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Levi Strauss & Co.: They Go On campaign Encyclopedia of Major ...

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Unfortunately for <strong>Levi</strong>'s, its market share with the consumer group <strong>of</strong> 15- to 19-year-olds dropped from 33 percent in 1993 to 26 percent in<br />

1997. <strong>Levi</strong>'s learned that this statistic was not a fluke when a yearlong research project indicated that the "echo boomers," children <strong>of</strong> baby<br />

boomers, considered <strong>Levi</strong>'s passé. Steve <strong>Go</strong>ldstein, vice president <strong>of</strong> marketing and research for <strong>Levi</strong>'s USA, told BusinessWeek, "Kids say<br />

they love the <strong>Levi</strong>'s brand. But if you ask them whether it's 'with it,' they'll say no." Sixteen-year-old Irma Cruz stated in the <strong>Co</strong>lumbian,<br />

"<strong>Levi</strong>'s are too straight, too plain … None <strong>of</strong> my friends wear them." <strong>Levi</strong>'s needed to present a fashionable and modern <strong>campaign</strong> that<br />

would win over these consumers.<br />

COMPETITION<br />

As more players entered the lucrative denim market in the 1990s, <strong>Levi</strong>'s faced growing competition. According to the 1998 Market Share<br />

Reporter, VF <strong>Co</strong>rporation, the maker <strong>of</strong> Lee and Wrangler jeans, held 30.1 percent <strong>of</strong> the U.S. market, compared to <strong>Levi</strong>'s at 16 percent.<br />

Designer labels also infiltrated the market, with Guess, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein's CK, Nautica, Diesel, and Ralph Lauren's Polo among<br />

the high-end labels fighting for market share. Gap, along with its Old Navy clothing line, also posed a threat. Private-label jeans, such as<br />

J.C. Penney's Arizona line and Sears, Roebuck's Canyon River Blues series, also entered the market and gobbled up valuable jeans<br />

dollars. According to the Tactical Retail Monitor, as reported in the Los Angeles Times, private-label jeans experienced a rise in market<br />

share from 3.2 percent in 1990 to 19.1 percent in 1997.<br />

Alan Millstein, a New York retail consultant and editor <strong>of</strong> Fashion Network Report, told Advertising Age, "<strong>Levi</strong>'s is in a pincers from the<br />

private-label and specialty brands in department stores and the designer brands." According to the Los Angeles Times, Tony Cherbak, a<br />

Deloitte & Touche retail-industry analyst, agreed with Millstein and stated, "For a long time, they were the only game in town … <strong>They</strong> were<br />

able to demand prices and dictate display. But as other brands ate into their market, retailers could turn elsewhere or make their own<br />

private label brands."<br />

MARKETING STRATEGY<br />

To boost its popularity with the younger market and to lure customers, <strong>Levi</strong>'s chose to launch the $90 million image-building <strong>campaign</strong><br />

based on the strength <strong>of</strong> its brand. <strong>Levi</strong>'s Fanoe was quoted in the San Francisco Chronicle as saying, "The ads will be built around what the<br />

<strong>Levi</strong>'s brand stands for: originality, independence and <strong>Levi</strong>'s as an American icon." The biggest and most expensive <strong>campaign</strong> instigated by<br />

<strong>Levi</strong>'s, "<strong>They</strong> <strong>Go</strong> <strong>On</strong>" included six television spots, five <strong>of</strong> which lasted 60 seconds and one 90 seconds. It debuted in August 1997 on<br />

prime-time network television and during telecasts <strong>of</strong> National Football League games on Fox as well as on MTV. The spots were also shown<br />

in movie theaters across the nation. The print and outdoor portions <strong>of</strong> the <strong>campaign</strong> began in October with print ads in magazines such as<br />

Rolling Stone and Sports Illustrated. <strong>Levi</strong>'s home page on the World Wide Web provided additional ad information, and the <strong>campaign</strong><br />

included bilingual spots in Spanish and English for viewers in the Los Angeles and Houston areas. <strong>Levi</strong>'s expected 94 percent <strong>of</strong> its target<br />

consumers to see the <strong>campaign</strong> an average <strong>of</strong> 15 times each.<br />

CELEBRITY CAMEOS<br />

Several <strong>of</strong> the spots in the <strong>Levi</strong>'s "<strong>They</strong> <strong>Go</strong> <strong>On</strong>" <strong>campaign</strong> featured appearances by celebrities. Author Quentin Crisp<br />

appeared as a patron in a nightclub, and musician Lenny Kravitz was the rock star stuck at a gas station's pay phone. The<br />

bag boy in "Bag Boy Fantasy" was played by Brian Vaughan, the actor who had portrayed the young Brad Pitt character in<br />

the film Seven Years in Tibet, and the riled agent <strong>of</strong> the rock star was played by Bodhi Elfman, son <strong>of</strong> Danny Elfman,<br />

musician and member <strong>of</strong> the rock band Oingo Boingo.<br />

The six television spots shared a loosely interwoven narrative. <strong>Co</strong>mmon elements linked the spots, but the elements were <strong>of</strong>ten random,<br />

and viewers had to pay close attention to notice the connections. As Amy Rosenthal, the senior marketing specialist at <strong>Levi</strong>'s USA,<br />

explained to the Dallas Morning News, "We call it dream logic … There's no beginning, middle or end, just a series <strong>of</strong> little vignettes. Nothing<br />

much happens, but they are connected in interesting ways by interesting things." The strategy was similar to those adopted by competitors<br />

Lee and Guess, both <strong>of</strong> which produced television spots that were like minifilms that told stories, albeit nebulous ones, designed to push an<br />

image rather than a product. It was believed that this s<strong>of</strong>t-sell approach would appeal to teenagers who had become jaded about pushy<br />

advertising. In the Dallas Morning News James Twitchell, author <strong>of</strong> Adcult USA, commented on the <strong>Levi</strong>'s <strong>campaign</strong> by remarking, "It's the<br />

ultimate super-s<strong>of</strong>t sell, so s<strong>of</strong>t there's no sell at all … Advertising has become so omnipresent, the only way to cut through it is with<br />

something that doesn't look like an advertisement."<br />

<strong>Levi</strong>'s hoped that the target consumer would be engaged by the spots and encouraged to view all <strong>of</strong> them. Unlike other episodic <strong>campaign</strong>s<br />

that televised one spot at a time, <strong>Levi</strong>'s chose to show the commercials in groups <strong>of</strong> two or three in an attempt to draw in the viewer and to<br />

signify that the spots were indeed related. Andy Berkenfield, Foote <strong>Co</strong>ne & Belding account manager and vice president, told the Dallas<br />

Morning News, "You do worry with this sort <strong>of</strong> episodic storytelling that it will be confusing, so you try to make it pretty obvious, especially<br />

early on."<br />

The first spot, the 90-second "Impala Man," featured a man wearing a cowboy hat who drove a Chevrolet Impala filled with stuffed animals<br />

to a diner. In the diner he talked to D.J. Marcus, a New York-bound disc jockey, and gave away a stuffed dinosaur. The following spot, "Car<br />

Chase," starred a Kojak-obsessed cab driver employed by a plainclothes policeman to chase a thief making a getaway on a moped. The<br />

cab driver engaged in a high-speed chase, with the nervous <strong>of</strong>ficer in the backseat. In the third spot, "Ice Cream Man," the disc jockey<br />

from the first spot returned as a disc jockey in a trendy nightclub, an ice cream man would not hand over ice cream to young children<br />

unless they correctly answered difficult trivia questions, and a rock musician spoke on a pay phone at a gas station. "Bag Boy Fantasy"<br />

showed the agent <strong>of</strong> the rock star on a cellular phone in a grocery store while the bag boy daydreamed <strong>of</strong> being a rock star. "Test Drive,"<br />

the fifth installment, included a girl who took a car on a test drive, with the dealer in the backseat making sales claims. She stopped to pick<br />

up her boyfriend and then drove to a c<strong>of</strong>fee shop. The final spot, "Car Wash," featured a goggles-clad man who drove an AMC Gremlin<br />

through a car wash with the windows rolled down, thus washing the inside and outside <strong>of</strong> the car. As he exited the car wash, the Impala

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