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Border Print Fabrics - Jinny Beyer Studio

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<strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong><br />

<strong>Border</strong> <strong>Print</strong>s<br />

Creative Ideas &<br />

Tips for Quilters


<strong>Border</strong> <strong>Print</strong>s the <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> Way<br />

T<br />

M<br />

he use of Indian fabrics started me<br />

on my own creative quilting journey<br />

and eventually to designing my own<br />

fabric collections. These collections<br />

always include a border print –<br />

a fabric of repeated decorative stripes.<br />

W hile living in India<br />

in the early 1970s,<br />

I became fascinated with block-printed Indian cotton<br />

fabrics. These were sold by the piece (usually a bed cover<br />

or table cloth) rather than by the yard, and each piece had<br />

a decorative border around the edge. I cut up the fabric for<br />

garments and often used the borders for decoration. With<br />

lots of scraps left over, I decided to make a quilt and chose<br />

the Grandmother’s Flower Garden pattern.<br />

ore than 35 years later, I am still inspired by the wonderful effects that border prints<br />

can give our quilts and quilted projects. I hope that this booklet will show you how easy<br />

and exciting it is to use border prints when you know just a few of my secrets.<br />

©2010 <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> www.jinnybeyer.com<br />

Page 1


Designed for Quilters<br />

T he <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> border print fabrics created for RJR <strong>Fabrics</strong> are designed specifically for quilters. Every fabric<br />

design has several characteristics that ensure the fabric does triple duty:<br />

• Each border print fabric has a wide design stripe and a narrow design<br />

stripe so there are lots of design options. And the wide stripe is repeated<br />

at least four times across the width of the fabric so that calculating<br />

how much is needed to make borders for a quilt is easy: the<br />

length of the longest side of the quilt plus about 18" for mitering<br />

corners and matching design repeats.<br />

• The fabric design includes at least 1/2" between design stripes so<br />

when you cut down the center of this space, there is always at least<br />

1/4" seam allowance on both sides of the design stripes.<br />

You can use every bit of fabric!<br />

• As the examples that follow show, it’s important for the design<br />

motifs to have mirror-image repeats. This provides lots of<br />

options for creating dramatic effects – easily – with border prints.<br />

<strong>Border</strong> prints can add detail to patchwork blocks,<br />

frame a quilt, or add interest to quilted<br />

<strong>Border</strong> <strong>Print</strong> Place Mat<br />

or projects for the home.<br />

To spark your<br />

creativity,<br />

Made with just six pieces of<br />

border print fabric so it works up very fast.<br />

<strong>Border</strong> <strong>Print</strong> Tote<br />

A great tote is indispensable<br />

and this one certainly qualifies.<br />

It’s a generous size and one pattern<br />

gives you two great design options.<br />

©2010 <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong><br />

Page 2<br />

here are<br />

three projects<br />

that put<br />

border prints<br />

to work for<br />

you.<br />

Seam Allowance<br />

Space<br />

Braided Palette Table Runner<br />

Seam Allowance<br />

Space<br />

Features a border print medallion in the center,<br />

beautifully shaded fabric strips, and border print edging.<br />

The Place Mat and Table Runner patterns can be downloaded free at www.jinnybeyer.com/borderprojects.<br />

<strong>Border</strong> <strong>Print</strong> Tote kits and patterns are available at your local quilt shop and www.jinnybeyer.com.


<strong>Border</strong> <strong>Print</strong>s in Patchwork Blocks<br />

Q uilters have been fussy-cutting fabric since the very beginning, and border prints create unique effects when<br />

cut carefully to fit a specific patch. As in the examples below, it can be as simple as replacing a single patch in a block<br />

or subdividing a large shape and using an identical piece of border print in each of those new pieces. For more examples,<br />

see <strong>Jinny</strong>’s book, The Quilter’s Album of Patchwork Patterns.<br />

Stars and Cross<br />

The plain strips in this<br />

block have been replaced with<br />

a narrow border print stripe.<br />

Basket of Flowers<br />

Different portions of a single<br />

border print fabric are used<br />

to enhance the basket and<br />

the base of the flowers.<br />

Queen’s Crown<br />

Replacing the diamonds in the block<br />

with border print patches that mirror<br />

where they meet creates a “frame”<br />

around the block’s center.<br />

©2010 <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> www.jinnybeyer.com<br />

Page 3


Tips For Maximum Effect<br />

Keeping a few things in mind when<br />

cutting patches will make a big<br />

difference in how the finished<br />

block or quilt will look.<br />

Here are just three:<br />

1. Align the sewing line on the<br />

bottom of the template with<br />

a straight line printed on the<br />

fabric. This gives a nice, strong<br />

edge to the patch that helps define<br />

the shape, as in Basket of Flowers.<br />

2. When the same shape is repeated<br />

in a block, center the template<br />

on a mirror-image motif and<br />

cut identical pieces to give your<br />

block pleasing symmetry, as in<br />

Stars and Cross.<br />

3. Draw a portion of the design<br />

motif from the fabric onto your<br />

template. That will help you find<br />

the identical motif elsewhere on the<br />

fabric so you can cut identical<br />

patches.<br />

Rising Sun<br />

The octagon in the center of this<br />

block has been divided and replaced<br />

with eight identical border print triangles.<br />

White Nights<br />

Adding a small triangle of<br />

identical border print to the<br />

corner of four blocks that<br />

meet creates a lovely<br />

medallion effect.<br />

©2010 <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> Page 4<br />

www.jinnybeyer.com


Creating <strong>Border</strong> <strong>Print</strong> Shapes<br />

Squares<br />

S<br />

quares are the most common shape in patchwork blocks. If a block includes a large center square,<br />

consider replacing it with a border print square made from four identical triangles. Or, rather than<br />

alternating pieced blocks with plain ones, use border print squares for the alternate blocks for<br />

lots of impact with very little sewing!<br />

Step 1<br />

Determine the finished size of the square needed. Divide the square diagonally from<br />

corner to corner to create four triangles. Make a template from one of the triangles<br />

from see-through template material. Be sure to add a ¼-inch seam allowance<br />

around all sides of the piece. Draw a line down the middle of the template to use as<br />

a “mirror line”.<br />

Step 2<br />

Using the mirror line as a guide, center the template on one of the<br />

motifs in the border print fabric, making sure that a line from the<br />

border print falls just inside the sewing line on the long side of the<br />

triangle template. (This ensures that you will have a nice line or<br />

frame around the outside of the finished square.) Mark some<br />

portion of the design directly onto the template to use as a guide<br />

for cutting the remaining pieces. Carefully draw around the<br />

template and cut the piece out.<br />

Placing your triangle on different<br />

portions of the border print will<br />

produce different effects!<br />

If you want to see what the square will look like before actually<br />

cutting the pieces, position the template onto the fabric, then place<br />

two mirrors on the two short sides of the triangle so they meet at a<br />

right angle. Carefully remove the template to see what the finished<br />

square will look like.<br />

Step 3<br />

Cut three more triangles identical to<br />

the first, then sew them together to<br />

complete the square.<br />

©2010 <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> www.jinnybeyer.com<br />

Page 5


Other Shapes<br />

Other geometric shapes can be made with a border print in the same way as a square. The secret is to divide the shape<br />

into identical triangles. Create a template for that triangle (be sure to add the seam allowance), then cut as many<br />

triangles as you need from identical portions of the border print.<br />

Octagons<br />

Equilateral<br />

Triangles<br />

Hexagons<br />

©2010 <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> www.jinnybeyer.com<br />

Page 6


Mirror-Image <strong>Border</strong> <strong>Print</strong> Patches<br />

In the Queen’s Crown block, the illusion of a border print frame is<br />

achieved by putting one patch right beside another that is its exact<br />

mirror image. If two patches will meet, using one regular and one<br />

mirror-image patch will allow the design to seem to reflect naturally<br />

around the corner. Mark the design motif on your template and use it<br />

to cut the number of regular patches you need. Then, just flip the<br />

template over and use it to cut your mirror-image patches, lining up<br />

your design motif markings with the matching motifs on your fabric.<br />

Diamonds You can create spectacular effects using this technique in diamond-shaped patches.<br />

To create a border print diamond, you need four triangles: two are the same and two<br />

are exact mirror images.<br />

Step 1<br />

Divide the diamond in half lengthwise and crosswise. Make a<br />

template from one of the four resulting triangles. Add the seam<br />

allowance to the outside and an arrow to show the lengthwise<br />

grain of fabric.<br />

Step 2<br />

Position the template onto the fabric and draw a design motif<br />

from the fabric onto the template. Cut two identical triangles.<br />

Now, flip the template upside down and align the markings on<br />

the template with the fabric grain and the matching design motif<br />

on the fabric. Cut two of these triangles.<br />

Step 3<br />

You will have two sets of mirror-image triangles that form<br />

an intricate-looking diamond when sewn together.<br />

©2010 <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> www.jinnybeyer.com<br />

Page 7


Framing a Quilt with <strong>Border</strong> <strong>Print</strong>s<br />

J<br />

inny <strong>Beyer</strong>’s border prints are designed specifically with the quilter in mind. Each fabric has a wide and a narrow<br />

stripe which coordinate in both design and color. Both stripes have mirror-image motifs which are essential for perfectly<br />

mitered corners. In addition, the two different stripes in the border print are separated by at least a half-inch so that a<br />

1/4" seam allowance is provided for on both sides of the stripes. From selvage to selvage, there are always at least four<br />

repeats of each stripe across the fabric so calculating the yardage needed to border a quilt is easy: you need the length of<br />

the longest side of the quilt plus an additional half-yard to match design elements and allow for the miters at the corners.<br />

Framing a Square Quilt<br />

Step 1<br />

Place a strip of the border print across the middle of the quilt, centering a motif from the border at the exact center of<br />

the quilt. (Because of minor differences in seam allowances taken and stretching that can occur on bias edges, opposite<br />

edges of a quilt often measure slightly differently. Using a measurement taken from the middle of the quilt will help<br />

keep the quilt from “ruffling” at the edges.)<br />

Step 2<br />

To mark the first miter, position a right-angle triangle<br />

so that one of the sides of the right angle runs along<br />

the bottom edge of the border print. Then carefully<br />

move the triangle until the angled side touches the<br />

point where the top edge of the border print meets<br />

the edge of the quilt. (See arrow in Diagram 1.)<br />

Mark, then cut the miter line. (Because you have<br />

cut the miter right at the edge of the quilt<br />

the seam allowance is already included.)<br />

Step 3<br />

If you used the triangle to cut the miter on the second side,<br />

your design motifs might not be an exact match. So, carefully<br />

pick up the mitered side of the border strip and lay it –<br />

right side down – on top of the strip on the opposite side<br />

of the quilt, placing the top edge of the strip at the edge of<br />

the quilt. If necessary, adjust the top strip so that the top and<br />

bottom design motifs match exactly. (If you have centered<br />

a motif from the border print in the middle of the quilt, the<br />

designs should match at the edges.) Mark and cut the second miter.<br />

Step 4<br />

Using this first mitered strip as a guide, cut three<br />

more identical pieces, making sure that the design on<br />

the border print is exactly the same on all four pieces.<br />

Diagram 1<br />

Diagram 2<br />

©2010 <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> www.jinnybeyer.com<br />

Page 8


Step 5 Diagram 3<br />

Mark a seam allowance intersection dot<br />

on the short side of each of your borders as in<br />

Diagram 3. To find the spot, simply draw a short line<br />

1/4-inch inside the mitered edge and the short edge of<br />

the border. Draw the dot where the two lines intersect.<br />

Do the same for each corner of your quilt.<br />

Step 6<br />

To sew the borders to the quilt, pin the mid-point of one of the border<br />

pieces to the middle of one of the edges of the quilt. Next, match and<br />

pin the dots on each side of your border with the dots on the quilt<br />

corners. Continue pinning the border to the quilt, easing in any<br />

fullness. (The edge of the quilt is usually a little wider than the center<br />

because of bias edges or seams.) Sew the border to the quilt, starting<br />

and stopping at the dots. Sew the mitered seams last, starting from the<br />

inside dot. When pinning the edges together, be sure to match the<br />

design elements on both pieces.<br />

Framing a Rectangular Quilt<br />

With rectangles, you cannot always be assured that the fabric designs<br />

will automatically match at the corners. So, you must take an extra step.<br />

Step 1<br />

First, follow Steps 1-3 above and cut two identical strips for the short ends of the quilt. The pieces for the other<br />

two sides of the quilt must be cut differently: for the corners on all pieces to match, there must be a seam in these<br />

long borders at the exact center of the quilt.<br />

Step 2<br />

Place one of the cut strips on top of a length of the border print<br />

stripe, matching the fabric designs. Cut one miter to match the<br />

miter on the top strip. Set the top strip aside. Lay the newly cut<br />

strip on top of the quilt through the center, aligning one mitered<br />

edge with the edge of the quilt. Mark the center of the quilt on<br />

the strip. (See Diagram 5.) Move the strip from the quilt and<br />

cut it off ¼" beyond the center mark. Using this cut<br />

strip as a guide, cut one more piece identical to it.<br />

You also need two strips that are the exact mirror<br />

images of these pieces. Using one of the strips<br />

you just cut, flip it over and lay it on a strip<br />

of border print, matching the fabric design<br />

exactly. (The two strips will be right sides<br />

together.) Cut the miter and straight edges<br />

to match the top piece. Using the newly<br />

cut strip as a guide, cut one more piece.<br />

Center of quilt<br />

Diagram 5<br />

Diagram 4<br />

Cut on<br />

solid line<br />

Center of quilt<br />

Sew on<br />

dotted line<br />

©2010 <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> www.jinnybeyer.com<br />

Page 9


Diagram 6<br />

Applying Multiple <strong>Border</strong>s<br />

<strong>Jinny</strong> often designs quilts to make full use of the<br />

border prints. She will first frame the quilt with<br />

the narrow border stripe, then add a coordinating<br />

fabric as a second border. The quilt is finished off<br />

with the wide stripe from the border print.<br />

<strong>Jinny</strong> personally measures and adds each border<br />

separately. However, when the middle border<br />

is a fabric that doesn't have to be matched at<br />

the corners, she recommends the following<br />

method as being a little faster: Sew the second<br />

border to the first and then measure and cut them<br />

as a single border in the steps above. Measure, cut<br />

and sew the third border separately after the first<br />

two borders have been completed and sewn to<br />

the quilt.<br />

Step 3<br />

Sew the seams at the middle of two mirror-imaged strips and<br />

attach these borders to the quilt as in Steps 5 and 6 above. Sewing<br />

the borders to a rectangular quilt in this manner assures that the<br />

corners will match. There will be a seam at the center of the long<br />

strips (Diagram 7), but the design at that center will mirrorimage<br />

as well, allowing the design to flow around the quilt.<br />

Diagram 7<br />

The black line marks<br />

the center seam.<br />

Note how the design<br />

motif reflects the<br />

seam line.<br />

©2010 <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> www.jinnybeyer.com<br />

Page 10

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