hiking, future trips,<br />
school, university and a bunch of other random topics.<br />
We also had some conversations hinting ever-soslightly<br />
at that kind of depth and meaningfulness<br />
that those of us who have been hiking for some time<br />
have come to anticipate in mountain conversations.<br />
At those times we spoke about things like crime and<br />
poverty, but also about beautiful, far-away countries<br />
and our dreams for the future. I felt privileged to<br />
catch glimpses into their world and to let them catch<br />
glimpses into mine.<br />
This meet was one of those experiences that shape<br />
your life in a profound way without being anything<br />
spectacular in themselves. Many people would see<br />
nothing special about walking 7.5km along the contour<br />
path and then hanging around at Kirstenbosch for a<br />
few hours, and I would generally agree with them. But<br />
there is somehow something special about propelling<br />
people from less-than-perfect circumstances into a<br />
place where, for one blissful day, nothing matters<br />
except the mountain, the fresh air and the laughter<br />
around them. We saw a past Kirstenbosch curator’s<br />
grave with the subscript, “For his monument, look<br />
around you.” We did, and what we saw enthralled and<br />
delighted us.<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 11
THE HUTS PORTFOLIO COvERS ALL THE HUTS ON<br />
our property; however I will admit that I have<br />
focused almost entirely on Hoare Hut, just below the<br />
top of Waaihoek peak. There are 2 parts in what has<br />
been done this year: maintenance and new projects.<br />
Maintenance is the mundane business of ensuring<br />
that there is always gas for the stove, glass in the<br />
windows and tea in the urn. For this I have to thank all<br />
the poor people who have been saddled with all sorts<br />
of heavy items (notably my brother Robin and Warren),<br />
and the miserable nameless individuals who left it for<br />
me to carry up.<br />
My new projects for Hoare hut have focused on<br />
making it a bit more user friendly, with less clutter and<br />
getting rid of or replacing items that are not used. First<br />
up were some apparently random pieces of wood that<br />
12 The University of Cape Town<br />
Huts report<br />
out with the old…<br />
<strong>MarC</strong> <strong>BrighTon</strong><br />
now form new shelving above the kitchen. Second was<br />
getting rid of the manky old blankets which appear to<br />
have been a happy home for generations of rastuses<br />
(rasti?). Now at the hut are 10 large polar fleece<br />
blankets (some of which made it up just in time for the<br />
snow season).<br />
To be honest, the hut is a never-ending source of<br />
work, as soon as one job is done, the next appears: both<br />
pressure lamps are demanding money with menaces<br />
and more of the wood surfaces are going to need revarnishing<br />
eventually.<br />
yet, it is still completely worth it, to know that<br />
we are maintaining such an amazing place in such a<br />
remote and beautiful area.<br />
See you at the hut sometime in the coming year!
Climbing wall report<br />
Safe landing<br />
Calvin (Fuzzy) KeMp<br />
2009 SAW THE INSTALLATION OF THE NEW CLIMBING<br />
wall at the UCT gym complex on lower campus. This<br />
facility, designed by avid UCT climbers, was graciously<br />
paid for by UCT Sports admin as means to ensure that<br />
UCT continued to produce good results in the years to<br />
come at varsity champs, which indeed happened in<br />
2009. The R120 000 training facility caters to a variety<br />
of climbers, from the beginners to the guys focused<br />
on training hard every week. The MSC invested about<br />
R50 000 of its own money in 2009 to invest in a huge<br />
mat covering that the vast majority of the floor, thus<br />
Notes from the Waaihoek Time Capsule. See page 60 for more.<br />
FroM The oFFiCialS<br />
ensuring injuries are kept to a minimum. The wall also<br />
played host to numerous rounds of the Western Province<br />
Boulder League, which acts as the selection system for<br />
the WP Bouldering team which took top honours at the<br />
2009 Nationals. MCSA Cape Town generously donated<br />
money to the MSC for the purchase of new climbing<br />
holds, a much needed and appreciated donation.<br />
All in all the new climbing wall facility definitely<br />
boosted interest in climbing with its very visible location,<br />
thus creating a great opportunity to introduce more and<br />
more people to the awesome sport of climbing.<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 13
14 The University of Cape Town<br />
8 great Berg-ies<br />
phillip Cranz remembers an epic Drakensberg trip
FroM The hiKerS<br />
it all started with me pulling the shortest straw. Thus, while everyone else<br />
experienced the excessive luxury of Dave’s Land Rover, I got banned to join<br />
old Patrick on a 17 hours bus ride. Exhausted, we arrived at Amphitheatre<br />
Backpackers at 5am the next morning to find the others comfortably rolled up<br />
in their sleeping bags.<br />
After a quick, cold shower a worn out minibus took us up the washed out<br />
road to Sentinel Car Park (half way up we had to point out to Pat that he was<br />
about to lose his mattress off the side of the trailer; he kept trying to lose<br />
his mattress throughout the remainder of the trip). The clouds pulled in as<br />
we were about to take a happy group picture (in hindsight we should have<br />
interpreted this as a warning sign!) but off we went, cheerfully shaking our<br />
backpacks, taking pictures at every corner and throwing snow balls at naive<br />
group members. The first challenge for Dave was the chain ladder leading<br />
up to the escarpment. Dangling in the middle of nowhere he refused to<br />
appreciate our well meant comments (and later persisted in exaggerating just<br />
how high it was).<br />
What a stunning view from the edge of the escarpment overlooking the<br />
Amphitheatre! The drop-off close to a kilometre, the majestic peaks in the<br />
distance, the miniature landscape way down below. We had lunch at the<br />
world’s second highest waterfall, JP took a well documented dump on the<br />
escarpment and finally all eight of us lined up at the edge to do what men have<br />
to do at every cliff.<br />
This is probably a good moment to introduce the team. Eight of us, all lined<br />
up along the edge, all brave men prepared for nature’s challenges. Numerous<br />
individuals had questioned the fact that we didn’t have any female followers.<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 15
The answers ranged from speculations (“the girls were too afraid”), to<br />
frustration (“girls don’t like us”), to rational thinking (“they would only slow us<br />
down”). But away from a hypothetical team and back to a real team:<br />
Without a question, we’d have to start with Marc(us Aurelius Maximus<br />
Thor). With his red woolen Santa Clause gloves, shorts, and a 19th century back<br />
pack, he was the most hard core amongst all of us. The only one to dare meet<br />
the sunrise at the edge of the Amphi armed only with a pair of boxers. And<br />
don’t dare to challenge his status! At one stage he tried to attack Jem with a<br />
frozen stalactite, just to realise that it had better use when melted, boiled and<br />
flavoured with a tea bag.<br />
Second in line, I’ll nominate Mr Karpul. With his holy white hat, his walking<br />
stick and what he calls “a manly grin” he looked like a misplaced grandfather<br />
wandering along the escarpment. In our eyes his character was complete when<br />
we discovered his passionate, yet amusingly hopeless attempts at catching<br />
16 The University of Cape Town
trout, and the fact that a half empty bag of sushi rice had almost prevented him<br />
from climbing Mweni’s pass.<br />
Having had a near death experience after the stalactite attack, Jem had<br />
a sudden urge to run behind the next rock. His hands must still have been<br />
shaking, as moments later we got to admire a strip of toilette paper dancing<br />
and throwing loopings in the wind outside our cave.<br />
JP, the proud owner of the third version of a green jersey had only one<br />
weakness besides losing things. When Dave saw JP with a map in his hands<br />
he smiled, encouraging JP to huff: “why is that ironic Dave… huh? As with<br />
most situations depicted in Alanis Morrisette’s timeless and misnamed classic<br />
‘Ironic’ it’s not so much irony as simple bad luck for whoever follows me as I<br />
trudge of in the wrong direction. Which never happened. Ever.”<br />
Craig, had a badly wounded foot. He was however wise enough not to look<br />
for pity from the rest of us. Instead he trotted behind Dave with his tongue<br />
out, biting on it to hide the pain. Overall, however, he was a daring man, one<br />
of the few willing to brave the mountain for another week and always the one<br />
standing the closest to the edge.<br />
Then we had the random German exchange student, Steffen Pfannkuchen.<br />
His surname translated means pan cake and you are welcome to draw whatever<br />
conclusions you want from this. I felt special pity for Marc who had to share a<br />
tent with Steffen’s lush curly locks. The most optimistic member of our company.<br />
Don’t ask him for directions though; he’s not from around here you know.<br />
The man of secrets was Patrick. We spent days puzzling over the Mweni-pass<br />
“mattress incident.” Why had he dropped his mattress down a gorge and how<br />
did he manage to get Marc to get it for him? On Facebook, Jem summarised:<br />
“Some say that Patrick threatened him with a stick and some maintain he<br />
experienced a momentary lapse in sanity. We will probably never know!”<br />
As the humble and quiet observer I have not a lot to share about myself<br />
with the reader. I had the newest backpack and the nicest camera; I read the<br />
maps better than anyone, was the fittest and dared to stand the closest to the<br />
edges. I cooked the best supper and threw five Basothos and three dogs to the<br />
ground when we were attacked.<br />
But now enough of describing the characters! The trip was an unbelievably<br />
FroM The hiKerS<br />
“We watched Basothos hunt baboons with their dogs, and tried skating on<br />
a frozen lake ( especially JP turned out to have a real talent… ).”<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 17
eautiful and stunning experience. Never had I known that there was<br />
such paradise right in the middle of South Africa. The beauty, but also the<br />
mercilessness of nature was incredible. Combining the first and second trip, we<br />
spent close to two weeks without seeing another human being. Carrying food,<br />
warm clothes and tents on our backs we followed winding paths only trusting<br />
JP’s map-reading abilities and Dave’s GPS. We found caves in the cliffs of the<br />
escarpment, protecting us from the ice cold wind and offering a phenomenal<br />
view over the landscape way below us.<br />
It was in the middle of winter. As the sun slowly disappeared behind<br />
the closest peak, we hastily pitched out tents. The moment the last ray had<br />
disappeared temperatures dropped by ten degrees. Only seconds after sunset<br />
you could draw pictures with your gloved fingers in the layer of ice on the<br />
tents. It got especially bad when the ice-cold wind started, biting into your face<br />
and bending the tent poles. Not surprisingly the exhausting day hikes, the high<br />
altitude and the cold made us crawl into our sleeping bags as soon as possible.<br />
Wearing all the clothes we had, even a three man tent was so cold that a litre<br />
bottle of water placed between our sleeping bags was frozen solid the next<br />
morning. Lying awake in the dark and cold, we took turns reading the only<br />
book we brought.<br />
The beauty of the Berg are the passes. Having spread the maps out on the<br />
floor back in Cape Town it was easy to run the finger back and forth and plan a<br />
route zig zagged up and down. But, oh my Basoth, those passes were steep and<br />
long! We sang “Mweni pass’ ass’ grass, Mweni pass’ ass’ grass, Mweni pass’ ass’<br />
grass” for what felt like eternity while placing one foot before the other. Later, in<br />
the safety of Cape Town, JP made an ode to Mbundini pass: “One leg descending;<br />
“Crawling on all fours, trying to keep the resistance of the backpack as<br />
low as possible and grabbing on to every rock and grass bushel, we moved<br />
forward, centimetre by centimetre.”<br />
18 The University of Cape Town
FroM The hiKerS<br />
One leg traversing; One ankle turning; One ankle twisting; Pathless, grinding,<br />
aching gist.” But as the hike progressed our muscles toughened and our skin<br />
hardened. By the time Craig, JP and I descended our last pass (the infamous<br />
Ship’s Prow) down to Injisuthi, we were hardy mountain goats.<br />
The most adventurous (to put it mildly) day was the second last of the first<br />
trip. A snow storm had covered the escarpment with a white carpet overnight.<br />
As the ice-cold wind turned into a storm it felt like our eyeballs got frozen.<br />
Having left the shelter of our cave, we fought our way forward through the<br />
first hundred meters leaning against the wind in a 45 degrees angle, pulling<br />
the balaclavas over the faces. Facing each other at arms length but having to<br />
shout at full volume over the gale, we decided to split the group. Craig needed<br />
to give his foot a rest, this was not Dave’s idea of trout fishing in the berg, and<br />
Patrick… well he is the man of secrets. So Dave, Craig and Pat took the shorter<br />
route down Rockeries back to civilization, while the rest of us followed the<br />
Orange River, somewhat protected by the river banks. Walking past a frozen<br />
waterfall, I struggled to imaging that this was supposed to be the same river<br />
that ran through the burning heat of the Namibian dessert. But sooner or later<br />
we had to leave the protected river banks, and at the top of Mhlambonja Pass<br />
things got crazy as the wind struck with hurricane force. It was only a couple<br />
of hundred meters from the top of the pass to where the cave was indicated<br />
on the map, but it took as more than half an hour to make the little descent<br />
to where the path split. The wind got channelled into a roaring river of air<br />
that ripped everything in its way. We later heard that hundreds of meters<br />
below us the highway between Joburg and Durban had been closed as strong<br />
winds had blown over two trucks. Only in the news had I seen people gripping<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 19
lampposts or railings during hurricanes. But now I experienced it myself. The<br />
only complication was that there weren’t any lampposts to hold onto and<br />
that we found ourselves on an extremely steep incline, perilously balancing<br />
between the rocks on the one side and a fatal tumble on the other. Crawling on<br />
all fours, trying to keep the resistance of the backpack as low as possible and<br />
grabbing on to every rock and grass bushel, we moved forward, centimetre<br />
by centimetre. Impossible to communicate through the howling of the storm,<br />
swallowing dust, and cutting your hands. The only thought that went through<br />
my head was: “Please, just let the cave be where it is indicated on the map!” We<br />
took the turnoff for the Bell traverse, towards the cave and crawled over the<br />
little saddle between the Twins and the escarpment. We turned the corner and<br />
looked about with a mixture of hope and anxiety – there was no cave. No, this<br />
can’t be! It must be here somewhere! We hurried a couple of meters forward to<br />
see Twins cave open up big and inviting – sweet release! Well protected from<br />
the wind, huge and dry, some stalactites hanging from the roof, a stunning<br />
view. Just the howling sound of the wind around the corner, like a fighter jet<br />
accelerating for lift-off, reminded us of what we had been through.<br />
It is difficult to describe our feelings when we reached Cathedral Peak Hotel<br />
the next day. Covered in dirt, sweaty and exhausted we dropped our backpacks<br />
on the veranda of the four start hotel, pushed together two tables and had<br />
what must have been the best beer of my life. After more than a week of eating<br />
nothing but mash, Imama soya mince (chilli flavour!), provita and instant oats,<br />
the large burger with chips was heaven on earth.<br />
After a day’s break only JP, Craig and myself were brave enough to challenge<br />
the Berg for another week. Dave tried his luck catching trout and girls (neither<br />
was successful), while the rest of the group went back to civilisation. A second<br />
week in the Berg with a smaller group was a lot different. We had gotten fitter<br />
and used to the hardship, this allowed us to appreciate the stunning views<br />
even more, cover greater distances per day and waist our energy climbing<br />
surrounding peaks or just rock-sitting on the edge of the escarpment. We<br />
watched Basothos hunt baboons with their dogs, and tried skating on a frozen<br />
lake (especially JP turned out to have a real talent…). (Editorial: We made<br />
a campsite close to Champange castle and named it after Craig’s domestic<br />
worker, Flora, who had been with his family for many years and who had<br />
passed away on our day up Grays pass. GPS for “Flora’s view” S29 04.917 E29<br />
19.677. It requires a bit more leveling).<br />
Craig, Dave and I decided to road trip back to the mother city. We got<br />
spoiled at Jem’s place in Durban, smoked weed in Coffee Bay, visited the<br />
Grahamstown festival, chased girls at the Oyster Festival in Kysna and lunched<br />
at Craig’s place in Somerset West. Sitting here in Johannesburg, half a year<br />
later, recollecting the events, reliving the adventures, and feeling the emotions<br />
of fear and joy once more – I have to admit, this was the best trip ever!<br />
20 The University of Cape Town
Drakensberg<br />
route guide<br />
jp roux anD DaviD Karpul<br />
FroM The hiKerS<br />
one of the top five highlights of my time at UCT, which includes<br />
actually getting a degree, is without a doubt the trips I’ve made to<br />
the Drakensberg. Hiking in the Berg however, as I realized on my first<br />
trip, is not hiking the Otter Trail. There’s a greater sense of adventure, and a<br />
greater sense of truly being in the wilderness that accompanies any foray up<br />
the escarpment. Many of the most beautiful routes are on faint or non-existent<br />
paths. Often you find yourself simply making your own way; stumbling down<br />
Mbundini pass, clutching grass, thinking “Where is that path?” (Aside: there<br />
is no path down Mbundini, but it definitely is a “way to go” so to speak).<br />
This is no doubt part of what makes hiking in the Berg so damn great! There<br />
might well be a whole bunch of good Drakensberg guidebooks out there for<br />
all I know, but I’ve never looked at, much less put down good money for one.<br />
My previous trips to the berg were, either directly or indirectly, structured<br />
around the content of a rather obscure website. Obscure but for the fact that it<br />
was created by an ex-MSC member, famous for his Drakensberg exploits. I’ve<br />
never met Stijn Laenen, but his exploration of the berg is legendary. Geocities<br />
has unfortunately closed down, and with it Stijn’s highly informative page<br />
no longer floats around in cyberspace. He has assured me though that he will<br />
repost the content on www.verticle-endevour.com.<br />
What follows in this article are five suggested routes for hiking the<br />
northern and central berg, from the Amphitheater to Injisuthi. They range from<br />
four to seven days in duration. It includes important GPS coordinates as well as<br />
basic route information. Dave (the most amazing trout fisher I have ever met)<br />
and I have hiked all of these trails between the two of us. The GPS coordinates<br />
are from Stijn’s webpage as well as Dave and my last trip (of which you can see<br />
the photos elsewhere in this journal). Taking any of the suggested “Tours” will<br />
guarantee you sights of some of the most spectacular and remote corners of<br />
the escarpment. Where deemed necessary we’ve included some tips and info<br />
regarding travel and permit logistics, but in this department the reader would<br />
have to do their own research. Our hope is that this article will give many a<br />
Berg virgin the confidence to venture off and see for themselves more than<br />
they’ll find in any travel magazine or coffee table book.<br />
Maps: hiking in the Berg requires a proper 1:50 000 hiking map. Ezemvelo<br />
KZN Wildlife publishes a set of six maps that covers the entire Berg. The MSC<br />
has the complete set in the equipment room and any member may rent them. Or<br />
alternatively you can purchase your own copies at www.themaps.co.za. Tour 1 will<br />
require Map No. 1, “Royal Natal”, in this series. Tour 2 and 3 will require Map No. 1<br />
as well as Map No. 2, “Cathedral Peak”. Tour 4 and 5 will only require Map No. 2.<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 21
Tour 1:<br />
amphitheater to<br />
Mweni<br />
Duration: four days<br />
Day 1<br />
The day’s hiking starts at the Sentinel car park. you<br />
can either drive yourself up the trecherous gravel road<br />
that leads to the car park or organize a ride with the<br />
Amphitheater Backpackers bus that takes guided day<br />
trips up the Amphitheater (we paid R100 pp for the<br />
ride it was worth it!). Along the way there is a parks<br />
fee to be paid. On this trip the fee came to about 70pp.<br />
There is only a half day worth of hiking to be done,<br />
but make sure you get started before noon as you<br />
want to explore the Amphitheater from the top (and it<br />
gets dark really early in the winter). From the Sentinel<br />
car park head up via the well trodden “chain ladder”<br />
route. This is probably the most used pass in the Berg<br />
and likely the only place where you will come across<br />
a dozen or so day trippers and a few concrete steps on<br />
your way. Once you’re up the ladders, follow the path to<br />
the edge of the Thukela falls. Spend the late afternoon<br />
exploring the Amphitheater. There is more than enough<br />
camping space where ever you can find level ground.<br />
We recommend picking a spot a little further along<br />
the Amphi (S28 45.549 E28 54.119) where a rough<br />
bush camp has been built. Be careful for opportunistic<br />
Basotho herders who might pinch your gear during the<br />
night. Better to keep everything inside the tents.<br />
22 The University of Cape Town<br />
Day 2<br />
Leave the Amphitheater behind you as you hike along<br />
the Kubedu river into Lesotho. Where the second big<br />
tributary joins the Kubedu from the left (S28 49.023 E28<br />
54.110), turn left and follow this tributary all the way to<br />
its source at the edge of the escarpment. you will find<br />
yourself at the northern edge of the Stimela Ridge. The<br />
view from the escarpment here is truly spectacular.<br />
Camp where ever you find level, dry(ish) ground.<br />
Day 3<br />
Hike up the last valley immediately behind and parallel<br />
to the Stimela Ridge to the saddle behind Stimela<br />
Peak. A short detour will find you on top of this peak<br />
with an amazing view of the Mweni cutback. Go down<br />
Mbundini Pass (Top: S28 50.750 E28 56.850) to where<br />
the Mubudini river meats the Mweni river. Aside: The<br />
map shows Mbundini pass as a “way to go” which<br />
basically means there’s no path for much of the way;<br />
be careful for sprain ankles on the way down! Try to<br />
stay high up on the slopes and far above the river. Turn<br />
right up the Mweni river and camp at the campsite a<br />
little further up (S28 52.060 E28 59.768). Alternatively<br />
head down the Mweni staying on the west bank (not<br />
a warzone) for about 2 km and set up camp on the flat<br />
field just after the cascading sandstone rock pools ideal<br />
for swimming and said to be one of the seven natural<br />
wonders of the Drakensberg<br />
Day 4<br />
Hike along the contour path that follows the Mweni<br />
river out to Mweni visitors centre (S28 49.150 E29<br />
06.090). Where the management can organise some<br />
local public transport back to where ever you left your<br />
car. Don’t give sweets to the locals, it’s bad for them.
alternative route, days 2 and 3<br />
Day 2<br />
This option sees more hiking and thus less time for<br />
Rock-sitting on your second day so be sure to leave the<br />
Amphitheater early. The map indicates a faint path that<br />
follows the Kubedu river further along, and instead of<br />
turning off at the suggested point above, heads up the<br />
next valley and ends at the top of Fang’s pass. Camp on<br />
the escarpment.<br />
Day 3<br />
Instead of taking Mbundini pass down, take Fang’s<br />
pass. Camp at the spot suggested above.<br />
important gpS coordinates<br />
Sentinel Car Park S28 43.371 E28 53.204<br />
Chain Ladders S28 44.816 E28 52.810<br />
Possible camping Amphitheater 1st<br />
night S28 45.549 E28 54.119<br />
Turnoff point from Kubedu river to Stimela<br />
Ridge S28 49.023 E28 54.110<br />
Possible camping Stimela ridge 2nd<br />
night S28 49.754 E28 56.837<br />
Top of Mbundini pass S28 50.750 E28 56.850<br />
Top of Fang’s pass S28 51.686 E28 56.411<br />
Camping spot Mweni river 3rd night S28 52.060 E28 59.768<br />
FroM The hiKerS<br />
Tour 2: Mweni to<br />
Cathedral peak<br />
Duration: four days<br />
Day 1<br />
Hike from the Mweni visitors info center up<br />
the Mweni river to the suggested camping spot<br />
(S28 52.060 E28 59.768).<br />
Day 2<br />
Hike up Mweni pass. At the top stay on the path that<br />
leads to the top of Rockeries pass. Cross the source<br />
of the Orange river. About half way along the path,<br />
turn left up the hill to the edge of the escarpment.<br />
There should be cairns at the top pointing the way<br />
to Mponjwane cave (S28 53.450 E29 01.792). The<br />
cave is slightly tucked away from your approach but<br />
is well sheltered against some pretty fierce gales.<br />
Alternatively stay in Ledger’s cave, suggested by Stijn<br />
for its spectacular views. (S28 52.982 E29 00.893).<br />
Day 3<br />
Hike along the Orange river. Where the Kokoatsoan<br />
joins the Orange from the left, turn left and follow the<br />
former. Stay on the main tributary of the Kokoatsoan<br />
when it turns to the right and follow this valley up to<br />
the edge of the escarpment. Hike down on the ridge<br />
that is the border between Lesotho and SA to the top of<br />
Ntonjelana pass. From their there a faint path heads up<br />
above the Kwakwatsi river to the top of Mhlambonja<br />
pass. Start going down this pass for a short bit until<br />
the path splits. Go left over a tiny saddle on the Bell<br />
Traverse path. Twins Cave is almost immediately to<br />
your right. (S28 57.075 E29 06.784).<br />
Day 4<br />
you have two alternative routes down to the Cathedral<br />
Peak Hotel: Either the Bell Traverse or Mhlambonja<br />
pass. The Bell Traverse is not to be tried in bad<br />
weather and may not be the route for people with<br />
fear of heights, but is otherwise more scenic than its<br />
alternative. Enjoy a well deserved burger and beer at<br />
the Cathedral Peak Hotel restaurant.<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 23
Tour 3:<br />
amphitheater to<br />
Cathedral peak<br />
Duration: seven days<br />
A combination of Tours 1 and 2. Instead of hiking out<br />
to Mweni visitors centre on the fourth day of Tour 1,<br />
continue with Day 2 of Tour 2 up Mweni pass. I can’t<br />
think of any better way to spend seven days in the<br />
whole of South Africa. For photos of our trip along this<br />
route last year, refer to the photo page in this journal.<br />
24 The University of Cape Town<br />
Tour 4: Circular<br />
hike, Cathedral<br />
peak area<br />
Duration: five days<br />
Day 1<br />
Hike from Cathedral Peak Hotel to Xeni pass. About<br />
150 meters after leaving the contour path to head up<br />
the Xeni cutback there is a tiny camp site for the night<br />
(S28 58.202 E29 08.581).<br />
Day 2<br />
Follow the river up the “way to go” which is Xeni pass.<br />
About 1.5 km from where you left the contour path<br />
you will pass the Plume on your left. Another river<br />
joins from the left directly after this. Turn left here<br />
up Cockade pass to the top. The going is steep, but<br />
rewarding. Camp anywhere at the top.<br />
Day 3<br />
From the top of Cockade pass, stay on the Lesotho-SA<br />
border all along the edge of the escarpment and finally<br />
down to Windy Gap. This day does not involve hiking<br />
to far (as a reward for conquering Cockade pass. Sleep
in Roland’s Cave (S29 00.505 E29 11.165). The cave is<br />
slightly hard to find and perilous to approach, but well<br />
worth the effort: one of the finest views for any cave<br />
in the Berg. Facing Windy gap from the top, there is<br />
a faint path that goes up the right to a narrow ledge.<br />
Mind your step, don’t look down, and around the<br />
corner is your reward.<br />
Day 4<br />
This is a fairly long day of hiking, so make sure you<br />
hit the path early. Hike down the Organ Pipes pass, on<br />
the ridge past the Organ Pipes and the old fire lookout.<br />
Where the path forks at the end of the ridge, turn right<br />
down Phillip’s Folly to the Thuthumi river. Cross the<br />
Thuthumi and Didima rivers and follow the contour path<br />
for another 5km. Take the turnoff to the left after about<br />
5.5km and hike a further +/- 0.5km to Poacher’s cave.<br />
Day 5<br />
Follow the contour path. Cross the eMhlwazini river,<br />
stay on the well trodden path pass the field rangers<br />
outpost all the way to the tar road. Hopefully you can<br />
hitch a ride back to the hikers’ parking.<br />
important gpS coordinates<br />
Camp bottom of Xeni pass 1st night S28 58.202 E29 08.581<br />
Top of Organ Pipes pass S29 00.383 E29 10.561<br />
Roland’s cave S29 00.505 E29 11.165<br />
Tour 5: Monk’s<br />
Cowl to injisuthi<br />
Duration: five days<br />
FroM The hiKerS<br />
Day 1<br />
Take the well trodden path from the Monk’s Cowl<br />
wildlife office pass the Crystal falls up towards<br />
verkykerskop. At the top follow the path as it heads<br />
straight towards the scenic Caithkin peak. At the<br />
T-junction turn right on the contour path and stay on it<br />
all the way around Caithkin peak. Shortly after joining<br />
the eMhlwazini river you will find Keith’s camp (S29<br />
04.043 E29 20.335).<br />
Day 2<br />
Head up Grays pass from Keith’s camp. Spend the<br />
afternoon exploring the escarpment from the top<br />
including the views form Champagne Castle. Camp in<br />
Nkosazana cave or anywhere on the escarpment (our<br />
suggestion: Flora’s Camp, S29 04.917 E29 19.677).<br />
Day 3<br />
Hike down Ship’s Prow pass. Be sure to take the<br />
south fork of the pass as the north fork is rocky and<br />
dangerous. Stay along Ship’s Prow stream. Be prepared<br />
to bash through bushes from time to time. The camp<br />
site is just above where the pass meets up with the<br />
contour path (S29 06.408 E29 21.930).<br />
Day 4<br />
Follow the contour path as it snakes back to Injisuthi<br />
Wildlife office.<br />
important gpS coordinates<br />
Keith’s camp S29 04.043 E29 20.335<br />
Top of Grays pass S29 04.297 E29 19.385<br />
Camp site 2nd night (Flora’s Camp) S29 04.917 E29 19.677<br />
Nkosazana Cave S29 04.314 E29 19.120<br />
Top of Ship’s Prow pass S29 05.978 E29 19.523<br />
Camp 3rd night bottom of Ship’s<br />
Prow S29 06.408 E29 21.930<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 25
elandspad escape<br />
riCharD Bryer<br />
The time has come my little friends, to talk of other things; of boots, of pics<br />
of fynbos kloofs, of waterfalls and kings. No, not the hills of the infamous<br />
Sports Centre parking lot, or the “waterfalls” outside the maths building.<br />
Nay, this trip was about city kids escaping – escaping the electronics, the drugs<br />
and the parking guard at Rhodes Mem who makes you pay R5.<br />
Nestled, like a Nestlé bunny in a tub full of jelly babies, in a valley just after<br />
the Hugenot tunnel, this hike is a real peacher. The hike starts underneath the<br />
highway and slowly as you make your way up into the mountains, the buzz of<br />
the tunnel ventilation (and any semblance of the city life you had before) fades<br />
into the sweet chirping of the yellow-breasted doveling (okay I made that up, but<br />
there were birds okay!) The route lead us upstream for about an hour, and then<br />
up onto the mountainside for another hour. We descended into the river valley,<br />
and marched on for about a kilometer. It was beautiful – a 100 foot waterfall<br />
greeted us with its giant, watery arms – and this would be our destination.<br />
After much screaming in delight, naked frolicking and sandwich dominating,<br />
we turned around and headed home, refreshed and ready to tackle the daily<br />
nuisances and nightly depravity which drove us out there in the first place.<br />
A chilled day hike which packs a serious splendor-punch.<br />
26 The University of Cape Town<br />
More details:<br />
Elandspad is an easy hike close to the Du Toits Kloof<br />
tunnel. The path follows the valley above the river, and<br />
after an hour or two you rejoin the river at a very welcome<br />
pool at Fisherman’s Cave. The river just above the cave is<br />
quite easy to explore, with a bit of wading, and some nice<br />
landmarks like the “Gog and Magog” rocks overlooking<br />
the river. You’ll probably see some disas on the cliffs in<br />
summer. A steep tributary to the right goes off into a very<br />
spectacular narrow gorge ending in a very high waterfall<br />
which few people ever visit. In the main kloof, there<br />
are some wonderful pools, waterslides and one or two<br />
optional jumps. Remember that you can’t go too far past<br />
Fishermans Cave, as you will reach private property, and<br />
your permit doesn’t allow you to go this far. On your way<br />
down, you can follow the river all the way back to the road.<br />
The lower reaches are quite mellow and calm, and make for<br />
pleasant wading, although this annoys the trout-fishermen<br />
who share the lower parts of the river with you. Since the<br />
bottom part of the kloof is quite accessible from the road,<br />
there are often crowds of day-trippers in this area, who<br />
(unlike you) didn’t pay for a permit to be in this area.<br />
Courtesy of (okay I lie, I just stole it):<br />
http://cw.scouting.org.za/greathikes/dayhikes.html
FroM The hiKerS<br />
local is lekker: The roof<br />
<strong>MarC</strong> <strong>BrighTon</strong><br />
The roof tried to happen in the first semester,<br />
however it was called off after a good look at<br />
the weather forecast. Thank goodness, as the<br />
planned date turned out to have some of the worst<br />
storms of that month!<br />
Eventually, well into the second semester, 2 dates<br />
were chosen: the main date and a backup in case of need.<br />
A large group of people signed up for Sunday the 16th<br />
of August, and the majority of them arrived at 5h20am,<br />
none of them having experienced the roof before.<br />
25 people started hiking at 5h30 from the UCT Info<br />
Centre, and made rapid progress up to the blockhouse,<br />
‘persuading’ 3 members of the group that excessive<br />
exercise was not their chosen task for the day. A quick<br />
breakfast was had at the top of minor peak before we<br />
summited devils peak.<br />
Another group member left us to go home via<br />
Newlands ravine. The rest of the group slowly<br />
navigated the challenges of ledges, with 21 people<br />
meaning that the 2 scrambles on the route took over<br />
an hour. We reached Maclears beacon about 11am, and<br />
then had to hustle to cross the top of Table Mountain<br />
in order to reach Constantia Nek in time to meet<br />
Graham Poulter (completing the 2nd half of the roof<br />
after a gap of several years).<br />
Kalk Bay<br />
A baking hot ascent of vlakkenberg was followed<br />
by lunch at the top. By now the strain was starting to<br />
show on some of the group members, but everyone (now<br />
down to 18 people) made it up the top of Constantiaberg,<br />
the last major peak of the day. A quick trot down to<br />
Silvermine was followed by a dip in the dam there.<br />
The problem with the roof hike is always the 7pm<br />
deadline at Kalk bay, when the last train (our means to<br />
get home) leaves. We were now rushing though east<br />
Silvermine trying to make sure that we didn’t get left<br />
behind (like some people last year).<br />
Tired and footsore, we arrived in Kalk bay, and had<br />
just enough time for a quick beer at the Brass Bell. This<br />
was interrupted by a screech that sounded exactly like<br />
a train pulling up at the station, so we sprinted to the<br />
platform to find that it must have been feed-back howl<br />
on the bar’s speakers!<br />
I carried a GPS the whole way, and though it<br />
lost signal for part of the ledges route, it would be<br />
safe to say that the Roof is just under 40km with<br />
approximately 2200 metres of ascent and descent.<br />
This is the epic hike, taking 12-14 hours and<br />
covering in 1 day more than you thought was possible.<br />
Definitely one of the highlights of the MSC calendar; I<br />
look forward to next year’s roof!<br />
UCT<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 27
exploring with<br />
The Captain<br />
28 The University of Cape Town<br />
MiKhaela leviTaS goes skinny dipping, scrambling<br />
and caving on the Milner vlakte<br />
Mid October, Mighty Captain Morgan (Morgan Behr of MCSA) leads<br />
some new and some old into the Hex mountains to summit the<br />
infamous Milner Peak, traverse the vlakte , and bundu bash through<br />
some of the Cape’s thorniest and hardest fynbos.<br />
Day 1: Swim and relax. We left on Friday and hiked up to the Freshers’ dam.<br />
After some epic skinny dipping and a delicious dinner we went to sleep only to<br />
be kept awake by the brightest full moon. At 5am we were awoken by Captain<br />
Morgan. Three hours later we started hiking.<br />
Day 2: Up to the Milner vlakte. We enjoyed lunch at a beautiful spot next to<br />
some great pools about 300m from our campsite for the night. Wedged between<br />
beautiful rock formations we set up camp under the peak. With about 6 hours<br />
till sunset we decided to go exploring and went looking for a cave Morgan had<br />
promised, Chris and company getting very sidetracked, climbed any protrusion.<br />
Eventually we found our cave, wet and dark, and the way out was by tunnelling<br />
up and out through a 3m hole. Jut next door to this cave is another cave that<br />
opens up to two massive arches. We had such fun exploring the vlakte and were<br />
very lucky to have an old-timer to show us the hidden gems.<br />
Day 3: Summit. Don’t be fooled by how easy it looks; it really ain’t. It’s a slog<br />
up to the peak with many a false horizon. The way up is traversed with these<br />
crazy overhangs into the Milner Amphitheatre; quite a thrill lying on the edge.<br />
We climbed to the peak and then some of us scrambled up the needle. After<br />
a long day, bleeding legs and tired eyes, we treated ourselves to Col Cacchios<br />
pizzas. Great weekend, definitely to be repeated!
aDverTorial<br />
african ascent project<br />
have you climbed Mount Kilimanjaro? Do you plan on climbing it in the future?<br />
If you have you will have experienced the same inner conflict that we did when<br />
we climbed: wanting to enjoy the beauty and sheer exhilaration of the climb but<br />
constantly being confronted with the substandard working conditions of our trusted<br />
guides and porters, without whose help the expedition would have been impossible.<br />
When climbing Mount Kilimanjaro most people book through a European or<br />
American company which has partners in Tanzania. The company hires a guide for<br />
each expedition, and each guide is responsible for organizing enough porters. The<br />
company has no contract with the porters and takes no responsibility for their safety<br />
and wellbeing.<br />
Kilimanjaro National Park sets out a minimum wage for porters and guides, and on<br />
average companies pay them half this amount. Porters carry up to 30 kg of luggage on<br />
every given expedition, while the National Park suggests a maximum of 20 kg. They<br />
generally eat only one meal a day, which is almost pure starch. Moreover, porters sleep<br />
in overcrowded tents and are not given the correct gear to summit the mountain.<br />
The porters make most of their money from tips. However, if tips are given directly<br />
to the guides this money seldom finds its way to the deserving porters.<br />
If you have experienced this and wished that there were something you could do<br />
then you are in the right place. The <strong>African</strong> <strong>Ascent</strong> <strong>Project</strong> is a non-profit organisation<br />
with the aim of partnering with local guiding companies and the private sector in<br />
making quality climbing equipment accessible to porters and guides working on<br />
mountains in Africa. By doing this we aim to not only improve mountain safety but<br />
also empower the porters and guides.<br />
To further break the poverty cycle and improve mountain safety, we partner<br />
with other projects, foundations, and the local community in running education and<br />
support programs that uplift porters’ and guides’ lives.<br />
you can now make a difference by donating to our cause and helping us empower<br />
guides and porters through education, access to clothing and improved mountain safety.<br />
Currently, guides and porters are able to ‘rent’ clothing from one facility in Moshi,<br />
however due to the large distances between villages, the facility is inaccessible for most<br />
guides and porters. We are raising funds to support four clothing centres at the gates of<br />
the Kilimanjaro National Park and are accepting clothing donations to fill the centres.<br />
To get involved, to donate and for more information please go visit our website at<br />
www.africanascentproject.com, or email us at info@africanascentproject.com.<br />
FroM The hiKerS<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 29
hall of fame<br />
jp roux<br />
uCT climbers excelled at the 2009 UCT sports<br />
awards, bagging a few prestigious awards<br />
including the Landstem trophy for performance<br />
of the year.<br />
Half Colours were awarded to Duncan Fraser and<br />
Anthony Hall for bouldering and sports climbing<br />
respectively. Double Full Colours went to Julia Chen<br />
and Marijus Šmigelski for bouldering and sports<br />
climbing, whilst Anthony Wood received the same for<br />
bouldering and Joe Mohle for traditional climbing.<br />
Marijus was also nominated for sportsman of the<br />
year. Some of his achievements included winning<br />
the national boulder league, first place at USSA for<br />
bouldering, and being ranked 1st in South Africa and<br />
in the top 100 in the world.<br />
30 The University of Cape Town<br />
The big trophy for the evening, the Landstem<br />
trophy for performance of the year, went to Julia Chen<br />
however for sending Shrek 2, and thus setting the<br />
record for the hardest grade ever bouldered by a South<br />
<strong>African</strong> woman.<br />
Three committee stalwarts were rewarded for<br />
their efforts over the years in running an efficient and<br />
professional club. Phil Cranz; a dedicated treasurer for<br />
three years running, Jeremy Gorven; for the various<br />
capacities he’s served in, including 2008 Chairman,<br />
Angus Morrison; for literally being part of the<br />
furniture (oh, and 2009 Chairman). Their efforts have<br />
proved instrumental in keeping a large and active club<br />
on the straight and narrow.
gallery<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 i
ii The University of Cape Town
Previous page<br />
Phil Cranz in the Drakensberg<br />
Above<br />
Mnweni sunrise, the Drakensberg<br />
Above right, right, and left<br />
Tafelberg trad expedition<br />
gallery<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 iii
Top<br />
Mlambonja, the Drakensberg<br />
iv The University of Cape Town<br />
Above<br />
Amphitheatre sunrise, the Drakensberg
gallery<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 v
Above<br />
Andrew Wood working ‘Who the Fuck is Minki?’, 7C, Rocklands<br />
Opposite, top<br />
Greg Bowden on ‘Poison Dwarf ’, 7B, Rocklands<br />
Opposite, bottom<br />
Julia Chen tackling ‘Orange Heart’, 6C, Rocklands<br />
vi The University of Cape Town<br />
Next page, top<br />
Sunshine in the Ruwenzori, Uganda<br />
Next page, bottom<br />
(Left to right) Craig de Villiers, Phillip Cranz, Simone Haysom, Steven<br />
Cohen, Jeremy Gorven and Ida-Maria Heggelund in Uganda<br />
(Designer’s note: It broke my heart to have to crop this photo for the cover,<br />
so here it is unspoilt.)
gallery<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 vii
viii The University of Cape Town
32 The University of Cape Town<br />
uganda in<br />
gumboots<br />
SiMone haySoM remembers the<br />
mud, the snow, the highs and the<br />
lows of eight days in the Ruwezori
When JP first asked me to write a piece about our Uganda expedition<br />
I felt nervous at the prospect of translating such an impressive<br />
experience into words, and excited to be able to relive those eight<br />
wild days again. But writing about the luscious Ruwenzoris beneath the grey cap<br />
of English sky in a flat shire eighteen months after the fact has proved to be as<br />
challenging a feat as summiting Margherita. Unable to do it justice as a linear<br />
narrative I’ve had to just put together a few of my best memories and hope that<br />
paints an adequate picture.<br />
To set the scene, the Ruwenzori are a three million year old range on the border<br />
of the DRC and Uganda. The range is 120 km long, snow capped and consists of<br />
six massifs separated by deep gorges: Mount Stanley, Mount Speke, Mount Emin,<br />
Mount Gessi, Mount Baker, and Mount Luigi di Savoia. The formation of the range<br />
allows you to walk a circular route through the Ruwenzori Mountain National<br />
Park in Uganda, staying in huts and on paths of varying quality. Porters from<br />
the villages nearby accompany you, as do three guides from the inestimable<br />
Ruwenzori Mountaineering Service (RMS).The highest point is Margherita Peak<br />
on Mount Stanley which racks in at a stately 5 109 m.<br />
Getting going: ‘Us’ consisted of Phil, Jem, Ida, Mix, Steve, Craig and myself.<br />
Getting to the base of the mountains had already entailed some adventures of<br />
the not so wild kind: the team’s research from SA, Jem’s tough bargaining of<br />
a good deal from the RMS, Jem’s expired passport (not a problem for Uganda<br />
immigration apparently), Mix and Ida’s lost baggage, and travelling in two<br />
groups from Kampala to the the far East of Uganda.<br />
We got to the RMS offices early and met our guides. The wise Elias, the silent<br />
Jonson, and the more silent Johnson were all from the area and had hiked the<br />
FroM The hiKerS<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 33
Ruwenzori more times than we’d had hot meals. Once we’d all tried and tested<br />
the equipment we were hiring (crampons, axes, harnesses) and weighed up what<br />
to leave behind we set off down a dirt track to the National Park. On either side of<br />
the track were huts and families, kids carrying kid-sized bunches of bananas, and<br />
patches of coffee beans drying outside in the sun. They called out news and good<br />
wishes to the guides and us.<br />
The first dinner: Was red Thai curry cooked on the stoep of a wooden hut<br />
that overlooked the deep forested valley we’d walked up that first day, a not<br />
too-taxing start. At one point Jem came storming out of the night to call us all<br />
out, stumbling over the tree roots in the dark to see ‘why they call these the<br />
mountains of the moon!’. Between the canopy there was fat and juicy globe,<br />
just about the brightest moon I’ve yet seen.<br />
A to B: The one thing everyone seems to know about the Ruwenzoris is Mud.<br />
Gumboots are a necessary piece of kit and you hardly wear anything else. They<br />
say you walk through five vegetative belts: grassland, montane forest, bamboo,<br />
Heather and the afro-alpine moorland zone. But in truth there is a sixth: the<br />
mud bog. And what do you do if you are Phil, Jem and Craig when confronted<br />
with a mud bog? Try to push each other in, obviously.<br />
Chameleons: Grey ones, green ones, blueish ones, tiny ones, medium ones.<br />
Jonson had an eye for spotting them. Rumour is there are still forest elephants<br />
on the mountains but with all the crashing about, screaming as we nearly fell/<br />
got pushed into mud bog etc the only things slow enough to still be left around<br />
were the colour-changing lizards.<br />
Extreme balcony: Ida and Mix did some extreme things off the balcony of<br />
one of the huts which I won’t go into the details of, for which they were both<br />
34 The University of Cape Town
awarded ‘Man cards’. Mix also got one for lifting Steve about a metre off the<br />
ground with one arm. The female porter got one for making it look easy.<br />
Extreme Ida, extreme Phil and Craig: Two days before the summit we took an<br />
acclimatisation day at a hut near a looking glass lake. Phil and Craig decided<br />
they were acclimatised enough, thank you very much, and popped up Mount<br />
Speke (4 890 m). The rest of us explored the heather, played chess and watched<br />
Ida dance it up with one of the porters to the Swahili tunes on a portable radio<br />
who spontaneously grabbed her boobs and hightailed it back to his hut to the<br />
general hilarity of all, including the madam herself.<br />
Crazy vegetation: Think emerald green, viridian and chrome green in the<br />
form of mosses, huge ferns, old trees, and new shoots. This turned into a brief<br />
patch of minimalist bamboo forest and then gave way to fantastic plants once<br />
again. The mountains are famous for gigantic lobelias and fields of bio-diverse<br />
heathers. I’d have to say the eeriest were the rust coloured ‘clumpy-mosstumour-things’<br />
that added big bulges to tree branches, in misty valleys.<br />
Lady Margharita: By the time we were approaching the last hut before the<br />
summit, it was slow going. The hut is just below the glacier so you are already<br />
almost 5 000 meters at that point, and it is cold. (The porters, though, were still<br />
gamboling up in threadbare clothes with their huge loads supported by a strap<br />
round their foreheads). Our chalet for the night was a tiny triangular thing on a<br />
rocky outcrop. Despite the freezing temperatures with seven of us in it we were<br />
more than cosy enough. We woke up in the dark and put on and packed our<br />
snow gear and a small lunch. With our crampons clanking and our headlamps<br />
on we tramped over the rocks like miners in shackles but travelling up and up<br />
towards the white slopes above. We moved slowly at all stages – clambering<br />
FroM The hiKerS<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 35
over wet rocks, up and down ladders once on the snow and through the soft<br />
deep drifts themselves.<br />
With the peak in sight – but still feeling a mile away – our saddest moment<br />
came. Mix, whose toughness on mountains is matched only by her love for them,<br />
was forced to go down by altitude sickness. She was wise enough to know it,<br />
and to mention it. I can only compare this moment to the scene in the first Lord<br />
of Rings where the mighty Gandalf gets pulled into the depths by the Belroth,<br />
and says ‘Fly you fools!’ and all the hobbits go to pieces and Aragorn looks stoic<br />
and the elf looks inscrutable yet still pained and… Well, it was truly sad.<br />
The stretch that lay ahead though was as mean as it was beautiful. A<br />
blizzard started and the snow was soft. Each step could find you knee or<br />
even thigh-deep. We roped together and practised digging in our axes in case<br />
anyone slid. We passed huge icicles and haunting formations in the ice. We<br />
passed them very, very slowly.<br />
After the snow slope there was some precarious manoeuvring in snow<br />
boots over sharp rocks and soon enough a small, weather-beaten sign came<br />
into view: Margherita Peak, 5 109 m. We cracked open the cheese and crackers,<br />
howled like hyenas and drank in a view all the way into the DRC.<br />
If getting from the hut to the peak was a challenge, it seemed brief and<br />
simple compared to the trip back. I was roped in with Phil and Steve. Ida, Jem<br />
and Craig went on ahead and arrived back at the hut to find Mix feeling a bit<br />
better. They decided it would be best to head to lower ground and added a few<br />
extra hours to summit day to get the next hut.<br />
Phil, Steve and I took a little longer. I don’t know which of them was a bigger<br />
hero – Steve for pushing on through intense exhaustion, or Phil for cracking<br />
36 The University of Cape Town
jokes until the end. By the time we got back to the hut it was dark and more<br />
walking was no option. We relaxed on huge piles of mattresses, ate chocolate<br />
doused in disinfectant (not as good as it sounds) and played card games.<br />
Log Jumping Champions: We rejoined the others the next morning and<br />
decided to power through the last two days in one. By this time we were<br />
mud pros and much of the the remaining bog stretches we spent discussing<br />
the lucrative bog-themed computer game that we could design based on our<br />
experiences, and testing out the moves of course. 100 points for a long jump!<br />
200 points for spotting a chameleon!<br />
Back to humankind: Well, I won’t pretend that after a week of sweat and mud<br />
and temperatures that strongly discouraged stream bathing we weren’t feeling<br />
a powerful desire for a shower. But even then I could tell that saying goodbye<br />
to those mountains would be hard.<br />
We repaired to: lakes and islands in the south of the country for post-hike<br />
R&R, gave Rwanda a look in and spent our last few nights together around a<br />
wood fire with warthogs and hippos wondering around. Uganda was full of<br />
laughs, lessons and friendly people. But the Ruwenzoris have that quality that<br />
only unspoilt mountains can, of being part of another world of moss and ferns,<br />
icy streams and calm lakes, winds and heights, companions and adventurers.<br />
Rereading this I have to conclude it’s a rubbish description of eight days of<br />
hard hiking. you’ll have to go there yourselves. Don’t forget to check when your<br />
passport expires and wear in your wellies.<br />
I’d like to end with some poetry. I had this memorised as a young’un and<br />
the Ruwenzoris inspired me to dig up from the depths of the internet. Next<br />
time I’m in a bog, I know what to shout at the forest elephants:<br />
FroM The hiKerS<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 37
The Muddy Puddle by Dennis Lee<br />
I am sitting in the middle<br />
Of a rather Muddy Puddle,<br />
With my bottom full of bubbles<br />
And my rubbers full of mud,<br />
While my jacket and my sweater<br />
Go on slowly getting wetter<br />
As I very slowly settle<br />
To the Bottom of the Mud.<br />
38 The University of Cape Town<br />
And I find that what a person<br />
With a puddle round his middle<br />
Thinks of mostly in the muddle<br />
Is the Muddiness of Mud.
Climbing<br />
in the<br />
uSSa<br />
julia Chen<br />
FroM The CliMBerS<br />
pretoria – Home of Jacarandas and the Blue Bulls. This was the setting for<br />
the annual USSA climbing competition. Out in Mooiplaats at The Barn,<br />
a few of us had arrived the night before and needless to say it was cold.<br />
Not just cold as in “I’ll just put on a jacket” cold. It was “I’ve put all my clothes<br />
on that I brought with me and I’m still cold” cold. It’s the kind of cold that you<br />
feel right down to your bones and makes your tents freeze over. It was nice<br />
to see the same faces from previous years and to meet new faces from other<br />
universities. The air was filled with excitement and we knew it was going to be<br />
a good three days.<br />
The next morning – in true up country style – we were up, registered<br />
and ready to climb by 7.30am! We started with the lead qualifiers, two routes<br />
each for the men and ladies. Most of the UCT men qualified for the semis and I<br />
qualified for the ladies. After lunch, we began the bouldering qualifiers. Twelve<br />
problems for the men and ladies, a lot of them were shared with ladies having<br />
any feet instead of tracking. A few hours later and many sweaty people, it was<br />
time to chill and do what we came here to do. Socialise! The welcoming braai<br />
was a great way to get to know everyone and the house-sized bonfire proved to<br />
be a winner. But soon enough, everyone turned to their tents and sleeping bags<br />
for warmth and there ended the first day.<br />
Day two was lead day – semi-finals and finals. These up countrymen and<br />
their early mornings! Two routes again to go to the next round, I flashed both<br />
and four of our men qualified for the finals. Afternoon had arrived and the<br />
competitive air had finally set in. The ladies went first; we each had one onsight<br />
attempt whilst the others waited in isolation. The route started on a flat wall<br />
and moved into the almost horizontal roof and then round the lip to finish at<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 39
40 The University of Cape Town<br />
the chains. I went last and managed to get the highest point past the roof and<br />
fell a few moves from the chain. The men’s finals were much more exciting<br />
with Marijus and Heinrich battling it out on the Superfinal. In the end, Heinrich<br />
mustered the strength to just get past by half a move, claiming the Men’s title.<br />
Soon the day was over and the 40 odd of us queued for the showers. With the<br />
bonfire up and going again, everyone was excited for movie night. Neil Margetts<br />
showed up and presented his new vision for climbing in South Africa. Many<br />
exciting things are happening and are going to be happening. It’s a good time to<br />
be a climber in SA. Although it was too cold to sit anywhere outside a 2 m radius<br />
from the fire, the movies definitely got us psyched to climb.<br />
The next and final day was the bouldering semis and finals. So much<br />
climbing, so little time! We got cracking right away and after an already hard<br />
day of bouldering, it was down to me and Ilse in the finals and Marijus and<br />
Andrew in the Men’s. We both sent all the final problems and so were going<br />
to fight it out in a Superfinal. Marijus and Andrew also were head-to-head the<br />
entire way right to the Mens’ Superfinal. We each took turns on a problem and<br />
“It was down to me and Ilse in the finals and Marijus and Andrew<br />
in the Men’s. We both sent all the final problems and so were<br />
going to fight it out in a Superfinal.”
whoever got the furthest would be declared the winner.<br />
And to add to the drama, each of us got to the same<br />
high point as the other and so we went to the semifinal<br />
scores. Ilse and Marijus had flashed more finals<br />
problems than Andrew and I so that was the decider.<br />
That night ended at Ting’s and Times in the student<br />
village of Hatfield. Food was good, company was<br />
great and the prizes were even better! UCT walked<br />
away with the team prize, with Marijus and Duncan<br />
on the podium for the lead comp, and UCT men<br />
dominating the bouldering with Marijus, Andrew and<br />
Duncan placing first, second and third respectively.<br />
I represented my university and hopefully made<br />
them proud with a first place lead and second place<br />
bouldering. All in all, a great tournament! Thanks to<br />
Peter, Ilse, JP, Lydia, Paul and everyone else who helped<br />
make it possible. Candice – your KZN team will have<br />
a tough job to match this year’s standards! Looking<br />
forward to it!<br />
FroM The CliMBerS<br />
individual results Team results<br />
Men sport climbing<br />
1 Henrich Kahl (PUK) UCT<br />
2 Marijus Smigelskis (UCT) PUK<br />
3 Duncan Fraser (UCT) TUKS<br />
Men bouldering<br />
1 Marijus Smigelskis (UCT) UCT<br />
2 Andrew Wood (UCT) PUK<br />
3 Duncan Fraser (UCT) TUKS<br />
Women sport climbing<br />
1 Julia Chen (UCT) TUKS<br />
2 Ilse Labuschagne (TUKS) UCT<br />
3 Brumilda Badenhorst (PUK) WITS<br />
Women bouldering<br />
1 Ilse Labuschagne (TUKS) TUKS<br />
2 Julia Chen (UCT) UCT<br />
3 Emma Boyd (WITS) WITS<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 41
Tafelberg trad<br />
SeBaSTian WyngaarD learns more than he anticipated<br />
42 The University of Cape Town<br />
after the very successful Trad 101 course and the Table Mountain meet<br />
earlier in the year, Tafelberg, South Africa’s premier trad climbing<br />
location, seemed like most suitable next step for our trad climbersin-the-making.<br />
With Joe Mohle once again at the helm, our team of eager<br />
climbers set out in search of fun and adventure in the heart of the Cedarberg.<br />
The experienced trad climbers included Joe, Ant, Diana and Lars while the<br />
newcomers consisted of Phil, Steve, Simon and me.<br />
Thursday 19th Nov: Simon, Steve and I were the first to arrive at the<br />
Driehoek campsite fairly late on Thursday evening. After setting up camp under<br />
the Oak Trees beside the road, we waited for the rest of the team to arrive while<br />
taking in the stellar night sky. Taking into consideration that we had to make an<br />
early start for the hike up to the Spout Cave the next morning, it was not a great<br />
start to the weekend for Joe, Ant and Phil when they arrived just after midnight<br />
at the campsite. To make matters worse, Phil’s vW Polo suffered a punctured<br />
tyre on the drive in. Just two weeks earlier he had punctured a tyre and had yet<br />
to repair it. This left him with one flat tyre and no spare. Diana and Lars pitched<br />
up even later during the night (or morning rather) after everyone else had<br />
finished discussing the dilemma of the flat tyre and turned in.<br />
Friday 20th Nov: We rose early to distribute food and gear and start the<br />
fairly demanding walk in. Not far into the walk, Phil decided to abandon a little<br />
blue tog bag containing a porcelain bowl, extra food and other amenities at<br />
the side of the path since it was quite awkward to carry. Later, Joe would not<br />
let him forget his mistake of leaving behind the much-desired bottle of Cane
within the little blue tog bag. Similarly, Lars later hid a tent on the side of the<br />
path when informed that it would not be necessary. However, the consequences<br />
for this action were negligible since it didn’t involve leaving any booze behind.<br />
We eventually made it up to the base of The Spout, a relatively large formation<br />
right next to the enormous Tafelberg, just in time for lunch. The sandy and<br />
fairly well-sheltered Spout Cave would be our home for the next few days. Once<br />
settled, we organised ourselves into groups and went off to climb.<br />
Ant led Phil and me up Night Cap, a somewhat exposed two pitch grade 17.<br />
Lars accompanied Diana up the same route a few minutes later. The relatively<br />
easy Gully Buttress was Steve and Simon’s first encounter with Tafelberg’s<br />
South Wall. Steve didn’t seem impressed with Joe’s gear placement though, a<br />
single hex placement just a metre before the stance at the top of the 40 metre<br />
climb. Joe later remarked that he “didn’t want you guys to think I’m reckless<br />
or something.” After their first taste of Tafelberg, our newbies decided to play<br />
around on the Original Route (17) and Woodro (18) while the rest of the gang<br />
worked project (grade 27) on the ever conspicuous Pillar Box. Not content with<br />
just following, Phil strayed off with Simon and Steve to test out his brand new<br />
rack on Apathy (15) right before the sunset. We watched Ant and Diana conquer<br />
Black Ice (19) from the Spout Cave as we started to prepare supper.<br />
Sunset from the cave was beautiful, and after the long walk in supper never<br />
tasted better. We ate, drank and promptly turned in for the night. The sound<br />
of Lars snoring could be heard above the sound of the chilly breeze blowing<br />
just beyond the warmth of the cave. Once the noise had died down, we awoke<br />
to terrifying screams from within the dark cave. Apparently, Phil had had a<br />
nightmare where he dreamed he was in a cave. Unfortunately for him, he was.<br />
Saturday 21st Nov: We woke that morning to find that eight more people<br />
had arrived during the night. They consisted of some of the Cape’s best trad<br />
climbers including Douw Steyn and Gosia Lipinski.<br />
FroM The CliMBerS<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 43
44 The University of Cape Town<br />
“Once the noise had died down,<br />
we awoke to terrifying screams<br />
from within the dark cave.”<br />
Simon and Steve asked Joe to take them up Maiden’s Prayer (16) that<br />
morning. Meanwhile, Phil and I had decided to take on the Tafelberg Frontal<br />
on our own. We thought a six pitch grade 13 would be a great opportunity to<br />
test our gear placement skills while actually leading. The guide book had stated<br />
“great route for its grade and a good introduction to the climbing in the area”<br />
after all. Ultimately, however, it would be a test of our fortitude.<br />
We set off at 10h00 in the rather chilly wind after having breakfast and few<br />
sips of water, thinking we would make it back in time for lunch. Unfortunately,<br />
not taking any food or water was the first of many mistakes. The first pitch<br />
was a straight forward climb with lots of jugs onto a ledge where you could<br />
set up a stance. We soon learned, however, that in trad climbing you have<br />
to figure out where the route goes for yourself, there were no bolts to guide<br />
you (or protect you, for that matter). This was evident when the second pitch<br />
began with a down climb to the ledge below, where the stance was supposed<br />
to be built, before the long but easy traverse to the next stance. Getting lost<br />
and awkward down climbing was a recurring theme throughout the climb.<br />
The next two pitches consisted of exciting chimney and crack climbing.<br />
Interestingly enough, at one point I opted to climb inside a large crack instead<br />
of proceeding up the arete on the outside of it. I explained that I had to<br />
remove my helmet and shift my gear to my sides in order to make it through<br />
a relatively tapered section within the crack. It was late in the afternoon and<br />
well past lunchtime when we eventually made it to the end of the fourth pitch.<br />
By now the wind had died down, our excitement had evolved into enjoyment as<br />
we had proudly eased into the routine of placing gear. However, this was to be<br />
the start of the troubles. The enjoyment soon evolved into determination as we<br />
realised how late in the afternoon it actually was.
We started to pick up the pace now in order to be back before sunset. In<br />
our haste, however, we had gone horribly off route. The route guide offered<br />
no assistance, only the annoyingly frustrating realisation that we were lost.<br />
Regardless, we climbed on in the hopes that we would somehow recognise<br />
the descriptions in the route guide. We started on the tenth pitch, hungry and<br />
tired. Phil started leading what seemed to be a grade 15 as the wind began to<br />
pick up again. He set up a stance on a tiny ledge before belaying me who began<br />
to follow after down climbing to retrieve a nut Phil had dropped earlier. Our<br />
determination changed to feelings of anxiety and desperation when the light<br />
started to fade as the sun steadily disappeared on the horizon. On my way up,<br />
I struggled to retrieve a nut in darkness and ultimately had to leave it behind.<br />
The wind was cold and howling to the point where we could barely hear each<br />
other as we stood at the stance under the last pitch. We decided I would climb<br />
the last pitch. I kitted up and ascended into the darkness of the route without a<br />
headlamp. The climbing was simple but tense as I felt out the holds in the dark.<br />
I ascended quickly and set up a belay. Phil followed with cellphone in mouth to<br />
light the rock, collecting gear along the way. We were very happy to make it<br />
up the Frontal and to the top of Tafelberg. Realising we had a decent cellphone<br />
signal Phil, proceeded to call his girlfriend, “Babe, you would not believe what<br />
just happened to me. I almost died!”.<br />
By now everyone at camp began to worry, a rescue plan was put into action. Joe<br />
and Ant went ahead in the dark with food, water and headlamps in search of the<br />
lost climbers. Thinking that they may be spending the night on the Tafelberg rock<br />
face, Steve and Simon followed with sleeping bags. Eventually, the very worried<br />
and agitated team leader found a very relieved Phil and me who had just topped<br />
FroM The CliMBerS<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 45
out. We arrived to applause once we finally made it back to the Spout Cave at<br />
around 22h00 that night. The sad thing is that we still had to cook supper.<br />
During the night, we once again awoke to the screams of Phil. We suspect<br />
this time he dreamt he was still climbing on the Frontal.<br />
Sunday 22nd Nov: After waking fairly late, Simon, Steve and I lumbered<br />
towards the Apathy Wall for a second time to put our leading skills to the test<br />
once more. It hadn’t worked out as we had hoped as we converted the single<br />
pitch (30 metres) grade 15 into two pitches. A fairly experienced onlooker<br />
commented, “Now you can see why they took so long on the Frontal.” Earlier<br />
that morning Ant, Diana and Phil had a successful time with Bat, the highlyrated,<br />
four pitch, classic grade 21 route on the Tafelberg’s Main Wall. In the<br />
afternoon, Diana made easy work of Comes a Time (20) even after running<br />
out the last third of the route (10 metres) when a bit of kit popped out. As she<br />
watched the nut slide down the rope to settle ten metres below her, she said “I<br />
guess that wasn’t a good placement!” She calmly proceeded to finish the climb.<br />
That evening was the most beautiful by far, no wind at all and not a<br />
cloud in sight. The stars shone brightly in the clear night sky. We cooked the<br />
last of our food and proceeded to finish all of the alcohol. This lead to some<br />
interesting conversations. For instance, if ever you have the opportunity to<br />
meet Simon Braun, ask him, “Why do your feet stink?”.<br />
Monday 23rd Nov: We rose early on Monday morning. Joe was off to attempt to<br />
open the project he had been working after successfully opening the slightly easier<br />
variation (grade 25) the day before. In the end, he didn’t manage to ascend and<br />
would have to return someday to open the direct route. Ant lead Simon and Steve<br />
up Tea Bag (15) on the Rooibosch Sector of the Main Wall while Diana easily linked<br />
the five pitch Rooibosch (18) route into a lengthy two pitch climb with Phil and me.<br />
For most, our stay in the Cedarberg had come to an end. Others were heading<br />
off to climb at Rocklands for the coming week. Phil’s car keys in hand, Joe and<br />
Lars were the first to make it back down to the Oak Trees. They hurried off to<br />
Clanwilliam with Phil’s flat tyre in search of a mechanic. For some, my driving on<br />
the way home would eventually be the most frightening part of the weekend.<br />
Conclusion: Overall, it was a great weekend of climbing. The newcomers<br />
had quite a decent amount of exposure to traditional climbing including<br />
leading. The leaders enjoyed taking on the classic routes in the area. There has<br />
been talk of another meet, soon.<br />
46 The University of Cape Town
always bring both of your climbing shoes<br />
Greg bought a brand new pair of climbing shoes for<br />
this trip. Greg also decided he only needed to bring the<br />
left one. *Slow clap for Greg*<br />
always buy tuna in brine<br />
The veg oil may be a little cheaper, but it’s a trap. It gets<br />
everywhere and it stains. Seriously, spend the extra R1.<br />
FroM The CliMBerS<br />
20 things<br />
i learned in rocklands<br />
roBBie FraSer<br />
During November of 2009 Duncan Fraser, Andrew Wood, Greg Bowden,<br />
Julia Chen and myself set out for a 10 day stay in SA’s bouldering mecca.<br />
We had loads of fun, and we might just have learned a few things…<br />
pickettburg is amazing<br />
Much like Disneyland, Pickettburg is a magical place<br />
that lies exactly halfway between Rocklands and Cape<br />
Town. This fantasy land is the home of the elusive<br />
“Buster Burger”, a mythological meal that looks,<br />
smells and tastes like a Spur burger, but costs half<br />
the price. Also available at the Pickettburg garage is<br />
the legendary Real Champs Get Thirsty. A soft drink<br />
guaranteed to increase your sendage by 1.2%!<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 47
Don’t jump in the dam with your sunglasses on<br />
Greg learned this. Unsurprisingly, Greg lost his glasses.<br />
*Slow clap for Greg*<br />
always drink all the champagne on the first night<br />
Because… er… well, I’m sure we had a good reason<br />
for this.<br />
Slacklining is easy<br />
Just focus on a single point in front of you, bend your<br />
knees slightly and walk.<br />
48 The University of Cape Town<br />
Woody can’t slackline<br />
No matter how many times he tried, he always ended<br />
up in the drink. He also has a tendency to throw<br />
boulders at other slackliners.<br />
you can send when you least expect it<br />
I sent my trip project on a throw-away attempt when I<br />
was feeling my weakest. Perseverance always pays off!<br />
It took Duncan six sessions to send his trip project.<br />
Tape your wrists<br />
Not only does it make you look significantly more<br />
hardcore, but it helps avoid a lethal slicing if you want<br />
to climb Dirty Lies.<br />
Crate cake is surprisingly good<br />
Clanwilliam Spar sells a cake in beer crate for R25.<br />
Although it doesn’t look like much, the cake is actually<br />
fantastic. Well, it beats Pronutro and water.<br />
amber Cool is unsurprisingly bad<br />
After our previous success with interestingly named<br />
soft drinks, I thought I’d try the R5 for 2L bargain<br />
of Amber Cool. The stuff is lethal. “It’s so damn hot,<br />
Amber Cool was a bad choice”
Clanwilliam Spar is cool<br />
Literally, besides the obvious fact that it’s a fantastic<br />
place to buy stuff, it’s fully air conditioned. Loitering<br />
for a couple of hours during mid day is highly<br />
recommended.<br />
always have a way down<br />
Duncan fell into this trap many times after climbing<br />
high boulders to take photos. Every time he got himself<br />
stuck, and had to fall and break his legs.<br />
always take photos<br />
On our best day of climbing, when everyone sent their<br />
projects, we got one photo… of Julia’s car… so that we<br />
could get the time…<br />
light trails are fun!<br />
We managed to get some awesome long exposure shots<br />
with headlamps. Lookout! It’s a glowing ninja!<br />
Drop-knees are fun!<br />
For the first time ever I’ve came across a problem<br />
where a drop knee is easiest way to proceed. Collin The<br />
Librarian is one of my all time favourite problems now!<br />
FroM The CliMBerS<br />
rocklands has signal<br />
Up at the fortress, near Desperado, there is a spot<br />
where you can get cellphone reception.<br />
Duncan took the opportunity to secure a job interview.<br />
Sleeping is an art<br />
If you’re going in summer, you’d best be good at<br />
sleeping. During the day it’ll be too hot to do anything<br />
else.<br />
panic room is hard<br />
Easy 7B tick? yes please. Either I’m doing something<br />
terribly wrong or everyone lies about it being easy,<br />
probably the former. Either way, I got shut down.<br />
go in winter<br />
With temperatures in 40s you’ll end up doing most<br />
of your climbing in caves, or at night. Summer is<br />
definitely not Rocklands season.<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 49
one day, while surfing the net, I came across a photo of a small hill<br />
covered in golden granite boulders somewhere in Botswana. I told my<br />
friends about it and suggested we go check it out sometime. Everyone<br />
agreed, but nothing really came of it. This picture lingered in the back of my<br />
mind for several months until the winter of 2009 when the annual intervarsity<br />
climbing competition is held, this year in Pretoria. I realised this would provide<br />
the perfect opportunity to head northwest into Botswana. After doing some<br />
more research, I started convincing my friends that we were all in need of a<br />
bit of adventure and that we should go explore some virgin granite boulders in<br />
a new land. Some were slightly apprehensive about driving to the edge of the<br />
Kalahari looking for rocks guided by a single picture found on the internet, but<br />
in the end, six hung-over UCT students piled into a combi after two hours sleep<br />
and off we went…<br />
50 The University of Cape Town<br />
Botswana bloc<br />
MarijuS ŠMigelSKiS sends it in virgin territory<br />
Ok, let me back up a bit. Our first hurdle came before our trip even began.<br />
Andrew Wood’s parents had kindly allowed us all to abuse their family combi<br />
for the expedition. However, Andrew only realised days before, once most of us<br />
were already in Pretoria, that his passport had expired. Fortunately he was able<br />
to pull some strings in his small farming hometown in northern KZN and got<br />
a temporary passport the morning he drove up to meet us and the rest of the<br />
UCT team for the USSA competition. The competition came and went and soon<br />
it was the prize-giving dinner, followed by partying in Hatfield which some<br />
of us may not remember. We returned to The Barn at around 4am, scratched<br />
the ice off our tents and crawled into bed for a bit of rest before our drive to<br />
Gaborone at 6am.<br />
Hurdle number two… We’re sitting in Pretoria morning traffic, trying to<br />
head West. All of a sudden the combi stops accelerating. Six hours later, we<br />
have a new clutch and we’re speeding along to make it to the border before it<br />
closes for the night. By the way, Chicken Licken is amazing.<br />
Hurdle number three… After negotiating the terrors of Botswana night<br />
time drivers (maybe they don’t produce off switches for headlights brights over<br />
there, and maybe the centre line on the road is a mere indication of where one<br />
should drive, not an opposing lane marker) we arrive in Gaborone at around<br />
midnight. We had very loose and unconfirmed plans to stay at a local climber’s<br />
house for the night along with the vaguest directions ever with not a single<br />
street name. We soon realised why though. After driving several times around<br />
the highway that seems to loop the inner city and not finding a single street<br />
sign, we realised we needed help. We managed to find a police station, where<br />
we were sent to the traffic department (which consisted of a trailer out behind
the jail). After a long debate amongst themselves the police decide it’s easier<br />
to escort us than try to explain how to get there. We follow the traffic cops,<br />
speeding 30km above the limit and breaking just about every rule of the road<br />
I can think of just to keep up with them. It’s 1am, we knock on the door and a<br />
girl answers, she has no idea who we are and no idea about our supposed plan<br />
to be staying there for the night. Fortunately, her housemate had sort of maybe<br />
heard from somewhere that we might possibly be coming so she gives up her<br />
room and all six of us pile in for the night.<br />
The next morning dawns cool and clear and we set off for the village of<br />
Thamaga. Driving into the Kalahari Basin, there isn’t much rock, so things<br />
looked a bit sceptical at first. Soon however, small hills covered in rock start<br />
popping up and eventually we get to the small settlement. We head straight<br />
to the main hill in the centre of town and start exploring. There is a lot of rock<br />
FroM The CliMBerS<br />
“We camped out in the bush, cooked over a fire, climbed virgin rock and<br />
debated physics late into the nights under a starry <strong>African</strong> sky.”<br />
and we don’t know where to begin, so we decide to have some food and make<br />
contact with some local climbers from Gaborone who we had emailed a few<br />
times and that wanted to meet up with us. We find them on the North side of<br />
the main hill and spend the afternoon establishing a few problems. Nothing<br />
too significant, but several fun lines. Some local kids come join in on the fun<br />
and scramble up the slabbier boulders barefoot. We failed to find anything<br />
that really inspired us in Thamaga, although we only saw a tiny fraction of the<br />
boulders there. So we moved on to another village further southwest called<br />
Moshupo. We were all much more impressed with this second area. The hills<br />
were smaller, easier to explore, and rockier. The quality of the granite also<br />
seemed far better, it was less crystallised and more featured. The steep walls<br />
had crimps and the slabs were blank enough for interesting climbing. We<br />
camped out in the bush, cooked over a fire, climbed virgin rock and debated<br />
physics late into the nights under a starry <strong>African</strong> sky.<br />
We decide to focus our efforts on a single outcrop and, as a result, nearly<br />
every problem we opened on Gotau Hill in Moshupo was a classic and still we<br />
left so many boulders untouched. The very first problem we established was<br />
10 metres from where we parked the combi – a perfect series of slaps up an<br />
overhanging arête that we named “Donkey Kong” in honour of the population<br />
of wild donkeys that seemed to easily exceed that of humans in Botswana.<br />
Local story has it, once an aged donkey has been become too decrepit for any<br />
further use, it is simply “traded-in” for a fresh, young one roped in cowboy<br />
style from the wild. We climbed a few more problems at the roadside boulders<br />
as a crowd of kids slowly gathered. Soon we had an audience of about 15<br />
children that burst out laughing every time one of us fell with a dull thud onto<br />
the bouldering pads. They seemed to find our failures highly amusing.<br />
We, and our newly acquired entourage, starting moving up the hillside and<br />
found more great problems. Andrew Wood opened a highly technical arête<br />
which topped out up a huge flake wedged between two house-sized boulders<br />
which he named “Hungry Lion”, while I focused on “Hot Soul Food” and several<br />
other problems including a hanging slab perched between two boulders that<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 51
52 The University of Cape Town<br />
had a campus start. Towards midday the <strong>African</strong> sun starts to get a bit too<br />
hot for climbing, but fortunately I took a stroll around the hillside and found<br />
another section of boulders that were shaded by large trees and offered plenty<br />
new possibilities in much cooler conditions.<br />
Andrew and I set to work on an arête, which had a series of perfect crimps<br />
for the left hand and poor slopers on the corner for the right. We thrashed<br />
around for an hour trying to figure out how to get our left heel-hook to stay on<br />
a small crimp, which happened to also be occupied by our left hand. We tried<br />
to shuffle our pinkie and ring fingers off the crimp to make room for our heel<br />
“I had given up on any hope of success. Enter maple syrup. I took a<br />
mouthful, neat, rested, and stuck the first move.”<br />
but that did not seem to work very well. Eventually we realised the only way<br />
to actually do the move was to heel-hook on your pinkie, then quickly pull your<br />
hand out from under your heel and slap up to the next crimp before gravity<br />
took over. This resulted in a wild cutloose off poor holds, a ravaged pinky and a<br />
split tip, but in the end we persevered and Botswana’s first 7C boulder problem,<br />
“Twin Paradox” was the result.<br />
One line that particularly caught my attention was a short, blank,<br />
overhanging prow. It was nothing spectacular, not more than four meters in<br />
height, but it had everything I liked about climbing (except height of course).<br />
Compression climbing on slopers! There are hardly any holds on the prow and<br />
success on the problem depends entirely on your ability to squeeze negative<br />
sloper pinches hard enough to lift your body off the ground and make a huge<br />
slap up to a poor sloper. From there the next few moves ease off a bit, but are<br />
by no means easy. I was very psyched that there were enough features for the<br />
line to be climbable and it was the last problem I tried on our trip. My first<br />
attempts were not very confidence boosting and I failed miserably to even<br />
pull off the ground. I managed to work out the sequence for the problem for<br />
the first moves onwards, but it seemed unlikely that I would walk away with<br />
a send this trip. I kept trying the first move for another half hour, annoying<br />
all my friends who had had enough and just wanted to go home. They, along<br />
with myself, had given up on any hope of success. Enter maple syrup. I took a<br />
mouthful, neat, rested, and stuck the first move. It nearly felt easy! I held on<br />
extra tight and made sure I did not slip on the rest of the moves and seconds<br />
later, I was on top! We decided to grade the problem 8A, making it the hardest<br />
bit of climbing in Botswana. Sticking to our accidental theme of naming<br />
everything we climbed either about physics or chicken, I named the problem<br />
“Dark Matter”.<br />
With a nice range of problems opened, we were all happy to call our trip a<br />
success and head on back to South Africa. We left Moshupo knowing we will<br />
return one day and I sure would recommend a trip out there for anyone who<br />
wants a different experience in their climbing. At least know you know there is<br />
good rock and tons of potential.<br />
We filmed all of our sends and a clip will soon be posted on<br />
www.cutloose.ca.tt. For more info email marijus3@gmail.com.<br />
Marijus Šmigelskis is sponsored by Evolv, Trango and Blue Water.
Chasing<br />
orange flags<br />
niCK De KlerK tells us why his socks are<br />
no longer white<br />
okay, welcome to the article none of you know exists. This is almost not<br />
so much a Mountain and Ski Club report so much as What-I-Did-In-My-<br />
Spare-Time. This, Ladles and Jelly spoons, is the Orienteering Report!<br />
you all just went “Sorry, what??” didn’t you. Well don’t fret; I’m here to<br />
explain what happens in this dark and dusty nook of the club. At the moment<br />
there is me. That’s it. Hopefully this will serve as a bizarre recruitment scheme<br />
in fact; officially this corner of the club does not exist. It is my aim, nay, my<br />
quest, my divine purpose to reinstate it. Orienteering, in short, is the sport of<br />
“I managed to pull ahead, but with 10m to go completely bailed on the<br />
uneven ground and fell flat on my face…”<br />
anD Then…<br />
running around aimlessly trying to find silly orange flags. Think cross country<br />
running without an actual route. you get a map, you take a compass and you<br />
set about trying to make your way from checkpoint to checkpoint. First one<br />
back wins. Last one back is usually me. Sound simple enough?<br />
This year I was the sole and only person running under the UCT-MSC banner<br />
(although various technicalities meant this was in spirit only, officially I was<br />
forced to be part of Peninsula Orienteering Club. This is a technicality I will<br />
be eradicating this coming year) and did rather well in a few events. Please<br />
indulge me as I recap my year’s highlights. Hopefully by next year this will be a<br />
longer list, with more people’s highlights and more people’s memories.<br />
The year kicked off with the sprint series. These are 3-4 km routes, usually<br />
in semi-urban areas ranging from Tokai Forrest to UCT upper campus. Having<br />
got lost in Tokai, and misread my map around UCT and all manner of things<br />
happening in who knows where else, the final race of the sprint series was<br />
in Bishopscourt, and after a huge bunching at a rather tricky control the race<br />
became a bunch sprint for the line. I managed to pull ahead, but with 10m to<br />
go completely bailed on the uneven ground and fell flat on my face, much to<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 53
54 The University of Cape Town<br />
the mirth of those assembled at the finish. My overall time was good enough<br />
for 6th (my best finish all season).<br />
From the short stuff the races progressed to the colour coded events. Colour<br />
coded means there are different courses depending on your ability or level of<br />
fitness. Not exactly a gym bunny by any stretch I always naïvely sign up for<br />
blue or brown (the longest and toughest courses) and regret my decision soon<br />
after. On my return to Tokai (after a disastrous sprint) my race was naught by<br />
a comedy of errors. I bailed on a collapsed fence, spent 5 minutes directly in<br />
front of a control not-seeing it, and then decided to forgo a path to bundu bash,<br />
and end up running for 10 minutes in knee high fynbos. This I assure you is the<br />
single worst feeling for your legs. To cap a poor day out off, I got a cramp with<br />
200m to go, and then still had a 2km walk back to the train station to negotiate.<br />
The next outing was a fun one. The Western Cape Orienteering Championships<br />
were held just outside Grabouw this year and not only did it transpire I was the<br />
only UCT-MSC runner, I was also the only person in my age group competing for<br />
the sprint race (on Day 1). This it turned out was rather fortunate for me as I pulled<br />
the mother of all blunders and managed to run off 90 degrees off from where I<br />
should have, only to find another piece of land that looked almost exactly like<br />
where I was meant to be. A course I should have completed in 30 minutes took over<br />
an hour. Ouch. But at least I won by default.<br />
Day 2 of the competition was the classic distance. For my age group (under 20)<br />
this was an 8.1 km race, and I was up against a 16 year old (who had competed<br />
with the over 21s the previous day and placed 3rd!). Thankfully no such stuffups<br />
that day apart from one point where I was searching in a field of Anthills for the<br />
correct anthill. Not an easy task. I completed the course in 2hr 10, half an hour<br />
behind my competitor. Still, gold and silver for default prizes is rather nice.<br />
At the Gauteng Championships I had stiffer competition. There were three
of us racing, and with a fairly good race, I managed to pull off 2nd place in the<br />
short course. The long course was fairly crazy (it’s open Highveld, so there is no<br />
shade, a far cry from running around in forests in WC) and there was one point<br />
where I basically had to daredevil down what was almost a cliff face. At speed.<br />
That, surprisingly, was the easy bit; it was running back up that killed me. All<br />
my efforts landed me only 3rd place.<br />
A few other bits of fun running around Grabouw and it was time for the<br />
main event of the year, the South <strong>African</strong> Champs. This year it was held in<br />
Sabie in Mpumalanga. It was a lovely forest setting, with some fairly tricky but<br />
fast routes. Day one saw all but one of the 4 competitors make fairly large stuff<br />
ups on the short course. Alas I was not the one (managing to take a wrong turn<br />
and be fairly far off-track). By the time I dragged myself across the finish line I<br />
was alas only finishing back in 3rd place, 6 minutes off The Wits runner in 2nd.<br />
The next day was the main event, the South <strong>African</strong> Championships Classic<br />
Distance. I managed to take a turn too early and wind up in a river gorge with<br />
sheer cliffs either side of me, and the only option to cut across a 200m wide<br />
thicket. I also managed to get cramp in both calves simultaneously and had to<br />
stop and stretch them out. After 8.1kms only 20 minutes separated the Wits<br />
runner in first place from the last place runner (yes, me). Again a tale of “whatif”<br />
for my fledgling orienteering career.<br />
Okay, so most of my stories involve me getting lost or having my legs ripped<br />
to shreds by Fynbos and thorns. This is possibly the world’s worst marketing<br />
campaign, but for all you outdoor loving runners with a knack for map reading<br />
(and perhaps a slight bent for self mutilation) you now know that you have a<br />
corner of the MSC to call home (or at the very least, have timeshare).<br />
anD Then…<br />
“…there was one point where I<br />
basically had to daredevil down<br />
what was almost a cliff face. At<br />
speed. That, surprisingly, was the<br />
easy bit…”<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 55
Chocolate<br />
56 The University of Cape Town<br />
bananas<br />
KuSh Singh<br />
Ingredients<br />
• One banana<br />
• Chopped up chocolate of your choice<br />
• Foil<br />
Method<br />
Slice banana down the middle but be careful not to cut<br />
the bottom.<br />
Pack it tightly with chocolate.<br />
Seal the banana and wrap in foil.<br />
Place in coals or oven for 10–12 mins and turn. Remove<br />
after another 10–12 mins.<br />
Open foil and scoop out melted chocolatey banana<br />
goodness with a spoon. Warning: it can be hot if just<br />
off the coals or out of the oven.<br />
Suggestion<br />
Try different chocolates e.g. plain chocolate, Top Deck,<br />
caramel. you can also put marshmallows or condensed<br />
milk in with the chocolate.<br />
Adult version (not for under 18s ;)<br />
Once you have stuffed your banana with chocolate,<br />
drizzle some Amarula (or Cape velvet) over it and<br />
seal and follow instructions as before. This alcoholic<br />
banana will be an absolute treat on any camping trip!
Dear Comrades<br />
In the name of taxi driverhood, I salute you! We have worked long and hard<br />
towards this day, and finally a few small victories have been granted us.<br />
FroM The oFFiCialS<br />
Last week we attacked a golf course, since the Official Taxi Book of Law clearly<br />
states that there is to be NO driving whatsoever within a 20-kilometre radius<br />
of our taxi rank unless it is either done by us or involves the payment of<br />
considerable bribes to whoever’s meant to be enforcing the rules. Can you believe<br />
this, comrades? Driving of golf balls being done right on our doorstep? This was<br />
clearly an abomination, and it is fortunate that we managed to stop it before<br />
they got the ball rolling.<br />
Another victory came when we managed to steal fifty toy minibuses from a toy<br />
shop in our area. Apparently the shop owner’s sly intention was to sell these<br />
buses to kids, allowing them to play games where they carried passengers around<br />
--- possibly even pretending to charge them for it and then keeping the money.<br />
Friends, we all know the effect of play on children’s development. Consider<br />
the consequences if parents were to praise this behaviour, thereby positively<br />
reinforcing it. Children would grow up and attempt to start their own taxi<br />
businesses all over the place, and we would be hard-pressed to stem the tide. We<br />
have limited ammunition, after all.<br />
It was suggested in a taxi association meeting yesterday that, instead of fighting<br />
the sale of toy minibuses, it would be more advantageous to our bank accounts in<br />
the long run if we simply forced shop owners to hand out a set of instructions<br />
with each minibus they sell. The instructions should explain to children that<br />
99,85% of all money they earn should go towards our taxi association, and that<br />
they will be killed if they refrain from obeying. According to our consulting<br />
psychologist Dr GivememywigbackorIwillkillyou, threats have a remarkable effect<br />
on the developing human psyche.<br />
And as a last tribute to our sustained efforts to maintain a monopoly, this<br />
morning we succeeded in preventing a group of teenagers from going on a<br />
mountain outing. In typical arrogant Rondebosch fashion, a group of university<br />
students hired a private minibus to transport twenty teenagers from our area to<br />
Silvermine Nature Reserve.<br />
Do you see anything wrong with this picture, dear friends? In the first place<br />
we were not involved; they claim the reason for this is that we are unreliable.<br />
What nonsense! Our association’s tardiness policy is among the most progressive<br />
in the world. It even takes into account Einstein’s Theory of Special Relativity.<br />
According to Einstein time moves more slowly for bodies travelling at great<br />
speeds, and since we always travel at multiple times the speed of light, it is<br />
perfectly understandable that we often seem to arrive later than expected.<br />
In the second place, we object strongly to the idea of some of our kids going<br />
on outings with a bunch of spoilt brats from UCT. What if the children had fun<br />
and decided they wanted to go to university as well? Or even worse, what if<br />
they developed the capacity for leadership and independent thinking? They might<br />
even get rich and leave. This must be avoided at all costs: if we’re going to be<br />
struggling and suffering, everyone else had better be struggling and suffering<br />
with us.<br />
This concludes our weekly newsletter. Please keep an eye out for next week’s<br />
edition, in which we discuss how to annoy motorists, how to avoid paying traffic<br />
fines and how to glue your minibus back together.<br />
In the meantime, happy taxiing.<br />
Lizelle Niit<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 57
Cheese with that w(h)ine?<br />
jp roux tries to remember<br />
everybody knows we only include the cheese to<br />
make it sound polite. This becomes apparent<br />
when an entire corner of the room is filled with<br />
5l boxes of 19-something-or-other Cab-something-orother,<br />
and the sum total of the cheese fits on a regular<br />
household cutting board. Oh well. Line your stomach<br />
before you attend one of our (cheese and) wine parties<br />
then. The 2009 shin dig was held at the water polo<br />
club. What a great venue! Conservative estimates<br />
place attendance at around 100. The cheese was<br />
finished by the first three lucky arrivals. As the night<br />
progressed a strong correlation developed between<br />
the number of empty papsakke and the discarding of<br />
inhibiting pieces of clothing. This culminated in nude<br />
and lewd activities in the pool. There may or may<br />
not have been an intervention from campus security.<br />
Come to think of it, I’m really not in a position to give<br />
58 The University of Cape Town<br />
a factual account of the evening’s proceedings. At<br />
some point I must have insulted Jem or his girlfriend<br />
or his family. This is the only explanation for why he<br />
was chasing me at full speed through the parking lot<br />
in front of Kopano. At some point before this Chris<br />
Laidler left the party. This is the only explanation for<br />
why he was driving through the same parking lot in<br />
the opposite direction in his Land Rover. At one point<br />
it dawned on me that running into the glaring lights<br />
was possibly not advised. There wasn’t much time<br />
to think (not that I had the capacity at that point),<br />
so I played dead as I felt the force of something a<br />
lot bigger and heavier crash into me. There was the<br />
simultaneous dull thud of flesh-and-bone against<br />
inanimate matter. At some point I was flying, and<br />
shortly after I was dying. Then I was laughing<br />
hysterically whilst other people looked on concerned.
On<br />
Spontaneity<br />
jereMy gorven<br />
in Borneo is a cave so vast that a 747 could fly<br />
through it, Dear Cave. Inside, 3 million Wrinklelipped<br />
bats cling to the roof. Below them lies a<br />
100 metre high mound of guano – bat droppings.<br />
The surface of this mound is covered by millions of<br />
cockroaches and all manner of kruipende dinge. These<br />
creatures have no eyes and no ears. They are confined<br />
to the writhing heap and the pitch black, to live off<br />
guano for the rest of their days.<br />
On the other side of the world, and on the<br />
opposite side of the spectrum, students with limitless<br />
possibilities arrive in the beautiful city of Cape Town<br />
for their first year at UCT.<br />
One of the many topics which spur endless debate<br />
around the campfire, is that of destiny. I don’t believe in<br />
destiny. At UCT, the most powerful ability I gained, the<br />
most precious gift I received was that of spontaneity.<br />
As the shock of cold water pulsed through me<br />
I am drowned in silence. I revel for a split second<br />
in the feeling of life which the coldness brings. My<br />
senses heightened, my adrenaline pumping; the<br />
moment is pure, unadulterated ecstasy. Opening my<br />
eyes in the clear waters of the Hottentots Holland, I<br />
breaststroke to the other side of Bumslide pool where<br />
my companions stand smiling and chatting against<br />
the lush green Fynbos backdrop of the kloof. This was<br />
my first great adventure with the MSC, my first plunge<br />
and my first exhilaration.<br />
From then on, each spontaneous moment delivered<br />
a new experience and a new adventure. Spontaneity<br />
spawned spontaneity, and time after time we had our<br />
worlds rocked. From hanging off a crag in Montague, to<br />
waking up in Hoare Hut for a steaming breakfast of oats,<br />
a fiery display of light and colour glinting off the frozen<br />
slopes of Waaihoek as the dawn breaks. All of a sudden<br />
I found myself surrounded by a crew which I hope to<br />
keep forever. These guys were amped for anything. We<br />
were all addicted to thrilling adventures together, and<br />
it was their company which made my four years at UCT<br />
anD Then…<br />
worth fifty anywhere else. We soon began to wander,<br />
from the rusty mountains of the Cederberg to the<br />
mighty escarpment of the Ukahlamba Darkensburg in<br />
KZN. Soon there was talk of an expedition to climb the<br />
Rwenzoris in East Africa. We finally knew that life had<br />
no limits and that any dream could become a reality. A<br />
group of 7 bumped along a small dirt road in Uganda,<br />
slowly winding through coffee plantations toward the<br />
base of the mighty Mt Stanley.<br />
UCT is over now. What has come of it all? What<br />
does one leave with after all of this adventure, after<br />
the crazy-adorable people are just a memory, after<br />
the fun is captured in pictures and lives on only in<br />
the whistling of the old wind as it gushes over point<br />
high and down the steep grassy triangle. What of the<br />
stunning beauty which still takes my breath away<br />
whenever I flip through an album, and which once<br />
made me feel as though I had glimpsed the very brush<br />
strokes of God in Her most glorious act of creation.<br />
It kills me to know that these moments are finite,<br />
that these people will grow and disperse to far away<br />
places. I wish that I could live these memories forever,<br />
live amongst these people until my legs fail me, and<br />
then still I’ll implore them to throw me into that cold<br />
pool, deep in the Hottentots Holland. Alas, all will<br />
eventually fade. This is regret.<br />
This regret brings a lesson. It is spontaneity. I<br />
believe this holds the secret to how we define our<br />
own lives. you were born with this gift. Embrace it as<br />
though the world is spinning through space and time<br />
at a billion miles an hour. Do justice to the opportunity<br />
of life with a dazzling array of experiences, people,<br />
love, passion, sounds, smells and emotions. Thank you<br />
MSCers, you rock my world!<br />
Mountain & Ski Club 2009 59
Notes from the Waaihoek Time Capsule, some from<br />
as far back as the 1980s. See anyone you know?<br />
60 The University of Cape Town
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