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Bring 3 c of water <strong>to</strong> a boil; peel eggpl<strong>an</strong>t<br />

<strong>an</strong>d slice <strong>to</strong> ½" slices, put in the water, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

boil 10 minutes. Remove, let drain. Cut up<br />

meat <strong>to</strong> bite-sized pieces, aprox ½" cubes, put<br />

in pot with salt <strong>an</strong>d water, bring <strong>to</strong> a boil <strong>an</strong>d<br />

boil over moderate heat uncovered until the<br />

liquid is mostly gone, about 35 minutes. Wash<br />

leek thoroughly <strong>to</strong> get the dirt out from under<br />

the leaves, then chop leek <strong>an</strong>d onion. When<br />

the meat has been cooking for 35 minutes, add<br />

onion, leek, seasonings <strong>an</strong>d eggpl<strong>an</strong>t; cover,<br />

cook over low heat <strong>an</strong>other 25 minutes. Add<br />

yogurt <strong>an</strong>d crushed garlic (from a garlic<br />

press). Stir <strong>to</strong>gether. Sprinkle dried mint over<br />

the pot; turn heat down low, leave covered<br />

<strong>an</strong>other half hour or so (we are <strong>to</strong>ld that the<br />

phrase tr<strong>an</strong>slated "<strong>an</strong> hour" actually me<strong>an</strong>s "a<br />

while").<br />

Madira<br />

al-Baghdadi p. 41<br />

Cut fat meat in<strong>to</strong> middling pieces with the<br />

tail; if chickens are used, quarter them. Put in the<br />

saucep<strong>an</strong> with a little salt, <strong>an</strong>d cover with water:<br />

boil, removing the scum. When almost cooked take<br />

large onions <strong>an</strong>d leeks, peel, cut off the tails, wash<br />

in salt <strong>an</strong>d water, dry <strong>an</strong>d put in<strong>to</strong> the pot. Add<br />

dry cori<strong>an</strong>der, cummin, mastic <strong>an</strong>d cinnamon,<br />

ground fine. When cooked <strong>an</strong>d the juices are dried<br />

up, so that only the oil remains, ladle out in<strong>to</strong> a<br />

large bowl. Take Persi<strong>an</strong> milk, put in the<br />

saucep<strong>an</strong>, add salted lemon <strong>an</strong>d fresh mint. Leave<br />

<strong>to</strong> boil: then take off the fire, stirring. When the<br />

boiling has subsided, put back the meat <strong>an</strong>d<br />

herbs. Cover the saucep<strong>an</strong>, wipe its sides, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

leave <strong>to</strong> settle over the fire [i.e. at a low heat], then<br />

remove.<br />

3 ½ lb chicken or ⅛- t mastic<br />

2 ½ lb boneless lamb ½ T cinnamon<br />

1 T salt 4 c yogurt<br />

2 leeks ½ lemon<br />

4 medium onions 1 T salt<br />

1 t ground cori<strong>an</strong>der ½ c fresh mint<br />

1 t cumin<br />

Chicken version: Put chicken in a pot with<br />

1 T salt <strong>an</strong>d enough water <strong>to</strong> cover <strong>an</strong>d cook<br />

about 30 minutes. If you w<strong>an</strong>t <strong>to</strong> serve it<br />

90<br />

boned (not specified in the recipe, but it<br />

makes it easier <strong>to</strong> cook <strong>an</strong>d <strong>to</strong> eat–we have<br />

done it both ways), remove it from the water,<br />

let cool enough <strong>to</strong> h<strong>an</strong>dle, bone, <strong>an</strong>d put the<br />

meat back in the pot. Add leeks, onions <strong>an</strong>d<br />

spices. Cook away the rest of the water,<br />

remove meat <strong>an</strong>d vegetables, <strong>an</strong>d add yogurt,<br />

lemon, <strong>an</strong>other T salt <strong>an</strong>d mint; mint is<br />

chopped <strong>an</strong>d lemon is quartered <strong>an</strong>d each<br />

quarter sliced in<strong>to</strong> two or three times with a<br />

knife. Let come <strong>to</strong> a simmer <strong>an</strong>d put back the<br />

meat <strong>an</strong>d vegetables. Heat through, not letting<br />

it boil, <strong>an</strong>d serve. Use proportionately less<br />

water if you exp<strong>an</strong>d the recipe subst<strong>an</strong>tially.<br />

We have a recipe for salted lemon in a<br />

modern North Afric<strong>an</strong> cookbook <strong>an</strong>d pl<strong>an</strong> <strong>to</strong><br />

try using that next time.<br />

Bur<strong>an</strong><br />

al-Baghdadi p. 191 (Good)<br />

Take eggpl<strong>an</strong>t, <strong>an</strong>d boil lightly in water <strong>an</strong>d<br />

salt, then take out <strong>an</strong>d dry for <strong>an</strong> hour. Fry this<br />

in fresh sesame-oil until cooked: peel, put in<strong>to</strong> a<br />

dish or a large cup, <strong>an</strong>d beat well with a ladle,<br />

until it becomes like kabis. Add a little salt <strong>an</strong>d<br />

dry cori<strong>an</strong>der. Take some Persi<strong>an</strong> milk, mix in<br />

garlic, pour over the eggpl<strong>an</strong>t, <strong>an</strong>d mix <strong>to</strong>gether<br />

well. Take red meat, mince fine, make in<strong>to</strong> small<br />

cabobs, <strong>an</strong>d melting fresh tail, throw the meat<br />

in<strong>to</strong> it, stirring until browned. Then cover with<br />

water, <strong>an</strong>d stew until the water has evaporated<br />

<strong>an</strong>d only the oils remain. Pour on <strong>to</strong>p of this the<br />

eggpl<strong>an</strong>t, sprinkle with fine-ground cumin <strong>an</strong>d<br />

cinnamon, <strong>an</strong>d serve.<br />

1 lb eggpl<strong>an</strong>t 2 cloves garlic<br />

1 lb ground lamb 1 c yogurt<br />

3 T sesame oil ½ t cumin<br />

½ t salt 1 t cinnamon<br />

¼ t cori<strong>an</strong>der<br />

Cut eggpl<strong>an</strong>ts in thick slices<br />

(approximately 1 ½"), put in boiling salted<br />

water (6 c water + 6 T salt) for 7 minutes.<br />

Remove, let st<strong>an</strong>d 1 hour. Make lamb in<strong>to</strong> 30-<br />

40 small meatballs (add cinnamon etc. if you<br />

wish). Fry in melted lamb fat (“tail,” p. 4).<br />

When browned, cover with water <strong>an</strong>d simmer<br />

until only the oil is left. Then fry eggpl<strong>an</strong>t in

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