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The peat-fire flame : folk-tales and traditions of the Highlands & Islands

The peat-fire flame : folk-tales and traditions of the Highlands & Islands

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GHOST TALES AND HAUNTED PLACES<br />

Inveravve House is situated on <strong>the</strong> grass-l<strong>and</strong>s that stretch<br />

between <strong>the</strong> base <strong>of</strong> Ben Cruachan, on <strong>the</strong> east, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

shores <strong>of</strong> Loch Etive, on <strong>the</strong> north, <strong>and</strong> away to <strong>the</strong> west<br />

beyond <strong>the</strong> Gaehc township <strong>of</strong> Taynuilt. Within earshot<br />

<strong>of</strong> it flows <strong>the</strong> River Awe, roughly a mile from <strong>the</strong> point<br />

at which it pours <strong>the</strong> overflow <strong>of</strong> Loch Awe into <strong>the</strong> tides<br />

<strong>of</strong> western Argyll. One afternoon in <strong>the</strong> mid-summer <strong>of</strong><br />

last year, when searching this romantic countryside with<br />

my camera, I arrived at Inverawe House when <strong>the</strong> bees<br />

were bumming noisily in <strong>the</strong> tall, flowering trees, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

sun-flecked lawn seemed to have taken on <strong>the</strong> hue <strong>of</strong> faerie.<br />

" Tell me something about Ticonderoga <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> ghost<br />

that haunts your home " ! I said to <strong>the</strong> late laird, during<br />

a light conversation that took place between us.<br />

"Tell you about Ticonderoga <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> ghost?" he<br />

responded. " You probably know more about <strong>the</strong>m than /<br />

do. But I can tell you this. <strong>The</strong> ghost was seen <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

night ; <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> maids now dread going near <strong>the</strong> haunted bit<br />

"<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> house where he was seen !<br />

Where Vegetation will not Grow.<br />

Both in <strong>the</strong> Highl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> Isl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>the</strong>re are innumerable<br />

places, said to be haunted, where vegetation will not grow<br />

at all, or where only certain weedy vegetation flourishes.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> Isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> Pabbay, in <strong>the</strong> Sound <strong>of</strong> Harris, is <strong>the</strong><br />

ruinous remnant <strong>of</strong> a stronghold that in ancient times went<br />

by a Gaelic name signifying <strong>the</strong> Old Castle. <strong>The</strong> large<br />

stones lying in <strong>the</strong> s<strong>and</strong>y hollow below <strong>the</strong> ruins are said to<br />

be associated with a conflict fought many centuries ago<br />

between <strong>the</strong> MacDonalds <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> MacLeods; <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Isl<strong>and</strong>ers dwelling in <strong>the</strong> Sound <strong>of</strong> Harris aver that grass<br />

will never take root just at this spot. Of <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Castle, little is known, except that in 1559 <strong>the</strong> notorious<br />

usurper, Iain Dubh, came thi<strong>the</strong>r after he had been dislodged<br />

from Dunvegan Castle by Tormod MacLeod <strong>and</strong> his<br />

followers, who had succeeded in persuading <strong>the</strong> warder to<br />

surrender <strong>the</strong> keep to its lawful owner. Iain Dubh managed<br />

to escape to his galley, moored in readiness by Dunvegan's<br />

walls. He sailed for Pabbay, but on arrival was refused<br />

u 305

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