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13<br />

Caboges<br />

Two Fifteenth Century p. 6 (Good–<strong>an</strong>d easy)<br />

Take fayre caboges, <strong>an</strong> cutte hem, <strong>an</strong> pike<br />

hem clene <strong>an</strong>d clene washe hem, <strong>an</strong> parboyle hem<br />

in fayre water, <strong>an</strong> th<strong>an</strong>ne presse hem on a fayre<br />

bord; <strong>an</strong> th<strong>an</strong> choppe hem, <strong>an</strong>d caste hem in a<br />

fayre pot with goode fresshe broth, <strong>an</strong> wyth merybonys,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d let it boyle: th<strong>an</strong>ne grate fayre brede<br />

<strong>an</strong>d caste ther-<strong>to</strong>, <strong>an</strong> caste ther-<strong>to</strong> Safron <strong>an</strong> salt;<br />

or ellys take gode grwel y-mad of freys flesshe, ydraw<br />

thorw a straynour, <strong>an</strong>d caste ther-<strong>to</strong>. An<br />

wh<strong>an</strong> thou seruyst yt inne, knocke owt the marw<br />

of the bonys, <strong>an</strong> ley the marwe ij gobettys or iij in<br />

a dysshe, as the semyth best, <strong>an</strong>d serue forth.<br />

1 medium head cabbage 6 threads saffron<br />

4 c beef broth 1 T salt<br />

4 lb marrow bones ~ 2 c breadcrumbs<br />

Wash cabbage. Cut it in fourths. Parboil it<br />

(i.e. dump in<strong>to</strong> boiling water, leave there a<br />

few minutes). Drain. Chop. Squeeze out the<br />

water. Put it in a pot with beef broth <strong>an</strong>d<br />

marrow bones. Simmer until soft, stirring<br />

often enough <strong>to</strong> keep it from sticking (about<br />

20 minutes). Add saffron, salt, enough bread<br />

crumbs <strong>to</strong> make it very thick. Simmer ten<br />

minutes more. Serve.<br />

Cress in Lent with <strong>Milk</strong> of <strong>Almond</strong>s<br />

Menagier p. M14<br />

Take your cress <strong>an</strong>d parboil it with a h<strong>an</strong>dful<br />

of chopped beet leaves, <strong>an</strong>d fry them in oil, then<br />

put <strong>to</strong> boil in milk of almonds; <strong>an</strong>d when it is not<br />

Lent, fry in lard <strong>an</strong>d butter until cooked, then<br />

moisten with meat s<strong>to</strong>ck; or with cheese, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

adjust it carefully, for it will brown. Anyway, if<br />

you add parsley, it does not have <strong>to</strong> be bl<strong>an</strong>ched.<br />

Lenten version<br />

2 c cress = ⅓ lb ½ c almond milk (p. 7)<br />

½ c beet leaves ¼ c parsley = ½ oz<br />

1 T olive oil pinch salt<br />

Fish-day version<br />

2 ¼ c cress = 6 oz 1 ½ oz brick cheese<br />

1 ½ c beet leaves [3 sprigs parsley]<br />

2 T butter [⅛ t salt]<br />

Meat-day version<br />

2 ¼ c cress = 6 oz ½ c meat s<strong>to</strong>ck<br />

1 ½ c (2 oz) beet leaves [3 sprigs parsley]<br />

2 T lard <strong>an</strong>d/or butter [⅛ t salt]<br />

Chop the cress <strong>an</strong>d beet leaves. Dump<br />

them in<strong>to</strong> boiling water, let the water come<br />

back <strong>to</strong> a boil, then drain them (about 2<br />

minutes <strong>to</strong>tal in water). Heat oil or lard or<br />

butter in a skillet, add drained greens (<strong>an</strong>d<br />

chopped parsley if you are using parsley). Stir<br />

fry for about 3 minutes. For Lenten version,<br />

add almond milk, let boil with greens about a<br />

minute. For fish-day version, add cheese,<br />

chopped up, <strong>an</strong>d stir until cheese is melted<br />

in<strong>to</strong> the greens. For meat-day version, add<br />

meat s<strong>to</strong>ck <strong>an</strong>d cook down 2-3 minutes. Add<br />

salt, serve.<br />

Notes: Measure greens pressed down in the<br />

measuring cup. Use a mild cheese such as<br />

brick cheese. Substitute spinach for beet<br />

leaves if necessary; the Menagier regards<br />

spinach as a kind of beet leaf. We have tried<br />

several ratios of cress <strong>to</strong> beet leaves; all seem<br />

<strong>to</strong> work reasonably well.<br />

Lenten Foyles<br />

Ordin<strong>an</strong>ce of Potage p. 38 (no. 9)<br />

Take the same m<strong>an</strong>er of herbes as thu dost <strong>to</strong><br />

jowtys, <strong>an</strong>d onyons clene paryd. Perboyle hem;<br />

presse out the watyr. Do hem yn a potte. Frye<br />

reysons in clere oyle that have be fryed yn before,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d do ther<strong>to</strong> with a perty of the oyle, <strong>an</strong>d boyle<br />

hit up with the mylke of almondys; <strong>an</strong>d put<br />

ther<strong>to</strong> sugure & salte.<br />

Note: “jowtys” is <strong>an</strong>other recipe for<br />

cooked greens; the one in this cookbook calls<br />

for “kawlys [cabbage-type vegetables] &<br />

percellye <strong>an</strong>d othir good herbes.”

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