Split - In Your Pocket

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SPLIT
20
Europe’s best city
guides for more than
20 years
Ivan Meštrović
Marking 50 years since the
passing of one of the world’s
greatest sculptors
Makarska riviera
Discover its gorgeous
beaches and the unspoilt
backdrop of the Biokovo
Mountain
Wet n wild
Scuba dive deep and the
rewards will reap
Summer 2012

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Contents
Arriving in Split 6
Land ahoy!
The Basics 7
Whither toilets?
Magnificent Meštrović 8
One of the worlds greatest sculptors
Culture & Events 10
Festival fun and music mania
Where to stay 15
Your home away from home
Restaurants 21
Feast your senses
The photo presents the Split Tribal Fest, a fusion of various
belly dance forms including contemporary, Latin, ballet and
theatrical dance. Want more! Go to page 13
Contents
This symmetric underwater Asteroidean is just one of the
attractions that can be seen beneath the Adriatic Sea.
For more information on scuba diving, read our section on
page 46
Cafés 29
Get into full chill mode
Nightlife 30
Step out in Split style
Sightseeing 32
Galleries, churches, Roman remains...
Mail & Phones 39
Go on… open your heart
Getting around 40
Scoot around the city in style
Diving in the Adriatic 46
This issues special feature
Shopping 48
Perfect gifts and souvenirs
Business Directory 51
Grown up important stuff
Makarska Riviera 52
Day trips galore
Split Dalmatia County 65
This issue’s special feature
Maps & Index
Index 74
Street index 75
City centre map 77
City map 78
Country map 80
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
3

4 Foreword
For decades Split was an odd paradox, a city steeped in
history and culture that didn’t seem to care whether it got a
slice of the tourism pie or not. It was traditionally a transit
point through which tourists passed on their way to resorts
on the islands of Brač and Hvar. Even Split’s own citizens
would drift off to nearby beaches in the summer season,
leaving the city in a state of semi-deserted balmy stupour.
And although day-trippers were frequently bussed into town
to drool over the city’s architectural riches, few locals ever
considered that Split really qualified as a destination in itself.
The last few years have seen a huge change in Split’s
fortunes. Modern travellers have been turned on by the sheer
urban energy of one of the Mediterranean’s great port cities,
and have opted to stick around for a few days rather than
hurrying to catch the first boat out. And the locals – who
have always considered their town to be one of the most
inexplicably unique places on earth, but habitually assume
that outsiders are too stupid to realize it – have awoken to
the realization that the new breed of foreigner actually thinks
Split is just as cool as they do.
And to be honest, Split doesn’t have to try too hard to
impress. For dedicated urban nomads it’s a dream city of
shore-side cafes, back-alley bars, and a vivacious, dressedto-thrill
cast of locals for whom the art of having a good night
out is a lifelong calling.
Our IYP summer bonanza brings you the latest in a
resurgence of newly opened groovy restaurants, wine bars,
cafes and clubs to chill and thrill if you have the will. We feature
the Makarska Riviera in all its glory with some of the best
smooth white pebbled and sandy beaches backed by pine
and olive woods. For those seeking adventure do not miss our
exclusive on diving with a list of unsurpassed sites and types
of dives beneath the sea. If you prefer the safety of land, take
a peek at our culture section as this year is a dedication to
one of the world’s greatest ever sculptors, local born genius
Ivan Meštrović. With a jam packed summer calendar on hand,
we wish you the merriest of travels!
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6 arriving in split
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre J-2, Peristil
bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, www.
visitsplit.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sun
08:00 - 13:00.
Split Tourist Board I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog
preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 86 00, touristinfo@
visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com. QOpen 07:30 -
15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board D-3,
Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, tel. (+385-21) 49 00
32/(+385-21) 49 00 33, info@dalmatia.hr, www.
dalmatia.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
By boat
Split‘s ferry port isn‘t a bad place to make the transition
from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation
and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see
policemen strolling around, don‘t be disturbed: those are just
the customs officers that work at the office located in the
port. The toilet near the back of the port operates around
the clock. There‘s a supermarket that‘s open from 06:30 -
20:30 daily and a few cafés and bars that are open according
to season and demand. Changing currency: There are at
least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the
building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their
working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones
inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the
kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting
to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus
stop, with service to several points around town. Check the
schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you
need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the
street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you‘ll
reach the old town in about five minutes.
By bus
Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3,
Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/
(+385-21) 32 91 80, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr.
Split‘s bus station is fairly small but has everything you
need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open
00:00 - 24:00) 3kn can be found inside the station, along
with the domestic and international ticket windows and an
information desk. The domestic ticket window offers a
twenty-four hour service and the information desk operates
from 06:00 - 22:00.The international ticket office operates
06:00 - 21:30. The red and blue posters on the window of
the international ticket office list the international arrivals and
departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00 -
22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station
and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 6,50kn per hour, per
piece of luggage. Getting to town: As it‘s on the same side
of the street, the directions for getting around are the same
as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to
the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the
old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and
call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away
directly in front of the bus station.
By car
From Zagreb
So you have your own wheels and you‘d like to know the
easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The
fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to
use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on
international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route
on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long
and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of
157 kunas for toll fees (Prices are expected to rise by 15% as
of 1 June). When the signs let you know you‘re getting close
to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and that‘s that!
From Slovenia
Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do
is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and keep
an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split.
From Italy
Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions,
nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway to
Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route
number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and
enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which will take
you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 (local route
6) to Bosiljevo, where you‘ll see signs for the A-1, which you
follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje.
By plane
Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)
Cesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-
21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, uprava@splitairport.hr,
www.split-airport.hr. Split‘s airport is 30km
out of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated
as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving
can be directed to the nice people at the information desk,
which is open from 05:15 - 23:00. Follow the steps leading
down from the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing
station. Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from
the main hall. If you feel like a drink or a bite before your flight,
Restaurant and Café Ikar operates from 05:00 - 23:00 and
has an excellent view of the sea and palm trees swaying in
the breeze. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30
- 19:30) has an exchange office and it can be found at the far
end of the main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall.
Calling home: You can purchase a phone card at the
Slobodna dalmacija kiosk (open according to flight times).
There are public phones in two locations: first, in the main
hall next to the Internet point (which offers free Internet,
incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two doors
leading to the men‘s and women‘s toilets.
Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number
of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. Otherwise,
your choices are taxi, public bus or Croatia Airlines airport
bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and
shouldn‘t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No
37 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals
on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with
tickets costing 16kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the
stop there. Croatia Airlines buses run according to the arrival
times of flights and drop you just next to the old town for 30kn.
By train
Main train station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel.
(+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.hznet.
hr. The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated
storage lockers that can be accessed during the
station‘s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The lockers
have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it‘s on the
same side of the street, the directions for getting around are
the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead
you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to
the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet
and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you
away directly in front of the train station.
www.inyourpocket.com
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

Customs
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats,
sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will
be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts
in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs
offices for items over 500kn. Any Croatian art or cultural
works must receive export approval before purchase. Call
the Ministry of Finance for further details tel. (+385-1)
459 13 33, www.mfin.hr.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
appliances.
Health & Safety
The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye
should be kept on one‘s belongings at all times, nevertheless.
Policija (The Police tel.
no.192) are generally helpful in times of crisis; keep in
mind that they also perform occasional checks of identity
documents, so keep some identification on you at all times.
Money
There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well
as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a
day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards,
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash
on you. If you‘re planning a trip to one of the islands in the
area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount
of cash you think you‘ll need for the trip, as finding places
that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.
Public Toilets
There are several spots that are labeled as having a public
toilet around the city, but not all of them are open. The safest
option is to use the facilities of a bar or café while having
a drink on the premises. The best public one, complete
with staff on hand to keep it clean and tidy is on Kralja
Tomislava (I-2). It should be said that some of our female
staff members felt a slight hint of sexual discrimination, as
a cabin in the public WC runs 4kn, while those of us able to
stand and do their business will only have to pay 2kn. So
much for gender equality.
Basic data
Population:
Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612
Split County (April 2011): 455,242
Split (April 2011): 178,192
Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km 2 . It
shares borders with Hun gary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro,
Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest
peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a
natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.
Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for
good reason - the crystal clear wa ters are some of the most
beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!
Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Croatian coast,
47 of them inhabited.
Climate: Mediterranean
Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European
Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Split it is 12:00
in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.
split.inyourpocket.com
Climate
Temperature, °C
30
20
10
0
-10
National holidays
BasiCs
Rainfall, mm
100
-20 J F M A M J J A S O N D
Roads
Croatian lawmakers can‘t seem to make up their minds about
the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed
law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%.
But recent developments have seen this law changed yet
again. The changes mean that if you‘re under 24 years of
age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however,
over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective
June 1, 2008. Once again, we‘ll leave it to others to debate
the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous
terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And
the police are enforcing it.
Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol
does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway
and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the
motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless
otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph
on highways.
On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped
for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving
licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate,
so make sure to always keep them with you.
Tipping
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about
tipping, but seeing how you‘re a visitor to the country and
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to
tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff‘s efforts seems like a
classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn‘t it?
Water
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
January 1 New Year’s Day
January 6 Epiphany
April 8 Easter
April 9 Easter Monday
May 1 International Workers' Day
June 7 Corpus Christi
June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day
June 25 Statehood Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland
Thanksgiving Day
August 15 Feast of the Assumption
October 8 Independence Day
November 1 All Saints’ Day
December 25 Christmas
December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day
75
50
25
0
Summer 2012
7

8 magnificent meštrović
Woman by the Sea, marble, 1926
Every country has its national treasures: people or institutions
that define that nation; that make it proud or simply make its
people a little gladder to be alive than they would have been
otherwise. One of Croatia’s national treasures is undoubtedly
the sculptor Ivan Meštrović. In his work you can clearly see
the conflicts and passions that made him, like his statues,
very much larger than life.
Many of Croatia’s major cities, as well as its small towns
and hamlets, boast works that are profound expressions of
Meštrović’s powerful and sometimes turbulent character.
Stand at the foot of the mighty statue of Bishop Gregory
of Nin in Split and the most committed atheist can’t help
being instilled with a sense of awe. Gaze at Meštrović’s
studies of peasant women, and you can feel the essence of
their culture, the artist’s reverence for his roots in the rocky
Dalmatian hinterland.
“Job”, bronze, 1946
Meštrović was not born in Dalmatia. Around the time of his
birth in 1883, his parents moved to the village of Vrpolje in
Slavonia, eastern Croatia, in search of work. There, his father
Mate, a literate man and a skilled mason, found work as a
labourer on the new railway. The family moved back to their
home village of Otavice, just inland from Šibenik, when the
young Ivan was tiny.
Meštrović was very much influenced by his childhood in the
place where the Dinaric Alps plunge into the Adriatic Sea.
The terrain is harsh and rocky: there, working with stone
is a natural reflection of people’s connection with their
environment. The tough conditions contrast with an austere
but starkly beautiful culture. The rhythms of life are expressed
in song, dance and crafts and are framed by the forbidding
backdrop of pale rock against the dazzling blue sea.
The young Meštrović tended sheep; he drank in the ballads
of the villagers and the Bible stories his mother recited by
heart. He taught himself to read and write by comparing those
recited stories with the pages of his father’s Bible. He tried
to carve the characters from these tales in wood and stone.
Meštrović Atelier, D.Fabijanić
At the age of 17, Meštrović’s talent for carving was noticed by
a number of people who raised the money necessary to send
him to work as an apprentice under a stonemason named
Pavle Bilinić in Split. Split still today is a living museum with
the large and well-preserved palace of the Roman Emperor
Diocletian forming its core, and a magical mixture of gothic,
renaissance, baroque and later architectures. It’s easy to
imagine the young Meštrović walking the polished stone
flags of the street and gazing up in wonder: he would go on
to design some equally splendid buildings himself.
Bilinić and his wife Gina felt their charge showed exceptional
promise and succeeded in bringing his talent to the attention
of an Austrian mine-owner in Drniš who, among others,
undertook to financially support Meštrović while he studied
at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna.
The central hall at the Meštrović Gallery
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

Before that could begin, however, a new challenge awaited the
young sculptor: learning the German language. It’s important
to remember at this point that Meštrović had never had any
formal schooling.
His first years in Vienna were hard since his benefactors
reneged on their promises. Meštrović rebelled against
some aspects of Academy life, but his years in Vienna were
formative, opening his eyes to the intellectual and artistic
currents of the time. It was here that he met his first wife Ruža.
Heeding the advice of Auguste Rodin (who had an enduring
respect for the young sculptor), the couple embarked on a life
of travel. A number of commissions, including the powerful
fountain “The Source of Life” which today stands in front of
the National Theatre in Zagreb, enabled the couple to spend
time in Austria, France, Italy, Serbia, Switzerland, the United
Kingdom and the United States.
Meštrović worked and exhibited profusely. In 1903 came
the first of many exhibitions with the world-famous Vienna
Secession group. In 1911 he won the grand prize for sculpture
at the international exhibition in Rome, where Gustav Klimt
won the first prize for painting. His circle of friends comprised
the most renowned artists of the day. He created works which
still stand today in countries throughout Europe and beyond.
Perhaps his most famous works outside Croatia are the
Spearman and the Bowman (or the “Indians”) in Grant Park
split.inyourpocket.com
magnificent meštrović
The Church of the Holy Redeemer, Z. Alajbeg
The Meštrović Gallery, view from the terrace
(Michigan Ave), Chicago.
He was the first living artist to have a solo exhibition in the
Victoria and Albert Museum in London (1915) and in the
Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York (1947).
Meštrović left Croatia during the Second World War after
his imprisonment by the pro-Nazi wartime regime. After
the Second World War he refused to live under Yugoslav
communist regime so in 1947 he accepted a post at Syracuse
University, New York State, and in 1955 moved to Notre Dame
University, South Bend, Indiana, where he died in 1962. He
was buried in his parents’ village of Otavice, Croatia.
The Source of Life, 1905, fountain in front of Croatian
National Theatre in Zagreb
During his lifetime, Meštrović became a member of the
Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, the American
Academy of Arts and Letters and the American Institute of
Architects, and an honorary member of The Academy of Fine
Arts in Vienna. He became an American citizen in 1954. His
legacy includes hundreds of sculptures, medals, monuments
and public buildings all over the world.
Ten years before he died, he made a gift of the bulk of his
life’s work to the nation, including his family homes in Split
and Zagreb and chapels in Split and Otavice. These are now
Ivan Meštrović Museums and are open to the public. The
year 2012 marks the 50th anniversary of the death of this
remarkable man. So make a date to see some of his works.
Summer 2012
9

10 Culture & events
Rock & Pop Concerts
15.06 Friday
Dječaci
D-3, Bačvice Summer Cinema, Put firula 2. Three act
sensation that test the waters of hip hop, rap and spruces
of other musical styles in short snippets. Their road to fame
started in 2003 with the underground classic Još trčimo
ulice to the recent Dalmacijo and Lovrinac. Expect a jovial,
electric and funky night! Q Concert starts at 20:00.
03.07 Tuesday
The Cult feat. Gun
C-2, Spaladium Arena, Zrinsko-frankopanska 211.
British rock icons ‘The Cult‘ will release their new album,
‘Choice of Weapon‘ in May and follow it up with a tour. Since
the 80s the band has continued to produce their hard rock
quintessential sound whilst dipping into some punk/mystic/
melodic elements. Hear Fire Woman, Sun King, Lil Devil, She
Sells Sanctuary and other classic hits. Q Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 190 - 240kn available at the www.eventim.hr.
Massimo Savić
Ethno Ambient Salona, Lo cor de la plana Marseille
12.07 Thursday
Massimo Savić
C-3, Sustipan, www.ritamprodukcija.com. One of
Croatia‘s highly regarded pop-rock singers who has produced
chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good wine,
Massimo seems to get better with time as he recently
received 4 awards at Porin. Many declare him to be Croatia‘s
David Bowie with startling resemblances in voice.
13.07 Friday
Josipa Lisac
C-3, Sustipan, www.ritamprodukcija.com. Emotive,
charismatic, eccentric and yet somewhat intrinsic best
describe Lisac‘s stage persona and songs. We are talking
about an artist who has been on the scene for four decades
and is highly respected for her work with mixes of pop, rock,
and jazz to Bosnian Sevdah.
17.07 Tuesday
Guns N‘ Roses
C-2, Spaladium Arena, Zrinsko-frankopanska 211.
The Gods of glam/heavy rock still have their ‘Appetite for
Destruction‘ with a tour that is sending rock waves throughout
the old continent. Front man Axl Rose still leads the band and
legions of fans get their chance to hear hits like Paradise City,
Sweet Child O Mine, Welcome to the Jungle and others. The
Gunners are back - limited entry for 10,000 fans. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 290 - 500kn.
Club Nights
21.06 Thursday
Freemasons
D-3, Imperium, Gat svetog Duje. British house
attraction the Freemasons are a dynamic duo that
have become accustomed to bringing the house down
with their hit singles Love on my Mind, Watchin and D
éjà vu. Remixes with Beyonce, Jamiroquai, Fatboy Slim
and others prove that there finger tapping and turntable
skills sizzle.
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

Music to move your soul
21.06 Tuesday
www.splitbluesfestival.com. Split becomes a hit!
Indeed the first day of summer sees the city send musical
waves across the Adriatic with a 24 hour chock a block
programme. Ten stages, ten genres of music and over
500 participants. Locations throughout the city will be set
up so choose from ethno, jazz, rock, urban, and others.
The Split Blues Festival at the Prokurative features six
groups both local and abroad.
Split Film Festival
Exhibitions
03.05 Thursday - 05.07 Thursday
Iški lopižar - Predrag Petrović
J-3, Ethnographic Museum, Severova 1, etnografskimuzej-st@st.t-com.hr,
www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr.
Meet a man who has been working as a potter for 23 years
and presents the making of traditional ceramics with glass.
Petrović mastered his craft from his fellow islanders and is
now the island’s last remaining potter, a tradition that has
been upheld since 1530. The most characteristic feature of Iž
pottery is the mixing of clay and calcium with feet on leather
and baking it on an open fire. Its preparations last for days.
And who could ever forget the old pottery wheel which has
been long abandoned in other places?
14.07 Saturday - 15.08 Wednesday
Sense and sensibility - Design business forum
Loggia Gallery, Hvar. Interested in design? Product design
that is, then look at some of the best developed designs
from Croatia. About 40 chosen items by 14 Croatian
designer brands are on display. Whilst there, why not meet
and mingle with some of the leaders of the industry from
this side of Europe.
09.08 Thursday - 30.08 Thursday
Franke James - An exhibition
D/E-2, MKC Gallery, Savska bb, www.mkcsplit.hr. A
collision of art and environment drenched with apolitical
issues that have inspired Franke James to act or better
say, react. This Canadian artist combines science, art,
film, photography and storytelling to raise environmental
awareness through visual essays. See how James brings the
word ‘global‘ to our ‘local‘ art scene, in her own original way.
August - September
The tradition of giving ship models as vow gifts
K-2, Croatian Maritime Museum, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe
Fortress), www.hpms.hr. Did you know that from the 19th
century Croatian seamen used ship models as vow gifts and
would place them in churches hoping for safety and health
on their journeys? Recent research will give us an insight
into the who, how, where and why of this phenomenon with
preserved models on show.
split.inyourpocket.com
Culture & events
Tribal Fest, Anasma
Special events
02.06 Saturday - 09.06 Saturday
Split Mediterranean Film Festival
Bačvice Summer Cinema; Zlatna vrata Kinoteka; Villa
Rosina, www.fmfs.hr. Eight days, hundreds of films,
thousands of visitors! See films from the Mediterranean
region come alive with a matinee and beach evening
programme that has people sitting on beach towels as tickets
are snapped up quick smart. Exhibitions and parties under
the night sky are this year‘s added surprise.
15.06 Friday - 24.08 Fiday
Split Rock Fest 2012
E-3 Legends Bar, Uvala Bačvice. It’s all ‘hard n heavy’ with
over 20 rock, alternative rock, punk, garage, jazz and blues
bands from this side of Europe. Spread over three months this
is a treat for all fans of such genres with hot prizes to be won.
Ethno Ambient Salona
Summer 2012
11

12 Culture & events
22.06 Friday - 24.06 Sunday
Echo Festival 2012
Buba Beach Bar, Makarska, www.echofestival.com.
Live it up at this underground music festival over three days
with the likes of Inxec, Droog, Cozzy D, Pariah, Koreless and
many more DJs that will grace the two stages. If house and
techno music gets your heart rate jumping, then why not let
it pulsate amidst this beautiful beach location as the crystal
waters might help you cool off!
24.06 Sunday
Raymonda
G-2, Cineplexx, City Centre One, Vukovarska 207, www.
cineplexx.hr. Aficionados of ballet can revel in this classic by
Marius Petipa as it brings to life some majestic choreography
and within its three acts. Set in the time of the Crusades the
plot is based on two lovers distanced by duty yet they find
rejoice in their honesty and love. Cinestar streams it from the
Bolshoie Theatre, Moscow.
26.06 Tuesday
The Fallen Woman (La Traviata)
Cinestar Split, Put brodarice 6, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. A
three act opera by Giuseppe Verdi where the love between the
courtesan Violetta Valery and Alfredo Germont is tampered
with by outside forces. Do their hearts remain true? Hear
“Sempre Libera” (Always free) and other Verdi classics live
from Milan at CineStar. Q Starts at 20:00.
www.inyourpocket.com
More fun...
05.05 Saturday - 20.06 Wednesday
Mario Javorčić, J-2 Emanuel Vidović Gallery, Poljana
kraljice Jelene b.b. 29 paintings.
01.06 Friday - 02.07 Monday
Monday Daslav Petrović, A Story in the Stone, I-2
Alliance Francaise de Split, Marmontova 3, www.
alliance-francaise-split.com. Exhibition of sculptures
made of stone.
02.06 Saturday - 01.07 Sunday
Bojan Šumonja, J-2 Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb.
An exhibition.
13.06 Wednesday - 23.06 Saturday
Emanuel Vidović Art Association, J-2 Split City
Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.mgst.net. Exhibition
21.06 Thursday - 10.07 Tuesday
Anton Cetin
J-2 Emanuel Vidović Gallery, Poljana kraljice Jelene
b.b, www.mgst.net.
27.06 Wednesday - 09.07 Monday
Ana Marija Botteri Peruzović, I-2 Galić Art Salon,
Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm.
Exhibition of paintings.
03.07 Tuesday - 23.07 Monday
Dubravka Vojnović, The Sea is the Sky‘s Other Shore ,
I-2 Alliance Francaise de Split, Marmontova 3, www.
alliance-francaise-split.com. Exhibition of oil canvases.
12.07 Thursday - 15.09 Saturday
Traditional clothing of Croats in Vojvodina - author
Josip Forjan, Rental and workshops on national folk
costumes, Zagreb
J-3 Ethnographic Museum, Severova 1, etnografskimuzej-st@st.t-com.hr,
www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr.
14.07 Saturday- 14.08 Tuesday
As part of the Split Summer Festival - works between
1990 and 2012 by the academic painter Velimir
Find out the who, when and where of the World Music Day
Festival which covers enough genres that will have you
clapping, tapping, hopping and bopping. Full details on
page 11
Veličković (Paris)
Kula Gallery & Milesi Palace, Kralja Tomislava bb,Trg
braće Radića 7.
24.07 Tuesday - 20.08 Monday
Damir Mandeta Vrdoljak, Perfect Dreams, I-2 Alliance
Francaise de Split, Marmontova 3, www.alliancefrancaise-split.com.
Exhibition of small travelling boats.
08.08 Wednesday - 20.08 Monday
Marche Region, Italy, I-2 Galić Art Salon, Marmontova
3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm. Group exhibition.
21.08 Tuesday - 16.09 Sunday
Frano Missia, With Love, I-2 Alliance Francaise de
Split, Marmontova 3, www.alliance-francaise-split.
com. Exhibition of acrylic paintings
03.09 Monday - 23.09 Sunday
A retrospective by the academic painter Bogdan
Borčić (Slovenia)
Kula Gallery & Milesi Palace, Kralja Tomislava bb,Trg
braće Radića 7.
05.09 Wednesday - 17.09 Monday
Kaća Svedružić, I-2 Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3,
www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm. Exhibition of paintings
07.09 Friday - 30.9 Sunday
Students of the Split Art School (Mentor Marko Amižić)
Classic masterpiece replicas, I-2 Alliance Francaise de
Split, Marmontova 3, www.alliance-francaise-split.
com. Exhibition of tempera works on wood.
03.10 Wednesday - 16.10 Tuesday
Jasna Bogdanović, I-2 Galić Art Salon, Marmontova
3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm. Exhibition of
sculptures.
08.10 Monday - 25.10 Thursday
Academic painter Antun Boris Švaljek, Kula Gallery &
Milesi Palace, Kralja Tomislava bb,Trg braće Radića 7.
An exhibition.
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

29.06 Friday - 01.07 Sunday
The Split festival
I-2, Prokurative (Trg Republike), www.splitskifestival.hr.
Many say that this is the San Remo Music Festival of Croatia
as it always attracts the biggest names on the Croatian music
scene. Despite the glory days of the 70‘s and 80‘s long gone,
the event has had some changes over the years but things
are on the improve. For the very best in Croatian music, then
this is a highlight as it continues to attract the biggest names
and draws the most attention.
19.07 Thursday - 21.07 Saturday
Ethnoambient Salona
Gradina, Solin, www.ethnoambient.net. The spirit of
this event is global whilst it firmly remains local. This yearly
gathering truly defines how diverse world music really is. It
presents musicians who get their inspiration in combining
traditional and contemporary music from their countries of
origin. Hear sounds from around the globe with this musical
celebration of cultural differences! Hear the sounds of Lo Cor
de La Plana, S.A.N.S. and Kries.
28.07 Saturday
WestBam
D-3, Bačvice beach. Check out Germany‘s DJ King who
has done more for the techno/dance scene on home soil
then most politicians in a lifetime. WestBam can crossover
different styles and will whip up singles such as Hold me back,
Celebration Generation, Bam Bam Bam and Sunshine as the
beach at Bačvice becomes a dance hot spot.
30.07 Monday - 03.08 Friday
Supertoon
Bol, Brač, info@supertoonfestival.com, www.
supertoonfestival.com. Hop onto the island of Brač and
in particular the town of Bol for some animation action. The
latest Croatian and world animations in film and music videos
are up for awards with a competition programme organised.
split.inyourpocket.com
Kula Gallery, Velimir Veličković
Culture & events
17.08 Friday - 20.08 Monday
Days of Diocletian
The Emperor Diocletian returns and will we see his wrath
once more. In a splendid re-enactment of ancient rule, for
four nights citizens dressed in costume wander along the
city streets as the Emperor himself is led by carriage by an
entourage of guards to the Peristyle. Embrace the past with
gladiator performances, singers and a street music festival.
Dig and delve into the Roman feast by tasting delicacies
made from natural local ingredients (honey, fruit, vegetables,
shellfish, and spices) as prepared according to traditional
old recipes.
23.08 Thursday - 26.08 Sunday
Split Tribal Fest - The Festival of Modern
Oriental Dance
J-2, Peristil, www.splittribalfest.com. A grand dance
spectacle with over 200 performers set to make Split hip!
Tribal dance is a combo of oriental belly dance, flamenco,
Indian kathak dance, hip hop, ballet, martial arts and
contemporary dance. The glitter and glare are topped by rich
costumes, crazed hairstyles and more. Did we mention that
dance workshops will be held? Sign up ASAP!
Culture Centres
MAG Festival
25.05 - 29.06, Boris Bućan, Gorki Žuvela , Split Art Gallery
-An exhibition organised as part of the ‘One on One‘ cycle
Alliance Fraincaise I-2, Marmontova 3, tel. (+385-
21) 34 72 90, info@alliance-francaise-split.com,
www.alliance-francaise-split.com. Q Open 08:00
- 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
MKC-Multimedia Culture Centre
(Multimedijalni kulturni centar) D/E-2, Savska
bb, tel. (+385-21) 53 74 49/(+385-21) 53 74 71,
mkcsplit@mkcsplit.hr, www.mkcsplit.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Summer 2012
13

14 Culture & events
Split Film Festival
15.09 Saturday - 22.09 Saturday
Split Film Festival - International Festival
of New Film
info@splitfilmfestival.hr, www.splitfilmfestival.hr.
There is no festival like it, are the words of English film
director Stuart Pound as the 17th edition of the Split Film
Festival is set to offer 8 days of mouth-watering specials
for all film aficionados. Take out your diaries and lock
in the competition programme with feature and short
films, then there is the latest in world documentaries,
erotica, a tribute to Swiss film, Mediterranean films, new
media and dare we forget the side programmes which
include (lectures, presentations, workshops and informal
gatherings), and more... Hmmm 8 days you say! Yes and
its open to all new innovative, personal, experimental,
subversive and radical creations from all genres. It might
not be Hollywood but it gives world film its very own
platform. The opening of the festival will be at the Central
Cinema whilst screenings will take place at the Karaman
Cinema, Zlatna vrata Kinoteka and the MKC exibition
space in Dom mladež. Movies are scheduled daily from
17:00 to 23:00. Part of the programme is free; otherwise
it is 15kn per ticket.
Concerts of classical music during the Split Summer
Festival, held in the Museum Meštrović Crikvine – Kaštilac
30.08 Thursday - 08.09 Saturday
MAGfestival
J-2, City Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.udrugamag.com.
For the 3rd year in a row, as organized by the Young Academic
Musicians Association, a chamber music festival will be held
at the beautiful venue of the Gothic Hall of the Split City
Museum. By purchasing a ticket, visitors will not only be
able to participate in the concert but will also be able to visit
the Split City Museum and see the permanent display of the
Emanuel Vidović Gallery.
08.11 Thursday - 09.11 Friday
The 2nd International Festival of Archaeological
Film in Split
A-3, Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments,
Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, www.mhas-split.hr.
Forget Hollywood and Bollywood for a few days, film fans that
have a deeper desire for archaeology and the protection of
cultural heritage should come hence forth. The event has a
competitive and non-competitive programme, matinee shows
for children and the latest advances in applied archaeology
research and techniques.
Small galleries
Galić Art Salon I-2, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.
hr/str/galic.htm. Q June Open 10:00 -13:00, 17:30 -
20:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open
10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Kula J-2, Kralja Tomislava 10, tel. (+385-) 091 454 66
66/(+385-) 091 386 77 22, galerija.kula@gmail.com,
www.galerija-kula.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 -
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
MKC Gallery D/E-2, Savska bb, Dom mladih, www.
mkcsplit.hr. Q Open during exhibition 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00
- 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Photo Club Split (Galerija fotografije fotokluba
Split) I-2, Marmontova 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 75 97, info@
fotoklubsplit.hr, www.fotoklubsplit.hr. Hugely enjoyable
gallery of contemporary photography with an imaginative
programme of themed exhibitions, featuring international
photographers as well as works by members of the local
photography club. Q Open 10:30 - 12:30 and 18:30 - 22:00,
Sat 10:30 -13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
The cellars of Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanovi
podrumi) I/J-3, hulu-split.hr/str/podrumi.htm. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 35kn.
Cinemas
Central I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata bb, tel. (+385-21) 34
38 13, www.ekran.hr.
Cineplexx City Center One, Vukovarska 207, tel.
(+385-21) 65 11 11, www.cineplexx.hr.
CineStar D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Joker Centre), tel.
(+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr.
Karaman I-2, Ilićev prolaz 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 58
33, www.ekran.hr.
Kinoteka Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel.
(+385-21) 36 13 35, www.pouciliste-split.hr.
Open Cinema Bačvice (Ljetno kino Bačvice)
D-3, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, tel. (+385-21) 34
86 76, www.ekran.hr. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. Open
July, August.
Looking for more?
split.inyourpocket.com
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

Cream of the crop
Atrium J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. (+385-21) 20 00
00, fax (+385-21) 20 01 00, reservations@hotel-atrium.
hr, www.hotel-atrium.hr. You‘re not in the middle of the
action if you‘re staying here, but the entire hotel is modern,
luxurious, comfortable and nicely equipped, with pool, jacuzzi
and free Internet. All the things you want and expect from an
upscale hotel are here. Q128 rooms (125 doubles €170
- 290, 3 suites €550). PHA6UFLGKDCW
hhhhh
Upmarket
Art D-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. (+385-21) 30 23 02,
fax (+385-21) 30 23 00, prodaja@arthotel.hr, www.
arthotel.hr. If you‘re a business traveler with access to a car,
this cube-shaped, modern hotel is a solid choice. Without a
car, you‘ll be a fifteen minute walk from the old town but either
way, you‘ll have an exceedingly comfortable and stylishlydecorated
room with Internet access included in the price.
Q36 rooms (36 singles €125, 36 doubles €165, 36 triples
€185). PHAULGBKW hhhh
Dalmina E-1, Kopilica 5, tel. (+385-21) 35 00 00,
fax (+385-21) 35 00 01, info@hoteldalmina.hr, www.
hoteldalmina.hr. The location is a bit drab and off the
beaten path, but everything you need for a decent stay
is on offer: Internet, free on-site parking, complimentary
breakfast and more. Q52 rooms (30 singles €89, 30
doubles €121, 18 Twin Rooms €121, 4 Family Rooms €164).
PHAULKXW hhhh
Globo D-2, Lovretska 18, tel. (+385-21) 48 11 11,
fax (+385-21) 48 11 18, info@hotelglobo.com, www.
hotelgobo.com. A four-star hotel that lives up to its
classification, Globo has a relatively decent location,
exceedingly helpful and cheerful staff and a breakfast that
usually doesn‘t fail to satisfy. Q33 rooms (28 singles €139,
28 doubles €178, 5 triples €217). PHA6LNGKW
hhhh
Luxe D-3, Kralja Zvonimira 6, tel. (+385-21) 31 44 44,
fax (+385-21) 31 44 45, reservations@hotelluxesplit.
com, www.hotelluxesplit.com. Location, location! An
exclusive new four star hotel close to the Diocletian Palace,
bus and trains station. This is not your everyday hotel, it is a
luxury boutique hotel with attention paid to every detail. It has
modern rooms with a Mediterranean feel, a restaurant, a cigar
bar, and wellness amidst quality all-round service. The exterior
is superbly designed blending the ancient stone that defines
Split with a splurge of modernism. Sleek and stylish! Pets
allowed on payment of 7€ per night and a one-off payment
of 14€ for cleaning the room. Q30 rooms (3 singles €130
- 160, 24 doubles €115 - 250, 1 Deluxe Suites €400 - 450,
2 Prestige Suite €250 - 315). PHA6UFLGXW
hhhh
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant C Swimming pool
D Sauna 6 Animal friendly
www.inyourpocket.com
split.inyourpocket.com
where to stay
APARTMENTS AND ROOMS
Spinčićeva 33e, 21000 Split
Croatia
Tel: +385 21 782 323
Mob: +385 98 708 578
info@adriaticqueen.net
Summer 2012
15

16 where to stay
Marmont I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-21) 30 80
60/(+385-) 091 629 01 99, fax (+385-21) 30 80 70,
booking@marmonthotel.com, www.marmonthotel.
com. Boutique hotel in an old stone house with imaginative
modern add-ons (the breakfast room is an attractive
triangular wedge). All rooms have parquet floors, creamy
colour schemes and views of neighbouring, green-shuttered
buildings. There is a reasonable amount of desk space,
big TVs, and wifi coverage throughout. The classy modern
bathrooms come with either bath or shower cubicle - although
even the latter are pretty spacious and seem to have been
made with splashing around as a twosome in mind. Q22
rooms (21 singles €157 - 178, 21 doubles €230 - 250, 1
Presidential Suite €1270 - 1805). PALGW hhhh
Park D-3, Hatzeov perivoj 3, tel. (+385-21) 40 64 00,
fax (+385-21) 40 64 01, sales@hotelpark-split.hr, www.
hotelpark-split.hr. For an upscale establishment with over
fifty rooms, the amenities have made themselves relatively
scarce through the eighty-seven years of this hotel‘s life.
There‘s no pool, the rooms‘ bathrooms are small and service
can be a bit slow. The location close to Bačvice and the quiet
atmosphere make up for these small problems though, and
the outdoor terrace, accented by gently swaying palm trees, is
hard not to love. Pets can stay by arrangement. Q58 rooms
(21 singles €124 - 145, 35 doubles €164 - 198, 2 Junior
Suites €317 - 359). PHA6ULGBKDW hhhh
President D-2, Starčevićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 30 52
22, fax (+385-21) 30 52 25, hotel.president@st.t-com.
hr, www.hotelpresident.hr. Just outside the walls of the
old town near the Croatian National Theatre stands the
President, a comfy hotel with stylish decorations in earthy,
natural tones. Double rooms can be a bit small but if you need
more space to stretch out, the deluxe double should do the
trick. Q73 rooms (8 singles €127, 55 doubles €167 - 233, 10
Presidential Suites €253 - 368). PHA6ULGBKW
hhhh
Radisson Blu Resort Split F-3, Put Trstenika 19,
tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, fax (+385-21) 30 30 31,
info.split@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/
resort-split. Luxurious resort on the compelling Adriatic
Sea, unique rooms and suites in every range with wellappointed
features; two refreshing pools, spas, saunas
and treatments in a wellness oasis, a stunning 900 foot
beach front, authentic Mediterranean cuisine, and so much
more to offer. Q246 rooms (110 singles €172 - 264,
106 doubles €187 - 279, 10 suites €300 - 379, 18 Junior
Suites €300 - 359, 2 Presidential Suites €1000 - 3500).
PTHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhh
Vestibul Palace J-2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. (+385-21)
32 93 29, fax (+385-21) 32 93 33, info@vestibulpalace.
com, www.vestibulpalace.com. The rooms here are a
hip homage to ancient and modern, with rooms decorated
in black, brown and beige, contrasted in suites 3 and 6 with
the original Roman walls that stand exposed. The modernity
and hipness are never taken far enough to make the hotel
uncomfortable, however, making this the most sought-after
and exclusive name for Split‘s visiting elite. Q11 rooms (4
singles €190 - 230, 5 doubles €230 - 315, 1 suite €325 - 480,
1 Junior Suite €265 - 370). PALGBKW hhhh
Mid-range
Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8,
tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, fax (+385-21) 34 00 08, info@
hotel-adriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. Perhaps the
proprietors rely a bit too much on their Riva-front location to
sell their hotel, as some of the rooms are on the small side
and the service has been known to be a bit curt. All in all, this
one is more than adequate for a few nights and the location
is nearly perfect. Q15 rooms (2 singles 700 - 750kn, 11
doubles 950 - 1100kn, 2 apartments 1200 - 1400kn).
PABKXW hhh
Consul D-2, Tršćanska 34, tel. (+385-21) 34 01 30,
fax (+385-21) 34 01 33, hotel-consul@st.t-com.hr,
www.hotel-consul.net. Perhaps a bit pricey considering
the services on offer, but clean, comfortable and friendly
nonetheless. The hotel appears to have been converted from
an old apartment building and is situated in a quiet, residential
area fifteen minutes‘ walk from the center. Q19 rooms (4
singles €90, 9 doubles €130, 2 triples €150, 4 apartments
€205). PHALGBKXW hhh
Kastel I-2, Mihovilova širina 5, tel./fax (+385-21) 34
39 12, tel. (+385-) 091 120 03 48, info@kastelsplit.
com, www.kastelsplit.com. One of the best value small
guesthouses in the city, this tall building sits at the southwest
corner of the palace and is operated professionally and
efficiently. Q9 rooms (1 single €80 - 90, 2 doubles €110
- 115, 1 triple €150 - 155, 2 apartments €184 - 200, 1
Studio Apartment €125 - 135, 2 Twin Rooms €110 - 115).
PAGW hhh
More F-3, Šetalište pape Ivana Pavla ll 27/l, tel. (+385-
21) 46 21 12, fax (+385+21) 46 22 01, hotelmore@
hotelmore.hr, www.hotelmore.hr. Hotel More is actually
a bed and breakfast that operates in an interesting cascadestyle
building on the waterfront, a short walk from the old
town. The vibe is calm, comfortable and relaxed. Q9 rooms
(8 singles €85 - 107, 8 doubles €107 - 130, 1 suite €117 -
159). PAULGW hhh
Peristil J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. (+385-21) 32
90 70, fax (+385-21) 32 90 88, booking@hotelperistil.
com, www.hotelperistil.com. Given the excellent
furnishings, superior location and lovely view from the terrace
on the roof, you might be pleasantly surprised to discover
that the cost for a night at the Peristil isn‘t anywhere in the
neighbourhood of an arm and a leg. An added bonus is the
excellent Tifani Restaurant on the ground floor, where chefs
whip up food in open kitchens. Q12 rooms (3 singles €135,
9 doubles €162). PA6BKW hhh
Slavija I-2, Andrije Buvine 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 38 40,
fax (+385-21) 32 38 68, info@hotelslavija.hr, www.
hotelslavija.hr. Slavija‘s stellar location in the palace and
recent renovations are its big draws, but the location can
also be a thorn in the side of those who treasure their
beauty sleep. The loudest and rowdiest bars in the old town
are located nearby. Q25 rooms (6 singles €113 - 126, 11
doubles €144 - 166, 8 triples €170 - 180). PA6LGW
hhh
As E-1, Kopilica 8a, tel. (+385-21) 36 61 00, fax
(+385-21) 36 61 11, info@hotelas-split.com, www.
hotelas-split.com. If you‘re willing to travel a bit to get to it,
this is another solid choice on the outskirts of town. A modern
building with the expected additions to make for a pleasant
and comfortable stay. Q33 rooms (33 singles 550kn, 33
doubles 720kn). PALKW hhh
Fun for the whole family
split.inyourpocket.com
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

18 where to stay
Hostels
Golly&Bossy I-2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel.
(+385-21) 51 09 99, info@gollybossy.com, www.
gollybossy.com. Have you ever been to a designer
hostel? Kid you not, this will knock your socks off, it has
escalators for all 3 floors, free WiFi all-round, a DJ booth,
small theatre, kitchenette, a restaurant, a 15 meter bar
with drinks aplenty, waterfront views and is literally less
than a one minute walk to the waterfront. Price wise, it
matches most other hotels but with features you would
not believe! Hostel also offers private rooms, for more
information about prices contact the hostel. Q 99
dorm beds, 27 - 33€ per person. PJHABKW
Silver Central I-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-
21) 49 08 05, silvercentralhostel@gmail.com,
www.silvercentralhostel.com. Bright, high-ceilinged
apartment with a welcoming reception/common room
and a trio of 6- to 8-bed dorms, each with its own
internet terminal. Q 26 dorm beds, 150 - 190kn per
person. PJNW
Silver Gate D-3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 28
57/(+385-) 098 995 58 78, silvergatehostel@gmail.
com, www.silvergatehostel.com. Run by the same
team as Silver Central and offering pretty much the same
deal, the hostel occupies an atmospheric apartment
building with fine views of the Palace‘s eastern gate. Q
26 dorm beds, 150 - 190kn per person. PNW
Split Hostel Booze and Snooze I-2, Narodni trg
8, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 87, info@splithostel.com,
www.splithostel.com. Right round the corner from the
medieval main square, this is a cute and cosy hostel run by
a helpful and informative team. Soon to be opening a new
annexe a couple of streets away, complete with basement
bar. Q 16 dorm beds, 12 - 25€ per person. PGW
Sunseekers I-2, Poljana stare gimnazije 1, tel.
(+385-) 091 521 64 52, sunseekers@net.hr. A top
stop over for travellers with four dormitories consisting
of various bed numbers, two bathrooms, a chill out room,
free Wi-Fi, air con, safety lockers and other goodies. 18th
century building and if location means anything, you are
in the heart of Split. Great staff! Q 18 dorm beds, 110
- 150kn per person. PJGW
Tchaikovsky Hostel D-2, Ulica Petra Iliča
Čajkovskog 4, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 24/(+385-)
099 195 04 44, info@tchaikovskyhostel.com,
www.t-hostel.com. Boutique type hostel with attention
paid to detail; 20 beds on offer and each with a private
curtain, reading light and more. Real mattresses, real
pillows, reasonable rates and the real deal! Informative
staff that will answer your every question. Q 20 dorm
beds, 110 - 180kn per person. PJAG
Old-School charm
Bellevue I-2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. (+385-21)
34 56 44, fax (+385-21) 36 23 83, bellevue@inet.hr,
www.hotel-bellevue-split.hr. Today‘s hotel Bellevue is
located on the Riva next to the church of Saint Francis and
on the south-west wing of the Prokurative. It was once a hotel
offering curative baths to guests whilst its café was a meeting
place for rich clientele. In 1906, it received its name „Grand
hotel Bellevue“, and was later renovated in 1934. Famous
writers such as Anatole France, George Bernard Shaw and
Agatha Christie have all lodged here. Today‘s hotel offers
comfortable accommodation and includes the Noštromo
restaurant. Q50 rooms (13 singles 79 - 93kn, 34 doubles
108 - 128kn, 3 triples 143 - 164kn, 3 apartments 153 -
172kn). AR6LBKX hhh
Budget
Dujam E-2, Velebitska 27, tel. (+385-21) 53 80 25,
fax (+385-21) 53 72 58, info@hoteldujam.com, www.
hoteldujam.com. Saint Dujam (a.k.a. Doimus, Domnio and
Domnius), patron saint of Split, moonlights as the patron saint
of budget travelers by lending his endorsement to this hotel,
located about a fifteen minute walk from the center. Those
keeping a cautious eye on their cash flow will appreciate
the clean rooms and functional furnishings. Q35 rooms (4
singles €60 - 66, 29 doubles €79 - 93, 2 apartments €99 -
112). PHALGKW hh
Brač
Bluesun Hotel Borak Put Zlatnog rata bb, Bol, tel.
(+385-21) 30 62 02, fax (+385-21) 30 62 15, borak@
bluesunhotels.com, www.brachotelborak.com. The
lush surroundings and whopping 150 square meter pool are
eye-catching. Not to mention the 184 modern guestrooms
all decked with a balcony and essentials. Buffet meals
are served throughout the day. Numerous complimentary
specials are provided to all guests. Positioned 50 meters
from the beach and close to the town centre. Prices are
per person/per day. Q184 rooms (133 doubles €69
- 86, 3 suites €80 - 117, 48 Family Rooms €80 - 117).
PTAFLGKXCW hhhh
Pastura Vrilo 28, Postira, tel. (+385-21) 74 00 00,
fax (+385-21) 63 21 09, pastura@st.t-com.hr, www.
hotelpastura.hr. It‘s perfectly located on the promenade
with ocean views from the restaurant or aperitif bar. Amenities
include an outdoor fresh water pool, fitness hall, Jacuzzi, sauna
and massage. Modern and set in peaceful surroundings. Q50
rooms (31 doubles €44 - 82, 6 suites €48 - 86, 4 apartments
€52 - 135, 8 Junior Suites €46 - 84, 1 Presidential Suite €48 -
86). PTAUFLGBKDCW hhhh
Waterman Svpetrvs Resort Put Vele Luke 4, Supetar,
tel. (+385-21) 63 11 33, fax (+385-21) 63 13 44,
sales@watermanresorts.com, www.watermanresorts.
com. Comprising residences Kaktus, Villa Diana, Villa Maria,
Meridien, Agava, Salvia and Olea the Svpetrvs Resort has a
lot of things going for it that might make it an irresistible choice
while on Brač. Given the fact that it‘s part of a consortium of
hotels, there are a load of services on-site that other hotels
in the same price range simply cannot offer, like indoor and
outdoor pools, an abundance of tennis courts and sports
areas and a fitness and wellness center. It also happens to
be located right on the beach. Q440 rooms (78 singles €65
- 131, 78 doubles €52 - 85, 277 triples €52 - 85, 63 suites
€58 - 116, 22 Junior Suites €55 - 98). Prices are per person.
PTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhh
Hvar
Croatia Majerovica bb, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 74 24
00, fax (+385-21) 74 17 07, croatia-hvar@st.t-com.hr,
www.hotelcroatia.net. Ah, tranquil surroundings. Peace
and quiet! Hotel Croatia has a laid-back atmosphere that
you can enjoy from your seafront balcony or on the pebble
beach the hotel has access to. This is a prime choice for
travelers looking to relax and soak up some rays. Q28
rooms (22 doubles €70 - 194, 6 Family Rooms €105 - 291).
PJAFLGBKW hhh
Looking for more?
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20 where to stay
Riva Riva bb, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 75 01 00, fax
(+385-21) 75 07 51, reservations@suncanihvar.com,
riva-reception@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar.
com. Ideal for single travelers, party people or friends on
a getaway together, the Riva is a boutique hotel, modern
and chic through and through. Unfortunately, the rooms are
reminiscient of seats on an economy class flight: slightly
cramped and uncomfortable after long periods of time.
There are even, inexplicably, see-through glass windows on
the toilet and shower. Come mentally prepared for these
details, and you‘ll have a blast rocking out in the bar on
the ground floor or relaxing on the patio facing the harbour.
Q54 rooms (46 doubles €167 - 325, 8 suites €253 - 526).
PA6UGKW hhhh
The Palace Trg Sv. Stjepana, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 74 19
66, fax (+385-21) 75 07 51, reservations@suncanihvar.
com, palace@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar.com.
If you were to build a palace of your own, you just might choose
to build it on the exact space that this hotel occupies, right
on the harbour on the sunny island of Hvar. You probably
wouldn‘t, however, choose to deck it out with quite the same
furniture or decorations. If you choose to brave the dated
interior, make sure you ask for a room with a view. Q73
rooms (4 singles €53 - 75, 57 doubles €84 - 194, 12 suites
€135 - 238). PHA6GKCW hhh
Kaštela
Adria Dr. Franje Tuđmana 969, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-
21) 79 81 40, fax (+385-21) 79 81 50, info@hotel-adria.
hr, www.hotel-adria.hr. If waking up for that 06:00am flight
intimidates you a bit, Hotel Adria‘s location can afford you a
few extra winks the night before and has comfortable rooms
and a pleasant staff to boot. If the sound of planes taking
off and landing distracts you, close the windows, crank up
the AC and the noise virtually disappears. Q11 rooms (2
singles €51 - 61, 5 doubles €72 - 86, 4 triples €100 - 116).
PALBKW hhh
Podstrana
Le Meridien Lav Grljevačka 2a, Podstrana, tel. (+385-
21) 50 05 00, fax (+385-21) 50 03 00, reservations_
split@lemeridien.com, www.lemeridien.com/split.
Brand new and exclusive with 381 guest rooms and suites.
Set on a marina promenade; expect to be dazzled by the
multitude of restaurants, bars, cafes, plus casino, sports
bar and nightclub. Furthermore, the recreational complex
and the astounding Diocletian Spa and Wellness Centre are
state of the art. With over 800m of beach frontage, it really
is paradise. This ultra-modern new hotel complex is located
8km from the centre of Split. Q381 rooms (370 singles
€290, 370 doubles €330 - 480, 2 Diplomatic Suites €1300,
2 Family Suites €700, 5 Junior Suites €650, 2 Presidential
Suites €2200). POTHA6UFLGBKDCwW
hhhhh
Split.inyourpocket.com
Finding a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with
Split In Your Pocket and Booking.com. Simply surf our
conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably
updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the
button and hey presto! You’re through to our reservations
site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot
is hot to trot, and off you go!
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San Antonio Grljevačka 30, Podstrana, tel. (+385-
21) 33 61 11, fax (+385-21) 33 53 48, info@hotelsanantonio.com,
www.hotel-sanantonio.com. The words
“San Antonio” cull up images of Texas, but Texas this is not.
This particular San Antonio is a four-star hotel right on the
beach in Podstrana, 8km from the old town. High-speed
Internet is available, along with a whole list of other amenities.
Ideal for long sessions of quiet chilling on the beach. Q23
rooms (15 singles €155 - 170, 15 doubles €190 - 210, 15
triples €220 - 245, 6 suites €200 - 325, 2 Penthouses €240
- 275). PHAFLGBKDC hhhh
Trogir
Pašike Sinjska bb, Trogir, tel. (+385-21) 88 51 85/
(+385-) 091 484 84 34, fax (+385-21) 79 77 29, info@
hotelpasike.com, www.hotelpasike.com. While the
amenities and services are thoroughly modern, the decor
and the rich wood furniture is thoroughly 19th and early 20th
century, making this one of most the intriguing hotel choices in
the area. Q14 rooms (2 singles 600kn, 11 doubles 800kn, 1
apartment 1200kn). PAGBKXW hhhh
Vis
Biševo Ribarska 96, Komiža, tel. (+385-21) 71 32 79/
(+385-21) 71 31 44, fax (+385-21) 71 30 98, info@hotelbisevo.com,
www.hotel-bisevo.com.hr. Probably the best
bet in tranquil Komiža, this functional and comfortable hotel
comes with some handy pluses like satellite TV and a balcony
for every room. Prices are per person / per day. Q130
rooms (2 singles 310 - 480kn, 123 doubles 240 - 370kn,
5 apartments 300 - 463kn). PTALBKXW hh
Issa Šetalište A.Zanelle 5, Vis, tel. (+385-21) 71 11 24,
fax (+385-21) 71 17 40, hotel-issa@vis-hoteli.hr, www.
vis-hoteli.hr. While it is located just a stone‘s throw from
the center of Vis Town, the hotel is still surrounded by plenty
of green and lots of clear, sparkling water. Every room has a
balcony looking out onto the bay. Prices are per person / per
day. Q125 rooms (125 singles 310 - 575kn, 125 doubles
235 - 460kn). PALBK hhh
Camp Baško Polje
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International
Aci Grašo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 85
60, restaurantadriatic@yahoo.com, www.adriatic-graso.
com. With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the
Aci Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any of
the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine with fine
wine as you linger over the views and visit the cigar bar. Parking
is free. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 110kn). PAGB
Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8,
tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, info@adriana.hr, www.hoteladriana.hr.
This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always
attracts a crowd. Why? It‘s a prime location for people
watching and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or
any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends
and sometimes on weekdays come summer time. Fairly
priced! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (60 - 110kn). PAGB
Apetit I-2, Šubićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 49/(+385-)
098 173 07 36, apetit.split@gmail.com, www.apetitsplit.hr.
Apetit is geared both visually and culinarily towards
a modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the
first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beautiful
bare stone walls highlighted with an uplifting green colour,
and is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian classics are
prepared in a pleasingly simple way with just a twist to bring
them up to date. There are vegetarian choices, and top
quality wine is served by the glass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30.
(60 - 100kn). PJAG
Boban E-3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel. (+385-21) 54 33 00,
info@restaurant-boban.com, www.restaurant-boban.
com. The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are
beautiful settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared
with traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the
best with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This
place does it all, and does it well. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 110kn). PAGB
split.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
O Casino 6 Animal friendly
R Internet B Outside seating
Cardo J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium), tel.
(+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotel-atrium.hr. A touch of
class with an elegant and modern décor backed by some
cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine that
encompasses all of the Mediterranean‘s charm and a wine list
to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet and is
sure to please. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). PAG
Duje D-2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. (+385-21) 54 81
00, mail@restoranduje.hr, www.restoranduje.hr.
This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports
recreation centre - Koteks. It‘s a classic family eatery with
a predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (65 - 400kn). PAGB
Kadena E-3, Ivana pl. Zajca 4, tel. (+385-21) 38 94
00/(+385-) 091 522 66 85, info@restorankadena.com,
www.restorankadena.com. Dine with a view in a restaurant
which prides itself on fine Mediterranean cuisine. Reserve a
window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto
the terrace and gaze across to the Dalmatian islands. The
fish platter ala Kadena is just one of the many delights on
offer. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (80 -
130kn). PAGB
Le Monde H-1, Plinarska 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 65,
www.lemonde.hr. Dine with a touch of class as this slightly
hidden restaurant boasts a trim interior and a choice of
terraces. Dalmatian fish and meat specialties are on the
menu along with local wine. It‘s tucked away in the busy
Varoš district but worth the visit. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
Sun 15:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn). PAGB
Mediteranium Put Firula 6, tel. (+385-21) 78 23 79,
mediteranium@live.com, www.mediteraniumsplit.com.
New to town and has a spark of class to it. Located close to
the beach, the menu reverberates both modern and balanced
with fish and meats nicely paired. Informative waiters, fair
wine selection with fair prices... And the Lounge Bar is set
up to unwind with purple fluorescent lights in the backdrop
and light music. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. EB
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2012
21

22 restaurants
Pizza
Theirs is of the thin-crust variety, and the centre will more
closely resemble a soup if you don‘t give it time to cool.
There‘s no shortage of variations on the theme, and a bonus
for the economically challenged is the relatively miniscule
price of a pie, 25 - 45kn. Key to toppings: feferoni (peppers),
frutti di mare (seafood), gljiva (mushrooms), maslina (olive),
rajčica / pomidor (tomato), sir (cheese), slanina (bacon),
šunka (ham).
Galija I-2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79 32.
The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near
the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the
bathroom but that‘s all part of the fun. They serve a wide
selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive
portions QOpen 09:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (38 -
110kn). PAGB
Gušt J-1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 63 33. You‘ve
got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it‘s right at the
top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store
Prima Grad and take the street on the right. After 50m, turn
left and take an immediate left again. There you‘ll find Gušt,
a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (36 - 50kn). PAG
Fast food
Delta I-2, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, tel. (+385-21)
33 84 60. Stop in for a quick pastry snack and tasty
sandwich. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (10 - 18kn). B
Kantun Paulina I-2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21)
39 59 73. Some situations just call for a nice serving
of ćevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova,
and this little stand on the corner serves them up right.
There‘s no seating available but you can park it on a
bench at the street and watch the night-time drama
unfold. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
Mc Donald‘s D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Center Joker),
tel. (+385-21) 49 33 20, www.mcdonalds.hr. It is
there. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (7 - 39.5kn). PAB
Rizzo I-2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 83 49/
(+385-) 091 574 07 64. Another player in the local
snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of
sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function
perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (6 - 18kn). B
www.inyourpocket.com
Maslina I-2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 88,
konmaslina@net.hr. A cute little restaurant that‘s a tad
hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off
Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the
prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to
mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta. Q Open 11:00 -
24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (33 - 120kn). PAGB
Velo misto No 1 H-1, Matoševa 63, tel. (+385-21) 38
47 77. There are two Velo Misto‘s, one located in Spinut near
the tunnel which offers a decent wood-fire pizza and the other
Velo Misto is located in Zenta (Šetalište Kalafata bb) with a
huge terrace that overlooks the sea. Velo Misto by the way,
was the name of a popular TV series with performances by
top Split theatre thespians. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 23:30. (32 - 140kn). PAG
Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. (+385-21) 34
50 15. Located inside the palace walls, this restaurant takes
the name ‘The Golden Gate‘ and is surrounded by a lovely
courtyard that brings much needed shade come summer. The
wood fire oven produces great thin based pizzas. The salads
are significantly filling. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun.
(20 - 60kn). PNGB
Seafood
Bota Šare D-3, Bačvice bb, tel. (+385-21) 48 86 48,
www.bota-sare.hr. Situated right above the Bačvice Beach
with an extensive seafood menu, this eatery is extremely
popular amongst locals and tourists. A refined interior and
extensive wine list provide the finishing touches. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 400kn). PAGBW
Jugo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 89 00. Fish
dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to your liking.
Dine in or venture out onto the terrace with magical views of
the old town. The yachts moored in the ACI Marina are only
a stepping stone away making the walk on the Riva ever so
pleasant. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). PAGB
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

24 restaurants
Photo Competition Be Local!
Be local! Send us a photo on the theme “I’ll be back
in Zagreb” (Vraćam se Zagrebe tebi..) and win one of
four brilliant Lufthansa suitcases, perfect as carry-on
luggage. Then you’ll be all set to take advantage of
Lufthansa’s great prices: fly direct to Berlin for only
€49!*
For each of the next four issues of Zagreb In Your
Pocket, one lucky person will win one of these great
prizes. You can even enter all four if you’re feeling lucky!
The four competitions run during the following dates:
1. 1 April - 15 May 2012
2. 25 May - 10 July 2012
3. 20 July - 1 September 2012
4. 15 September - 20 October 2012
You can send up to 5 photographs for each competition.
An expert jury will carefully evaluate all applications and
pick one winner for each of the four competitions.
The results will be published in Zagreb In Your Pocket
issue nos. 66, 67, 68 and 69, out in June, August,
October and December, as well as on the Web page
www.inyourpocket.com/country/croatia.
Mistral F-3, Put Trstenika 19 (Radisson Blu Resort,
Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, info.split@radissonblu.
com, www.radissonblu.com. Be lured by this immaculate
beachside dining experience with amazing views of the
Adriatic Sea set over two decks. The bar is literally on the
beach and packs refreshments of every sort imaginable.
If you‘re peckish, Mistral serves up specialties in seafood
and meat on the grill, plus other delicacies. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. (100 - 700kn). TALEGBXSW
Noštromo I-2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091
405 66 66, info@restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restorannostromo.hr.
Here‘s your chance to sample a typical Croatian
menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well.
Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in
the area and you‘ll be charged accordingly for the privilege
of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the
ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). PNG
Posejdon I-2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49.
Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local
Dalmatian specialties, and this is of no exception with an
assortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer.
It‘s located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace,
when you pass ‘Ispod ure‘ (under the clock tower) simply turn
right. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 200kn). PJAGB
Stellon D-3, Preradovićevo šetalište bb, tel. (+385-21)
48 92 00. Stelon‘s menu is loosely based on Mediterranean
cuisine. The restaurant overlooks the beach and has
a pleasingly contemporary ambience, creating relaxed
surroundings for enjoying a good meal. Be sure to reserve
your seat during the summer! QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:30. (45 - 390kn). AGB
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How to Enter
Send your photos to foto.inyourpocket@gmail.com or to
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Draškovićeva 66, 10 000 Zagreb ,
marked “Photo Competition”.
Please send the following information with your photos:
your name, address, telephone number, e-mail address,
name of the photo, and place where the photo was
taken.
The photographs must be in JPEG (.jpg) format. The
minimum resolution of each photograph must be
300 dpi, with a maximum file size of up to 5 MB. The
dimensions of the photos must be 30x40cm. You can
send your photos by post on a CD or by e-mail.
Conditions of Entry
We’re sorry, but we can’t return CDs sent for the
purposes of the competition. The competition
organizers will retain the photos on a permanent
basis for non-commercial purposes together with
the name of the photographer. Entrants to the
competition will be added to the Lufthansa
newsletter mailing list.
*Berlin for only €49! - one way ticket; all taxes and fees
included.
Zrno soli C-2, Uvala baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 93
33, zrnosoli.split@gmail.com, www.zrnosoli.hr. This
restaurant has class written all over it. New to the scene, it
is stylish both in and out, it is located at the ACI Marina and
has lovely views of the yachts. The cuisine is Mediterranean,
the service is second to none and if you do not mind forking
out the extra dollar, you will definitely get what you pay
for. Quality all-round! QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. (30 - 80kn).
PAGBXW
The Olive Oil Week
21.06 Thursday - 24.06 Sunday
I-2/3 Riva, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda,
www.maslinovoulje.hr. One of Croatia’s famous
exports and by golly you’ll meet an expert or two
here. Get the be all end all of olive oil with shows on
combining olive oil with food and ingredients, as well as
communication, design, labelling and packaging of olive
oil products
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Traditional
Fife H-3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52
23/(+385-) 098 40 37 30, www.buffet-fife.com. Long
regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian
home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point
for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. Expect big,
tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef
cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta),
tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife‘s only
drawback is it‘s popularity with tourist guide-book writers,
who have praised the place so much in recent years that it
can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high
season. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (10 - 50kn). PNGBX
Hvaranin H-2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 091 767
58 91. To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a
konoba, ‘small old stone buildings‘ where fisherman once
spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as
fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white risotto
deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija.
Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 300kn). PNG
Light bites
Croissant French Food D-3, Kraj Sv. Marije 6.
Charming little bakery/patisserie type store located in
the heart of the city. The scent of freshly baked pastries
radiate with soufflé, tuna salad, bread and croissants
directly from France, pasta to go, cakes, and other
scrumptious goodies. Take out only! QOpen 07:30 -
22:30, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. (8 - 28kn). A
Šperun deva H-2, Šperun 2. Firstly, there exists Šperun
and Šperun Deva! In the first you can eat and dine well,
and in the other you can definitely take advantage for
breakfast or a good glass of wine and cheese. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. (20 - 60kn). PNB
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restaurants
Kod Joze J-2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97.
Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely
delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided
your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia)
at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged,
satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music
is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a
knock out. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
(50 - 400kn). PAGB
Konoba Leut H-2/3, Siriščevića 1, tel. (+385-21) 49
09 44. This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals
as it offers good quality home-style cooking. A classic of
Dalmatian cuisine is pašticada - stewed beef served with
gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual variant
on the menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad beans. We
particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kučice - clams. Plate salads
are also on the menu for a lighter bite. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(40 - 120kn). PAGB
Konoba Varoš H-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. (+385-21)
39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros.com. It‘s situated
in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior
draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary
but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a
big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the
blue (oily) fish or octopus. It‘s a tad pricey but popular with
locals and the wine list is endless. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(30 - 150kn). PAGB
Lučica C-2, Lučica 7, tel. (+385-21) 38 67 63. Dining
in Lučica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza ain‘t bad,
actually it‘s quite good. It‘s located at the Spinut Marina,
on the northern side of Mt Marjan. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
(50 - 90kn). PALB
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Summer 2012
25

26 restaurants
Desserts
Bobis-Riva I-3,
Obala hrv.narodnog
preporoda 20. A Split
institution, Bobis has
been providing the city‘s
citizens with delectable
eats since 1950. There
are a load of Bobis stores
dotted throughout town,
but this one has arguably
the best location, as it‘s
right on the Riva. You can
match your coffee with
an appropriate pastry or
choose a pre-wrapped
one to take with you for
your hike around Marjan.
QOpen 06:00 - 22:00,
Sun 07:00 - 22:00.
PNGB
Creme de la Creme I-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. (+385-
21) 35 51 23. You have a sweet tooth and the craving
has hit, so why not wander down to one of the newest
pastry shops in town. Fantastic cakes, homemade
pastries, and desserts served with coffee, liqueurs and
juices. Its minimalistic interior includes some trendy retro
details, everything looks simple and refreshing. Located
opposite the movie theatre Karaman, they also have
a terrace for some outdoor peace and quiet. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. PAGBXW
Galerija J-2, Dominisova 9. The imaginative and
pleasant decor pays perfect compliment to the sweets
on offer and the music tinkling away in the background is
a nice touch. A good alternative to the standard dessert
places around town. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PRNGBW
Kuća sladoleda Carmen I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 6,
tel. (+385-21) 34 49 89. Cool off at Kuća Carmen as
they offer you a wide range of ice-creams and beverages.
From the creamy to the fruity, it has it all the flavors. It‘s
close to the Croatian National Theatre, therefore hard to
miss. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. PNGB
La Maison de Sarah I-3, Obala hrv. narodnog
preporoda 20. The proprietors of La Maison de
Sarah meet the pastry demands of coffee-sipping
Riva-ites nicely with a whole selection of handmade
delights, including authentic French tarts and pastries.
Unfortunately, it‘s not actually a house - all the pastries
are take-away only. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. NS
Tradicija I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21) 36 10 70.
This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand
old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits,
cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to
tradition - just as the name itself! QOpen 08:00 - 21:30,
Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. N
Oštarija u Viđakovi D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel.
(+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27. With a
fine location just steps away from Bačvice beach, this is
a family-run bistro serving up some of the best traditional
fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced
meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out an extensive
menu, although you can opt for fancy fish and lobster dishes
if you‘re in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs
room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the
roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger
gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils
and black-and-white photos of old Split help to keep things
cosy wherever you choose to sit. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(45 - 360kn). PAGB
Pimpinella E-3, Spinčićeva 2a, tel. (+385-21) 38 96
06/(+385-) 091 121 30 14, pimpinellast@yahoo.com.
A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family house.
The menu includes grilled meals, pašticada, roast lamb with
vegetables and much more. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. (45 - 70kn). PAGB
Šperun H-2, Šperun 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99. A cute
buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the
Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local
cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated
with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special
is often a good bet. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 130kn).
PJAGB
Terra Antika D-3, Prilaz Braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-
21) 31 48 01. This cellar restaurant and wine bar located
in Bačvice stows authentic Croatian vino that simply delights
whilst nibbling on tapas Croatian style. The varied menu
features prosciutto and dishes infused with flavoursome
Istrian truffles. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn).
PAGB
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restaurants
Summer 2012
27

28 CaFÉs restaurants
Bakery
Kruščić I-2, Obrov 6, tel. (+385-) 099 261 23 45. Are
you picky about bread? Then just above the fish market
sits a bread shop which serves baked bread without
additives. They are also famous for replicating a type of
Roman bread made of wheat, goat cheese and honey.
QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JX
Zlatna ribica I-2, Kraj Sv. Marije 8, tel. (+385-21) 34
87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Unpretentious little bar
located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood
to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide
the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in. QOpen
06:00 - 22:00. (40 - 70kn). PNG
Vegetarian
Makrovega I-2, Leština 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40,
info@makrovega.hr, www.makrovega.hr. If you‘re in need
of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg…you‘ll find them all
here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices.
The veggies are home grown or organic. QOpen 09:00 -
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 70kn). PNG
Wine bar
Hedonist K-3, Kuzmanićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 380
39 66. A fancy schmancy interior that houses traditional
Dalmatian wines, authentic souvenirs and gift packages!
The bar is set in a traditional stone building, perfect for wine
and only minutes from the Riva. The owner Igor is quite the
connoisseur, he does offer wine tastings accompanied with
various local delicacies. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 -
21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00 and by prior arrangement. Sun by
prior arrangement. NW
Paradox I-1, Poljana Tina Ujevića 2. This has ‘Dalmatia‘
written all over it with over 100 wines and 20 or so cheeses
that are primarily local produce. Pick and choose whatever
suits your taste buds. QOpen 07:30 - 23:30. JBX
Tapas
Tapas bar Split I-2, Tončićeva 6, tel. (+385-21)
27 62 51, tapasbar.st@gmail.com. Menu wise it‘s
definitely friendly towards both vegetarians and meat
lovers. A broad choice of sandwiches, burgers, salads
(includes the Diocletian Salad), various hot n cold dishes,
pasta, paella, desserts and super omlettes for that
important morning meal. Fair prices for any travelling
tourist, simple and cute interior! QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
JAB
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Bajamonti I-2, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10
33. The stunning Prokurative Square is home to this brand
new classical café and restaurant which is named in honour
of Antonio Bajamonti, a famous 19th century Mayor of the
city. Choose to sip coffee downstairs or head upstairs to
the restaurant and terrace which houses Croatian and in
particular local Dalmatian cuisine combined with assorted
Mediterranean, French and Italian specialties. Opened just
weeks ago, it is sleek and of high quality. QOpen 07:30 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00. PAGBX
Ćakula D-3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6,
www.kavana-cakula.hr. Right on the Riva, the sea breeze
gently blows whilst you order your beverages from sunrise till
dawn. Choose from the fine range of beers, spirits, liqueurs,
and cocktails on offer and don‘t forget peruse the café interior
with its renaissance like frescoes in what is a gorgeous
setting. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.
PJABXW
Favola I-2, Trg braće Radić 1 (Voćni trg), tel. (+385-21)
34 48 48. A much needed coffee and newspapers? Here‘s
a great opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this café
along Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they‘d state its
location as the second row by the sea, meaning it‘s not coffee
on the waterfront but directly behind it. It‘s name is Italian for
fairytale and we must absurdly state that the female toilet
is unusually narrow! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PGBX
Gaga I-2, Iza Lože 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 82 57. In the
shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square -
Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can
be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the
interesting local folk. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00
- 02:00. PNBXW
Galerija J-2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15. Once you are
seated pick and choose from a whole range of coffee sorts
that go down well with the walnut cakes, strudels, frappes
and chocolate fondues on offer. Those pursuing something
stronger have numerous fruit cocktails, local/international
beers, wines and liquors to keep you jostling! QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. PGBW
Kalafatić E-3, Cvjetna 1, tel. (+385-21) 57 13 09. If you
wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good choice is
to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are perfect for lazying
around with a coffee and friendly company. With a view of the
bay and boats and the smell of the sea, it‘s a real treat. Be
sure to take a stroll around the whole picturesque bay all the
way to the popular Bačvice beach. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. Open 10:00 - 24:00 (Restaurant).
(50 - 110kn). PAGBW
Kavana Figa I-2, Buvinina 1. It‘s easy to get to Figa, just
take a right from the Voćni trg and straight in the narrow
passage you‘ll find this hip bar with comfortably fitted and
colourful chairs and benches on the outside which contrasts
to its industrially fitted interior. Whether you elect to stand
or sit you‘re sure to enjoy this place, especially its variety of
delish cocktails and DJ beats on weekends. QOpen 08:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNGBXW
Libar I-2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, service@caffe-libar.com,
www.caffe-libar.com. ‘Libar‘ in local dialect means ‘a book‘
and though this isn‘t a library the café interior is chock-full of
handmade themed items. Cosy ambiance indoors and terrace
views that say WOW. Watch sporting events live, respectable
choice of beers and wines at reasonable prices. QOpen
07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00.
PJNBXW
Lvxor J-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82,
lvxor@lvxor.hr, www.lvxor.hr. A titular nod to the sixteen
sphinxes that once guarded the entrance to the mausoleum
(and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxor‘s location on the
Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quality
of the location. There‘s wireless Internet, magazines and
CaFÉs
daily newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu that
includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and
breakfast in the morning. In the warmer months, cushions
are places on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge
around in true imperial style. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. PAGBXW
Plava Laguna E-3, Put Firula 20. A visit to this terraced
beach bar in Firule is perfect after a whole day spent soaking
up the sun and sea. Nearby are a few restaurants and O‘Hara
night club.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00.
BW
Po Bota I-2, Šubićeva 2. If you prefer an intimate affair,
come to this café bar which doubles up as an art exhibition
of the local artists. The terrace borders onto the Fruit square
(Voćni trg) giving a friendly local atmosphere. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. GBX
Šetač I-1, Poljana Tina Ujevića bb. The seven axes
embedded in pieces of wood lining the back wall are what
initially attracted our interest, but, alas, they remained a
mystery. Perhaps you can corner a server and make them
spill the beans regarding their origins. Axes notwithstanding,
the bar‘s large outdoor seating area and small but stylish
interior make for a pleasant enough place to have a coffee
and check out the passersby.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun
08:00 - 24:00. PNBX
Teak caffe J-2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. (+385-21) 78 20
10, teakcaffe@gmail.com. Yep, the interior is all done up in
teak and lined on one side by the original northern wall of the
palace. Outdoor seating is available in a pleasant courtyard,
cozily surrounded by the stone walls of neighbouring buildings.
Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 -
14:00, 20:00 - 24:00. PNGBXW
Teraca Bamba H-3, Solurat 7, tel. (+385-) 091 311
09 98. Give the interior of this one a pass unless the need
arises to weave your way through the tables and patrons to
visit the unisex bathroom. Until then, soak up the resplendent
view from the terrace of ships to-ing and fro-ing across
the harbor. For best results, experience with an attractive
significant other. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 -
02:00. PNBX
Tonik Juicy Bar H-2, Ban Mladenova 5, tel. (+385-21)
39 48 88. A small but charming place for a break in between
checking out the city. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. PNGB
Vidilica C-2/3, Nazorov prilaz 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 49
25. The best thing about this one is the view, and as far as
views go, it doesn‘t get much better. The harbor and the Riva,
the sea and the islands are all on glorious display. Plus, the
cafe‘s location makes it a perfect starting or finishing point
to an afternoon spent exploring Marjan. QOpen 08:00 -
24:00. PGBW
Žbirac D-3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b, anteakrap@
gmail.com, www.zbirac.hr. It is said that this is possibly the
best place in Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy
beach spot has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the
beach. Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during
the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge!
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PNGB
split.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
29

30 nightliFe
Bars
Bifora E-2, Bernardinova 5. Decorated with scenes
from someone‘s psychedelic experience or a particularly
bizarre fairy tale, Bifora has interesting clientele, a quirky,
relaxed vibe and attracts a large number of revelers in the
summer months. Definitely a much-frequented stop for Split
party-goers. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.
PJBX
Buža I-2, Priora Petra 7. Nestled alongside a group of
narrow bars lies Buža, a smaller alternative spot where one
can enjoy the nights with rock music. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. PJBX
Ghetto J-2, Dosud 10. Furry, fluffy seats complemented by
a funk and disco soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not
slightly quirky feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated
to birds and bees. Symbolic? You decide. QOpen 10:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PNBX
Legends bar E-3, Uvala Bačvice. Wanting some
beachfront vibe, then saunter up to this night bar on Bačvice,
the city‘s iconic beach. It‘s a jazz/rock n blues bar with things
heating up every summer as live concerts are often staged
outdoors. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.
AEBX
Mosquito J-2, Majstora Jurja 4. Mosquito squeezes a
great deal into a small space, with spiral staircases linking
an upstairs-downstairs jumble of expertly mis-matched
furnishings and bright interior colours. There‘s plenty of
loungey furniture to slump into, and a popular terrace outside.
Serves draught Guinness. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. PNBXW
Robert Barilla
Hedonist & Egoist Club
Na kantunu J-2, Dominisova 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 41
91. Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge
Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at least
fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you‘ve picked
up any of the local sporting patriotism since your arrival in
the city. Na Kantunu‘s real advantage however is the old-town
location, with outdoor seating in a small square. Serving
bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few Croatian ales
worth drinking) alongside Czech-brewed Lobkowicz, it‘s also
an outstanding place for a beer. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PBX
Red Room J-2, Cararina poljana 4. Hang out of a more
mature and discerning crowd, this intimately lighted and comfy
space has an altogether positive, relaxing vibe enhanced
by light and smooth music. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 02:00. PNBXW
ST Riva I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 18,
info.striva@gmail.com, www.st-riva.com. Shaken, not
stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located along the city
walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot summer nights. Its
greatest value is the sublime views you have of the Riva and
port, one of the better places to chill whilst sipping beverages.
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PJGBW
Robert Barilla
Clubs
Hemingway C-2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, tel.
(+385-) 099 211 99 93, split@hemingway.hr, www.
hemingway.hr. Nope, your fancy trainers won‘t cut it here,
darlings. In fact your plimsoles won‘t even make it past the
door. This is Split‘s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to
believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom
Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai. QOpen 08:00 -
06:00. PAGBXW
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Robert Barilla
Imperium D-3, Gat Svetog Duje bb, tel. (+385-) 095
875 02 19, info@imperium.hr, www.imperium.hr. An out
of this world lounge bar that is utterly translucent with a 3D
like interior and couch booths all round. Loads of natural light
enters and an outdoor terrace offers majestic city views by
day and night. Drinks galore on hand, super staff and really,
this personifies ‘exclusive‘. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00.
June 21 - September 10 Open 23:00 - 06:00. PAEXW
Jungla A-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića bb, tel. (+385-)
095 897 29 21. The new season at this beach bar Jungle
(located under Šetalište I.Meštrović) starts with an electric
beat and continues in that rhythm all summer long. You‘re
invited! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
06:00. PNGBX
nightliFe
O‘Hara E-3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. (+385-) 091 794 13
49, infoohara@gmail.com, www.ohara.hr. Small groups
of Split‘s young hell-raisers mark the way to their partying
Mecca, a beach-side night club with club hits throbbing at
maximum volume and potentially hangover-inducing drink
specials. If you‘re in the mood for a quiet, relaxing weekend
night out, look elsewhere. A lounge and bar area provides
temporary escape from the club crush. QOpen 08:00 -
03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. AGBX
Vanilla C-2, Poljudski put b.b., tel. (+385-) 098 29 25
22. Match the look of Split‘s beautiful people who frequent
this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making
the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. You‘ll find two large
bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes on the
speakers and a hip decor. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 04:00. PAGBX
Robert Barilla
Summer 2012
31

32 what to see
Consisting of an imperial Roman palace that was taken over
by the plebs and turned into a thronging city, central Split is
an attraction in itself. There‘s no single must-see attraction
here: it‘s really a question of taking time to stroll the palace‘s
narrow, tunnel-like streets, where Roman, medieval and
Renaissance buildings jostle together to form a unique urban
jumble. And you shouldn‘t just restrict your wanderings to the
city centre: residential neighbourhoods such as Veli Varoš,
Lučac and Manuš are filled with the kind of picturesque alleys
and stone houses that are so typical of traditional Dalmatian
towns. Rising above the city to the west, Marjan hill presents
an easily accessible expanse of woodland park, with some
fine views back towards the centre.
Rub the Bishops big toe and luck will follow
wherever you go!
Essential Split
Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) I/J-2.
A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the
hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically
any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace
at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home.
Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years
and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region,
including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to
sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian‘s
palace has become the quintessential „living museum“, as
modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the
ancient palace complex.
The part of the palace known as „the basement“ was built
during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments
placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered
up with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now,
it‘s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors
the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit
to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the
palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces
is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern
end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape.
At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle
is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people
leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient
architectural structures.
Fish Market (Ribarnica) I-2, Obrov 5. Upon entering,
you might feel compelled to crack the classic, “Something‘s
fishy here…” joke, but please refrain - it‘s been said before.
What you can do is check out the hustle and bustle of
weighing, cutting, haggling and trading that has been going
on at this site since the fish market moved from its original
location in the south-eastern part of the palace complex in
1843. The interesting smells emanating from the fish market
might be compounded with another distinctive odor wafting
through the air, that of sulphur. There‘s a sulphur spa nearby
whose smell frequently mingles with the smell of fish, creating
a truly interesting amalgamation of aromas.
Green Market (Pazar) J-3. Any traveller worth their salt
wants to get real and rub elbows with some of the locals and
Split‘s Pazar is the place to go to satisfy that desire. Jump
in and join in the hubbub going on, all dedicated to good ol‘
small scale market capitalism. The buying and selling frenzy
involves a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing
and other odds and ends.
Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) A/B-2/3. When ready to
escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia‘s second city, visitors
can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to
the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of
paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests
and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or
walking should be started just like the locals would, with a
drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula
is home to several points of interest, including the remains
of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels
from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps
leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on
the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be
seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as
the island of Vis.
Riva I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda. If you
wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog
preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival),
you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just
ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right
direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront
that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on
its south side. It‘s the de facto gathering spot, day and night,
for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that
have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup
of coffee and people-watching.
Snails are a traditional rubbery delicacy round here
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Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius
(Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) J-2. Eleven of the
twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle
have been destroyed by Christians who took exception
to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth
remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the
mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor‘s tomb has long
since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the
Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian‘s rule do
remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that
can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently
on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter
a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another
enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical
irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian‘s
victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior
of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely
view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.
Veli Varoš H-2. Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is
a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments
that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It‘s well worth taking a stroll
around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what
daily life is like around Split.
split.inyourpocket.com
what to see
Museums
Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-2,
Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93
40, info@armus.hr, www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski.
Even though it‘s situated north of the town centre, Split‘s
archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The
museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum
in Croatia. The museum‘s contents come mainly from central
Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone
epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and
glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of
other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various
historical periods including pre-historic, pre-Christian, Greek
and Medieval. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.
City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) J-2, Papalićeva
1, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72,
muzej-grada-st@st.t-com.hr, www.mgst.net. The Papalić
family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in
the process of becoming one of the city‘s most respected
families, built a small palace to serve as their family‘s home.
Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the
origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his
collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby
Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to
include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments
of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts
of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are
numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts
that help tell the historical story of Split. QOpen 09:00 -
21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 5 -10kn.
Croatian Maritime
Museum (Hrvatski
pomorski muzej)
K-2, Glagoljaška 18
(Gripe Fortress),
tel. (+385-21) 34
73 46, hpms@hpms.
hr, www.hpms.hr.
Spend all your time
cocooned in the old
town and you‘ll miss out on many of Split‘s more quirky
delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one.
It‘s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians
in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and
subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire.
Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model
ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to
twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all
manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval
uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the
ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the Whitehead-
Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka. To finish off,
you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats
while serenaded by shrieking peacocks - a colony of which
roams free on the east side of the fortress. Q Open 09:00
- 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Sun open by prior arrangement.
Admission 5 - 10kn.
Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) J-3,
Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, etnografski-muzejst@st.t-com.hr,
www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr. If you‘re
into making an in-depth examination of Croatia‘s cultural
tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you‘re
in luck. Split‘s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910
and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery
and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like
knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised
in the region over the years. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - September 14 Open 09:00
- 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.
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34 what to see
Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments
(Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) A-3,
Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385-21) 32 39
01/(+385-21) 32 39 05, muzej-has1@st.t-com.hr,
www.mhas-split.hr. Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit
medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the
Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived
a turbulent history that has seen the museum‘s site change
frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection
and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to
the museum‘s current location, opened in 1976, will give
you the chance to view part of the museum‘s 3,000-piece
collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items
spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.
QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.
Galleries
Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel
Vidović) J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21)
36 01 55/(+385-21) 36 01 65, gorana@mgst.net, www.
mgst.net. Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this
beautifully-restored Romanesque house devotes its three
storeys to the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-
1953). Croatia‘s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was
consumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes,
with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing
most of his subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section
of Vidović‘s uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating
re-creation of the artist‘s former studio - including dolls,
curios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures
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by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A Croatian-language film
about Vidović‘s life can be seen on the top floor - worth
watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic
seats you get to sit in. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 16:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.
Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac
B-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385-
21) 34 08 00, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr.
Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist
himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling
the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings
as a stonecutter‘s apprentice to an exalted position in the
international art scene. Meštrović‘s influences ranged from
modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing
an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes
an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside
religiously-inspired works and intimate portraits of family
members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he
produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur
Ninski in Split (see „Landmarks“). After teaching in Zagreb
Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first
at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South
Bend, Indiana in 1962.
A five-minute walk further west along the same road is the
Meštović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a 16th-century summer house
bought by Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel.
Inside lies what is arguably the artist‘s most stunning creation,
a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The
result of 35 years‘ work, the cycle incorporates motifs from
ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an
emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture. QMay -
September Open Tue - Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and
holidays. October - April Open Tue - Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission 15kn
Children, 30kn Adults, 50 kn Family.
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina) J-2, Ulica
kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 11/(+385-21)
35 01 12, galerija-umjetnina@galum.hr, www.galum.
hr. Recently re-opened in its brand-new home (a restored
former hospital), Split‘s main art gallery boasts one of the
Adriatic‘s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is
represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano
and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the
overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian
art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and
Emanuel Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina
Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of
material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Admission 10 - 20kn.
The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske
katedrale) J-2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5. The treasury holds a
collection of golden artifacts and church garments from
the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of
the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatia‘s oldest
manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar
katular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma
Arhiđakon from the 13th century.
split.inyourpocket.com
what to see
Churches
Saint Dominic‘s Church and Monastery (Crkva
i Samostan sv. Dominika) J-2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel.
(+385-21) 32 34 71, samostan.split@dominikanci.hr,
www.dominikanci.hr/zupa-gospe-od-ruzarija. Across from
the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominic‘s
Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its
current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning
of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the
painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano‘ by Jacopo Palma Jr and
the ‘Vision in the Temple‘, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass:
07:00, 08:00, 19:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00,
11:00 and 19:00. Q Open 06:30 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30.
The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva
Gospe od Zvonika) I-2. Just inside the Iron Gates inside
Diocletian‘s Palace you will find the entry to a chapel. Founded
in the 6th century under Byzantine rule, the chapel was
consecrated to St Theodore, patron saint of soldiers. It‘s bell
tower, built around the year 1100 is the oldest Romanesque
bell tower in Dalmatia. The chapel was renamed after a 13th
century medieval icon which once hung in the chapel and is
now kept in the Cathedral Treasury.
The Church of Saint Francis (Samostanska crkva
sv. Frane) I-2, Trg Republike. When you climb to the
Marjan Mountain, you‘ll pass by the church of Saint Francais
(13th century) in which there are headstones that depict
renaissance fine art. The headstones are of famous writer
Marko Marulić (1450-1524), the tombs of Jero Kavanjanin
(1641-1714), Toma Arhiđakon (around 1200-1268) as well
composer Ivan Lukačić (1548-1648). Numerous baroque
paintings and statues decorate the inside of the church, not
to mention the gothic cloister on the outside.
The Church of Saint Martin (Golden gate)
(Crkvica sv. Martina) J-2. The church is 1.64m wide and
10m long and it just might be the smallest church in the world.
It used to be the passage for watchmen who would secure
the entrance into the Diocletian Palace. At the beginning of
the 9th century it was turned into a Christian church and
consecrated to Saint Martin. Next to the church, there is a
Dominican convent. The first nuns arrived to Split in the 14th
century and settled next to the church at the Golden Gates.
They were called picokare. Today, the nuns take care of the
nearby Cathedral of Saint Domnius.
Summer 2012
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36 what to see
Branko Ostojić
The Franciscan Church and Monastery of
the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
(Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja
Blažene Djevice Marije) C-1, Poljudsko šetalište 2,
tel. (+385-21) 38 13 77, samostan.poljud@gmail.com,
www.samostan-poljud.com. On the northern side of the
Split peninsula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you‘ll find the
Franciscan Monastery on Poljud. The name Poljud derives
from the Latin word swamp (Paludes) since until recently, this
area was covered with water. On this very site, Archbishop
Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de
Palude). The Franciscan church and monastery is the most
valuable gothic-renaissance complex in Split. The church and
monastery have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts.
The oldest object is a gothic drawer for incense from the
15th century and a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the 16th
century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from
the monastery library such as the Bull by Pope Callistus III
in 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the Virgin‘s
feast days and on the first Sundays of the month, visited the
Poljud sanctuary and gave donations for its construction.
Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 08:30, 10:00 and
20:00. Q Open by prior arrangement.
The Saint Clara Monastery and Church (Samostan
i Crkva sv. Klare) K-1, Klarina 1a. A well maintained
church which is home to a painted 13th century Romanesque
crucifix, several icons as well as renaissance and baroque
paintings by Venetian artists.
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Landmarks
Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno
kazalište) I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 49
99/(+385-21) 30 69 08, hnk-split@hnk-split.hr, www.
hnk-split.hr. The story of Croatia‘s National Theatre in Split
is long and complicated but begins on December 26, 1859,
right near the beginning of a period of autonomy in the city.
Antonio Bajamonti was, during a brief respite from Venetian
and Austro-Hungarian control, the city‘s leader and a principal
investor in the theatre that ultimately bore his name. Sadly,
that theatre was almost completely destroyed in a fire in 1881
and plans to re-build on the original site were never realised.
The theatre was relocated to its present location on (street)
and has resided there since.
Grgur Ninski J-2. In 926, the representatives of Croatian
churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to
conduct a reform of the then current church system. The
Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with
the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed
in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and
official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a
firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions.
In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of
Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory
of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church
intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is
recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers
of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive
Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan
Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can
rub his shiny big toe for good luck).
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

Poljud Stadium (Stadion Poljud). Known to locals
as „Poljudska ljepotica“ or the „Poljud beauty“, Poljud is the
second largest stadium in Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium
in Zagreb) and has a capacity of 35,000 people. Poljud was
slated for a massive re-construction in anticipation of a joint
Croatia / Hungary bid to host the UEFA cup in 2012. However,
as Poland and the Ukraine were chosen to host the games,
the re-construction plan has been put on hold. The stadium
was originally constructed by the Yugoslavian government as
part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean Games and
was officially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed
fan of the team who play their home games in Poljud, HNK
Hajduk Split.By far the most important and revered sports
team in Dalmatia, a dedicated fanbase around the world has
followed Hajduk throughout the team‘s history. In the former
Yugoslavia, Hajduk was one of the few teams to attract
fans from different regions and ethnicities, particularly with
Albanians in Kosovo. And there are numerous anecdotes
about Hajduk never playing a game without at least some of
their loyal fans in the stands, the Torcida. Named for Brazilian
football supporters that impressed Hajduk fans during the
1950 World Cup (in Portugese, torcer is ‚to cheer‘), the
Torcida are one of the most dedicated football supporters
groups in Europe. The Torcida generally call Hajduk players
as „bili“, which in local dialect is the plural form of bijeli, or
white, in reference to the white shirts that, along with blue
shorts, comprise the Hajduk uniform.Along with the team‘s
rich history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality football
players, with several going on to illustrious careers in European
club football. Suffice it to say that when the Croatian national
team placed third in the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven
starters were former Hajduk players.
split.inyourpocket.com
what to see
Prokurative (Trg Republike) I-2, Trg Republike (Republic
Square) is a large, open square surrounded on three sides
by a collection of elaborate neo-Renaissance buildings
known as the Prokurative. On the southern side, the square
opens up to a lovely view of the harbour. Construction of the
Prokurative started during the latter half of the 19th century
under the supervision of General Marmont, with the buildings
inspired largely by the architecture of the same period in
Venice. While relatively unoccupied in the cooler months,
the square comes alive in the summer with concerts and
cultural events, the most popular being the Entertainment
Musical Festival of Split.
The Blue Tree D-2. If you happen to walk along Vukovarska
Street, also dubbed as ‘tree avenue‘, then you will come
across ‘The Blue Tree‘, a new 7.5 meter art installation made
of steel. It is located close to the atelier of Vasko Lipovac,
the local born sculptor who produced this art work and it
commemorates his crafty and grandiose opus.
Poljud stadium, Adriatic Photo Service
Summer 2012
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38 what to see
Branko Ostojić
Streets and Squares
Marmontova Street (Marmontova ulica) I-2. From
1806 to 1813, Napoleon ruled the city of Split, along with
many of its Dalmatian neighbour-cities. Apparently, the French
demanded to occupy a relatively sophisticated city, as many
urban improvements were made under the supervision of the
French General Auguste Marmont. Walls were torn down, new
roads were built and electricity powered the city for the first
time. To return the favour, Split has immortalized Marmont
in the name of this popular pedestrian street, full of posh
shops and cafés.
Narodni (People‘s) Square (Narodni trg - Pjaca)
I-2. A trip west from the Peristyle along Krešimirova takes you
through the Iron Gate and into Narodni trg, commonly referred
to as Pjaca, a Croatian form of the Italian word piazza. In
the fourteenth century, this square replaced the Peristyle as
the city‘s central meeting area and it remains so to this day.
The square is overlooked by a Romanesque clock with the
remains of a medieval sundial in front of a larger, older belfry
and contains numerous shops and cafés. The north side of
the square is taken up by the Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica),
a fifteenth-century construction that hosts art or history
exhibitions in the summer months.
Stepping out, Split style
Voćni trg (Fruit Square) (Trg braće Radića) I-2.
Now home to various shops and businesses, Trg braće Radić
was once home to a bustling fruit market and so has been
given the unofficial name of Voćni trg. This translates to, you
might have guessed, fruit square. These days there‘s no fruit
in sight, but there are several shops and points of interest
that call this square home, including the Venetian castello and
tower, both of which were constructed in 1435. The northern
side of the square is dominated by the Milesi Palace, one of
the best examples of Baroque architecture in Dalmatia. The
statue that stands in front of the palace is relatively small but
represents a large figure from Croatian history, that of Marko
Marulić, a 15th-century poet who was one of the first literary
figures to use Croatian language. The statue was created
by another eminent Croatian historial figure, Ivan Meštrović.
Zoo
Branko Ostojić
Zoo (Zoološki vrt) C-2, Kolombatićevo šetalište 2,
Marjan, tel. (+385-21) 39 45 25. Despite the presence
of the occasional exotic beast here and there, Split‘s
zoo is a rather modest affair that displays local farm
animals alongside the odd Croatian wolf, boar or vulture.
And unless you have kids in tow who need entertaining,
there‘s not much point in coming to be honest. The cages
do contain some odd combinations, with peacocks,
rabbits and sheep all sharing one enclosure, and a
bemused ostrich rooming with the Shetland ponies in
another. The zoo‘s stampeding herd of guinea pigs will
trigger nightmare visions for anyone who remembers
the “Trouble with Tribbles” episode of Star Trek. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.
www.inyourpocket.com
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

Post
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can
buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure
they‘re right value for what you are sending and where.
Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These
are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around
town.
Main post office E-1, Hercegovačka 1, tel. (+385-21)
34 24 17/(+385-21) 34 24 19. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Post office I/J-2, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. (+385-21)
40 67 05, www.posta.hr. Q June, October Open 07:00 -
20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - September 30
Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Postal rates
Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10 kn
Abroad 7,10 kn
Postcrads Croatia 1,60 kn
Abroad 3,10 kn
Express mail
DHL E/F-3, Poljička cesta 29, tel. (+385-1) 665 11
11, hrspu@dhl.com, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
In time D-1, Put Stinica bb, tel. (+385-21) 50 81 66/
(+385-) 091 626 20 30, 091 626 20 78, split@in-time.hr,
www.in-time.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N
OverseasExpress J-1, Domovinskog rata 10,
Dugopolje, tel. (+385-21) 66 01 53/(+385-21) 66 01
54, split@overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N
City express mail
City Ex F-2, Ulica grada Vukovara 183a, tel. (+385-
21) 37 66 77/(+385-) 0800 303 333, split@cityex.hr,
www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun. N
Internet places
Cyber club 100D J-1, Sinjska 2/4, tel. (+385-21) 34
81 10, info100d@gmail.com. Internet use - 20kn/hour, half
hour 12kn, printing 1kn/per page. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00,
Sun 16:00 - 22:00.
Net Com D-3, Poljana Grgura Ninskog 9 (Peristil), tel.
(+385-21) 34 76 61/(+385-) 091 311 42 22, info@n-c.
hr, www.n-c.hr. Internet use - first 15min / 7kn, 25kn/hour.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81
41, www.travel49.com. 10kn/20min, 30kn/h. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00.
Public telephone
All public phones in Croatia are card operated and you
can purchase one (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk -
they come in 15-100 units and cost 15, 30, 50 and 100kn
respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards
which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad.
split.inyourpocket.com
Mail & phones
Mobile phones
Mobile phone use in Split is typical to most everywhere in
Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have
attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however,
are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of showtunes
and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil
of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain
the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic
silent-mode designation in this central European location.
The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098)
and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all
over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks,
or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards: Purchase a
Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have
numerous selling points throughout the city if the below
addresses aren‘t convenient for you.
T-Centar I-2/J-1, Marmontova 7-9, tel. (+385-)
0800 15 50, simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile.
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:30. Closed
Sun. A
T-Centar F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 18a, tel. (+385-)
0800 15 50, simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile.hr.
QOpen 08:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. A
Tele 2 I-2, Morpurgova poljana 1, tel. (+385-21)
34 60 02, alo2@aloalo.hr, www.tele2.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A
Vip centar F-2, Vukovarska 207 (City Centre One),
tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, sluzba.za.korisnike@vipnet.
hr, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A
Vip centar I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-) 091 77
00, sluzba.za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, www.vipnet.
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. A
Making the call
You‘ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown,
and are ready to take the plunge (let‘s hope you
decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local
Calls: Here‘s the trick: dial the subscriber‘s six- or sevendigit
number, and place the receiver to your ear. National
Calls: Dial the Croatian city code ((0)21 if you‘re calling
Split for instance) followed by the subscriber‘s number.
Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code),
the appropriate country code, a city or area code if
applicable and the subscriber‘s number. Calling Croatia
from Abroad: Dial your international access code,
385 (Croatia‘s country code), the city code (dropping
the initial 0) and the subscriber‘s number. Calling a
Mobile: Mobile numbers are 10-digits and begin with
either 091,098,099, 092 and 095. Dial the subscriber‘s
number and wait for a human voice. For an international
call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess
code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the
remaining digits.
Calling Split
www.inyourpocket.com
From Zagreb: dial (021) and the number
Outside Croatia: dial (+385-21) and the number
Summer 2012
39

40 getting around
Public Transport
Day bus lines 1 through 18 and 21, 22 run from 05:00
to 23:00. There is three night buses, number 23, 39,
40 which run on Fridays and Saturdays. Maps and
schedules for each line can be found at their respective
stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 11kn or
from kiosks near each bus stop for 9kn. The company
that operates Split‘s buses is called Promet Split, so
make sure the kiosk has that name on it before trying
to buy a ticket. If you‘re trying to beat the system and
riding without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and
you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70kn. Split is
covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip
anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main
station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš,
the airport and other destinations outside of Split.
Sukoišanska‘s ticket office operates from 06:00 to 20:00
on weekdays, 06:00 to 12:00 on Saturdays and is closed
on Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska station, dial
(+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information regarding
bus services, call (+385-21) 40 79 99.
Promet Split D-2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21)
48 10 97, parking@promet-split.hr, www.prometsplit.hr.
Trains
Main train station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel.
(+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.hznet.
hr. The main train station is situated next to the bus station
and doesn‘t offer many possibilities to travel around, save for
frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to a
load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about
eight hours, which in the summer can be made a lot less
tiresome by the weekend disco train, on which passengers
can enjoy the trip with dancing and music. If you happen to be
leaving on a night train from Zagreb at 23:20 or a night train
from Split at 21:18, there‘s one more really handy service
offered at the train station. If you have a car or motorbike and
don‘t feel like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto
the train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 186,30
- 266,30kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket.
Buses
Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3,
Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/
(+385-21) 32 91 80, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr.
The main bus station isn‘t the most impressive building in
town, but it is well organized and conveniently located next
to the ferry port and train station, which are all about ten
minutes‘ walk to the old town. If you‘re planning a return trip
to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators
and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to
travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also,
if you happen to be traveling to the northern part of Croatia,
check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy,
car-sickness-inducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads,
which can affect the length of your trip. Information about
prices and departure/arrival times is available 24 hours at
the information desk. The international ticket office is open
06:00 - 21:30.
If you wish to travel to the Croatian capital Zagreb, the bus
ride via freeway is 5 hours approximately. The first ride starts
at 1:00am with buses leaving every hour thereafter. The last
bus leaves at 23:59.
For those wishing to visit the Plitvice National Park there
are four bus lines from Split. The first leaves at 08:30 and is
followed by another at 12:00, 20:15 and 22:45.
Dubrovnik is at the very south of Croatia and is approximately
5 hours from Split by bus. The first bus leaves at 1:30 and
the last at 17:15.
Makarska is almost half way to Dubrovnik and the first bus
line towards this beautiful coastal town leaves at 1:30 with
the last at 22:30. Bus lines leave almost every hour and the
trip takes about 1 hour.
The first bus to Rijeka leaves at 05:00 and the trip takes
about 7 hours, whilst the last bus leaves from Split to Rijeka
at 21:30. There are eight bus lines towards Rijeka every day.
Car rental
ABC I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 23 64/
(+385-) 099 342 30 01, 091 153 41 46, info@rentacarabc.com,
www.rentacar-abc.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Avis & Budget Cesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96,
tel. (+385-21) 20 34 79/ (+385-) 091 314 30
11, split.apt@avis.com.hr, www.avis.hr.QOpen
07:00 - 21:00. A
Dollar&Thrifty H-3, Trumbićeva obala 17, tel. (+385-
21) 39 90 00/(+385-21) 39 88 00, subrosa@subrosa.
hr, www.subrosa.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00
- 12:00. A
Emaco E-2/3/F-2, Matice Hrvatske 14 (Bussines
center Koteks), tel. (+385-21) 53 95 06/(+385-1) 098
25 51 88, emaco@emaco.hr, www.emaco.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. A
Europcar Cesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić
(Zračna luka Split - Kaštela), tel. (+385-) 098 23 10 81,
rentacar-st@uniline.hr, www.europcar.com.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. A
Hertz C-3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+385-21) 36 04 55/
(+385-) 091 36 04 551, split.dt@hertz.hr, www.hetz.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Uni Rent C-3, Šperun 2, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 97, split@
uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Taxi
The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 17 77. The starting
fee for a taxi trip is 18kn, with a 8kn fee added per
kilometre and 2.5kn added per each piece of luggage and
50kn per hour for waiting. There is no additional charge
for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major
hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at
the main bus station and near the Riva. Prices for the
season were not finalized at the time of going to print.
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

42 getting around
Parking
First and foremost, pay heed to the solemn pleas of our editor
and please, please, please respect the parking laws of Split
(and any other city you might be visiting). Now that we‘ve
sufficiently guilt-tripped you into behaving yourself, we can
continue. There are four parking zones and prices go from
3 - 5kn/hour depending on the zone and time when parking
is charged. In the Zone 1 parking is payable 06:30 - 21:30,
and in Zones 2, 3 and 4 07:00 - 19:00. You can also pay using
your mobile for the same price range from 3 - 5kn/h. However,
be aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket
when you‘re supposed to have one you might catch a fine of
75kn (Zone 1), or 48kn for all other zones.
Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking
in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per
hour from 6 to 10 kunas depending on your proximity to the
centre. So, if you‘re parking near the Riva, you can bet on
a hour maximum 10kn charge for the first hour and every
second is 15kn. Most of the lots operate around the clock.
Airport
Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)
Cesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-
21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, uprava@splitairport.hr,
www.split-airport.hr. The airport is relatively
small but serves a fair number of domestic and European
cities. If you‘re not able to fly to your destination from Split,
there are daily flights to Zagreb, which is a bit more connected
to the outside world. The airport can be reached by hopping
on bus number 37 (bound for Trogir) from Sukoišanska. The
bus runs every 20 minutes on weekdays and every 30 minutes
on weekends. If you happen to have the distinction of being a
Croatia Airlines passenger, you can take the airport bus that
waits at the beginning of the Riva, an hour and a half before
Croatia Airlines flights. If you didn‘t manage to blow all your
kunas on coffees on the Riva, you can exhange them in the
offices run by Splitska banka or at the post office, both of
which are located in the main hall of the airport.
And if you did manage to blow all your kunas on shopping,
enquire at the information desk where you can confirm your
tax-free form, as the office is not visually marked.
Airport bus
If you‘re flying with Croatia Airlines you can check the bus
timetable at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or on (+385) 098 28
38 57. At the moment the bus stop is on the corner of the
Riva (the seafront) and the road which leads to the port,
coach and railway stations. However, the bus stop is due to
be relocated to a spot right by the coach station.
So it‘s wise to check with the airport in advance. The trip
costs 30kn for a single ticket, and kids under 6 go for free.
Otherwise, take bus number 37 for Trogir from Sukoišanska
bus station; tickets cost 17kn one way, leaving every 20
minutes.
Brač Airport
Brač Airport Veško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-21)
55 97 01/(+385-21) 55 97 11, info@airport-brac.hr,
www.airport-brac.hr. Situated 14km away from Bol and
30km from Supetar, the biggest town on the island of Brač,
this small airport started operations in 1993 and is open year
round, with charter flights organized only during the summer.
The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100
passengers or fewer. Q June 1 - 30, September - October
Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:30.
July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00.
www.inyourpocket.com
SMS Parking
There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes
located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red
- 8211), zone 2 (blue - 8212), zone 3 (green - 8213)
and zone 4 (yellow - 8214). You get a ticket at the box
under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to
pay by sending an SMS with your registration number
(no gaps) to the number shown on the box (remember
to include the international dialing code if you‘re using
a foreign mobile). A few minutes before your hour of
paid parking runs out, you‘ll get a message to remind
you to refresh your lease of the space or move your
car.
Bike & Scooter Rental
Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81
41, info@travel49.com, www.travel49.com. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00. A
San Diego tours I/J-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. (+385-
21) 41 00 34/(+385-) 091 333 35 48, booking@
car-hire-rental.info, www.rentacar.com.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. A
Charter
BavAdria Yachting Franje Tuđmana 213, Kaštel
Gomilica, tel. (+385-21) 20 40 20/(+385-) 098 32
16 57, bavadria@bavadria.com, www.bavadria.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Euromarine C-3, Uvala Baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 32 31
01/(+385-) 098 29 98 77, split@euromarine.hr, www.
euromarine.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00.
Sun by request.
Gringo nautica E-3, Cvjetna 1, Marina Zenta, tel.
(+385-21) 38 98 00/(+385-) 098 940 37 77, gringo.
nautica@gmail.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
Nautika centar Nava C-3, Uvala Baluni 1, tel. (+385-
21) 40 77 00/(+385-21) 40 77 02, charter@navaboats.
com, www.navaboats.com. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Sun
by request.
Orvas Yachting C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21)
32 20 15/(+385-21) 098 45 22 25, orvas-yachting@
orvas.hr, www.orvas-yachting.com. Q June - September
30 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. October Open
08:00 - 16:00, Sat by request. Closed Sun.
Ultra C-3, Uvala Baluni 6a, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 78/
(+385-) 098 29 46 35, booking@ultra-sailing.hr, www.
ultra-sailing.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
Ferries
Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as
the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like
Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. We‘ve expounded much on the
convenient location of the ferry port and its proximity to the
bus and train stations, but if you still don‘t know where it is,
making your way there has been simplified by those handy
signs all around town pointing the way. On the street leading
up to the main port building, there are Jadrolinija kiosks
that sell tickets for the ferries that operate to domestic
destinations and Splittours kiosk that sells ticket for Split
Ancona line. Inside the main port building, the Jadrolinija and
Snav offices sell tickets for international travel. The opening
hours of each office change according to season, but during
peak season, the kiosks for local travel close at around 20:00
and the main office closes at midnight.
For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something
like this: 33 - 68kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars.
Motorcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 -
62kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we
also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute
little life vest.
The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour
and the trip to Vis takes about three and a half hours. On
all ferries, you‘ll find bars where you can buy some snacks
and a drink or two. One final, important note is that it‘s not
possible to reserve tickets for local lines ahead of time. You
can buy them at any time and they are valid for any line
operating that day; but to be sure your car will be placed
on your desired ferry, you should be waiting with your car
about 90 minutes before the ferry departs. After you buy
your ticket, the kindly, multi-lingual personnel will explain
to you from which dock the ferry leaves.
Jadrolinija D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83
33, ag.split@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. This is the
main company in Croatia that caters for public transportation
towards the islands. QOpen 04:30 - 24:00.
Kapetan Luka, Krilo Poljička cesta 28, Krilo Jesenice,
tel. (+385-21) 87 28 77/(+385-) 091 205 98 86, luka.
tomic@st.t-com.hr, www.krilo.hr. Tickets are available in
Jadrolinija agency. Q Open by prior arrangement.
MSC Krstarenja D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32
22 52, split@msckrstarenja.com, www.msckrstarenja.
com. SNAV agent. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Split Tours D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry terminal), tel.
(+385-21) 35 25 33, booking@splitours.hr, www.
splittours.hr. Blue Line International (Split - Ancona line)
agent. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva). Q June - July 22,
August 27 - October Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 07:30 - 12:00,
Sun 15:00 - 20:30. July 23 - August 26 Open 07:30 - 20:30.
Harbormaster‘s office
Lučka kapetanija (Harbormaster‘s office) I-3,
Obala Lazareta 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 55 00/(+385-21)
36 24 36.
Marinas
ACI Marina C-3, Uvala Baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 85
99/(+385-21) 54 94 87, 54 94 88, m.split@aci-club.hr,
www.aci-club.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00.
July - August 31 Open 07:30 - 22:00.
Petrol station for boats
INA-Obala H-3, Obala kneza Branimira 7, tel. (+385-)
091 497 12 45, www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. A
Petrol stations (0-24)
INA-Pojišan D/K-3, Pojišanska bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497
12 46, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
INA-Visoka G/2-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. (+385-)
091 497 12 50, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
Lukoil - Sirobuja G/2-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. (+385-
21) 31 67 60, www.lukoil.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
OMV-Istrabenz Magistrala bb, Kaštel Sućurac, tel.
(+385-21) 26 08 19, www.omv.hr. Q May - October
Open 00:00 - 24:00 A
Become a fan of Split
In Your Pocket on
split.inyourpocket.com
getting around
Road help
HAK (Croatian Auto Club) D-2, tel. (+385-21)
1987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and
towing service is available 24 hours a day.
For road information 24 hours a day dial 062 77 77 77;
during summer you can hear it on the radio in English,
Italian and German.
Port Authority
Lučka uprava (Split Port Authority) D-3, Gat Sv.Duje
1, tel. (+385-21) 33 82 62, lucka-uprava-split@st.t-com.
hr, www.portsplit.com. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Travel agencies
Adriatic Travel D-3, Jadranska 6, tel. (+385-21) 49
01 30/ (+385-21) 49 01 29, info@adriatic-travel.
hr, www.adriatic-travel.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00,
17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
F-tours putovanja D/2, Trg Hrvatske bratske zajednice
3, tel. (+385-21) 34 48 42, desk@f-tours.hr, www.ftours.hr.
QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00.
Closed Sun. A
Galileo J-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14, tel. (+385-21) 54 22
33, info@galileo.hr, www.galileo.hr. QOpen 08:00 -
18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Split Tours D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 35
25 33, booking@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Q
Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 07:30 - 12:00, Sun 07:30 - 12:00,
15:00 - 20:30. A
www.inyourpocket.com
Towed away
As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car
previously occupied and that equally empty feeling you
have down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn‘t
heed our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your
ride has been towed away by what we refer to in English
as the, ahem, tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally:
spider) to the car impound at Pujanke (F-2), so you‘ll need
to shell out 340kn to retrieve it. Cash or credit cards are
accepted and the office is open around the clock. Tel.
(+385-21) 37 68 48
Summer 2012
43

44 getting around
Sport
Adventure sports
Adventure Dalmatia D-3, Matije Gupca 26, tel.
(+385-) 091 501 29 13, info@adventuredalmatia.com,
www.splitadventure.com. Rafting on the River Cetina,
sea kayaking, canyoning.
Dalmatia Rafting D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 8a,
tel. (+385-21) 32 16 98/(+385-) 098 169 77 49,
cetina@dalmatiarafting.com, www.dalmatiarafting.
com. Rafting, canoeing, kayaking, free climbing and paintball.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Falco Tours D/E-3, Žrnovnička 11, tel. (+385-21) 54
86 46/(+385-) 091 786 72 20, info@falco-tours.com,
www.falco-tours.com. Call for arrangements.
Radmanove Mlinice Poljički trg 2, Omiš, tel. (+385-
21) 86 22 38/(+385-) 098 81 36 80, info@radmanovemlinice.hr,
www.radmanove-mlinice.hr. Rafting and
canoeing. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
SPK Marulianus D-2, Tončićeva 1/2, tel. (+385-)
091 529 59 90, info@marulianus.hr, www.marulianus.
hr. Sport climbing club. Q Working hours by arrangement.
Paragliding
Alternatura Hrvatskih mučenika 2, Komiža, Vis, tel.
(+385-21) 71 72 39/(+385-) 091 250 38 09, 091 520
50 80, alternatura@alternatura.hr, www.alternatura.
hr. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. A
Sailing
Ultra C-3, Uvala baluni 6a, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 78/
(+385-21) 39 89 80, booking@ultra-sailing.hr, www.
ultra-sailing.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun.
Tennis
TK Dalmacijacement Marka Marulića 24, Solin, tel.
(+385-21) 21 24 42. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. day time
50kn/h, night time 60kn/h.
TK Split E-3, Put Firula 18, tel. (+385-21) 38 95 76,
www.tk-split.hr. Q Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:30,
Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. daytime 50kn/h,
night 75kn/h.
Windsurfing
7 Bofora D-2, Kavanjinova 14, tel. (+385-21) 48
04 28/(+385-) 091 516 62 01, info@7bofora.com,
www.7bofora.com. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun. A
Big Blue Podan glavice 2, Bol, Brač, tel. (+385-21) 63
56 14, tomaz@big-blue-sport.hr, www.big-blue-sport.
hr. Windsurfing, diving, sea-kayaking, mountain biking and
beachvolley. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

NINÈEVIÆI 16 22 KLIS
STARINE MEGDAN
2 1
23
GRAD SOLIN
JAPIRKO
10 5 13
DRAÈEVAC
K. SUÆURAC
Northern Harbour
City Bus Lines
s
Zone 2
2
Zone 1
Zbora narodne garde
Luka Lora
Matoševa
Solinska
BRDA
1,5,10,13,16,22
2
4,14
LORA
3 39
NESLANOVAC
4,14
Hercegovaèka
4,9,11,14
4,14
Put Supavla
7
KILA
40 6
RAVNE NJIVE
2,4,14
9,11
9,11
7
LEGEND:
114. Brigada
9,11
Domovinskog rata
3,7
1,10,13,16,22
9,11
18
BRNIK
6,18
MEJAŠI
5
Pujanke
Vukovarska
Zagorski put
11
KOCUNAR
9
Velebitska
KMAN
Hrvatske mornarice
7,9
7,9,14
3
TERMINUS
ONE WAY
TWO WAY
BUS STOP
17
Velebitska
7
6,11,18
PUJANKE
7
,
DRAGOVODE
LOVRINAC
3
SUÆIDAR
14
17
8,17
6
PLOKITE
5
6,15
17
VISOKA
7,11,18
6,15
14
6,15
17
11,18
15
39
7
3,5
14
17
18
3,5,8,15
11,15
POLJUD
SKALICE SUKOIŠAN
Trogir, Omiš,
TABLE Drniš, Žrnovica, BOL
Dugopolje,
LOVRET Dračevac (13) 1,2,3,4,9,10,16,22
SPINUT
Matoševa
8 17
1,2,3,4,6,8,9
DOBRI 10,15,16,17,22 1,2,3,4,8,9,10,16,17,22
1,4,5,6,11,
14,16,18,22 MANUŠ
23
VELI VAROŠ
CENTAR
GRIPE
Sv. Frane
2,3,5,8,9,10,
8,12,21
11,14,15,17,18
Diocletian's LUÈAC
Palace
1,2,4,9,10,13,16,22
Vukovarska
Vukovarska
Dubrovaèka
Mažuraniæevo šetalište
Domov. rata
Gunduliæ.
Zrinsko - Frankopanska
Kaštelanska
Studentski dom
Poljièka c.
Velebitska
Vukovarska
HNK
LOKVE
PAZDIGRAD
MERTOJAK
ŽNJAN
SMRDEÈAC
MARJAN
7,8,15
Moliš. Hrvata
Poljièka c.
M. Hrvat. M. Hrvat. B. Bušiæa
ŠKRAPE
18
17
17
DUILOVO
15
14
Market
Zagrebaèka
7,8
Braèka
KRIŽINE 7,8,15
BLATINE
Zvonimirova
3,5,8,11,17
Poljièka cesta
I. pl. Zajca
Dubrov.
Ul. Slobode
Marjanski tunel
Mihanoviæeva
15
17
3,5,8,11,14,17
18
Poišanska
City Harbour
Put Meja Kneza Branimira
12,21
Supilova
MEJE
7,8,12,21
Pape Ivana Pavla II.
TRSTENIK
Kolodvor
7,8,21
BENE
1 2
FIRULE
3,5,8,11,14,17
BAÈVICE
40
12,21
8,12,21
12 12
7,8,21
2,9,10,15
SV. FRANE - BENE - (MEJE) - SV. FRANE
SUKOIŠAN KOL. - DRAČEVAC, DRAČEVAC - SUKOIŠAN KOL.
RAVNE NJIVE - DUBROVAČKA - HNK - RAVNE NJIVE
DUILOVO - TRAJ. LUKA - DUILOVO
NINČEVIĆI - HNK - NINČEVIĆI
SPINUT - TRSTENIK, SPINUT - TRSTENIK
BRNIK - MEJAŠI - MAT. HRVATSKE - HNK - MEJAŠI - BRNIK
SV. FRANE - MEJE - SV. FRANE
KLIS MEGDAN - GOR. RUPOTINA - HNK - KLIS MEGDAN
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
21
22
STARINE - HNK - STARINE
K. SUĆURAC - TRAJ. LUKA - K. SUĆURAC
LOVRINAC - LORA, LORA - LOVRINAC
RAVNE NJIVE - HNK - RAVNE NJIVE
DRAČEVAC - POLJIČKA - HNK - DRAČEVAC
KILA - VUKOVARSKA - HNK - KILA
ŽNJAN - ZVONČAC - ŽNJAN
ŽNJAN - ZVONČAC - SV. FRANE - ŽNJAN
RAVNE NJIVE - TRAJ. LUKA - RAVNE NJIVE
JAPIRKO - BILICE - TRAJ. LUKA - BILICE - JAPIRKO
RAVNE NJIVE - PUJANKE - HNK - RAVNE NJIVE
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Šet. I. Meštroviæa
Ferry Port
City of Split Environs
S J E V E R N A L U K A
s
ŽRNOVNICA SITNO
27 28
39
Grad Solin
CITY LIMITS
KAMEN TTTS
26 24
SUKOIŠAN
24,25
26,27
L U K A L O R A
DUBRAVA
Grad Split
23 NIGHT SERVICE (HNK - DOM. RATA - P. KREŠIMIRA IV. - SV. KAJO - ZNG - DOM. RATA - HNK)
39 NIGHT SERVICE (LORA - OPĆINA - TRŽNICA - POLJIČKA - TTTS - POLJIČKA - TRŽNICA - LORA)
40 NIGHT SERVICE (TRAJEKTNA LUKA - VUKOVARSKA - KILA - VUKOVARSKA - TRAJEKTNA LUKA)
Podstrana Omiš
Makarska
Dubrovnik
Jadranska magistrala
STOBREÈ 25
Poljièka cesta
www.promet-split.hr | promet@promet-split.hr | Automated Information Service: 060 / 393 393 (Fixed Lines 1.71kn/min inc
VAT, Mobile Network 2.92kn/min inc VAT), HT d.d. Savska cesta 32, 10000 Zagreb OIB: 81793146560, tel.: 0800 1234

46 diving in the adriatiC
Take the plunge with numerous centres offering diving
instruction, night diving, cave diving, reef diving, beautiful
wall diving, wreck diving, and shallow diving
People have always been curious to discover the secrets
concealed by the sea. We know that the ancient Greeks
mastered the techniques diving for sponges and sea snails.
But the seabed is still very much uncharted territory, and
many people believe that the seas and the oceans conceal
the greatest mysteries of the planet.
On the Adriatic, diving has a history as long as mankind’s
dependence on the sea for its livelihood. We know,
for example, that towards the end of the 19th century
people from the island of Krapanj were using supple
jackets when diving for sponges. However, it was two
brothers from Slovenia named Ivan and Dušan Kuščer
who popularised diving as a recreational pastime. They
published photographs and writings documenting their
underwater adventures in the 1930s, when they explored
the northern Croatian coast using diving equipment they
had made themselves.
So why not allow the rich corals, reefs, crustaceans, fish,
shellfish, morays, flora and fauna become your temporary
acquaintances before you return to surface
Why is it that people are so fascinated by diving? And what’s
all the fuss about the Adriatic Sea? At first glance, the Adriatic
may not look particularly colourful or rich in sea life compared
with most tropical waters, for example. But as legions of diving
enthusiasts will confirm, the waters of the Adriatic definitely
have their own wonders and offer plenty to explore.
This is one of the cleanest seas in Europe with a combination
of characteristics that make it a wonderful haven for divers.
The Adriatic is shallow, warm and salty. The seabed is either
rocky, pebbly or sandy, and the water is so transparent that in
some places you can see for 60 metres. There are no strong
tides to contend with. However, there are strong currents in
places, mainly in channels where the water surges between
islands, as well as on the fringes of the islands.
Thanks to the forces of nature and of history there is a great
deal to be discovered under the calm blue surface of the
Adriatic. It is rich in flora and fauna, some of which is unique
to these waters. The seabed is made up of impressive
underwater rock faces and reefs and is dotted with
shipwrecks, archaeological finds and even the odd aeroplane
which has found its way down there. And this fascinating world
extends right along the length of the Croatian coast.
The northern part of the Adriatic is the most visited by
divers thanks to its shallow waters and lush vegetation. The
coastline around the Istrian peninsula is the last resting place
of a number of ancient vessels. The central and southern
parts of the Adriatic have deeper and more transparent
waters and spectacular underwater escarpments. Some of
the most attractive locations here are around the islands of
Vis and Hvar, the Kornati archipelago and in the Dubrovnik
area.
Experience the Adriatic Sea beyond your wildest
imagination by scuba-diving
Apart from these locations, some of the most interesting –
and dangerous – diving adventures are to be had in secret
underwater caves. Among the most beautiful of these are:
the Green Cave (Zelena špilja) on the island of Vis; the
Blue Cave (Modra špilja) on the island of Biševo; the Bear
Cave (Medvjeđa špilja) on Mali Lošinj, and Zaklopatica on
the island of Korčula.
Apart from exercising caution when diving in caves or other
potentially hazardous locations, divers should be aware
that diving is not allowed at the following places: harbours
and moorings, areas with heavy boat traffic, military zones,
nature reserves, nature parks, the Brijuni and Krka National
Parks and the islands of Palagruža and Jabuka.
Diving is allowed at the Kornati and Mljet National Parks
with a special permit. And you need prior permission from
the Ministry of Culture if you want to dive from the following
locations:
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

The islands of Vis, Biševo, Svetac, Brusnik, Sušak, Lastovo
and Palagruža
Around (within 300m of) the following shipwrecks: the Szent
Istvan, the Corida-nus, the BarenGautsch, the S-57
The archaeological sites at Žirje and Cavtat
So long as you have the right permit, you can dive as an
individual or as part of a group.
If you’d like to take part in an organized dive in Croatia, contact
a registered diving instructor, school or association (see
the list of diving centres at the end of this article). If you’re
going out diving on your own, be sure to properly mark the
spot where you dive with a surface marker buoy. Individual
divers must get a permit, which costs 2400kn, from the local
harbourmaster’s office. Sports scuba divers must not dive to
depths greater than 40m.
Whether you’re a beginner or an advanced diver, the
options are endless
split.inyourpocket.com
diving in the adriatiC
Adriatic is rich in flora and fauna, some of witch is unique to these waters
The Adriatic is not known for deadly sea creatures but
there are certain species which can give you an unpleasant
sting, so it is worth exercising caution. Do not try to feed
or otherwise disturb sea creatures since otherwise docile
characters may become aggressive if they perceive you
as a threat. It goes without saying that each and every
diver is responsible for protecting the fragile underwater
environment. Your aim should be to leave no trace of your
dive when you have finished.
Whether you’re interested in diving to shipwrecks, caves
or underwater rock faces, Croatia is a great destination
for diving. And thanks to modern diving equipment and
techniques, children as young as 10 years old can dive quite
safely, as can disabled divers. Just be sure before every dive
to check the rules for safe diving in that location, to avoid
putting your life – or anyone else’s – in danger. And of course,
before you begin, you’ll have taken your certificate so you
know exactly what you’re doing!
We wish you calm seas and a wealth of exciting dives!
Dive centres
Akvatorij D-1 Put Supavla 21/III, (+385-21) 45 95
45, info@akvatorij.hr, www.akvatorij.hr. QOpen
09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Issa Ribarska 91, Komiža (Vis), tel.(+385-21) 71
36 51, info@scubadiving.hr, www.scubadiving.hr.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
More sub Diving School K.P.Krešimira IV.43,
Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 17 27, (+385-) 098
173 99 26, info@more-sub-makarska.hr, www.moresub-makarska.hr.
QOpen Mon - Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Viking Put podstine 7, Hvar, tel.(+385-21) 74 25
29, info@viking-diving.com, www.viking-diving.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2012
47

48 shopping
Jaman Gallery
Shopping centres & Malls
City Center One F-2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-
21) 51 01 30, info-st@citycenterone.com, www.
citycenterone.hr. Q June - August 26 Open 09:00 - 22:00.
August 27 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00.
Antiques
Antique‘s & Art‘s D-3, Plinarska 21, tel. (+385-)
098 917 63 68. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 19:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. N
Zlatna vrata J-2, Papalićeva ulica 4, tel. (+385-21) 36
01 22/(+385-) 098 51 62 78. Q Open 09:00 - 12:30,
17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. N
Art Galleries
Atelier Mikulić E-3, Šimićeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 37
17 22/ (+385-) 091 515 25 75, nenomikulic@
gmail.com, www.gallerymikulic.com. QOpen
by prior arrangement.
Jaman I-2, Šubićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 91/
(+385-) 098 32 27 19, danijel.jaman@st.t-com.hr, www.
jaman-art.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. A
Morić J-1, Sinjska 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 51 31/(+385-)
091 515 73 57, galerija-moric@st.t-com.hr. Q Open
08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sun. A
Oya Noya I-2, Mihovilova širina 2, tel. (+385-) 095
593 20 92. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00 A
Paparella J-2, Dominisova 7, tel. (+385-21) 34
40 78. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:30, Sat
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Studio Naranča J-2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel. (+385-21)
34 41 18, pavo.studionaranca@gmail.com.QOpen
09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 09:00 -
22:00. Closed Sun. A
English books & newspapers
Algoritam I-2, Bajamontijeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 80
30, split@algoritam.hr, www.algoritam.hr. QOpen
08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Profil Mozaik I-2, Šubićeva 7, tel. (+385-21) 36 00
50, www.profil-international.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30.
Closed Sun. A
VBZ I-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 80, www.
vbz.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. A
Looking for more?
split.inyourpocket.com
Atelier Perajica
J-2 Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, contact@
atelierperajica.com, www.atelierperajica.com.
This fantastic little atelier is a wonderful place to get
lost in your thoughts or to pick up something unique
as a gift. Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core,
three generations of photographers have kept their
family studio here, amassing an unparalleled photodocumentary
of Split nostalgic and modern. The current
owner, art theorist and critic Dr Ana Perajica, has some
unusual creations including photos printed on canvas
and fringed with handmade lace: voilà! Drinks mats! A
functional keepsake that’s cool. There’s also a wonderful
collection of photos of all sizes of Croatian artisan lace,
including the UNESCO-listed agave lace made by nuns
on Hvar island, and another featuring treasures from the
deep such as sponges, seahorses and coral. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00, Sun Closed.
Chic & Cheerful
Upi - 2M Books Kružićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 34
40 24. This is not just your ordinary bookshop; it is
also part of the Institute for Art History with a primary
focus on architecture, design and art; with an interesting
anthology of designer items, souvenirs, city guides and
maps. To top it off, there are 7000 book titles, magazines
and software on offer. Well worth a look for out literature
devotees! QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. A
Get get get J-2, Vuškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 34
10 15, info@getgetget.com.hr. One store that has
‘made in Croatia’ written all over it! It is a small designer
shop in the heart of town run by a group of artists aiming
to create, exhibit and sell their products. The works of
academic painters, photographers, architects and others
are presented; good products that are unique and not
made for the masses. QOpen 10:00 - 13:30, 18:00 -
22:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:30.
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

shopping
city centar

50 shopping
Delicatessen
Deliiicije I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda
7, tel. (+385-21) 32 31 49, www.deliiicije.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. July - September
Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 19:00 - 23:00.
Dolcezza I-2, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 38 38 52.
Also at I-2, Bosanska 16, tel. 021 36 00 21, QOpen
08:00 - 23:00.
Enoteka Terra D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel.
(+385-21) 31 48 00, edicoposao@yahoo.com, www.
vinoteka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30.
Closed Sun. A
Franja coffee I-2, Trg Braće Radić 5, tel. (+385-21)
34 50 64/ (+385-) 091 582 98 11, www.franja.
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00 A
Judita - gourmet & wine shop J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel.
(+385-21) 35 51 47, judita.split@yahoo.com. QOpen
08:30 - 22:00. A
Kraš I-2, Narodni trg 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 61 38, www.
kras.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun. A
Nadalina J-2, Dioklecijanova 6. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Croatian Design
2A I-2, Trg braće Radić 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 50 69,
crnilabud@crnilabud.com, www.crnilabud.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A
Concept I-2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385-21) 31 21 90.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N
Luk J-2, Andrićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 47.
QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. A
Think Pink I-2, Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71
26, senka.jurisic@gmail.com, www.thinkpink.com.
hr. Also at (I-2) Bosanska 3. Open 09:00 - 22:00. QOpen
08:30 - 22:00. JA
Natura I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 24.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Oleoteka Uje J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27
19, info@uje.hr, www.uje.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
09:00 - 17:00. July 15 - August 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
Split Tea House I-2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21)
33 23 58, info@kucacaja-split.hr, www.kucacaja-split.
hr.QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun.
July - September Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30.
Closed Sun. A
Vinoteka Bouquet C-3, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel.
(+385-21) 34 80 31, www.vinoteka.hr. Q Open 08:30
- 12:30, 17:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Vinoteka Viola D-3/K-3, Bijankinijeva 8, tel. (+385-
21) 32 30 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Souvenirs
Cro fan shop - Hajduk I-2, Trogirska 10, tel. (+385-21)
34 30 96, www.cro-fan-shop.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. A
Closed Sun. A
Spalato J-2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel. (+385-21) 49 09
30/(+385-) 091 456 95 45, lidija.hodzic2@gmail.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A
The oldest bookstore
Morpurgo I-2, Narodni trg 16, tel. (+385-21) 34 68
43. Enter the oldest book store in the world and take
in its history. At the age of 20, Vid Morpurgo, a Jewish
immigrant opened this store 150 years ago on Split‘s
National Square; in its jubilee, the city commemorates this
milestone and this man‘s willingness to promote Croatian
literature, and find a meeting place for the cultured.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
The Cellars of Diocletian’s Palace
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

Banks & Exchanges
Hypo Alpe Adria Bank E/F-3, Poljička cesta 39, tel.
(+385-21) 43 98 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Privredna banka D-2, Ulica slobode 7, tel. (+385-21)
42 10 07/(+385-) 0800 36 53 65, www.pbz.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Splitska banka - Societe Generale Group F-3,
Ruđera Boškovića 16, tel. (+385-21) 30 41 85/(+385-)
0800 21 00 21, www.splitskabanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Zagrebačka banka D-2, Gundulićeva 26/A, tel.
(+385-21) 35 23 44/(+385-21) 35 22 22, www.zaba.
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Business connections
Croatian Chamber of Economy - Split Chamber
(Županijska komora Split) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 4,
tel. (+385-21) 32 11 00, hgkst@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr.
QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Croatian Chamber of trades and crafts - Split
Dalmatia County (Obrtnička komora Splitskodalmatinske
županije) F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 28-30,
tel. (+385-21) 47 01 14, ok.split@hok.hr, www.hok.hr.
QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Foreign representations
Chile (Consulate) E-1, Boktuljin put bb, tel. (+385-21)
35 24 01, fax (+385-21) 36 71 18, jbuljubasic@sem.hr.
QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Denmark (Consulate) E-3, Matice Hrvatske 15, tel.
(+385-21) 55 86 00/(+385-) 098 984 44 28, danmarkhc@igh.hr,
www.ambzagreb.um.dk. Please make an
appointment before visiting. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Finland (Consulate) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel.
(+385-) 091 339 12 12, fax (+385-21) 71 14 34, milan.
senjanovic@vip.hr, www.finland.hr. Please arrange an
appointment.
Germany (Consulate) I-1, Svačićeva 4, tel. (+385-
21) 40 93 47, fax (+385-21) 48 64 01, split@hk-diplo.
de, www.zagreb.diplo.de. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Hungary (Consulate) D-2, Gundulićeva 26A, tel. (+385-
21) 48 00 19/(+385-21) 38 02 03, hungconsulate.st@
email.t-com.hr, www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/zagreb. QOpen
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Italy (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog
preporoda 10/III, tel. (+385-21) 34 81 55/(+385-21)
34 45 77, fax (+385-21) 36 12 68, consolato.spalato@
esteri.it, www.consspalato.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 -
12:00, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, 15:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
split.inyourpocket.com
Business direCtory
shopping
Slovenia (Consulate) D-2, Istarska 9, tel. (+385-21)
38 92 24, fax (+385-21) 38 92 23, generalni.konzulat.
rep.slovenije@st.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:30 - 12:30. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Sweden (Consulate) K-1/2, Držićeva 8, tel. (+385-21)
33 82 34, fax (+385-21) 31 45 30. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
The Netherlands (Consulate) D-3, Kralja Zvonimira
14/XII, tel./fax (+385-21) 31 23 99, silvanakondic@
gmail.com, www.netherlandsembassy.hr. For the rest
of the week by prior arrangement over the phone. QOpen
11:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.
UK (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog
preporoda 10/III, tel. (+385-21) 34 60 07, fax (+385-
21) 36 29 05, british-consulat-st@st.t-com.hr, www.
ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk. Q Open 07:30 - 15:30, Fri 08:00
- 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Real estate
Benelli nekretnine D-2/E-2, Dubrovačka 3a, tel.
(+385-21) 53 68 23/(+385-) 099 200 01 15, info@
benelliestates.com, www.benelliestates.com. QOpen
08:30 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Trgostan J-2/K-1, Tolstojeva 32, tel. (+385-21) 34 31
05, 36 21 40/(+385-) 091 201 71 60, 098 89 17 69,
trgostan@trgostan.hr, www.trgostan.hr. Q Open by
prior arrangement.
Hospital
Bolnica Križine F-3, Šoltanska 1, tel. (+385-21) 55
71 11.
Klinički Bolnički Centar (Firule) E-3, Spinčićeva 1,
tel. (+385-21) 55 61 11
Dry cleaners & Laundries
Relucesco Laundrette Split C-2, Plinarska 28,
tel. (+385-21) 78 28 08. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 08:30 - 19:00.
24-hour pharmacies
Lučac E-3, Pupačićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 53 31 88,
ljekarnasplit@ljekarnasplit.hr, www.ljekarnasdz.hr.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
Prima Pharme G-2, Kralja Stjepana Držislava 22
(Super Konzum), tel. (+385-21) 32 55 04, sine@
primapharme.hr, www.primapharme.hr. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. A
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Summer 2012
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52 Makarska riviera
Leaving Split and heading south in the summertime is like
leaving a buzzing hive of culture and heading for a great long
stretch of pure hedonism.
If you take the scenic route, the coast road hugs white pebble
beaches lapped by alluring turquoise waters, attracting
sun-worshippers like bees to sugar water. You‘ll pass
through Omiš, once the stronghold of renowned pirates, a
delightful old town where the River Cetina plunges through
a spectacular canyon into the sea.
Travelling south, you pass a string of villages, some old, some
new, all today magnets for tourists. Finally, at Brela a straight
stretch of coastline starts, 53km long, under the looming
hulk of the Biokovo mountains. This is the Makarska Riviera,
and this is where you‘ll find some of the most photographed,
most famous and most prized beach resorts on the Adriatic.
This coastline basks on average in 2750 hours of sunshine
per year. The sea is incredibly clear and inviting, with
an average year-round temperature of 20°C reaching
summertime peaks of 23 °C.
Apart from the sea and the sun, here you can enjoy healthy
and appetising Mediterranean food such as fish and seafood,
chard, tomatoes and olive oil. In high summer you can enjoy
Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
the luxury of ripe figs fresh from the tree; at other times
sweets and liqueurs made with carob, grape, citrus fruits
and cherries. And of course, there‘s plenty of local wine.
Most resorts of the Makarska Riviera are not particularly
old, although archaeological finds testify to life here since
the Neolithic period. The coast spent long centuries under
threat of invasion from seafaring invaders, so settlers built
their village on high ground under the protective shoulders
of the mountains.
After a strong earthquake in 1962 reduced many of these
ancient homes to rubble, the villagers descended to start a
new life beside the sparkling waters of the sea. The building
of hotels started in a big way, and this became one of the
most popular and attractive spots for holidaymakers in
Europe.
The Vepric Shrine
On the main coast road heading west from Makarska, set
into the slopes of a hill is the shrine of Vepric, dedicated to
the Virgin Mary. The forested, hilly landscape with a brook
in the valley is reminiscent of Lourdes, the miraculous
Marian shrine in France, which is probably why in 1908
Bishop Juraj Carić founded the Vepric shrine. It has a little
grotto similar to the one where Our Lady appeared to the
young girl Bernardette Soubirous in 1858.
Fully equipped for the large numbers of pilgrims that flock
here, the shrine has a chapel, an altar, confessionals,
stations of the cross and paths for processions as well
as buildings for retreats and the pastoral staff that
work here. If you‘d like to enjoy a few moments of quiet
contemplation in the lovely park here you might best
avoid the main feast days of 11 February, 25 March, 15
August and 7-8 September.
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Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
In recent times the realisation has dawned as to what was
lost when those villages were abandoned: they are in fact a
treasure trove of folk culture. All in stone and in spectacular
mountain settings, they have great architectural and
ethnological value. The village way of life was synonymous
with music and dance, textiles and crafts - not to mention
agriculture and food. A number of traditional konobe (taverns)
are now open offering great hospitality and authentic
Dalmatian cuisine.
As well as the villages in the immediate vicinity of the resorts
in this guide, from Makarska it‘s an easy ride to some larger
places in the Dalmatian hinterland such as Zagvozd, Imotski
(with its Red and Blue Lakes) and Vrgorac, famous for its
seven towers built during the Ottoman wars, as well as the
well-preserved historical village of Kokorići.
Take your pick. Tour the coast and find your perfect slice of
heaven: a rocky cove or a stretch of perfect shingle. Take a
trip inland and discover the age-old culture of the region. Take
a hike to the highest peak of Biokovo and see Brač and Hvar
islands lying peacefully at your feet. Hire a bike or indulge in
a wealth of watersports. Summertime calls!
Ariving on the Makarska Riviera
The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km away.
The airport is served by domestic and international
scheduled flights, as well as charters during summer.
For timetable information, see www.split-airport.hr. To
get to Makarska you‘ll need to take a bus or hire a car.
For more information about travelling to and from Split,
see page Arriving & Transport in Split.
By car: if you take the A1 motorway , take the Šestanovac
exit. A toll is payable, costs 14kn in one direction for a
car from Split, 171kn from Zagreb (Prices are expected
to rise by 15% as of 1 June). From Split, there is also
the Adriatic highway. Take a detour inland to avoid
bottlenecks at Omiš if you‘re travelling at the weekend
during peak season.
By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, Split
and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from Mostar
(Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Montenegro) and
Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobusni-kolodvor.com.
By train: Makarska is not served by the railway network.
Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče, then transfer by
bus. Rail timetable information: www.hznet.hr.
Makarska riviera
Baška Voda
Baška Voda is one of the busiest resort on the Makarska
Riviera. With a fair selection of shops, bars and restaurants,
in summer it has the atmosphere of a lively little town.
With plenty of reasonably-priced accommodation in hotels,
campsites and private apartments, Baška Voda is popular
with young people and families with children. There‘s plenty
to do, from sports of all kinds to beach bars that transform
into night clubs, and no shortage of entertainment laid on.
Baška Voda‘s ancient core, known as Gradina, lies on a
mound just uphill from the waterfront. The names on ancient
gravestones testify that the site has been inhabited since
Illyrian times, about 4 centuries BC. The Greeks traded
here and the Romans settled here - the latter named the
town Aronia.
Fortifications were built in the Middle Ages when this
coastline was constantly invaded: there are sections of the
bastions still standing today. This is the site of important
archaeological finds such as amphorae, coins, jewellery and
glass, which you can see in the town museum. There‘s also
a museum of shells - the Malacological Museum.
The inhabitants of Baška Voda once made their living by
fishing, as well as farming the fields of nearby Baško Polje,
where today there‘s a large camp site.
Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin on Brač
island, or to Drvenik further south from Sućuraj on Hvar
island. For information see www.jadrolinija.hr.
Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports From Makarska,
you can travel to Sumartin on the island of Brač, while to get
to Hvar island (Sućuraj) you need to travel south to Drvenik.
For taxi transfers to and from the ferry ports, check out
www.connecto-taxi.com.
Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk Makarska, tel. (+385-21)
67 95 15. On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells
ferry tickets. QJune - September Open 08:00 - 20:00.
July, August Open 07:00 - 21:00. October - May 31 Open
08:00 - 09:00, 11:30 - 12:30, 17:30 - 18:30.
Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor
Makarska) Ante Starčevića 30, Makarska, tel.
(+385-21) 61 23 33. There is one desk for information
and tickets, open daily 05:00 - 22:30. The manned left
luggage facility (no lockers) has the same working hours
as the ticket office, price 10kn per day per item. QThe
car park is open 00:00 - 24:00 from 1 May to 1 October,
otherwise 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Price: 7kn/h, you may park for 5 minutes free of charge.
Summer 2012
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54 Makarska riviera
However, there are still plenty of vineyards around so you
can buy local wine direct from the barrel - just bring your
own container!
When Slav tribes sacked the coast in the 7th century, Aronia
was destroyed. Life retreated into the mountainside villages
of Bast and Topići - themselves largely depopulated since
the 1962 quake. Nowadays, the architectural and cultural
value of these villages has been recognised: Topići has been
proclaimed in its entirety a protected heritage site and Bast
offers a number of picturesque places to stay. Both will charm
you with their folk architecture and delightful scenery, and
both can tempt you with some authentic Dalmatian cuisine
in old-fashioned taverns. They‘re also ideal points to start a
hike to the Sveti Ilija peak (1642m). A less demanding walk is
the 6km coastal path that leads through the delightful little
resorts of Promajna, Bratuš and Krvavica.
Baška Voda Tourist Board Obala sv. Nikole 31, tel. (+385-
21) 62 07 13, info@baskavoda.hr, www.baskavoda.hr.
QJune - June 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open
08:00 - 21:00.
Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
Brela
A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly
close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling
effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump
in and enjoy them is irresistible.
This rock is the famous motif of the resort of Brela. It stands
for the reasons why we love this coast: clean, deep waters
great for swimming; azure seas and skies, the restorative
scent and welcome shade of the pine forests. The beaches
here have won numerous international accolades.
Thanks to 6km of wonderful white pebble beaches with
fabulous views, the ancient hillside settlement of Brela
developed into a handsome resort. Beautiful beachside
homes line the long promenade, and a handful of good
hotels are hidden in thick pine woods. Steep paths head up
the mountainside towards the older parts of the settlement.
A local society is dedicated to preserving and showcasing
the culture of old Brela: it‘s well worth taking a trip up the
mountain to Gornja Brela and popping into their visitor centre
where you can find out about the old churches, chapels and
archaeological treasures dotted around.
Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point for exploring
the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst landscapes, endemic
species, incredible views and adventure sports challenges.
You‘ll find maps and information at the information centre
that‘s also located there.
Brela Tourist Board Trg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel.
(+385-21) 61 84 55, tz-brela@st.t-com.hr, www.brela.
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
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Drvenik
29 km south of Makarska is a deep semi-circular bay with the
village of Drvenik clustered at its head. The shore is dotted
with coves and sandy bays. It‘s peaceful, friendly and the
scenery is gorgeous - it‘s a great place for a peaceful holiday
(and has free wifi internet too!). From here you can also hop on
a ferry to Hvar island - it‘s best if you have some wheels so
you can explore. Drvenik is overlooked by a hilltop fort and the
15th century church of St George in the old hillside settlement.
Drvenik Tourist Board Donja Vala 241, tel. (+385-21) 62
82 00, info@drvenik.hr, www.drvenik.hr. QOpen Mon,
Wed, Fri 08:00 - 18:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.
Gradac
When we arrive at Gradac, 44 km south of Makarska, we‘ve
come to the southern tip of the Makarska Riviera. Again,
several small villages make up the Gradac district: as well
as Gradac itself there‘s Drvenik (above), Brist, Podaca and
Zaostrog. Each is a small, friendly, quiet and laid-back resort
in itself and there are plenty of delightful beaches to choose
from. Again, the older culture of these places lies in the hillside
settlements. There, as well as prehistoric mounds you‘ll find
a 16th century defensive tower in Čista and the old chapel
of St Pascal on Plana hill. A point of significant interest in
Zaostrog is the 16th century monastery of St Mary. The monk
and poet Andrija Kačić Miosić lived and worked here, and is
buried here. He wrote a very popular book of folk verse which
both served as a historical document and helped develop the
modern Croatian language.
Gradac Tourist Board, info@gradac.hr, www.gradac.hr.,
Gradac Tourist Information Centre Trg Soline,tel.(+385-
21) 69 73 75QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Makarska
As you can guess from its name, the fine old town of
Makarska is the administrative and cultural heart of the
Makarska Riviera. Harmonious stone buildings cluster
around a busy waterfront lined with cafés and restaurants.
Sailors and fishermen potter about their business; tourists
stroll lazily in the heat. The whole scene is framed by the
formidable Biokovo mountains above.
There‘s a luminous quality to the light thanks to the sunshine
reflecting from the white stone of the cliffs, the houses, the
flagstones and the clear azure sea. With the coastline fringed
by white shingle beaches and swept by refreshing breezes,
it‘s not hard to see why tourists started to arrive at the turn
of the 20th century.
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Makarska riviera
Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
The first hotel was built in 1914, and many more in the
period following the Second World War. Sometimes large
but still pleasant, the hotels were built amid the pine forests,
preserving the beauty of the natural landscape and the
character of the town. The riviera started to attract a healthy
slice of the tourists arriving to these lands for their holidays.
Today in high summer the beaches and hotels are packed
to capacity, and the nights are alive with people enjoying the
balmy air and buzzing around the restaurants, bars and clubs.
But escapists can still find tranquil corners and experiences
off the mass tourist radar.
There is much more to Makarska than sun, sea and fun.
The city‘s roots reach back to the 4th century BC, when it is
thought to have been used as a trading post by the Cretans.
The Illyrians were the first tribes to truly leave their mark here,
naming the settlement Muccurum. The Romans first wrested
control over these lands in 228 AD. The Ostrogoths chased
out the Romans in 548, and the Slavs settled here in the 7th
century. They made Muccurum (now called Mokra) the centre
of their principality, which was famous for its invincible pirates.
Then followed long centuries when the Turks, the Venetians,
the French and the Austro-Hungarians battled for dominion
over the territory. Each left their mark, resulting in the pleasing
mix of historic buildings you see today.
Perhaps the most important historic building in the town
is the Franciscan monastery, five centuries old. It has a
Malacological Museum (or Museum of Shells, it has some
spectacular specimens), a picture gallery and a library. The
Institute of the Mountains and Sea is also based there. The
town‘s main square, Kačićev trg, has the Church of St Mark,
an art gallery, library and music school. On the waterfront
you‘ll find the town museum and the Church of St Philip. The
church of St Peter resides on a green headland in a delightful
park. Our What to See pages tell you more about the sights.
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56 Makarska riviera
What‘s more, it‘s well worth exploring the mountainside
villages such as Baškovići, Kotišina, Makar, Puharići and Veliko
Brdo. This is where the local people sheltered for centuries
from invaders approaching from the sea. You‘ll come across
fortresses, chapels, stone shelters used by shepherds,
terraces and even a botanical garden at Kotišina. It was
founded by Father Jure Radić, the Franciscan monk from
Makarska who also founded the Museum of Shells. Father
Radić also created a nature trail on Biokovo which is just one
option for a spectacular hike.
Although largely depopulated following a strong earthquake
in 1962, in recent years efforts have been made to renovate
and revive the original customs and culture of the upland
villages. With amazing views over the coast and islands, these
are wonderful places to enjoy some peaceful moments and
unique cultural experiences.
Makarska Tourist Board Obala kralja Tomislava 16, tel.
(+385-21) 61 20 02, tzg-makarska@st.t-com.hr, www.
makarska-info.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.
Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
Podgora
Clustered at the foot of a green slope backed by dramatic
peaks, it‘s not hard to see how Podgora got its name, which
means under the mountain.
With a long history as a fishing village and a tourist tradition
dating back to the 1920s, Podgora is a sleepy place of 1,500
souls which swells more than fivefold in the summer - it‘s
second only to Makarska when it comes to tourist numbers.
It‘s not hard to see why: the combination of white shingle,
green pine and rocky grey mountain are a tourist‘s holy trinity.
This is a laid-back resort enlivened by almost nightly
performances from mid-June to the end of August: classical
music, heart-stirring Dalmatian klapa groups, rock and
folk dance performances bring drama and culture to warm
evenings.
As elsewhere, Podgora‘s inhabitants for centuries relied on
the hinterland for protection and sustenance. The attractive
old inland settlement of Gornja Podgora is worth looking round
and serves as an entrance point to the Biokovo Nature Park.
Following the coast road towards Dubrovnik, the following
places also fall within the Podgora district:
Drašnice - a tiny place, the 2001 census found some 300
souls here. There‘s a choice of pebbly coves, and with a
The Turkish Caves
You‘ve read a lot about the turbulent years of the Turkish
invasions and the local‘s defence strategies. One
particularly interesting example is the so-called “Turkish
Caves” near Podpeći, near Tučepi. This is where people
took their families and livestock to hide till the danger
had passed. They‘re called turske peći in local dialect,
peći meaning “caves”. And hence the name Tučepi!
little effort you can find some quiet spots. In one of the coves
there‘s a cave named Medvidina where a local fisherman
reported seeing a Mediterranean Monk Seal - a critically
endangered species.
Igrane - barely larger with 400 inhabitants, this pleasant little
place clings to the foot of the hills and has a lovely long sand
and shingle beach. One sight of interest is the Zalina kula
tower built in the War of Candia between the Venetians and
the Turks. There‘s a picturesque waterfront and the olive oil
and fishing industries are alive and kicking.
Živogošće - Now we‘re 20 km away from Split, heading
south. Živogošće is a resort made up of a string of five tiny
hamlets: Strnj, Porat, Mala Duba, Blato and Murava. Newer
homes and a couple of hotels lie alongside the water; the
older settlements are on the upper side of the coast road.
Podgora Tourist Board Andrije Kačića Miošića 2, tel.
(+385-21) 62 55 60, tz-podgora@st.t-com.hr, www.
tz-podgora.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 07:30 - 14:00.
Tučepi
A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime
enjoyment, Tučepi boasts the longest beach on the Makarska
Riviera - a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling easy
access into the dazzling blue water.
Tučepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riviera -
the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after the Romans
left, the population lived in constant fear of invasion. You‘ll
find a treasury of history and folk architecture and culture in
the hillside villages: defensive towers and secret caves where
the locals hid from the Ottoman armies; mediaeval chapels
and churches, and rural stone buildings.
Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
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In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy locals started
to build fine villas along the seashore. The best-preserved
example with a wonderful courtyard is today a good hotel,
Hotel Kaštelet. Another villa in 1911 became the home of the
Tučepi Oil Growers‘ Collective, founded on the initiative of
local priest and teacher Father Mate Šimić. It is probably due
to the work done by him and the association that Tučepi‘s
olive oil is rumoured to be the best on this stretch of coast.
Around these fine villas modern homes and hotels grew up in
the 20th century. Low-rise and harmonious with white walls
and terracotta rooftops, there‘s a delightful air of breezy
holiday chic. A summertime festival of culture starts on
June 13, St Anthony‘s day (Tučepi‘s patron saint), while the
ka Kultura festival brings music, drama and art to the old
hillside villages of Srida Sela, Podpeć, Čovići, Mravičići, Ševelji,
Šimići and Podstup.
Tučepi Tourist Board Donji ratac 30, tel. (+385-21) 62
31 00, tzo-tucepi@st.t-com.hr, www.tucepi.com. Q
Open 08:00 - 22:00.
What to see
Museums
Gradac Museum (Muzej Gradca) Uz Kuk 6, Gradac,
tel. (+385-21) 69 75 61, info@museum-gradac.com,
www.museum-gradac.com. A private museum in a
traditional family home in Gradac, a village in the far south
of the Makarska Riviera. The idea of setting up a museum
has been alive for generations in the Andrijašević family, and
collecting and displaying the material has been a labour of
love, aided by donations of items from helpful neighbours.
Mainly consisting of everyday objects testifying to the way of
life in the 19th and 20th centuries, there are five collections:
fishing, cooking, carpentry, sailing and music. There are also
a fragments from a Roman villa rustica. There‘s a lovely
collection of folk costumes, and everything is displayed in
authentic surroundings. Q June Open 09:00 - 20:00. July -
August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:30. Admission 10kn.
Makarska Town Museum (Gradski muzej
Makarska) Obala kralja Tomislava 17/1, Makarska,
tel. (+385-21) 61 23 02, gradski-muzej-makarska@
st.htnet.hr, www.mdc.hr/makarska/index.htm.
Makarska‘s town museum is a great place to find out
about the history and culture underlying the sun, sea and
summertime hedonism. It covers the history of the region
from prehistory to the modern period, and has a wealth of
archaeological artefacts as well as material covering the
customs and culture of the seaside areas and the mountain
villages. The Museum building, the waterfront Tonoli Palace,
is a historic treasure in itself. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00
- 21:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
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Makarska riviera
Beaches
The Makarska Riviera is famous for its wonderful
beaches, some of which are several kilometres long.
The beaches are usually shingle or pebble smoothed
by the sea into rounded shapes which are comfortable
to lie and walk on. The white beaches fringed by thick
pine forests and the refreshing crystal clear waters are
among the main attractions of the Makarska Riviera.
Here are some of the best of the beaches.
Dugi rat Beach (ex Punta Rata Beach), Brela - This
beach is regularly nominated as one of the loveliest in
Europe, if not the world. Its white shingle turns into coarse
sand at the water‘s edge, making it ideal for children. It‘s
backed by pine trees which provide welcome shade when
the sun is at its strongest, a perfect spot for an afternoon
nap. This is the beach where you‘ll find the Rock of Brela
sitting just off the shore, covered in ancient crooked
pines. As the beach is in the centre of the pleasant resort
of Brela, there are plenty of restaurants and cafés along
the waterfront as well as sports equipment for hire.
Živogošće Beach, Živogošće - Olive trees and pine
forests grow alongside the lovely shingle beach at
Živogošće, so this beach is a great place to keep your
cool and take a refreshing dip on even the hottest day.
Nearby Hotel Nimfa is a good place to find something
to eat and drink, and has tennis courts, an open-air
swimming pool and other leisure facilities.
Nugal Beach, Tučepi - Nugal Beach is a famous naturist
beach on the Makarska Riviera. It‘s located east of
Makarska, not far from Tučepi. It‘s hidden by steep cliffs;
to get to it you need to take a stroll through a lovely pine
forest. This is a piece of heaven for those who enjoy the
freedom of sunbathing and bathing in the clean sea just
as nature intended.
Mala Duba Beach, Živogošće - This beach made of
small white pebbles stretches through the whole village
of Mala Duba at Živogošće. Part of it is reserved for
naturists. This is a spectacular spot where the mountains
plunge right into the sea on the idyllic, pine-fringed
shoreline. It‘s a great place to enjoy an evening stroll and
watch the sun go down. Hotel Nimfa has entertainment
on summer evenings. There‘s a small market where
you can stock up on delicious, locally-grown fruit and
vegetables.
Berulija Beach, Brela - This beach, 400m long, is made
up of three little coves, perfect for those who prefer
more intimate beaches to long stretches of shingle. The
beach is well equipped with toilets and showers, there‘s
a lifeguard on duty and wheelchair access. Plenty of
shade is available in the pine forest behind the beach.
Gornja Vala Beach, Gradac - Gradac is a lively little
resort with a number of hotels with discos and bars open
all night. The harbour here provides perfect shelter for
small vessels in bad weather. Gornja Vala beach is the
longest beach on the Croatian Adriatic and one of the
most famous of the Makarska Riviera‘s shingle beaches.
It‘s located just south of the little harbour. This is a scenic
spot at the foot of the mountains. Pine and olive provide
shade, and there are plenty of sports facilities. There‘s a
small naturist beach a short distance away.
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58 Makarska riviera
Sport
With mountains, sea and rivers, the Makarska area
is an unbeatable playground for adventure sports.
Cycling is probably the no. 1 sport on land here thanks
to the great scenery and challenging terrain. Despite its
allure, you might rather avoid the narrow, bendy, often
overcrowded Adriatic coastal highway: accidents are all
to frequent. Better pick a route through the old hillside
villages - details in the nearest tourist board office. In
the Biokovo mountains a tarmac road runs 23 km from
the park entrance to the Sveti Jure peak (again, watch
out for traffic; helmets are mandatory). There‘s also an
8 km gravel track from Staza to Saranač, as well as belts
cleared of trees to prevent the spread of fires around
the edge of the Nature Park. A 5km coastal path from
Makarska to Tučepi is perfect for a gentler ride. Still on
dry land, there are scenic and interesting hiking trails in
the Biokovo Nature Park, while thrills aplenty await rock
climbers in the steep Cetina gorge at Omiš. There are
also climing walls on the Osejava peninsula in Makarska
and on a crag overlooking Brela. Even higher above the
earth, there are two paragliding take-off points at Miletin
bor and Pržinovac in the Biokovo Nature Park. Water
babies will love a refreshing ride on a raft along the fastflowing
Cetina river. And then, of course, there‘s the sea.
You can sail (or learn to), or surf, or windsurf. You can
ride a jet ski, or launch yourself in the air behind one on
a paraglider. You can rent a boat, learn to dive, or enjoy
a spot of sea fishing. Whichever you choose, we assure
you the experience will be unforgettable.
The Archaeological Museum Collection
(Arheološka muzejska zbirka) Blato 12, Baška
Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 06 95, tonijurisic@net.hr. Traces
of human habitation on the Makarska Riviera coast date back
to the Neolithic age. This museum covers the period from
these prehistoric beginnings up to the 7th century AD. The
nations that settled and passed through here during that
time include the Illyrians, the Greeks, the Romans and the
Slavs. This makes for an interesting mix of artefacts in this
pleasant little museum, with some highly attractive pieces on
display. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Admission 5kn.
The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej)
Srida 3, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 02 61. Baška
Voda‘s Malacological Museum, like that in Makarska, has
a collection of molluscs not only from the depths of the
Adriatic but also from other seas around the world. QOpen
10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 3 - 5kn.
The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej
Makarska) Franjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21)
61 12 56. Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary,
the Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and
monk Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in the
monastery. Created with painstaking attention to scientific
detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden beauty in the
world around us (including under the sea), Friar Radić created a
collection that is the best of its kind in the country. Malacology
is the branch of zoology that studies molluscs - a large branch
of the animal kingdom that includes everything from slugs
and snails to octopus and squid plus a host of creatures with
shells. There are about 3000 shells in the collection and a
collection of invertebrate fossils. There‘s also a collection on
the flora of the Biokovo mountains and the Adriatic region.
The collection of shells includes some spectacular specimens
from the Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the
world. So, whether you‘re a budding biologist or a curious
passer-by, there‘s sure to be something that will take your
breath away. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 12:00. Admission 10 - 15kn.
The Museum of Fish, Crustaceans and Molluscs
(Muzej riba, rakova i školjki) Ulica fra Filipa Grabovca
bb, Makarska, tel. (+385-) 091 596 88 98. A little different
in scope to the Malacological Museum, this institution collects
only local specimens and collects fish and crustaceans
(e.g. crabs, lobsters and prawns) as well as molluscs. The
collection includes some 200 specimens including some
incredibly rare and interesting beasties. QOpen 08:30 -
13:00, 17:30 - 22:30. Admission 5 - 10kn.
Galleries
The Antun Gojak Town Gallery (Gradska galerija
Antuna Gojaka) Ulica don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1,
Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, galerija.agojak@
makarska.hr. The Gallery started life thanks to a donation
in 1988 by Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his
brother Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska‘s
Van Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life
itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska‘s first town
gallery in the building of the former grammar school. Slowly,
new works by other artists are being added to the collection,
and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the Gallery is today
an essential component of Makarska‘s cultural life. QOpen
09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
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Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
Churches
Church of Our Lady of Carmel (Crkva Gospe od
Karmela) Soline, Brela. The lovely old Church of Our
Lady of Carmel is a votive church built to give thanks for the
victory of Christian fighters against the Turks at Sinj in 1715, a
battle that ensured freedom from Ottoman dominion for miles
around. For this reason, the church was consecrated as Our
Lady of Victory. The church stands in a wooded spot close to
the shore, a simple, low-slung structure with a cross-shaped
floor plan, a semicircular apse and a belltower with a low roof
supported on eight column. Mass: Sun 09:00, 19:00, June
Sun 19:00, July, August Sun 20:00.
Church of Our Lady of the Rosary (Crkva Gospe
od Ružarija) Igrane, nr. Podgora. The slender bell tower
of Our Lady is a startlingly pretty sight perched on a hill
above this coastal village. The church dates back to 1752
but was significantly extended in the 20th century. The bell
tower was built between 1923 and 1925: a wedding-cake-like
construction with four layers of columns encasing an open
staircase. It‘s not unlike the famous campanile of St Duje in
Split. Apart from a collection of furniture and implements
dating from the 18th century, the church has stained glass
windows added in 2001 created according to the designs
of two contemporary Croatian artists. Mass: Sun 11:00.
Church of St Anthony of Padova Srida sela, Gornji
Tučepi, tel. (+385-21) 62 32 51. The hillside hamlet of
Srida sela has a large and impressive parish church built
between 1898 and 1901 to serve all the hamlets that
make up Gornji Tučepi. Even though the hamlets were largely
depopulated following the 1962 quake, this is still the parish
church of the Tučepi area. It‘s built in quite a different style
to most Dalmatian churches: it has a pale lemon façade
with a neo-Classical doorway, plaster mouldings and a large
semicircular window in the frontage. The church‘s ceiling is
painted with images of the Assumption and of St Anthony
of Padova, and all windows are in stained glass. A statue of
Friar Ante Gilić, who constructed the church, stands at the
bottom of the nave. Mass: Sun 11:00. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00,
16:30 - 18:30
Church of St Philip Neri (Crkva sv. Filipa Nerija)
Obala kralja Tomislava (50m from Hotel Biokovo),
Makarska. You‘ll find this little church and its belltower
seemingly interspersed between two houses right on the
waterfront. Its construction was initiated in the 18th century
by Bishop Stjepan Blašković, originally as part of the complex
of the Monastery of the Sacred Oratory which was later
burned down. Bishop Blašković is buried by the main altar
here, as is his nephew, Bishop Fabijan Blašković. A local
legend has it that one night the sound of the organ playing
softly was heard emanating from the locked church. The
townspeople interpreted this as a sign from Bishop Stjepan
that he‘d like to be moved. They opened his grave and to
their surprise they found his body perfectly preserved. They
interpreted this as a miracle, although a likely explanation is
the action of sea salt. Whichever way, the grave was closed
and the eerie organ music was never heard again.
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Makarska riviera
Gastro
The Makarska
Riviera has a very
close relationship
with the hinterland
and with Mount
Biokovo - the
hinterland and the
coast simply can‘t
function without
one another. Many
of the dishes of the
Makarska region
have their roots in the hinterland. You can find excellent
Biokovo cheese flavoured with fresh herbs freshly
picked on the pristine hillsides. The cows and sheep
reared in this region and whose milk is used to make the
cheese spend their days in these idyllic - if precarious -
surroundings. One speciality of the region is kaštradina
- a stew made with dried and smoked lamb, mutton or
goat meat. Kaštradina comes from the cauldron of
the Biokovo shepherd, whose wisdom inspired Greek
philosophy”, says Veljko Barbieri, a famous Croatian
food writer. Another speciality worth hunting down is
the Biokovo peka - four kinds of meat (lamb, veal, goat
meat and chicken) cooked under an iron lid heaped with
embers. Then there‘s pašticada ; a Dalmatian classic
- beef studded with bacon and garlic and stewed in red
wine. If you come across a type of vegetable called motar
you must try it - it‘s samphire, a plant that grows wild in
coastal areas, including on the Osejava peninsula and on
the islands. It can be mixed with any combination of wild
spring vegetables such as chicory, dandelion, spinach,
tender broccoli spears or collard green, and it is excellent
served with octopus. Or try one of the fabulous big
cabbages that grow in Biokovo gardens, often whipped
up by locals into a tasty tomato-based stew. Finally, a
wonderful delicacy from Brela is a special cake, sweet or
savoury, called blitvenjak, made with chard (mangold).
The sweet version is prepared with walnuts. The locals
on the Makarska Riviera are extremely proud of their
olive oil, which you can buy for about 80-100 kn per
litre. The olive-growing tradition in Tučepi is so strong
that they have built a monument to the olive mill on the
waterfront, featuring millstones used in the oilmaking
process. And finally, dessert. If you come across ravioli
in Makarska or Baška, they are a sweet treat consisting
of light, crumbly pastry with a sweet walnut filling. And
Makarska‘s most famous cake is the Makarana: a
harmonious blend of butter and eggs, lemon and orange
peel, almonds, maraschino cherry liqueur and a couple
of secret ingredients. You simply have to try it!
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60 Makarska riviera
Church of St Stephen the Martyr (Crkva sv.
Stjepana prvomučenika) Donje Selo, Brela, tel.
(+385-21) 61 86 18. At the end of the 19th century, a
growing population along the seashore at Brela was in need
of a church, so the Church of St Stephen was built in 1889
on the site of an older church. Standing in a thicket of pine,
it‘s a pleasant stone building with a pure white belltower
added in the 1950s. The interior is beautifully airy, its light
walls spangled with colour from colourful stained-glass
windows. The main altar was carved in marble in 1897 by a
stonemason from Split. An altarpiece depicting St Stephen,
St George, St John and St Paul dates back to 1890 and is the
work of an Italian painter. An altar to Our Lady was bought in
Venice in 1825. Mass: Mon - Wed 08:00, Tue. Fri 19:00, Sat
08:00, Sun 11:00.
Monastery of the Holy Cross (Samostan sv. Križa)
Živogošće, nr. Podgora. A community of Franciscan monks
arrived in Živogošće in 1563 following the destruction of
their monastery in Herzegovina by the Turks. In 1620 they
finished building their monastery and church just uphill from
the beautiful seashore, by a source of fresh water. The Turks
attacked again in 1647, sending the monks into hiding on
Hvar island. They returned and rebuilt, improving the church
and monastery and adding a bell tower. In 1967, when the
population of the coast swelled after the big earthquake
destroyed many homes in the hinterland, the monastery‘s
Church of the Holy Cross became the parish church serving
the population for miles around. Mass: 07:30, Sun 08:00,
10:00.
St George‘s Church (Crkva sv. Jure) Tučepi. This
little treasure is a rare example of a well-preserved mediaeval
chapel on the shores of the Makarska Riviera. It looks a bit
lost as it‘s surrounded by l arge hotel buildings, but it‘s utterly
endearing with its simple adornments and stone roof. It was
built in 1311 on the site of an oratory attached to a Roman villa
rustica, which was itself replaced by a mediaeval basilica and
cemetery. This is an interesting archaeological site with the
remains of the villa rustica and headstones around the chapel.
One headstone bearing a portrait of its owner is unusually
elderly, dating from the first century. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
St John‘s Church Gornja Podaca, nr. Gradac. Despite
its unassuming looks, this little church in the mountain hamlet
of Gornja Podaca is one of the most valuable examples of
pre-Romanesque church architecture in Dalmatia. It was built
in the 11th or 12th century thanks to an endowment by the
Kačić family of local nobles.
St Mark‘s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) Trg fra Andrije
Kačića-Miošića, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 13 65.
Viewed from a distance, the terracotta-tipped belfry of St
Mark‘s Church marks Makarska‘s central square, the heart of
the town. It is sometimes referred to as Makarska‘s cathedral,
since right up to 1828 Makarska had its own bishop who
Archdiocese of Split-Makarska. The bishop has his seat in
Split, so nowadays St Mark‘s has the status of a co-cathedral
or collegiate church: a church with no bishop but otherwise
similar in importance to a cathedral. Its interior is certainly
impressive. Construction of the church started in 1700 and it
was consecrated in 1756 although never completely finished.
The Makarska bishops began creating a religious treasury
befitting the status of the diocese, resulting in a wonderful
collection of religious artworks and liturgical items created
by craftsmen from Venice, Italy and Austria as well as local
masters. In common with the architectural treasures of the
town, much of the religious collection reflects the Baroque
spirit prevalent at the time of its creation. The treasury is
an important chronicle not only the development of the
Catholic Church during that era but also of trade relations
and cultural exchange. Mass: 07:00. 19:00, Sun 08:00,
09:00, 10:30, 19:00.
St Michael‘s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) Gradac,
tel. (+385-21) 69 75 88. A single-nave church built in 1852
on the site of a Roman-era settlement just uphill from the
shore in the centre of Gradac. Its bell tower was added in
1962 and modernised in 2002. The Latin inscription above
the door reads: “This temple consecrated to Saint Michael
was built in the year of our Lord 1852 with the help of Franz
Joseph I, Emperor and King, and the hard work and unity of
the people of Gradac, for the administration of Josip Bilas,
on land donated by the Šutić family.”
St Michael‘s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) Igrane,
nr. Podgora. This is the oldest mediaeval church on the
Makarska Riviera, built at the end of the 11th century or the
beginning of the 12th century. It has a unique construction
and is a protected cultural monument. High up in the foothills
of the Biokovo mountains, for centuries this tiny church served
the people who lived in the mountain settlements and it had
the status of a parish church. It has a single-nave construction
with a stone roof and a bell above the frontage.
had his seat here. Since 1828 Makarska has part of the Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
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St Nicholas‘ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) Obala sv.
Nikole 73, Baška Voda. This church consecrated to the
patron saint of Baška Voda sits at the top of an elegant sweep
of stairs in the centre of town. It was built in 1889 in a neo-
Romantic style. Two small bells sit atop the church frontage,
while the belltower to the right was added in 1991. In 1987
colourful stained glass windows by contemporary painter
Josip Botteri Dini were installed, and a year later modern
paintings of the Stations of the Cross painted by Josip Bifel.
Mass: 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:00.
St Peter‘s Church St Peter‘s Peninsula, Makarska.
This simple little church was built in the 15th century on the
foundations of its forerunner from the 6th century. The church
is sited on the forested St Peter‘s Peninsula, which protects
Makarska‘s harbour. In front of the church and dotted round
the peninsula you‘ll find the ruins of buildings dating back to
Roman, Venetian and prehistoric times. The forest park and
the view of the town and the mountains make it well worth
enjoying a stroll here.
The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption
of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene
Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) Obala hrvatskih
rodoljuba 36, Zaostrog (nr. Gradac), tel. (+385-21) 62
93 30, www.franjevci-split.hr. The pretty and unspoilt
shoreline at Zaostrog is graced with the harmonious form of
a large monastery with considerable historical and cultural
significance. It was home to Andrija Kačić-Miošić, the friar,
philosopher, teacher and poet from nearby Brist for most
of his life - he is buried in the church here. The monastery
in Zaostrog was originally founded in the 13th century by a
community of Hermits of St Augustine who left in the face of
Turkish invasions. A Franciscan community, itself displaced
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Makarska riviera
from Bosnia, settled in the abandoned building in 1468 and
are still there today (not the same ones, of course). They
worked hard to expand and rebuild their monastery when
fate deemed it necessary, building a library that now has
over 20,000 volumes, and running schools and a seminary
for over five centuries. Today there is an excellent museum
here, which, apart from the library, holds ethnographic and
liturgical collections, an archive that includes valuable Turkish
documentation, and a gallery of works by local artist Mladen
Veža. QOpen by prior arrangement.
The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption
of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene
Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) Franjevački put 1,
Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 22 59, www.franjevci-split.
hr. The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia building
their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were frustrated
by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and political
opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely monastery
you see today came into being. The old monastery complex
has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone wellhead, a
church and a bell tower. Mass: 07:00, Sun 07:00, 09:00.
The monastery served as a school for religious studies, in
1971 becoming part of the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The
monks studied natural sciences and humanities, founding a
library which today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as
journals, manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular,
Dr Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation of the
Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still active today
and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological Museum,
one of Makarska‘s top attractions, is a respected institution
with good links with similar museums around the world. The
Institute also has a herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo
and Adriatic regions. QOpen 07:00 - 12:00.
Looking for more?
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Summer 2012
61

62 Makarska riviera
Landmarks
Kalalarga (Široka ulica) Makarska. Široka ulica is
fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga - a Croatisation of
the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning Broad Street. The
street is anything but broad by modern standards, but back
in the day this was the very core of the town, the hub where
everything was happening. Makarska‘s Kalelarga winds
through the town, the stone walls to each side of you providing
welcome shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical
Dalmatian style with green wooden shutters, wrought-iron
railings and old-fashioned lanterns.
Kostanić‘s Grave (Kostanića grob) Sela, nr. Drvenik.
The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered
with very old gravestones called stećci (pronounced
“stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery surrounding
these stones, which date from the period between the 11th
and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at the
village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own legend.
Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac and Dragimir
Kostanić from Drvenik, were in love with the same girl, the
daughter of a duke named Jurić from Gradac. They fought a
duel which resulted in the death of Kostanić. The girl, who
loved Kostanić more, died of grief on hearing the news. This
is where Kostanić lies.
Monument to the
Tourist (Spomenik
turistu) Riva waterfront,
Makarska. Makarska and
its nearby resorts owe their
living to tourism these days,
so it‘s only right that in 2006
this statue was erected to
pay homage to the tourist on
the centenary of tourism in
the town. Created by young
sculptor Nikola Šanjeka, it
shows a rather chic couple
taking a stroll along the
waterfront. Look closely, and
you‘ll notice that the female
tourist has a striking lustre
to her right boob. Yes, it‘s believed that giving it a friendly
squeeze confers good luck upon the squeezer, as well as the
wrath of feminists the world over.
Statue of Don Mihovil
Pavlinović (Kip don
Mihovila Pavlinovića)
Podgora. For a small place,
Podgora has plenty of public
sculpture. And it has not one
but two notable memorials
to Don Mihovil Pavlinović, a
locally-born priest (1831-
1887) who became a leading
figure in the Croatian National
Revival, a political movement
campaigning for the right
to self-determination of the
Croatian people. There‘s a
statue of Don Mihovil on the
main square (which is also
named after him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his
grave has an unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a
colourful style reminiscent of Art Deco.
Split
telephone code is +385-21
Excursions
Makarska is well located to act as a base for exploring
the surrounding coastline, highlands and islands. In the
hinterland you‘ll find towns and villages where time has
stood still, full of history and folk culture. Within easy
reach are the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Korčula, each
with its own identity and story. All along the Makarska
Riviera tourist boats offer day trips to the islands, usually
with a rustic fish dinner included in the price.
An interesting place to explore is the delta of the River
Neretva, 62km south of Makarska. This region‘s cuisine
is based on freshwater food: you can sample frog and
eel. Close by are the Bašćina Lakes, near to the town of
Ploče. Though not large, they are geologically significant
due to their setting in the karst landscape. There are
seven lakes in all: Lake Oćuša, Crniševo, Podgora,
Sladinac, Vrbnik, Šipak and Plitko jezero (“Shallow Lake”).
Lake Vrbnik, the smallest, is the only one which isn‘t
connected to any of the others. There is large number
of endemic and protected species here, both plant and
animal. Bathing is allowed: the lakes are on average
3°C warmer than the sea, making this a popular spot
for bathing, rowing in traditional wooden boats called
lađe, and surfing.
The infamous pirate stronghold of Omiš lies at the mouth
of the River Cetina, 37km north of Makarska. Further
north still, Split, Solin and Trogir all feature UNESCO World
Heritage sites. We also recommend Sinj, famous for its
unique contest of equestrian and military prowess, the
Sinjska Alka. Sinj is also home to a miraculous painting
of Our Lady, making it a place of pilgrimage. Other
interesting places in the Cetina region include the historic
town of Trilj, which also offers plentiful opportunities for
adventure sports.
No visitor to the Makarska Riviera should leave without
taking a trip into the Biokovo mountains. It‘s a half-hour
drive to the highest peak, but with steep hairpin bends
it‘s not a drive for the faint-hearted - anyone with a fear
of heights would probably rather join an organised tour.
On your way up you‘ll drive through centuries-old stone
villages such as Gornji Tučepi. A meal in a rustic tavern
here is a real treat. The Biokovo Nature Park has a
botanical garden with numerous native and endemic
species, and there are plenty of interesting biking and
hiking trails in the area. On the south-east slopes of the
Biokovo mountains, close to the border with Herzegovina,
is the mediaeval town of Vrgorac. It is famous for its
seven stone towers built during the times of the Turkish
invasions. An essential destination for anyone looking
to get acquainted with the folk customs of times past is
Kokorići village. Here you can enjoy the restored stone
buildings and learn about the traditional way of life in the
region. Further north, also close to the Herzegovinian
border is the mountain town of Imotski. Of particular
interest here are the Red and Blue Lakes set deep
into the mountains. They take on their colour from the
surrounding rock.
Finally, it‘s a pity not to take advantage of the chance to
pop over to the islands. From Makarska you can hop on
a ferry to Sumartin on the island of Brač. If you‘d like to
go to Hvar, head south to the ferry port at Drvenik. Hvar
and Brač are large, diverse and culturally rich islands
- you‘re best off exploring them by car if you‘ve only a
day to spare. But even if you just pop over to enjoy the
slow island tempo for a day you surely won‘t regret is.
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Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole) Baška
Voda. Baška Voda‘s little harbour is the proud owner of an
impressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the
town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know that
it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who created the
bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer‘s grave in Paris
before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches sculpture at the
University of Rijeka, created this statue in 1999.
Statue of St Peter
(Spomenik sv. Petra) St
Peter‘s Peninsula, Makarska.
Watching protectively over
Makarska‘s waterfront from
a forested vantage point is a
statute of St Peter the Apostle.
In case you‘re wondering, that
key he‘s holding in his hand
there is to Heaven‘s gate, so
you might like to be on your best
behaviour. St Peter was one of
the apostles, sent by Christ to
spread his message of redemption. Venerated as one of the
most humble of men, the name Christ gave him meant “the
Rock” thanks to his steadfast nature. He went on to become
the founder of the Church and the first pope, no less. This
statue was erected in 2009 in a peaceful spot with a great
view over the town, a nice place to take a walk.
Stone Flag Post (Markovac / Štandarac (Kameni
stup za zastavu)) In front of the Tonoli Palace,
Makarska. Another souvenir left by the Venetians, this stone
column bearing a relief of the Lion of St Mark served as the
base for a flagpole. The open book that the lion is holding
shows that the post was built during times of peace.
Stone Tower (Kamena kula) Gornja Podaca, nr.
Gradac. During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more
than 200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland
lived in constant fear of raids. It‘s not unusual, driving around
the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built
to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings,
creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Podaca
dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is surrounded
by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake.
The Andrija Kačić-Miošić Monument (Spomenik
fra Andriji Kačiću Miošiću) Trg fra Andrije Kačića-
Miošića, Makarska. Since Andrija Kačić-Miošić is to the
Croatian language pretty much what Chaucer is to English,
and a local lad too, it‘s no surprise that a monument to his
memory takes pride of place on Makarska‘s central square.
His statue‘s plinth has a beautiful decorative panel at the
front in mosaic tiles - a recurring motif on work by Ivan Rendić,
the monument‘s creator. Rendić, born in Imotski in 1849, was
and still is one of Croatia‘s greatest sculptors. The coats-ofarms
you see featured on the mosaic are of all the countries
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mentioned by the poet in his famous songbook, „Pleasant
Conversation of the Slavic Peoples“. This expression of
national consciousness made Kačić-Miošić a hero in these
lands, but it didn‘t go down too well with the Hapsburg
Monarchy of the time. The Empire banned the mosaic; it
was finally added in 1922, 32 years after the monument was
erected. Kačić-Miošić was born in Brist, near Gradac to the
south of Makarska, in 1704. He was a monk, a philosopher
and a teacher as well as a poet who contributed much to
the development of the modern Croatian language. All in all,
a smashing bloke, you could say!
The Millstones Monument
(Kameni mlin) Tučepi. Tučepi‘s
olive oil press and oil-makers‘
association were founded in
1911 and are still glowing with
monounsaturated-style health
today: Tučepi‘s oil is among the most
prized for miles around. A monument
to the oil-making tradition in Tučepi
was created in the form of this pair
of millstones set on the waterfront.
The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela) Dugi rat Beach,
Brela. A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela‘s
gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the
natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey rock,
green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they melt into
each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual that is part of
the Makarska Riviera‘s very identity. The rock is a protected
natural monument, so no climbing please!
The Seagull‘s Wing Monument (Spomenik
Galebova krila) Podgora. On a hillside high above
Podgora‘s harbour is a striking piece of modern sculpture:
the 20m-high Seagull‘s Wing monument. During the Second
World War, Podgora became the headquarters of the
Partisans‘ flotilla, which helped defeat the Axis forces in
what became Yugoslavia. This monument was unveiled by
Tito in 1962 on the 20th anniversary of the founding of the
flotilla. Created by sculptor Rajko Radović, the image of the
bird in flight symbolises the liberation of the Adriatic region,
while its bent right wing represents those who fell in battle.
The monument is dedicated to all those who lost their lives
fighting against fascism.
The Venetian Water Fountain (Gradska česma)
Trg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska. A spectacular
stone structure in front of St Mark‘s Church featuring three
lions‘ heads spouting water from their mouths. As you might
guess from the big cat motif, the fountain dates from the time
when the Venetians occupied this coast - the period in history
mainly responsible for the romantic Baroque appearance of
the older parts of Makarska. The fountain was built in 1775
as a public water fountain - this is where people came to get
their supplies for daily use in their homes, and indulge in a
little juicy gossip along the way. Today the splash of the water
refreshes the square on the hottest summer day.
Palaces
The Ivanišević Family Palace (Barokna palača
obitelji Ivanišević) Lištun, Makarska. Of all the Baroque
buildings in Makarska, the Ivanišević Palace shows to the best
effect how the wealthiest citizens used to live. All in stone
with terracotta roofs, the palace has a galleried courtyard
at its centre. It‘s privately-owned and not open to the public.
The Tonoli Palace (Palača Tonoli) Obala kralja
Tomislava 16, Makarska. The Tonoli Palace was built in the
18th century by a Venetian doctor named Tonoli as the family
home. Today it houses Makarska‘s Town Museum, and you‘ll
also find the Tourist Association office here. Again, it‘s in the
local Baroque style, in stone with small shuttered windows
and a romantic balcony at the front.
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64 Makarska riviera
The Biokovo Mountains
Without those great grey mountains rising steeply from
the coast, the experience of being on the Makarska
shoreline would be much less of a thrill. That view is just
so spectacular: in some places the cliff rising above the
little seaside resorts is almost vertical and so close it feels
like the shoulder of a protective parent. In many senses,
the mountain has protected and sustained humans for
millennia, so Biokovo is pretty much the mother lode of
culture and general fabulousness in this part of Dalmatia.
Biokovo is not a single mountain but a range of mountains
that stretches from just above Brela almost to Igrane
in the south, about 25km, about half of the Makarska
Riviera. It‘s part of a larger system of mountains called
the Dinaric Alps, a 645 km long range that stretches along
the Adriatic from Slovenia in the north to Albania in the
south. The Dinaric Alps, as you might guess, are which is
itself part of that famous range so beloved of chocoholics.
The mountains are made of limestone deposited at the
time when this was a flat sea, before tectonic movements
sent the earth skywards. Limestone is a soft rock that
is easily moulded by water. This kind of landscape is
known as karst and is well known for having fascinating
formations including caves and sinkholes where rivers dive
underground. The highest peak of Biokovo, Sveti Jure, is
1762m high, the third highest peak in Croatia. Due to its
geomorphological, biological and cultural diversity, almost
all of the Biokovo range has been declared a Nature Park.
It is home to a wild variety of wildlife, including endemic and
endangered species. The best known is the Silvery Dwarf
Harebell Edraianthzs pumilio. For centuries the slopes of
Biokovo provided a home to people seeking shelter from
enemy attacks - hardly anyone lived by the sea. In the
20th century, the area became depopulated, meaning
that modern life has hardly touched it. Therefore, this is a
historical and cultural treasure trove. Lovers of architecture
will be enchanted by the ancient stone villages and
defences against Turkish attacks. Food buffs will find the
Makarska Tourist Board (Archives)
smells wafting from traditional-style taverns hard to resist.
So, while you‘re on the Makarska Riviera we beseech you,
don‘t be lulled into laziness by the sedutive sea. Take a
trip into the Biokovo mountains - you‘ll be astonished by
how much there is to see there. Apart from anything else,
the views over the coast and islands are astonishing.
The Biokovo Nature Park covers most of the mountain
range and has a number of information centres and
educational trails. Since it is a managed park, you are
required to buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarsa
Vrgorac road. You can drive up there, but the best way
to explore it is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple
of precautions: the terrain is rugged - wear strong
shoes or hiking boots. The summer heat and sun can
be overwhelming: set off at sunrise, and take a hat, sun
protection and plenty of water. Outside of the summer,
avoid setting off if wind or rain is forecast: the bura (north
wind) can reach hurricane force.
Presentation centres:
Podgora Selo - Stara Škola (the old school building)
Exhibition of photographs of the park, at the moment open
only for organised groups by prior arrangement by phone:
phone (+385-21) 62 61 36.
Gornja Brela Presentation Centre
Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park, QOpen
to visitors Mon-Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun 09:00-02:00.
Marin Kovačević Memorial House in the village of
Kotišina
Information on the Kotišina Botanical Gardens. QOpen
Mon-Sat 07:00-02:00, Sun 08:00-13:00.
The Kotišina Botanical Garden
This Botanical Garden, like the Malacological Museum in
Makarska, was founded by biologist Friar Jure Radić (1920-
1990), and is part of an educational trail he also created.
Set in 16.5 hectares, the Garden is a reserve for local plant
species as well as an archive of exotic plants. It has some
interesting rock formations such as caves, cliffs and the
Proslap waterfall which bursts through a narrow canyon
after a heavy fall of rain. There‘s a 17th century fortress, a
protected monument, and a chapel, St Anthony‘s (20th C).
Just 3km from Makarska and at an altitude of 350-500m
above sea level, this is a suitable destination for a good
but not overly demanding walk.
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Castles of Split Dalmatia County
Visitors to the Split region shouldn‘t just restrict themselves
to the beach. Not only is the Dalmatian hinterland one of
the most dramatically beautiful parts of Croatia, it also plays
host to a multitude of crumbling fortresses and hilltop
castles. Given the region‘s turbulent history - including
centuries of warfare between Croats, Ottoman Turks and
Venetians - it‘s no surprise that brooding battle-scarred
ruins form such a prominent part of the local landscape.
One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily
accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted
precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There‘s an
excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects
Split with the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and now an
outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the
road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress
and soak in the great views in every direction.There is a café
right below the fortress.
Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first
mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th
century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area
but never succeeding in taking the fortress.The Ottoman
Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking
Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally
evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you
will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying
the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow
mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland.
Between Split and Trogir, 20km to the west, lies a sequence
of seven small towns known collectively as “Kaštela“
(Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive
along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs
directing you to them (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Sućurac,
Kaštel Kambelovac, etc.). Most were constructed in the
16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or
the Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out
their interesting architectural features. All are accessible by
car. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Trogir, an island
town, has its own castle fortress, too, right on the waterfront.
Kamerlengo Citadel was built in the 15th century and has
been well restored. Trogir‘s Venetian heritage (the Venetians
held sway there for three and a half centuries starting in
1420) is clearly evident from the town‘s lovely architecture.
If you go 21km in the opposite direction (southwest) on
route 8 from Split you will reach Omiš, which is located at
the mouth of the Cetina River. There are the ruins of two
castle/fortresses above the town that have spectacular
views.The lower of the two, Mirabela, is accessible by about
300 steps from Šubić Street in the centre of town. There
is a gate about a quarter of the way up that is sometimes
inexplicably locked. Ask at the town‘s tourist office first and
they‘ll probably send someone to unlock it. From the top of
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Klis Fortress
Jelsa
Mirabela‘s tower keep there‘s a sweeping view of Omiš,
the river, the sea, and the steep sided mountains that form
the sides of the canyon. It‘s believed that the Kačić family,
feudal lords of Omiš during the 12th and 13th centuries, built
Mirabela in the early 1200s. Pirates used Mirabela as their
lair during medieval times. The Venetians acquired Omiš in
1444 and over time expanded and refortified the redoubt.
Fitness buffs can be rewarded with an even more panoramic
view by hiking from the center of Omiš to Starigrad (also
called “Fortica”), a fortress/castle about 500m above the
town. The hike takes about two hours on a marked trail,
which begins on the road to the village of Borak. The turn off
to Borak is on the south edge of the Omiš town center. You
can also drive part of the way up to Starigrad, making sure
to go straight (don‘t turn right) when you reach the fork in the
road. From that point it is a 45 minutes climb. Fortica was
built by another Croatian noble family, the Nelipićs, probably
in the 14th century. It was one of a series of coastal forts
expanded by the Venetians during their centuries-long
struggle against the Turks. Gun bastions and embrasures
are still clearly visible in the walls, the perfect spot for
imagining that you are a defender on the battlements! There
are plenty of good hotels and eateries in Omiš, which is a
major tourist center. It‘s a shame that most visitors never
venture beyond the beach.
From Omiš take the road on the south side of the Cetina
River 18km to reach Zadvarje. There is one good view after
another as this road winds through the canyon. There is a
fortress with the same name just beyond the water treatment
plant above Zadvarje. Unfortuately power lines above the ruin
somewhat mar the atmosphere, but it‘s still worth checking
out Zadvarje‘s massive walls. Built by the Venetians between
1478 and 1482, Zadvarje was captured and refortified by
the Turks in 1502. There is a myth that the ghost of Murat,
the Zadvarje Turkish bey who was bloodied by a local girl he
assaulted, roams the castle walls during full moon.
Our next stop on the county castle tour is Imotski, 38km
from Zadvarje by routes 39 and 60. Imotski is remote into
the Dalmatian hinterland, a place where locals think nothing
of stopping their car in the middle of street in town to chat
with their friends, not worrying about a trifling traffic jam
that might develop.
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66 split dalMatia County
Another distinctive feature of this hilltop town is its two
sinkhole lakes, the Blue Lake and the Red Lake. Sheer cliffs
tower 150m above the Blue Lake, which is just above the
Imotski town center. It takes about 10 minutes to climb up
the stone steps to Topana Castle, perched at the top of the
cliffs.There is a great view of the coastal mountains from the
ramparts of the castle, the location of which was probably
first used for defensive purposes by the Romans.
Topana is first mentioned in written records around 950.
From 1322 the castle fortress was under the ownership of
several Croatian-Bosnian noble families.The Turks conquered
Imotski in 1493, transforming it into an important seat of
local government and refortifying the castle. It wasn‘t until
1717 that the Venetians pushed the Turks out, but Imotski
continued to mark the border with the Ottoman Turkish
Empire. Battles continued for another decade, resulting in
substantial damage to the castle. It was reconstructed in the
early 19th century, by which time it no longer served a military
purpose. There are several hotels and restaurants in Imotski.
On the way from Zadvarje bonafide castle fanatics might want
to follow highway 62 to the hilltop town of Vrgorac, which is
very near to the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina. There is
a nicely restored castle above the town centre, accessible
via an unusually well marked trail in about 15 - 20 minutes.
Adriatic Photo Service
There‘s a wonderful view in every direction from the castle.
Only 10km north and west of Imotski on a secondary (but
paved) road is the village of Donji Proložac. Badnjevice
Castle/fortress is spectacularly situated on a rocky peak
above the village. First mentioned in written records from
the 12th century, it‘s hard to imagine how it could have
been built there, but it certainly commands a good view of
the surrounding region. Only the hardiest of climbers should
attempt to reach this ruin. There are no marked trails, and
probably the best alternative would be to enlist the help of
a local to guide you up the steep, rocky slope.
About 80km north and west from Imotski via route 60 and
then a turn off from route 220 is the small village of Čačvina.
It‘s easy to spot the castle ruin and a church at the top of a
hill above the village. It‘s an easy, 10 minutes ascent to the
castle. There are spectacular views in every direction from
Čačvina, which sits at an elevation of 707m. The Nelipčić
family built Čačvina in 1371.
The Turks overan this fortress in the mid 16th century, and
it was not until about 150 years later that the Venetians
and Croats evicted them. In ancient and medieval times
Čačvina sat at the crossroads of major trading routes, but
today it is very much off the beaten track. Visitors may not
be able to get an espresso there, but Čačvina‘s remoteness
is one of its charms.
The largest town of the Split Dalmatia County hinterland
is Sinj, which is only 20km northwest of Čačvina or 34km
north of Split via a well marked road. The castle fortress
above Sinj is worth a look. You can drive there. Like the rest
of Dalmatia, Sinj has had a very turbulent history. During
the century before and for several centuries after the birth
of Christ the Romans fought with several tribes in the area.
Sinj‘s fortifications are first found in written records in about
the year 950. It‘s believed the exsiting fortress was built in
the 14th century.
The Turks captured Sinj in 1536 and refortified the castle.
The Venetians pushed the Turks out in 1686, and the
following year a famous image of the Madonna known as
the Lady of Sinj (“Sinjska Gospa”) was returned to Sinj. In
August 1715 the Turks attempted to retake the Sinj fortress.
Although outnumbered, the inhabitants of Sinj defeated
the Turks after a week-long battle. The defendents were
convinced that the presence of the Madonna painting help
them to thwart their more powerful adversaries. The Feast
of the Assumption (Velika Gospa; August 15) is, therefore,
especially significant for the residents of Sinj, which has
several hotels and many restaurants. About 15km northwest
of Sinj lies the village and fortress of Potravlje (also known
as “Potravnik” or “Travnik”). It commands a stupendous view
of coastal mountains to the west, high peaks in Bosnia and
the valley occupied by 30km long Lake Peručko to the north.
To reach Potravlje you take Route 1 north from Sinj. After
about 10km you turn west (left) on a paved road; there is a
sign pointing the way to Satrić.
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68 split dalMatia County
After 5.3km you will see a pink house on the right and on
the left a line of cypress trees. Turn left at that point and
go about 500m, where you can park in the middle of the
village and walk up the hill to the castle ruins. There is no
discernable trail but it is not too difficult to bushwack through
the low scrub brush and grass. Like Čačvina, Potravlje is a
rustic but lovely spot.
Potravnik was probably constructed by the Nelipčić dukes
in the 14th century. It is first mentioned in written records
in 1372. The Turks attacked the fortress in 1522 and at
first were not successful in taking it. Only after plugging
the sources for the castle‘s water wells, thereby cutting
off the defendents‘ water supply, were they able to capture
it. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in the late 17th
century. Another 22km along route 1 is the town of Vrlika.
Prozor castle sits prominently above the town, which is at
the opposite end of Lake Peručko from Potravlje. Partially
restored, Prozor has an equally spectacular view of the lake
and mountains to the east and west. To reach the castle go
from the town church 1.5km up the road towards Maovica and
Drniš. There is a dirt road passable with four wheel drive or
a 20 - 25 minute walk up a not very steep hill to the castle.
The Hrvatinić family built Prozor Castle in the early 1400s. As
with other towns in the this area, the Ottoman Turks captured
the fortress in 1523 and held it until the Venetians expelled
them nearly 200 years later. The town witnessed an invasion
much more recently as well. During the Balkan Wars of the
early 1990s Vrlika was held by the so-called Republic of Serb
Krajina for four years. During Operation Storm the Croatian
Army pushed the Serbs out in August 1995.
The large Adriatic islands of Brač, Hvar and Vis also lie within
Split Dalmatia County, and there is no shortage of alluring
castles in those places, either. A restored fortress overlooks
Hvar Town and provides a nice view of the offshore string of
Pakleni Islands. You can drive up to the fortress or climb up in
a few minutes from the town center. There is an interesting
tower made of gigantic stone blocks (shown as “Tor” on
some maps) above the town of Jelsa. One marvels about
how those huge blocks could have
been raised to such a height and pointed so neatly so many
centuries ago. The tower is accessible in about 20 - 30
minutes via a marked trail ascending from a dirt road that
runs from the village of Humac (on route 116) to the tunnel
entrance. From the tower there is a breathtaking view of
Brač Island to the north. A fortress on the same ridge about
a kilometre to the east also is clearly visible. If you have
binoculars you may be able to spot the naturist beaches on
Jerolim and Stipanska islands off the coast. Brač, too, has
a number of castles and fortresses in its coastal villages
and interior. For details please see the article about Brač
activities in this issue of In Your Pocket.
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Islands
Šolta
Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to
have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis
courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from
Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special
places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of
life has been largely maintained to the present day. This
means that the principal industry on the island is fishing,
donkeys are still a viable form of transportation and the
locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors
as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that
the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in
Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of
life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits
of the island, not the least of which is the main product of
the island, fish. The island‘s fisherman can be seen leaving
in the morning and returning with the day‘s catch, which is
then prepared for the evening‘s meal and accompanied by
some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on
hand for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however,
man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need
a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to
offer, as well. The tranquil coves and beaches around the
island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even
windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through
the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island‘s other
principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere,
nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or
as a short stay. Either way, there‘s something for everyone.
Brač
Brač, the Croatian Adriatic‘s third largest island, offers
spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain
of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split,
retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town,
Supetar, is not very big.
You can reach Brač by
Jadrolinija car/passenger
ferry either from Makarska
to Sumartin on the
southeast tip of the island,
or from Split to Supetar,
which is on the northwest.
If you like to sunbathe or
swim, check out Croatia‘s
most famous beach,
Zlatni Rat (G o lden
Cape). It‘s a point jutting
out into the sea near the
town of Bol, on the south
side of the Brač. However,
this beach is liable to
be crowded during the
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summer, especially with younger people. It‘s also a popular
spot for windsurfing. If you‘d prefer a less frenetic bathing
experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay,
which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač‘s north
side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from
there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the
beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach,
you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located
on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač.
Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia
are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture
and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the
Middle Ages. Škrip‘s Museum of Brač contains many
ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including
a relief of Hercules.
Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač, you
could extend your activities from what‘s listed above to the
following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican
monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol. Its museum
has a collection of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as well
as a Tintoretto painting of the Madonna and Child dating
from 1563. An even more interesting monastery to visit,
especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca
(Pustinja Blaca), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the
Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon about
half way between the sea and the summit of Brač‘s highest
peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca indeed is a perfect place to hide.
You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins
near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down
from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank
of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that
track, which begins 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on
the Supetar to Bol road. If you don‘t have an SUV you run the
risk of ruining your vehicle‘s suspension. Both trails are well
marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours
for the round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be
rewarded with great views plus Blaca‘s ascetic architecture
and splendid isolation.
Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of
Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2
hours on a well marked trail from Bol.
Catacombes, Sutivan, Brač Island
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70 split dalMatia County
You can also drive there
on an asphalted road that
starts from a signed turn
off on the Supetar-Bol road
just east of the town of
Nerežišća. The views from
the peak are terrific. If
you like scuba diving and
snorkeling, there are dive
centers in Supetar and
Bol that rent equipment
and organize dive cruises.
It‘s easy to spend a day or
more enjoying the warm,
clear waters of the Croatian
Adriatic. If you are going
to be on Brač for a week
there‘s much more you
Ivan Rendić, La Pieta
can do. Land lubbers and
aquatic types alike can spend several pleasant days
exploring the attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying
to pronounce their names should prove interesting. These
include Sutivan, Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the
east side of the island; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća and
Povlja on the north side; and Selca and Sumartin on the
east. All of them have a medieval atmosphere in their old
quarters, with narrow, cobblestone alleys winding up from
the seafront; nearly all stone buildings with green shutters;
medieval fortress towers built for defense against pirates and
the Turks; and centuries old churches. The views offshore
are wonderful, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes and
restaurants from which to soak them up. Olive tree orchards
and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of Brač, and
there are many small-scale olive oil producers. You will see
lots of signs advertising fresh, extra virgin olive oil (ekstra
djevičansko maslinovo ulje) for sale. There are even agrotourism
offers for olive picking; check with a travel bureau
about where that is possible. Brač white marble has been
exported all over the world. It‘s claimed that Brač marble
was even used in the construction of the American White
House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local
houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the
island, and they are accessible - a tort lawyer‘s dream. There
are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon)
and Kopačina. They‘re located between Supetar and Donji
Humac. Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač
you wouldn‘t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend
many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach,
soaking up the scenery.
Hvar
You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to
Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to
Jelsa and Hvar city. If you‘re a little south of Split, you can
still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south
of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of
Hvar. If you‘re coming from the north, you can also get to
Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik
which makes a stop in Hvar city. See getting around section.
Things to see and do:
Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands
in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and
on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of
small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are
only two islands, Zečevo and Duga.
Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni
islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due
to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are
protected.
The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name
from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the
bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.The western side of
Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and small towns.
Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with
medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built
by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls,
located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view
of below. The prison dungeon inside the Španjol Fortress is
quite impressive and if you take a peek below, it‘s easy to
imagine the sounds of the prison guards bringing food to the
prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention
the despairing sounds of the the prisoners! Going around
Hvar, you‘ll encounter historical charm with the Renaissance
St Stephen‘s Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by local
masters Karlić and Pomenić and the centre of the old part of
town has a 15th century form. On the northern slope above
the square are the partially preserved inner city walls of the
noble Hvar palace. On the southern slope in the cemetery
is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule),
dated from the early 15th century. On the eastern side of
town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance
summer villa of Hanibal Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner
between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of
Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary
for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art
collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper.
Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić. Hvar
also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of
civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331.
Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar
galley. On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from
1612, one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned
by the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery
in Hvar is well known for it‘s craftsmanship of unique lace
made from agave fibres.
Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is one
of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within
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Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender,
heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant
experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar
presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of
lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you
the opportunity for a thorough exploration.
Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on
a route which passes alongside the island and today‘s ferry
port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in
Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here
is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early
Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan).
Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first
hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points
of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum.
It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the
Fields which was formed around a square and its current
look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries.
The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa.
If you set out on a journey into the interior of the island
not far from Jelsa, you‘ll come across the small villages of
Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirće, which will bewitch you with their
appearance and peacefulness.
Only 7km east of Jelsa, you‘ll find the abandoned village
of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and
stone and they‘re completely unique in their entirety of
rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave,
the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era,
5000-4000 B.C.
Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of
the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call
Vrboska ‚‘Little Venice‘‘ due to it‘s small bridges with which
it is connected. There is also a Fishing Museum which is
worth a look in as is the fort church of St Mary of Charity
from the 16th century. This fort church was built in defence
of the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the Baroque
church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide art treasure
attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano Vescelius,
Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano,
Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and the
filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini.On the northern part of the
island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Basina
beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches of Pokrivenik,
Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja. To head to the southern
side of the island you must pass through a natural tunnel
(hollowed out of the rock) beside a place called Pitve on the
southern side up to Ivan Dolac.
You‘ll come across a gorgeous view of the islands Šćedro,
Korčula and the Pelješac peninsula before exiting the
tunnel. Until recently the tunnel functioned via a telephone at
both ends. With a call you‘d know if there was a car waiting
to enter from the other end but now there is a traffic light in
place. The locals dug out the tunnel so they could get from
one side of the island to the other. When you pass the tunnel
you‘ll get to the southern side of the island which is beautiful
and on which vineyards grow abundant with the ‘Plavac
Mali‘ (Small Blue) grape, located in Sveta Nedelja, Zavala.
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On this southern side of the island you can bathe on the
Jagodna and Bojanić beaches which are situated between
Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov
Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Lučica beaches. On island‘s
eastern side lies the small port of Sućuraj which is also the
starting point of the mainland ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik
line). Sućuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest
and best preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and
now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the
old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the
sandy Česminica beach and Bilina on the northern side.
The island‘s mountains aren‘t very high, however, with their
coastal slopes and marvellous sea views they are ideal for
any hiker‘s aspirations. The possibility of sailing, mountain
hiking, trekking are promising as too for diving.
Hvar and the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in
these areas, the history of which stretches back far into the
past. Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties
‘Bogdanuša‘ and ‘Drenkuša‘ which can not be found
anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for
the cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali‘ due to its sunny hillsides
which give the wine its high quality.
Renowned wine estates include Plenković, whose cellars
provide the high quality wine ‘Zlatan Plavac‘ (Grand
Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate where you can find
Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali Barrique 2003),
the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the Carić estate
(Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić, Vujnović
and P.Z Svirče estates.
Summer 2012
71

72 split dalMatia County
Caught by the In Your Pocket team!
Vis
The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas
in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for
foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely
remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas
of indescribable beauty.
The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast
coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of
Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in
the east, Sušac.
Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its
fair distance from the mainland. However, it‘s an excellent
place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty,
or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms.
The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or
catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a
car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip
takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be
purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets
can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest
towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a
bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop,
on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the
bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For
those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus
connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split.
Things to see and do:
The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon
and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic
delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the
marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest
sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town
of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also,
don‘t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance
summer villas, Tito‘s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of
the ancient city.
Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia.
One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek
colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC.
The ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts
of the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and
you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological
Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress
“Gospina batarija‘ (Our Lady‘s Battery) also known for its
large collection of amphorae and more notably for its bronze
head of the Greek godess Artemis.
The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the
churches of Sv.Ciprijana (St Cyprian) and the Holy Spirit, the
Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the
sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja.
Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end of the
island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also
houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the
church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering a
spectacular view of below.The interior areas of Vis are worth
seeing, especially the township of Dragodid (complete with
picturesque stone huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža.
Dragodid is interesting because it is one of the rare preserved
villages which has conserved its exceptional form.
Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina
(Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja
(Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn‘t be the
marvel that it is.
And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and
enjoy a true marine experience!
It‘s worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the island
of Vis, for the island is known as the “island of sweetness”.
It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele), a fish
stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans (brudet),
young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina na gradelima),
artichokes with broad-beans and peas (artičoke sa bobom
i bižima), octopus in red wine (hobotnica u crnom vinu),
crispy little cakes which have a two month shelf-life due to
one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a Christmas cake (hjib)
which is prepared for guests all year round and contains
dried figs mixed with the essence of the grape and fennel
spirits. And, let‘s not forget the island‘s charming wines,
Viška Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the delicious and
most popular spirits on the island of Vis include flavours of
carob, rose, sage and fennel.
Surroundings
Omiš
Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croatia and Bosnia
and Herzegovina, the Cetina River winds a tortuous course
through the countryside until it finally emptying into the
Adriatic.The mouth of the river passes through an impressive
gorge near the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and
picturesque town that is the center of what has become
known as „the Omiš Riviera“. However, things were not always
so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety because of a band of
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pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled
the waters in the area in special boats called „arrows“, so
named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily
into the mouth of the river.
While it‘s true that today yachts are more likely to be seen
cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fasttraveling
pirate ships, there‘s still plenty of adventure to be
had in Omiš. The mountainous areas around the town make
for great hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline
blue and the history of the town can be explored in the
remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of
Omiš used to defend the town against attacks from Turkish
invaders), churches and other structures dating back as far
as the 13th century. And when you‘re finished exploring the
natural beauty of Omiš and it‘s history, the town‘s central
location makes it a perfect starting point for the rest of your
Dalmatian coast adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of
terrorizing the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš. Trogir
Adriatic Photo Service
Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance
away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses
incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of
which have been built upon by a progression of generations
during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir‘s
old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque
and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with
modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating
amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.
Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the
island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until
well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished
by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal
Croatian towns, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of
victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of
subservience to outside governments, with the town finally
coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.
Solin
The First Communion, Omiš
Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres
outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and
the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman
settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of
its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace
of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now,
erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days
there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity‘s early
history. According to the Bible, Paul‘s student Titus traveled
to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy
and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted
such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town‘s
role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an
archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of
„Croatia‘s Pompeii“.
Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos
factories as its principal industries, which did little to
enhance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations
exposing the remains of the former Roman town located
nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town
a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the
possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two
thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism,
Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving
its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been
carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas
that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if
you‘re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In
the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir
and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored
there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in the
country that is just slightly off the beaten path.
Adriatic Photo Service
While the former rulers of the region were interested in
Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are
interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the
city‘s old town. Of particular importance are the churches
and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke‘s
palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps
most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence
and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and
Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral
in 1240. The cultural and historical significance of the town
and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO
(the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural
Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world
heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir‘s
history. While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture
and fishing, this new era of the town‘s development will
almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia‘s coast
becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists
from around the world.
Summer 2012
73

74 index
Aci Grašo 22
Adria 21
Adriana 18
Adriana 22
Agroresort Bračka Perla 20
Apetit 22
Archeological Museum (Arheološki
muzej) 30
Art 17
Art&čok 23
As 18
Atrium 17
Bellevue 18
Bifora 27
Biševo 21
Bistro Black Cat 22
Bluesun Hotel Borak 20
Boban 22
Bobis-Riva 24
Bota Šare 23
Caffe Gallery Ave 26
Cardo 22
City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) 30
Consul 18
Croatia 20
Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski
pomorski muzej) 30
Dalmina 17
Delta 23
Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanova
palača) 28
Dujam 18
Duje 22
Element bar 27
Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija
Emanuel Vidović) 31
Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski
muzej) 30
Favola 26
Fife 23
Split In Your Pocket
Fish Market (Ribarnica) 28
Gaga 26
Galerija 24
Galija 24
Ghetto 27
Globo 17
Green Market (Pazar) 28
Grgur Ninski 33
Gušt 24
Hemingway 27
Hvaranin 24
Il posto 22
Issa 21
Jugo 23
Jungla 27
Kadena 22
Kalafatić 26
Kantun Paulina 23
Kavana Procaffe 26
Kibela 24
Kocka 27
Kod Joze 24
Konoba Leut 24
Konoba Varoš 25
Kuća sladoleda Carmen 24
La Maison de Sarah 24
Le Meridien 21
Le Monde 23
Lučica 25
Lvxor 26
Makrovega 25
Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) 28
Marmont 17
Marmontova Street (Marmontova
ulica) 33
Maslina 24
Mc Donald‘s 23
Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine
Kaštelet 31
More 18
Museum of Croatian Archeological
Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih
arheoloških spomenika) 31
Narodni (People‘s) Square (Narodni
trg - Pjaca) 34
Noštromo 23
O‘Hara 27
Obojena Svjetlost 27
Oštarija u Viđakovi 25
Palača Dešković 20
Park 17
Pašike 21
Pastura 20
Peristil 18
Pimpinella 25
Po Bota 26
Poljud Stadium 34
Posejdon 23
President 17
Prokurative (Trg Republike) 33
Puls2 27
Red room 27
Riva 28
Riva 21
Rizzo 23
Saint Dominic‘s Church and
Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv.
Dominika) 32
San Antonio 21
Šetač 26
Silver Central 20
Silver Gate 20
Slavija 18
Šperun 25
Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina)
32
Split Hostel Booze and Snooze 20
St Riva 27
Stelon 23
Teak caffe 26
Teraca Bamba 26
Terra Antika 25
The Church of Our Lady of the Bell
tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika) 32
The Church of Saint Francis
(Samostanska crkva sv. Frane) 32
The Church of Saint Martin (Golden
gate) (Crkvica sv. Martina) 32
The Franciscan Church and
Monastery of the Assumption of the
Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka
crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene
Djevice Marije) 32
The Palace 21
The Peristyle and The Cathedral of
St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv.
Dujma) 30
The Saint Clara Monastery and
Church (Samostan i Crkva sv. Klare)
33
The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica
splitske katedrale) 32
Tonik Juicy Bar 26
Tradicija 24
Vanilla 27
Veli Varoš 32
Velo misto No 1 24
Vestibul Palace 17
Vidilica 26
Voćni trg (Fruit Square) (Trg braće
Radića) 34
Waterman Svpetrvs Resort 20
Žbirac 26
Zlatna ribica 25
Zlatna vrata 24
Zoološki vrt 34
Zrno zdravog života 25
split.inyourpocket.com

A. Cesarca C-3
Ante Petravića E-1/F-1
Antuna Branka Šimića E-3
Arapova C-2, H-2
Babina C-3, H-3
Bakotićeva C-2
Ban Mladenova C-3/D-3, H-2
Ban Berislavićeva C-2
Bana Josipa Jelačića I-2
Barakovićeva E-3
Barešićeva F-2/G-2
Barićeva H-2
Bartola Kašića C-3
Begovićeva C-3
Benkovačka E-2
Bernarda Vukasa E-2
Bihaćka D-2, J-1
Bijankinijeva D-3, K-3
Bilanova H-2
Bilice I G-1
Bilice II G-1
Biogradska G-3
Biokovska D-2, K-1
Biserova C-2/D-2, I-1
Bjelovarska E-2
KAMIK
PESCARA
Blatine E-3
Blaža Trogiranina B-3
Bleiburških žrtava D-2
Boktuljin put E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2
Bolska D-2, K-1
Borčićeva C-3, H-2
Bosanska I-2
Botićevo šetalište C-3
Bože Peričića E-3
Bračka F-3
BračkaUvala Zenta E-3
Brajevića prilaz H-3
Branimirova obala C-3, H-3
Bregovita D-3
Bribirska D-2, J-1
Brune Bušića E-2
Bubalova K-3
Bukovčeva D-3
Bulićeva J-2
Buvnina I-2
Catanijin put C-3
Cesta mira F-2
Cosmijeva I-2
Cvjetna E-3
Čiovska B-3
street register
Vrlika
Peručko j.
1251
1508
Svilaja
Lećevica
Dicmo
Grab
675
Boraja
779
Klis
Gardun
Dugopolje Trilj
Čaporice
Bisko
Marina
Trogir
D. Seget
Kaštela Solin
Cista Provo
1319
D. Okrug G. Slatine Stobreč
Sv. Jure
Lovreć
Donji Proložac
DRVENIK MALI
ČIOVO SPLIT Podstrana
Šestanovac Prološko blato
V. Drvenik Splitski kanal Dugi Rat
Omiš
Krivodol Imotski
DRVENIK VELI
Kamenmost
Rogač
Zmijavci
Nečujam Supetar
Maslinica Grohote Stomorska
Postira
Zagvozd
Sutivan
Brela
ŠOLTA
Baška Voda 1762
BRAČ Pučišća Sv. Jure
Milna
Nerežišća
Povlja
Makarska
Selca Sumartin
Tučepi
ZAGREB
RIJEKA
ZADAR
B i š e v s k i k a n a l
S p l i t s k a v r a t a
V i š k i k a n a l
S V I L A J A
K O Z J A K
J A D R A N S K O M O R E
ANCONA
Vis
Komiža
BIŠEVO
Rijeka
Zagreb
TRIESTE, RIJEKA
VIS
ZAGREB, KNIN
KNIN
PALAGRUŽA
D I N A R A
Čulića dvori D-2/D-3, J-2
Ćiril-Metodova D-2, I-2
Dinarska E-2
Dinka Šimunovića F-3
Dioklecijanova J-2
Dobrić I-2
Dobrilina E-3/F-3
Domaldova I-2
Dominisova J-2
Domovinskog rata E-2/F-2, J-1
Doverska F-3/G-3
Drage Ivaniševića E-2
Dragovode G-2
Dražanac C-3, H-3
Drniška E-1/F-1
Drvenička B-3
Držićeva D-2
DržićevaK-1/K-2
Dubrovačka D-2/E-2
Dumanića K-3
Duplančića dvori K-2/K-3
Duvanjska D-3
Fra Bonina C-2
Fra Grge Martića E-2
Fra Luje Maruna K-2
Franje Račkog D-2, K-1
Gajeva C-2, H-1
Getaldićeva F-2
Glagoljaška D-3, K-2
Gorička D-2, J-1/K-1
Gorski put F-1/F-2/G-1
Gospinica E-3
Grada Antofagaste C-2
Gradišćanskih Hrvata F-1
Grge Novaka E-2
Gundulićeva D-2
Harambašićeva C-2, H-1
Hektorovićeva E-3
Hercegovačka E-1
Hrvatske mornarice C-2/D-2
Hrvatskih iseljenika D-2
Hrvojeva D-3, J-2/J-3
Hvarska D-3, K-3
I. G. Kovačića D-3
Ilićev prolaz I-2
Iločka E-2
Imotska F-1
Ispod Sv. Lovre G-3
Istarska D-2, J-1/J-2/K-1
Ivana Pl. Zajca E-3/F-3
split.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
D. Muć
Hrvace
Sinj
Cetina
1011
M O S O R
Cetina
C e t i n a
B r a č k i k a n a l
H v a r s k i k a n a l
Bol
HVAR
Otok
Hvar
Stari Grad Vrboska
Palmižana
Jelsa
DUBROVNIK
LUKAVCI ŠĆEDRO
KAMEŠNICA
LIVNO
TOMISLAVGRAD
B I O K O V O
Podgora
Igrane
Živogošće
Drvenik
Sućuraj
MEĐUGORJE
Vrgorac
Gradac
DUBROVNIK
75

76 street register
Ivana Raosa F-1
Jadranska D-3
Jakova Gotovca F-2
Janjevska F-2/G-2
Jerina H-2
Jerolima Kavanjina I-1
Jesenička K-3
Jobova C-2
Kačićeva D-2, I-1
Kamenita C-2, H-1/H-2
Kapićeva E-3
Karamanova C-2
Karlovačka E-2
Kaštelanova E-3
Kaštelanska C-2
Katalinićev prilaz D-3
Kijevska F-2
Klaićeva poljana I-2
Klarina D-3, K-3
Kliška D-2
Kliška J-1
Kneza Lj. Posavskog D-2
Kneza Mislava D-3, K-2
Kneza Višeslava D-2/D-3, K-2
Kninska D-2, I-2
Kocunarski prilaz E-2/F-2
Kolombatićevo šetalište B-2/C-2/C-3
Komulovića put D-1/D-2/E-1/E-2
Kopilica E-1
Kotorska G-3
Kozjačka C-2, H-1/H-2
Kragićeva H-1
Kraj Zlatnih Vrata J-2
Kralja Stjepana Držislava G-2/G-3
Kralja Tomislava D-2, I-2/J-2
Kralja Zvonimira D-3/E-3, J-3
Kranjčevićeva E-3
Krbavska F-2
Krešimirova J-2
Križanićeva E-2
Križine F-3
Krležina E-2
Kroz smrdečac F-3
Krste Odaka E-3
Krstulovića dvori J-1/J-2
Kruševića gumno J-1
Kukočeva K-3
Kukuljevićeva E-2
Kumičićeva E-1
Adriatic photo service
Kupreška F-1
Kuzmanićeva K-3
Kuzmića F-1, K-3
Kvaternikova D-2
Laginjina E-2
Lazarica E-3
Lička F-1
Livanjska D-2, J-1
Lovački put G-2
Lovretska D-2
Lovrićeve skale E-3
Lučica C-2
Lučićeva D-2, F-3
Ljubuška F-1
Makarska G-3
Mandalinski put C-2
Manđerova
Manuška poljana J-1
Marangunićevo šetalište A-3
Marasovića C-3, H-3
Marjanski put B-3
Marjanski tunel C-3
Marmontova D-2, I-2/J-1
Marulićeva J-2
Matice Hrvatske E-2/E-3/F-2
Matije Gupca D-3
Matije Ivanića E-2
Matoševa C-2, H-1
Matošića D-2, I-2
Mažuranićevo šetalište D-2
Mediteranski put C-1
Mejaši I G-2
Mejaši II G-2
Mihanovićeva B-3/C-3
Mile Gojsalića D-3
Milićeva C-2/C-3, H-2
Mišina F-2
Mitnička E-3
Moliških Hrvata F-3
Mosećka E-2/F-2
Mosorska D-3, K-3
Mostarska F-1
Mostine G-1
Mrčelina I-2
Na Križice E-3
Na Toć J-3
Narodni trg D-3, I-2
Nazorova C-2/C-3, H-1
Nelipćeva D-3, I-2
Nepotova D-3
Neslanovac F-1
Nigerova I-2
Ninska F-2
Nodilova D-2, I-2/J-2
Njegoševa C-3
Obala Hrvatskoga narodnoga
preporoda D-3, I-2/I-3
Obala Kneza Domagoja D-3, J-3
Obala Lazareta I-3/J-3
Obrov D-3, I-2
Odeska G-3
Omiška D-3, K-3
Osječka E-2/E-3
Ostravska G-2
Ozaljska F-2/G-2
Palmina C-3, H-2/H-3
Palmotićeva D-3/E-3
Papalićeva J-2
Papandopulova F-3
Pavla R. Vitezovića F-2
Pazinska F-2
Penića H-2
Perića C-3
Perišićeva C-3, H-2
Perivoj Ane Roje F-2
Pervanova K-3
Petra Kružića I-2
Petrićeva K-2/K-3
Petrinjska E-2
Petrova D-3, J-3/K-3
Pistura I-2
Plančićeva C-2
Plinarska C-2, H-1
Plitvička E-1
Pod Kosom C-3
Podgorska C-2, H-1
Podrum J-2/J-3
Pojišanska D-3, K-3
Poljička cesta E-3/F-3
Poljudsko šetalište C-1
Popovićeva I-2
Porinova D-2, I-1
Požeška E-2
Pujanke F-2
Puntarska C-2
Pupačićeva E-3
Put Brda F-1
Put Brodarice D-2
Put Dragovoda G-2
Put Duja E-1
Put Firula E-3
Put Glavičina D-2
Put iza nove bolnice E-3
Put Meja C-3
Put Mostina G-1
Put Pazdigrada G-3
Put Plokita D-2
Put Ravnih Njiva F-1
Put Sjeverne Luke F-1
Put Skalica C-2/D-2
Put Smokvice F-1
Put Supavla D-1
Put Sv. Lovre G-2/G-3
Put Trstenika F-3
Put Žnjana F-3/G-3
R. Boškovića E-3/F-3
R. Katalinića Jeretova F-2
Radmilovića C-2, H-1
Radnička E-2
Radovanova D-3, J-3
Radunica D-3, J-2
Ramska E-1
Reića C-3, H-2
Reljkovićeva D-2, K-2
Rendićeva C-2
Riječka J-1
Rodrigina I-2/J-2
Rokova D-3, J-2/K-2
Rooseweltova E-3
Sarajevska F-1
Savska D-2/E-2
Senjska C-3, H-2
Severova D-3, J-3
Sinovčića H-2
Sinjska D-2, J-1
Siriščevića H-2/H-3
Skradinska G-3
Slavićeva C-2, J-1
Slavonska E-2
Smiljanićeva D-2, K-2
Solinska F-1/G-1
Solurat C-3, H-3
Spinčićeva E-3
Spinutska C-2
Sredmanuška J-2
Stagnja H-2
Starčevićeva D-2
Stari Pazar D-3, J-3
Stepinčeva E-2
Stinice E-1
Stoci G-1
Stonska G-3
Studinova F-2
Sućidar E-2
Sukoišanska D-2
Supilova B-3
Sustipanski put C-3
Sutroičin put C-1/D-1
Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-2
Svačićeva D-2, I-1
Svetog Križa C-2/C-3/D-2/D-3, H-2
Svilajska E-2
Š. Bačvice D-3
Šegvićeva J-3/K-3
Šenoina C-3, H-2
Šetalište BeneGunjačina B-2
Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića A-3
Šetalište Marina Tartaglie A-2/B-
2/C-2
Šibenska E-2
Šižgorićeva E-2/E-3
Škrape E-3
Šoltanska F-3
Šopova G-2
Šperun C-3, H-2
Šubićeva I-2
Table D-2
Teslina C-2
Težački put G-2
Tijardovićeva F-2
Tolstojeva D-2/D-3, J-2/K-1
Tomića Stine H-2
Tončićeva D-2/D-3, I-2
Trg Braće Radić I-2
Trg Gaje Bulata I-1
Trg Republike C-3/D-3, I-2
Triljska F-1
Trogirska D-2/D-3, I-2
Trondheimska F-2/F-3
Trpimirova D-3, J-3
Trstenik F-3
Tršćanska D-2
Trumbićeva obala C-3, H-3
Trumbučac J-3/K-3
Ulica Slobode D-2
Uskočka E-3
Uvala Baluni C-3
V. Krstulovića E-3
V. Lisinskog C-2/C-3
Valpovačka E-2
Varaždinska E-2
Velebitska D-2/E-2
Vesanovića K-3
Vetranićeva C-3
Vidilica D-3
Vijugasta H-1
Viktora Vide G-2
Vinka Draganje E-2
Vinkovačka E-2
Vinodolska F-2
Viskotina K-3
Visoka F-2
Viška D-3
Vjekoslava Paraća E-2
Vladimira Gortana H-2
Vrančićeva E-2
Vranjički put E-1/F-1
Vrgoračka G-2
Vrh Kmana E-2
Vrh Lučac D-3, K-3
Vrh Visoke F-2
Vrlička F-1
Vrzov Dolac D-3, K-2/K-3
Vukasovićeva D-2, J-2
Vukovarska D-2/E-2, K-1
Washingtonova D-2, K-1
Zadarska G-1, I-2
Zagorski put F-1/F-2/G-21
Zagrebačka D-2, J-2/J-3
Zbora narodne garde G-1/G-2
Zlodrina poljana D-3, J-3
Zoranićeva D-2, I-1
Zrinsko-Frankopanska C-2
Zupina F-2
Zvizdina J-3
Žmovnička D-3/E-3
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