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Islamic Dishes: Middle East <strong>an</strong>d al-<br />

<strong>And</strong>alus<br />

Bread<br />

Making Bread of Abu Hamza<br />

al-Warraq p. 123<br />

75<br />

Use as much as needed of fine samidh flour<br />

(high in starch <strong>an</strong>d br<strong>an</strong> free). This bread is dry.<br />

The dough is made similar <strong>to</strong> that of<br />

barazidhaj, except that this bread is a little<br />

thinner <strong>an</strong>d smaller, it is pricked a lot with<br />

feathers [before baking], <strong>an</strong>d neither buraq<br />

(bakers' borax) nor <strong>an</strong>y sweetening ingredients<br />

are used in making it. <strong>How</strong>ever, you need <strong>to</strong><br />

knead in<strong>to</strong> it (olive oil from unripe olives), the<br />

amount of which depends on how much oily you<br />

w<strong>an</strong>t it <strong>to</strong> be. Moreover, after you stick them <strong>to</strong><br />

the inside wall of the t<strong>an</strong>nur <strong>an</strong>d they are fully<br />

baked, take them out <strong>an</strong>d stack them at the <strong>to</strong>p of<br />

the oven. Keep them there until they are<br />

completely dry. S<strong>to</strong>re them in wicker baskets <strong>an</strong>d<br />

use them as needed.<br />

Barazidhaj: Take 1 makkūk [7½ pounds] good<br />

quality, pure flour, <strong>an</strong>d mix with it 2 uqiyas<br />

yeast, <strong>an</strong>d 20 dirhams salt <strong>an</strong>d (bakers' borax).<br />

Mix them in<strong>to</strong> dough [by adding water] <strong>an</strong>d<br />

knead vigorously. Cover it <strong>an</strong>d let it ferment.<br />

Divide dough in<strong>to</strong> small portions, the weight<br />

of each should be 1 Lev<strong>an</strong>tine uqiya (1 ½ ounces),<br />

brush each portion with 2 dirhams (olive oil from<br />

unripe olives), <strong>an</strong>d flatten it on a wooden board <strong>to</strong><br />

medium thinness. Prick the breads with feathers,<br />

but not much, <strong>an</strong>d cover them with a dry piece of<br />

cloth.<br />

(One fifth of the recipe)<br />

3 ⅓ c semolina 1 ½ c water<br />

1 T sourdough 1 ½ t salt<br />

3 T olive oil additional 4 T olive oil<br />

Knead all ingredients except the additional<br />

oil <strong>to</strong>gether, let rise overnight, divide in<strong>to</strong> 1 oz<br />

portions (about 40 of them), flour the<br />

portions. Press flat <strong>to</strong> a thickness of ⅛ <strong>to</strong> ¼",<br />

prick all over with a feather (I used a wooden<br />

skewer). Brush with olive oil—about 4 T for<br />

the whole batch. Bake at 350° for 15-20<br />

minutes—longer the thicker they are. Take<br />

out. Turn off the oven, open the door <strong>to</strong> let it<br />

cool a little, then put the loaves back in on the<br />

oven rack, dry for half <strong>an</strong> hour at about 150-<br />

200°.<br />

A Recipe for Ka'k Made for Abu 'Ata Sahl<br />

bin Salim al-Katib<br />

al-Warraq pp. 123-4<br />

Take 1 kerylaja (2 ½ pounds) or 1 makkūk (7<br />

½ pounds) fine samith flour. Make it in<strong>to</strong> dough<br />

using 100 dirham ground sesame seeds that have<br />

not been extracted of their oil (i.e. tahini), 1<br />

uqiyya almond oil, <strong>an</strong>d 2 dirhams salt. For each<br />

makkūk add 2 uqiyyas white sugar <strong>an</strong>d 3<br />

dirhams saffron. Knead the mixture with 10<br />

dirhams yeast [<strong>an</strong>d some water].<br />

When dough is fully fermented, rub it with a<br />

little fat <strong>an</strong>d rose water beaten <strong>to</strong>gether. Roll it<br />

out on a board in<strong>to</strong> a square <strong>an</strong>d cut it out in<strong>to</strong><br />

small squares. Bake them in the t<strong>an</strong>nur by<br />

sticking them [in<strong>to</strong> the inner wall]. When done,<br />

take them out <strong>an</strong>d leave them at the <strong>to</strong>p of the<br />

t<strong>an</strong>nur for a short while <strong>to</strong> dry out, God willing.<br />

(One fifth of the recipe)<br />

3 ⅓ c semolina .3 g saffron= (150 threads)<br />

2 ounces tahini t sourdough<br />

1 t+ almond oil 1 ½ c water<br />

t t salt T olive oil<br />

sc<strong>an</strong>t T sugar T rose water<br />

Combine all ingredients except oil <strong>an</strong>d<br />

rose water <strong>an</strong>d knead it smooth. Leave<br />

overnight <strong>to</strong> rise. Knead in oil (or <strong>an</strong>imal fat)<br />

<strong>an</strong>d rose water. Roll out about ¼" thick, cut<br />

in<strong>to</strong> squares 1.5"-2" on a side, put on a baking<br />

s<strong>to</strong>ne in a 400 degree oven, bake about 20-30<br />

minutes until they begin <strong>to</strong> get brown. They<br />

taste very strongly of saffron, which some like<br />

<strong>an</strong>d some do not.<br />

Loaf Kneaded with Butter<br />

<strong>And</strong>alusi<strong>an</strong> p. A-23<br />

Take three ratls of white flour <strong>an</strong>d knead it<br />

with a ratl of butter <strong>an</strong>d when the mixing is<br />

complete, leave it <strong>to</strong> rise <strong>an</strong>d make bread from it;<br />

send it <strong>to</strong> the oven in a dish <strong>an</strong>d when it has<br />

cooked, turn it on the other side in <strong>an</strong>other dish<br />

<strong>an</strong>d return it <strong>to</strong> the oven. When it is thoroughly<br />

cooked, take it out of the oven, then cover it a<br />

while <strong>an</strong>d present it.

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