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4 - DECKS AWASH<br />

SPECIAL PROJECTS - WORK ORIENTATION PROGRAMS<br />

HELPING PEOPLE IN CHOOSING AND FINDING JOBS<br />

Canada Employment and the Division <strong>of</strong> Adult and Continuing Education<br />

together, <strong>of</strong>ter a variety <strong>of</strong> work orientation programs<br />

designed to help unemployed adults to become employed.<br />

The target groups include re-entry women, youth, sole-support<br />

mothers, and other unemployed adults. Whatever the background<br />

<strong>of</strong> the individual is, the courses have one thing in common - they<br />

are all geared to help people find their job in a competitive work<br />

force.<br />

The sessions,<strong>of</strong>fered full-time in a workshop setting,focus on topics<br />

such as:<br />

1. The interests, skills, etc., <strong>of</strong> the individual and relating these<br />

to careers.<br />

2. The mechanics <strong>of</strong> a well-planned job search, including resume<br />

writing and interview practice .<br />

3. Development <strong>of</strong> the self-confidence that impresses prospective<br />

employers, and raises positive feelings about oneself.<br />

More information can be obtained from Employment Centers, or<br />

at the 51. John's course site at 754-2770.


history<br />

St. Lawrence<br />

n her book, NOles toward a history <strong>of</strong> St. Lawrence<br />

I Ena Farrell Edwards states, "St. Lawrence is popularly<br />

believed to have been named by a group <strong>of</strong> shipwrecked<br />

sailors from Sir Humphrey Gilbert's ship, the<br />

Deljght. which went down <strong>of</strong>f Sable Island in 1583."The<br />

ship's master, Richard Clarke. left an account <strong>of</strong> their<br />

arrival at a place which they named St. Lawrence, which<br />

is believed to have beentoday 's Little St. Lawrence. Mrs .<br />

Edwards points out that Clarke is said to have returned<br />

to <strong>Newfoundland</strong> in later years , and there has been a family<br />

<strong>of</strong> Clarkes in Little 51. Lawrence for a number <strong>of</strong><br />

generations.<br />

That is not , however, the only theory. Mrs . Edwards<br />

also mentions that an essay by H.W.LeMessurier in 1910<br />

disputes this theory , claiming that 51. Lawrence was<br />

probably named by a Jerseyman who kept a room at the<br />

harbor. The community may also have been named by<br />

the Frenchas various earl)' French maps show 51. Laurent.<br />

It is also possible that the C. Lorenzo on the 1559-61<br />

map ot "Terra Nova" by Varrese at the Vatican in Rome<br />

is St. Lawrence. John Dee's map <strong>of</strong> 1578-80 also shows<br />

S. Laurens.<br />

It is clear, however, that there were people living at<br />

St. Lawrence as early as 1793 for the Reverend Evans<br />

reports that year was a bad one for the inshore fishery,<br />

mentioning that fishermen at 51. Lawrence caught only<br />

60 quintals each. St. Lawrence is also mentioned by<br />

Governor Gower in 1807who reported there were "considerable"<br />

merchants and planters settled and carrying<br />

on a fishery at Great St. Lawrence.<br />

A report dated 1824notes a school at 51.Lawrence dating<br />

from 1817. There were 30 pupils in the charge or wtl­<br />

Ham Tuck whose salary was 15 pounds sterling annually.<br />

The census <strong>of</strong> 1836, however, makes no mention <strong>of</strong><br />

a school in the community. At that time there were 263<br />

residents in 25 houses . The census reports there were<br />

23 Protestant Episcopalians, 31 Protestant Dissenters<br />

and 178 Roman Catholics in the community.<br />

By 1845 the population had jumped to 396. There were<br />

120 flshennen and T1boats operating out <strong>of</strong> St. Lawrence.<br />

Roman Catholics dominated the Church <strong>of</strong> England by<br />

R.C. Church & Presbytery, 1948. (Photo courtesy Ena Fat·<br />

relt Edwards)<br />

OECKS AWASH - 5<br />

Some <strong>of</strong> the SUrvIvors - U.S. Sailors at graveside <strong>of</strong> leltow<br />

shipmates. (Photo courtesy Ena Farrell Edwards)<br />

325to 71. And there was once again a school in the commtmity<br />

with 65 pupils in attendance.<br />

Church records show that Father Cullan established<br />

the Roman Catholic parish <strong>of</strong> St. Thomas Aquinas at St.<br />

Lawrence in 1849 which, by 1857 had 390 parishioners.<br />

There were also 110 Church <strong>of</strong> England members and<br />

one Wesleyan. By this time 51. Matthew's Church <strong>of</strong> England<br />

church had been built by Rev. John Cyrus A.<br />

Gatherole who had served the people <strong>of</strong> 51. Lawrence<br />

from the mission at Burin as early as 1847. The school<br />

now had 116students registered. The 132 fishermen now<br />

were involved in the seal fishery as well as the cod fishery<br />

as there were three sealing vessels with 12 crew<br />

members between them. There were 100boats involved<br />

in the cod fishery and 7630 quintals <strong>of</strong> cod were cured<br />

the previous year. There also were three merchants and<br />

traders listed.<br />

The first business establishment, however, was begun<br />

in 1860 by Celestine and Gregory Giovannini who immigrated<br />

from Lucca, Italy. Their store sold dry goods,<br />

food stuffs, and fishing gear which arrived by coastal<br />

boat from Prince Edward Island. They brought fish from<br />

local fishermen in return for goods.<br />

In 1871 Sacred Heart Convent was opened by the Sisters<br />

<strong>of</strong> Mercy. They opened their first school that same<br />

year in a fishing shed with 95 pupils.<br />

By 1898 there was a whaling factory at Little 51.<br />

Lawrence. It was owned by an American firm and ron<br />

by Captain Lemarkwell, The factory employed 50-60men<br />

and had two vessels, each with a crew <strong>of</strong> 10 Norwegians.<br />

The factory workers received 17t.2t per hour.<br />

In the 189()s.,1bomas FarreU arrived in 51. Lawrence<br />

\\ith twobanking schooners: The"Ronald H and the Klondike<br />

. Each had a crew <strong>of</strong> 20 with 10 dories.<br />

Cod traps and decked sailing skiffs were introduced<br />

in St. Lawrence around 1900and trawl lines soon Iollowed;<br />

inshore fishermen began fIShing up to 10 miles<br />

<strong>of</strong>f the coast. The trap fishery was operated by three<br />

finns in the early 19005: Thomas Farrell and Sons, A.A.<br />

Giovannini, and Pike and Bradley.<br />

In 1915 there was a very poor <strong>of</strong>fshore catch and the<br />

ba.. fIShery ceased in 51. Lawrencebut the inshore fishery<br />

remained strong until the tidal wave <strong>of</strong> 1929.111e<br />

wave struck on November 18th. 'Thefirst sign was the


6 _ DECKS AWASH<br />

earth shaking from the earthquake on the Grand Banks.<br />

Then at 8 p.m. all the water drained from the harbor and<br />

then the first wave, a wall <strong>of</strong> water 30 feet high struck.<br />

As it receded it met a second wave and struck again with<br />

even greater force to be followed by a third. Fishing<br />

flakes. stages and stores were washed into the harbor,<br />

homes were destroyed and hundreds <strong>of</strong> quintals <strong>of</strong> fish<br />

were ruined. 1bomas Farrell and Sons lost a whole shipment<br />

<strong>of</strong> fish and A.A. Giovannini had his large store<br />

washed out into the harbor. The marine life and vegetation<br />

which provided food for fish was destroyed and<br />

it was many years before fishing returned to normal in<br />

S1. Lawrence.<br />

Although the mine opened in 1933, in 1935there were<br />

57 dories. 17 motor dories and 22 motor boats in S1.<br />

Lawrence. Gear included 72 nets, 10 cod traps, three<br />

salmon nets, 60 herring nets, 16 caplin seines. Most <strong>of</strong><br />

the fishermen ho.....ever. were miners who fished parttime<br />

and there were very few full-time fishermen. 'There<br />

was one liver factory still in operation. 1bere were three<br />

schools: two Roman Catholic. one Church <strong>of</strong> England.<br />

Each denominatioo had a church although there was just<br />

one clergyman.<br />

The house that Gregory Giovannini built.<br />

Mining at St. Lawrence<br />

he existence <strong>of</strong> mineral deposits in the<br />

T St. Lawrence region was first known during the last<br />

century. but little more than exploratory work was performed.<br />

Veins <strong>of</strong> the mineral fluorspar were worked at<br />

Mine Cove vein and at Chambers Cove prior to 187.Bethlehem<br />

Steel did exploratory work in 1910. Surveying .....ork<br />

continued during the early part <strong>of</strong> the century and W.H.<br />

Taylor <strong>of</strong> $1. John's acquired mineral rights to a fluorspar<br />

vein known as Black Duck.<br />

In 1929, Taylor embarked for New York and managed<br />

to sell the rights for little more than his expenses to W.E.<br />

Seibert. an accountant with the Corporation Trust Co.<br />

Ltd. <strong>of</strong> New York. WhenSeibert arrived in S1.Lawrence<br />

in 1932with three partners to view his mineral claims,<br />

85 per cent <strong>of</strong> the population was on relief receiving 6t<br />

a day. He said the merchants and the local priest, Father<br />

Fish drying on the Farrell premises during the 3Os. (Photo<br />

courtesy f:na Farrell Edwards)<br />

1be mines ensuredcontinued grow..th in S1. Lawrence<br />

over the next three decades. In 1951there were 1451peopie.<br />

which had jumped to 2095 by 1961. In 1969the R0man<br />

Catholic and Anglican school systems were<br />

integrated to improve teacher services and accommodations<br />

for the students.<br />

By 1971 the population had grown to 2173, but 1976<br />

showed the last increase over the previous census period<br />

when the population stood at 2258. TIle Alcan mine<br />

closed in 1978and some <strong>of</strong> the miners returned to fishing<br />

to earn a living. Today there are approximately 20<br />

inshore fishermen operating out <strong>of</strong> S1.Lawrence. mostly<br />

in medium-sized boats. They sell their catch fresh to'<br />

the Fishery Products International plant which was completed<br />

in 1979 to help alleviate some <strong>of</strong> the unemployment<br />

created when the mine closed. Some did move<br />

away after the mine closed and in 1981 S1. Lawrence<br />

registered its first decrease in population when it<br />

dropped to 2012. Residents enjoy the services <strong>of</strong> a community<br />

centre, public library and the U.S. <strong>Memorial</strong><br />

Hospital which was built by the United States government<br />

in thanks to the people <strong>of</strong> Lawn and St. Lawrence<br />

fo their help in rescuing and caring for the men who were<br />

shipwrecked on the USS Truxton at Chamber's Cove and<br />

the USS Pollux at Lawn Point in February 1942. While<br />

168 were rescued, 204 men lost their lives. m<br />

Thome, pleaded with him to start an industry. Seibert<br />

hired six prospectors and discovered several fluorspar<br />

:veins. Seibert then <strong>of</strong>fered to supply mining equipment<br />

If the men <strong>of</strong> S1.Lawrence would mine and handpick the<br />

ore to market specifications without pay until the first<br />

shipment <strong>of</strong> ore had been sold. The men agreed and the<br />

local merchants staked the miners until they were paid.<br />

Tbe St. Lawrence Corporation <strong>of</strong> <strong>Newfoundland</strong> was<br />

formed - known locally as the Co-operation.<br />

Seibert returned to New York and. remortgaged his<br />

houseto raise"...somewhere between five and. ten thousand<br />

dollars". He then purchased used mining equipment<br />

from a bankrupt contractor and. shipped it to S1.<br />

Lawrence in the spring <strong>of</strong> 1933. Using sleds. the men<br />

moved the equipment to the Black Duck site, then with<br />

no previous mining experience, built an ore mill and set


about mining with drills and picks .<br />

It tooka year to mine and handpick the first 2,000tons<br />

and ship it to the Dominion Steel and Coal Corporation's<br />

plant at Sydney, Nova Scotia. The shipment sold for $12<br />

a ton, and the men were paid at the rate <strong>of</strong> IS( an hour<br />

for their year's work.<br />

The speculative nature <strong>of</strong> Black Duck, the lack <strong>of</strong><br />

money aDd equipment, and the need to make a quick<br />

return was forced by circumstnaces upon the St.<br />

Lawrence Corporation. The mine was started using the<br />

relatively inexpensive epee-cut method rather than sinking<br />

shafts. The overburden


casioned by the development <strong>of</strong> mining in the area<br />

between Lawn and St. Lawrence.<br />

In the early 1950sthe government built a fish plant at<br />

Lawn for approximately $80,000. It was reported that it<br />

was later turned over to the Lawn Co-operative that<br />

operated the plant sporadically, mostly as a filleting<br />

plant, which sold to other plants in the area. It then lay<br />

idle for some years.<br />

The Lawn area seemsto have been the scene<strong>of</strong> large,<br />

inshore cod catches. In 1967a resident <strong>of</strong> Lawn. Robert<br />

Lambe, won the Centennial medal for bringing in a<br />

record catch <strong>of</strong> 1.5 million pounds with a trapcrew <strong>of</strong> 5.<br />

In 1969, Lawn. mayor Fred Cox and deputy mayor<br />

Harold Fitzpatrick, travelled to St. John 's to persuade<br />

government to turn the town's unused fish plant into an<br />

abattoir and mea t processing plant. It was hopedthat<br />

the new operation would employ 25 to 30 people and be<br />

an ootlet for cattle from the nearby Flying L Ranch. The<br />

idea was to export both grain-fed and commercial grade<br />

beef in a chilled rather than frozen slate to other parts<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Island<br />

In 1969Lawn was also designated as a Major Collection<br />

Centre under the terms <strong>of</strong> the Household Resettlement<br />

Program. This resulted from a recently completed<br />

townplan which gave the town "access to unlimited land<br />

expansion and development through the valley". This<br />

was after a previous town plan drawn up four years earlier<br />

had indicated there was insufficient land for development.<br />

The significance <strong>of</strong> the change was that anybody<br />

settling at Lawn was eligible for a resettlement grant,<br />

but not eligible for the supplementary allowance paid<br />

to people who went to Major Growth Centressuch as Fortune<br />

and St. Lawrence.<br />

Mayor Cox commented, "This action is the first real<br />

encouragement we have received for the future develop-<br />

Lord's Cove<br />

he first mention <strong>of</strong> Lord's Cove is the censusdl881.<br />

T The population was 83, 21 Church <strong>of</strong> England members<br />

and 62 Roman Catholics. None <strong>of</strong> the 24 children<br />

attended school. There were 50 Iisbermen with 19 boats,<br />

28 nets and one trap, catching 510 quintals <strong>of</strong> cod and<br />

4 barrels <strong>of</strong> salmon for a total value <strong>of</strong> 520 pounds sterling.<br />

The people also kept cattle, milch cows and sheep<br />

with 85 acres <strong>of</strong> land under cultivation.<br />

East Head, Lawn<br />

ment <strong>of</strong> the community."<br />

In 1980 the Roman Catholic School Board decided to<br />

phase out the school at Lawn. It appears that when St.<br />

Lawrence applied for a DREE grant to build its new<br />

school, it had included the student population <strong>of</strong> Lawn<br />

in its plans without consulting parents. With the completion<br />

<strong>of</strong> the newlarger school the Board could nolonger<br />

afford the upkeep <strong>of</strong> the Lawn School and had decided<br />

to amalgamate it with the 51.Lawrence school.<br />

Parents <strong>of</strong> the 150 Lawn children appealed to the<br />

courts, but Mr. Justice Noel, while being sympathetic<br />

to the parents' case, said the court had no right to interfere.<br />

The editor <strong>of</strong> the Daily News, having discovered<br />

that the government had no jurisdiction in the case<br />

either, thought it incredible that the church was the only<br />

bodyto which a schoolboard decision could be appealed.<br />

The dispute was finally settled mid-September 1980<br />

when the parents agreed to the busing <strong>of</strong> grades 9 to 11<br />

to St. Lawrence for the remainder <strong>of</strong> the year until funds<br />

could be obtained to upgrade Lawn High School .<br />

In 1976the population <strong>of</strong> Lawn stood at 1,025,and most<br />

recently in 1981 it was recorded as 999. II<br />

By 1891the population had dropped to 80. There was<br />

one merchant registered along with 42 Itsbermen. By<br />

now 21 women were listed as curing cod fish. TIle total<br />

value <strong>of</strong> aU fIsh products for the previous year was $t593.<br />

including 402quintals <strong>of</strong> cod and the production from a<br />

lobster factory. There were 13 students attending school,<br />

but no record <strong>of</strong> a school.<br />

The population continued to grow and had reached 120


Lord's Cove<br />

by 1901.A second merchant had moved into the community<br />

which also had 2 <strong>of</strong>fice/shop workers, two farmers,<br />

':rl fishermen and 32 women curing fish. There were 25<br />

boats, 54 nets, two traps and 1610quintals <strong>of</strong> cod landed<br />

for a total value <strong>of</strong> $5960. There was no menlion <strong>of</strong> the<br />

lobster factory <strong>of</strong> the previous decade. A school,<br />

however, now is mentioned with 34 students.<br />

In 1911the population had almost doubled its original<br />

number reaching 153. Roman Catholic remained the<br />

dominant religion with only 13 members <strong>of</strong> the Church<br />

<strong>of</strong> England. There was just one farmer but there were<br />

40 fishermen with 35 boats, 1031nets and lines and three<br />

traps. The total catch was 1234quintals <strong>of</strong> cod.<br />

By 1921the number <strong>of</strong> members <strong>of</strong> the Church <strong>of</strong> England<br />

had dropped to two, with 206 Roman Catholics who<br />

now had their own church and school with 33 students.<br />

The census makes no mention <strong>of</strong> merchants or farmers<br />

and the number <strong>of</strong> fishermen had increased to 54 with<br />

36women curing fish. The total value <strong>of</strong> aU fish products<br />

was $23,101.There were 46 boats and 17 fishing rooms.<br />

In 1936the population had reached 'lZl people. F ishermen<br />

now also caught herring and caplin in add ilion to<br />

cod. But the amount <strong>of</strong> gear had declined drastically.<br />

There were only nine nets and 4 cod traps, along with<br />

9 herring nets and two caplin seines. There were a total<br />

<strong>of</strong> 51 small boats in Lord's Cove but it is possible that<br />

Taylor 's Bay<br />

aylor 's Bay is first mentioned in the Census <strong>of</strong><br />

T 1881.At that lime it had a population <strong>of</strong> 21, all <strong>of</strong><br />

whom were members <strong>of</strong> the Church <strong>of</strong> England. There<br />

were four children under the age <strong>of</strong> 15 but they had no<br />

access to formal schooling. The community had 17<br />

fishermen who owned six boats and 13nets. They landed<br />

212 quintals <strong>of</strong> cod, one barrel each <strong>of</strong> salmon and<br />

caplin the previous year which had a total value <strong>of</strong> 212<br />

pounds sterling. 'Thepeople also kept 14cattle, 14milch<br />

CO'o'o'S, 17sheepand one horse. 1bere were 2Sacres <strong>of</strong> land<br />

under cultivation.<br />

By 1891, the population had jumped to 36, and one<br />

Methodist had disturbed the homogeneous nature <strong>of</strong> the<br />

settlement's religious make-up. Although no school was<br />

reported, seven children wereattending school. TIle total<br />

value <strong>of</strong> fish landed was $1176and the number <strong>of</strong><br />

most were part-time fishermen who worked in the mine<br />

at 51. Lawrence. The 1929tidal wave had also ruined the<br />

fishery in the area and it was not until the next decade<br />

that the fish returned to their former abundance. The<br />

fishery continued to decline, and by 1945there were only<br />

35 boats although the community had grown to 323<br />

people.<br />

In 1956the population had reached 361, and in 1961it<br />

had risen to 391. The last year that growth was<br />

registered, however, was 1966when the population was<br />

418.In 1971the populalion showed its first decline to 398<br />

and although it rose to 409 in 1976,the 1981population<br />

dropped once again to 384. Today H.B. Dawe operates<br />

a saltfish processing plant in Lord's Cove. The plant was<br />

originally a fresh fish operation established by Fortune<br />

Fisheries in the mid-tsrcs. I!<br />

Lord's Cove<br />

flshennen had increased to 'Z1.There were also 11women<br />

curing fish.<br />

In 1901there were 10Salvatioo Army members among<br />

the 59 inhabitants. One farmer was reported that year<br />

but the number ci fishermen had dropped to 13 including<br />

one bank fisherman but the total value <strong>of</strong> all fish<br />

products landed in 1900was $1442. By this time there was<br />

also a school in the community with 18<strong>of</strong> the 20children<br />

. under the age <strong>of</strong> 15in attendance during some period <strong>of</strong><br />

the previous 12 months.<br />

Ten years later the Salvationists had left Taylor's Bay<br />

while one Roman Catholic had moved in with a total<br />

population <strong>of</strong> 58 - one fewer than 10 years before. The<br />

Church <strong>of</strong> England school had one female teacher with<br />

22PJpiJs in her charge. Residents occupied10houses and<br />

had built 18 barns and nine fishing rooms. There were


18"s hore" fisherme n who reported owning 12boats , 172<br />

nets and lines , a nd two traps, catching 505 quintals <strong>of</strong><br />

cod . Agricultural produce was valued at $366.<br />

In 1921the populationwas up to 82, including 75Church<br />

<strong>of</strong> England members, one Roma n Catholic, four Salva ­<br />

tionists and two Methodists . The number <strong>of</strong> fishermen<br />

had increa sed to 23 and 15 women cured fiSh. 1be total<br />

value <strong>of</strong> fish products landed reached an all-lime high<br />

<strong>of</strong> $6381 .<br />

By 1935motors had been introdu ced with eight <strong>of</strong> the<br />

12dories motorized . In addition , there was also one larger<br />

motor boat in use . The fishermen, besides cod, now<br />

also caught salmon, herring and caplin. The population<br />

had reached 104.<br />

By 1945the population had reached its highest point<br />

at 105residents. Fishing continued to be important to<br />

the community which registered 15dories , six cod nets ,<br />

one cod trap, five salmon nets, one caplin seine and nine<br />

fishing rooms in use at Taylor's Bay at that time.<br />

Today Taylor 's Bay has lost most <strong>of</strong> its residents. The<br />

community is not listed separately in the Census . There<br />

now are fewer than 10housesinhabited and the residents<br />

<strong>of</strong> today still keep their kitchen gardens as did their forefathers.<br />

n<br />

Point au Gaul<br />

oint au Gaul appears at various times from 1881as<br />

P Point aux Gaul and Point-au-Gaul. The first listing<br />

in 1881shows a total <strong>of</strong> 104people , 63 members <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Church <strong>of</strong> England and 41 Roman Catholics. The community<br />

had 55fishermen engaged in the cod and salmon<br />

fishery . They landed 970 quintals <strong>of</strong> cod and nine bar ­<br />

rels <strong>of</strong> salmon. The total value <strong>of</strong> fish products was 975<br />

pounds sterling. None <strong>of</strong> the 33children under the age <strong>of</strong><br />

15 attended school. There were 62 acres <strong>of</strong> improved<br />

land , most <strong>of</strong> which served as pasture for 'J:1 cattle, 38<br />

milch cows, 2 horses and 53 sheep.<br />

Ten years later the population had risen to 120. The<br />

Church <strong>of</strong> England still dominated with 91 followers .<br />

'Ibere were 70fishermen in thecommunity with 31worn-<br />

Tay\<strong>of</strong>'s Bay<br />

DECKS AWASH - 15<br />

en curing fish . A sc hool had been built and boasted 23<br />

students. By this time a merchant had also set up<br />

business.<br />

The number <strong>of</strong> fishermen declined over the next<br />

to-year period and in 1901there were only 43fiShermen<br />

with 41women curing fish. In spite <strong>of</strong> ttle drop in numbers<br />

the men increased both their catch <strong>of</strong> cod and incomes;<br />

1292quintals <strong>of</strong> cod (up from 946) and three<br />

barrels <strong>of</strong> salmon for a total <strong>of</strong> $5426 (up from $3822).<br />

Point au Gaul now had one Wesleyan and 23Salvationists<br />

lnaddition to 35 Roman Catholics and 99 Church <strong>of</strong> England<br />

members.<br />

The lone Wesleyan must have either converted to<br />

another religion or moved for by 1911there was no Wes-


16 - DECKS AWASH<br />

leyan at Point au Gaul. All other denominations estab­<br />

Iished in the community had increased their numbers:<br />

60 Roman Catholics,:n Salvationists, and 129Church <strong>of</strong><br />

England members for a total population <strong>of</strong> 226. The<br />

Church <strong>of</strong> England school had a female teacher with 28<br />

students in her charge. The place <strong>of</strong> worship, however,<br />

was that <strong>of</strong> the Salvation Army which had a capacity <strong>of</strong><br />

60 people . There were 55 fishermen with 52 boats involved<br />

in the Nev.1oundJand "shore " fishery and gear<br />

included 508 nets and lines, and nine cod traps. The total<br />

codcatch was 2494quintals. The community nov.'also<br />

had one government employee and one <strong>of</strong>fice/shop<br />

worker. .<br />

By 1921the local residents had built a Church <strong>of</strong> England<br />

parish haD but the only place <strong>of</strong> worship listed was<br />

that <strong>of</strong> the Salvation Army which was listed in 1911.<br />

'There was also a Loyal OrangeAssociation (LOA) Hall.<br />

TIle total value <strong>of</strong> fIShproducts landed was $13.328with<br />

Lamaline<br />

t has been suggested that the name Lamaline<br />

I comes from La Maligne meaning malignant. evil. or<br />

wicked . This might refer to the many treacherousshoals<br />

and smaD islands <strong>of</strong>f the harbor which made navigation<br />

difficult for early sailors.<br />

The 1836censuscredits LamaJine with 263inhabitants<br />

but only 36dwelling places which suggests that the community<br />

was seasonally inhabited. Unlike nearby Lawn,<br />

the majority <strong>of</strong> inhabitants were Church <strong>of</strong> England<br />

rather than Roman Catholic. although the first Church<br />

<strong>of</strong> England priest did not arrive until 1849.<br />

In 1845,the population had grown to 335people housed<br />

in 61 dwellings. One hundred and nineteen fishermen<br />

owned 68 boats showing fishing to be the dominant occupation.<br />

The flat, grassy lands surrounding Lamaline<br />

supported 210cows and 34horses while 220acres <strong>of</strong> land<br />

were under cultivation.<br />

By 1857 the population was 524, there were two<br />

churches, two schools, and three merchants operating<br />

in Lamaline. In 1869the population was 680, in 1874it<br />

jumped to 913, then declined to 737 in 1881, and 649 in<br />

1891-probably reflecting a decline in the fishery at that<br />

time.<br />

On 13September 1878,Anastasia Lundrigan was born<br />

to James and Mary Cousins on Allan's Island. One<br />

hundred years later she was still alive in Lamaline. She<br />

recalled, "We were very independent people and made<br />

all our own clothes. carded and spun the wool for our<br />

knitting, and reared our ownvegetables as well as made<br />

58 fishermen, and 38women who cured fish. There were<br />

now two teachers with 58students; 11children <strong>of</strong> school<br />

age did nol attend school. The population had reached<br />

239.<br />

The population showed an increase for the last time<br />

in 1935with 243 residents. There were 37dories and one<br />

motor boat used in the shore fishery and the fishermen<br />

now had added herring and caplin to their catch <strong>of</strong> cod<br />

and salmon.<br />

The population and the fishery both declined over the<br />

next 10years and in 1945there were 221people. none <strong>of</strong><br />

whcm were <strong>of</strong>ficially registered as fishennen. There was<br />

also no gear reported, the value<strong>of</strong> fishing gear was listed<br />

as a meagre $20 and only one dory was registered.<br />

TIle community <strong>of</strong> Point au Gaul was incorporated in<br />

1966. The population has continued to decline during the<br />

subsequent decades and was 140 in 1981. I!<br />

Walter Foote<br />

our own fish." She added that people seemed closer and<br />

seemed to help each other more.<br />

An example <strong>of</strong> this took place in 1885.Lamaline residents<br />

John Walters, 19,and John Hepditch. 18.shipped<br />

with Captain Bonnell in his 6O-tonschooner to Fortune<br />

Bay to fish for herring . Leaving Harbour Breton for<br />

Lamaline on Christmas Eve, they ran into a storm and<br />

were wrecked on Little Green Island just east <strong>of</strong> St.<br />

Pierre. Captain Bonnell was drowned but the boys survived<br />

and lived for a week beneath an upturned dory on<br />

the beach. They managed to ferry themselves and the<br />

body <strong>of</strong> the dead captain in the dory back to Lones and<br />

thence to Lamaline.<br />

The population, which in 1881had been 7:rl. continued<br />

to drop to 424in 1001. Then by 1911the trend had reversed<br />

for 513 inhabitants were recorded that year increasing<br />

to 738in 1921.This was despite the effects <strong>of</strong> World War 1.<br />

Captain B.C. Hooper, a Lamaline resident born in 1892<br />

spent the war years in an unusual way. He had gone in


1916to Halifax and signed on the Pearce. a three-masted<br />

schooner bound with sailfish for Brazil. The Pearce was<br />

apprehended by the German raider Seeadler commanded<br />

by Count von Luckner known as the "Sea Devil " .<br />

Hooper 's vessel was sunk and he was captured.<br />

Prisoners were required to work, but they were also<br />

trained. educated, and paid. Hooper said he learned a<br />

great deal from his captors. Finally repatriated at Rio<br />

de Janeiro he ultimately joined the Dominion Steel and<br />

Coal Corp. alSydney, N.S. and rose to be marinesuperintendent<br />

before retiring in 1961.<br />

The tidal wave <strong>of</strong> 18November 1929that swept the Burin<br />

Peninsula, inflicted its share <strong>of</strong> damage upon Lamaline.<br />

Fonner mayor and Justice <strong>of</strong> the Peace Walter<br />

Footewas 18at the time, but he remembers the incident<br />

well. Walter felt an earth tremor while walking home .<br />

Two hours later, at 6:45 p.m. , the wave arrived with a<br />

tremendous roar - Walter's stepmother accused him <strong>of</strong><br />

putting something flammable in the stove . But the noise<br />

was outside and Walter ran to a nearby hill to seea white<br />

wall <strong>of</strong> water 15 to 20 feet high advancing tov..ards the<br />

land.<br />

By the time he relurned to his house the wave was in<br />

and the entire harbor was "smack smooth and gone".<br />

Stages and boats had all vanished. Mrs. Hepditch and<br />

her four children were upstairs in their house floating<br />

in the harbor, spinning in circles with an oil lamp shining<br />

from the window. Mr. Cake's 25-by-45foot store had<br />

been taken up to the road 100yards away. Mr. R.J. Bonnell's<br />

shop, a two-storey, building loaded with goods, was<br />

swept across the road to stop by the gate to his house.<br />

Remarkably the wave only went as far as the gate post<br />

too. Rocks came ashore, some <strong>of</strong> them two and three<br />

tons.<br />

Walter was staggered by the power in the wave. As<br />

he walked through the water there was a crackling sound<br />

in it, as though a giant can <strong>of</strong> lye had been thrown in hot<br />

water. Several <strong>of</strong> the buildings had gaps in the boards<br />

big enough "too shoot goals through", but the interiors<br />

remained dry. Bonnell's store had six or seven tons <strong>of</strong><br />

goods at one end, the weight should have up-ended it once<br />

was afloat, but the wave moved it "perfect fair" and it<br />

remained upright. AUMr. Cake's winter flour was in his<br />

building, it all remained dry. Mrs. Hepditch's house was<br />

St. Mary's Anglican Church completed 1907, restored in 1980<br />

Lone fisherman at Lamaline.<br />

DECKS AWASH - 17<br />

rescued by two fishermen. the lamp in her house never<br />

went out.<br />

Walter recalls, "It was the beginning <strong>of</strong> sorrow for<br />

Lamaline." The Ilshing grounds <strong>of</strong>f Lamaline were<br />

stripped <strong>of</strong> their ranrients for six or seven years. "It was<br />

a famine here, you never could get a fish to eat." Even<br />

the "goose grass" that grew in the barasway was<br />

stripped out and did not reappear for 25 years.<br />

By 1935 the population <strong>of</strong> Lamaline had grown to 1031,<br />

but it declined in thepost-war years to 826.One man who<br />

left at this lime was Albert J . Hillier . He served in the<br />

Royal Navy during World War II on everything from<br />

minesweepers to an aircraft carrier. Discharged in 1946,<br />

he attended the <strong>University</strong> <strong>of</strong> Rhode Island and later<br />

skippered a fishing boat out <strong>of</strong> New Bedford. He returned<br />

to the <strong>University</strong> <strong>of</strong> Rhode Island as an assistant pr<strong>of</strong>essor<br />

teaching net repair, design and construction, and<br />

achieved enormous popularity among the students. In<br />

1982the 60-year-old teacher was voted teacher <strong>of</strong> the year<br />

out <strong>of</strong> 145nominees. One student noted, "This man is an<br />

trreplacable master <strong>of</strong> twine."<br />

The decline in Lamaline's population began in the early<br />

war years as men went overseas or to work on<br />

military bases in other parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>Newfoundland</strong>. The<br />

trend gathered momentum in the post-war years, ac-


18 _ DECKS AWASH<br />

celerated by a failure in the fishery. In 1951the popula ­<br />

tion was 500, in 1956it was 548, in 1961it dropped to 530.<br />

Since the fishery and agriculture tend to be interdependent<br />

in the area, fishermen working at both, agriculture<br />

also declined . TIle trend was not reversed until 1966when<br />

the population rose10644,possibly from an influx <strong>of</strong> peopie<br />

from resettled communities.<br />

In 1971the population had dropped to 553 causing concern<br />

and even suggestions that Lamaline might have to<br />

be resettled. TIle problem was addressed by a joint con-<br />

Point May<br />

r'J'le community <strong>of</strong> Point May had very small<br />

.I. beginnings in 1874when two residents were reported<br />

, one male and one female. Both were over 70 years<br />

<strong>of</strong> age and Roman Catholic . There was one house occupied<br />

. It is probably safe to assume that the two inhabitants<br />

were man and wife. One<strong>of</strong> them was listed<br />

as foreign-born , i.e.. a country not <strong>of</strong> the British Empire.<br />

TIle gentleman was reported to have been a fanner and<br />

had six acres <strong>of</strong> land under cultivation. yielding 15tons<br />

<strong>of</strong> hay , 12 barrels <strong>of</strong> potatoes. He also kept six cattle,<br />

six milch cows, 12 sheep. one swine and one goat.<br />

By 1881, the population had jumped to 139 residents.<br />

There were 88 Church <strong>of</strong> England members, 50 Roman<br />

Catholics and one Wesleyan . There were 149acres <strong>of</strong><br />

land under cultivation. The 81 fishermen caught 1222<br />

quintals <strong>of</strong> cod which, together with 95 barrels <strong>of</strong> caplin<br />

amounted to a value <strong>of</strong> 1222pounds sterling.<br />

In 1891 Point May drops out <strong>of</strong> the Census and is<br />

replaced by two communities: Lories to the west <strong>of</strong> Point<br />

May Pond. and High Beach to the east. The combined<br />

population <strong>of</strong> the communities was 121.Roman Catholics<br />

dominated at Lories with 45 to 4 Church <strong>of</strong> England<br />

members while the reverse was true <strong>of</strong> High Beach with<br />

57 <strong>of</strong> the Church <strong>of</strong> England faith and only 15 Roman<br />

Catholics. Lones had a school with 11 children attending<br />

and one merchant operating out <strong>of</strong> the community.<br />

While there is no school listed at High Beach, there were<br />

22 children registered at school. The total value <strong>of</strong> cod<br />

landed was $550at Lorles and $738at High Beach. The<br />

combined number <strong>of</strong> fishermen stood.at 58with 33wornen<br />

curing fish .<br />

By 1001 the 94 residents <strong>of</strong> High Beach also had a<br />

school. Lories, now listed as Lorie's Cove had 84 resi ­<br />

dents. A total <strong>of</strong> 51 fishermen operated out <strong>of</strong> the two<br />

communities and 36women helped in the curing <strong>of</strong> fish.<br />

ference <strong>of</strong> the Lamaline Area Development Committee<br />

and <strong>Memorial</strong> <strong>University</strong> Extension Service. Subsequently,<br />

the population has sta blized being 543 in 1976<br />

and 548 in 1981. In 1978, 5 1. Joseph'sSchool costing $1.25<br />

million was built at Lam ali ne to serve the surrounding<br />

area, serving all gr ades with 21 teachers. At the opening<br />

, T. Alex Hickman rema rked on the progress and<br />

prosperity <strong>of</strong> the region in recent years, especially since<br />

the road from Lawn to Fort une had been paved. He said<br />

the area was becoming economica lly more via ble each<br />

year . I!I<br />

Point May<br />

Lone's Cove also boasts one merchant, one <strong>of</strong>fice worker<br />

and one farmer. Fish products brought in $4621in<br />

Lone's Cove and $2137 in High Beach. There was a school<br />

with21 students at Lone's Cove but no teacher listed for<br />

the community. High Beach, on the other hand, listed<br />

one teacher with 19 students.<br />

By 1911 there were three religious denominations<br />

represented in the two communities. There was one Salvationist<br />

at Lories , 2 Church <strong>of</strong> England members and<br />

161 Roman Catholics. Lories now also had a Roman<br />

Catholic church and school with one teacher and 18students<br />

in attendance. High Beach now ceased to rival<br />

Lories in population .....ith only 78 residents, 61<strong>of</strong> whom<br />

were <strong>of</strong> the Church <strong>of</strong> England faith and the remainder,<br />

Roman Catholics. Although there .....as no church, there<br />

was a Church <strong>of</strong> England sc hool with 18students. There<br />

were eight cod traps now in use in the two communities<br />

and 498 nets and seines with a total <strong>of</strong> 62 "shore"<br />

fishermen.<br />

By 1921people had set tled in the area behind Point<br />

May Pond between Lottes and High Beach . This settlement,<br />

now called Calmer, had 67 residents while Lones<br />

had dropped to 153and High Beach to 30.The total population<br />

for the area had risen by only 3 so it appears that<br />

Calmer was made up <strong>of</strong> former residents <strong>of</strong> the other<br />

two communities. Lones reports 39 fishermen, Calmer<br />

16, and High Beach 10. The total value <strong>of</strong> fish products<br />

ranged from $11.528at Lones, $3568 at Calmer to $3321<br />

at High Beach. Most <strong>of</strong> the improved land in the area


20 - DeCKS AWASH<br />

the area tod a y<br />

st. Lawrence<br />

History buff<br />

I<br />

f you want to know anything<br />

about days gone by in St.<br />

Lawrence, people in the community<br />

will tell you to go and see<br />

"Mrs. Ena " at the library. In fact ,<br />

Mrs . En a has become part <strong>of</strong> the<br />

folklore <strong>of</strong> St. Lawrence herself.<br />

But when you visit her be prepared<br />

to compete for her a ttention.<br />

"Mrs. Ena, did any new books<br />

come in since last week?" asks a<br />

teenag e girl.<br />

"Mrs . Ena , got a ny bookson the<br />

hist'ry <strong>of</strong> St. Lawrence?"<br />

The last one strikes gold. The<br />

I ..14....,"\'\'<br />

child is given a copy <strong>of</strong> the book,<br />

Notes Thward a History <strong>of</strong> St.<br />

Lawrence by Ena Farrell Edwards<br />

- Mrs. Ena herself.<br />

"WhenI tookover the library in<br />

1967it struck me that there was<br />

nothing written on the history <strong>of</strong><br />

St. Lawrence. I thought it was terrible<br />

and that's what started me<br />

<strong>of</strong>f. I researched everything on 51.<br />

Lawrence. I went to the Gosling<br />

Library and the <strong>Archives</strong> in 51.<br />

John's. But most <strong>of</strong> the information<br />

I got was in old books belonging<br />

to my father. Also, my<br />

mother-in-law Molly (Gree n) Edwards<br />

had a collection <strong>of</strong> books on


<strong>Newfoundland</strong> at her house that<br />

she had put together teaching<br />

school here for 40 years. 1<br />

managed to put all the bits and<br />

pieces together, had it typed up<br />

and 1would give it out to the chlldren<br />

to use for school. Then it occurred<br />

to me that 1won't behere<br />

forever . So 1sent the manuscript<br />

<strong>of</strong>f to Breakwater Books and after<br />

some additions and changes it<br />

was published."<br />

Mrs. Ena has several copies in<br />

the library and plans to put one<br />

in the museum as well. But it<br />

comes as no surprise that Mrs.<br />

Ena would have done all that<br />

work. She confesses to have always<br />

been a history buff even to<br />

the point <strong>of</strong> being a bit <strong>of</strong> a pest<br />

as a young girl.<br />

"I can still remember my<br />

mother telling me to stop bothering<br />

my grandmother with ques ­<br />

tions about the old days in St.<br />

Lawrence. Everyone was tired <strong>of</strong><br />

hearing them , except me, <strong>of</strong><br />

course. Wehad a very large howe<br />

and up on the third floor there<br />

was a room where all the old<br />

books, post-card albums, photo<br />

albums and old magazines were<br />

kept. And that's where I spent my<br />

time looking at them and asking<br />

questions about them. My grandmother<br />

used to Jove to talk about<br />

them with me. Now I wish I had<br />

thought to write it all down when<br />

I was a child because there are<br />

some things I'd forgotten when I<br />

got around to writing the history,"<br />

One <strong>of</strong> the stories Mrs. Ena<br />

heard from her grandmother was<br />

that <strong>of</strong> the arrival <strong>of</strong> her grandfather,<br />

Gregory Giovannini in<br />

<strong>Newfoundland</strong>. He and his<br />

brother Celestine are credited<br />

with setting up the first business<br />

in 81. Lawrence in 1850.<br />

"Before that the people had to<br />

rely on traders coming in by boat<br />

for their goods. The Giovanninis<br />

were a merchant family in Lucca,<br />

Italy, and three young<br />

Mrs. Ena's museum . Pewter creamer set from the original Giovannil'li home on bot·<br />

tomshelf,left.<br />

brothers taken by the spirit <strong>of</strong> adventure<br />

set out to make their way<br />

in the New World. They arrived in<br />

St. John's on the day <strong>of</strong> the Great<br />

Fire in 1846.But they wanted togo<br />

to a place that was sparsely populated<br />

and just beginning, They<br />

decided to take a boat along the<br />

coast to look at all the communities<br />

before deciding where to settle.<br />

One brother liked Rencontre<br />

East which had a thriving herring<br />

fishery at that time. But<br />

Celestine and Gregory came<br />

back to 81. Lawrence."<br />

Gregory married a local girl,<br />

Esther Fitzpatrick, and built a<br />

large it-room house with a mahogany<br />

staircase and a fireplace<br />

in every room.<br />

"He brought in carpenters from<br />

England, masons from Germany<br />

and paperhangers from Italy, and<br />

all the walls and ceilings were<br />

plaster."<br />

Unfortunately, Gregory passed<br />

away shortly aftercompleting the<br />

house and Mrs. Ena's grandmother<br />

was left with a family to<br />

raise and no business experience.<br />

"Her brother tookit over for her<br />

but he was a drinker and before<br />

long the business was in bad<br />

shape. It was put up for sale. In<br />

the meantime my grandmother<br />

had opened up a boarding house.<br />

One 01the boarders, 'Thomas Farrell,<br />

was a banking captain and


was down to three teachers from<br />

six. Nobody would come here.<br />

Now there's plenty <strong>of</strong> teachers<br />

but we can't hire them."<br />

The school is a large, handsome<br />

building erected in 1976 under<br />

a DREE grant. It<br />

accommodates 300students from<br />

grades 7 to 12, boys and girls, <strong>of</strong><br />

which about three-quarters are<br />

Roman Catholic. The rest are<br />

mostly Anglicans and although<br />

the school has a Roman Catholic<br />

board, clergy <strong>of</strong> other denominations<br />

visit freely.<br />

"It's much better having<br />

everybody under one ro<strong>of</strong>," says<br />

Bob. "And <strong>of</strong> course we can <strong>of</strong>fer<br />

more courses this way. We have<br />

17teachers including myself and<br />

the vice-principal.<br />

"The students enjoy the new<br />

grade 12. Of course, last year<br />

some <strong>of</strong> them were a bit browned<br />

<strong>of</strong>f, they said they would have<br />

finished school but for grade 12<br />

coming in. But this year they all<br />

enjoy it and they oniy have to<br />

have 36 out <strong>of</strong> 42 credits so they<br />

can afford to fail a few courses<br />

and still graduate. Before, they<br />

had to repeat the year. Now if<br />

they fail an essential core credit<br />

they can repeat it and fit it in with<br />

their other subjects. The program<br />

is terrific - if you have the<br />

space, materials, and teachers to<br />

<strong>of</strong>fer the courses."<br />

U's a big "if". The school lost I<br />

a teacher last year, but the staff<br />

is managing to spread the work<br />

around. Bob himself teaches 18<br />

periods out <strong>of</strong> 42in addition to his<br />

duties as principal. In 1986 they<br />

are scheduJed to lose another<br />

teacher and this worries Bob.<br />

"I'm half afraid we may go<br />

back to the older system - one<br />

type <strong>of</strong> education for the large<br />

schools in places like 81. John's<br />

and another, inferior type (or the<br />

smaller schools like ours.<br />

"We now <strong>of</strong>fer basic and academic<br />

math and the three major<br />

sciences: physics, biology, and<br />

chemistry. I figure with that<br />

background a student should be<br />

able to go to any <strong>of</strong> the postsecondary<br />

institutions. <strong>University</strong><br />

is the most popular, but we<br />

don't have anybody going from<br />

here to the Fisheries College and<br />

I think that's crazy. We had two<br />

men come down from the College<br />

some years ago to talk to the students,<br />

but they can't come down<br />

just once and get the kids' attention<br />

in one hour. to<br />

For many years Bob taught industrial<br />

arts - a subject he enjoys.<br />

"You can see the students<br />

improve year by year. When we<br />

started only boys took it, but tbat<br />

tradition is breaking down. Girls<br />

take woodworking now and they<br />

are good, very meticulous. Some<br />

<strong>of</strong> the boys ...well, we were making<br />

bird-houses from half-inch<br />

plywood and one-inch finishing<br />

nails, then selling them for about<br />

five dollars. Some beys would put<br />

the nail right through the other<br />

side and their joints would be <strong>of</strong>f.<br />

St. Lawrence Central High School<br />

DeCKS AWASH - 25<br />

You'd point it out and they'd say,<br />

'Ah sir, that's good enough sir.'<br />

It's frustrating at times."<br />

Today Bob teaches 12 periods<br />

<strong>of</strong> religious instruction.<br />

"Some <strong>of</strong> the students are skeptical,<br />

but some surprise you. I<br />

was talking to a class about people<br />

who go to Mass but hang<br />

around outside the church smoking<br />

and yarning outside instead<strong>of</strong><br />

sitting through the service. A<br />

young Anglican girl spoke up."<br />

"Yes sir, that really burns me<br />

up, too."<br />

"Why. do you have that in your<br />

church, too?" asked Bob.<br />

"I'm not talking about my<br />

church sir, I'm talking about<br />

when I go to Mass."<br />

"You go to Mass?"<br />

"Sure I go to Mass every now<br />

and then with my friends," she<br />

replied.<br />

"That really surprised me,"<br />

commented Bob. "That's really<br />

great. When I first came here you<br />

wouldn't catch an Anglican going<br />

near a Roman Catholic church."<br />

Bob's other great love is<br />

fishing.<br />

"1 would have gone fishing if I<br />

had not gone teaching. Being out<br />

there on an August morning before<br />

dawn, on a calm sea waiting<br />

for the cod, you are in a world <strong>of</strong><br />

your own. Of course you can't get<br />

a licence to go fishing anymore.<br />

You'd get a licence to go to the<br />

moon quicker than you'd get one<br />

to go fishing," concludes Bob<br />

with a laugh. .,


26 _ DECKS AWASH<br />

I'd do it again<br />

t. Lawrence has three hard­<br />

S ware stores. One, a Handy<br />

Andystore, is owned by brothers<br />

Gary and Harry Edwards and<br />

their father Harry Edwards.<br />

It's a franchise operation from<br />

Mootreal that celebrated its 50th<br />

amiversary last year," says Gary<br />

who started the store in April<br />

1982. Why anybody should start a<br />

store in St. Lawrence at that time<br />

is a little puzzling .<br />

"Well. I worked in a Home<br />

Hardware store for ten years and<br />

then I left and went selling cars<br />

for a year. But at that time interest<br />

rates hit 24 per cent and<br />

people stopped buying cars. I had<br />

it in my mind for awhile to start<br />

a hardware store, so when the<br />

news came that we were getting<br />

a newfish plant, I figured it was<br />

as well to go now."<br />

The Edwards put together a<br />

line <strong>of</strong> credit and built a store<br />

with 2500 square feet <strong>of</strong> retail<br />

space. Then with over $50,000<br />

worth <strong>of</strong> inventory they opened<br />

their doors and kept them open 12<br />

hours a day six days a week. The<br />

fish plant turned out not to bethe<br />

community's salvation, but Gary<br />

has no regrets.<br />

Gary Edwards<br />

"Well hoy, I'll tell you. If I had<br />

to start again next week I think I'd<br />

do it again. Considering the economic<br />

situation in the community<br />

we've done quite well. Oh, it's<br />

been rough at times, but overall<br />

we've maintained th e sales<br />

projections we set for ourselves."<br />

Part <strong>of</strong> the store's success is<br />

due to the franchising operation.<br />

Gary requires only one supplier<br />

instead <strong>of</strong> many. He knows exactly<br />

when the delivery truck is leaving<br />

Montreal and when it will<br />

arrive. He sends his orders via an<br />

electronic device that couples to<br />

his phone and communicates<br />

directly with the computer at the<br />

Montreal warehouse. And his<br />

prices are in line with those<br />

across Canada so he is able to<br />

compete with the big chains.<br />

"If a salesman were to come<br />

from 51. John's I'd have to go<br />

around the store with him and<br />

wait on customers, and it would<br />

still take me twoweeks to get orders<br />

from St. John's. This way I<br />

come in for two hours a couple<strong>of</strong><br />

nights a week and do my ordering<br />

and bookwork."<br />

Gary, who does aU his awn<br />

bookkeeping, gained his accounting<br />

knowledge when he went to<br />

the College <strong>of</strong> Trades and Technology<br />

at St. John's in 1970.<br />

"It was a two-year course, but<br />

I left in April the first year when<br />

I got a job with Alcan. I thought<br />

it would be permanent employment<br />

but in OCtober I was laid <strong>of</strong>f<br />

- which also fixed me for going<br />

back to the Trades College," says<br />

Gary ruefully. "But the accounting<br />

I got has been hasically helpful.<br />

We look at our figures each<br />

month and compare them to the<br />

same month last year to see<br />

whether we're up or down. Wetry<br />

to keep the cash Ilowing."<br />

The store carries a variety <strong>of</strong><br />

hardw are items, their specialty<br />

being the number <strong>of</strong> automotive<br />

parts it has .<br />

"There's also the seasonal<br />

items like chain saws . snowmobile<br />

parts, and sporting goods. We<br />

change with the season, something<br />

like automotive parts alone<br />

wouldn't be enough to operate.<br />

And yoo can send the unsold slllff<br />

hack to the warehouse. You're not<br />

stuck with it, which is another<br />

good thing about a franchise.<br />

"Right now the fastest moving<br />

items are body filler and poprivets.<br />

A fellowhas got to keep his<br />

car going. But in winter people do


28 - DECKS AWASH<br />

plants," says Murray. "We employ<br />

approximately 120 people<br />

with about 100<strong>of</strong> those working<br />

on the production floor. There is<br />

one shift per day . This year we<br />

processed fish from May 16th to<br />

August 25th. Since then we have<br />

been buying from the fishermen<br />

and trucking it to other plants for<br />

processing . Right now, because<br />

<strong>of</strong> the trawlermen's strike, the<br />

closest plant in operation is the<br />

one at Bonavista and that is<br />

where our fish is going. This is<br />

feasible as long as we can get a<br />

truckload every second day ."<br />

The plant is supplied by approximately<br />

40 inshore fishermen<br />

, 20each from Burin and St.<br />

Lawrence. With one shift in operation,<br />

as was the case this season ,<br />

Murray estimates the daily<br />

production capacity <strong>of</strong> the plant<br />

to be between 60 - 70,000 Ills .<br />

" The fish arrives at the dock<br />

iced and gutted, II he says. "We<br />

weigh it to determine how much<br />

we owe the fisherman and then<br />

immediately ice it again. It is<br />

then stored overnight. The next<br />

Fighting to win<br />

"You see that fish plant?"<br />

asks Mayor George<br />

Doyle <strong>of</strong> St. Lawrence, pointing<br />

emphatically at the closed Fishery<br />

Products International plant<br />

on the next pier. "That's what I<br />

want you to emphasize in your<br />

story . The mine is going to reopen<br />

some time next year but I don't<br />

think it's going to be the answer<br />

to all our problems. We have<br />

nearly 500 people available for<br />

work in this community and the<br />

mine will only take about 100or<br />

so. That's not enough!"<br />

If it sounds lil


30 - DECKS AWASH<br />

The big one didn't get away<br />

eorge Powerand BillMoUoy<br />

G have been fishing together<br />

in George 's boat for to years. OCcasionally<br />

Edgar Beck joins<br />

them when he's not workin g in<br />

the local fish plant.<br />

" I have to show those two<br />

where toget the fish," jokes Edg ­<br />

ar as they pull up to the community<br />

wharf in 81. Lawrence . The<br />

three men have been out trawling<br />

since early morning. They fish<br />

about nine miles from shore at<br />

this time <strong>of</strong> year .<br />

"We spent two months this<br />

summer in Trepassey fishing<br />

over there ," says George . "There<br />

aren't enough fish in this area so<br />

we stay down there and sell to the<br />

plant in Trepassey. We had a<br />

very good summer."<br />

" The fall fishery is a bit better<br />

around here than in sum mer,"<br />

adds Bill. "So we come back and<br />

fish out <strong>of</strong> St. Lawrence and sell<br />

to the local plant until they stop<br />

buying ."<br />

Today has been a good day for<br />

the men . Their catch weighs in at<br />

the plant at 1300Ibs. One cod is<br />

approximately 70 Ibs.<br />

"It took all three <strong>of</strong> us to get<br />

that one aboard the boat, " says<br />

Bill. "And there's a few more<br />

almost as big in this catch. The<br />

only thing is that yoo can 't get out<br />

George Power behind 1m. whee601 his boat, Bill Molloy with buck et.<br />

look like we'll get out tomorrow<br />

if the weather gets much worse."<br />

This is the last week George<br />

and Bill will fish this season .<br />

Each year George goes to the<br />

mainJand to work as a miner .<br />

This year he will spend the winter<br />

working in the gold mines at<br />

Kirkland Lake, Ontario . Then<br />

next spring it's back to sea to<br />

take up the fishery again. I!


Building a better boat<br />

T<br />

here is the noise <strong>of</strong> a chain<br />

saw, and as we round the<br />

bend George and Norma n<br />

Reeves, father and son, can be<br />

seen molding pieces <strong>of</strong> lumber<br />

out <strong>of</strong> the timber the y have cut to<br />

build their new longliner .<br />

"We've been a t it since June,"<br />

explains George . taking a break<br />

fn::mhis work . "That's almost six<br />

mooths <strong>of</strong> slow going but we only<br />

get to it on days when we aren't<br />

fishing."<br />

The boat is mostly spruce<br />

which Geor ge and Norman cut<br />

themselves along with another<br />

son, Robert. Initially, they had<br />

the timber milled pr<strong>of</strong>essionally<br />

for the shell <strong>of</strong> the boat. They now<br />

are doing all the work themselves<br />

with hand tools.<br />

"This is the first boat I ever<br />

built ," says George . " We got the<br />

blueprint from the Fisheries<br />

DECKS AWASH - 31<br />

The frame <strong>of</strong> the Reeves' new boat.<br />

Loan Board. We 'l<strong>of</strong>ted' it out on that's where you draw out the<br />

plywood on the basement floor - plans full scale.<br />

"She's 35feet long and 121,lz feet<br />

to 14 feet wide. We've got a 130<br />

h.p. diesel engine which cost<br />

$11,000. And don't ask me when<br />

we expect to finish it because I<br />

couldn't even guess ."<br />

George has been fishing for a<br />

living since the late 19508.He also<br />

spent four years working as a<br />

mucker for the St. Lawrence Corporation<br />

<strong>Newfoundland</strong> Limited<br />

at the Iron Springs fluorspar<br />

mine . Prior to that he was employed<br />

as the Iightkeeper at Middle<br />

Head at the entrance to St.<br />

Lawrence Harbour.<br />

" My father went out there as<br />

lightkeeper when I was about<br />

seven years old," he recaUs .<br />

"There was no road then ; just<br />

bog in front <strong>of</strong> you as far as you<br />

could see . I used to walk in to St.<br />

Lawrence for school each week<br />

and stay at my aunt's until Friday.<br />

Then I'd walk hack out to the<br />

lighthouse for the weekend. Once<br />

in a while I'd come in by boat but<br />

not very <strong>of</strong>ten .<br />

"I took over as lightkeeper<br />

shortly after the wreck in Cham ­<br />

ber Cove in 1942when the Truxtonsank<br />

. My father was involved<br />

in the rescue operations. I


32 - DECKS AWASH<br />

worked out there until the 19505.<br />

There was still no road and my<br />

wile had taken ill out there, the<br />

youngsters had to go to school. So<br />

I quit and moved to St. Lawrence .<br />

That's when I went to work in the<br />

mines."<br />

But the Iron Springs mine<br />

closed in 1957 when the St.<br />

Lawrence Corporation lost its<br />

market in the United States. After<br />

a short stint as a janitor for<br />

Alcan, George had no choice but<br />

to turn to the sea to earn a living.<br />

George and his two sons fish<br />

from late April until October .<br />

Their days are long, sometimes<br />

beginning as early as 2 a.m . and<br />

ending at 8 p.m. after they have<br />

baited the next day's trawl. This<br />

was the last week the Reeves will<br />

go out fishing this year because<br />

the plant in St. Lawrence stopped<br />

buying from them on October 25.<br />

"You can't fish this time <strong>of</strong><br />

year on this coast anyway," says<br />

Norman. "You can't get out <strong>of</strong><br />

the harbor for the wind. We're<br />

lucky to get a couple <strong>of</strong> days a<br />

week in OCtober. Most days in<br />

summer though we manage to<br />

get out four days a week at least.<br />

Then towards the last part <strong>of</strong> August<br />

and September months you<br />

start losing days more <strong>of</strong>ten ."<br />

"This year was unusual<br />

though," adds George. " We<br />

never lost a single day in September.<br />

But even so, it's a bad year<br />

because there's no fish on the go<br />

and what there is is small. We're<br />

managing to make a living but<br />

it'sa damn poor-one. Restructuring<br />

<strong>of</strong> the fishery was supposed to<br />

help us but I can't see where it's<br />

done us much good at all . The lish<br />

plant was only open 18weeks last<br />

year and this year it was down to<br />

15 weeks . That doesn 't do the<br />

plant workers or fishermen much<br />

good at all."<br />

" Another problem is the draggers,"<br />

adds Norman. "There's<br />

draggers from all over the world<br />

out there orr our coast taking fish<br />

in large quantities. Wecan 't have<br />

fish there for them and for the in-<br />

A part <strong>of</strong> the community<br />

ister Betty Morr issey is noth­<br />

S ing if not straight forward<br />

a nd direct.<br />

"And tha t's what I don' t," she<br />

replies, looking our reporter<br />

straight in the eye when asked if<br />

she minded being asked her age.<br />

"I'm 42 years old a nd I've been<br />

a Sister <strong>of</strong> Mercy for 25 years."<br />

So much for the image <strong>of</strong> the<br />

unapproachable nun. Sister Betty<br />

is principal <strong>of</strong> Marian Elementary<br />

School, SI. Lawrence, but<br />

her involvement in the community<br />

goes far beyond that role.<br />

"I became a sister to bring<br />

Christ to others," she explains.<br />

"As a member <strong>of</strong> a religious community<br />

I cannot be totally part01<br />

this world, but I cannot be shut<br />

<strong>of</strong>f from it either."<br />

That philosophy helps to explain<br />

the variety <strong>of</strong> the involvement<br />

the Sisters <strong>of</strong> Mercy<br />

statio ned at S1.Lawrence have in<br />

the lives <strong>of</strong> the people in the community.<br />

Sister Betty explains that<br />

all four sisters are involved as<br />

Caught in the wind . Sister Betty is always<br />

on the run.<br />

teachers, Extraordinary<br />

Ministers <strong>of</strong> the Eucharist, with<br />

the youth , the mentally han-<br />

shore , too."<br />

There is also a problem with<br />

bait in the ar ea . There hasn't<br />

been any squid now for three<br />

yea rs and the Reeves are forced<br />

to buy mackerel to bait their<br />

trawls.<br />

" I've only been fishing for 10<br />

years," says Norman, " but I can<br />

remember a time when we'd set<br />

out nets for a week and have<br />

enough mackerel to last a year.<br />

Now we buy 600 pounds a week<br />

and are lucky to catch another<br />

100pounds ourselves. And we're<br />

paying 17(a pound for it so it isn't<br />

cheap ."<br />

But both men say they have to<br />

stay with fishing as there is nothing<br />

else for them to do in St.<br />

Lawrence right now. Although<br />

the mine will reopen in the near<br />

future , George believes the younger<br />

men will get the jobs and Norman<br />

has no experience. But they<br />

expect the fishing will be better<br />

with their new, more efficient<br />

longliner. n!<br />

dicapped and in community activities.<br />

"I say all <strong>of</strong> us because eac h <strong>of</strong><br />

us takes part in the projects the<br />

others are involved in," continues<br />

Sister Betty . "When I first came<br />

here four years ago , we visited<br />

the needy in the parish to see<br />

what we could do to help. And I<br />

think you have to take that first<br />

step - you can't sit and wait for<br />

people to come to you. They 'll<br />

never do it. Now they know they<br />

can call us for help if they need<br />

it."<br />

Sister Betty also manages<br />

volleyball and basketball teams<br />

and sees this relationship with<br />

youth as very important to her<br />

vocation.<br />

" I don't segregate myself from<br />

them when we go away to<br />

games,to she explains. " I put on<br />

my slacks, get on the bus and I'm<br />

one <strong>of</strong> the crowd . And they don't<br />

see me as something separate<br />

either. I have yet to have to sit<br />

aJooe in a roadside restaurant.'


And the young people don 't feel<br />

it's necessary to hide the fact that<br />

I'm a sister from others. They 'll<br />

sing out across a crowded<br />

restaurant, 'Sister, did you get<br />

your c<strong>of</strong>fee? ' I think it's very important<br />

to be part <strong>of</strong> the lives <strong>of</strong><br />

the people you serve as a religious.<br />

"I'm also a great supporter <strong>of</strong><br />

our St. Lawrence Laurentians<br />

soccer team. When I first went to<br />

a game I asked them where I<br />

should stand and they told me<br />

right behind the goalie was a<br />

goodspot. Now it' s my spot and<br />

if I'm late nobody takes it. And<br />

they know when I'm there, too.<br />

They'll sa y to one another,<br />

'Watch yourself now, look who's<br />

behind you.' And they know I'm<br />

not shy about telling them to<br />

watch themselves either."<br />

There are three other sisters at<br />

the convent at St. Lawrence: Sister<br />

Mary Consilio Power, Ellen<br />

Marie Sullivan and Margaret<br />

Taylor. Each has recently been<br />

appointed as an Extraordinary<br />

Minister <strong>of</strong> the Eucharist.<br />

"We took Holy Communion to<br />

the sick <strong>of</strong> the parish about a<br />

Workin' the mine<br />

"I know fellows my age have<br />

been stuck in the house for<br />

years, never go anywhere," says<br />

Patrick Walsh, 76. "Me, 1can 't do<br />

that. I would go crazy. 1 was up<br />

this morning at 6 o'clock and I've<br />

been fiddling around ever sinc e.<br />

1do a few things around the house<br />

that need to be done and I'm down<br />

to the Kelly 's Gas Bar every<br />

morning to have a yarn with the<br />

boys. It helps to pass away the<br />

time and keeps me active. "<br />

Before he retired, Patrick<br />

worked in the mines at St.<br />

Lawrence for 24 years. He started<br />

at the Iron Springs mine immediately<br />

after the second Wocld<br />

War but worked most <strong>of</strong> those<br />

years for Alean .<br />

"I loved it," be exclaims. "I'd go<br />

back tomorrow if they let me.<br />

1bere wasn 't a thing about it<br />

hnthered me. 1went underground<br />

month ago ." says Sister Betty .<br />

" It was the highlight <strong>of</strong> my reli ­<br />

gious life beca use it truly is bring ­<br />

ing Chris t to others in the mast<br />

tangible way. That is the ultimate<br />

in religious life."<br />

But in spite <strong>of</strong> the changes in<br />

the convent over the years - and<br />

ther e ha ve bee n many - Sister<br />

Betty sa ys she' s not caught up in<br />

the current argument over the<br />

role <strong>of</strong> women in the Church.<br />

"Or the role <strong>of</strong> sisters, either,"<br />

she says, showing a bit <strong>of</strong> annoy ­<br />

ance for the first time . " I am not<br />

caught up in this bus iness <strong>of</strong> sisters<br />

wanti ng to be pri ests . TIley<br />

should get on with what we were<br />

founded for - the privilege <strong>of</strong>0;<br />

ing the work <strong>of</strong> God and we have<br />

the opportunity to do so in so<br />

many ways. Certain things are<br />

left to the priest alone, just as certain<br />

things are left to God alone .<br />

I don't have a problem with that:'<br />

But getting on with their work<br />

doesn 't necessarily mean rejecting<br />

new ways . The Sisters <strong>of</strong> Mercy<br />

voted to stop wearing the long<br />

hab it in 1966. The veil now is optimal<br />

and man y <strong>of</strong> the strict rules<br />

<strong>of</strong> conduct no longer are ap-<br />

PatriCk Walsh<br />

8-900 feet and I never thought<br />

about it. And the work was hard.<br />

DECKS AWASH - 33<br />

plicable.<br />

" Things are much more<br />

relaxed today ," says Sister Betty.<br />

"The convent doors have been<br />

thrown open to the people . Our<br />

teachers will <strong>of</strong>ten share a meal<br />

with us. We have held twilight<br />

retreats for the young people <strong>of</strong><br />

the parish as well. They come<br />

together at the convent and we<br />

have a Holy Hour prepared. And<br />

then afterwards we have soup<br />

and sandwiches for them. It all<br />

helps to build a Christian community<br />

and that's what it's an<br />

about. "<br />

But all this newness doesn 't<br />

mean that the old-fashioned<br />

values are left behind .<br />

" Our religious community always<br />

comes first ," explains Sister<br />

Betty . "I always say if 1don't<br />

pray, forget my day. And that's<br />

true. I have a time <strong>of</strong> private<br />

prayer first thing in the morning.<br />

Aoo then we pray as a community<br />

at 7:45 a .m . and we have Mass<br />

at 7 p.m . The religious life is very<br />

much a part <strong>of</strong> our lives. It's first<br />

and foremost and always must<br />

be." l1<br />

When 1 started I was a hand<br />

mucker. Weused a shovel to take<br />

up the muck - that's what we<br />

called the ore - and load it in iron<br />

buckets on the trolley. We'd ftre<br />

the muck up over our heads with<br />

the shovels . And in those days<br />

we'd have to shove the trams by<br />

hand . I enjoyed it that much that<br />

when 1got retirement age I asked<br />

for a year's extension."<br />

Patrick was in the middle <strong>of</strong><br />

working his extra year when the<br />

miners went on strike. Although<br />

he was receiving his Old Age<br />

Security, he was not getting his<br />

Canada Pension because he was<br />

still working . But when the strike<br />

started he realized he was losing<br />

money because he wasn't getting<br />

paid and still couldn 't draw CPP<br />

because he was employed.<br />

"So 1went in and asked to be retired<br />

then, " he recalls. "I knew it


loss <strong>of</strong> natural oils and help stop<br />

matting and those knobs wool<br />

sweaters get after they have been<br />

washed a few times ."<br />

During the past summer,<br />

Daphne made five sweaters to<br />

sell in the store. She says she can<br />

make a sweater in a few days if<br />

she is in the mood.<br />

"If I'm not in the mood, forget<br />

it," she admits. " But I've always<br />

got handknit goods for sale . [ sell<br />

them for people around here.<br />

They buy the wool from me and<br />

I believe the least I can do is to<br />

help them sell their goods . It's<br />

good Cor business. Last year<br />

Signals for safety<br />

" 0 ur number one priority<br />

is the safety <strong>of</strong> life at<br />

sea," says Dan Pike, 26, radio<br />

operator at the St. Lawrence<br />

Coast Guard Radio Station which<br />

operates 24 hours a day , year<br />

round . "We are here to fulfil<br />

Canada's commitment to the<br />

Safety <strong>of</strong> Life at Sea Conference<br />

the first <strong>of</strong> which was held in<br />

t914."<br />

Dan started at the station in St.<br />

Lawrence in May after completing<br />

an intense training course at<br />

the Transport Canada Training<br />

Institute at Cornwall, Ontario. He<br />

explains that safety <strong>of</strong> Life at Sea<br />

Conferences are held on a regular<br />

basis, the most recent in 1974<br />

at London, England. At one <strong>of</strong> the<br />

conferences it was agreed that<br />

Greenwich mean time would be<br />

used for uniformity and safety at<br />

sea.<br />

"Our emergency calls are derived<br />

from French words," explains<br />

Dan. "We listen for three<br />

different calls. The most urgent<br />

is 'mayday' which is an English<br />

corruption <strong>of</strong> the French (venez)<br />

m'aider, which means '( come )<br />

help me' . Ifwe hear 'mayday', it<br />

means the ship is in grave and<br />

imminent danger <strong>of</strong> sinking and<br />

loss <strong>of</strong> lives is possible. Next is<br />

'pan-pan', which comes from the<br />

French word for broken down,<br />

and is used when a ship is in trouble<br />

but there is no immediate<br />

those salt-and-pepper caps were<br />

ail the rage. As fast as the wornen<br />

could knit them up they'd be<br />

sold. This year it's clothes for<br />

'Cabhage Patch Kids' dolls. 1<br />

can't keep them on the shelves."<br />

Daphne is only too happy to<br />

give her customers advice and<br />

help them choose wools or fabric<br />

for a particular pattern they want<br />

to make.<br />

"When I first opened up, a lot<br />

<strong>of</strong> people came to me to learn<br />

how to knit, " she says. "Years<br />

ago a lot <strong>of</strong> the women did it but<br />

many <strong>of</strong> the younger people<br />

hadn't learned how. And those<br />

danger. And finally, we use<br />

'securite' which means that the<br />

station is about to transmit infer-<br />

Helping out at home<br />

Karen Giovannini recently<br />

graduated from beauty culture<br />

school in Halifax. She worked as<br />

a hair stylist in St. John's for<br />

awhile but isn't sure she wants to<br />

continue in the business. She rrTN<br />

is considering taking Social Wock<br />

at <strong>Memorial</strong> <strong>University</strong> next year.<br />

In the meantime she has moved<br />

back to St. Lawrence and is helping<br />

out with the family business,<br />

the K-Karen Motel.<br />

DECKS AWASH - 35<br />

who did were used to knitt ing<br />

with acrylics. Woo), eve n if it's<br />

only a small percentage, looks<br />

much nicer and wears better, too.<br />

A lot <strong>of</strong> my customers really like<br />

working with the chunky yarn<br />

which is 25 per cent wool. They<br />

can throw it in the washing<br />

machine and dryer and it won't<br />

shrink. So it's really easy to care<br />

for."<br />

With the promsie <strong>of</strong> the reopen ­<br />

ing <strong>of</strong> the mine and increased activity,<br />

Daphne is optimistic.<br />

"I plan to slick it out, because<br />

I really like the business," she<br />

concludes. .",<br />

mation concerning navigational<br />

safety <strong>of</strong> vessels. It could be a<br />

gale warning, a sighting <strong>of</strong> ice, or<br />

an iceberg, notice <strong>of</strong> a broken<br />

light in a lighthouse, or a buoy out<br />

<strong>of</strong> place, or that a ship is about to<br />

navigate a restricted channel and<br />

wants other ships to stay clear. I<br />

would then rebroadcast the infermation<br />

and afterwards transmit<br />

it to the Coast Guard Traffic<br />

Centre in St. John's."<br />

When a mayday does come in,<br />

Dan has got to know his job. He<br />

can't affo rd to brea k under pressure<br />

because tha t could mean unnecessary<br />

loss <strong>of</strong> life.<br />

" I can't expec t my supervisor<br />

to behere to tell me what to do in<br />

an emergency," he says . "U'snot<br />

very <strong>of</strong>ten my supervisor is here<br />

when I'm working. 1 shouldn't<br />

need any belp at all after the<br />

training t've had. First I establish<br />

all the pertinent information<br />

from the ship sending the mayday.<br />

We have a direct line to<br />

Search and Rescue and we call<br />

the information in to them and<br />

they go right into action. So I act<br />

as a middleman. One thing you<br />

never do is give up eommunicatim<br />

with a ship even after you<br />

have contacted Search a nd<br />

Rescue."<br />

The calls could come in on one<br />

<strong>of</strong> three frequencies: VHF for<br />

very high freq uency. MF for<br />

medium frequency, and 500kilo-


electric hea t in the new building<br />

before we could eve n move into<br />

it. We also have a problem in that<br />

we are payi ng commercial hydro<br />

ra tes which work out to $150a<br />

month . I don't think that's fair. It<br />

would make quite a bit <strong>of</strong> differrenee<br />

financially if we could pay<br />

domestic rates."<br />

The members get toget her<br />

twice a week for a game <strong>of</strong> darts.<br />

Their regular monthly meeting is<br />

held on the first Friday <strong>of</strong> eac h<br />

month and there is a card party<br />

the second Friday <strong>of</strong> the month.<br />

They have also joined the NewfotmdJand<br />

and Labrador Pensioner<br />

s and Senior Citizens<br />

Federa tion and are affiliated<br />

Lawn<br />

Busman's holiday<br />

awn is a pict uresq ue port set<br />

L in a long, narrow harbour between<br />

steep hills. Cows wander<br />

freely grazing on the grass verges<br />

at the road 's edge while horses<br />

stare at us with rolling eyes. The<br />

sun sh ines brigh tly from an<br />

a lmost cloud less sky which<br />

mak es us happy because there's<br />

fog and rain in S1.J ohn's. Another<br />

happy man we bump into is Alf<br />

Strang who is carrying a large<br />

wheel-wrench to do some work on<br />

his school bus.<br />

"I've been in the school bus business<br />

for six years now," says Alf.<br />

"It's a bit noisy sometimes, but<br />

you get used to it. I bought the bus<br />

in 1979. It's got only 76,000<br />

kilometres on it. Any work that's<br />

to he done I do myse lf. I'm waiting<br />

until my Christmas holiday to<br />

do the seats. I took a few trips to<br />

St. J ohn's with the cadets and<br />

they made those holes in the<br />

covers. I suppose they had nothing<br />

else to do, but at least they<br />

could have gone to sleep," he says<br />

with a resigned laugh.<br />

Alf used to fish but after six<br />

yea rs he gave it up.<br />

"The big thing here is the trap<br />

fishery. I'd say there's close on a<br />

hundred fishermen here fish in<br />

with the National Pensioners and<br />

Senior Citizens Federation as<br />

well.<br />

"There are four <strong>of</strong> us who go to<br />

the national convention each<br />

year," says Meta. "We are all<br />

widows and we save our money<br />

to go because the club can't afford<br />

to send us. Last year was in<br />

Kitchener, Ontario, and this year<br />

we went to Charlottetown, P.E.I.<br />

I really enjoy meeting people at<br />

the conventions because there<br />

are seniors there from <strong>Newfoundland</strong><br />

to British Columbia. The oldest<br />

person is 93and he sits on the<br />

executive. And we discuss things<br />

<strong>of</strong> importance to senior citizens.<br />

Last year there were 86 resolu-<br />

Alf Strang<br />

summertime. H.B. Dawe buys it,<br />

they have a saltfish plant. But<br />

they've got to be 18inches or the<br />

plant won't buy them. My father<br />

was fishing here this swnmer and<br />

he probably brought in 14-15,000<br />

pounds <strong>of</strong> end a day. But by the<br />

lime he'd weighed it in you might<br />

only have 4-5,000 pounds over 18<br />

inches. The rest you have to throw<br />

away. Not a dam thing you can do<br />

with the stuff and yet so many<br />

people starving in the world.<br />

"Things weren't always like<br />

that. Back in the late '60s and the<br />

70s Booth Fisheries bought all<br />

OlD"fish. They were an American<br />

company and everything we<br />

DECKS AWASH - 39<br />

tions and the national federation<br />

brings them right to Ottawa and<br />

lobbies on our hehalf. I'm rea lly<br />

looking forward to next yea r's<br />

convention in North Bay, Ontario,<br />

because we hope to bring<br />

some resolutions from <strong>Newfoundland</strong><br />

for the first time."<br />

Meta says her involvement in<br />

the Golden Age Club and her activities<br />

at the provincial and natimalleve!<br />

are very important to<br />

her.<br />

"I like to get people involved<br />

and 1am very proud to carryon<br />

the work that Austin started here<br />

in S1.Lawrence," she concludes.<br />

"11"5 what keeps me going now.<br />

It means everything to me. "11<br />

caught they bought. They're gone<br />

now,The Lake group came in and<br />

look over. I suppose in some ways<br />

they were the good old days.<br />

"Take when the mines were<br />

working in St. Lawrence. You'd<br />

work at Aleen all winter, you'd<br />

come home in the spring <strong>of</strong> the<br />

year and go fishing, then in the<br />

fall you'd haul up your boat, put<br />

away your gear and go back toAlcan<br />

and work aJl winter. It would<br />

he a great thing if they got the<br />

mine working again," he adds.<br />

After quitting the fishing Alf<br />

went into business.<br />

"I had a store for 12years. Sold<br />

most everything from a bag <strong>of</strong><br />

nails to a piece <strong>of</strong> moulding for<br />

facing a door. But I got tired <strong>of</strong> it<br />

and sold it. A rat race, rat race ...<br />

"You worked 16 or 17 hours a<br />

day. People just kept coming in.<br />

They'd ring you 12 o'clock at<br />

night, especially fishermen who<br />

wanted something for their boat.<br />

I'd get up and give it to them.<br />

Then you'd go to St. John's once<br />

or twice a week for supplies."<br />

AIr sold the business and<br />

bought a bus and his wife Marie<br />

had another child.<br />

"I've got six children, all girls.<br />

Theeldest is 18,she's at universi-


to graze the grass next to her<br />

master's building.<br />

"You 'll see a Jot <strong>of</strong> cows wandering<br />

around here, " says Fred.<br />

"We have the odd person come to<br />

Council and say we should bar<br />

them in, and we have the odd accident<br />

with them, but I'm an advocale<br />

<strong>of</strong> letting that sluff be as<br />

it is. We have tourists come here<br />

in summer and follow those cows<br />

for hours ."<br />

Letting cows roam and graze<br />

where they will also aUows pe0ple<br />

who might not have a field 10<br />

keep a cow. Fred. sums it up.<br />

"When you take the cows <strong>of</strong>f<br />

the side <strong>of</strong> the road you've become<br />

a Canadian, you're no<br />

longer a <strong>Newfoundland</strong>er."<br />

Lawn has about 250 houses .<br />

There is no property tax but<br />

property owners pay a poll tax <strong>of</strong><br />

$60 a year and sa a month for<br />

water service. Fred estimates<br />

that only 10 or 15 people have<br />

mortgages on their homes .<br />

"When you get home and kick<br />

<strong>of</strong>f your shoes , it's a nice feeling<br />

to know whatever you've got is<br />

your own," says Fred whose<br />

house started life as a school.<br />

"I brought the old school, did<br />

some work on it, then packed my<br />

bag and went to Ontario for<br />

awhile to make some money.<br />

Winning the battle<br />

T<br />

he comunity <strong>of</strong> Lawn seems<br />

to be a quiet place to live ­<br />

a most unlikely place for picket<br />

lines In form and the RCMP In be<br />

flown in because <strong>of</strong> an ongoing<br />

dispule. But that's just what happened<br />

when the Roman Calbolic<br />

school board for the Burin Peninsula<br />

announced that Holy Name<br />

<strong>of</strong> Mary Elementary/High School<br />

would be closed. Jusl as unlikely<br />

is the involvement <strong>of</strong> Gertie<br />

Lambe, a quiet, shy resident <strong>of</strong><br />

Lawn who was treasurer <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Lawn School Commillee which<br />

was formed 10 fighl the school<br />

closure.<br />

"The school goes from Grades<br />

4 In 12 - il was Grade 11 at the<br />

lime, " says Gertie. "They want -<br />

Cox's Convenience Store<br />

When I got back I did some more<br />

work on the house . In Ontario I<br />

remember walking nine miles to<br />

the union hall each day until I get<br />

a job, but I finally got one - and<br />

holes in my shoes ," he chuckles.<br />

" I was in the armed forces too,<br />

in British Columbia, Manitoba,<br />

and three years in Germany.<br />

" I grew up in Lawn . As a boy<br />

I never seemed to have enough<br />

time to do everything. You'd<br />

come home from school, do the<br />

garden, the hay, Ihe fish, drive<br />

the cow home and even pick blueberries<br />

along the way . We were<br />

happy . We had everything and<br />

Gertie Lambe<br />

ed to bus our kids to the new<br />

DREE school in Sl. Lawrence.<br />

They said our Holy Name was in<br />

need <strong>of</strong> repair and that if our chil-<br />

DECKS AWASH - 43<br />

yet we weren 't rich . We didn 't<br />

have big cars but we always had<br />

something In eat and drink. Al<br />

Christmas you'd have a quarter<br />

<strong>of</strong> meat hanging out the upstairs<br />

window and you'd have your cabbage<br />

buried out in the garden in<br />

an earth house . Now boy, things<br />

have changed!"<br />

A bil <strong>of</strong> the philosopher<br />

emerges in Fred.<br />

"President Kennedy said it<br />

best : •...ask not what your country<br />

can do for you; ask what you<br />

can do for your country '. Perhaps<br />

that's what people should be<br />

doing. " IJl<br />

dren went to St. Lawrence they<br />

would gel a beller educalion because<br />

the facilities were better.<br />

But that was only a bluff. Our<br />

children had been going on to<br />

university and becoming doctors<br />

and nurses and lawyers just the<br />

same as students from other high<br />

schools. "<br />

The parents in Lawn had their<br />

own suspicions about why the<br />

Board wanted to close the local<br />

school. Gertie also had a few<br />

ideas on the decision.<br />

" They buill that new school<br />

bigger than it needed to be," she<br />

says. "And when they didn'l have<br />

enough students from St.<br />

Lawrence they decided to take<br />

our crowd and put them in it to


44 - DECKS AWASH<br />

justify building it so big. But none<br />

<strong>of</strong> them would ever admit to it.<br />

They just kept giving us the same<br />

reasons and we weren 't going to<br />

accept them ."<br />

There wer e se vera l reasons<br />

why Gertie did not want her two<br />

sons , Blaine and Brian travelling<br />

to St. Lawrence. She sa ys they<br />

learned their lesson about losing<br />

the school in a community when<br />

they lived in Roundabout which<br />

was between Lawn and Lord 's<br />

Cove.<br />

"One year they started sending<br />

the Roundabout high school studenls<br />

in here to Lawn for school,"<br />

she recalls . "The next year it was<br />

the Grade 7s and 85, and then<br />

they closed the school altogether.<br />

The next thing we knew the whole<br />

community was resettled. That<br />

was in 1968. I'll tell you [wouldn 't<br />

want to live here if ther e was no<br />

school. "<br />

Busing was a nother reason<br />

many parents decided to fight the<br />

decision . They believed it was too<br />

dangerous having the students<br />

travel over the highway to St.<br />

Lawrence during the winter.<br />

"It's not that far a ride , but in<br />

Lord's Cove<br />

Back home<br />

T<br />

he ten kilometres <strong>of</strong> unpaved<br />

road that connects Lawn and<br />

Lord's Cove undulates over the<br />

treeless barrens giving an uninterrupted<br />

view <strong>of</strong> the craggy<br />

coastline. Descending the last<br />

dusty incline, the road suddenly<br />

becomes paved again a nd leads<br />

into Lord 's Cove, a collection <strong>of</strong><br />

houses neatly tucked into a protected<br />

hay. Wefound Wayne Fitzpatrick,<br />

31, in a red , woolen shirt<br />

splitting wood by the side <strong>of</strong> his<br />

house . Wayne is mayor <strong>of</strong> Lord 's<br />

Cove and lives right beside the<br />

council building . Wayne happil y<br />

abandoned. his wood-splitting and<br />

took us into his warm <strong>of</strong>fice .<br />

"There was a nice bit <strong>of</strong> fish<br />

here this year," says Wayne .<br />

"Three trap boat crews operate<br />

from here and about 20 dories .<br />

Our sailfish plant was oper ating<br />

under H.8 . Dawe and the y em-<br />

the winter the road just isn't kept<br />

plowed enough. It's always open<br />

from Marystown to St. Lawrence<br />

but from here to St. Lawrence it's<br />

not. There'd be too many times<br />

when they couldn 't get over the<br />

road and it's not the safest trip to<br />

make even when you ca n get over<br />

it."<br />

The school committee or ­<br />

ganized picket lines which stood<br />

24 hours . The high school student<br />

s were then sent to St .<br />

Lawrence but many parents kept<br />

their chi ldre n out <strong>of</strong> school that<br />

year in protest.<br />

"We were that adamant that<br />

we stood out in the snow all night<br />

long at times ," Gertie continues .<br />

" Wewere afraid they 'd go in and<br />

take the supplies out <strong>of</strong> the school<br />

so we always had some people<br />

there. There were only two or<br />

thr ee families here that weren 't<br />

on our side. Everyone else<br />

helped .<br />

" We wrote letters to the school<br />

hoard , Archhishop Penney, Lynn<br />

Verge - everyone we could think<br />

<strong>of</strong>. We also went to the Board<br />

<strong>of</strong>fice in Burin for meetings and<br />

to St . John 's. Some <strong>of</strong> the pick-<br />

Wayne Fitzpalrick<br />

ployed about 20 men . The fishermen<br />

sell to the plant. Inside they<br />

split, wash , and salt it then leave<br />

it for a week or two until H.B.<br />

Dawe com es out and carries it<br />

eters were bonded to keep the<br />

peace and some were arrested.<br />

They never got the chance to get<br />

me though . You should have seen<br />

it. They flew in Mounties by<br />

helicopter from all over . You'd<br />

never know but there was a bank<br />

robbery going on the way they<br />

came in"<br />

Gertie says there were some<br />

unpleasant incidents. Some peopie<br />

started throwing eggs at the<br />

bus and the parents as they put<br />

their children on the bus.<br />

"There was no need <strong>of</strong> that,"<br />

she says. "We didn 't approve <strong>of</strong><br />

that at all . If some parents wanted<br />

to send their children to 51.<br />

Lawrence, that was their dectsioo<br />

and we didn 't want to interfere.<br />

" But we won in the end. I credit<br />

Father John Maddigan with helping<br />

us. After he came here he<br />

went to the Board and then it was<br />

decided to leave the school open .<br />

They spent close to $200,000 fixing<br />

up the school.<br />

"I'd do it all over again. I believe<br />

that a community needs a<br />

school. A community just dies<br />

when the school is taken away"<br />

away. The plant opened the end<br />

<strong>of</strong> May and I suppose it was<br />

finished the end <strong>of</strong> september.<br />

"We have about 30 people here<br />

work in fish plants at Fortune and<br />

Marystown. They travel back<br />

and forth each day . The return<br />

trip is about 80 miles and they<br />

leave at six in the morning and<br />

get back at six in the evening. A<br />

little hus takes about 15 to Fortune,<br />

the others go by car to<br />

Marystown . I work in the plant at<br />

Fortune, but the draggennen<br />

went out on strikeso there's been<br />

no fish since July. We get our unemployment<br />

and the draggermen<br />

get their strike pay .<br />

"We had some Canada Worlts<br />

projects this year. Ten men were<br />

employed for 12weeks repairing<br />

the Community Centre and we<br />

had a summer project that employed<br />

8 students for 6 weeks


46 - DECKS AWASH<br />

man in just about every day. The<br />

main thing is groceries, but we<br />

carry other things in case people<br />

might want them. But you don't<br />

really know what will sell. You<br />

look at it and think somebody<br />

should buy it. but not everybody<br />

has the same taste as you,<br />

There's always a lot <strong>of</strong> stuff that<br />

just doesn't move. We've probably<br />

had some things here six or<br />

twelve months.<br />

..At least everybody needs<br />

food. Even if times are really bad<br />

people have to eat, so you seldom<br />

get stuck with food."<br />

Lord's Cove has no bank, so<br />

Anne finds herself acting as one<br />

at times.<br />

"Some people may pay their<br />

bill with a big fish check, then I<br />

have to drive to S1. Lawrence or<br />

Grand Bank to deposit it. We<br />

have no doctor or dentist here<br />

either, soyou have to get to them,<br />

although the doctor will make a<br />

house call if somebody is<br />

bedridden.<br />

"The school is at Lamaline, but<br />

that's not so bad with the school<br />

bus. We can't complain. It's nice<br />

Taylor's Bay<br />

Helping himself<br />

"T here used to be more pe0ple<br />

here years ago," says<br />

GordonHillier, 64,<strong>of</strong> Taylor's Bay.<br />

"But people are looking for work<br />

these days. There's no work here<br />

and they're moved everywhere ...<br />

the mainland, the States, St.<br />

Jam's."<br />

That, in fact, is what Gordon<br />

did when he was 20 years old. He<br />

went to St. John's and got a job in<br />

the dietary department at the<br />

Waterford Hospital. His wife<br />

Elizabeth, from St. Jones Within.<br />

Trinity Bay, also worked at the<br />

hospital. Gordon worked there for<br />

25 years but in 1981 got tired <strong>of</strong><br />

city life, took early retirement<br />

and moved back to Taylor's Bay.<br />

"I had to buy my wife a horse<br />

to get her to come," he says with<br />

a smile.<br />

"That's right," Elizabeth<br />

here.<br />

"Did my parents have a store?<br />

No, neither Tom's parents nor<br />

mine did. we were silly enough to<br />

get into it," says Anne with a<br />

laugh.<br />

Lord's Cove<br />

agrees with a laugh. "( told him<br />

I wasn't coming unless I could<br />

have a pony and that's what I got.<br />

Nowyou wouldn't get me to leave<br />

here. I love it."<br />

But what makes the Hilliers<br />

able toadjust to living in so small<br />

a community after living in a<br />

large centre for so many years?<br />

Taylor's Bay has no store, post<br />

<strong>of</strong>fice or even a community building.<br />

There are only a few houses<br />

belonging to people who stayed on<br />

after most <strong>of</strong> the others left.<br />

"I can do a bit <strong>of</strong> work to help<br />

myself without anyone pushing<br />

me," explains Gordon. "Don't get<br />

me wrong nO'N. I'm a worker and<br />

I'm always busy. But I'm my cwn<br />

boss. I grow potatoes, carrots, turnips,<br />

cabbage _.. I have two<br />

gardens. I cut my own wood and<br />

dig my own turf - what you call<br />

U you are a tourist passing<br />

Anne's store, drop in. Over on the<br />

far wall she still has some "cabhage<br />

patch" dolls. Unless the<br />

news has got around, you may be<br />

able to buy one. I!<br />

peat moss - to heat my house.<br />

We use a drop <strong>of</strong> oil, but not<br />

much. And I can put something<br />

down here without worrying if<br />

someone will take it."<br />

Gordon ownsa pickup truck but<br />

uses his horse to haul wood and<br />

peat moss, as well as kelp, which<br />

he uses to fertilize his gardens.<br />

"You might say I'm too foolish<br />

to use the truck," he jokes. "But<br />

sometimes I even lug things on<br />

my own back because.it's too<br />

much bother tohitch up the horse.<br />

It's born into me, I guess, and I<br />

can't change.<br />

"When I was growing up here,<br />

we had a wheelbarrow and were<br />

considered lucky. But back then<br />

everyone was the same. It was the<br />

Depression, there was no work,<br />

and nobody had anything over the<br />

next fellow. We had to get Relief


ut worked to get what we could .<br />

I started fishing with my father<br />

when I was nine and kept at that<br />

a good many years. We had our<br />

vegetable gardens, too, and my<br />

father kept a good many cattle.<br />

Today there's all classes 01people<br />

out here all according to il they<br />

are working and what they are<br />

working at. It's not the same at<br />

all ."<br />

Still, although living in Taylnr's<br />

Bay enables Gordon to live the<br />

way be wants to, he says there is<br />

something missing {rom when he<br />

was growing up here.<br />

"There used tobehousesdown<br />

by the water there. They were on<br />

8 bogand we would have to walk<br />

around by the shore to get out.<br />

There was never all that many<br />

homes but there were lots <strong>of</strong> pe0ple.<br />

Wehad a big crowd 01young<br />

people here when I was growing<br />

up. Yousee, everybody had big families.<br />

Wehad a school and there<br />

was also an Anglican church at<br />

that lime. Most 01the people were<br />

Bmnells or Hilliers and there was<br />

one family <strong>of</strong> Woodlands. Now<br />

there're only a lew houses lelt and<br />

Blueberry Squares<br />

3 tsp. butter<br />

'h cup sugar<br />

2 egg yolks<br />

% cup flour<br />

1 tsp . baking powder<br />

1/4tsp . salt<br />

If.. cup milk<br />

1 tsp . vanilla<br />

Cream butter andsugar. Beat in<br />

egg yolks, then add sifted dry ingredients<br />

alternately with milk<br />

and vanilla . Pour into a greased<br />

s-inch square pan and bake 18 to<br />

20 minutes at 350'.<br />

Topping:<br />

2 egg whites<br />

6 tsp. sugar<br />

1I.. tsp . salt<br />

1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries<br />

Beat egg whites until peaked .<br />

Beat in sugar and salt. Then fold<br />

the blueberries into the meringue<br />

and spread over baked cake portion.<br />

Bake until golden brown for<br />

12 to 15 minutes .<br />

Elizabeth and Gordon Hillier with grandson Bobby , 2.<br />

the people left here JlOW'are mostly<br />

my age."<br />

When Gordon left Taylor 's Bay<br />

he had gone only to Grade 3. He<br />

had dilliculty in school because<br />

his eyesight was very poor and<br />

they couldn 't get glasses lor him.<br />

"But it was different in those<br />

days ," he cautions. "I worked<br />

hard to get a job and keep one.<br />

And sometimes I felt bad when 1<br />

couldn't understand things because<br />

I didn't get far in school.<br />

But 1 always got by. Thday it's<br />

different. Kids today have got to<br />

have an education to get a job<br />

worth having. Youcan't get by on<br />

OECKS AWASH - 47<br />

just hard work anymore. School<br />

is important. "<br />

Gordon has two children still at<br />

home and a grandchild as well<br />

living with them. He and<br />

' Elizabeth bought a small house<br />

when they returned but they<br />

bought it lor the land. They hope<br />

to build a new house in the near<br />

future so they wiH have a comfortable<br />

home for their<br />

retirement.<br />

"When you get a certain age<br />

you want to come home," concludes<br />

Gordon. "It's nice and<br />

quiet here and that's what I wanted<br />

- a quiet place to live," "


50 - DECKS AWASH<br />

Lamaline<br />

Land loss at Lamaline<br />

T he community <strong>of</strong> LamalineIits western end Allan 's Island<br />

spreads in a wide , flat cres- which is connected by a half-mile<br />

cent around a broad harbor about causeway. The houses form an<br />

one mile in breadth. It includes at almost continuous single line<br />

SOLD AND SERVICED BY:<br />

"BECAUSE PROFITABILITY STARTS IN<br />

YOUR ENGINE ROOM."<br />

•<br />

YOUR rn CAT.RPILLAR DEALER<br />

IN NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR<br />

ST. JOHN'S 722·5660 • GRAND FALLS 489·2131<br />

CORNER BROOK 634-8258 • GOOSE BAY 896-5864<br />

A Dlviaion <strong>of</strong>:<br />

NEWFOUNDLAND TRACTC?:R AND EQUIP. CO. LTD.<br />

along the community's one road.<br />

In North Lamaline most <strong>of</strong> the<br />

houses are on the land side <strong>of</strong> the<br />

road for at high tide the ocean<br />

r---------------------, I floods across the shallow harbor<br />

and approaches the road . One<br />

man who owns property on the<br />

seaward side is mayor Leslie<br />

Lovell who operates the community<br />

's only service station.<br />

"In 10 years we've lost 4Sfeet<br />

<strong>of</strong> land from behind the garage<br />

here, " says Les ."We' ve been trying<br />

to get something done about<br />

it for years. When the tide's out<br />

the whole harbor is a mass <strong>of</strong><br />

boulders. We would like to get<br />

something to push them back<br />

towards the shore and protect the<br />

land from further deterioration.<br />

" We have another problem at<br />

the west end <strong>of</strong> the community.<br />

There's about 13houses that get<br />

flooded during the winter storms.<br />

We've had to take people out DC<br />

their homes by tour-wheel-drive<br />

and by grader several times.<br />

With four feet <strong>of</strong> water and the<br />

tide and wind, we've had some<br />

difficulties getting people out at


54 _ DECKS AWASH<br />

PointMay<br />

Waiting for the boom<br />

"Tenyears ago there wasno<br />

sense applying for a<br />

Canada Works grant in Point May<br />

because no one needed the jobs ,"<br />

says Piercey 1I01l0'0"'ay, mayor <strong>of</strong><br />

the community. "Everybody was<br />

working and yoo couldn 't get pe0ple<br />

to lake the jobs , Thday, that<br />

has all changed. We've had a bout<br />

60jobs provided through one type<br />

<strong>of</strong> grant or another over the past<br />

year and there 's aJways been<br />

three or four men applying for<br />

each job. With the number <strong>of</strong> unemployed<br />

because <strong>of</strong> strikes. lay<strong>of</strong>fs<br />

and closures, you have to use<br />

those grants as a stop-gap meas ­<br />

ure to keep people going ."<br />

The same thin g has happened<br />

with regard to the development<br />

association in the area according<br />

to Piercey. He remembers a time<br />

when the Greater Lamaline De- Piercey Holloway with a sample <strong>of</strong> their<br />

velopment Association almost hope lor the future- peal moss<br />

folded because <strong>of</strong> lack <strong>of</strong> interest.<br />

"At one meeting we couldn 't nated to fill nine positions. The ineven<br />

get enough people to run to terest is high because <strong>of</strong> the hard<br />

fill the posts on the executive. We economic times . Let's face it,<br />

just had our election <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>ficers that's when you need crganizafor<br />

the Point May local awhile tions like the development associback.<br />

There were 22 people nomi- ations the most."<br />

The new community wharf at Pie Duck Cove.<br />

Although the grants obtained in<br />

Point May provide only ternporary<br />

...vork for a small number<br />

<strong>of</strong> people, each <strong>of</strong> the programs<br />

has been put to good use in the<br />

conununity. Work has included<br />

upgrading the community<br />

pasture and the baseball diamood,<br />

cleaning up the cemetery,<br />

completing the first phase <strong>of</strong><br />

building a wading pool beside the<br />

Point May Brook, and repairs to<br />

the community hall through a<br />

New Horizons grant sponsored by<br />

the senior citizens ' club.<br />

''The Fishermen's Committee<br />

also sponsored a grant to move<br />

the wharf," adds Piercey. "The<br />

beach down in our cove is what<br />

we call a 'live' beach because the<br />

ground under it is not solid. Every<br />

time we have a storm the<br />

beach can change by as much as<br />

100 feet and the slipway, wharf<br />

and boats were constantly being<br />

damaged. The fishermen got a<br />

grant <strong>of</strong> $80,000to move the community<br />

wharf to Pie Duck Cove<br />

about three or four miles up the<br />

coast. There's about 15 dories<br />

fishing out <strong>of</strong> there - no Iongliners."<br />

The people <strong>of</strong> Point May have<br />

recently added their own fire<br />

brigade to the list <strong>of</strong> community<br />

services. They are affiliated with<br />

the brigade in Lamaline and<br />

together are responsible for<br />

Lord's Cove, Point au Gaul,<br />

Lamaline and Point May.<br />

"We have one truck and they<br />

have two in Lamaline," says Piercey.<br />

" It took us a year-and-a-haU<br />

to raise the money - we had to<br />

put up 25 per cent <strong>of</strong> the total<br />

$38,000 required to buy the truck<br />

and equipment. The provincial<br />

government put up the other 75<br />

per cent. Wehave two pumps and<br />

equipment for 10 men at a time.<br />

There's a total <strong>of</strong> 17 volunteers<br />

here and 18 in Lamaline,"<br />

Piercey says the fire brigade<br />

was a necessity because some <strong>of</strong>


ottom up in rough seas and I<br />

climbed on top <strong>of</strong> her and put my<br />

arm through the plug trap rope<br />

and the mate grabbed hold to my<br />

boot. And then there was nothing<br />

to00but wait till someone saw us.<br />

Wedidn't die but we come paddy<br />

keefe to it."<br />

J oseph and his mate were<br />

taken ashore at Three Fathom<br />

Harbour and treated for frostbite<br />

by a local doctor . As lor the boat,<br />

Joseph says the insurance cornpany<br />

declared her a wreck . She<br />

was put on auction and the man<br />

who bought her refloated her and<br />

found her to be seaworthy.<br />

" I had been at it a few years by<br />

that time," he continues. "My<br />

father was a ship's carpenter and<br />

he went to 51. Pierre to work on<br />

the docks. He lound it pretty good<br />

so he came back to Point May<br />

and carried us over there. I was<br />

13 the n and went to school first<br />

when I got there. But by the lime<br />

I was 14 I had my first job as a<br />

sea man on a ship in the rumrunning<br />

. I was at it for 16 years IJe..<br />

fore I gave it up and came back<br />

here. The ships were all owned by<br />

big shots in the States and gangst<br />

ers like Legs Diamond. I didn't<br />

work for him but I was at it when<br />

he was over in St. Pierre. They<br />

shot him coming out <strong>of</strong> a drugstor<br />

e in New York City ... put 58<br />

machin e-gun bullets into him. I<br />

was still in St. Pier re at the time<br />

and that's how I heard about it."<br />

Joseph says when he first started<br />

they used the big two-and<br />

three -masted bankers for the<br />

rumrunning trade. But around<br />

1926 when the business really bega<br />

n in earnest, the bankers were<br />

replaced with modern power<br />

boats which could carry 3,000<br />

cases <strong>of</strong> liquor.<br />

"And on the American coast<br />

we'd have 6O-100t speed-boats<br />

with five red-wing airplane engines<br />

in them to take the liquor to<br />

sho re. And don 't think they<br />

couldn't go. We'd meet 011the<br />

coast in the nighttime and you'd<br />

go with no lights on. But after<br />

awhile the authorities got just as<br />

smart as you were . They built<br />

boats like ours so they could turn<br />

faster and pick you up in a<br />

searchlight and all this type 01ex-<br />

ercise."<br />

When he was 17, Joseph was<br />

caught by the American authorities.<br />

That was the first <strong>of</strong> three<br />

times.<br />

"Nothing ever happened to us<br />

though, " he says . " I spent 17days<br />

in jail in the States once , but the<br />

company had lawyers hired to do<br />

aU the talking for you and you<br />

just got sent home to do it all over<br />

again.<br />

"That first time we still had<br />

half a load <strong>of</strong> liquor on board and<br />

they towed us into Boston. There<br />

was no court set up for laying<br />

charges then. They took our boat<br />

and the liquor and sent us home.<br />

The owners bought a new boat<br />

and we went right back at it."<br />

But it wasn't only the rumrunners<br />

who experienced the excitement<br />

<strong>of</strong> the times . Madeline<br />

remembers many incidents with<br />

the trade right in Point May.<br />

"When they were rumrunning,<br />

come a big storm and you were<br />

sure to see a ship come in that<br />

cove," she explains . 'When I was<br />

a young girl still in school a ship<br />

called the Berevielle came<br />

ashore. She was carrying half<br />

genera] cargo, and half liquor<br />

from France to St. Pierre. Come<br />

a gail wind here along the land<br />

and blew all her sails away. She<br />

was blown ashore and wrecked.<br />

My father had two barns - one<br />

big enoogh to keep 15 head 01cat-<br />

Joseph Stacey<br />

tie. They took out the cattle and<br />

shifted them to the small stable.<br />

The big one was packed full from<br />

top to bottom with liquor . There<br />

were two big stores down on<br />

Bowring's Beach and they were<br />

packed full and there must have<br />

been 50 puncheons <strong>of</strong> wine<br />

besides."<br />

Madeline remembers a Constable<br />

Lee came from Grand Bank<br />

to guard the shipment while they<br />

waited for the men to come from<br />

St. Pierre and take the liquor<br />

away .<br />

"In those days people here used<br />

to take cattle and sheep over to<br />

St. Pierre in their dories ," says<br />

Madeline . " And they'd get their<br />

liquor while they were there ­<br />

just shove oCf and get their drop.<br />

But that wreck was just before<br />

Christmas and there wasn't anybody<br />

who had to go to St. Pierre<br />

to get their drop that year.<br />

But both Madeline and Joseph<br />

have long since settled into a less<br />

exciting way <strong>of</strong> life in Point May.<br />

Still they look hack on the days 01<br />

rumrunning with fondness and a<br />

certain amount <strong>of</strong> amazement.<br />

"You know I made $1!KX> in nine<br />

days one time when I was rumrunning<br />

." remembers Joseph.<br />

" And that was some lot <strong>of</strong> money<br />

in those days ."<br />

"Yes ," agrees Madeline. teasing<br />

him . "They made it fast and<br />

spent it just as fast. " l!I


features<br />

Home gardening<br />

By: Ross Traverse<br />

Q: I have a Christmas Cactus which does not<br />

flower at Christmas. but sometimes [lowers<br />

later in the winter. How can I get it to blossom<br />

at Christmastime?<br />

A: 10 encourage the Christmas Cactus to flower;<br />

it should be placed in a cool place in July and<br />

August. Water and foodshould be withheld at<br />

that time. The leaves Conned in early summer<br />

will harden orr and buds will be formed. In<br />

september provide a temperature <strong>of</strong> around<br />

15'C and water very sparingly. As the buds develop.<br />

gradually increase water. When the<br />

plant is flcwering. it should not be moved until<br />

all the blossoms have dropped.<br />

Some people place the Christmas Cactus<br />

plants in the pot outside during the summer.<br />

When the cool weather sets in during the rail,<br />

the plant will naturally set Hewer buds. Make<br />

sure it is taken inside before there is a frost.<br />

Q: Every year we cut a Balsam Fir for a Christmas<br />

tree. Is it possible to grow a Christmas<br />

tree and use it year after year?<br />

A: Yes, it is possible, in fact, in some places live<br />

Christmas trees in pots are sold. You can get<br />

a young Balsam Fir tree potted up into a container,<br />

i.e., a to-gallon tub. The tree should be<br />

grown outside for a few years and when it is<br />

about four feet tall you should start to prune<br />

it. Youremove the outside tips <strong>of</strong> the branches<br />

in the spring. This will cause the tree to<br />

branch and become very bushy. It may take<br />

seven or eight years to get a a-rt. tree. This tree<br />

may be left outside and then just brought in<br />

at Christmastime. Of course it is important<br />

that it should never dry out. One advantage <strong>of</strong><br />

a natural live tree is that it won't lose its needles<br />

Jike one that is cut. As soon as Christmas<br />

is over you should take the tree out and let it<br />

get adjusted to the outside temperatures<br />

again.<br />

DECKS AWASH - 61<br />

Q: Some <strong>of</strong> my neighbors wrap their evergreen<br />

trees in plastic to protect them. Is this a good<br />

idea?<br />

A: No, definitely not. Plastic should not be used<br />

to protect outside plants during the winter.<br />

When the sun shines on plastic, even during<br />

the winter, it would get too warm inside and<br />

cause the pJant to break dormancy. This means<br />

that the buds may open and then with severe<br />

frost, could damage the tree or shrub. If<br />

you feel it is necessary to wrap a tree or shrub,<br />

then burlap is the best material to use. You<br />

should always use some material that is<br />

porous that will allow the air to circulate. My<br />

idea with outside plants is just to protect them<br />

from damage bysnow. A properly pruned and<br />

healthy tree usually won't need any protection<br />

other than support when it is very small.<br />

Q: How should I care for my Poinsettia after<br />

Christmas in order to keep it as long as<br />

possible?<br />

A: An important point to remember about Poinsettias<br />

is that they need a constant supply <strong>of</strong><br />

moisture. Never let them dry out. Also be<br />

careful, however, that you don't everwater<br />

them for this can cause damage. If you keep<br />

your Poinsettia plant in a cool part <strong>of</strong> the<br />

house away from heaters, then it will maintain<br />

its color much longer. Poinsettias can be kept<br />

growing and forced into color for next year.<br />

This is done by keeping the plant under shortday<br />

conditions during September (with a-hour<br />

span <strong>of</strong> light). Then the plant wilJdevelop the<br />

red color in its top leaves. It should be fed<br />

regularly a diluted solution <strong>of</strong> 20-20-20 every<br />

two weeks.<br />

Q: How should I protect my rock garden plants<br />

during the winter?<br />

A: Evergreen boughs several layers thick is probably<br />

one <strong>of</strong> the best methods <strong>of</strong> protection for<br />

perennial rock garden plants. Youhave to be<br />

careful that the rock garden is in a location<br />

so that the water drains away. Any ice that<br />

forms will kill the plants. The boughs should<br />

not be placed on the bed <strong>of</strong> the rock garden<br />

until the ground is frozen. This would probably<br />

be in late November. The boughs should<br />

be removed as soon as the ground starts to<br />

thaw in the spring. .,


62 - DECKS AWAS H<br />

Audubon Christmas Bir d Count<br />

T<br />

his year marks the 85th Christmas Bird Count<br />

in Atlantic Canada and plans are underway<br />

to hold as many as ten counts here in <strong>Newfoundland</strong>.<br />

The first count is expected to be undertaken<br />

on December 15,with the final count taking place<br />

on December 31. Counts will take place throughout<br />

the island part <strong>of</strong> the province with a new count<br />

set for the Codroy Valley in western <strong>Newfoundland</strong>.<br />

The aim is to count all the birds in the ts-mue<br />

diameter count circle so as to have an idea <strong>of</strong> the<br />

wintering population . Changes over the years can<br />

then be studied to assist in wildlife protection and<br />

habitat management. The mast important benefit,<br />

however, is to <strong>of</strong>fer participants a most enjoyable<br />

day in the outdoors. Counts in urban areas also<br />

include " feeder " birds, so those who have to stay<br />

at borne on count day can also contribute. Most<br />

<strong>of</strong> the counts also feature an evening get-together<br />

to enjoy a warm snack and perhaps tell stories<br />

about the birds that were missed.<br />

Anyone interested in birds is invited to take part<br />

in these counts. The only requirements are access<br />

to transportation to and from the count area, a<br />

willingness to endure whatever weather conditions<br />

are encountered and a little experience in<br />

bird identification. Efforts are made to match novices<br />

with count veterans and eac h count has a<br />

compiler who allocates coverage and tallies up<br />

numbers for late publication in American Birds.<br />

The wreck <strong>of</strong> the Evelyn<br />

I<br />

n the winter <strong>of</strong> 1913,the schooner Evelyn, under<br />

Captain Burke, was en route from Pernambuco,<br />

Brazil to S1. John's, <strong>Newfoundland</strong>. On 20 December<br />

1912,the weather deteriorated and by the morning <strong>of</strong><br />

Saturday, January 4, the wind reached hurricane<br />

force.<br />

At 4 p.m ., January 6, Cape Pine was sighted only to<br />

be quickly obliterated in a blinding snowstorm. Captain<br />

Burke headed to sea but the ship received a fearful<br />

bashing .....ith waves frequently breaking on board. Not<br />

until 5:30 p.m . the next day was Cape Pine safely<br />

passed<br />

The wind increased with sea spray freezing on deck<br />

until hull and rigging were under several inches <strong>of</strong> ice.<br />

Il became impossible to handle the running gear and<br />

with decks constantly awash the crew were in risk <strong>of</strong><br />

their lives . Tuesday night was miserable and anxious<br />

for all on board .<br />

Wednesday found.the ship north <strong>of</strong> Bay Bulls about<br />

four miles <strong>of</strong>f shore . In desperation the houseflag was<br />

raised in the hope that Bay Bulls or Cape Spear migh'<br />

send out a tug, but to DO avail. At 7 p.m . a snowstorm<br />

The cost <strong>of</strong> publication is met by a nominal fee<br />

from each participant.<br />

Tentative dates and contracts are listed below:<br />

Cape Race, Dec . 22; Cape St. Mary's, Dec. t5;<br />

St. John 's, Dec. 26: John Wells, MUN Department<br />

<strong>of</strong> Psychology, St. Jo hn's, NF AlB 3X9, 737-7668.<br />

Codroy Valley, Dec. 22; Gros Morne, Dec. 28;<br />

St. Paul's, Dec. 29: Blake Maylark, Gras Morne<br />

National Park, Rocky Hr., NF AOK 4NO,458-2417.<br />

Corner Brook, Dec . rl: Alan Burger, 73 Central<br />

St., Corner Brook, NF , A2H 2M7, 634-1439.<br />

Terra Nova , Dec. 17: Roger Burrows, 21Bellas!<br />

St., St. John's, NF, AlB 2G5, 753-8862 or Hank<br />

Deichman, Terra Nova, NF via Glovertown, NF<br />

AOG2LO,533-2801.<br />

L'Anse-aux-Meadows, Dec. 31; St. Anthony,<br />

Dec . 30: Bruce MacTanish, ApI. 311, 20 SI. Laurent<br />

St., SI. John's, NF 737-7668. "'<br />

began as the barometer plummeted.<br />

By midnight the lights <strong>of</strong> the coast were obscured<br />

with a gale from the southeast driving the Evelyn<br />

towards land. To save his vessel, Captain Burke headed<br />

south on double reefed mainsail, foresail , and jib.<br />

By 6 a.m . Thursday, all were tom to ribbons. With virtually<br />

no canvas the ship was completely at the mercy<br />

<strong>of</strong> the elements.<br />

By extreme effort the ship was hove to and allowed to<br />

wallow in the troughs <strong>of</strong> the sea, but still waves swept<br />

all moveable objects from her decks. Heavy wtth wet<br />

ice and snow the ship was quite out <strong>of</strong> hand. Then at 9<br />

a.m. a steamer was sighted. Distress signals were<br />

hoisted .<br />

The steamer proved to be the Bellavenfure under<br />

Captain Cross who gallantly <strong>of</strong>fered to send out a small<br />

rescue boat, but Captain Burke reluctantly declined<br />

because no small boat could survive in such waters.<br />

1be Bellaventure lett for 81. John's.<br />

The snow cleared and the ship continued until Cape<br />

Broyle .....as sighted. Being under bare poles there was<br />

no way to weather the Cape so the ship was ron into


64 _ DECKS AWASH<br />

and our published research has gained a national<br />

and international reputation.<br />

For a moment, Ray, who grew up in Harbour<br />

Main, Conception Bay, reflects on the last 20years<br />

in the province.<br />

"Up until the '60s most communities had a society<br />

that was controlled either by the clergy, the<br />

merchant, or the teacher. The men were out fishing,<br />

in the woods, or mining. Families were too<br />

busy keeping body and soul together to have much<br />

time for anything else.<br />

"But with universal education and radio and<br />

TV, people became more aware. They had time.<br />

But you've got to remember that weas <strong>Newfoundland</strong>ers<br />

have not been accustomed to having anything<br />

to say about what goes on. During<br />

Commission <strong>of</strong> Government days everything was<br />

out <strong>of</strong> our hands. And we have tended to be skeptical<br />

<strong>of</strong> the effectiveness <strong>of</strong> anything we might be<br />

able to do. We have the attitude that no matter<br />

how much say we have, it's not likely to have any<br />

effect anyway.<br />

"But that simply isn't so. People can decide for<br />

themselves and these decisions can work both for<br />

the community and the developers."<br />

Ray has talked to various groups on the West<br />

Coast about the potential onshore drilling on the<br />

Northern Peninsula because the provincial<br />

government was aware that some oil drilling companies<br />

were interested in the onshore potential <strong>of</strong><br />

the region.<br />

"Both the Parson's Pond and the Bay St.<br />

George-Stephenville areas formed committees to<br />

look into the potential for onshore drilling. The<br />

Parson's Pond area committee had over 35 community<br />

organizations involved."<br />

Ray suggests we talk to George Payne, chair-<br />

Georglt Payne<br />

Ray HllWCO<br />

man <strong>of</strong> the Oil and Gas Steering Committee <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Parson's Pond area because this is an example <strong>of</strong><br />

true community involvement.<br />

When contacted, George Payne talks enthusiasticaUy<br />

about their activities.<br />

"I've been interested in the onshore potential<br />

ever since 1966when I was involved with the Parson's<br />

Pond Community Council," says George. "I<br />

think I must have talked to every energy minister<br />

since that time.<br />

"Leo Barry, the former energy minister, was<br />

very helpful and I went to Ottawa to find out what<br />

the federal government could do. We formed a<br />

committee and asked the Petroleum Directorate<br />

to provide guidelines."<br />

Overall, George is pleased withthe input <strong>of</strong> the<br />

committee but is understandably disappointed<br />

that the companies decided not to explore the<br />

area. Interested in providing employment in the<br />

west coast area, George is President <strong>of</strong> Parson's<br />

Pond Seafoods.<br />

"Amos Payne, Fraser Keough and I look after<br />

the fish plant where we process all types <strong>of</strong> fish.<br />

We employ about 60 people directly in the plant,<br />

but if you consider all those involved including<br />

truck drivers,loaders, and fishermen, I'd say we<br />

provide income for over 100. We've had a fair year<br />

but with prices so low, it's not been easy.<br />

"We need employment on the West Coast. I<br />

guess you could say we need employment all over<br />

<strong>Newfoundland</strong>. I just heard on the radio that<br />

80-90% <strong>of</strong> our West Coast young people are unemployed.<br />

If we could get something going with the<br />

onshore oil it would be a real boostto the economy.<br />

"I've been talking to energy minister Bill Mar-


66 - DECKS AWASH<br />

There wasn't much hauling to do as the trap was<br />

so full there wasn 't much twine to pull in. There<br />

was a haJf-dozen or more small boats in the vicinity<br />

which I heard the men refer to as "bumbers".<br />

Steve signalled them all to his trap and filled their<br />

boats with fish. Then he proceeded to fill three<br />

2O-qUintal bags with the remainder <strong>of</strong> the fish from<br />

the trap. The bagswere made<strong>of</strong> twine and the fish<br />

was transferred to them from the trap by lacing<br />

one to the other. I had a problem with the trap<br />

twine hooking into my boots . I don't see any <strong>of</strong> that<br />

type <strong>of</strong> boots or shoes nowadays.<br />

By the tim e all the fish was bagged, the sbades<br />

<strong>of</strong> night were falling and the start towards home<br />

was made with the three 2O-quintal bags in tow.<br />

The wind came up from the direction in which we<br />

were headed which slowed oor progressto a snail's<br />

pace. By midnight we managed to get back to Gibbons'<br />

stage head at the beach in St. Mary 's harbor.<br />

Fortunately, someone had seen us taking <strong>of</strong>f<br />

on the fishing trip ; otherwise, our parents would<br />

have been very much concerned over their two<br />

missing boys.<br />

10return for such an exciting evening, Aiden and<br />

I volunteered to assist at slowing away the fish .<br />

All concerned went home for a few hours' rest before<br />

starting the operation.<br />

When I arrived home my good mother had a piping<br />

hot meal for me which I thoroughly enjoyed .<br />

One can imagine what an appetite I had after being<br />

so long without eating - Steve and his men<br />

didn't anticipate such a large haul and expected<br />

to be home in just a few hours so they had very<br />

little food with them, and in any case, with all the<br />

fish they hadn 't had lime to eat anything.<br />

My mother agreed for me to assist at the fish<br />

Aunt's Soph's WPA meeting<br />

By Eric Young<br />

,T was about this time last year that we had<br />

the big fuss at the house . Here's what<br />

happened.<br />

The War was only a few months old when<br />

Grandmother was elected president <strong>of</strong> the Women's<br />

Patriotic Association, or WPA, as they called<br />

it. The first meeting was at our house , and. was<br />

doing my homework in the kitchen when the wornen<br />

piJed in, took <strong>of</strong>f their coats and went in the<br />

front room . Gran gaveout wool and needles which<br />

were soon clicking away, starting up mitts and<br />

socks for the men going overseas.<br />

Since it was the first meeting, and almost<br />

Christmas. Grandmother thought she would do it<br />

up proper, so she came out to the pantry and<br />

poured <strong>of</strong>f a big glass pitcher <strong>of</strong> Grandfather's<br />

blueberry wine, and with a tray <strong>of</strong> glasses went<br />

but insisted I sleep for a few hours first.<br />

It was almost noon when I woke and you can imagine<br />

how red my face was when I appeared at the<br />

fish stage and found the others had been there a<br />

few hours before me.f had to take quite a ribbing<br />

for being such a sleepyhead.<br />

It was late afternoon when all the fish was split,<br />

salted, etc , Steve and his crew starred oll again for<br />

another haul but neither Aiden nor I volunteered<br />

for another trip.<br />

This was my only experience at the fishing except<br />

for a trip with my relatives - the Daltons <strong>of</strong><br />

Cape Broyle - to their trap a couple <strong>of</strong> years later.<br />

Our catch on this occasion was only a few quintals<br />

and our boat was equipped with a motor engine,<br />

only recently installed. This was the first<br />

motor engine to come to cape Broyle and. was<br />

present in the room when my grandfather John<br />

Dalton closed the deal to purchase it from the<br />

salesman. Each year thereafter the fishermen <strong>of</strong><br />

Cape Broyle equipped their boatswith engines until<br />

every fisherman in the place possessed one.<br />

This first engine was installed by a man sent<br />

from the company that sold it. His assistant was<br />

my late cousin John Dalton, Jr., who learned how<br />

to install engines from this man. John installed 22<br />

engines for the fishermen <strong>of</strong> Cape Broyle after that<br />

without any charge which must be classed as a<br />

real community effort.<br />

I've yet to catch a codfish by my own efforts except<br />

to catch connors and flatfish from a stagehead<br />

in boyhood days, In latter years an odd meal<br />

<strong>of</strong> trout has beenthe extent <strong>of</strong> my fishing, although<br />

my Cape Sroyle relatives taught me how to cut<br />

throats, gut, head, split, salt, washout and dry cod<br />

on flakes. I!I<br />

back in the front room.<br />

Soon I began to hear giggles and laughs coming<br />

from the women and the clicking <strong>of</strong> the needles<br />

had stopped. They were really gelling loud<br />

when Grandfather comes in the back door, takes<br />

<strong>of</strong>f his coat and capand starts to fill his pipe, when<br />

he stops short.<br />

"Ed, what 's that racket going on in the front<br />

room? Sounds more like a randy than a meeting."<br />

"I don 't know, Grandfather," I says. " They<br />

were all knitting away until after Gran brought<br />

in a jug <strong>of</strong> your blueberry wine , and that's the way<br />

'tis been goin' ever since."<br />

Well, Grandlather almost burnt his fingers with<br />

his lit match, and his eyes opened wide.<br />

" Did you say blueberry wine? What the devil is<br />

Soph doing, doling out my blueberry wine three


68 - DECKS AWASH<br />

Budapest<br />

B)' Clifford Grinling<br />

T<br />

his summer- our vecetioning reporter<br />

trevelled to Budapest, llungsry, and beceuse<br />

it's not on the usual itinersry <strong>of</strong> most treveiiers<br />

from "'e"foundland, we think reeders might lind<br />

it interesting.<br />

Budapest is just two hours from London by Russian<br />

TU-l54B jet <strong>of</strong> the Hungarian State Airline ,<br />

MALEV. In-flight food is pork, salami, ham , cheddar<br />

and goat cheese . A basket <strong>of</strong> crusty bread rolls<br />

is passed around and the wine supply is liberal.<br />

There's little indication that Hungary is behind<br />

the Iron Curtain . True , an armed soldier guards<br />

the plane as we alight, but he is ignored by an old<br />

woman on an over-sized , ancient black bicycle<br />

who has pedalled from the terminal to sweep out<br />

the plane .<br />

The ride from the airport to Budapest in a Lada<br />

taxi is conducted at breakneck speed as the driver<br />

demonstrates his warrior horseman ancestry. The<br />

main highway is narrow by North American standards,<br />

the traffic light, the vehicles small . It's as<br />

if one has been transported back 20 years. Even<br />

the prices are yesterday's. The half-hour taxi ride<br />

to the hotel costs about six dollars.<br />

Budapest is old, majestic, and picturesque. It<br />

comprises the feudal town so Buda and Pest themselves<br />

built upon ancient Roman settlements. The<br />

Hungarians, originally a race <strong>of</strong> horse warriors<br />

from behind the Ural mountains, arrived here in<br />

896.Their warlike ways got them as far as Paris,<br />

but after some major military reversals they<br />

returned to Hungary and adopted the Slavic<br />

The chain link bridge and beyond it, Pest.<br />

methods <strong>of</strong> fanning, After being successively conquered<br />

or occupied by Tartars, Turks, Austrians,<br />

Germans and Russians, Budapest has today<br />

emerged as the capital <strong>of</strong> the Hungarian Socialist<br />

Republic, one <strong>of</strong> the most prosperous and, to<br />

western visitors, the most appealing <strong>of</strong> an the<br />

Parliament buildings with River Danube in foreground.


70 - DECKS AWASH<br />

<strong>of</strong> its currency through foreign trade so exports<br />

are vital. Seventy per cent <strong>of</strong> exports are agricultural,<br />

but there's an irony even in this. One particular<br />

kind <strong>of</strong> grain is exported to Italy to make<br />

pasta, but this leaves Hungary short, so it imports<br />

grain from Russia which, in turn, imports it from<br />

Canada. Other exports are ships, power generating<br />

equipment, pharmaceutical products, and<br />

computer s<strong>of</strong>tware. The popular Rubik's cube was<br />

invented by Mr. Rubik in Hungary.<br />

With six to eight million tourists visiting<br />

Budapest annually, tourism would appear to be<br />

a major generator <strong>of</strong> foreign currency, yet it<br />

seems to account for only four per cent <strong>of</strong> the gross<br />

national income. More important to the local pe0ple<br />

are tips from visitors . Where people earn 6000<br />

forints a month a tip <strong>of</strong> 50forints ($1U.S.) is considerable.<br />

Also, dollars command a high price on<br />

the black market. Stand in one spot for more than<br />

five minutes in a tourist district and you will be<br />

inevitably asked if you have dollars to sell. Since<br />

the blackmarket rate is twice the <strong>of</strong>ficial rate, the<br />

temptation to buy is strong, but it's illegal, It's also<br />

difficult to change forints back to dollars when you<br />

leave.<br />

Crime in Hungary is difficult to gauge but appears<br />

less widespread than in most Western countries.<br />

A guide at the Museum <strong>of</strong> Fine Arts<br />

apologized for the fact that criminals had taken<br />

six paintings a year ago. Such theft, apparently,<br />

was unusual. We later learned that in Italy the<br />

police are currently trying to trace over 100,000<br />

Restored buildings In Ihe old secucn <strong>of</strong> Buda.<br />

MlIleral baths at the Gellart Hotel. Budapest<br />

art items stolen from galleries c..;j"j museums.<br />

Litter on streets is non-existent; walking across<br />

town in the small hours a perfectly safe oecupation.<br />

Speeding cars appear to pose a danger to<br />

pedestrians but miraculously stop the instant your<br />

foot leaves the pavement. Apparently the state<br />

takes a very serious view <strong>of</strong> hitting pedestrians.<br />

Bureaucratic crime, we learned, was more<br />

common and ranged from minor bribery to whole.<br />

sale appropriation <strong>of</strong> state property. Grain trucks<br />

detoured through friendly farmers' yards arrive<br />

at the state granary less than full. Private houses<br />

sometimes are built, not only with state materlals,<br />

but using an entire crew who reported in sick<br />

on their regular job.<br />

One in four Hungarian families owns a car.<br />

There are a half-dozenmodels to choose from and<br />

most are made in the USSR. The prices range<br />

from $1500 to $2500 and it is necessary to deposit<br />

half the price when ordering. Delivery is slow, on<br />

average it takes six years.<br />

Hungary appears to be a strange blend <strong>of</strong> communism<br />

and capitalism and there are agreeable<br />

aspects to hath. Budapest, which was 70per cent<br />

destroyed in World War II, has been carefully<br />

reconstructed to much <strong>of</strong> its pre-war elegance including<br />

many <strong>of</strong> the older small houses on the<br />

Buda side. Probably only a communist economy<br />

with an excess <strong>of</strong> cheap labour could afford such<br />

indulgence. In a Western economy the area might<br />

now be littered with high-rise buildings. Admittedly<br />

the Hilton Hotel beside the Cathedral <strong>of</strong> 51.Matthias<br />

is an intruder, but it is built in the side <strong>of</strong> an<br />

old Jesuit College copying the facade <strong>of</strong> the original<br />

building.


letters<br />

3m enclosing a cheque to<br />

1renew our subscription to<br />

Deck s Awash.<br />

You have taken a step toward<br />

dispelling in the minds 01our pe0ple<br />

the idea that we have been living<br />

on the "forgotten coast ".<br />

."'.<br />

Energy, Mines and<br />

Resources Canada<br />

ConservatiOn and Bureau canadien des economi es<br />

Renewable Energy Office d'eoerg ie at des energies renouvelables<br />

ANNOUNCEMENT<br />

Upon the arrival <strong>of</strong> each issue <strong>of</strong><br />

Decks Awash, I <strong>of</strong>ten wondered<br />

myself when you would get<br />

around to doing our area. Well,<br />

yoo have done it and a very good<br />

job too.<br />

As you staled in your editorial,<br />

Energie, Mines et<br />

Aessou rces Canada<br />

The Government <strong>of</strong> Canada has announced the following<br />

changes to the Canadian Home Insulation<br />

Program (CHIP); and the Canada Oil Substitution<br />

Program (CaSP)<br />

CHIP CHIP will terminate on March 31, 1986. All Insulation<br />

or draftpro<strong>of</strong>ing work must be completed<br />

on or before that date.<br />

After December 31, 1984, CHIP's contribution<br />

to eligible costs will be reduced to one-third<br />

from 60% . The maximum grant is unchanged<br />

at $500.00.<br />

To be eligible for a contributio n <strong>of</strong> 60% the applicant<br />

must be registered with CHIP on or before<br />

December 31,1984, and the application<br />

form must be postmarked and work comp leted<br />

on or before March 31, 1985.<br />

cosp c asp will terminate on March 31,1985.<br />

casp applications will be forwarded to applicants<br />

until May 31, 1985. However, all work<br />

must have been completed previous to the termination<br />

<strong>of</strong> the program on March 31, 1985.<br />

Canada<br />

DECKS AWASH - 71<br />

it is probably unfortunate that<br />

you visited us at a time when so<br />

many people were away on vacation.<br />

Personally, I could have told<br />

you a lot about Ramea pertaining<br />

to its discovery bya captainHaI

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